Canada Slim and the Last Battle

Eskisehir, Switzerland, Sunday 19 September 2021

As the dates below will show, this blog (The Chronicles of Canada Slim) (one of two) has suffered from neglect.

I offer only one explanation:

I have been….distracted.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

The purpose of The Chronicles of Canada Slim is to capture in writing my adventures prior to the calendar year.

Generally, the Chronicles tells the tales of travels in Alsace, Italy, Lanzarote, London, Porto, Serbia and Switzerland.

Flag of Alsace
Above: Flag of Alsace

Flag of Italy
Above: Flag of Italy

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Above: Lanzarote (red) of the Spanish Canary Islands

Above: London, England

Flag of Porto
Above: Flag of Porto, Portugal

Flag of Serbia
Above: Flag of Serbia

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

But much has been happening since the finale of my Zwingli Way Walk (recorded here): an accident which broke both my arms, work commitments, a visit to Canada, the Corona virus, and the decision to work here in Turkey.

Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis. Ein Wander- und  Lesebuch: Amazon.co.uk: Steiner, Marcel, Steiner, Yvonne: 9783858827739:  Books

Please see Canada Slim and…..

  • the City of Spirits (3 January 2016)
  • the Push for Reformation (5 January 2016)
  • the Genius of Glarus (14 August 2016)
  • the Road to Reformation (12 November 2017)
  • the Wild Child of Toggenburg (20 November 2017)
  • the Thundering Hollows (27 November 2017)
  • the Basel Butterfly Effect (3 December 2017)
  • the Vienna Waltz (9 December 2017)
  • the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul (18 December 2017)
  • the Last Walk of Robert Walser (25 December 2017)
  • the Monks of the Dark Forest (8 January 2018)
  • the Privileged Place (26 January 2018)
  • the Lakeside Pilgrimage (24 April 2018)
  • the Battlefield Brotherhood (8 July 2018)
  • the Family of Mann (12 August 2018)
  • the Anachronic Man (8 October 2018)
  • the Chocolate Factory of Unhappiness (30 January 2019)
  • the Third Man (26 June 2019)
  • the Humanitarian Adventure (10 December 2019)
  • the Succulent Collection (14 November 2020)
  • the Zürich Zealots (19 November 2020)

In defense of writing with pen and paper - The Writer

I have tried to contribute regularly to my other blog Building Everest, which tries to relate events of this calendar year along with ongoing accounts of Swiss Miss‘s world wanderings and recollections of my 2020 travels in Canada just prior to Covid-19’s impact being felt globally.

As well, other writing projects have also suffered, but as long as I breathe I will still believe that these too will eventually be accomplished.

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Above: Mount Everest

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Thursday 3 December 2020

All things end.

One day these fingers will stop typing and my mind will go silent.

One day one breath will be my last.

Death is the one commonality we all share, regardless of whether pauper or prince, peasant or president, saint or sinner.

And it is accepting this inevitability that all of us must come to grips with, in our own way, in our own time.

Save for the suicidal or the sick, few of us wake up in the morning and think to ourselves:

Perhaps today is a good day to die.

Perhaps an exception to this rule of the suicidal or the painfully sick are the lives of those in risky professions, such as health care, the police force, the military.

Above: St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Switzerland

As death is part of, and the end of, life, the question we all ask and the answer we all fear is what, if anything, follows death.

The afterlife (also referred to as life after death or the world to come) is an existence in which the essential part of an individual’s identity or their stream of consciousness continues to live after the death of their physical body.

According to various ideas about the afterlife, the essential aspect of the individual that lives on after death may be some partial element, or the entire soul or spirit, of an individual, which carries with it and may confer personal identity or, on the contrary nirvana.

Belief in an afterlife is in contrast to the belief in oblivion after death.

In some views, this continued existence takes place in a spiritual realm, and in other popular views, the individual may be reborn into this world and begin the life cycle over again, likely with no memory of what they have done in the past. In this latter view, such rebirths and deaths may take place over and over again continuously until the individual gains entry to a spiritual realm or otherworld.

Major views on the afterlife derive from religion, esotericism and metaphysics.

Some belief systems, such as those in the Abrahamic tradition, hold that the dead go to a specific plane of existence after death, as determined by God, or other divine judgment, based on their actions or beliefs during life.

In contrast, in systems of reincarnation, such as those in the Indian religions, the nature of the continued existence is determined directly by the actions of the individual in the ended life.

Above: Danube cemetery, Cernavoda, Romania

The Abrahamic religions, also collectively referred to as the world of Abrahamism, are a group of religions that claim descent from the worship of the God of Abraham, an ancient Semitic religion of the Bronze Age Israelites and the Ishmaelites, the direct predecessor of various ancient Israelite sects, including the remaining two extant Israelite religions of Judaism and Samaritanism, with all other Abrahamic religions descending from Judaism.

The Abrahamic religions are monotheistic, with the term deriving from the patriarch Abraham (a major figure described in the TorahTanakhBible, and Qu’ran, variously recognized by Jews, Samaritans, Christians, Muslims, and others).

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Above: Portrait of Abraham, by Guercino, Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan, Italy

The three major Abrahamic religions trace their origins to the first two sons of Abraham: for Jews and Christians it is his second son Isaac, and for Muslims his elder son Ishmael.

Above: The Angel Hinders the Offering of Isaac, by Rembrandt, Hermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg, Russia

Abrahamic religions spread globally through Christianity being adopted by the Roman Empire in the 4th century and Islam by the Umayyad Empire from the 7th century.

Today the Abrahamic religions are one of the major divisions in comparative religion (along with Indian, Iranian and East Asian religions).

The major Abrahamic religions in chronological order of founding are Judaism (the source of the other two religions) in the 6th century BCE, Christianity in the 1st century CE, and Islam in the 7th century CE.

Christianity, Islam and Judaism are the Abrahamic religions with the greatest numbers of adherents.

Star of David
Above: The Star of David, symbol of Judaism

Principal symbol of Christianity
Above: The cross of Christ, symbol of Christianity

Above: The word “Allah” in Arabic calligraphy, symbol of Islam

Christians are people who follow or adhere to Christianity, a monotheistic Abrahamic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus Christ.

The words Christ and Christian derive from the Koine Greek title Christós (Χριστός), a translation of the Biblical Hebrew term mashiach (מָשִׁיחַ) (usually rendered as messiah in English).

While there are diverse interpretations of Christianity which sometimes conflict, they are united in believing that Jesus has a unique significance.

The term “Christian” used as an adjective is descriptive of anything associated with Christianity or Christian churches, or in a proverbial sense “all that is noble, and good, and Christlike.”

It does not have a meaning of ‘of Christ’ or ‘related or pertaining to Christ‘.

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Above: Christ the Saviour (Pantokrator), a 6th-century icon, Saint Catherine’s Monastery, Mount Sinai, Egypt

According to a 2011 Pew Research Center survey, there were 2.2 billion Christians around the world in 2010, up from about 600 million in 1910.

Today, about 37% of all Christians live in the Americas, about 26% live in Europe, 24% live in sub-Saharan Africa, about 13% live in Asia and the Pacific, and 1% live in the Middle East and North Africa.

Christians make up the majority of the population in 158 countries and territories.

280 million Christians live as a minority.

About half of all Christians worldwide are Catholic, while more than a third are Protestant (37%).

Orthodox communions comprise 12% of the world’s Christians. 

Other Christian groups make up the remainder.

By 2050, the Christian population is expected to exceed 3 billion. 

Pew Research Center.svg

According to a 2012 Pew Research Center survey, Christianity will remain the world’s largest religion in 2050, if current trends continue.

Christians are the one of the most persecuted religious groups in the world, especially in the Middle East, North Africa, East Asia, and South Asia.

Christianity is an Abrahamic monotheistic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus of Nazareth.

It is the world’s largest religion, with about 2.4 billion followers.

Its adherents, known as Christians, make up a majority of the population in 157 countries and territories, and believe that Jesus is the Christ, whose coming as the Messiah was prophesied in the Hebrew Bible, called the Old Testament in Christianity, and chronicled in the New Testament.

Christianity remains culturally diverse in its Western and Eastern branches, as well as in its doctrines concerning justification and the nature of salvation, ecclesiology, ordination and Christology.

The creeds of various Christian denominations generally hold in common Jesus as the Son of God who ministered, suffered and died on a cross, but rose from the dead for the salvation of mankind, referred to as the Gospel, meaning the “good news“.

Describing Jesus’ life and teachings are the four canonical gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, with the Old Testament as the Gospel‘s respected background.

Jesus sits atop a mount, preaching to a crowd
Above: Jesus’ Sermon on the Mount, by Carl Bloch (1877)

Christianity began as a Judaic sect in the 1st century in the Roman province of Judea.

Jesus’ apostles and their followers spread around the Levant, Europe, Anatolia, Mesopotamia, Transcaucasia, Egypt and Ethiopia, despite initial persecution.

Above: The eastern Mediterranean region in the time of Paul the Apostle (5 – 64 CE)

It soon attracted Gentile (non-Jewish) God-fearers, which led to a departure from Jewish customs, and, after the Fall of Jerusalem (70 CE), which ended the Temple-based Judaism, Christianity slowly separated from Judaism.

Above: Siege and destruction of Jerusalem, by David Roberts (1850)

Emperor Constantine the Great (272 – 337) decriminalized Christianity in the Roman Empire by the Edict of Milan (313), later convening the Council of Nicaea (325) where early Christianity was consolidated into what would become the state church of the Roman Empire (380).

Head statue
Above: Bust of Constantine, Capitoline Museum, Rome

The early history of Christianity’s united church before major schisms is sometimes referred to as the “Great Church” (though divergent sects existed at the same time, including Gnostics and Jewish Christians).

The Church of the East split after the Council of Ephesus (431) and Oriental Orthodoxy split after the Council of Chalcedon (451) over differences in Christology, while the Eastern Orthodox Church and the Catholic Church separated in the East-West Schism (1054), especially over the authority of the Bishop of Rome. 

Protestantism split in numerous denominations from the Catholic Church in the Reformation era (16th century) over theological and ecclesiological disputes, most predominantly on the issue of justification and the primacy of the Bishop of Rome.

Christianity played a prominent role in the development of Western civilization, particularly in Europe from late antiquity and the Middle Ages.

Following the Age of Discovery (15th – 17th century), Christianity was spread into the Americas, Oceania, sub-Saharan Africa, and the rest of the world via missionary work.

Above: Various depictions of Jesus

The four largest branches of Christianity are the Catholic Church (1.3 billion / 50.1%), Protestantism (920 million / 36.7%), the Eastern Orthodox Church (230 million), and the Oriental Orthodox churches (62 million) (Orthodox churches combined at 11.9%), though thousands of smaller church communities exist despite efforts toward unity (ecumenism).

Despite a decline in adherence in the West, Christianity remains the dominant religion in the region, with about 70% of the population identifying as Christian. 

Christianity is growing in Africa and Asia, the world’s most populous continents.

The Size and Distribution of the World's Christian Population | Pew  Research Center

Protestantism is a form of Christianity that originated with the 16th-century Reformation, a movement against what its followers perceived to be errors in the Catholic Church.

Protestants originating in the Reformation reject the Roman Catholic doctrine of papal supremacy, but disagree among themselves regarding the number of sacraments, the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist, and matters of ecclesiastical polity and apostolic succession.

They emphasize:

  • the priesthood of all believers 
  • justification by faith (sola fide) rather than by good works
  • the teaching that salvation comes by divine grace or “unmerited favour” only, not as something merited (sola gratia)
  • affirm the Bible as being the sole highest authority (sola scriptura / “scripture alone“) or primary authority (prima scriptura / “scripture first“) for Christian doctrine, rather than being on parity with sacred tradition.

The five solae of Lutheran and Reformed Christianity summarize basic theological differences in opposition to the Catholic Church.

Protestantism began in Germany in 1517, when Martin Luther published his Ninety-five Theses as a reaction against abuses in the sale of indulgences by the Catholic Church, which purported to offer the remission of the temporal punishment of sins to their purchasers.

Above: Door displaying the Ninety-five Theses, All Saints’ Church, Wittenberg, Germany

The term, however, derives from the letter of protestation from German Lutheran princes in March 1529 against an edict of the Diet of Speyer condemning the teachings of Martin Luther as heretical.

Lucas Cranach d.Ä. - Martin Luther, 1528 (Veste Coburg).jpg
Above: German reformer Martin Luther (1483 – 1546)

Although there were earlier breaks and attempts to reform the Catholic Church — notably by Peter Waldo, John Wycliffe and Jan Hus — only Luther succeeded in sparking a wider, lasting and modern movement.

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Above: Statue of French reformer Pierre Vaudès (aka Peter Waldo) (1140 – 1205), Worms, Germany

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Above: English reformer John Wycliffe (1328 – 1384)

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Above: Portrait of Jan Hus (aka John Hus) (1372 – 1415)

In the 16th century, Lutheranism spread from Germany into Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Latvia, Estonia and Iceland.

Above: Lutheranism in the world, 2013 – The darker the region, the more Lutherans therein.

Calvinist churches spread in Germany, Hungary, the Netherlands, Scotland, Switzerland and France by Protestant Reformers, such as John Calvin, Huldrych Zwingli and John Knox.

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Above: French reformer Jehan Cauvin (aka John Calvin) (1509 – 1564)

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Above: Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

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Above: Scottish reformer John Knox (1514 – 1572)

The political separation of the Church of England from the Pope under King Henry VIII began Anglicanism, bringing England and Wales into this broad Reformation movement.

Full-length portrait of King Henry VIII
Above: English King Henry VIII (1491 – 1547)

Today, Protestantism constitutes the second-largest form of Christianity (after Catholicism), with a total of 800 million to 1 billion adherents worldwide or about 37% of all Christians. 

Protestants have developed their own culture, with major contributions in education, the humanities and sciences, the political and social order, the economy and the arts and many other fields.

Protestantism is diverse, being more divided theologically and ecclesiastically than the Catholic Church, the Eastern Orthodox Church or Oriental Orthodoxy.

Without structural unity or central human authority, Protestants developed the concept of an invisible church, in contrast to the Catholic, the Eastern Orthodox Church, the Oriental Orthodox Churches, the Assyrian Church of the East and the Ancient Church of the East, which all understand themselves as the one and only original church — the “one true church” — founded by Jesus Christ.

Some denominations do have a worldwide scope and distribution of membership, while others are confined to a single country.

A majority of Protestants are members of a handful of Protestant denominational families: 

  • Adventists
  • Anabaptists
  • Anglicans / Episcopalians 
  • Baptists  
  • Calvinist / Reformed
  • Lutherans
  • Methodists
  • Pentecostals  

Charismatic, Evangelical, Independent and other churches are on the rise and constitute a significant part of Protestantism.

Above: Key figures of the Protestant Reformation: Martin Luther and John Calvin depicted on a church pulpit, Mikolow, Poland. These reformers emphasized preaching and made it a centerpiece of worship.

As regular followers of my blogs know, I have, for quite some time, been writing about my following in the footsteps of Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli.

By “following in the footsteps” I do not refer to following the example of Zwingli’s life as a model for my own.

But rather I mean that I have been tracing on foot the life path of Zwingli by walking from his place of birth in Wildhaus in the Toggenburg region to his final resting place in Kappel am Albis – a five-hour / 19 km walk south of Uetliberg overlooking Zürich.

SACHBUCH: Wandern auf Zwinglis Spuren
Above: Marcel and Yvonne Steiner

Huldrych Zwingli or Ulrich Zwingli (1484 – 1531) was a leader of the Reformation in Switzerland, born during a time of emerging Swiss patriotism and increasing criticism of the Swiss mercenary system.

Above: Birthplace of Huldrych Zwingli, Wildhaus, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

He attended the University of Vienna and the University of Basel, a scholarly center of Renaissance humanism.

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Above: Seal of the University of Vienna (Austria)

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Above: Logo of the University of Basel (Switzerland)

He continued his studies while he served as a pastor in Glarus and later in Einsiedeln, where he was influenced by the writings of Erasmus.

Above: Glarus Cathedral, Glarus, Switzerland

Above: Einsiedeln Abbey, Einsiedeln, Switzerland

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Above: Dutch reformer Desiderius Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466 – 1536)

In 1519, Zwingli became the Leutpriester (people’s priest) of the Grossmünster in Zürich where he began to preach ideas on reform of the Catholic Church.

In his first public controversy in 1522, he attacked the custom of fasting during Lent.

In his publications, he noted corruption in the ecclesiastical hierarchy, promoted clerical marriage, and attacked the use of images in places of worship.

Among his most notable contributions to the Reformation was his expository preaching, starting in 1519, through the Gospel of Matthew, before eventually using biblical exegesis to go through the entire New Testament, a radical departure from the Catholic mass.

In 1525, he introduced a new communion liturgy to replace the Mass.

He also clashed with the Anabaptists, which resulted in their persecution.

Historians have debated whether or not he turned Zürich into a theocracy.

Above: Grossmünster (large cathedral), Zürich, Switzerland

The Reformation spread to other parts of the Swiss Confederation, but several cantons resisted, preferring to remain Catholic.

Zwingli formed an alliance of Reformed cantons which divided the Confederation along religious lines.

In 1529, a war was averted at the last moment between the two sides.

Above: Religious map of Switzerland, 1536

Meanwhile, Zwingli’s ideas came to the attention of Martin Luther and other reformers.

They met at the Marburg Colloquy and agreed on many points of doctrine, but they could not reach an accord on the doctrine of the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist.

Above: Woodcut illustration of the Marburg Colloquy (1 – 4 October 1529)

In 1531, Zwingli’s alliance applied an unsuccessful food blockade on the Catholic cantons.

The cantons responded with an attack at a moment when Zürich was unprepared….

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Above: Battle of Kappel, 11 October 1531

Zwingli wanted to enforce the Reformed sermon in the entire area of the Swiss Confederation.

He tried to break the resistance of central Switzerland by force of arms.

This was his undoing.

The Reformation in Switzerland was unstoppable.

It prevailed in church and state and gave the authorities more power.

But there were also opponents of the Reformation.

Zwingli and his innovations were sharply criticized, but that didn’t detract from its popularity.

The people flocked to the Grossmünster for its services.

Zwingli commented on theological, ecclesiastical and political questions in the pulpit.

He tried to renew the Church from the inside and to abolish the excesses and abuses with the consent of the Bishop and Pope.

His mission was to lead the entire Swiss Confederation to true Christianity.

He could not accept that the five places involved in the pension system continued to withhold the Reformed sermon from the central Swiss.

Above: Switzerland, 1530

The struggle for the right belief, in his opinion, required courageous action.

Zwingli wrote:

I believe that just as the Church came to life through blood, it can also be renewed through blood, not otherwise.”

The open break with the Pope and the Church became evident on 29 January 1523, when the Zürich Council obliged the pastors to preach the “pure gospel” based on Zwingli’s example.

At Easter 1525, the Evangelical Last Supper formulated by Zwingli was celebrated instead of Mass for the first time.

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Above: Zürich, Switzerland

There were similar developments in other parts of the Swiss Confederation.

Zwingli was in contact with like-minded people.

Well-known exponents of the Reformation in the Swiss Confederation were:

  • Johannes Dörig (1499 – 1526)
  • Walter Klarer (1500 – 1567)
  • Johannes Hess (1486 – 1537)
  • Valentin Tschudi (1499 – 1555)
  • Fridolin Brunner (1498 – 1570)
  • Sebastian Hofmeister (1494 – 1533)

Above: Swiss reformer Sebastian Hofmeister

  • Berchtold Haller (1492 – 1536)

Above: German reformer Berchtold Haller

  • Niklaus Manuel (1484 – 1530)

Above: Swiss reformer Niklaus Manuel

  • Konrad Pellikan (1478 – 1556)

Above: German reformer Konrad Pellikan

  • Wilhelm Reublin (1484 – 1549)
  • Johannes Oekolampad (1482 – 1531)

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Above: German reformer Johannes Oekolampad

  • Johannes Comander (1484 – 1557)
  • Jakob Salzmann (1484 – 1526)
  • Dr. Joachim von Watt (aka Vadian) (1483 – 1551)

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Above: Swiss reformer Joachim Vadian

The disputes about what it meant to be a good Christian led to internal political tensions in the Swiss Confederation.

The 1524 Diet did not lead to an audible solution in dealing that the true gospel should be preached to all confederates.

The Swiss Confederation was weakened.

Flag of Swiss Confederacy
Above: Flag of the Swiss Confederation

The Pope and the French tried to influence.

Johannes Eck (1486 – 1543), who fought on behalf of the Pope, and Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), took part in the 1526 Baden Disputation.

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Above: German counter-reformer Johannes Eck

Eck needed nine places in the Confederation to ostracize and ban Zwingli as Emperor Charles V (1500 – 1558) had done with Luther in 1521.

Portrait of Emperor Charles V seated on a chair
Above: Holy Roman Emperor Charles V

However, the decision was never implemented.

Tensions continued.

Zwingli thought armed conflicts were possible.

He wanted to prevent the Reformed places from being reintegrated into the Catholic Church by military force.

He consulted with Zürich officers and at the beginning of 1526 he drafted a war plan for the attention of the Zürich authorities.

Above: Zwingli preaching, Grossmünster pulpit, Zürich

In February 1528, Bern officially converted to the Reformation.

Zwingli took note of this pleasure and satisfaction.

Aerial view of the Old City
Above: Bern, Switzerland

On Zwingli’s advice, Zürich concluded so-called “Christian castle rights” with the Reformed cities of Bern, Konstanz, St. Gallen, Biel-Bienne, Mühlhausen, Basel and Schaffhausen.

Rheintorturm, a section of the former city wall of Konstanz at Lake Constance
Above: Konstanz, Germany

A view of St. Gallen
Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

Old Town of Biel
Above: Old town, Biel, Switzerland

Divi-Blasii Church seen from Kornmarkt
Above: Mühlhausen, Germany

View from the Rhine
Above: Basel, Switzerland

Schaffhausen in 2012
Above: Schaffhausen, Switzerland

The cities pledged to help each other should they be attacked because of their beliefs.

As a reaction to this, the Catholic towns of Luzern, Uri, Schwyz, Zug and Unterwalden allied themselves with Ferdinand von Habsburg-Austria (1503 – 1564) in the “Christian Association“.

Clockwise from top: Kapellbrücke, Löwendenkmal, Old town, City walls, Traditional frescoed building
Above: Images of Luzern, Switzerland

Flag of Uri
Above: Flag of the Canton of Uri

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Above: Schwyz, Switzerland

View over Lake Zug with the old town of Zug and the Zytturm
Above: Zug, Switzerland

Flag of Unterwalden
Above: Flag of the Canton of Unterwalden

In the early summer of 1529 the situation came to a head:

Both parties committed attacks, the Unterwaldner in the Bernese Oberland, the Zürichers in St. Gallen, and the Schwyzers by executing Reformed pastor Jakob Kaiser (1485 – 1529).

Jakob Kaiser (reformer)

The Zürich government decided to go to war on 4 June 1529.

On 9 June, 4,000 people in armor and guns were standing in Kappel am Albis on the border with the canton of Zug.

Zwingli and several like-minded pasters were there.

Zwingli wanted to ride of his own accord, but the army commanders would have preferred because of the hospitality against Zwingli that he would have stayed at home.

They appointed another pastor to be the field chaplain.

View from the south of Kappel am Albis
Above: Kappel am Albis, Switzerland

The troops of the Reformed towns numbered 30.000 men, the central Swiss had an army of 9,000 men.

In view of the great overwhelming power, the people of Zürich saw themselves marching into Zug and Luzern without much bloodshed, thus enforcing the free preaching of the Gospel and the prohibition of mercenaries and pensions throughout the entire Confederation.

Coat of arms of Zug
Above: Coat of arms of Zug

Coat of arms of Lucerne
Above: Coat of arms of Luzern

But shortly before the attack, the Glarner Landammann Hans Aebli suddenly wanted to parley.

The central Swiss troops were not yet fully armed and one should refrain from a brotherly fight.

So a break was agreed and the Zürich authorities informed of the Glarus request.

Flag of Kanton Glarus
Above: Flag of Canton Glarus

Zwingli wanted to use the numerical superioriry of the Reformers at all costs.

He wrote from the field to the Zürich Council:

Be steadfast and do not fear war.

We do not thirst for someone’s blood.

We are only concerned with one thing:

That the nerve of the oligarchs’ policy must be cut.

If that does not happen, neither the truth of the Gospel nor the servants of the Gospel safe with us.

We do not contemplate the cruel, but the good and patriotic.

We want to save people who otherwise perish from ignorance.

We thirst for freedom to be preserved.

So do not be afraid of our plans.

Flag of Zürich
Above: Flag of Zürich

As a condition for peace he suggested to the Council:

The Gospel should be able to be preached unhindered throughout the Confederation.

No more pensions should be accepted.

Those who brokered pensions in the five towns were to be punished while the Zürich troops were still in Kappel.

The Zürichers were to receive war compensation.

Schwyz had to make amends for the children of Pastor Kaiser of 1,000 guilders.

Zwingli’s admonitions and warnings to the Zürich authorities were not heard.

Flag of Schwyz
Above: Flag of Canton Schwyz

In the meantime, the central Swiss were ready to fight, but the fighting spirit waned on both sides.

The federal spirit gained the upper hand.

In addition, the men suffered from shortages on both sides.

The central Swiss lacked bread.

The Zürichers lacked milk.

A couple of people from central Switzerland put a bucket of milk on the border.

The people of Zürich got the hint:

They brought the chunks of bread for the soup, which went down in history as “Kappel milk soup“.

But the wait and the negotiations continued.

Above: Kappel Milk Soup

Since the assembly of 14 June in Aarau did not bring an agreement, the negotiations were conducted at Zwingli’s suggestion in front of the assembled troops in the vicinity of Kappel.

Aarau old town
Above: Aarau, Switzerland

The ambassadors of the central Switzerland, Zürich and Zwingli expressed themselves.

Zwingli wrote to the Zürich authorities:

For God’s sake, do something brave!

The formulation of a peace agreement progressed resinously and after more than two weeks of negotiations the First Kappeler Landfrieden was finally proclaimed on 26 June 1529:

The Reformed sermon was allowed everywhere and the central Swiss cancelled with the Habsburgs.

This strengthened the “Christian castle rights” of the Reformers who felt themselves to be victorious.

Zwingli was on the one hand satisfied with the bloodless peace.

On the other hand, he did not trust the central Swiss.

Above: Huldrych Zwingli

The wording of the peace treaty left a lot of room for interpretation, which just two months later led to violent disputes at a parliamentary meeting.

In particular, there was a dispute over the sovereignty over belief in the individual areas.

Both sides demanded that the minority bow to the majority.

So it was allowed in Zürich to stick to the old faith and attend Catholic mass.

In central Switzerland, Reformers were not allowed to hold their own church services in communities that remained mostly Catholic.

There was also a quarrel about war compensation.

Instead of the 80,000 guilders demanded by Zürich and Bern, they awarded only 2,500 guilders from both places, which the central Swiss did not want to pay either.

The mutual trust was gone.

The Reformers were suspicious of the central Swiss, despite the contractual ban they were again in contact with the Habsburgs.

Elvis Presley Suspicious Minds PS.jpg

Zwingli and Zürich feared that Emperor Charles V and the Habsburgers could attack the Reformed areas in the Confederation and Germany with the support of central Switzerland.

Flag of the Habsburg Monarchy
Above: Flag of the Habsburg Monarchy

Zwingli wanted to defend the Reformed areas of the Confederation and tried to forge an alliance with Hesse and other Reformed states in Germany, as well as with Venice and Milan.

His attempts were unsuccessful.

Coat of arms of State of Hessen
Above: Coat of arms of the German state of Hesse

A collage of Venice: at the top left is the Piazza San Marco, followed by a view of the city, then the Grand Canal and interior of La Fenice, as well as the island of San Giorgio Maggiore.
Above: Images of Venice, Italy

Clockwise from top: Porta Nuova, Sforza Castle, La Scala, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milano Centrale railway station, Arch of Peace and Milan Cathedral.
Above: Images of Milan (Milano), Italy (Italia)

At the beginning of 1531, Zürich again asked the central Swiss to allow the Reformer sermon.

They felt their autonomy was threatened and rejected the request.

Zwingli urged the Zürich Council to force the people of central Switzerland to make this concession.

Zürich Switzerland-Münsterbrücke-and-Fraumünster-01.jpg
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

They were not convinced by the food boycott either.

At a meeting on 14 June 1531, the two parties – Zürich and Bern on one side, the five central Swiss towns on the other – sat opposite one another.

No agreement could be reached, negotiations were held on 20 June and 11 July with no results.

Zwingli could not stand the hesitation of the people of Zürich and decided on 26 July to leave the city immediately.

The influential lords of the city did not want to allow that to happen.

They literally begged him to stay.

After a period of reflection, Zwingli withdrew his resignation.

Above: Zürich in the time of Zwingli

Since the negotiations between Zürich, Bern and central Switzerland were still going on, Zwingli arranged to meet the Bern representative before the meeting on 11 August and tried to win them over a war against the five central Swiss towns.

Shortly afterwards, Zwingli wrote in a letter:

I am prepared for more than just one disaster.

He felt himself at a loss.

The retirees don’t want to be punished.”

They had too much popular support.

Instead of going to war, Bern advised in September 1531 to lift the supply block against central Switzerland.

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Above: The Bern negotiations, 1531

The people of Zürich were informed of the preparations for war by the central Swiss from various quarters, but they remained inactive.

When, on 9 October 1531, a runner from Luzern demanded the delivery of the federal letters, Zürichers did not expect an attack.

Even after the central Swiss had already mobilized their troops, the people of Zürich still did not call their soldiers to arms.

Only when reports came in on 10 October that the central Swiss were at Baar did the Zürich-based vanguard send an advance guard to the border with Zug.

Rathaus-Baar.jpg
Above: City Hall, Baar, Switzerland

The central Swiss invaded and plundered Freiamt.

Above: Coat of arms of Freiamt, Switzerland

The Grand Council of Zürich now sent its main force to support the vanguard.

Instead of the expected 4,000 men, only 1,000 arrived.

Zwingli rode at their head as field preacher together with the captains.

More troops arrived.

Finally on 11 October 1531, 7,000 central Swiss troops faced 3,500 soldiers in Kappel.

The people of Zürich who hurried up in forced marches were exhausted even before the fight.

When the central Swiss attacked at 4 pm, they fled after a brief resistance.

Zwingli fell in the front ranks.

More than 500 people from Zürich died with him in this second battle of Kappel.

The central Swiss had fewer than a 100 deaths to mourn.

Above: The Battle of Kappel, 11 October 1531

Zwingli did not immediately die, as the Menzinger Jahrezeitenbuch reported:

The central Swiss recognized the wounded man and offered him a confessor.

Zwingli refused.

Then a captain killed him with a halberd.

Above: The murder of Zwingli, by Karl Jauslin

The following day, “martial law was held over the dead body of this dishonourable God and the unfaithful, perjured, vow-breaking arch heretics and seducers of the people“.

As a result, Zwingli was “first cut off as a traitor to the entire Confederation by the Luzern executioner and then burned to ashes as an arch heretic“.

As a resulr, Zwingli was “first cut off as a traitor to the entire Confederation by the Luzern executioner and then burned to ashes as an arch heretic“.

Above: Zwingli memorial, Kappel am Albis, Switzerland

Zwingli’s death triggered a fall in friends and followers in Zürich and raised hope among his opponents, but the majority of the population wanted to hold on to the Reformation.

As a result of Zwingli’s interference in urban and federal politics, a clear separation of religions and politics was sought.

Pastors were instructed not to interfere in politics, but to concentrate on the preaching of God’s word and to work for peace and tranquility.

Anyone who did not comply was dismissed by the Zürich Council.

The Council appointed Heinrich Bullinger (1504 – 1575) as the new pastor at the Grossmünster on 9 December 1531.

In doing so, he fulfilled Zwingli’s wish:

He had recommended Bullinger as his successor if he did not return from Kappel.

Heinrich Bullinger.jpg
Above: Heinrich Bullinger

The Second Kappel War was not ended by Zwingli’s death.

More defeats for the people of Zürich and Bern followed on the battlefield.

After the defeat, the forces of Zürich regrouped and attempted to occupy the Zugerberg, and some of them camped on the Gubel hill near Menzingen.

Landschaft Zugerberg Rigi Alpen Zug.jpg
Above: Zug Mountain (Zugerberg)

Menzingen-ZG.jpg
Above: Menzingen today

Following the defeat at Kappel, Bern and other Reformed Cantons marched to rescue Zürich.

Between 15 and 21 October, a large Reformed army marched up the Reuss Valley to outside of Baar.

Kapellbrucke in Lucerne.jpg
Above: Reuss River, Luzern, Switzerland

View of Baar
Above: Baar today

At the same time, the Catholic army was now encamped on the slopes of the Zugerberg.

Zugerberg and the city of Zug
Above: Zugerberg and the city of Zug

The combined Zürich-Bern army attempted to send 5,000 men over Sihlbrugg and Menzingen to encircle the army on the Zugerberg.

Above: Babenwaag bridge in Sihlbrugg

However, the Reformed army marched slowly due to poor discipline and looting.

By the night of 23–24 October, they had only reached Gubel at Menzingen.

Menzingen coat of arms
Above: Coat of arms of Menzingen

That night they were attacked by a small Catholic force from Aegeri and driven off.

Oberaegeri-ZG.jpg
Above: Oberaegeri (formerly Aegeri), Switzerland

About 600 Protestant soldiers died in the attack and the panicked retreat that followed.

This defeat destroyed much of the combined Zürich – Bern army and, faced with increasing desertion, it had to retreat on 3 November back down the Reuss to Bremgarten.

Bremgarten AG Reuss.jpg
Above: Bremgarten, Switzerland

The retreat left much of Lake Zürich (Zürichsee) and Zürich itself unprotected.

Zürich now pushed for a rapid peace settlement.

Karte Zürichsee.png
Above: Map of Lake Zürich

On 20 November 1531, the Second Treaty of Kappel was concluded on the mediation of the federal states that had remained neutral.

It was stipulated that each canton could determine its own denomination.

The Abbey of St. Gallen was taken from Zürich and restored.

Convent of St Gall.jpg
Above: Abbey of St. Gall, St. Gallen, Switzerland

The “Christian castle law” of the Reformed cantons repeatedly led to tensions and disputes.

After a long domination of the Catholic towns, the Reformed towns of Bern and Zürich gained the upper hand in the Swiss Confederation in 1712 in the Second Villmerger War (or Toggenburg War) (12 April – 11 August 1712).

Karte Zweiter Villmergerkrieg 1712.png
Above: (green) Protestant cantons / (yellow) Catholic cantons / (grey) neutral cantons, 1712

Until the French Revolution, there were always new denominational disputes.

The Helvetic Republic, with borders according to the first Helvetic constitution of 12 April 1798
Above: The Helvetic Republic (1798 – 1803)

They also played a role in the Sonderbund War (3 – 29 November 1847), which led to the establishment of the Swiss federal state in 1848.

Sonderbund War Map English.png
Above: Switzerland, 1847

Zürich to Kappel am Albis, Switzerland, Friday 13 March 2018

I am not a religious man, though I do respect the morality and traditions that religion tries to maintain.

I am considered by statistics as a man without religion, though I do consider myself a fairly moral man who was raised in the tenets of Christianity – my foster mother was a non-practising Baptist, my foster father was a non-practising Catholic, my foster sister and her family are fundamentalist Christians – I do not adhere to the notion that there is only one faith to follow to salvation – if there is indeed salvation at all.

My following in the footsteps of Huldrych Zwingli was far less a pilgrimage of faith as it was a pedestrian project of walking a path divided into many stages and accomplished in separate stages when time and money permitted.

I was not searching for God or holy illumination but rather I simply wished to get a sense of a historical period before my own and I felt that there was no better way to get a sense of Zwingli than to march along with his memory.

I have always preferred walking to any other method of transportation as the slowest of journeys generates the deepest experiences.

I have always held that the moment one puts wheels beneath them the journey loses its significance and the destination becomes the primary goal.

I wanted to imagine what the places I saw now appeared back then.

How did it come to this?

What did the people of yesterday think?

How did they feel?

How different were they from us?

How similar to us were they?

Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis. Ein Wander- und  Lesebuch: Amazon.co.uk: Steiner, Marcel, Steiner, Yvonne: 9783858827739:  Books

The Steiner book had led me in eight stages since 11 October 2017 from Wildhaus to Wollishofen in downtown Zürich.

Wildhaus 2009.jpg
Above: Wildhaus

Above: Wollishofen with the Uetliberg in the background

Today would be the final march that would take me from Zürich to Uetliberg, Hotel Uto Kulm, Balderen, Felsenegg, Buchenegg, Näfenhüser, Albispass, the Albis Hochwacht, Schnabellücken and Kappel am Albis.

Above: Limmat River, Zürich

Uetliberg - Wollishofen - Zürichhorn 2012-09-27 16-15-12.JPG
Above: Uetliberg, seen from Lake Zürich

Above: Hotel Uto Kulm, Uetliberg

File:Albis - Balderen 2010-08-17 13-43-40.JPG - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Balderen house

The Felsenegg on the Albisgrat
Above: Felsenegg

In front Restaurant Chusperhüsli (former location; nowadays opposite Restaurant Buchenegg), in the back Restaurant Buchenegg
Above: Restaurant Chusperhüsli, Buchenegg

File:Näfenhäuser 2187.jpg - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Näfenhüser

Albispass, in front Rüschlikon
Above: Rüschlikon and Albispass

Hike Albispasshöhe | PostBus
Above: Albis Hochwacht (lookout)

File:Südliche Schnabellücke 02.JPG - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Schnabellücken

Above: Kappel Monastery, Kappel am Albis

From the Haus zur Sul, at Kirchgasse 22, Zwingli’s official residence from 1522 to 1525, the last three years of his life, I walk from there to the Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Grand Central Station), to catch the Uetliberg train and the official start of this last leg of the Steiner trail.

Haus zur Sul - Open House Zürich
Above: Haus zur Sul, Zürich

Zuerich Hauptbahnhof-2.jpg
Above: Zürich Hauptbahnhof

The Uetliberg railway line (Uetlibergbahn) is a passenger railway line which runs from the central station in Zürich through the city’s western outskirts to the summit of the Uetliberg.

The route serves as line S10 of the Zürich S-Bahn (street railway/trams) with the Zürcher Verkehrsverband (Zürich Transport Commission)’s (ZVV) standards zonal fares applying.

ZVV logo on the door of an SBB CFF FFS RABe 514.

The line was opened in 1875 and electrified in 1923.

Vintage poster – Uetliberg-Bahn, Zürich, Sommer-Fahrplan 1897 – Galerie 1 2  3

In 1990 it was extended to its current terminus at Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Central Station).

Zurich HB - a brief station guide for train travellers
Above: Zürich Hauptbahnhof

Today it is owned by the Sihltal Zürich Uetliberg Bahn, a company that also owns the Sihltal line and operates other transport services.

The line has a maximum gradient of 7.9% and is the steepest standard gauge adhesion railway in Europe.

It carries both leisure and local commuter traffic.

Above: Sihltal Zürich Uetliberg Bahn

The Uetliberg line shares a common terminus with the Sihltal line, utilising a dedicated underground island platform (tracks 21 and 22) at Zürich Hauptbahnhof.

There is no rail connection to the rest of the station, but the platform is served by the same complex of pedestrian subways and subterranean shopping malls that link the station’s other platforms.

From the Hauptbahnhof to Zürich Giesshübel station the two lines share a common twin-track line, initially in tunnel, partly running along and under the Sihl River.

GiesshuebelWiedikonII.jpg
Above: Giesshübel Station

OberhalbSihlbrugg.jpg
Above: Sihl River near Sihlbrugg

The current Selnau station is located in this under-river tunnel section.

Above: Selnau Station

Although the two lines diverge at Giesshübel station, and the depot for Uetliberg trains is located there, Uetliberg line trains do not stop.

Just beyond Giesshübel, the line serves Zürich Binz station.

Bahnhof Zürich Binz 2016-09-30 p3.jpg
Above: Binz Station

The line then commences a long, steep but relatively straight climb through the Zurich suburbs, serving the stations of Zürich Friesenberg, Zürich Schweighof and Zürich Triemli.

VBZ LighTram Nr 79 SZU-Querung Friesenberg.jpg
Above: Friesenberg Station

Zurich Schweighof 2011 305.jpg
Above: Schweighof Station

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Above: Triemli Station

This section of line is single track, with a double track section between Binz and Friesenberg.

Triemli station is adjacent to the Triemli Hospital , one of Zürich’s main hospitals, and is the terminus for some trains on the line.

Triemli spital.jpg
Above: Triemli Hospital

The station has two tracks and two platforms.

Beyond Triemli the line enters a more wooded and hilly environment, and executes a broad U-shaped route to the summit of Uetliberg, which is 5.9 km (3.7 mi) from Triemli by rail, but only 1.5 km (0.93 mi) away in a direct line.

Above: Uetliberg, seen from Felsenegg

This section of line serves Uitikon Waldegg and Ringlikon stations, and is single track, with double track sections between Triemli and Uitikon Waldegg, and at Ringlikon.

Uitikon-Waldegg - Bahnhof 620m – Tourenberichte und Fotos [hikr.org]
Above: Waldegg Station

Above: Ringlikon Station

Uetliberg station lies some 650 m (2,130 ft) from, and 56 m (184 ft) below, the summit of the Uetiberg.

The station has two terminal tracks, and a substantial station building, including a restaurant.

Above: Uetliberg Station

A refuge castle existed on the Uetliberg as early as the Bronze Age or an oppidum in Celtic times.

Various archaeological finds such as ramparts and the Prince’s grave mound Sonnenbühl can still be visited today. 

From 1644 it was the location of a high watch.

Zürich - Historische Orte I: dem Grab der Üetliberg-Fürstin einen Besuch  abstatten
Above: Sonnenbühl

The Uetliberg and the nearby Albiskamm were the location of six castles in the Middle Ages, of which only remnants are left today: Uetliburg, Sellenbüren, Frisenberg, Baldern, Schnabelburg and Manegg.

The destruction of the Üetliburg in 1268 on an engraving by David Herrliberger (1714)
Above: Uetliberg Castle

Furnace güpf
Above: Sellenbüren Castle ruins

Above: Old mill, Friesenberg Castle

Location of the castle
Above: Original location of Baldern Castle

Schnabelburg ruins (May 2007)
Above: Schnabelburg Castle ruins

ZÜRICH SCHLOSS MANEGG, AQUATINTA 1850 | Kaufen auf Ricardo
Above: Manegg Castle

Uotelenburg was first mentioned in a document in 1210. 

In 1267 the people of Zürich allegedly destroyed the Uetliburg under Rudolf von Habsburg (1218 – 1291) in the course of the Regensberg feud (1268 – 1269), but this is not considered historically certain. 

Above: Grave slab of Rudolf von Habsburg, Speyer Cathedral, Germany

Twice (perhaps) Zwingli ascended Uetliberg in 1531 en route to battle.

That a man of the church sought bloodshed leaves me disappointed, but lives had already been lost in Zürich in the name of his religious reforms.

Above: Zwingli Monument, Wasserkirche, Zürich

In 1750 the poet Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock (1724 – 1803) climbed the mountain.

He too would cause others to doubt his religious convictions.

Above: Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock

Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock grew up as the eldest of 17 children in a pietistic family. 

His father, Gottlieb Heinrich, the son of a lawyer, was a commissioner and had leased the estate of Friedeburg, so that Friedrich Gottlieb spent his childhood here from 1732 until the lease was given up in 1736. 

Above: Klopstock birthplace, Quedlinburg, Germany

His mother Anna Maria had the Bad Langensalza council chamberlain and merchant Johann Christoph Schmidt (1659 – 1711) as a father.

Above: Anna Maria Klopstock (née Schmidt)

After attending the Quedlinburg grammar school, Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock came to the Fürstenschule in Schulpforte at the age of 15 , where he received a thorough humanistic education. 

Above: Pforta State School (Fürstenschule), Schulpforte, Germany

Above: Klopstock Memorial Stone, Pforta School

Klopstock read the Greek and Latin classics: Homer, Pindar, Virgil and Horace. 

Above: Bust of Homer, Glyptothek, Munich, Germany

Above: Replica of Pindar (522 – 446 BCE), Capitoline Museum, Rome, Italy

Above: Representation of Virgil (70 – 19 BCE), Monnus Mosaic, Trier, Germany

Here he also made his first own poetic attempts and wrote a first plan for the Messiah, a religious epic.

In 1745 he began studying Protestant theology in Jena, where he also wrote the first three chants of the Messiah, which he initially laid out in prose. 

After moving to Leipzig, the work was reworked in hexameters the following year. 

The appearance of the first parts in the articles in Bremen in 1748 caused a sensation and became the model for the Messiad literature of its era. 

In Leipzig, Klopstock also created the first odes. 

Above: Messiah, Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock

After completing his theology studies, he took a private tutor in Langensalza (according to the custom of all theology candidates). 

During the two years of his stay in Bad Langensalza, Klopstock experienced the passionate love for the girl Maria-Sophia Schmidt, the intoxication of hope, the despair of disappointment, and finally the elegy of renunciation. 

Above: Old quarter, Bad Langensalza, Germany

This led to, during these two years, his composing the most beautiful of his earlier odes for the unapproachable lover.

The publication of the odes sparked a storm of enthusiasm among opponents of the “reasonable” poetics of Johann Christoph Gottsched, which had prevailed up until then. 

Above: German writer, “the literary pope“, Johann Christoph Gottsched (1700 – 1776)

It was the hour of birth of pure poetry.

Klopstock (Füßli).jpg
Above: Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock

Contacts were made with Johann Jakob Bodmer (1698 – 1783), who invited Klopstock to Zürich in 1750.

Above: Swiss philologist Johann Jakob Bodmer (1698 – 1783)

Klostock gladly accepted the invitation from Bodmer, the Swiss translator of John Milton’s Paradise Lost, where Klopstock was initially treated with every kindness and respect and rapidly recovered his spirits.

Above: English writer John Milton (1608 – 1674)

Bodmer, however, was disappointed to find in the young poet of the Messiah a man of strong worldly interests, and a coolness sprang up between the two men.

After eight months, Klopstock went at the invitation of King Frederick V of Denmark (1723 – 1766). 

With Friedrich’s support he was able to complete his work. 

This granted him a life pension of 400 (later 800) thalers a year. 

He spent three years of his life in Denmark.

Above: King Frederick V of Denmark and Norway (1723 – 1766)

On 10 June 1754, Klopstock married Margreta (Meta) Moller (1728 – 1758), whom he met in Hamburg in 1751 while traveling to Copenhagen. 

She died of a stillbirth on 28 November 1758. 

For thirty years Klopstock could not forget her and sang about her in his elegies. 

Above: Margareta “Meta” Klopstock (née Moller) (1728 – 1758)

It was not until old age (1791) that he married Johanna Elisabeth Dimpfel von Winthem (1747-1821), a niece of Meta Moller.

Above: Johanna Elisabeth von Winthem

From 1759 to 1762 Klopstock lived in Quedlinburg, Braunschweig and Halberstadt, then travelled to Copenhagen, where he stayed until 1771 and exerted a great influence on the cultural life in Denmark. 

Roofs of Quedlinburg Germany.jpg
Above: Quedlinburg, Germany

Above: Braunschweig, Germany

Above: Halberstadt Cathedral, Halberstadt, Germany

Copenhagen, collage. From above: Christiansborg, Marble Church, Tivoli and Rådhuspladsen
Above: Images of Copenhagen, Denmark

In addition to the Messiah, which finally appeared in full in 1773, he wrote dramas, including Hermanns Schlacht (Herman’s Battle) (1769). 

He then returned to Hamburg. 

Above: St. Michaelis Church, Hamburg, Germany

In 1776, he moved temporarily to Karlsruhe at the invitation of Margrave Karl Friedrich von Baden (1728 – 1811). 

Above: The statue of Karl Friedrich von Baden, Karlsruhe Castle, Karlsruhe, Germany

Above: Karl Friedrich von Baden

After his death on 14 March 1803 at the age of 78, Klopstock was buried on 22 March 1803 with great public sympathy in the church cemetery in Ottensen.

Above: Klopstock Grave, Ottensen, Hamburg, Germany

Above: Klopstock’s grave under the linden tree, Ottensen bei Altona

In Quedlinburg, the Klopstockhaus provides information about the poet. 

Above: Klopstockhaus, Quedlinburg, Germany

Above: Klopstock Memorial, Brühl Park, Quedlinburg, Germany

In 1831, a memorial was inaugurated in the local park in Brühl.

Bruehl
Above: Brühl Park, south of Quedlinburg

As a father of the German nation-state idea, Klopstock was a proponent of the French Revolution, which he described in the 1789 poem Know Yourself as the “noblest deed of the century”. 

Klopstock also called on the Germans for a revolution. 

In 1792, the French National Assembly accepted him as an honorary citizen.

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Later, however, he castigated the excesses of the revolution in the 1793 poem The Jacobins.

Here he criticized the Jacobin regime, which had emerged from the French Revolution, as a snake that winds through all of France.

Above: Jacobin hat, Army History Museum, Vienna, Austria

Above: Jacobin Club session, January 1792

Klopstock’s enlightened utopia The German Republic of Scholars (1774) is a concept that installs an educated elite in power for the princely rule, which is regarded as incapable of governing. 

The republic is to be ruled by “aldermen“, “guilds” and “the people“, whereby the former – as the most learned – should have the greatest powers, and guilds and people accordingly less. 

The “rabble”, on the other hand, would only get a “shouter” in the state parliament, because Klopstock did not trust the people to have popular sovereignty. 

Education is the highest good in this republic and qualifies its bearer for higher offices. 

This republic would do extremely well in accordance with the learned approach and would be pacifistic too:

Klopstock estimates sniffing, scornful laughter and frowning as punishments between the scholars. 

This made special demands on the executors:

“Whoever wants to become one of them must have two main characteristics, namely a great skill in being very expressive, and then a very special larval face, whereby the size and shape of the nose come into consideration. 

In addition to this, the scornful laugher must have a very strong and at the same time rough voice. 

It is customary to release Schreyer from being expelled from the country and to raise him to a sneer if his nose has the necessary properties for this task.” 

Klopstocks deutsche Gelehrtenrepublik

Klopstock’s conception of Heaven, shaped by the scientific achievements of NIcolaus Copernicus (1473 – 1543) and Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630), is not that of an ancient sky at rest in itself, whose stars are gods and heroes. 

Its celestial sphere is rather a world harmony, a rhythm and symmetry of the spheres. 

Above: Polish scientist Nikolaus Kopernikus (1473 – 1543)

Above: German mathematician Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630)

So it says in the first song of the Messiah:

In the middle of this gathering of the suns the sky rises,
round, immeasurable, the archetype of the worlds, the abundance of
all visible beauty, which, like fleeting brooks,
pours out, imitating it through the infinite space.
So, under the Eternal, it revolves around itself.


While he is walking,
the spherical harmonies resound from him, on the wings of the wind, to the shores of the suns
high. The songs of the divine harpists
resound with power, as if animating. These agreed tones lead the
immortal hearer past many a high praise song.

Above: Kepler’s Platonic model of the Solar System

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832) will take up this picture again in Faust

The “Prologue in Heaven” begins like this:

The sun resounds in the old fashion
in the fraternal song of contests,
And its prescribed journey
completes it with a thunderous walk
.

Above: German polymath Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Above: Faust in his study, by Georg Friedrich Kersting

Klopstock gave the German language new impulses and can be seen as a trailblazer for the generation that followed him. 

He was the first to use hexameter in German poetry with his Messiah, and his examination of the “German hexameter“, as he called it, led him to his doctrine of the word foot (the smallest rhythmic unit. 

This paved the way for free rhythms such as those used by Goethe and Friedrich Hölderlin (1770 – 1843) for example. 

Above: German poet Friedrich Hölderlin

Klopstock also fought against the strict use of rhyme according to the Martin Opitz (1597 – 1639) school. 

Opitz’s aim was to elevate German poetry on the basis of humanism and ancient forms to an art object of the highest order, and he succeeded in creating a new kind of poetics. 

In his commemorative speech on the 100th anniversary of Opitz’s death in 1739, Johann Christoph Gottsched (1700 – 1766) called him the first who had succeeded in bringing the German language to a level that met all the demands of sophisticated diction and eliminated everyday language, which allowed him to advance of the French. 

With his reflections on language, style and verse art, Opitz gave German poetry a formal basis. In doing so, he drew up various laws that served as guidelines and standards for all German poetry for over a century:

  • He demanded strict observance of the meter, taking into account the natural word accent.
  • He rejected impure rhymes. (Probably rejected dirty limericks, too!)
  • He forbade word abbreviations and contractions.
  • He also excluded foreign words.

Opitz’s aesthetic principles included the Horace (65 – 8 BCE) Principle:

Poetry, while it is pleasurable, must be useful and instructive at the same time.” 

Above: German poet Martin Opitz

Klopstock gave the poet’s profession a new dignity by exemplifying the artistic autonomy of the poet, and thus freed poetry from didactic poems. 

Klopstock is considered to be the founder of experiential poetry and German irrationalism. 

His work extended over large parts of the age of the Enlightenment. 

Unlike most Enlighteners, however, he was not committed to reason, but to sensitivity. 

In 1779 he coined the term inwardness, which he called one of nine elements of poetic representation:

“Inwardness, or highlighting the actual innermost nature of the thing.” 

Furthermore, he is considered an important pioneer for the movement of Sturm und Drang – literally “storm and desire”, though usually translated as “storm and stress“, where individual subjectivity and, in particular, extremes of emotion were given free expression.

Above: Friedrich Schiller’s The Robbers, an example of “Sturm und Drang

In The Sorrows of Young Werther, Klopstock’s effect is felt in the writing of Goethe:

We went to the window, it thundered to the side and the wonderful rain rustled on the land, and the most refreshing fragrance rose to us in the fullness of warm air. 

She stood on her elbow and her eyes penetrated the area, she looked up at the sky and at me, I saw her eyes full of tears, she put her hand on mine and said – “Klopstock!” 

I sank into the stream of sensations which she poured out on me in this loosing. 

I could not stand, leaned on her hand and kissed it with the most delightful tears. 

And looked at her eye again –

Noble! 

You would have seen your admiration in this look, and now I would never hear your name, which has so often been desecrated, mentioned again.

In spite of all this, the young Lessing registers:

Who will not praise a Klopstock?
But will everyone read it? – No!
We want to be less exalted
and read more diligently.”

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, The Sorrows of Young Werther

Above: Goethe’s The Sorrows of Young Werther

Klopstock reminds me of Zwingli.

Both strong men, both well-educated, both advocating radical change.

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In 1812 the Uetliberg watch was erected.

Above: Lookout Tower, Uetliberg

Above: The view from Uetliberg

The Alt Uetliberg is a small farm west below the former Annaburg. 

Mentioned in a document 400 years ago and probably much older, the mountain home is a witness of old farming culture on the Uetliberg. 

In 1984 the canton of Zürich wanted to demolish the building. 

A petition successfully opposed this. 

Today the buildings serve as a scout home. 

Alt Üetliberg: Heimverein Website
Above: Alt Üetliberg

A wooden ski jump was built in 1954 south of the Alt Uetliberg farmhouse . 

A hill record of 41.5 meters was achieved in the 1970s. 

Due to the frequent lack of snow and decreasing public interest, the ski jump was demolished in 1994.

Zürich » Skocznie Narciarskie Archiwum » skisprungschanzen.com
Above: Ski jump, Uetliberg

During the Second World War, the Uetliberg and Waldegg area was fortified with over 100 bunkered shelters as part of the first army position.

Above: Waldegg tank trench

In 1815 an inn opened in the former Hochwacht.

In 1838 Friedlich Bluntschli acquired the summit area from his cousin Gerber Bluntschli

The Zürich architect Johann Caspar Breitinger built the first spa house for Friedlich Bluntschli. 

In 1840 Friedrich Beyel opened the Uetliberg guest house and spa. 

Above: Hotel Uto Kulm, Uetliberg

Friedrich von Dürler was the son of Xaver von Dürler, a businessman from Lucerne, and Barbara Gossweiler from Zurich. 

Above: Friedrich von Dürler (1804 – 1840)

After the early death of his father, he trained as a businessman, but soon gave up the profession to devote himself to archeology and gymnastics. 

He was close friends with Ferdinand Keller, the founder of the Antiquarian Society of Zürich, and as treasurer of the association took part in excavations on the Lindenhof in Zurich and the Uetliberg. 

Above: Swiss archaeologist Ferdinand Keller (1800 – 1881)

Together with the theologian Alexander Schweizer, Dürler was one of the early promoters of gymnastics based on the ideas of the father of German gymnastics Friedrich Ludwig Jahn. 

Above: German educator Friedrich Ludwig Jahn (1778 – 1852)




From 1836 the bachelor served as secretary for the Zurich poor relief. 

In September 1838 Dürler became a member of the Swiss Society for Natural Research.

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On 19 August 1837, he had the chamois hunters and mountain farmers Bernhard and Gabriel Vögeli and Thomas Thut from Linthal take him up to the Glarner Tödi to prove their first ascent of the peak from the north on 11 August 1837.

Dürler is still honored today with a plaque in Linthal.

Tödi, view from the Gemsfairenstock
Above: Tödi Mountain, Canton Glarus, Switzerland

Dürler and friends climbed the Uetliberg, where the first restaurant had just opened. 

On 8 March 1840, this mountaineer, naturalist and Zürich secretary for the poor, Friedrich von Dürler (1804 – 1840) fell to his death after visiting the inn while descending. 

On the basis of a bet, he slipped down a steep gully on his alpine stick, fell over a rock and died. 

The friends erected a memorial stone with a plaque on the ridge east of today’s Uto Staffel Restaurant, the Dürlerstein.

Inscription:

Here
Friedrich von Dürler fell down and died on
March 8th MDCCCXL
Mourning friends
set this stone for him

Above: The Dürler Stone, Uetliberg

In 1873 the hotelier Caspar Fürst bought the mountain inn.

The existing house was enlarged and a hotel was built to the north of it. 

In 1927 the Uetliberg Hotel was taken over by the City of Zürich and the ETH Zürich-Lehrwald (teaching forest) was established. 

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Above: Logo of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology

In 1935 the Niedermann brothers, both major butchers in Zürich, bought the hotel. 

In 1943 it was closed. 

In 1973 the hotel came into the possession of the general contractor Karl Steiner. 

In 1983 the Swiss Bank Corporation bought the Uto Kulm mountain inn.

In 1999 Giusep Fry bought the hotel with a lookout tower. 

He subsequently carried out various modifications that were declared illegal by the Federal Supreme Court.

Federal Court (Switzerland) logo.svg

Tourist development began in the 19th century with the Uetlibergbahn (opened in 1875) and the construction of various hotels and guest houses on the Uetliberg and the Albis chain. 

Today the traditional Hotel Uto Kulm and the Uetliberg observation tower, open to the public all year round, stand on the summit of the Uetliberg.

Above: Hotel Uto Kulm and observation tower, Uetliberg

Car-free Üetliberg is accessed by the S10 line of the Sihital-Zürich-Uetliberg Bahn, which is part of the Zurich S-Bahn network, is Europe’s steepest standard-gauge adhesion railway, running from Zürich Main Station to the Uetliberg station – a ten-minute walk below the summit. 

Above: Uetliberg, by Hans Leu the Elder

From the train station, the Uetliberg – Felsenegg Planet Path leads to Felsenegg, where the Adliswil – Felsenegg aerial cableway leads down to Adliswil.

File:Planetenweg-Uetliberg-Felsenegg-Karte.svg - Wikimedia Commons

Various hiking trails lead from the city of Zurich to the summit in around an hour:

  • The varied Denzlerweg leads from Albisguetli (tram line 13 terminus) in a fairly straight direction to the summit. It is named after a baker Denzler who is said to have brought his rolls to the Hotel on the summit every morning on this route and is said to have made this route about 4,000 times.

Pfannenstiel Wanderblog: Am Uetliberg auf "Indianerpfaden": Denzlerweg und  Linderweg

File:Zh-denzlerweg.jpg - Wikimedia Commons
Above: The Denzler Path

  • Also from Albisgüetli, the Laternenweg leads a little further west onto the ridge. It takes its name from its earlier gas lantern lighting, which has been electrified since 2003.

laternenweg uetliberg . zürich | Please don't use this image… | Flickr
Above: Lantern Path in winter

  • From Triemli (tram line 14 terminus) the Hohensteinweg leads up a mountain shoulder, which is particularly popular as a toboggan run in winter.

Uetliberg • Three trails to the top of this Zurich mountain
Above: The High Stone Path

  • A forest road leads from Uitikon-Waldegg (parking lot) to the summit. This path has the least incline.

Ausflugsziel und Aussichtspunkt Uetliberg - Zürich | CREME GUIDES

The Uetliberg is particularly popular in winter, as its summit is often above the Zürich fog. 

In the past, in such inversion weather conditions, the tram lines that go to the foot of the Uetliberg carried the sign “Uetliberg hell”. 

In winter, some of the hiking trails are used as toboggan runs.

Swisscom operates an important telecommunications system on the Uetliberg (the Uetliberg television tower) for the transmission of radio and television programs.

The Uetliberg offers – especially from the Uetliberg observation tower on the mountain top – a view of the entire city and Lake Zürich. 

When the weather is good, the view extends to the north as far as Hohentwiel, and from east to south to Glarus, Graubünden and the Bernese Alps. 

Other mountain ranges in Germany (the Black Forest / Schwarzwald), France (Vosges) and Austria can also be seen.

Above: Uetliberg

The Felsenegg (810m) is a lookout point on the Albis chain and the mountain station of the Adliswil – Felsenegg aerial cableway southwest of Zürich.

The Albis is one of the most important local recreation and hiking areas in the greater Zürich area. 

Via the Felsenegg, the hiking trail from Uetliberg leads along the Albis ridge in an easterly direction to the Albis Pass, starting with the Uetliberg – Felsenegg Planet Trail. 

The Felsenegg on the Albisgrat
Above: Felsenegg

The Uetliberg – Felsenegg Planet Trail is a hiking trail in the canton of Zürich on the Albis. 

The path leads from the Uetliberg railway station of the Uetlibergbahn to Staffel, Annaburg, above the Fallätsche via Mädikon to the Felsenegg station of the Adliswil – Felsenegg aerial cableway, via Felsenegg to Buchenegg. 

The duration of the hike is around two hours.

The trail was designed by Arnold von Rotz and opened on 26 April 1979. 

The patronage was taken over by the Astronomical Society Urania Zürich.

Above: Urania Observatory, Zürich

The path is laid out on a scale of 1:1 billion and thus offers a clear representation of the sizes and distances in the solar system. 

One meter of the model corresponds to one million kilometers in reality. 

The planetary path includes not only the Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune, planets Mercury, but also the dwarf planets Ceres and Pluto.

File: Solar System Graphics.pdf

Above: Representation of the Solar System – We are the third rock from the Sun.

The planet models are attached to boulders on the Linth or Reuss glacier along the way. 

Above: Reuss glacier boulder with model of Jupiter

The smaller planet models were poured into glass and set into a niche in the boulder, the larger ones attached to the top of the boulder. 

Above: Venus model in a Malmkalk boulder

A board on each planet provides information about its position in the solar system and additional information, such as equatorial diameter, rotational speed, orbital speed, orbit circumference, and the like. 

As a model of the sun, a yellow sphere with a diameter of 1.39 meters was attached to a pole, which can be seen clearly from the first planetary models .

Above: Sun model with two Reuss glacier boulders

Dwarf planet Pluto is represented with three stations because of its strongly elliptical orbit:

Global LORRI mosaic of Pluto in true color.jpg
Above: Pluto

The first position corresponds to the perihelion, while it lies ahead of Neptune. 

Above: Model of Neptune with view of Uetliberg

The second position at Felsenegg corresponds to the mean distance and the third station near Buchenegg corresponds to the aphelion.

The next star, Proxima Centauri, would be around 40,113 kilometers away on the same scale.

Proxima Centauri (image from the Hubble Space Telescope)
Above: Proxima Centauri, as seen from the Hubble Space Telescope

(For comparison: the circumference of the Earth is around 40,030 kilometers).

The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg
Above: Earth

A steep forest path built between 1908 and 1912 leads from Adliswil up to Felsenegg.

Uetliberg Hike • Panorama Planetenweg Trail
Above: Uetliberg

Adliswil is located in the lower Sihl valley between Albis and Zimmerberg on the border with the city of Zürich. 

The forest covers a third of the municipal area, the settlement area and traffic almost half, 20% are still used for agriculture.

The graves from the early Middle Ages, which were found in the Grüt near the border with the city of Zurich, give evidence of settlements. 

The slopes of Zimmerberg and Albis were settled first, as the valley floor along the Sihl was repeatedly endangered by floods.

Adliswil and the Sihl valley
Above: Adliswil and the Sihl Valley

A bridge over the Sihl has been documented since 1475. 

The first mill with a weir (dam) is also mentioned in the 15th century. 

The manorial power lay with the Grossmünster and Frauminister of Zürich, as well as the monasteries of Muri and Rüti, and passed to the city of Zürich in 1406.

Above: Grossmünster, Zürich

Above: Fraumünster, Zürich

Above: Müri Monastery

Above: Rüti Monastery before the fire of 1706

From 1942 to 1945, the second largest internment camp in Switzerland, which was set up as a result of the German occupation of southern France, was located in Adliswil. 

It was housed in the rooms of a disused mechanical silk weaving mill. 

In particular, German Jews who had previously found refuge in southern France tried to escape to Switzerland afterwards. 

The transit camp, which, despite its size, was little known among the population because it was shielded by the military, offered space for around 500 people. 

Internment in Switzerland during World War II
Above: Adliswil Internment Camp buildings

Refugees at the table, camp for internees in Adliswil, 1945 Refugees...  News Photo - Getty Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Camp for internees in Adliswil, women and children in camp on loft,... News  Photo - Getty Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Camp for internees in Adliswil, woman ironing, 1945 News Photo - Getty  Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Places to sleep in camp for internees in Adliswil, 1945 News Photo - Getty  Images
Above: Dorm quarters, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Camp for internees in Adliswil, boys at board game, 1945 News Photo - Getty  Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

The community experienced a strong growth spurt in the 19th century through industrialization, during which a large spinning company, the Mechanische Seidenweberei Adliswil (MSA), was built. 

Home Page
Above: The Mechanical Silk Manufacturing Company, Adliswil

The village was also home to the chocolate manufacturer Norma, which later became part of the Cima – Norma SA company in Dangio – Torre.

Above: Buildings of Cima-Norma SA, Dangio-Torre, Canton Ticino, Switzerland

Today many of the residents work in Zürich. 

The majority of the resident companies operate in the tertiary sector. 

In particular, insurance companies (Generali, Swiss Reinsurance Company) have located part of their administration in Adliswil. 

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The Liechtenstein tool manufacturer Hilti has its Swiss headquarters in Adliswil. 

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A total of around 5,000 people in all sectors work in Adliswil.

Coat of arms of Adliswil
Above: Coat of arms of Adliswil

Some personalities of Adliswil:

  • Stefan Bachmann is a Swiss-American author of novels and short stories.

Above: Stefan Bachmann

His debut novel The Peculiar was published in 2012.

Bachmann was born in Colorado, but soon moved with his family to Adliswil. 

He was home schooled by his American mother and four siblings through high school. 

Above: Adliswil

He attended the Zürich Conservatory since he was 11, and then the Zürich University of the Arts, where he studied organ and composition. 

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His first novel was published when he was 19 years old. 

He writes his books in English.

Amazon.co.uk: Stefan Bachmann: Books, Biography, Blogs, Audiobooks, Kindle

The Peculiar is about the opening of a portal to the fairy world, as a result of which a multitude of magical creatures come into the human world. 

Since the portal closed, the fairies and elves have been prevented from returning and have to live side by side with the humans. 

Children of a human and a fairy are called “the Peculiar” and are especially outlawed as crossbreeds on both sides.

Bartholomew and his little sister Henrietta “Hettie” Kettle are mixed race whose fairy father has left the family. 

They live with their mother on Krähengasse in Bath and are almost never allowed to leave the house, as very few people shy away from killing “mixed race children”. 

One day Bartholomew observes a lady in a plum-colored dress from the window of a secret attic room who is picking up another mongrel boy from the neighbors. 

When Bartholomew follows her, he is magically wrapped in feathers and taken into a distant, noble room, which he leaves shortly afterwards in the same way.

Arthur Jelliby is a parliamentarian and member of the Council of State in London, which also includes a fairy elite. 

For some time now, mongrels have been mysteriously disappearing and then found dead, which most of the Members of Parliament don’t care much. 

When Jelliby is invited to the fairy attorney general Lickerish, he gets lost in his house in a corridor and is tracked down by Lickerish’s fairy butler, who suspects him to have spied. 

By chance, Jelliby overhears Lickerish in an office and comes across a diabolical plan to open the portal to the fairy world in order to deliver England to the fairies. 

To do this, Lickerish needs a certain mixed-race child that the lady in the plum-colored dress named Melusine is supposed to get for him. 

In the meantime, Bartholomew has tried to conjure up a house ghost and instead leads Lickerish’s henchmen to him, who kidnap Hettie. 

At the same time, Jelliby arrives in Crow Alley and comes across Bartholomew, who is desperately looking for his sister. 

Together they make their way to the fairy market to get weapons for defense, and then to a lonely place in the forest where an old fairy lives in a trailer and tells them about Lickerish’s plans. 

He wants to invade all magical beings from the fairy world to England in order to subdue people and to rule over them.

Bartholomew and Jelliby travel back to London, where they locate an old warehouse with access to an airship over the city. 

That is where Lickerish is holding Hettie. 

He is responsible for the disappearance and death of the other mixed race children because he was looking for the right one. 

Hettie is the portal to the fairy world and is supposed to open it that night. 

When it happens, Bartholomew and Jelliby join them. 

They want to prevent the portal from opening, but fail, and Hettie disappears into the fairy world together with the fairy butler. 

The story ends with Bartholomew’s decision to bring Hettie home at all costs.

The Peculiar : Bachmann, Stefan: Amazon.co.uk: Books

Bachmann wrote The Peculiar in English at the age of 16, inspired by The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia, among others. 

First Single Volume Edition of The Lord of the Rings.gif
Above: J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings

The Chronicles of Narnia box set cover.jpg

According to his own information, he needed six months for the first version with 400 pages, plus another six months for the revision. 

Stefan Bachmann - The Peculiar | WAMC
Above: Bachmann at the time of the publishing of The Peculiar

An agent sent the manuscript to US publisher Harper Collins, who published it on 18 September 2012. 

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According to some media reports, the novel quickly became a bestseller in the US, which also led to the film industry’s interest in film rights. 

Along with the publication, a book trailer was produced, the musical accompaniment of which was composed by Bachmann himself. 

A reading tour through the USA and a blog tour through Asia followed in 2013 and brought the author an income in the six-figure range. 

The book has been translated into seven languages, including Czech, Polish, and Spanish. 

The German translation was published on 26 February 2014 by the Swiss Diogenes Verlag.

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Both the press, as well as representatives of fantasy literature judged The Peculiar mainly positive. 

The New York Times wrote in September 2012 that The Peculiar was “a story young fantasy buffs are sure to enjoy”.

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The Los Angeles Times wrote “Bachmann’s prose is so elegantly witty.

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Publishers Weekly described the novel as “limitless reading pleasure for readers of all ages.” 

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Christopher Paolini, author of the fantasy series Eragon, praised the book as “swift, strong and entertaining, highly recommanded”.

Above: Christopher Paolini

Percy Jackson author Rick Riordan said:

Stefan Bachmann breathes fresh life into ancient magic.

Above: Rick Riordan

  • Margrit Baur (1937 – 2017) was a Swiss writer and secretary.

She was born and raised in Adliswil.

After teachers’ college, she attended a drama school in Vienna, where she also appeared in small theatres for a few years after completing her training.

Back in Switzerland, she worked in various “bread and butter” jobs in order to be able to devote herself freely to writing.

She brought up this juxtaposition of professional life and “real” life above all in Survival (1981) and Downtime(1983)

Baur lived in Gattikon near Zürich until 2017.

Baur, Margrit: Archiv Margrit Baur
Above: Margrit Baur

  • Franz Fassbind (1919 – 2003) was a Swiss writer, playwright and journalist.

Franz Fassbind was the son of photographer and small publisher Bernardin Fassbind (1887 – 1954) and Lina Fassbind-Marty (1884 – 1931) in Unteriberg in the canton of Schwyz. 

Unteriberg – Wikipedia
Above: Unteriberg

He grew up in poor conditions, first in the Engadine, then in Zürich’s industrial district and in Wipkingen. 

Above: The course of the Inn River – Within Swiss territory the Inn (En) River Valley is called the Engadine.

Above: Zürich’s Industrial Quarter

Above: Wipkingen

Later he attended the collegiate school of Einsiedeln Monastery and the Jesuit college in Feldkirch. 

Above: Einsiedeln Monastery

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Above: The former Jesuit college, Stella Matutina (today: the Vorarlberg State Conservatory), Feldkirch, Austria

During these years Franz Fassbind wrote his first poems and small compositions. 

After dropping out of high school, he studied music at the Zürich Conservatory from 1936 and German studies at the University of Zürich. 

Above: The Zürich Conservatory (today: Zürich University of the Arts)

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Without ever finishing a degree, he worked as a freelance journalist, writer and composer. 

His first poems were published in 1936, Radio Beromünster broadcast his first radio play at Christmas 1938, and his first novel was published three years later.

Landessender Beromünster - Architekturbibliothek
Above: Landesender Beromünster, home of Radio Beromünster, Gunzwil, Canton Luzern, Switzerland

Franz Fassbind became known primarily for his work for Swiss Radio. 

His radio plays and features had a formative effect on the medium from 1938 to 1974. 

Just as important was the series of programs he initiated, “The International Forum”, in which he allowed well-known scientists to have their say. 

His radio reviews in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung found a wide readership. 

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His journalistic work is also an expression of the spiritual defense movement.

Station logo
Above: Logo for Swiss Radio

(The spiritual defense movement is the cross-party strengthening of values ​​and customs perceived as “Swiss” in order to ward off totalitarian ideologies. 

At first it was directed primarily against National Socialism (Nazism) and Facism, later during the Cold War against Communism. 

Even when intellectual national defense was no longer actively pursued by the authorities, the cultural, anti-totalitarian values ​​remained in effect.

Swiss politicians still use the terms and metaphors of intellectual national defense today.) 

Above: Marble sculpture Readiness for military service, Ramisstrasse, Zürich

In the Dramaturgy of the Radio Play published in 1943 , he also reflected on his radio work theoretically.

In 1956 he turned to the medium of film. 

For The Art of the Etruscans he provided both the script and the music. 

The work earned him the 1st Film Prize of the City of Zürich. 

Filmpreis der Zürcher Kirchen | Filmpreisverleihung am Zurich Film Festival

From 1948 Fassbind’s main poetic work, Die Hohe Messe (The High Mass), was published in demanding terzins – an Italian rhyming scheme wherein each stanza consists of three verses – based on Dante. 

There, as in his novels from the post war period, the focus is on dealing with Catholicism in today’s world.

Above: Dante Alighieri (1265 – 1321)

Fassbind married Gertrud Schmucki in 1941. 

Their only child, a daughter, Ursula was born in 1943. 

The family lived in Adliswil near Zürich, where Franz Fassbind died on 9 July 2003 at the age of 84.

Peter Wild published an edition of his work at Walter Verlag in Olten.

fassbind - zeitloses leben roman - ZVAB
Above: Fassbind’s Zeitloses Leben (Timeless Life)

  • Hannes Gruber (1928 – 2016) was a Swiss painter.

HANNES GRUBER - Hannes Gruber
Above: Hannes Gruber

Hannes Gruber was the second son of Paul and Erna Gruber-Hartmann. 

He spent his youth and school days in Oberrieden on Lake Zürich. 

Above: Oberrieden

In 1943 – 1944 he attended the Zürich School of Applied Arts (1883 – 2007). 

From 1944 to 1948 he did an apprenticeship with Swiss bookseller Orell Füssli in Zürich, at the same time he attended courses in the painting at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

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After moving to Grevasalvas in the Upper Engadine (1948) he worked there as a freelance painter. 

In 1953 his son Stefan (now known as filmmaker Steff Gruber) was born. 

Im Heididorf (Grevasalvas 1941 m) | In diesem idyllischen Be… | Flickr
Above: Grevasalvas, Upper Engadine

After returning to Zürich (1954), Hannes Gruber opened his own graphic studio. 

In 1957 his daughter Ursina was born. 

In 1968 his daughter Sandrina was born. 

Hannes Gruber | Artnet
Above: Hannes Gruber painting

The next year Gruber opened a studio on the Hirzel, a Swiss pass in the foothills of cantons Zürich and Zug, between Wadenswil and Sihlbrugg. 

Hirzel Pass - Hirzel, ZH/ZG
Above: Hirzelpass

In 1972 he moved to the Engadin again, this time to Sils Baselgia. 

Sils Maria (left) and Sils Baselgia (right).
Above: The towns of Sils Maria (left) and Sils Baselgia (right)

He moved into a studio in Bondo. 

in Bondo
Above: Bondo

Gruber made his first painting trip to Northern Italy in 1949. 

Flag of Italy
Above: Flag of Italy

A study trip took him to the Netherlands in 1950 and another painting trip to Denmark in 1952. 

Flag of Netherlands
Above: Flag of the Netherlands

Red with a white cross that extends to the edges of the flag; the vertical part of the cross is shifted to the hoist side
Above: Flag of Denmark

He made further trips to Italy (1958) to Bergamo and Verona, then to Sicily (1966) and Tuscany (1967). 

The skyline of the old fortified Upper City
Above: Bergamo, Italy

A collage of Verona, clockwise from top left to right: View of Piazza Bra from Verona Arena, House of Juliet, Verona Arena, Ponte Pietra at sunset, Statue of Madonna Verona's fountain in Piazza Erbe, view of Piazza Erbe from Lamberti Tower
Above: Images of Verona, Italy

Flag of Sicily
Above: Flag of Sicily

Flag of Tuscany
Above: Flag of Tuscany (Toscana)

A summer stay in Spain (1969) earned him a commission for several wall paintings on a building on Ibiza. 

Map of Ibiza map
Above: Mediterranean Spanish island of Ibiza

He travelled to New York in 1974.

Clockwise, from above: Midtown Manhattan, Times Square, Unisphere in Queens, Brooklyn Bridge, Lower Manhattan with One World Trade Center, Central Park, UN headquarters, Statue of Liberty

Above: Images of New York City

 

Another summer stay in Italy took place in 1977..

Coat of arms of Italy
Above: Emblem of Italy

His first watercolours of landscapes from the area around Oberrieden were created in 1940.

He painted in oil for the first time in 1942.

Above: Oberrieden 

Oberrieden by Hannes Gruber on artnet
Above: Oberrieden, by Hannes Gruber

In 1950 he received an order for large murals for the Olma – the annual agricultural fair in St. Gallen. 

Above: OLMA (Swiss Fair for Agriculture and Food) halls, St. Gallen

In 1966 he illustrated an edition of Tristan by Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955). 

In 1971 he was commissioned with a three-dimensional wall design in the Fuhr schoolhouse in Wädenswil.

Schulhaus Fuhr | Oberstufe Wädenswil
Above: Fuhr Schulhaus, Wadenswil

  • Peter Holenstein (1946 – 2019) was a Swiss journalist and author.

Peter Holenstein
Above: Peter Holenstein

In his journalistic work, for example in the Swiss weekly magazine Weltwoche, Peter Holenstein dealt in particular with topics relating to criminal justice and crime, the perpetrator-victim problem and the causes of violent crimes. 

World Week logo

His book The Incredible: The Murderous Life of Werner Ferrari in 2007 led to a review of the child murder case of Ruth Steinmann at the Baden District Court, which ended in Ferrari’s acquittal. 

Der Unfassbare. Das mörderische Leben des Werner Ferrari.: Holenstein, Peter:  9783035020014: Amazon.com: Books

Werner Ferrari is a Swiss serial killer. 

Werner Ferrari Whois

As a five-time child murderer, he is one of the most famous prison inmates in Switzerland. 

For example, he kidnapped or lured children away from public festivals, abused some of the victims and strangled them.

Ferrari grew up in various children’s and youth homes and was considered an introvert. 

He performed various jobs as an unskilled worker.

In 1971 Ferrari committed his first infanticide:

In Reinach (BL), he murdered 10-year-old Daniel Schwan. 

Above: Daniel Schwan (1961 – 1971)

Ferrari was sentenced to ten years in prison and released early after eight years in prison from the Zürich prison in Regensdorf.

Above: Regensdorf Prison

Between 1980 and 1989, 21 children disappeared in Switzerland, 14 of whom were found abused and murdered. 

Seven children, including Peter Roth (8) from Mogelsberg (SG), Sarah Oberson (5) from Saxon (VS), and Edith Trittenbass (9) from Gass-Wetzikon (TG), are still missing today despite intensive searches. 

The Lost Children of Switzerland - True Crime Diva
Above: Peter Roth

Vermisstenfälle: Entführte Kinder in der Schweiz

Above: Edith Trittenbass

On 30 August 1989, four days after Fabienne Imhof’s murder, Werner Ferrari called the police – and stated that he had nothing to do with her death. 

Vermisstenfälle: Entführte Kinder in der Schweiz
Above: Fabienne Imhof

Shortly afterwards he was arrested in his apartment in Olten, and he made confessions in four cases. 

Old town with wooden bridge
Above: Olten

Ferrari vehemently denied the murder of 12-year-old Ruth Steinmann, who was found on 16 May 1980 in a wooded area near Würenlos (AG).

In 1995 Ferrari was sentenced to life imprisonment by the Baden District Court for fivefold murder, including for the crime committed against Ruth Steinmann. 

Seven years later, research by journalist and book author Peter Holenstein discovered evidence that Ferrari could not be responsible for the murder of Ruth Steinmann. 

Among other things, a DNA analysis initiated by the journalist revealed that a pubic hair that could be secured on Ruth Steinmann’s corpse did not come from Ferrari.

On the basis of Holenstein’s research, the higher court of the canton of Aargau overturned the judgment against Ferrari in the Ruth Steinmann case in 2004 and referred it back to the Baden District Court for reassessment. 

As a result, a suspect on Ruth Steinmann was exhumed in March 1983 in Wolfhalden (AG) who had committed suicide. 

A dental report from the Scientific Service of the Zürich City Police showed that the bite marks on the girl’s body were definitely not from Ferrari, but from the man who died in 1983 and who looked very similar to Ferrari. 

In a national appeal, Werner Ferrari was found innocent on 10 April 2007 by the Baden District Court for the murder of Ruth Steinmann and acquitted of this crime. 

However, he remains detained for the other four cases.

Kriminalfälle - Diese brutalen Bluttaten haben den Aargau erschüttert
Above: Ruth Steinmann (1968 – 1980)

As early as 1979, Holenstein succeeded in resolving a murder case in Italy with his research:

After he was able to convict the right perpetrator and he made a confession, the 46-year-old Swiss Werner Rudolf Meier was declared innocent in Elba Prison after 24 years served and was pardoned by Italy’s President Sandro Pertini. 

Above: Sandro Pertini (1896 – 1990), 7th Italian President (1978 – 1985)

From Dominique Strebel and  Christoph Schilling, Beobachter, 28 December 2006

The fortnightly Swiss magazine Beobachter (The Observer) reveals grievances where state arbitrariness is worst: in educational, reformatory or penal institutions. 

Everywhere where the individual is exposed to state power without protection. 

And this is most glaringly shown in the case of errors of justice, to which the Beobachter repeatedly points out.

Take the case of the Zürich furniture maker Werner Rudolf Meier, who was imprisoned in Italy for 24 years – for a murder that he demonstrably did not commit. 

Only when the journalist Peter Holenstein researched meticulously did the matter move. 

Holenstein convicted the real murderer, who made a full confession. 

A revision procedure failed, because the court declared the confessing perpetrator to be insane. 

Holenstein continued to write about the case until Federal Councilors Willi Ritschard and Pierre Aubert spoke directly to the Italian President Sandro Pertini on behalf of Meier. 

He was finally released in 1979. 

“Without the Beobachter, this would not have been possible,” said Holenstein.

It played a decisive role in putting pressure on us.” 

Meier was not acquitted, but pardoned. 

Therefore, he did not receive any compensation for unlawful detention. 

Even now, the Beobachter does not let Meier fall and “participates in the necessary health, professional and human integration efforts with advice and action”.

observer
Above: Logo of the Beobachter (Observer)

In 2001, Holenstein was awarded the German Regino Prize for the best judicial report of the year for Der Verdacht (The Suspicion), published in the magazine Tages-Anzeiger (Daily Indicator). 

The magazine (Switzerland) Logo.svg
Above: Logo of Das Magazin (formerly Tages-Anzeiger)

Peter Holenstein was a member of the Swiss Working Group for Criminology (SAK) and the Swiss Criminological Society (SKG / SSDP). 

At the age of 72, he died in Zürich in January 2019 as a result of a heart attack.

skg-ssdp – Schweizerische Kriminalistische Gesellschaft

  • Pjotr ​​Kraska, actually Peter Johannes Kraska, also known as Kraska rex (1946 – 2016) was a Swiss action artist, writer, visual artist, critic of the authorities and a Zürich original.

Above: Pjotr Kraska

In the late 60s he appeared, sometimes together with Dieter Meier, in experimental theatre and in avant-garde shows that startled the bourgeoisie at the time. 

Above: Dieter Meier

His book, The Big Throw, reflects on speaking and writing

One poem (1978/79) was partly enthusiastically discussed. 

In 1980 he declared himself “King of Zürich and Bilbao, ruler of the Zen and A-centric empires” and from then on fought a bitter but unsuccessful dispute over free travel on the Zürich public transport network (ZVV).

Above: Kraska’s “Triumphal Arch Card” for the entire transport network in the canton of Zürich

Logo Verkehrsbetriebe Zürich
Above: ZVV logo

Kraska, the son of East Prussian parents, grew up as the third of four children in Oberleimbach (Adliswil). 

Above: Adliswil

After leaving school, he attended the Appenzell-Ausserrhoden (AR) cantonal school in Trogen, but took off before completion, deciding that he was an actor. 

Gsell lithography Altes Konvikt Kantonsschule Trogen.jpg
Above: The Kantonsschule Trogen

He later lived in Zürich’s old town in Niederdorf. 

Above: HIrschenplatz (Deer Square), Niederdorf (Lower Town), Zürich

In 1966, Kraska began writing and performing experimental plays. 

He made his first public appearance on the occasion of the performance of Ladislav Kupkovic’s Písmená by the Zürich Chamber Choir in Fred Barth’s piece Forum Concert . 

Diskant - Ladislav Kupkovič

Above: Slovak musician Ladislav Kupkovic (1936 – 2016)

In 1968 the 22-year-old Kraska founded the Wath-Tholl-Theater, where he performed the Darkroom play the same year:

What can be admired in the non-stop, two and a half hour Darkroom piece is the concentration of the actors, the consistency with which the audience is alluded to that openly expressing incomprehension, and above all the virtuoso leadership of a – if one may say so – musical perceived arc to which the text is subordinated. 

Kraska’s problem is – and in this piece, in this nightmare, in any case in an annoying way, he chokes it out of himself – the lack of relationships, the groping in the pitch dark. 

Must this artistically inadequate examination of what may afflict a sensitive young man today take place in public and on a stage?

Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 16 June 1968

Der König von Zürich tritt ab | Tages-Anzeiger
Above: The King of Zürich’s 1968 passport

In 1969 Kraska took part with the Wath-Tholl-Theater in the avant-garde show Underground Explosions, which was performed in Munich (München), Zürich and Cologne (Köln), among others, together with the rock groups Amon Düül and Guru Guru Groove, the Bavarians Paul and Limpe Fuchs (aka Anima) with experimental primal scream music, as well the Viennese performance artists Valie Export and Peter Weibel. 

Guru Guru Groove Band – The Birth Of Krautrock 1969 (2016, CD) - Discogs

Anima & Limpe Fuchs - complete catalogue

Above: Austrian artist Waltraud Stockinger (née Lehner) (aka Valie Export)

Above: Austrian artist Peter Weibel

The Zürich concept artist Dieter Meier and Munich film activist Karl Heinz organized the shows, which culminated in student revolts, pop revolts and avant-garde culture, which grew into tangible scandal. 

Der Spiegel (The Mirror) devoted a whole page to the occasion after the performance in the Munich Circus Krone (which claims to be the biggest circus in the world) and in the Zürich Volkshaus, led to panic and chaos. 

Above: Circus Krone, Munich, Germany

Above: Zürich Volkshaus

Der Spiegel wrote about Kraska:

logo

The Wath Tholl theatre of Zürich actor Pjotr ​​Kraska (22):

The group of twelve, aged between 16 and 24, spent the winter at an Andalusian farm honing their style.

The Kraska clan entered the Krone Circus with animal screams, attacked each other in combat ballets and ecstatic Blocksberg hugs. 

Kraska, who uses his pants as a notepad, wants to achieveunity between mind and body”.

When a spectator kissed a Kraska girl, she fell to the ground as if touched by lightning.

Der Spiegel, 21 April 1969

Pjotr Kraska – Der Grosse Wurf (1980, Vinyl) - Discogs
Above: Pjotr Kraska

Even later, Kraska appeared as an action artist. 

For example, in 1982 he invited to a “simple monarchical-clerical celebration” on the Pestalozziwiese in Zürich , where Kristin T. Schnider was supposed to “let go“, as was announced – apparently with little public success:

Above: Swiss educator Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi Monument, Pestalozziwiese (park), Bahnhofstrasse, Zürich

Now Kristin T. Schnider is no longer black-haired and no longer a poet, but rather bald and, as one hears, the first court poet to Kraska’s spiritual monarchy. 

And the actors pull away. 

The honoured audience sinks back into the grass and into boredom.

Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 24 – 25 July 1982

Above: Swiss writer Kristin T. Schnider

From the 1970s, Kraska shifted increasingly to writing and worked as a publicist. 

In 1979 his first book, The Big Throw, was published

A poem was enthusiastically reviewed by some of the critics and reprinted in 2000:

The Big Throw is a ‘narrative‘ (246 pages) about writing, about language itself, which is rare in the linguistic landscape of Switzerland and which has so far hardly been heard of reflexive density, biblical form of language and metalinguistic stubbornness.

Stubbornness repeatedly brought back the litter before it could still hit. 

Sounds fall silent in meaning, profundity evaporates in letters:

In every way language is driven out of language, but hollowness and fullness now fall back all the more into the words.

Here there is no commitment to this or that, here is total commitment to the language. 

There is an intelligent and at the same time eloquent talent at work.”

Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 2 May 1978

Der König von Zürich ist tot | Tages-Anzeiger

Above: Kraska’s Der Grosse Wurf (The Big Throw)

In 1981 the novella Death in Naples was followed in 1982 by the novel The Hand in the Clong, and Buddha smiles forever

Top: Panorama view of Mergellina Port, Mergellina, Chiaia area, over view of Mount Vesuvius, Second left: Piazza del Plebiscito Second right: Toledo metro station Third left: Castel Nuovo, Third right: Museo di Capodimonte, Bottom: View of Royal Palace of Naples
Above: Images of Naples (Napoli), Italy (Italia)

Buddha in Sarnath Museum (Dhammajak Mutra).jpg
Above: Buddha statue, Sarnath Museum, India

Kraska also published several articles in the Neue Zürcher Zeitiung on bullfighting and flamenco. 

Above: Matador and bull, Cancun, Mexico

Above: Flamenco dancers, Cordoba, Spain

He had an ambivalent relationship with the Kunsthaus Zürich. 

Above: Kunsthaus Zürich (Zürich Arthouse)

For the exhibition Dada Global (1994) he was allowed to design a showcase as a “contemporary representative of Dadaism.” 

Vintage poster – Dada Global, Kunsthaus Zürich – Galerie 1 2 3

In 2013 the Kunsthaus acquired two Swiss banknotes painted by Kraska, and the museum library owns a complete collection of Court News

Conversely, the latter refused to include the “royal coat of arms” designed by Peter Fischli in the Fischli / Weiss retrospective, whereupon Kraska burned it in a public staging in front of the Kunsthaus. 

Estate of Peter Fischli David Weiss – Sprüth Magers
Above: Peter Fischli (b. 1952) and David Weiss (1946 – 2012)

Peter Fischli David Weiss - Kunsthaus Zürich – Works – eMuseum Museum für  Gestaltung Zürich Archiv Zürcher Hochschule der Künste ZHdK | David,  Poster, Novelty sign

Most recently, Kraska bequeathed his urn with the ashes to the Kunsthaus – a gift that was not accepted.

Peter Johannes Kraska: Der König von Zürich ist tot - 20 Minuten
Above: Kraska burns the coat of arms, Kunsthaus Zürich

During the Zürich youth riots of 1980, Kraska declared himself “His Majesty King Kraska of Zurich and Bilbao, ruler of the Central and A-Central Empire“. 

From upper left: panoramic, Guggenheim Museum, Azkuna Zentroa, Church of San Antón, Puppy, Arriaga Theatre, Iberdrola Tower, San Mamés Stadium, Uribarri station of Metro Bilbao, fireworks in the Aste Nagusia, fosterito, Miguel de Unamuno Square in the Casco Viejo, La Salve and Bilbao-Abando railway station.
Above: Images of Bilboa, Spain

During this time, he published the Crown’s Official Court News every nine months. 

In this glossy magazine he printed, among other things, excerpts from his numerous disputes in court, wrote instructions for the production of blank stamp cards, glorified the Spanish bullfight and rounded off everything with numerous photographs of himself and his followers. 

In 2015 he laid down the “crown”.

Offizielle Hofnachrichten der Krone by domibodara - issuu

In the 80s and 90s he quarreled with the Zürich transport company (ZVV) and the responsible city councilor, Jürg Kaufmann:

Jürg Kaufmann (ca. 1980), Stadtrat (SP), Zürich
Above: Jürg Kaufmann

The “King” took the right to travel without a ticket and declared himself a “green driver” (“in the service of the environment”) and fought a bitter dispute through all court instances until the Federal Court upheld a sentence of 30 days in prison in 1987.

Above: Federal Courthouse, Lausanne, Switzerland

In another trial, the Zürich District Council sentenced Kraska to three months’ imprisonment for “continued fraudulent activity“.

Above: District Courthouse, Zürich

Kraska unsuccessfully sued the Zürich city councilman Jürg Kaufmann for “insulting”, as he had described him in the magazine Bonus 24 as a “total weirdo”. 

Kraska’s defense attorney was temporarily the politically committed lawyer Barbara Hug, who had also represented the “escape king” Walter Stürm , the “sprayer of Zürich” Harald Naegeli and the alleged terrorist Giorgio Bellini in court. 

Archivperlen - Walter Stürm ist tot - Play SRF
Above: Walter Stürm (1942 – 1999)

Above: Harald Naegeli

Giorgio Bellini (@belgio72) | Twitter
Above: Giorgio Bellini

As the quotations interspersed here show, Kraska’s work was controversial. 

In a résumé, the Tages Anzeiger wrote:

In fact, King Kraska, together with Dieter Meier and other Dadaists, took up what had moved the 1960s: the liberation from authority and bourgeois morals. 

Today, the 67-year-old’s art and subjects are outdated. 

The civil fright has degenerated into a civil servant fright.

Tages-Anzeiger, 26 June 2014

Der König von Zürich ist tot | Tages-Anzeiger
Above: Pjotr Kraska

His work as an artist faded increasingly into the background in the public perception, and from the 1980s his persistent fight for free use of public transport was at the center (“Schwarzfahrer-König“), which occupied all court instances. 

For the Beobachter, Kraska was therefore “a prominent example of the type of the modern resister“. 

In the obituaries published in 2016, Kraska was drawn primarily as a city original.

Above: Pjotr Kraska (right), Cabaret Voltaire, Zürich, 2007

  • Kamil Krejčí is a Czech-Swiss actor, director and author who has lived in Switzerland since 1968.

Kamil Krejci.jpg
Above: Kamil Krejčí

Kamil Krejčí attended the Zürich Acting Academy, where he trained as an actor and director. 

Since 1987 he has been active on the stage and in film. 

After a permanent engagement at the Stadttheater St. Gallen and the Stadt Bühnen Münster, he was a freelance actor and director. 

Above: Stadt Theater, St. Gallen

Above: Theater Münster, Germany

Krejčí worked on many stages in Switzerland and Germany, for example, the B. Fritz Rémond Theater, comedy in the Bayerischer Hof (Bavarian Court), Stadttheater Bern, Luzern and Solothurn. 

Seat of the theater in the society house of the zoo in Frankfurt
Above: The B. Fritz Rémond Theater, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Above: The Bavarian Court, Munich, Germany

Above: Stadt Theater, Bern, Switzerland

Above: Stadt Theater, Bern, Switzerland

Above: Stadt Theater Solothurn, Switzerland

He also played Erwin Imhof in Mannezimmer (Swiss television) in 65 episodes.

ManneZimmer - Die komplette Serie - DVD - online kaufen | Ex Libris

He was the founder of various theater companies, such as BIM Stage, Artsi Fartsi or Take Theater.

Vermietung - Kulturzentrum BiM
Above: Bühne Imst Mitte (BIM)(Stage in the middle), Zürich

Kamil Krejčí was responsible for the text editing of Der kleine Horrorladen (Little Shop of Horrors), as well as the Swiss-German version of the musical Elternabend (Parents’ Night) for the Theater am Hechtplatz or s’Dschungelbuech (The Jungle Book) for the Bernhardtheater. 

Above: Virginia Theater, Broadway, New York City

Above: Theater am Hechtplatz, Zürich

Bernhard-Theater Zürich - Wikipedia
Above: Bernhard Theater, Zürich

The family musicals Der Zauberlehrling (The Sorcerer’s Apprentice), De chli Isbär (The Little Polar Bear), s’Dschungelbuech (The Jungle Book) and D’Schatzinsle (Treasure Island) toured Switzerland for several years. 

Krejci wrote the scripts for The Sorcerer’s Apprentice, The Little Polar Bear and Treasure Island.

For Dschungelbuch he was responsible for the direction and the text version.

Above: First page of Der Zauberling by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

De Chli Isbär: a musical for the entire family - Vivamost!

Kamil Krejčí is the “inventor” of the “Adliswil Christmas Calendar”. 

From 2001 to 2018 he organized and hosted his living Christmas calendar in Adliswil. 

Together with Brigitte Schmidlin and Beat Gärtner (Stadt Theater) he told his own and adapted Christmas stories every day of Advent. 

Krejci now has a “story pool” of more than 200 Christmas fairy tales written in Swiss German.

Above: The Adliswil Christmas Calendar

From 2005 he wrote columns for the Zürcher Tages Anzeiger, then until 2016 in the newspaper “Züri 2”. 

Portal Kirchgemeinde Zürich

In addition, a number of radio plays were created both under his direction and under his pen, for example, various Schreckmümpfeli (horror stories), but also several CDs with Papa Moll stories produced by SRF. 

In many other radio plays he acts as a speaker.

Wenn die Äpfel reif sind» von Kamil Krejci - Schreckmümpfeli - SRF

Above: Papa Moll and son

  • Felix Mettler (1945 – 2019) was a Swiss writer.

Tiermediziner – Schriftsteller – Philosoph | Tüüfner Poscht – die  Dorfzeitung von Teufen
Above: Felix Mettler

Mettler studied veterinary medicine and worked for several years as a senior assistant at the Institute for Veterinary Pathology at the University of Zürich. 

His first work, The Wild Boar, was translated into English and Italian. 

The Wild Boar by Felix Mettler - First Edition - 1992 - from Adventures  Underground (SKU: 111282)

The novel also served as the basis for the film Death of a Boar (2006) with Joachim Król. 

Tod eines Keilers (TV Movie 2006) - IMDb

The 73-metre high transmission tower Felsenegg – Girstel transmission tower of Swisscom is visible from afar and is around 300 metres from the mountain station of the Felseneggbahn cable car. 

The tower was built in 1959 to broadcast radio and television programs in the region. 

With the completion of the directional tower in 1963, radio and television broadcasting began in Switzerland.

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The Felsenegg station was the most important national technical center for television broadcasting. 

It was the control centre for many private Swiss television stations and allowed national and international distribution.

Above: Felsenegg transmission tower, 1963

 

With the introduction of the REAL system, several transmission systems were distributed to 27 other Swisscom towers. 

As a result, the tower lost its originally outstanding central importance. 

The Felsenegg transmission tower is now integrated in the general network of transmission towers. 

Since fiber optics became popular, conventional broadcasting of radio programs has also declined. 

The tower shone until 10 December 200 as VHF radio from Radio Zürisee before it was switched to the Üetliberg.  

Station logo

In 2020 the Felsenegg Tower was released from the canton’s inventory of historical monuments. 

In 2021 the dilapidated Felsenegg tower will be replaced by a 73-meter high lattice mast tower. 

The old concrete tower is to be dismantled by the end of 2022.

Above: Felsenegg transmission tower seen from Adliswil

Skyguide – the air traffic control company that monitors Swiss airspace and adjacent airspace – has been operating a radio receiving station there since 2005.

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The directional beam tower was built by Zürich architect Edwin Schoch. 

It is 51 meters high and was made of reinforced concrete and clad with aluminum. 

This cladding not only has significant technical advantages, but also has a special play of light that adapts the tower’s color to the changing moods of the day and the weather.

By choosing a consistently slim tower shape, it was possible to avoid a forest fall on the narrow ridge of the Felsenegg. 

A triangular floor plan with cut corners makes the tower light and at the same time allows the large antennas mounted on special platforms outside the tower to be placed in the desired main beam directions without difficulty. 

At the top there is a 22-meter high dipole antenna made of steel. 

The tower has 16 floors and one underground floor in which the operating rooms are located. 

The antennas are mounted on the top five platforms and the roof. 

This includes parabolic and directional antennas. 

The maximum radiated power to the Nods Chasseral transmitter 111.3 kilometers away, as the crow flies, is 10 watts.

Zürich - Der Felsenegg-Betonturm kommt erst 2022 weg – trotzdem ziert ein  zweiter die Albis-Silhouette
Above: Felsenegg transmission tower

The Türlersee (Türler Lake) is located in the Säuliamt in the canton of Zürich, on the border of the communities Aeugst and Hausen am Albis at 643 metres above sea level.

Above: Türler Lake

The Türlersee lies for the most part in the municipality of Aeugst. 

The lake is around 1.4 kilometers long and around 500 meters wide. 

On the southeastern bank there is a campsite and the Türlen Lido. 

Tuerlersee.jpg
Above: Türler Lake, Türlen

Türlen is a hamlet that belongs to the municipality of Hausen am Albis and is located on the Türlersee, west of the Albis in the canton of Zürich.

Türlen has a bus stop where regional buses run to and from Wiedikon, Hausen am Albis, Ebertswil and Affoltern am Albis, a restaurant and the outdoor pool on the Türlersee. 

The only campsite on the Türlersee is near Türlen, where on 26 May 2009, 17 caravans burned out due to a gas explosion and fire.

Sixteen people were injured.

In the north the River Reppisch leaves the lake.

Reppisch kurz vor der Einmündung des Dönibachs
Above: Reppisch River at Dönibach

A landslide on the Aeugsterberg changed the landscape at the end of the last ice age around 10,000 years ago. 

The Aeugsterberg, made up of molasse (sedimentary rock), rose like an island out of the ice masses formed by the Reuss and Linth glaciers. 

Above: Molasse rock

After the glacier melted, the pressure on the mountain flank eased, and at the same time the meltwater streams increased the erosion at the foot of the mountain. 

The slope lost its stability and 60 million cubic meters of rock slid into the valley and dammed the Reppisch to the Türlersee. 

Aeugsterberg with Türlersee
Above: Aeugsterberg and Türlersee

First the Türlersee flowed over the Hexengraben (witches’ pit) towards the Reuss, only later over the Reppisch into the Limmat.

Above: The Hexengraben

With a path around the lake and through the surrounding forests, the lake is a popular local recreation area. 

A lido, as well as other beaches and jetties, offers bathing opportunities. 

First and foremost, the landscape at the Türlersee is a diverse nature and landscape protection area with natural banks, species-rich flat and sloping moors and dry meadows. 

The lake is of cantonal importance as a spawning area for common frogs and toads.

Above: Türlersee

Common frog (Rana temporaria), younger female
Above: Common frog

Common toad (Bufo bufo), female
Above: Common toad

In 1786 a coal seam was discovered north of the Aeugsterberg near Gottert, which led to the construction of the Riedhof Mine, in which coal was mined during the periods of 1786–1814, 1917–1921 and 1942–1947.

Sting – We Work The Black Seam (1986, Vinyl) - Discogs

In 1944 the first ordinance for the protection of the Türlersee was issued, which was adjusted due to the steadily increasing influx of visitors in 1998 and 2001 (Protection Ordinance of December 17, 2001). 

For this reason, intensive recreational use is only possible in the demarcated areas:

In the area of ​​the campsite, near the cantonal road at the northern end of the Lake and at the Hexengraben.

Above: Türlersee

 

The Türlersee was frozen over in January 2009 and January 2012, with an accessible layer of ice.

Because of its sheltered location between Albis and Aeugsterberg, the water of the Türlersee is hardly circulated. 

Therefore, the water circulation in winter is supported by a circulation system.

The Türlersee is easy to reach by public transport:

From the city of Zürich, take tram 14 to Triemli and Postbus 235 or take the S5 Zürich S-Bahn to Affoltern am Albis, then Bus 223 via Hausen am Albis to Türlersee. 

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Above: Zürich tram symbol

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Zurich Transport Association
Above: Logo of the Zürich Transportation Authority

The Türlersee is on the regional cycling route 51 Säuliamt – Schwyz – Zurich – Schwyz. 

There is a legend about the origin of the water:

Where the Türlersee now spreads, there used to be a beautiful farm with fertile fields. 

The owner had an only child, a graceful, dear daughter. 

She caught the eye of the young lord of Schnabel Castle, and he pursued her passionately. 

But the honorable child persistently refused all his promises.

Then the lord of the castle persuaded the father to bring the girl to the Castle at midnight under all sorts of pretenses. 

He opened the gate himself and pulled the reluctant daughter in. 

As he was about to close the gate, she noticed what was being played and uttered a cry of curse on her traitorous father. 

At that moment lightning flashed from the sky and struck her parents’ house. 

She saw how a fiery chasm opened and the neat and once so blessed courtyard with all its fields disappeared into it. 

In the morning, however, there was a lake in its place.

Türlersee4.jpg
Above: Türlersee

The Affoltern district is a district in the southwest of Canton Zürich. 

It lies between the Albis chain and the Reuss with borders in the west and northwest with Canton Aargau, in the south with Canton Zug.

The district is identical to the Knonaueramt region (or Knonauer Amt) and is popularly called Säuliamt . 

The name Zürcher Freiamt , which was also used in earlier centuries, is virtually unknown today.

Affoltern district
Above: Coat of arms of Affoltern

From the beginning of the 15th century until the Reformation, the city of Zürich gradually gained control over the areas between Albis and Reuss. 

Already in 1406 the heirs of John of Hallwyl sold Langnau, Kappel, Rifferswil, Maschwanden, Ottenbach, and portions of today’s Obfeldens to Switzerland’s largest city. 

In the course of the Swiss conquest of Aargau in 1415, Zürich then annexed the Freiamt Affoltern and jurisdiction over Steinhausen, the Maschwanderamt and the Kelleramt. 

During the Old Zürich War (1440 – 1446), the entire region was severely affected by acts of war and was administered by Schwyz, Glarus, Lucerne and Zug between 1443 and 1450. 

Above: Knonau Castle

One of the traditional autonomy rights of the Freiamt was its own jurisdiction. 

The courts handed down from the Habsburg era (1173 – 1415) were Rifferswil, Affoltern am Albis and Berikon. 

Above: Old courthouse, Affoltern am Albis

The Freiamtsgemeinde met in the Mettmenstein church. 

It met for the last time on 26 March 1795, but had to be moved to Rüteli near today’s train station because the church was too small for the large number of visitors. 

Above: Reformed Church, Mettmenstetten

From 1507 to 1512, the Zürich government combined the abovementioned areas to form the Knonau bailiff and standardized the legal system. 

The centralization efforts of the city of Zürich’s guild regime provoked the resistance of the Ämtler population, for example in the Waldmann trade in 1489, in the Wädenswil uprising in 1646 (a tax revolt in Wädenswil and in the Knonaueramt, which Zürich condemned with military actions, executions and heavy fines), in Ämtlerhandel (1794 – 1795), and in the Bock War (1804). 

Wädenswil with Lake Zurich
Above: Wädenswil and the Zürichsee

This last uprising ended the Knonaueramt with the disarmament and military occupation of the villages, imprisonment and fines as well as the execution under martial law of two revolutionaries, Jakob Schneebeli from Affltern am Albis and Heinrich Häberling from Knonau.

Their names (together with those of the also executed Hans Jakob Willi from Horgen and Jakob Kleinert from Schönenberg) are immortalized on a memorial stone at Affoltern train station.

Above: Affoltern Station

Hans Jakob Willi was born in Horgen as the son of the shoemaker Johann Jakob Willi and his wife Anna Maria Leuthold.

After completing his apprenticeship as a shoemaker in his father’s workshop, Willi started working as a mercenary in Spain and France at the age of 15. 

After escaping from British captivity, he returned to Horgen in 1801. 

On 28 March 1803 he married Anna Anton von Horgen.

Horgen - Lake Zurich 2010-06-01 17-34-22.JPG
Above: Horgen

The Mediation Constitution of 1803 shifted the balance of power in favor of the city of Zürich. 

File: Bonaparte - Acte de Médiation, 1803.pdf
Above: The Mediation Constitution

Willi, with his war experience, became the leader of the rebels in the countryside. 

The battles were named Bockenkrieg (Bock War) after the Bocken inn in Arn bei Horgen. 

Landgut Bocken – Wikipedia
Above: Bocken Inn, Arn bei Horgen

Three warships were used to bombard Horgen from Lake Zürich. 

The insurgents won the battle, but Willi had to retire injured. 

The uprising now collapsed very quickly.

After the battle at the Bocken, Hans Jakob Willi stayed in hiding until he was caught in Stäfa after seven days. 

An unconstitutional court martial condemned him despite the intervention of Napoleon Bonaparte. 

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

On 25 April 1804 at 2 p.m. Willi was executed in Zürich along with two co-defendants.

Old town Zurich
Above: Old city, Zürich

We are free Swiss, citizens with equal rights throughout. 

If our government does not want to hear the voice of the people, it is tyrannical.

Hans Jakob Willi

Above: Willi memorial plaque, Horgen

In 1798 the authorities of the Helvetic Republic created the district of Mettmenstetten, which included the core area of ​​the Landvogtei Knonau, as well as Aesch, Birmensdorf, Oberurdorf, Wettswil, Stallikon and Bonstetten. 

Langnau was assigned to the Hirgen district on this occasion. 

Steinhausen came to Canton Zug and Canton Baden, which in turn became part of the new Aaargau in 1803. 

In its current boundaries, the district emerged as the Knonau Oberamt after the end of the Mediation Constitution in 1814. 

The district capital was relocated in 1837 from the former bailiff’s seat of Knonau to the more centrally located Affoltern am Albis. 

This gave the district its current name.

Affoltern am Albis coat of arms
Above: Coat of arms of Affoltern am Albis

After the turmoil and crises of the beginning of the century, a strong industrialization set in around the middle of the 19th century, which also found its expression in transport technology with the opening of the Zürich – Zug railway in 1864. 

The opening of National Highway 4 in 2009 marked another important turning point, as Affoltern am Albis could now be reached from Zürich and Zug in less than 15 minutes. 

In the 1980s a regional protest movement postponed the construction of the motorway for more than twenty years with growth-critical and ecological arguments, but ultimately could not stop the suburbanization of large parts of the district.

In 2012 almost 50,000 people lived in the Affoltern district and there were 16,000 jobs. 

In the last ten years, the district has recorded a population growth of 16.1% (compared to 14%, the cantonal average). 

Above: Affoltern train and bus station

Hausen am Albis is located in the south of the canton of Zürich in the Affoltern district, on the south side of the Albis. 

The community, located in the upper Jonental Valley, consists of the villages of Hausen am Albis and Ebertswil and the hamlets of Türlen, Vollenweid, Tüfenbach, Hinter-, Mittel- and Oberalbis, Husertal, Hirzwangen and Schweikhof. 

The municipality extends from Sihlbrugg to the Türlersee. 

This makes Hausen am Albis the largest municipality in the district with a total of 13.64 km². 

The highest point in the municipality is 916 metres above sea level. 

Bürglen is the lowest point at 532 metres above sea level. 

Hausen am Albis is located between the cities of Zürich and Zug.

Above: Hausen am Albis

Hausen am Albis was first mentioned in a document in 869 as Huson, today’s district of Heisch in 1184 as Heinsche

During this time the lords of Hausen were the Barons of Eschenbach. 

It was they who built the Schnabelburg on the Albis ridge in 1150 and founded the Cistercian Abbey of Kappel in 1185 . 

Kappel Monastery today
Above: Kappel Monastery

The Schnabelburg is the ruin of a hilltop castle on the beak-like elevation north of the Schnabellücke near the village of Hausen am Albis.

In 1185 Walter I, Baron von Eschenbach, named himself after the newly built castle. 

Above: Eschenbach coat of arms

However, it is not known for sure whether it was really the same castle, the ruin of which is known today. 

Archaeological investigations of the castle complex have shown that the castle was probably built in the 13th century, and that it was built very hastily. 

However, no traces have been found in the vicinity of the ruins that are visible today, which would suggest that another castle was built first.

In 1218 the last Duke of the Zähringen family, with whom the castle owners were connected, died, and the economic decline of the family of the Lords of Eschenbach-Schnabelburg began with Berchtold II.

Later the coat of arms (red eagle on gold) in the new town hall of Freiburg

Above: Zähringen coat of arms, New City Hall, Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

In 1270 von Eschenbach became a friend of Rudolf I von Habsburg, the new lord of the castle of Schnabelburg. 

Berchtold II fought with the Habsburg in the decisive battle – one of the largest knight battles in Europe – on the Marchfeld (26 August) against Ottokar von Böhmen in 1278. 

Above: The iron and gold king of Bohemia, Ottokar II Přemysl (1232 – 1278)

Above: Memorial stone of the battle, Dürnkrutfeld, Austria

It can be assumed that the Eschenbach knight fell in the decisive battle near Göllheim in 1298, as he disappeared from documents at that time.

Above: Göllheim, Germany

A son of Berchtold, Walter von Eschenbach, helped murder King Albrecht I of Habsburg in 1308. 

After that, he was given the imperial ban. 

Above: Equestrian seal of Albrecht I (1255 – 1308)

In August 1309, the Habsburgs then besieged and conquered the Schnabelburg in revenge for the regicide. 

According to archaeological findings, the castle was either not destroyed during the siege or was later rebuilt.

In 1955, Hugo Schneider carried out excavation work and conservation measures at the ruins.

Schnabelburg ruins (May 2007)
Above: Ruins of Schnabel Castle

In 1309 Eschenbach rule was ended by the destruction of the Schnabelburg, because Walther von Eschenbach was involved in the murder of King Albrecht. 

Albrecht I was the first legitimate son of the Roman – German King Rudolf I of Habsburg, born in wedlock, from his first marriage to Gertrud Anna von Hohenberg (died 1281). 

His older half-brother Albrecht von Schenkenberg, who received the Grafschaft Löwenstein from his father, was born out of wedlock. 

His motto were “Fugam victoria nescit” (“The victory knows no flight.”) and “Quod optimum idem jucundissimum” (“The best is the most pleasant.”)

From 1273 he officiated as Landgrave in the Landgraviate of Upper Alsace. 

After the 1278 victory in the Battle of Marchfeld over King Ottokar Premysl of Bohemia, he was appointed by his father in May 1281, when he left the conquered Vienna again, as imperial administrator over the imperial fiefs of the Duchy of Austria and the Duchy of Styria. 

The office had been vacant in the turmoil of the Austrian Interregnum since June 1278 because the Wittelsbach Heinrich XIII, had defected from Bavaria to the enemy.

On 17 December 1282, at the Reichstag of Augsburg, he was appointed Duke of Austria and Styria together with his brother Rudolf.

One year later on 1 June 1283 in the Treaty of Rheinfelden, he ruled alone in these rights. 

Above: King Albrecht I sends a messenger to Pope Boniface

Rudolf was to be compensated for this with other territories in southwest Germany, but this did not happen until his death in 1290. 

Albrecht quickly made himself unpopular with his policy of pushing back the natives through his Swabian clientele, especially the Lords of Walsee. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Lords of Walsee

In 1291 – 1292, the Landsberger Bund revolted in Styria, against whom Albrecht was able to quickly assert himself. 

Deutschlandsberg Castle (1681)
Above: Deutschlandsberg Castle (1681), Styria, Austria, from whence the Landsperger Bund (conspiracy of nobles) was derived

In 1295 the Austrian nobility rose up as well. 

In Vienna, too, Ottokar Přemysl remained much more popular for a long time – not least because of economic relations with the Bohemian region. 

After all, Vienna got a new city charter in 1296.

City and state coats of arms
Above: Coat of arms of Vienna (Wien), Austria (Österreich)

Rudolf I tried to make Albrecht co-king during his own lifetime in order to make the royal dignity in the House of Habsburg hereditary. 

Southwest side of the Habsburg
Above: Habsburg Castle, Habsburg, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

However, the Electors, especially the Count Palatine (officials and representatives of the King or Emperor) and the clerical Electors, did not allow this to happen. 

An elector was one of the originally seven, later nine and finally ten highest-ranking princes of the Holy Roman Empire (modern Germany), who had had the sole right to elect the Roman (German) King since the 13th century. 

This royal title was traditionally associated with the right to be crowned Emperor by the Pope.

Above: The Codex Balduineus (1340) contains the first known pictorial representation of the college of electors: Here the electors elect Heinrich of Luxembourg (1278 – 1313) as King. 
The Electors are, recognizable by their coats of arms (from left to right), the Archbishops of Cologne, Mainz and Trier, the Count Palatine of the Rhine, the Duke of Saxony, the Margrave of Brandenburg and the King of Bohemia, who was actually not present when Heinrich was elected.

In 1290 Rudolf wanted to put his son on the throne of Hungary, which after the assassination of Ladislaus IV was regarded as a reverted fiefdom, but his death in 1291 thwarted this plan.

Above: King of Hungary and Croatia Ladislaus IV (1262 – 1290)

As Rudolf’s successor, Adolf von Nassau was elected the new Roman (German) king in 1292. 

Above: King Adolf von Nassau (1250 – 1298)

In the following years Albrecht hardly intervened in imperial politics, as he was bound by revolts by various nobles in his Austrian lands. 

In 1295 he was seriously poisoned, the reason for which remained unclear. 

Maybe the kitchen had processed slightly spoiled food or an assassin had mixed poison in the food. 

In any case, Albrecht collapsed from convulsions. 

His doctors gave him laxatives. 

After the colic, when he got angry, he lost consciousness and, faced with the fear of death, was hung upside down on both legs so that the poison could flow out of his body. 

The patient survived this procedure, but one eye was destroyed.

Above: Statue of Albrecht I, Army History Museum, Vienna, Austria

When Adolf was deposed again in 1298, Albrecht was elected as his successor as King on 23 June 1298. 

In the Knight’s Battle of Göllheim (Battle of the Hasenbühel) on 2 July 1298, Adolf fell while fighting the Habsburgs. 

On 27 July, Albrecht was elected a second time and then crowned King in Aachen on 24 August 1298. 

Above: Modern Aachen, Germany

On his first court day in Nuremberg in the same year he enfeoffed (gave) his sons – Rudolf, Fredrich the Beautiful and Leopold the Glorious – Austria and Styria. 

Above: Stained glass depiction of Rudolf I (1282 – 1307), St. Stephan’s Church, Vienna

Above: Seal of Frederick the Beautiful and his wife Isabella, Duke (#1) and King’s seal of Frederick (#5), Queen’s seal of Isabella (#9). Friedrich is shown enthroned frontally on the king’s seal with a crown and scepter. His feet rest on a lion.

Above: Stained glass depiction of Leopold I (1290 – 1326), Königsfelden Monastery

Through a marriage connection with France, Albrecht I achieved peace with Philip IV the Fair, with whom he had previously been in dispute over the course of the border. 

Above: French King Philippe IV (1268 – 1314)

Albrecht also reached an agreement with Wenceslaus II (Vaclav) of Bohemia in the dispute over rule over Poland:

The Bohemian king added the most important parts of the recently re-established kingdom to a new collapse into his territory, but recognized Albrecht’s suzerainty onwards. 

Above: Wenceslas II (1271 1305) with the Bohemian and Polish crowns, illustration from the Chronicon Aulae Regiae

Opponents of Habsburg power, however, remained the Rhenish Electors, including Pope Boniface VIII.

The papal approbation was only obtained in 1303 in return for far-reaching concessions which severely restricted the King’s power, especially in Italy, and which could have been understood as an oath of subjection towards the papacy. 

However, Albrecht refused the coronation offered by Boniface. 

Above: Pope Boniface VIII (né Benedetto Caetani) (1235 – 1303)

In 1304 Albrecht and his son Rudolf moved together against Wenceslaus II, who, after the death of Andreas III the Venetian, his son Wenceslaus III became the Hungarian king. 

Above: King of Hungary and Croatia Andreas III the Venetian (1265 – 1301)

Above: King of Hungary, Bohemia and Poland Wenceslaus III (1289 – 1306)

Since the Pope would have liked to see another Italian on the Hungarian throne in the form of the Neapolitan Prince Karl Robert, he asked Albrecht for help. 

Albrecht made the strangest demands on Wenceslaus II. 

When this did not fulfill them, the imperial ban was imposed on him. 

Wenceslaus then transferred the Hungarian crown jewels from Ofen to Prague. 

Above: King of Hungary and Croatia Karl I (1288 – 1342)

Above: The Hungarian Crown Jewels

On the following campaign Albrecht and Rudolf Kuttenberg besieged Kutná Hora, the silver mine in Bohemia. 

Their Cuman auxiliaries committed terrible atrocities in the country. 

At the beginning of winter, hunger broke out in their army and they withdrew.

Above: modern Kutná Hora, Czech Republic

A political unification of Central Europe under the leadership of the Habsburgs seemed within reach. 

Albrecht succeeded after the death of the childless King Wenceslaus III on 4 August 1306, who himself became king in Bohemia after the death of his father in 1305, installed his son Rudolf as King of Bohemia. 

But then the Bohemian estates rebelled and decided to depose the king. 

Albrecht quickly forced them to recognize his sovereignty.

However, 1307 brought a serious setback for the Habsburg hegemonic plans. 

After Rudolf’s early death, Heinrich von Carinthia from Meinhardingen became the new King of Bohemia. 

Above: Seal of Heinrich von Carinthia (1265 – 1335)

In connection with a controversial reverted fiefdom in Thuringia and Meißen, Albrecht also lost the Battle of Lucka against the sons of Albrecht the Degenerate from the House of Wettin. 

Above: Coinage of Albrecht the Degenerate (1288–1307), Margrave of Meißen and Landgrave of Thuringia

When King Albrecht invaded with a large army, the Margraves Dietrich IV of Lausitz and Friedrich I of Meißen fought him, at the head of armed citizens and peasants as well as Braunschweig cavalry bands, Albrecht suffered a complete defeat on 31 May 1307.

Above: Friedrich I the Bitten (1257 – 1323) and Dietrich IV (1260 – 1307)

Above: Wettinger Fountain commemorating the Battle, Lucka, Germany

In the dispute over the customs posts of German princes, Albrecht soon cracked down on them until the archbishops and Rudolf, the Count Palatine near the Rhine, surrendered. 

However, Pope Boniface stood in the way of breaking up the Kurkollegium. 

Unrest in Swabia, Baden, Alsace and Switzerland also increased again during this period. 

Peace remained elusive.

Above: The Electors in the royal election in 1308:
From left – Peter von Mainz (1245 – 1320), Balduin von Trier (1285 – 1354) and Rudolf I (1274 – 1319)




Albrecht was murdered in 1308 near Windisch, now in Switzerland, not far from his ancestral castle. 

The murderers were his nephew Johann von Schwaben – who was nicknamed Parricida (relative murderer) because of his deed – Baron Rudolf von Wart (1274 – 1309), Baron Rudolf von Balm, Baron Walter von Eschenbach and Baron Konrad von Tegerfelden. 

Above: Johann Parricuda (1290 – 1313)

Above: Baron Rudolf von Wart’s wife Gertrud von Balm (1286 – 1322) pleads with Albrecht’s daughter Agnes of Hungary (1281 – 1364) for her husband’s life, by August Weckesser

The exact course of the murder is presented differently by the chroniclers. 

Albrecht was probably on the way from Baden to his wife in Rheinfelden. 

In the morning, Duke Johann had claimed his inheritance at Stein Castle – as he had often done before – which led to a scandal. 

Above: Johann Parricida and his accomplices murder Albrecht after crossing the Reuss River.
In the background are the cities of Brugg and Königsfelden as well as Habsburg Castle. 
Coloured pen drawing, The Chronicle of 95 Dominions (1480), City Library, Bern

Baden Stein 9664.jpg
Above: Stein Castle, Aargau Canton, Switzerland

According to the chronicler Matthias von Neuenburg (1295 – 1364) the first sword cut that pierced Albrecht’s neck was received from his nephew Johann, then Rudolf von Wart pierced him with his sword, while Rudolf von Balm split the King’s skull in two. 

Johann was the son of Albrecht’s early deceased brother Rudolf II, who had renounced the regency in Austria in the Treaty of Rheinfelden and had become Duke of Swabia, Alsace and Aargau. 

Above: The murder of Albrecht in Königsfelden, Windisch, Switzerland, 1308

According to Chronicle reports, the failure to pay Johann in compensation was the main motive. 

Depending on the sources, Johann’s blood lust is also given as the motive for murder.

The successor as Duke was Albrecht’s son Friedrich the Fair, but he did not succeed as King. 

The royal dignity went to the House of Luxembourg with Henrich VII (1278 – 1313), where it remained until 1437 – interrupted by the governments of Ludwig of Bavaria (1282 – 1347) and Ruprecht of the Palatinate.

Above: Statue of Heinrich VII, Pisa Cathedral, Pisa, Italy

Above: Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, Frauenkirche, Munich, Germany

Above: Ruprecht (1352 – 1410) with his wife Elisabeth von Hohenzollern-Nürnberg (1358 – 1411) in a miniature copy of a now-lost mural in Heidelberg Castle, Germany

King Albrecht was first buried in the Wettingen monastery (in today’s Switzerland). 

Aerial view of the Wettingen monastery
Above: Wettingen Monastery

In 1309, at the instigation of Henrich VII, his body was transferred to Speyer, where he was buried side by side with his former rival Adolf von Nassau in the Speyer Cathedral.

Speyer - Dom - view of the east facade.jpg
Above: Speyer Cathedral, Speyer, Germany

As a result of Eschenbach’s treachery Hausen am Albis was subordinated to the Hallwylers, who ceded it to the city of Zürich in 1406.

Coat of arms of Hausen am Albis
Above: Coat of arms of Hausen am Albis

It is said that the storyline of The Game of Thrones franchise was inspired by England’s Wars of the Roses, but I submit that the story of Albrecht I and his assassination is also worthy of dramatic accounts.

Main title card for Game of Thrones

Kappel am Albis is first mentioned in 1185 as de Capella.

The settlement was founded in 1185 as a Cistercian monastery which today houses a seminar centre, hotel, cafe and a restaurant.

Das Kloster von Süden gesehen
Above: Kappel am Albis

It was the location of the Wars of Kappel in 1529 and 1531, during the turmoil that accompanied the Reformation of Huldrych Zwingli.

Above: Huldrych Zwingli

A monument to Zwingli is located nearby at the hamlet of Näfenhäuser, marking the spot where he met his fatal end.

Above: Zwingli Monument, Näfenhäuser

In 1185 the Monastery was founded by the Barons of Eschenbach – Scnabelburg and confirmed by the Bishop of Konstanz Hermann II. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

A chapel was available to the first abbot Wilhelm and his monks to build a Cistercian monastery. 

The mother monastery of Kappel was Altenryf (Hauterive) Abbey (Freiburg Canton). 

Hauterive Abbey
Above: Hauterive Abbey, Posieux, Canton Freiburg, Switzerland

Through Pope Innocent III, the monastery received the Privilegium commune Cisterciense and it was placed under the protection of the Papacy in 1211.

Above: Pope Innocent III (né Lotario dei Conti di Segni) (1161 – 1216), San Benedetto Monastery, Subiaco, Italy

Until the end of the 14th century, the Monastery received donations from the founding family and other noble families, especially in the Knouauer Amt, in Zugerland (today’s Aargau), in Luzern Canton, on Lake Zürich (Zürichsee) and in the Zürich Lowlands (Zürich Unterland). 

There were also isolated lands in central Switzerland. 

The Monastery got into financial difficulties through the social development, especially the emerging money economy, the upswing of the cities and through the competition of the mendicant orders. 

In addition, the Monastery came more and more under the influence of secular lords, especially after the assassination of King Albrecht in 1308.

Above: Kappel Monastery

In 1344 the Monastery concluded a permanent alliance with the city of Zug in 1344 and a similar one with Zürich in 1403.

Through these alliances, the Monastery got between the fronts in the Old Zürich War (1440 – 1446) and was plundered by the Confederates in 1443. 

On 15 January 1493, a fire devastated the convent building, which the then Abbot Ulrich had rebuilt. 

Due to his dissolute lifestyle, Abbot Ulrich was forced to resign in 1508.

Cistercian monastery Kappel am Albis

Above: Kappel Monastery

A new spirit arrived under Abbot Ulrich’s successor, Wolfgang Joner. 

In 1523 he summoned Heinrich Bullinger, who was only nineteen, to Kappel, where he taught the monks and young men from the area as a private tutor. 

Through Bullinger, the teachings of the Reformation found their way to Kappel, and so pictures (icons) were removed from the Monastery Church on 9 March 1525. 

Holy Mass was abolished on 4 September of the same year. 

A year later, on 29 March 1526, the monks celebrated the Lord’s Supper for the first time according to the Reformed order and took off their robes. 

Many left the Monastery and turned to a trade or became preachers. 

The convent finally handed the Monastery over to the city of Zürich in 1527. 

Wolfgang Joner, Heinrich Bullinger and four other men stayed in Kappel and continued to run the school as a boarding school for boys. 

The previous monastery church became the parish church of Kappel. 

Above: Statue of Heinrich Bullinger, Grossmünster, Zürich

During the First Kappel War in 1529, Kappel became the scene of the June deployment of the Reformed and Catholic troops, which came to a peaceful end with the legendary Kappel milk soup.

Above: The Milk Soup Stone Memorial, Kappel am Albis

At the end of June 1529, the Zürich troops marched against the central Swiss cantons. 

In this First Kappel War, thanks to the mediation of the neutral towns, a fratricidal war among the Confederates was prevented.

According to the reports, the common footmen of the two armies used the time while the leaders were negotiating to fraternize and put a large saucepan on a fire near Kappel am Albis, exactly on the border between the two cantons. 

The people of Zug are said to have contributed the milk and the people of Zurich the bread for a milk soup, which was then eaten by both armies together.

Today the “Milchsuppenstein” (milk soup stone) is located on a hill southwest of Ebertswil.

The large pot from which everyone ate together was of great symbolic value for the later historiography and identification of Switzerland.

Above: Kappel milk soup

In memory of this event, Kappeler milk soup is still served today when a dispute can be settled through negotiation, for example by Federal Councilor Pascal Couchpin at the conclusion of the St. Gallen cultural property dispute in 2006. 

Above: Pascal Couchepin

It was entirely different on 11 October 1531, when the Zurich reformer Zwingli was killed in the second battle near Kappel.

Zwingli's death at the Battle of Kappel, 11 October 1531(from Spamers  Illustrierte Weltgeschichte, 1894, 5[1], 302, 303) Stock Illustration |  Adobe Stock
Above: The death of Zwingli

Wie «Zwinglis Helm» eine katholische Trophäe wurde - watson
Above: Zwingli’s helmet

After the Reformation, the Monastery remained Zürich’s domain. 

Above: Kappel Monastery, 1741

From 1834 the buildings were used for social purposes, and since 1983 by the Zürcher Landeskirche (Zürich Canton Church) as a seminar hotel and educational center called the House of Silence and Encounter

Since 2008 it has been called Kloster Kappel again. 

The Monastery has been renovated since 2009. 

The Monastery Church shows a glass painting work by the Swiss graphic artist and painter Max Hunziker in the choir .

The Kappel Monastery Association (formerly the Kappelerhof Association) is the owner of the Kappel Monastery domain (real estate, land, forest). 

The 14 association members are the 13 parishes of the Affoltern district and the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zürich. 

The church and rectory belong to the Canton of Zürich.

Kloster Kappel - YouTube
Above: Kappel Monastery

As personalities go, Zwingli is not the sole person to get recognized when one speaks of Kappel am Albis.

Coat of arms of Kappel am Albis
Above: Coat of arms of Kappel am Albis

Josias Simler (1530 – 1576), Swiss Reformed theologian and historian, known among other things for his works on Swiss regional studies and history, was born in Kappel am Albis.

In 1544 Josias Simler went to Zürich to study under his godfather and sponsor Heinrich Bullinger. 

In 1546 he continued his studies in theology, languages ​​and natural sciences in Basel, and from 1547 to 1549 in arithmetic and geometry in Strasbourg. 

He then completed his theology studies in Zürich, worked as a pastor and occasionally as a mathematics teacher for Swiss physician/polymath/encyclopedist Conrad Gessner (1516 – 1565). 

Above: Conrad Gesner

In 1552 he became professor at the Carolinum for instruction in the New Testament in Zürich and in 1560 for theology. 

In that year he temporarily took over the chair of the dismissed Theodor Bibliander (1505 – 1564), who represented the views of Erasmus of Rotterdam and not those of the Reformed Church.

Above: Theodor Bibliander

Above: Desiderius Erasmus (1466 – 1536)

From 1555 he began to re-publish Conrad Gessner’s Bibliotheca universalis

Bibliotheca Universalis by Conrad Gesner | INFO 653 Knowledge Organization
Above: Bibliotheca Universalis

In his work De Alpibus Commentarius (Commentary of the Alps)(1574), the first work that dealt extensively with the Alps, he collected all information about the mountains from the works of various other authors with comments from his own experience. 

In the process, he developed new insights into the nature of avalanches, the difference between firn and ice, the low temperature at high altitudes and the plant endism in the Alps, in this the oldest description of the Alps in Latin.

In his childhood and youth in Kappel am Albis, Simler had the panorama of the Glarus, Uri and Bernese Alps on his doorstep. 

Above: Kappel Monastery and the Alps

Later he was unable to travel because of his gout. 

He had to draw his information from literary sources.

The “Commentary of the Alps” is a first attempt to give an overview of the natural and cultural history of the Alps and their individual mountain ranges. 

It is a collection of experiences from Swiss scientists that they personally gained in the Alps. 

An abundance of quotes from the classical tradition underlines the humanistic orientation of the text.

Above: De Alpibus Commentarius (1574)

Simler also wrote other works on Swiss cultural studies, such as De Republica Helvetiorum (1548) (abstract of the Chronicle by Johannes Stumpf: 1500 – 1578) or Vallesiae Descriptio

Above: Swiss historian Johannes Stumpf

He also advised Ulrich Campell (1510 – 1582) in formulating his Raetiae alpestris descriptio Topographica (Topographical Description of Alpine Raetia) (1573). 

Ulrici Campelli Raetiae Alpestris Topographica Descriptio: Buy Ulrici  Campelli Raetiae Alpestris Topographica Descriptio by Campell Ulrich at Low  Price in India | Flipkart.com

The Simler Snowfield in Antarctica is named in his honour. 

Above: Location of the Simler Snowfield, Antarctica

I tour the Monastery of Kappel am Albis, sit in its cafeteria and dine on soup and salad and cola, and I make notes as I try to assess my feelings at this, the final end of this unreligious pilgrim’s progress.

Kloster Kappel :: EN
Above: Descent into the cloister cafeteria

I have followed the life of one man, from his birthplace to the spot where he fell, and now I feel I must take stock of this man and decide for myself what is my opinion of this man who has garnered so much respect for his role in the Reformation in Switzerland.

Above: Zwingli statue, Zwinglikirche, Berlin, Germany

I cannot claim to be wise in the understanding of Christianity, for it seems to be too often that they who profess to be Christian fail too often to act in a manner which Christ would have.

Above: Crucifixion of Christ, by Diego Velázquez 

In fairness, I suspect that there are Buddhists who do not live in the way Buddha intended or Muslims who do not practice the teachings of Muhammad.

color manuscript illustration of Buddha teaching the Four Noble Truths, Nalanda, Bihar, India
Above: The Buddha teaching the Four Noble Truths, Sanskrit manuscript, Nalanda, Bihar, India

Above: The Kaaba, Mecca, Saudi Arabia – the direction of prayer and destination of pilgrimage for Muslims

Religious affiliation checked on a census poll does not mean religious practice.

If that were so then Trump would not have been the candidate of choice for American evangelical Christians.

Official White House presidential portrait. Head shot of Trump smiling in front of the U.S. flag, wearing a dark blue suit jacket with American flag lapel pin, white shirt, and light blue necktie.
Above: Donald Trump

Trump went to Sunday school and was confirmed in 1959 at the First Presbyterian Church in Jamaica, Queens, New York City.

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In the 1970s, his parents joined the Marble Collegiate Church in Manhattan.

In 2015, the Church stated Trump “is not an active member“.

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Above: Marble Collegiate Church, Manhattan, New York City

In 2019, he appointed his personal pastor, televangelist Paula White, to the White House Office of Public Liaison.

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Above: Paula White

In 2020, he said he identified as a non-denominational Christian.

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Above: The cross symbol of Christianity

On 1 June 2020, federal law enforcement officials used batons, rubber bullets, pepper spray projectiles, stun grenades, and smoke to remove a largely peaceful crowd of protesters from Lafayette Square, outside the White House.

Trump then walked to St. John’s Episcopal Church, where protesters had set a small fire the night before.

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Above: St. John’s Episcopal Church, Washington DC

He posed for photographs holding a Bible upside down, with senior administration officials later joining him in photos.

Above: The “Christian” Donald Trump

Trump said on 3 June that the protesters were cleared because “they tried to burn down the church on 31 May and almost succeeded“, describing the Church as “badly hurt“.

Above: George Floyd protest, Washington DC, 31 May 2020

Religious leaders condemned the treatment of protesters and the photo opportunity itself.

Many retired military leaders and defense officials condemned Trump’s proposal to use the US military against anti-police brutality protesters.

Above: George Floyd protest, Washington DC, 1 June 2020

The chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, General Mark A. Milley, later apologized for accompanying Trump on the walk and thereby “creating the perception of the military involved in domestic politics.”

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Above: The walk from the White House to St. John’s, 1 June 2020 – Milley is in military uniform

As a candidate and as President, Trump frequently made false statements in public speeches and remarks to an extent unprecedented in American politics.

His falsehoods became a distinctive part of his political identity.

Trump’s false and misleading statements were documented by fact checkers, including at the Washington Post, which tallied a total of 30,573 false or misleading statements made by Trump over his four-year term.

Trump’s falsehoods increased in frequency over time, rising from about 6 false or misleading claims per day in his first year as president to 16 per day in his second year to 22 per day in his third year to 39 per day in his final year.

He reached 10,000 false or misleading claims 27 months into his term, 20,000 false or misleading claims 14 months later, and 30,000 false or misleading claims five months later.

Many of Trump’s comments and actions have been considered racist.

He has repeatedly denied this, asserting:

I am the least racist person there is anywhere in the world.

In national polling, about half of respondents say that Trump is racist.

A greater proportion believe that he has emboldened racists.

Several studies and surveys have found that racist attitudes fueled Trump’s political ascent and have been more important than economic factors in determining the allegiance of Trump voters. 

Racist and Islamophobic attitudes are a strong indicator of support for Trump.

Trump’s comment on the 2017 Unite the Right Rally in Charlottesville, Virginia — that there were “very fine people on both sides” — was widely criticized as implying a moral equivalence between the white supremacist demonstrators and the counter-protesters at the rally.

PolitiFact | In Context: Donald Trump's 'very fine people on both sides'  remarks (transcript)
Above: Donald Trump

In a January 2018 Oval Office meeting to discuss immigration legislation, Trump reportedly referred to El Salvador, Haiti, Honduras, and African nations as “shithole countries“.

His remarks were condemned as racist.

Flag of El Salvador
Above: Flag of El Salvador

Flag of Haiti
Above: Flag of Haiti

Flag of Honduras
Above: Flag of Honduras

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Above: Africa (in green)

In July 2019, Trump tweeted that four Democratic congresswomen — all minorities, three of whom are native-born Americans — should “go back” to the countries they “came from“.

He was referring to Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, Ayanna Pressley, Ilhan Omar and Rashida Tlaib.

This group is known collectively as “the Squad“.

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Above: Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez

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Above: Congresswoman Ayanna Pressley

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Above: Congresswoman Ilhan Omar

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Above: Congresswoman Rashida Tlaib

So interesting to see “Progressive” Democrat Congresswomen, who originally came from countries whose governments are a complete and total catastrophe, the worst, most corrupt and inept anywhere in the world (if they even have a functioning government at all), now loudly and viciously telling the people of the United States, the greatest and most powerful nation on Earth, how our government is to be run.

Why don’t they go back and help fix the totally broken and crime infested places from which they came?

Then come back and show us how it is done.

These places need your help badly.

You can’t leave fast enough.

I’m sure that (Speaker of the House) Nancy Pelosi would be very happy to quickly work out free travel arrangements!

Donald J. Trump (@realDonaldTrump on Twitter, 14 July 2019)

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Above: Logo for Twitter

Two days later the House of Representatives voted 240–187, mostly along party lines, to condemn his “racist comments“.

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Above: House of Representatives Speaker Congresswoman Nancy Pelosi

White nationalist publications and social media sites praised his remarks, which continued over the following days.

Trump continued to make similar remarks during his 2020 campaign.

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Trump has a history of insulting and belittling women when speaking to media and on social media.

He made lewd comments, demeaned women’s looks, and called them names like ‘dog‘, ‘crazed‘, ‘crying lowlife‘, ‘face of a pig‘, or ‘horseface‘.

In October 2016, two days before the second presidential debate, a 2005 “hot mike” Access Hollywood recording surfaced in which Trump was heard bragging about kissing and groping women without their consent, saying:

When you’re a star, they let you do it, you can do anything… grab ’em by the pussy.”

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The incident’s widespread media exposure led to Trump’s first public apology during the campaign and caused outrage across the political spectrum.

At least 26 women have publicly accused Trump of sexual misconduct as of September 2020, including his then-wife Ivana.

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Above: Ivana Marie Trump (née Zelníčková)

Jill Harth Speaks Out, Stands by Story of Being Sexually Assaulted by  Donald Trump | WNYC News | WNYC
Above: Jill Harth

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Above: E. Jean Carroll

Summer Zervos defamation lawsuit: Judge allows lawsuit against Trump to  proceed - CNNPolitics
Above: Summer Zervos

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Above: Alva Johnson

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Above: Jessica Leeds

Former Model: Trump Reached Up My Skirt
Above: Kristin Anderson

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Above: Lisa Boyne

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Above: Cathy Heller

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Above: Temple Taggart McDowell

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Above: Amy Dorris

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Above: Karena Virginia

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Above: Mindy McGillivray

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Above: Juliet Huddy

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Above: Ninni Laaksonen

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Above: Cassandra Searles

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Above: Faith Daniels

There were allegations of rape, violence, being kissed and groped without consent, looking under women’s skirts, and walking in on naked women.

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Above: Logo of the Miss Universe beauty pagents

In 2016, he denied all accusations, calling them “false smears” and alleged there was a conspiracy against him.

Amazon.com: All the President's Women: Donald Trump and the Making of a  Predator eBook : Levine, Barry, El-Faizy, Monique: Kindle Store

There is very little that is Christ-like about this so-called “Christian”.

I am in no way suggesting that Zwingli resembled in any way the former US President, save in one respect.

Acting in a very un-Christ-like manner unbecoming to a Christian…..

Certainly Zwingli was an educated man and scholarship is something I deeply respect.

His studies led him to see the need for reform in the Catholic Church and this impulse to improve current systems is a wise and necessary impulse anywhere at all times.

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City –  the largest church in the world and a symbol of the Catholic Church

There is room for improvement in all things, though that being said I do not believe in simply progress for the sake of progress.

Changes should be considered not just for their potential profit but as well soberly assessed as to the cost of their consequences.

And it is here that the Reformation erred.

Certainly the Church was at this time truly a corrupt institution that the faithful found difficult to swear fealty towards.

But in freeing themselves from the rule of Rome they allowed the powerful within their groups to dominate them with the same sort of abuse from which they had fought to free themselves.

Voltaire wrote about Calvin, Luther and Zwingli:

If they condemned celibacy in the priests and opened the gates of the convents, it was only to turn all society into a convent.

Shows and entertainments were expressly forbidden by their religion, and for more than two hundred years there was not a single musical instrument allowed in the city of Geneva.

They condemned auricular confession, but they enjoined a public one.

And in Switzerland, Scotland and Geneva, it was performed the same as penance.

Portrait by Nicolas de Largillière, c. 1724
Above: French writer François-Marie Arouet (aka Voltaire) (1694 – 1778)

The Church dictated when a man should eat and when he should restrain himself from eating.

Ulrich Zwingli was a pastor in Zurich and was dedicated to the Reformation ideology of Martin Luther.

His first rift with the established religious authorities in Switzerland occurred during the Lenten fast of 1522, when he was present during the eating of sausages at the house of Christoph Froschauer, a printer in the city who later published Zwingli’s translation of the Bible.

Above: Christoph Froschauer (1490 – 1564)

Above: The Zwingli Bible

According to William Roscoe Estep, Zwingli already held Reformation-oriented convictions for some time before the incident now known as the Affair of the Sausages.

In March 1522, he was invited to partake in a sausage supper that Froschauer served to his workers – who, Froschauer later claimed, were exhausted from putting out the new edition of The Epistles of St. Paul – and to various dignitaries and priests. 

Leo Jud, Klaus Hottinger and Lorenz Hochrütiner were present at the supper and later gained notoriety for their part in the Swiss Reformation.

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Above: Klaus Hottinger (d. 1524)

The meal involved Swiss Fasnachtskiechli and some slices of sharp smoked hard sausage, which had been stored for more than a year.

Because the eating of meat during Lent was prohibited, the event caused public outcry and led to Froschauer being arrested.

Though he himself did not eat the sausages, Zwingli was quick to defend Froschauer from allegations of heresy.

In a sermon titled Von Erkiesen und Freiheit der Speisen (Regarding the Choice and Freedom of Foods), Zwingli argued that fasting should be entirely voluntary, not mandatory.

According to Michael Reeves, Zwingli was advancing the Reformation position that Lent was subject to individual rule, rather than the discipline which was upheld at the time by the Catholic Church.

The Zürich Sausage Affair was interpreted as a demonstration of Christian liberty and is considered to be of similar importance for Switzerland as Martin Luther’s 95 Theses in Wittenberg for the German Reformation.

Above: Smoked sausages

The Catholic Church historically observes the disciplines of fasting and abstinence at various times each year.

For Catholics, fasting is the reduction of one’s intake of food, while abstinence refers to refraining from something that is good, and not inherently sinful, such as meat.

The Catholic Church teaches that all people are obliged by God to perform some penance for their sins, and that these acts of penance are both personal and corporeal.

Bodily fasting is meaningless unless it is joined with a spiritual avoidance of sin. 

Basil of Caesarea gives the following exhortation regarding fasting:

Let us fast an acceptable and very pleasing fast to the Lord.

True fasting is the estrangement from evil, temperance of tongue, abstinence from anger, separation from desires, slander, falsehood and perjury.

Privation of these is true fasting.

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Above: Basil of Caesarea (330 – 379)

As a man who struggles with self discipline when it comes to his diet I can see a certain wisdom in dietary directives while I simultaneously differ with the notion of someone telling me when and what I should eat.

This Is Why Your Bathroom Scale Sucks! – 20 Fit

The Church demanded that the clergy remain single and celibate, which is not natural for all men despite their religious inclinations.

Certainly women and sex distract a man from his devotion to God, but wasn’t the point of Christ that we live our lives to the fullest if we do no harm to others?

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In the Old Testament it is suggested that God is a jealous god insisting on total allegiance to Him, but I doubt that the intention of allegiance was the total denial of our biological imperatives.

The Ten Commandments (1956) (4K Ultra HD + Blu-ray) - CeDe.ch

Certainly there is a kind of freedom for a man to remove himself from the imperatives of woman.

Certainly sex is often not practiced in the life-affirming and mutually satisfactory and freely consented manner in which I believe it was intended.

The manipulated man (1974 edition) | Open Library

But whether Zwingli was as chaste a man as he should have been and whether he acted responsibly towards women has come into question when his life prior to Zürich is examined.

question mark | 3d human with a red question mark | Damián Navas | Flickr

On the topic of religious imagery I find myself ambivalent.

Images are representations of reality, but they were never meant to replace reality.

Though faith is, to a certain degree, an abandonment of reason to religion, I think the confusion of image with the intended recipient of devotion is a phenomenon too rare to be relatable a worry.

I think an image of the divine makes it easier to believe in the existence of that which is intangible and invisible to the human senses.

Imagery makes the voyeur more easily accept the existence of God whose sole proof of existence is our inability to prove His non-existence.

Imagery makes the unexplainable more palatable and acceptable to the incredulous.

Above: Destruction of icons in Zürich, 1524

As much as I respect the Islamic prohibition of images being made of Muhammad, I sincerely doubt whether viewing Muhammad as a man could ever possibly detract the Islamic faithful from fealty to his teachings.

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Above: Logo of the French satirical weekly Charlie Hebdo – The magazine has been the target of three terrorist attacks: in 2011, 2015, and 2020. All of them were presumed to be in response to a number of cartoons that it published controversially depicting Muhammad. On 7 January 2015, in the second of these attacks, 12 people were killed.

Let me repeat myself:

Murderers and terrorists are not true followers of faith.

A commemorative plaque.
Above: Commemorative plaque, Paris

Someone once said:

Don’t try to be a ‘great’ man.

Just be a man and let history make its own judgments.”

Movie poster for Star Trek: First Contact, showing head shots of Patrick Stewart as Captain Jean-Luc Picard, Brent Spiner as Data, and Alice Krige as the Borg Queen, from bottom to top; the bottom shows an image of the starship Enterprise NCC-1701-E speeding to the background over an army of Borg drones.

Letting our moral leaders be visible human beings, does this diminish the value of what it is they had to teach?

I am uncertain.

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Above: The Vitruvian Man, by Leonardo da Vinci (1490)

Zwingli’s notion of Bible study as opposed to simply a routine of rituals is a practice I approve of.

Our faith should be examined, should be questioned.

If a faith is true it can stand up to examination and questioning.

We are not only impulse and emotion.

We are also capable of reason and rationale.

An infallible and all-powerful God need never fear the legitimate desire for understanding that makes worship more possible.

Where I truly find myself at odds with the man who was Zwingli was in his persecution of those who disagreed with him.

Many in the radical wing of the Reformation became convinced that Zwingli was making too many concessions to the Zürich Council.

They rejected the role of civil government and demanded the immediate establishment of a congregation of the faithful. 

Above: Coat of arms, Zürich City Hall

Konrad Grebel (1498 – 1526), the leader of the radicals and the emerging Anabaptist movement, spoke disparagingly of Zwingli in private.

On 15 August 1524 the Council insisted on the obligation to baptise all newborn infants.

Zwingli secretly conferred with Grebel’s group and late in 1524, the Council called for official discussions.

When talks were broken off, Zwingli published Wer Ursache gebe zu Aufruhr (Whoever Causes Unrest) clarifying the opposing points-of-view.

On 17 January 1525 a public debate was held and the Council decided in favour of Zwingli.

Anyone refusing to have their children baptised was required to leave Zürich.

Above: Commemoration of Konrad Grebel’s home, Zürich

The radicals ignored these measures and on 21 January, they met at the house of the mother of another radical leader, Felix Manz (1498 – 1527).

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Above: Felix Manz

Grebel and a third leader, George Blaurock (1491 – 1529), performed the first recorded Anabaptist adult baptisms.

On 2 February, the Council repeated the requirement on the baptism of all babies and some who failed to comply were arrested and fined, Manz and Blaurock among them.

Zwingli and Jud interviewed them and more debates were held before the Zürich council.

Meanwhile, the new teachings continued to spread to other parts of the Swiss Confederation as well as a number of Swabian towns in southwestern Germany.

On 6 – 8 November, the last debate on the subject of baptism took place in the Grossmünster.

Grebel, Manz, and Blaurock defended their cause before Zwingli, Leo Jud and other reformers.

Above: Swiss reformer Leo Jud (1482 – 1542)

There was no serious exchange of views as each side would not move from their positions and the debates degenerated into an uproar, each side shouting abuse at the other.

The Zürich council decided that no compromise was possible.

On 7 March 1526 it released the notorious mandate that no one shall re-baptise another under the penalty of death.

Although Zwingli, technically, had nothing to do with the mandate, there is no indication that he disapproved.

Felix Manz, who had sworn to leave Zürich and not to baptise any more, had deliberately returned and continued the practice.

After he was arrested and tried, he was executed on 5 January 1527 by being drowned in the Limmat River.

He was the first Anabaptist martyr.

Three more were to follow, after which all others either fled or were expelled from Zürich.

Above: Memorial plate on the river wall opposite 43 Schipfe, Zürich, in remembrance of Manz and other Anabaptists executed in the early 16th century by the Zürich city government

Historians have debated whether or not Zwingli turned Zürich into a theocracy.

Certainly it seems that he did not discourage the tendency.

Above: Zwingli statue, Wasserkirche, Zürich

The problem I have with religion is not with the faith itself but with the so-called practitioners of religion, for they divide the world into Us and Them camps, then turn upon their own to dispute the details of that faith causing further division amongst themselves.

The Reformation spread to other parts of the Swiss Confederation, but several cantons resisted, preferring to remain Catholic.

Zwingli formed an alliance of Reformed cantons which divided the Swiss Confederation along religious lines.

In 1529, a war was averted at the last moment between the two sides.

Above: The Swiss Confederation, 1530

Meanwhile, Zwingli’s ideas came to the attention of Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) and other reformers.

They met at the Marburg Colloquy (1 – 4 October 1529) and agreed on many points of doctrine, but they could not reach an accord on the doctrine of the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist (holy communion wherein wine and bread are symbolically consumed to represent the body and blood of Christ).

Above: Woodcut illustration of the Marburg Colloquy

The leading Protestant reformers of the time attended at the behest of Philip I of Hesse (1504 – 1567).

Philip’s primary motivation for this conference was political.

He wished to unite the Protestant states in political alliance, and to this end, religious harmony was an important consideration.

Philip I felt the need to reconcile the diverging views of Martin Luther and Huldrych Zwingli in order to develop a unified Protestant theology.

If Philip wanted the meeting to be a symbol of Protestant unity he was disappointed.

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Above: Philip I of Hesse

Both Luther and Zwingli fell out over the sacrament of the Eucharist.

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Above: Stained glass illustration of the Eucharist, St. Michael the Archangel Church, Findlay, Ohio

Luther believed that the human body of Christ was ubiquitous (present in all places) and so present in the bread and wine.

This was possible because the attributes of God infused Christ’s human nature.

Luther emphasized the oneness of Christ’s person.

Above: Martin Luther

Zwingli, who emphasized the distinction of the natures, believed that while Christ in his deity was omnipresent, Christ’s human body could only be present in one place, that is, at the right hand of the Father.

Above: Huldrych Zwingli

The executive editor for Christianity Today magazine carefully detailed the two views that would forever divide the Lutheran and Reformed view of the Last Supper:

Luther claimed that the Body of Christ was not eaten in a gross, material way but rather in some mysterious way, which is beyond human understanding.

Yet, Zwingli replied, if the words were taken in their literal sense, the Body had to be eaten in the most grossly material way.

“For this is the meaning they carry:

This bread is that Body of Mine which is given for you.

It was given for us in grossly material form, subject to wounds, blows and death.

As such, therefore, it must be the material of the Last Supper.

Indeed, to press the literal meaning of the text even farther, it follows that Christ would have again to suffer pain, as his Body was broken again — this time by the teeth of communicants.

Even more absurdly, Christ’s Body would have to be swallowed, digested, even eliminated through the bowels!

Such thoughts were repulsive to Zwingli.

They smacked of cannibalism on the one hand and of the pagan mystery religions on the other.

The main issue for Zwingli, however, was not the irrationality or exegetical fallacy of Luther’s views.

It was rather that Luther put “the chief point of salvation in physically eating the body of Christ,” for he connected it with the forgiveness of sins.

The same motive that had moved Zwingli so strongly to oppose images, the invocation of saints, and baptismal regeneration was present also in the struggle over the Supper: the fear of idolatry.

Salvation was by Christ alone, through faith alone, not through faith and bread.

The object of faith was that which is not seen (Hebrews 11:1) and which therefore cannot be eaten except, again, in a nonliteral, figurative sense.

“Credere est edere,” said Zwingli:

“To believe is to eat.”

To eat the Body and to drink the Blood of Christ in the Supper, then, simply meant to have the Body and Blood of Christ present in the mind.

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Near the end of the Colloquy when it was clear an agreement would not be reached, Philipp asked Luther to draft a list of doctrines all that both sides agreed upon.

The Marburg Articles had 15 points and every person at the Colloquy could agree on the first fourteen. 

The 15th article of the Marburg Articles reads:

Fifteenth, regarding the Last Supper of our dear Lord Jesus Christ, we believe and hold that one should practice the use of both species as Christ Himself did, and that the Sacrament at the Altar is a Sacrament of the true Body and Blood of Jesus Christ and the spiritual enjoyment of this very Body and Blood is proper and necessary for every Christian.

Furthermore, that the practice of the Sacrament is given and ordered by God the Almighty like the Word, so that our weak conscience might be moved to faith through the Holy Spirit.

And although we have not been able to agree at this time, whether the true Body and Blood of Christ are corporally present in the bread and wine of Communion, each party should display towards the other Christian love, as far as each respective conscience allows, and both should persistently ask God the Almighty for guidance so that through His Spirit He might bring us to a proper understanding.

The failure to find agreement resulted in strong emotions on both sides.

Above: Marburg Castle, Marburg, Germany

When the two sides departed, Zwingli cried out in tears:

“There are no people on Earth with whom I would rather be at one than the Lutheran Wittenbergers.”

Because of the differences, Luther initially refused to acknowledge Zwingli and his followers as Christians, though following the Colloquy the two Reformers showed relatively more mutual respect in their writings.

Luther and Zwingli were more concerned with being “right” than being united in a common cause.

Coat of arms of Marburg
Above: Coat of arms of Marburg

In 1531, Zwingli’s alliance applied an unsuccessful food blockade on the Catholic cantons.

Starve or comply.

On 9 October 1531, in a surprise move, the Five States declared war on Zürich.

Zürich’s mobilisation was slow due to internal squabbling.

On 11 October, 3,500 poorly deployed men encountered a Five States force nearly double their size near Kappel.

Many pastors, including Zwingli, were among the soldiers.

The battle lasted less than one hour and Zwingli was among the 500 casualties in the Zürich army.

Zwingli had considered himself first and foremost a soldier of Christ, second a defender of his country, the Swiss Confederation, and third a leader of his city, Zürich, where he had lived for the previous twelve years.

Ironically, he died at the age of 47, not for Christ nor for the Confederation, but for Zürich.

Above: The death of Zwingli, Kappel am Albis, Switzerland, 11 October 1531

In Table Talk, Luther is recorded saying:

They say that Zwingli recently died thus.

If his error had prevailed, we would have perished, and our church with us.

It was a judgment of God.

That was always a proud people.

The others, the Papists, will probably also be dealt with by our Lord God.”

Above: Martin Luther’s grave, Schlosskirche, Wittenberg, Germany

Erasmus (1466 – 1536) wrote:

We are freed from great fear by the death of the two preachers, Zwingli and Oecolampadius, whose fate has wrought an incredible change in the mind of many.

This is the wonderful hand of God on high.

Johannes Oecolampadius (1482 – 1531) had died on 24 November.

Erasmus also wrote:

If Bellona (Roman goddess of war) had favoured them, it would have been all over with us.

Above: Basel Minster, Basel, Switzerland, where Erasmus is buried

Such arrogance!

Such lack of sympathy!

White Exclamation Mark Symbol On Red Circle Caution Icon Isolated On White  Stock Illustration - Download Image Now - iStock

Religious division seems to me as pointless as two bald men fighting over a comb.

Duncan Greive vs Gavin Strawhan – 2 bald men fighting over a comb | The  Daily Blog

If there is indeed a God and each of us has been given an individual mind then I believe that faith must be individual choice.

I believe that religion has its place in teaching us morality and in giving significance through rituals to the various stages of our lives.

It is here where I draw the distinction between individual faith and communal religion.

Above: Praying Hands, by Albrecht Dürer (1508)

I desire in no way, shape or form for anyone to follow my example on faith or lack thereof.

That being said, I equally resist anyone trying to force me to follow the rules of a religion which I myself do not practice.

Simply put, I live and let live.

TheBeatles-LetItBe(2011VinylReissue).png

I presently live in a predominantly Muslim nation.

Reşadiye Camii - Moschee in Eskişehir
Above: Reşadiye Camii (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

I was raised in a predominantly Christian country.

Brownsburg-Chatham » Les croix de chemin au Québec
Above: Église de St-Philippe, Brownsburg-Chatham, Québec, Canada

I would never presume to tell others how to live nor will I willingly submit to others telling me how to live (except where my actions cause harm to others).

John Lennon

In all humility I mourn the loss of anyone past or present, whether I would have agreed with them or not.

Every death diminishes us even if we are unaware of their passing.

I will never celebrate the death of anyone no matter what evils they may have perpetuated, even men as reprehensible as terrorists or tyrants.

Identifier nos ancêtres inconnus dans les cimetières québécois |  Radio-Canada.ca

That said I will not celebrate the lives of everyone to whom life was given, for we do judge people by the acts that they do.

That a man of religious principle died in battle at the mere age of 47 is cause for sadness.

That a man of religious principle accepted the executions of Anabaptists and a food blockade against Catholic cantons is not cause for commemoration.

My journey, my walk, sought to understand Zwingli and what he represents to the Swiss celebrating his legacy.

I respect his legacy that lives on in the confessions, liturgy, and church orders of the Swiss Reformed churches of today, but I sincerely doubt that had we met that I would have liked him.

In my own way I did get a sense of what his life was like by visiting the places where he once lived.

I do not know in absolute certainty whether I would have acted as he, had my life experience been his.

I do know that Zwingli’s life was remarkable enough to relate it to my readers in the hopes that they might better understand his significance to the Swiss people with whom I lived with for a decade.

I believe that every person is my superior in that I may learn from them.

And the Zwingli walk was certainly…..

Educational.

Zwingli-Wege: Auf den Spuren des kleinen Ueli | «Die Reformation geht  weiter… »

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Yvonne and Marcel Steiner, Zwingli-Wege: Zu Füss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis – Ein Wander- und Lesebuch

Canada Slim and the Succulent Collection

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Friday 13 November 2020

I have, since 12 November 2017, written a series of posts about my adventures and discoveries following a book’s walking itinerary that traces the “footsteps” and life of Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli, from his birthplace in the village of Wildhaus to his final resting place in Kappel am Albis.

Yvonne and Marcel Steiner, in their book Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis – Ein Wander- und Lesebuch, break Zwingli’s life progression within Switzerland into nine separate walks.

I have translated sections of the Steiners’ book and have quietly and slowly explored their Zwingli walks, discovering places filled with heritage and surprisingly interesting.

Zwingli-Wege - Marcel Steiner, Yvonne Steiner - Buch kaufen | Ex Libris

What I want to make clear is that I am not a man of faith.

I am not a follower of any religion.

It is not my life’s purpose to steady the Ark.

It is not my desire to question someone’s faith in the idea of Noah’s salvationary floating zoo or in virgin births or in any manner of religious imagery.

I won’t question someone’s faith, but I do question someone’s insistence that I share that faith.

I seek neither to defend or attack faith.

I seek rather only to (somewhat, somehow) understand belief and why so many are compelled to follow its tenets.

I respect the notion of faith’s attempts to provide humanity with a moral compass, but I do wonder how many believers actually heed the bearings of the compass they profess to follow.

I am fascinated (and often repulsed) at both the moral and immoral acts that are committed in the name of a God whose existence is proven only by the argument that this existence cannot be disproven either.

I am surrounded by mankind’s monuments to faith but I am unconvinced that mankind practices what it professes.

There seems to be few places that mankind dubs “civilized” where monuments to faith are not present.

I am undecided as to whether this is a good or a bad thing.

I am not suggesting that all those of faith are bad individuals, but I do question whether one needs faith to act morally or whether faith can be justified when immorality is committed.

I have followed Zwingli’s life and footsteps not as a disciple following a chosen leader but rather as a simple man trying to comprehend the religious impulse that drove him (and drives others) to justify the things that are done in the name of faith.

Ulrich-Zwingli-1.jpg

Above: Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

Between posts alternating between:

  • Alsace (France)
  • Italy
  • Lanzarote (Canary Island)
  • London (England)
  • Porto (Portugal)
  • Serbia (Belgrade and Nis)
  • Switzerland

….I have written of my explorations, of Zwingli’s life and the lands through which he travelled and sojourned, from Wildhaus to Kilchberg.

Karte Zürichsee.png

Above: Lake Zürich (Zürichsee)

Please see Canada Slim and…..

  • the Road to Reformation (12 November 2017)
  • the Wild Child of Toggenburg (20 November 2017)
  • the Thundering Hollows (27 November 2017)
  • the Basel Butterfly Effect (3 December 2017)
  • the Vienna Waltz (9 December 2017)
  • the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul (18 December 2017)
  • the Monks of the Dark Forest (8 January 2018)
  • the Privileged Place (26 January 2018)
  • the Lakeside Pilgrimage (24 April 2018)

Today, I want to start writing of the discoveries the walker can make following the shore of Lake Zürich from Kilchberg into downtown Zürich itself.

Kilchberg - Albis-Uetliberg - ZSG Pfannenstiel 2013-09-09 14-34-19.JPG

Above: Kilchberg

Above: Lake Zürich and the Limmat River as seen from Zürich’s Grossmünster

The Steiners recommend walking from Kilchberg via Nidelbad and Wollishofen, following in parallel fashion the route of the Lake Zürich railway line.

Strecke der Linksufrige Zürichseebahn

And certainly the Steiners’ idea has merit, for their path meanders through forest and offers wonderful glimpses of the beautiful panaroma of the entire Lake below.

Above: Lake Zürich in winter as seen from Uetliberg

There were two reasons I opted against this idea:

First, I wanted to walk beside the Lake despite the urbanization and traffic a stroll here meant.

Second, the Steiners’ book was not the only book I carried.

Duncan J.D. Smith’s Only in Zürich: A Guide to Unique Locations, Hidden Corners and Unusual Objects, based on the author’s personal experiences walking through the city on the Limmat, offers new and innovative perspectives on this region.

Smith reveals the Zürich of Roman ruins and medieval walls, of hidden gardens and little-known museums, of unusual shops and converted factories.

So it was Smith’s guide rather than the Steiner book that I followed from Kilchberg to the Grossmünster in downtown Zürich, even though the sites seen in this walk were not as focused on Huldrych Zwingli as Zwingli Wege.

What follows below is a description of that walk.

It is my hope that you will enjoy reading about it as much as I enjoyed walking and describing it.

Only in Zurich Buch von Duncan J. D. Smith versandkostenfrei - Weltbild.ch

Kilchberg to Zürich, Saturday 19 August 2018

I descended from Kilchberg down to the water’s edge and eventually my feet found their way along Seestrasse (Lake Street) heading ever northward to the Big City, where all roads in Switzerland seem to lead.

Top: View over Zürich and the lake Middle: Fraumünster Church on the river Limmat (left), and the Sunrise Tower (right)

Above: Images of Zürich

When Zürich was “zu reich

Fear.

Anxiety.

Anger.

Desperation.

These are the moods of the moment.

Moods that drive people to the streets, bounded into a movement, draped in hopelessness and yet driven by hope.

Protesters protest in the belief, however modest, that their voices on the street will be heard.

On 30 May 1980, a protest staged by youth activists outside Zürich’s Opera House (Opernhaus Zürich) turned violent.

A three-day celebration of the Zürich Opernhaus and the opening of a festival was celebrated on 30 May 1980.

Uninvited, about 200 protesters crashed the festival opening and demanded an autonomous youth center.

The communal Stadtpolizei Zürich (Zürich city police) and state Kantonspolizei (Zürich canton police) police corps were informed beforehand and were stationed in the foyer of the opera house as a precautionary measure.

As the youths occupied the exterior stairs of the Opera House, the demonstration degenerated into a street battle between demonstrators and the police, who were equipped with water cannons, tear gas and rubber bullets.

The youth protests culminated on 30/31 May 1980, at the present Sechseläutenplatz square in Zürich, but later spread throughout the whole city.

A public referendum also contributed to the riots, as the city of Zurich planned to grant CHF 61 million for a renovation and an extension of the Opera House, but nothing for the planned Rote Fabrik cultural center in Zürich-Wollishofen, by the Zürichsee lakeshore.

The protestors felt that the demands of the young people for their own cultural center had been ignored for years and that the astronomical grant for the Opera House demonstrated this lack of commitment to youth by Zürich’s conservative government.

Their reaction was a “long pent-up anger” as seen on a newspaper headline.

Züri brännt” has since become a household word, and is the title of a punk song by the band TNT.

Andreas Homoki, director of the Opera House, described the situation in the “hot summer of 1980” as explosive, and that “there was not enough room for a youth culture” because of a lack of alternative governmental cultural programs for the youth in Zürich.

Operahaus Zürich (31943376567).jpg

Above: Opernhaus Zürich

Months of rioting between police and protesters ensued and the orderliness for which the City was renowned was turned upside down.

By the time peace was restored, shops were wrecked, cars burned, thousands arrested, many injured, and one woman had died after setting herself on fire in protest.

Zürich was like a war zone and the outside world was stunned.

Most surprising of all the cause was less about political ideology and more about the lack of government support for the city’s alternative arts scene.

Zürich: Opernhauskrawalle als Initialzündung für die «Bewegung»

Above: The Opernhauskrawalle (opera house protest)(or Züri branntZürich burns), 30 May 1980

The Zürich riots were played out against a backdrop of a society in flux.

A rebellious European youth counterculture was manifesting itself in punk music, anarchistic art movements, and squatting protests.

The conservative authorities in straight-laced Zürich struggled to accommodate it – and little wonder that the city was ripe for rebellion as at the time there was an 2300 hours curfew and dancing was forbidden on religious holidays.

One of several watering holes that defied the curfew was the Helvti Bar in the basement of the Hotel Helvetia at Stauffacherquai 1 in the district of Werd.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL ⋆ HOTEL HELVETIA Zürich

Students, artists, musicians and journalists from the leftist newspaper Tages Anzeiger regularly discussed the countercultural revolution here well in the wee hours of the morning.

Tages-Anzeiger, 28 May 1923 (page 1, cropped).jpg

They also assembled here to take part in the great street marches that defined the era.

Since the early 1970s Zürich’s youth movement had been growing steadily more frustrated at the lack of public funding and work space for a new generation of artists.

Pleas for the establishment of youth centres were repeatedly turned down and so instead the counterculture focused itself on two big community squats.

(The film is in German – worse yet, Swiss German – but I think the images need no translating.)

The first took place in 1980 inside a former silk mill at Seestrasse 395 (Wollishofen district) on the shore of the Zürichsee.

Constructed in 1892, the building had been set for demolition before the Council earmarked it for use by the Opera, which was about to be renovated at taxpayers’ expense.

It was this decision that triggered the protest in May 1980 by those who felt ignored in favour of “elitist” venues.

Whereas squats in municipal premises elsewhere in Switzerland have remained illegal it is indicative of Zürcher pragmatism that in 1987 the Rote Fabrik (red factory) collective voted to apply for permanent legal status and an arts subsidy from the City Council.

They were successful.

Rotefabrik.jpg

Above: The Rote Fabrik (red factory)

Today the alternative heart of the Rote Fabrik still beats loudly by providing studio and performance space for artists thanks to public funding.

Indeed, even Zürich’s most conservative newspaper the New Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) has been known to review the avant-garde dance and drama performed at the venue!

NZZ-newspaper-cover.jpg

The second great squat occurred in 1991 when a group of artists moved into the newly empty Wohlgroth gas meter factory on Zollstrasse (Gewerbeschule district) alongside the city’s main railway line.

The squatters quickly erected a sign on the building to greet arriving trains that imitated an official Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) sign.

Instead of “ZÜRICH” it read “ZUREICH” (too rich) and guaranteed fury from the Establishment.

Wohlgroth-Areal: Räumung in Zürich nach grosser Hausbesetzung

The Wohlgroth squat became a cause célèbre and quickly developed into a thriving alternative arts centre.

Concerned at not being able to generate income from the building the owner eventually offered to relocate the squat elsewhere but his offer was rejected.

Shortly afterwards in 1993 the building was cleared by police using tear gas and water cannons.

Vor 25 Jahren wurde das Wohlgroth Areal geräumt

It might have pleased the squatters to know that the Industrie Quartier (industrial quarter)(District 5) to the west of Zollstrasse would later be transformed into Zürich West, the pulsating heart of the city’s new subculture.

(The Rote Fabrik is open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 1100 to 0000 and on Fridays and Sundays from 1100 to 0100.)

The Kaiser’s paddle steamer

It is a little-known fact that Europe’s first iron-hulled ship was the steam ferry Minerva, which made its inaugural cruise across the Zürichsee on 19 July 1835.

Minerva (Schiff, 1834) – Wikipedia

Above: The Minerva

Many vessels have worked the Lake since then and the ferries of the Lake Zürich Shipping Company (Zürichsee Schifffahrtsgesellschaft).

Zürichsee Schifffahrtsgesellschaft (ZSG)

In amongst the modern ferries, however, there is one especially historic vessel.

Built a little over a century ago the Stadt Zürich (city of Zürich) is the oldest paddle steamer (Raddampfer) on the Lake and a piece of floating history.

ZSG - Stadt Zürich IMG 3201.JPG

When not racing from port to port the Stadt Zürich can be found moored at the shipping company’s harbour on Mythenquai in Wollishofen (Wollishofen Schiffstation).

A visit to the dock around 0700 hours or 1900 hours provides the opportunity of having the vessal to one’s self (albeit viewed from the path overlooking the harbour) as opposed to sharing it with the 750 passengers it can hold when in service.

The Stadt Zürich was built for the Lake Zürich Shipping Company by the Zürich engineering firm Escher, Wyss & Cie.

Launched on 8 May 1909 she was the 32nd commercial ferry on the Zürichsee after the Minerva.

Her maiden voyage took place on 12 June and immediately it was clear she was something special.

Like her sister vessel the Stadt Rapperswil (1914), also built to satisfy the increasing popularity of lake steamers, the Stadt Zürich had several novel features, including a spacious Art Nouveau-style First Class saloon on the upper deck and short smoke stacks.

In her first year of service the Stadt Zürich sailed over 12,000 kilometres and burned over 250,000 kilos of coal.

Although many cantonal and municipal dignitaries sailed on the maiden voyage of the Stadt Zürich, undoubtedly the vessel’s most famous passenger was German Kaiser (emperor) Wilhelm II (1859 – 1941).

Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany - 1902.jpg

Above: Kaiser Wilhelm II

On the evening of 4 September 1912, Wilhelm boarded the steamer with his retinue and made a tour of the Lake.

The vessel was adorned with flowers, strict dress regulations were applied, tea and German beer were served.

Fireworks were let off along the shoreline as the vessel steamed by.

It is interesting to note that ship’s stoker Jakob Stampfer was replaced for the evening because of his anti-imperial and Social Democratic political views.

Kaiser Wilhelm (Schiff, 1871) – Wikipedia

During the First World War ferry services on Lake Zürich were reduced and in December 1918 stopped altogether by the Swiss Federal Council because the country had to import coal.

Service resumed in 1919.

Between 1922 and 1939 the Stadt Zürich was overhauled on several occasions, receiving new boiler tubes and new paddle wheels.

In 1938 the vessel was fitted for the first time with electric heating.

During the Second World War the boilers of the Stadt Zürich were kept filled around the clock and her engines in perfect running condition in readiness for possible military activity.

Her services were not required and instead she was upgraded from coal to oil in 1951, at which point her original crew of eight was reduced.

It was also during the 1950s that the sun awning on the upper deck was replaced by a solid roof and the original Art Nouveau salon fittings stripped out.

By the 1980s the two paddle steamers were the last of their type and had been replaced for daily ferry services by modern diesel powered vessels.

The old steamers were not to be abandoned though and instead the Lake Zürich Shipping Company decided to preserve and restore them and use them for special services.

It was at this time that the interior of the Stadt Zürich was lovingly restored to its original appearance.

Further upgrades occurred in 2003 with the result that today both vessels offer the thrill of travel by paddle steamer combined with all the comforts of a modern ferry.

Still going strong a century after her launch the Stadt Zürich has now travelled well over 700,000 kilometres.

(For more information, including prices and timetables, please see http://www.zsg.ch.)

(Another relic of the steam age is the little locomotive Schnaagi Schnaagi built in 1899.

It runs on the last Sunday of the month between April and October along the Sihl Valley between Bahnhof Wiedikon and Sihlwald. )(http://www.museumbahn.ch)

ZMB Zürcher Museums-Bahn ZMB Zürcher Museums-Bahn

Above: The Schnaagi Schnaagi

The Island of Women

Themiscyra (Greek: Θεμίσκυρα Themiskyra) was an ancient Greek town in northeastern Anatolia.

It was situated on the southern coast of the Black Sea, near the mouth of the Thermodo.

According to Greek mythology, it was the capital city of the Amazons, a tribe of warrior women.

Themyscira is a fictional unitary sovereign city-state island appearing in American comic books published by DC Comics.

Themyscira is a segregated nation of women — regarded as a feminist Utopia — governed by Aphrodite’s Law, which declared that the Amazons would be immortal as long as no man set foot on their island.

Subsequently, any man attempting to set foot on Themyscira, does so under penalty of death.

Themyscira is the theocracy and capital city that serves as the Amazonian government and the place of origin for Wonder Woman.

Wonder Woman (2017 film).jpg

Just north of the Wollishofen shipyard, where the ferries of the Lake Zürich Shipping Company are docked, lies the tiny island of Saffa.

Connected to the shore by a bridge, and with little to distinguish it beyond a clump of trees, Saffa ain’t much to look at.

The island’s unusual name, however, recalls a very interesting story.

Above: Saffa Island

Saffa today is an island for all seasons.

In summer it is popular with bathers.

It autumn it doubles as a theatre stage.

In winter, when the Lake is frozen, Saffa provides a welcome feeding ground for swans and ducks.

It is hard to imagine that barely more than 50 years ago the island did not exist at all.

Saffa-Insel Zürich

So what does Saffa mean?

Is it perhaps Greek?

Does it have some connection to saffron?

Above: Saffron crocus, Crocus sativus, with its vivid crimson stigmas and styles

SAFFA is an acronym for the Schweizerische Ausstellung für Frauenarbeit (Swiss Exhibition for Women’s Work), which took place on the shoreline here between 17 July and 15 September 1958.

Hochparterre - Kultur - Zeitzeuginnen der SAFFA 1958 gesucht

Material excavated for the construction of the exhibition buildings was not taken away but rather dumped offshore, together with material from the excavation of the Enge road tunnel, creating SAFFA Island in the process.

The exhibition’s landmark was a 35-metre high, eight-storey tower erected immediately north of the island on the Landiwiese.

Visible for miles around the tower acted as an advertisement for the exhibition, which the locals dubbed Frauenland (women’s land).

Ansichtskarte Zürich, SAFFA 1958, Wohnturm: (1958)  Manuskript / Papierantiquität | Bartko-Reher

Above: SAFFA Tower

Above: SAFFA exhibition, Zürich, 1958

The exhibition, the 2nd of its type after an earlier one staged in Bern in 1928, was organized by numerous women’s groups and was a major national event.

Above: SAFFA exhibition, Bern, 1928

Its purpose was to illustrate the position and importance of Swiss women in the family, the workplace and in Swiss society as a whole.

With a daily programme of concerts, congresses and other events, it proved a great success, attracting two million visitors.

Inside the tower were constructed a series of rooms in which the many and varied roles of Swiss women in the 1950s were represented, from the young apprentice in her rented room and the well-to-do homemaker in her detached family home to the retired lady in an old people’s home.

SAFFA 1958: Im Pavillon der Mode

SAFFA presented women who were wanted in the booming economy as consumers and workers, their possibilities in the areas of education, employment, shopping and leisure.

Emphasizing that women had to absorb negative impacts of the rapidly changing world, nevertheless, by spreading harmony inside and outside of their families.

A curious costume, Champery.jpg

Men should be made aware of women in the service of the general public, of their indispensability and so be motivated to fix the social discrimination against women.

With the profits from the two exhibitions, solidarity works were established for women.

Saffa 1958: Zur Rolle der Schweizerin - SWI swissinfo.ch

Tradition dictates that the place of Swiss women is in the home in charge of housework and child care.

Being in a society with strong patriarchal roots, Swiss tradition also places women under the authority of their fathers and their husbands.

Such adherence to tradition changed and improved when the women of Switzerland gained the right to vote on the federal level on 7 February 1971.

However, despite gaining status of having equal rights with men, some Swiss women are still unable to attain education beyond the post-secondary level, thus they earn less money than men and occupy lower-level job positions.

According to swissinfo.ch in 2011, Switzerland’s State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (Seco) were encouraging business companies to “appoint more women to top-level positions“.

Those who are already working in business companies, according to same report, mentions that “women earn on average 20% less than men” in Switzerland, and the ratio was six out of ten women were working part-time.

The novel idea for the SAFFA tower came from the exhibition’s chief architect, Annemarie Hubacher.

Her celebration of womanhood was an early stab at Swiss feminism, although it may now appear tame to some.

Notably it still clung to the traditional three-phase model laid out for women – training for a career, motherhood, and the return to gainful employment.

Hubacher typified the situation for some women at the time in that she was 37 years of age, a mother of two and expecting a third, and a partner in her husband’s architectural practice.

SAFFA 1958: Die Architektin

Above: Annemarie Hubacher

Men were also represented in the exhibition – and again in a stereotypical manner.

Alongside the nearby railway a cable car was erected for male visitors, as well as an artificial petrol station, a punching bag and a rifle range.

One must remember that women were still in the thrall of men and that prior to the exhibition an attempt at granting Swiss women the right to vote had been rejected.

The first federal vote in which women were able to participate was the 31 October 1971 election of the Federal Assembly.

Bundeshaus - Nationalratsratssaal - 001.jpg

Above: Chamber of the Swiss National Council

In 1991 following a decision by the Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland, Appenzell Innerrhoden (AI) became the last Swiss canton to grant women the vote on local issues.

Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland, 2020 (cropped).jpg

Above: Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland, Lausanne

AI is the smallest Swiss canton with 14,100 inhabitants in 1990.

Flag of Kanton Appenzell Innerrhoden

Above: Flag of Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden

Hubacher was no political activist though and it seems unfair she was criticized for not pushing female emanicipation farther with her exhibition.

Her son, however, was incisive about her lot as a Swiss woman:

She was always both: a family and a career person, but above all with love and soul an architect.

On a personal level he was referring to the fact that architecture ran in the family’s blood, one of their ancestors being Zürich city architect Gustav Gull (1858 – 1942) responsible for building the Landesmuseum Zürich (Swiss National Museum) at Museumstrasse 2 and the Amtshaus (administrative building) at Bahnhofquai 3.

(The Landesmuseum is open year-round Tuesday to Sunday 1000 – 1700, on Thursdays until 1900.

Above: Landesmuseum

The Amtshaus, with its glorious Giacometti Hall at its entrance, is open daily (0900 – 1100 / 1400 – 1600).

Identification must be shown upon entry.)

Amtshaus I - Stadt Zürich

Above: Amtshaus

Kunst und Bau Amtshaus I - Stadt Zürich

Above: Giacometti Hall

On a broader level, Annemarie’s son was speaking for many Swiss women who juggled with varying degrees of success their roles as wife, mother and professional woman.

Swiss women eventually gained the right to vote in 1971 (despite it being one of the demands of a general strike as far back as 1918) and a triumphant bronze statue by Swiss sculptor Hermann Haller (1880 – 1950) entitled Girl with Raised Hands still reminds the passer-by of the part Saffa Island played in the process.

Datei:Landiewiese - Mädchen mit erhobenen Händen (Hermann Haller) -  Landiwiese - Wollishofen 2012-03-12 13-50-24 (P7000).JPG – Wikipedia

Above: Hermann Haller’s Mädchen mit erhobenen Händen (Girl with Raised Hands)

(Haller’s studio is a highlight of Zürich’s Museum Bellerive at Höschgasse 3, open March to October, Tuesday / Wednesday / Friday / Sunday (1000 – 1700) / Thursday (1000 – 2000), and November to February, Tuesday to Sunday (1000 – 1700)

MfGZ from scaffold.jpg

Above: Museum Bellerive (design museum)

Quite by coincidence, an equally triumphant but far smaller work called Girl in the Wind by German artist Otto Münch (1885 – 1965) has graced the nearby main road since 1936, when it was placed there by the City of Zürich.

Münch’s work is one of the most charming but little-known public sculptures in Zürich.

File:Landiwiese - Mädchen im Wind (Otto Münch) 2015-05-06 14-18-31.JPG -  Wikimedia Commons

Above: Otto Münch, Mädchen im Wind (Girl in the wind)

Against the odds several Swiss women have left an important impression on their country during the 20th century, especially in Zürich.

They include Paulette Brupbacher (1880 – 1967), who promoted the rights of mothers and wives despite a ban of her speaking publically.

Paulette Brupbacher - Anarcopedia

Above: Paulette Brupbacher

Brupbacher is recalled together with her husband in a monument in the church cemetery in Höngg.

Prominenten- und Ehrengräber auf den Friedhöfen der Stadt Zürich - Stadt  Zürich

(The small Höngg church with its cemetery at Am Wettingertobel 38 is accessible Sunday to Friday (0800 – 1800). )

Kirche Höngg (Zürich) – Wikipedia

Above: Kirche Höngg (Höngg Church)

Another woman who encountered problems in her work was Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853 – 1901), niece of the Heidi author Johanna Spyri.

Emelie was the first Swiss woman to graduate in law but was denied access to the bar because of her gender.

(UAZ) AB.1.0518 Kempin-Spyri 01.jpg

Above: Emelie Kempin-Spyri

Artwork in her memory by the artist Piplotti Rist (famous for St. Gallen’s City Lounge) can be found in the courtyard of the University of Zürich.

UZH - Media - Universität Zürich ehrt Emilie Kempin-Spyri mit Denkmal von Pipilotti  Rist

Above: The Spyri chair, Pipilotti Rist

Despite these events being a long time ago, women are still not allowed to join Zürich’s guilds.

Zunfthaus zur Waag - Lindenhof 2011-04-11 16-32-54 ShiftN.jpg

(It was the brave women of Zürich who defended the Lindenhof against attack by the Habsburg Duke Albrecht I (1282 – 1308) as far back as 1292.

AlbrechtI.jpg

Above: Duke Albrecht I

At the time the men of Zürich were away waging a battle in Winterthur.

This episode is recalled by the Hedwig Fountain on the Lindenhof, which includes the helmeted figure of a female warrior.)

The Succulent Collection

The suburban quarter of Enge lies on the western shores of Zürichsee.

For the most part a residential area, Enge numbers among its attractions the Museum Rietberg (a museum dedicated to non-European art) and the Seebad Enge Lido (an open-air public bathing area).

On the same road as the Lido, however, there is something quite unique for Switzerland:

One of the largest and most important collections of succulent plants in the world.

Mythenquai - Sukkulentensammlung 2015-02-26 11-48-05.JPG

Zürich’s Succulent Collection (Sukkulentensammlung) at Mythenquai 88 is easy to find since the nearby bus stop is named after it.

The Collection was inaugurated in September 1931 after Jules Brann, a local department store owner, donated an already renowned collection of succulents to the City of Zürich, which still maintains it to this day.

Above: Interior at visitors’ entry

The statistics of the current collection are impressive:

50,000 individual plants representing 6,500 species from more than 80 botanical families, displayed across an area of 4,750 square metres, including six show houses, 700 square metres of glasshouses (for acclimatization, breeding, over-wintering and protection), 550 square metres of heated bedding frames, as well as open-air rockeries for frost-hardy plants.

There is also an extensive seed collection and a herbarium containing 14,000 dried plant specimens for botanical reference and research.

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

Little wonder that the Collection is the official repository for the International Organization for Succulent Plant Study (IOS).

Today there are basically two large international organizations conducting research and conservation on succulent plants:

  • International Organization for Succulent Plant Study (IOS)
  • Sociedad Latinoamericana y del Caribe de Cactáceas y otras Suculentas (SLCCS)
    (Latin American and Caribbean Society of Cactaceae and Other Succulents)

Above: Austrocylindropuntia shaferi, San Lucas, Chuquisaca, Bolivia 

The IOS

In 1947 the Swiss gardener and cactus expert Hans Krainz (1906–1980) dealt with the idea of uniting existing national cacti organizations (for example, the German Cactus Society, the Austrian Cactus Society, and the Swiss Cactus Society) under a single umbrella organization, the European Cactus Society, while maintaining their independence.

However, a first call, which had been sent by him at the end of 1947, found no resonance, just after the end of World War II.

Крайнц, Ханс — Википедия

Above: Hans Krainz


In spring of 1950, a letter signed by Hans Krainz, Franz Buxbaum (A) and H. Michael Roan (GB) was sent by the Board of Trustees of the Scientific Fund of the Swiss Cactus Society to about 50 well-known succulent researchers and other botanists, which invited to the 1st International Congress of Succulent Researchers for 27 September 1950.

The participants in this congress agreed in just a few days on a statute on which basis the IOS was founded on 30 September 1950 with the aim “to promote the study and conservation of succulent and allied plants and to encourage international co-operation amongst those interested in them“.

About Us | IOS

Above: IOS logo

The Organization reached significant international status at the 3rd IOS Congress 1955 in London with the accession of 15 members from non-European countries.

View of Tower Bridge from Shad Thames

From 1984 until 1998, the members met annually with the introduction of Inter-Congresses.

In these years the reports in the IOS Bulletins show high productivity, an active participation, and a challenging academic program.

In 1994, the number of members reached an all time high of 239.

Around the turn of the century, IOS seems to have lost its drive and drifted into a ‘crisis of meaning’.

The membership began began to decrease considerably.

Above: Lobivia bertraminiana, Iscayachi, Tarija, Bolivia

In a somewhat unfriendly takeover of the IOS Board in 2006, the new Secretary, Dr David Hunt, attempted a revival of IOS.

For some time the membership increased slightly again to about 160 – on paper.

However, Hunt’s endeavour for gaining, maintaining, extending and securing his exclusive control over the IOS and its financial resources, his refusal to unclose financial documents even to members of the IOS Executive Board, and the oppression of a free election for the Executive Board 2014-2016, eventually led to the demand of a worried group of members to immediately exclude Dr Hunt from the IOS for his continued acts against the interest of IOS, the IOS Statutes and the IOS Code of Conduct.

With the support of the President of the IOS, Hunt remained in the position of Secretary, which resulted in great loss of (mainly continental European) members.

IN MEMORIAM. | IOS

Above: Dr. David Hunt

The time-honored IOS continues to exist in elitist seclusion at the brink of irrelevance.

Many see the survival of the IOS in a move “back to the roots“.

Above: Espostoa guentheri, Nuevo Mundo, Santa Cruz, Bolivia 

As an European Organization for Succulent Plant Research (EOS), as originally envisaged by Hans Krainz.

This way, today’s IOS could become a valuable partner on an equal footing, for example, with the modern-run Latin American and Caribbean Society of Cactaceae and Other Succulents, which has similar goals.

A division of tasks between researchers in the homelands of succulent plants and researchers in Europe, focussing more on conservation and well-maintained and documented living collections, could be of benefit for both sides and lead to significant synergy effects and cost savings in joint projects.

Considering that mainly European plant collectors have explored the habitats of cacti and other succulents over a long period of time (not seldom causing damage), a repatriation program of species in vitro could be considered to areas where populations have been lost.

SLCCS

The SLCCS


The Latin American and Caribbean Society of Cactus and Other Succulents was founded in 1989 and the official statutes were approved in Havana, Cuba, on the V. Latin American Congress of Botany in 1990.

The mission of the SLCCS is to encourage and stimulate scientific research on cacti and other succulents in Latin America and the Caribbean, support initiatives for the conservation of these plants, disseminate the information generated from the studies carried out and contribute to the professional training of people interested in acquiring basic and applied knowledge about cacti and other succulents.


en:slccs [Bibliothèque numérique du CF]

To fulfill this mission, SLCCS sets the following objectives:

  • Involve people interested in the study and conservation of cacti and other succulents in Latin America in the activities of the Society, through the membership program.
  • Encourage the creation of national representations of the Society in each Latin American country.
  • Conduct periodic organizational meetings of the members of the Society.
  • Disseminate scientific information and general interest about these plants throughout Latin America.
  • Support local initiatives focused on the study and conservation of these plants.
  • Encourage the creation of botanical gardens and protected areas dedicated to the care and propagation of these plants.

Since September 2004, SLCCS has been offering a public electronic newsletter (Boletín), which is a very practical mass communication channel among people interested in the study and cultivation of cacti and other succulents in Latin America and elsewhere.

Regrettably, this excellent service had to be temporarily suspended in 2013 due to staff shortages.

Above: Echinopsis schickendantzii, Chuquisaca, Bolivia 

Some very basic botanical knowledge would certainly enhance a visit to the Succulent Collection.

Most importantly it should be borne in mind that while cacti are classified as succulents, not all succulents are cacti.

The word “succulent” is a descriptive term for plants living in dry areas of the tropics and subtropics, such as steppes, deserts, sea coasts and dry lakes.

They have adpated to high temperatures and low precipation by storing water in their leaves or stems, enabling them to survive long periods of drought.

Cacti form a distinct group of succulents known as Cactaceae, but it is not their spines that create the distinction, since some cacti are smooth (like most Lophophoras) and there are some prickly succulents (such as Agaves and Euphorbias).

Classification is made not on external characteristics such as the presence of spines or leaf shape but rather on the basis of their reproductive systems.

All cacti have spine cushions known as areoles, which usually appear like small, fluffy cotton-like protusions.

The spines, hairs, branches and flowers of a cactus will only grow out of these cushions, whereas the prickly parts of other succulents exhibit an entirely random growth pattern.

Sukkulentensammlung - Innenansicht 2015-01-05 15-46-48 (P7800).JPG

The taxonomy of the plants on display can be complex, but need not concern most visitors, who will be more than happy just to marvel at some of the most curiously shaped plants in the world.

Representing every arid region on Earth they include towering prickly cacti, lethally spiked Agaves, rosette-shaped Aloes, Euphorbias exuding bitter milky juice and tropical Epiphytes suspended from the glasshouse ceilings.

Agave americana R01.jpg

Above: Agave Americana

Above: Aloe africana

Above: Euphorbia baylissii

Above: Epiphyte Tillandia bourgaei growing on an oak tree in Mexico

Probably the most curiously shaped is the blue candle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans) from Central America, which because it is prone to abnormal growth patterns at its tips is nicknamed “dinosaur back“.

Above: Myrtillocactus geometrizans, UNAM Botanical Garden, Mexico City

20% of the Collection’s plant holdings come from a variety of horticultural origins, with 45% hailing from the wild, mainly in the form of seeds.

The rest come predominantly from seed obtained through controlled pollination and the propagation of plant cuttings.

Flowering time for many of the plants in the Collection is between May and June, although some are still blooming in September.

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

Most unusual of all is the night-blooming Selenicereus grandiflorus from Central America.

Known also as the Queen of the Night, it starts its annual bloom at dusk and is finished by dawn.

Johann Jacob Haid Cereus.jpg

It is considered so unusual that that the blooming is announced on local radio and the Collection opens all night for visitors.

(For blooming times, visit http://www.foerderverein.ch.)

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

(The Succulent Collection is open from 0900 to 1630.)

(https://stadt-zuerich.ch/sukkulenten)

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

Where Wagner met his muse

One of Zürich’s loveliest public green spaces is the Rieter Park at Seestrasse 110 (Enge district) on the west bank of Zürichsee.

Within this leafy parkland stand no less than three grand villas.

Once private they are owned today by the City of Zürich, which uses them to house one of Switzerland’s few museums dedicated to non-European art.

Fortunately for visitors the internationally-renowned collection is usually referred to by the easier-to.remember name of Museum Rietberg!

Above: Villa Wesendonck / Museum Rietberg

The magnificent neo-classical Villa Wesendonck at Gablerstrasse 15 was erected in 1857 for the wealthy silk merchant Otto von Wesendonck and his poetess wife Mathilde.

Above: Bas relief of Otto von Wesendonck (1815 – 1896)

Above: Mathilde von Wesendonck (née Luckemeyer) (1828 – 1902)

In 1852 the pair encountered the composer Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883) and his wife Minna, who had fled to Zürich following the 1849 May Uprising in Dresden.

The head and upper torso of a young white woman with dark hair done in an elaborate style. She wears a small hat, a cloak and dress that expose her shoulders and pearl earrings. On her left hand that holds the edge of the cloak, two rings are visible.

Above: Wilhelmine “Minna” Wagner, née Planer (1809 – 1866)

Dresdner Maiaufstand.jpg

Above: Prussian and Saxon troops assault revolutionary barricades in the Dresden Neumarkt

A printed notice in German with elaborate Gothic capitals. Wagner is described as 37 to 38 of middle height with brown hair and glasses.

Above: Warrant for the arrest of Richard Wagner, 16 May 1849

Otto was a great admirer of Wagner and in 1856 offered him the use of a cottage on the Wesendonck estate.

Above: Richard Wagner

During this time Wagner became well acquainted with Mathilde Wesendonck and used her poems in his Wesendonck Lieder, a five-song cycle composed while working simultaneously on Die Walküre.

Some commentators claim that Wagner and Mathilde had an affair.

Above: Wagner Stele, Rieter Park

Above: Wagner Stele in Rieter Park

Whatever the truth their mutual infatuation contributed to the intensity of the first act of Die Walküre, as well as having a discernible effect on Mathilde’s poems during this period.

Incidentally, Wagner once sang the first act of his Die Walküre in Zürich’s luxurious Baur au Lac Hotel, accompanied by Franz Liszt on piano!

Above: Baur au Lac Hotel, Zürich

Above: Franz Liszt (1811 – 1886)

In 1872 the Wesendoncks sold their mansion and gardens to the family of cotton manufacturer Adolf Rieter.

Logo Rieter.svg

Above: Logo of Rieter AG, Winterthur-based manufacturer of textile machinery

It was during this period that the German Kaiser Wilhelm II (1888 – 1918) stayed for several nights as a guest.

Above: Potrait of Kaiser Wilhelm II

At the end of the Second World War, the City of Zürich acquired the Villa and Park, and renovated both.

Around the same time the City was bequeathed the private non-European sculptural collection of Baron Eduard von der Heydt (1882 – 1964) and it was decided to house it in the Villa, as a result of which the Museum Rietberg opened in 1952.

The collection is today spread across four different buildings.

The Villa Wesendonck is used to display religious and ceremonial objects from America, India, Oceania and Southwest Asia (as well as some unsettling Shrovetide masks from Switzerland).

Schweizer Masken - Museum Rietberg

In Room 28 amongst the wonderful Buddhist art from India and Pakistan is the bronze of a four-armed dancing Shiva, surrounded by a ring of fire.

Shiva Nataraja - Museum Rietberg

An underground extension to the Museum was opened alongside the Villa in 2007, more than doubling the exhibition space.

Designed by Alfred Grazioli and Adolf Krischanitz, the extension is called the Smaragd (an allusion to a poem by Mathilde Wesendonck used in Wagner’s third song) and is entered by means of a green glass pavilion.

File:Zürich Museum Rietberg Haus Smaragd.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

Above: The Smargd, Museum Rietberg

Of particular note amongst the African, Japanese and Chinese holdings is the Han Dynasty bronze horse in Room 2, the colourful glazed Tan Dynasty figurines in Room 4, the 17th century Noh theatre masks in Room 11 and the large cloisonné Ming jar in Room 7.

File:Han Pferd Bronze Museum Rietberg img01.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

File:Modell Schafstall östliche Han-Dynastie Museum Rietberg.jpg -  Wikimedia Commons

File:No-Maske Mikazuki Museum Rietberg.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

File:Ming Pilgerflasche Museum Rietberg U 138.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

On the two floors of the nearby Park Villa Rieter are displayed exquisite examples of Islamic, Persian and Indian paintings, prints and calligraphy.

The collection of North Indian miniatures is one of the world’s finest.

Villa Rieter – Wikipedia

Above: Park Villa Rieter, Museum Rietberg

A secret Garden - Museum Rietberg

In the northern part of the Park at Gablerstrasse 14 stands the 4th and final element in the Museum complex.

The red brick Villa Schönberg was built in the late 19th century by the Rieter family and remained in private hands until the 1970s.

Narrowly escaping demolition it too was acquired by the City of Zürich and is used today as a specialist non-leading library.

Villa Schönberg - Stadt Zürich

Above: Villa Schönberg

Worth noting are the orangery, grotto and turret-shaped pavilion in the garden.

As well, look for the bust of Wagner lurking amongst the shrubbery.

Gärten der Welt — Auf zur Grottentour

(The Museum Rietberg – including Villa Wesendonck, Smaragd and Park Villa Rieter – is open Tuesday / Friday / Sunday (1000 – 1700) and Wednesday / Thursday (1000 – 2000). ) (https://rietberg.ch)

(Another charming former private estate lies between Rieter Park and Lake Zürich, Belvoir Park at Seestrasse 125 was purchased in 1826 by Heinrich Escher, who erected a neo-classical Villa there.

His railway-building son Alfred Escher (1819 – 1882), whose memorial fountain stands in front of Zürich Main Station (Hauptbahnhof Zürich), later occupied the Villa, which like those in Rieter Park was eventually acquired by the City of Zürich.

Above: Alfred Escher statue above fountain, Bahnhofplatz, Zürich

The Park is today open to the public and the Villa serves as a restaurant and school of catering.)

Belvoirpark – Wikipedia

Above: Villa Escher, Belvoir Park, Zürich

The Island of Tranquillity

Zürichsee stretches from the City of Zürich and the Limmat River as far south as the Seedamm at Rapperswil, beyond which point it is known as the Obersee (Upper Lake).

Within Zürich’s city boundaries the shores of the glacial lake contain many popular attractions, most notably Zürichhorn Park in Seefeld, where one can find the Johann Jacobs Museum (a shrine to coffee), the Centre Le Corbusier (the only structure of its kind in the world, a total work of art), the aforementioned Museum Bellerive, and the Chinese Garden.

Above: Zürichhorn

Above: Jean Tinguely’s Heureka, Zürichhorn

Johann Jacobs Museum Zürich.jpg

Above: Johann Jacabs Museum

Above: Centre Le Corbusier

Above: Chinese Garden

Budding Robinson Crusoes, however, might prefer to escape the crowds – and indeed the city – by boarding a ferry at Bürkliplatz and sailing down into the Canton of Schwyz to visit the historic island of Ufenau.

Above: Bürkliplatz

An hour and a half sailing time brings ferries to the south side of the island and it quickly becomes apparent that Ufenau offers an intimate experience, since it measures only 470 by 220 metres.

(Despite this, it is the largest island in Switzerland!)

A designated Insel der Stille (Island of Tranquillity), Ufenau has been a protected nature reserve since 1927, where swimming and camping are strictly forbidden.

Insel Ufenau, Ansicht vom Etzel (Berg)

Above: Ufenau Island, Zürichsee, Canton Schwyz

At the end of the jetty a wheelchair-friendly track signposted “Inselweg” makes an anticlockwise circuit of the Island.

Wikiloc | Picture of Insel Ufenau Inselweg 1 (1/2)

Above: Inselweg

The most prominent structure other than the popular restaurant Zu den Zwei Raben is the Church St. Peter and St. Paul, which was erected in the 1140s.

Restaurierung Haus zu den zwei Raben Insel Ufnau | Schweizer  Baudokumentation

Above: Restaurant Zu den Zwei Raben (of the two ravens), Ufenau Island

Documentary evidence points to an earlier church on the same site around 970, although worship here dates back farther than that.

Archaeologists have uncovered walls beneath the church that belonged to a Gallo-Roman temple from the 1st or 2nd century.

The temple was connected with the Roman trading centre of Centum Prata (today the modern village of Kempraten), which acted as a commercial centre on the alpine trade route out of Rome.

The route also included the Roman trading post of Turicum where modern Zürich now stands.

Even older Stone Age remains on the Island from around 4000 BC may also have had some religious significance.

St. Peter und Paul (Ufnau) – Wikipedia

Above: Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, Ufenau Island

The temple was destroyed sometime after the Roman withdrawl from the area in the early 400s.

Thereafter the first Christian church was probably erected on the former site of the temple during the 5th century.

The Island is first mentioned by name in 741, when it is referred to as the Island of Huphan.

After the first church was destroyed by the Huns around 900, Burchard II Duke of Swabia (917 – 926) appears on the scene.

Burchard II. (Würzburg)

In 919 he defeated King Randolph II of Upper Burgundy (912 – 937) and seized the area around Zürich.

Rudolph Burgundy.jpg

Above: Rudolph of Burgundy

Burchard’s son Adalrich died on Ufenau in 973 (he was canonized in 1659) and his wife was buried at Einsiedeln Abbey, to whom Ufenau was given in 965 by the Holy Roman Emperor Otto I (962 – 973).

The Island is still in the hands of the Abbey’s Benedictine monks and the wooden bridge straddling the Lake between nearby Rapperswil and Hurden is used by the Abbey’s pilgrims walking the Way of St. James (Jakobsweg).

The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul served for many years as parish church for the villagers of Lake Zürich’s upper shores, a task it shared with the more modest Chapel of St. Martin a few metres away from it.

Datei:St. Martinskapelle (Ufenau) 2011-07-25 17-09-36 ShiftN.jpg – Wikipedia

Above: St. Martin’s Chapel, Ufenau Island

In 1523 the pastor of Ufenau advised the leader of the Swiss Reformation Hildrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531) to offer sanctuary on Ufenau to the outspoken Lutheran reformer Ulrich von Hutten (1488 – 1523).

Ulrich von Hutten an Ufenau, wo er einen letzten Ausweg für Zwingli, Relief  an der Tür der Grossmünster ('große Münster') Kirche in Zürich vorbereitet  Stockfotografie - Alamy

Above: Relief of Ulrich von Hutten on door of Zürich’s Grossmünster

Hutten died on Ufenau two years later and is buried alongside the church, which since the 1980s has been flanked by a vineyard.

Ufnau Hutten Pfäffikon

Both church and chapel were damaged during the Second Villmergen War (Toggenburg War), waged between Reformed and Catholic Swiss cantons in 1712 from 12 April to 11 August.

Karte Zweiter Villmergerkrieg 1712.png

Above: Switzerland during the Toggenburg War: Protestants (green) / Catholics (yellow)

The Protestant side was successful, bringing to an end Catholic hegemony in the Old Swiss Confederacy, and staving off further conflict until civil war broke out again in 1847 (3 – 29 November), the Sonderbundskrieg (Sonderbund War) that led to the formation of Switzerland as a federal state in 1848.

Sonderbund War Map English.png

Since then peace and tranquillity has returned to the Island of Ufenau.

Above: Ufenau Island

From Ufenau Island I take a boat back to Burkliplatz.

I am in Zürich proper now and soon I shall, soberly as I can, consider the value of a man’s life and whether faith followed fanatically is wise in emulating….

Above: Grossmünster, Zürich

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / YouTube / Duncan J.D. Smith, Only in Zurich / Yvonne and Marcel Steiner, Zwingli Wege / http://www.iosweb.org

Canada Slim and the Land of Oblivion

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 17 February 2020

There is only one certainty in life:

Nothing is certain in life.

I have an ever-growing amount of writing projects that I wish to complete, but they are often delayed and sometimes replaced by other priorities that demand my time and attention.

One such unfinished self-assigned task is the writing (and continued incomplete exploration) of Alsace in France on the border with Germany and Switzerland.

Location of Alsace

In two previous installments in this blog…..

(Please see Canada Slim and the City at the Crossroads & Canada Slim and the Swedish Pinot of this blog.)

…..and a previous blogpost in my other blog (https://buildingeverest.wordpress.com)…..

(Please see Canada Slim and the Burning King in the Building Everest blog.)

…..I wrote of travelling along Alsace’s Wine Route, a winding ribbon of flower-bedecked villages stretching 170 kilometres from Cleebourg in the north to Thann in the south.

Image result for alsace route des vins map

In the three aforementioned blogposts, I wrote of my travels between Wissembourg to Drachenbronn-Birlerbach and including Strassbourg.

A general view of Wissembourg

Above: Wissembourg

Above: Strasbourg

Where most sensible folks would drive or take public transportation I attempted last summer (17 – 24 June 2019) to walk part of the length of the Bas-Rhin (lower Rhine) Département from Wissembourg to Saverne.

Château des Rohan

Above: Château des Rohan, Saverne

Improper footware resulted in blistered feet before my week’s journey ended, but I did my best at the start to walk as much as I could.

On Monday 17 June 2019, I travelled by train from Landschlacht to Wissembourg via Romanshorn, Zürich, Basel and Strasbourg.

On Tuesday 18 June 2019, I journeyed from Wissembourg to Seltz.

I have already described my walk from Wissembourg to Drachenbronn-Birlerbach.

What followed is what follows below…..

Seltz, Alsace, France, Tuesday 18 June 2018

While Iranian President Hassan Rouhani was trying to assure America that “Iran will not wage war against any nation.” after being accused by the United States of attacks on two oil tankers in the Gulf of Oman…..

Hassan Rouani 2017 portrait.jpg

Above: Iranian President Hassan Rouhani

While 41 people were being killed in an attack in the Yoro and Gangafani villages in Mali…..

Malian troops stand guard prior to the visit of the French Prime Minister at the Operation Barkane military French base in Gao, Mali, on February 24, 2019.

While Google announced that it was setting aside $750 million in land and $250 million in financing to encourage developers in the San Francisco area to build and rehabilitate housing in order to ease the homeless crisis in a region where Google has 45,000 employees…..

Each letter of "Google" is colored (from left to right) in blue, red, yellow, blue, green, and red.

While Boeing was selling 200 of its 737 MAX planes…..

Boeing full logo.svg

While Columbian authorities were deporting Venezuelan refugees from the border town of Cúcuta…..

Above: Cúcuta

While US federal appeal court judges from the 9th Circuit were hearing arguments concerning the holding of undocumented immigrant children in unsafe and unsanitary conditions…..

Seal of the United States Courts, Ninth Judicial Circuit.svg

While Donald Trump’s speech at a rally in Orlando was being billed as the official launch of his re-election campaign for the 2020 US presidential election…..

Melania and Donald Trump.

While Britain’s Conservative Party was in the midst of their leadership election…..

Graphic showing the results of the second ballot of Tory MPs

While Patrick Shanahan resigned as US Secretary of Defense…..

Patrick Shanahan.jpg

Above: Patrick Shanahan

…..I was walking the Maginot Line.

Image may contain: 1 person

The Maginot Line (French: Ligne Maginot), named after the French Minister of War André Maginot, is a line of concrete fortifications, obstacles and weapon installations built by France in the 1930s to deter invasion by Germany and force them to move around the fortifications.

Constructed on the French side of its borders with Italy, Switzerland, Germany and Luxembourg, the line did not extend to the English Channel due to French strategy that envisioned a move into Belgium to counter a German assault.

Based on France’s experience with trench warfare during World War I, the massive Maginot Line was built in the run-up to World War II, after the Locarno Conference gave rise to a fanciful and optimistic “Locarno spirit“.

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From left to right, Gustav Stresemann (Germany), Austen Chamberlain (Great Britain) and Aristide Briand (France) during the Locarno Conference

After the bitter experiences of the First World War, from which France had emerged victorious, but in the course of which large areas in the north and east of the country were devastated and 1.4 million dead and 3.5 million wounded were mourned, the decision was made to to protect the border against Germany and later also against Italy.

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Above: Scenes of World War One

The defense system was planned by the Minister of War, Paul Painlevé, and was built under his successor André Maginot between 1930 and 1932.

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Above: André Maginot (1877 – 1932) was a French civil servant, soldier, and Member of Parliament.

He is best known for his advocacy of the string of forts known as the Maginot Line.

After Hitler came to power, the system was expanded.

For a total of 700 km, 200 of them on the Alsatian-German border, ground-level, but mostly underground forts, artillery, infantry casemates, large shelters, observation bunkers, etc. were lined up, between which tank blocks and mine fields were built.

The individual facilities were not connected by corridors.

The larger fortresses, around so-called combat blocks with extendable turrets, ran through an often kilometer-long network of passages in which rails were laid in order to be able to transport the ammunition with wagons.

Their own power plants provided the necessary energy.

Up to 1,000 soldiers could be stationed here.

Dormitories, showers, canteen kitchens, medical wards and even wine cellars were set up for them.

The smaller casemates were occupied by up to 20 soldiers.

Above: The view of the village of Lembach in Alsace (northeast), taken from the combat unit number 5 of the fortress ouvrage Four-à-Chaux

French military experts extolled the Line as a work of genius that would deter German aggression, because it would slow an invasion force long enough for French forces to mobilise and counterattack.

The Maginot Line was impervious to most forms of attack, including aerial bombings and tank fire, and had underground railways as a backup.

It also had state-of-the-art living conditions for garrisoned troops, supplying air conditioning and eating areas for their comfort.

Above: Combat block 1 at the ouvrage Four à Chaux, showing signs of German testing of explosives inside some fortresses between 1942 and 1944

Instead of attacking directly, the Germans invaded through the Low Countries, completely bypassing the Line to the north.

French and British officers had anticipated this:

When Germany invaded the Netherlands and Belgium, they carried out plans to form an aggressive front that cut across Belgium and connected to the Maginot Line.

However, the French line was weak near the Ardennes forest.

Above: Location of the Ardennes

Above: View of the Meuse in the French Ardennes

Marshal Maurice Gamelin, when drafting the Dyle Plan, believed this region, with its rough terrain, would be an unlikely invasion route of German Forces.

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Above: Maurice Gamelin (1872 – 1958) was a French army general in the French Army.

(Gamelin is remembered for his disastrous command (until 17 May 1940) of the French military during the Battle of France (10 May–22 June 1940) in World War II and his steadfast defence of republican values.

The Commander-in-chief of the French Armed Forces at the start of World War II, Gamelin was viewed as a man with significant intellectual ability.

He was respected, even in Germany, for his intelligence and “subtle mind“, though he was viewed by some German generals as stiff and predictable.

Despite this, and his competent service in World War I, his command of the French armies during the critical days of May 1940 proved to be disastrous.

Historian and journalist William L. Shirer presented the view that Gamelin used World War I methods to fight World War II, but with less vigor and slower response.)

(The Dyle Plan or Plan D was the plan of the Commander-in-Chief of the French Army, Général d’armée Maurice Gamelin to defeat a German attempt to invade France through Belgium.

The Dyle (Dijle) river is 86 km (53 mi) long, from Houtain-le-Val through Flemish Brabant and Antwerp.

Gamelin intended French, British and Belgian troops to halt a German invasion force along the line of the river.

The Franco-Belgian Accord of 1920 had co-ordinated communication and fortification efforts of both armies.

The Belgian government let the accord lapse after the German Remilitarization of the Rhineland on 7 March 1936, to adopt a policy of strict neutrality, with the German Army (Heer) on the Belgian border.)

If the Ardennes were traversed, it would be done at a slow rate that would allow the French time to bring up reserves and counterattack.

The German Army, having reformulated their plans from a repeat of the First World War-era plan, became aware of and exploited this weak point in the French defensive front.

A rapid advance through the forest and across the River Meuse encircled much of the Allied forces, resulting in a sizeable force being evacuated at Dunkirk leaving the forces to the south unable to mount an effective resistance to the German invasion of France.

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Above: Allied evacuation of Dunkirk

Opinions differ on the effect of the Maginot Line, which is sometimes even compared to the Great Wall of China.

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Above: The Great Wall of China at Jinshanling

In 1940 the Germans simply bypassed it.

They disregarded Belgium’s neutrality and invaded France from the north.

Many of the fortifications, however, could not be captured despite the most violent bombing.

Their crews surrendered only days after the armistice came into force on the orders of the French High Command.

The Line has since become a metaphor for expensive efforts that offer a false sense of security.

After the war the line was re-manned by the French and underwent some modifications.

With the rise of the French independent nuclear weapons by 1960 the line became an expensive anachronism.

Some of the larger ouvrages were converted to command centres.

When France withdrew from NATO’s military component (in 1966) much of the line was abandoned, with the NATO facilities turned back over to French forces and the rest of it auctioned-off to the public or left to decay.

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A number of old fortifications have now been turned into wine cellars, a mushroom farm and even a disco.

Besides that, a few private houses are built atop some of the blockhouses.

Ouvrage Rochonvillers was retained by the French Army as a command centre into the 1990s, but was deactivated following the disappearance of the Soviet threat.

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Above: Bloc 5 of the Ouvrage Rochonvillers

Ouvrage Hochwald is the only facility in the main line that remains in active service, as a hardened command facility for the French Air Force known as Drachenbronn Air Base.

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Above: Maginot Line – Ouvrage Hochwald (Lower Rhine, France), Block 6. Artillery casemate block for 3 75mm model 29 guns

In 1968 when scouting locations for On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, producer Harry Saltzman used his French contacts to gain permission to use portions of the Maginot Line as SPECTRE headquarters in the film.

Saltzman provided art director Syd Cain with a tour of the complex, but Cain said that not only would the location be difficult to light and film inside, but that artificial sets could be constructed at the studios for a fraction of the cost.

The idea was shelved.

A man in a dinner jacket on skis, holding a gun. Next to him is a red-headed woman, also on skis and with a gun. They are being pursued by men on skis and a bobsleigh, all with guns. In the top left of the picture are the words FAR UP! FAR OUT! FAR MORE! James Bond 007 is back!

Today, the military is no longer interested in the facilities, some casemates serve as storage rooms for farmers, mushrooms are grown in some forts, grenade launcher turrets have been removed, and the metal is often recycled for other purposes.

Few of the once 2,000 buildings in Alsace have been restored by the Association des Amis de la Ligne Maginot d’Alsace and are now accessible to interested visitors:

  • the Esch (near Hatten) infantry casemate
  • the Schoenenbourg artillery
  • the Four à Chaux fortification near Lembach
  • the casemates Dambach-Neunhoffen and Marckolsheim.

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I had walked from Wissembourg that morning to Drachenbronn and was still quite distant (in walking terms) from my pre-arranged hotel accommodation in Seltz.

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But I was determined, I was gung-ho, I had gumption.

I would reach Seltz before darkness descended if I was not distracted en route.

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I would be distracted….

For the Maginot Line would remind me of how Alsace has been, for generations, a battlefield.

Ouvrage Schoenenbourg is a Maginot Line fortification.

It is located on the territory of the communes of Hunspach, Schœnenbourg and Ingolsheim, in the French département of Bas-Rhin, forming part of the Fortified Sector of Haguenau, facing Germany.

At the east end of the Alsace portion of the Maginot Line, its neighbour is the gros ouvrage Hochwald.

It is the largest such fortification open to the public in Alsace.

Officially recorded as an historical monument, it retains all its original structural elements.

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Above: The main entrance to Ouvrage Schoenenbourg

In 1938, soldiers were bored guarding the Maginot line, against the Germans who were not coming.

Two generals sponsored a subscription to flower the casemates.

In a few months, 10,000 roses were planted.

The Germans continued to make cannons.

Their tanks did not respect flower beds.

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Schoenenbourg was heavily bombarded during the Battle of France in 1940, receiving more enemy ordinance than any other position in France, with no significant damage.

The fortification at Schoenenbourg is the one that saw the most combat between September 1939 and June 1940.

Over this period, over 17,000 shells were fired from the fort, and it was itself the target of over 3000 shells and 160 bombs.

Schoenenbourg was in action against the German 146th Infantry Division, which applied pressure along the Line.

On 19 June 1940, German Stukas attacked Schoenenbourg and other ouvrages, returning on the 20th and 21st.

The attacks on 21 June were joined by a bombardment with 420 mm siege mortars, lasting three days.

The bombardment cracked walls, but did not disable the position.

Schoenenbourg fired during this period in support of nearby casemates, not seriously affected by the bombardments.

Schoenenbourg’s turrets were retracted to receive the heavy shells, and raised during the lengthy reloading period for counter-battery fire.

The inventory of German ordnance fired against Schoenenbourg was assessed after the armistice, and found to comprise 160 aerial bombs, 50 42 cm shells, 33 28 cm shells, and approximately 3000 smaller projectiles, the most ammunition used against any fortification in France.

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The Ouvrage de Schoenenbourg was one of the most fought in June 1940.

From 3 September 1939 to 25 June 1940, the Guardians of Schoenenbourg shot 15,792 grenades of 75 mm caliber and 682 of 81 mm caliber.

That was a total of 16,474 grenades in 10 months, of which 13,388 in 10 days (from June 14 to 25), including 723 120mm-sized grenades.

During this time, the plant received 56 hits from 420 mm grenades, 33 from 280 mm grenades, 160 from aerial bombs and 3,000 from 105 or 150 mm grenades.

The final surrender of Schoenenbourg was effected on 1 July 1940, in accordance with the terms of the Second Compiègne armistice.

Above: Hitler (hand on hip) and German high-ranked Nazis and officers staring at WWI French marshall Maréchal Foch’s memorial statue before entering the railway carriage in order to start the negotiations for the 1940 armistice at Rethondes in the Compiègne forest, France.

The armistice will only be signed the next day (June 22), Hitler being absent, by General Keitel on the German side and by General Huntziger on the French side.

Screenshot taken from the 1943 United States Army propaganda film Divide and Conquer (Why We Fight #3) directed by Frank Capra and partially based on news archives, animations, restaged scenes and captured propaganda material from both sides.

Above: Ferdinand Foch’s Railway Car, at the same location as after World War One, prepared by the Germans for the second armistice at Compiègne, June 1940

Following the surrender Schoenenbourg was used as a backdrop for propaganda films and as an indoctrination center for Hitler Youth.

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Above: Flag of the Hitler Youth

In 1945, retreating German troops used explosives to destroy much of the ouvrage.

No fighting took place in the area of Schoenenbourg during the American advances of 1945, but the retreating Germans of the 245th Infantry Division caused extensive damage in March, using explosives to wreck the entrances and turrets, along with a number of nearby casemates.

The US 36th Infantry Division took possession of the damaged ouvrage on 20 March 1945.

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Above: Ensignia of the US 36th Infantry

After the War it was fully repaired and placed back into service as part of a programme to use Maginot fortifications to resist a potential Warsaw Pact advance through Europe.

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Above: Logo of the Warsaw Treaty Organization of Friendship, Cooperation and Mutual Assistance

In the 1950s interest in the Maginot Line was renewed.

In 1951, Lembach, Four-à-Chaux, Hochwald and Schoenenbourg were designated the Môle de Haguenau, a point of resistance against a potential invasion by forces of the Warsaw Pact.

Lembach was repaired and put in a state of readiness in 1951-52.

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Above: Four à Chaux, Lembach

Wartime damage was repaired.

The reconstructed entries took on a form that was modified from the original design, using the old foundations.

By the late 1950s interest in fixed fortifications was waning after France developed a nuclear deterrent.

The money needed to maintain and upgrade the fortifications was diverted for the nuclear programs.

Schoenenbourg was not manned or maintained after the early 1970s.

By the 1970s the plan had lost favour and funding.

Schoenenbourg was abandoned.

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In 1987 a local organisation undertook Schoenenbourg’s preservation and today it is open to public visitation.

In 1987 the French Army allowed the Association des Amis de la Ligne Maginot d’Alsace (Alsace Association of Friends of the Maginot Line) to conduct tours of the fortification.

From 1987 the group has worked to restore Schoenenbourg.

The gallery system was used by the army for training until 2001 and the surface hosted three field emplacements for anti-aircraft missiles.

On 4 September 2001, Schoenenbourg was the first gros ouvrage to be sold by the Ministry of Defense to a local community.

And it is the local community of nearby Schoenenbourg village that determines when the Ouvrage is open.

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Above: The Village of Schoenenbourg

Tours, for safety reasons, are no longer self-guided.

Prepared with warm clothing, the Visitor should be also prepared to be impressed by the underground facilities, once garrisoned by 620 soldiers at any given time.

The Fort with its three kilometres of underground galleries, equipment, infrastructure, casemates and towers, kitchens, machine rooms, the infirmary and all the living quarters have been restored in graphic detail.

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Mannequins in uniform sleep in the dormitories or gorge themselves on local produce.

The huge underground fortress belonging to the Ligne Maginot is very close to the village of Schoenenbourg.

A staircase takes you about 30 meters down, first you visit the supply bunker with a fully equipped team kitchen (there was even a potato peeling machine), barracks and power station and then walk about one kilometer along the rails to one of the battle bunkers with a retractable armored turret.

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The Fort is open every day for organized groups.

Individual visitors are admitted from 1 April to 31 October.

As the right cornerstone of the Maginot line, the Schoenenbourg group is a typical medium-sized artillery group (size class 2).

The shell was built from 1930 to 1933.

In 1935 the interior and armament were installed.

They were further improved and would have been expanded beyond 1940.

Most parts of the plant are 17 to 30 m underground.

Only the two factory entrances and the battle bunkers are on the surface of the earth.

The two entrances, one for the crew and one for the material delivery, are on the opposite side of a hill.

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Shafts with stairs and elevators lead from the entrance structures to the underground parts of the factory.

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There is a barracks with a kitchen and a hospital, a power plant, workshops, ammunition depots and command posts.

There was a narrow gauge railway in the plant that transported the material from the material entrance through a tunnel over 1 km long to the combat blocks.

The battle bunkers on the enemy side in the hill consist of two side-flanking infantry casemates (blocks 1 and 6), a retractable MG tank tower, two retractable tank towers with cannons and a retractable tank tower with a grenade launcher.

Above: Cross-section of a 75mm combat block showing the operation of the turret

The crew consisted of about 20 officers, 70 non-commissioned officers and 500 team ranks.

The crew size often fluctuated between 510 and 630 men. 183 of the crew, including about eight officers, were infantry, 230 men including ten artillery officers and 133 men including two to three officers were pioneers and members of the utility services.

Some of the crew were handed over to the Hoffen, Aschbach and Hatten observation bunkers as artillery observers.

The work group was commanded in 1939/40 by Major Reynier, who was supported by Captain Cortasse as the commander of the factory artillery, Captain Kieffer as the commander of the infantry and Captain Straw as the pioneer commander.

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The individual systems of the work group and their armament:
– Block 1: Infantry Casemate North. 1 × 4.7-cm-Pak (Canon de 47 mm AC modèle 1934), 2 twin MGs, 2 MG armored domes.
– Block 2: MG tank tower. 1 twin machine gun in tank tower, 1 machine gun dome.
– Block 3: Panzerturm. 2 × 7.5 cm howitzer (model R 32), 1 MG armored dome.
– Block 4: Panzerturm. 2 × 7.5 cm howitzer (model R 32), 1 observation dome, 1 MG armored dome.
– Block 5: tank tower. 2 × 8.1 cm grenade launchers, 1 grenade launcher dome, 1 MG tank dome.
– Block 6: Infantry casemate south. 1 × 4.7 cm pak, 1 twin machine gun, 1 machine gun dome.
– Block 7: Ammunition entrance. 1 × 4.7 cm pak, 1 twin machine gun, 2 machine gun domes.
– Block 8: Team entrance. 1 × 4.7-cm-Pak, 1 twin machine gun, 1 grenade launcher dome, 1 MG tank dome.

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The original planning had planned two artillery casemates, each with two 7.5 cm howitzers, which were to act as flanks, and an artillery armored turret as a frontal defense.

Because of the flat terrain, the two mighty gun casemats were replaced by armored turrets and their number was reduced from three to two.

A tank tower with two 13.5-cm howitzers, moved as combat block 9 to the second construction phase, was never built because the outbreak of the war meant that the second construction phase was not realized.

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During normal operation, the Maginot Line plants were supplied with 22,000 volts from the outside via an underground cable.

Because an interruption in the external power supply had to be expected in the event of war, all plants were equipped with their own power plants.

Many functions of a Maginot plant depended on the supply of electricity:
– Lighting (approx. 2000 lamps)
– Transport (six elevators, two electric locomotives)
– Message transmission (radio, telephone, machine telegraph)
– Ventilation (35 fans)
– Water supply (ten pumps)
– Operation of the turrets
– Kitchen (electric stove, boiler, etc.)

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There were four diesel generators in the machine room of the power plant.

Two generators were sufficient for normal operation.

When the plant was in a fight, a third generator was switched on to compensate for the increased energy requirements due to the lifting, lowering and turning of the armored turrets, the more frequent ammunition lifts, the increased traffic of the electric narrow-gauge railways and the increased use of ventilation.

The fourth generator was in reserve.

In the event of a sudden power failure, a small emergency generator was available in the power plant for a black start, which could be started manually and only supplied the power plant with power until the large diesel generators could be started.

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These units were diesel engines from Sulzer with four cylinders each and a total output of 117.68 kW with a consumption of 20 liters of fuel per hour.

They were started using compressed air.

Each engine drove a generator that delivered 115 kVA in 440 volts.

All four generators could optionally be coupled together.

The very robust engines came from submarines and were dismantled by the German Wehrmacht for this purpose after the plant was abandoned.

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The power station also has a transforming and transformer station that spans the 440 volt alternating current into 110 volt alternating current for the lighting network, 600 volt direct current for the electric locomotives and 3000 volts for the supply of the combat blocks.

Due to the higher voltage, the transmission losses were reduced, in the combat blocks the 3000 volts were switched over again according to your own needs.

In addition to the machine room and the forming station, the power plant also includes workshops, offices, spare parts stores and large storage tanks for 96,000 liters of diesel oil, 184,000 liters of cooling water and 6,000 liters of lubricating oil.

The main ventilation of the plant with a filter room is also housed here.

In an emergency, all of the plant’s electrically operated facilities could also be operated by hand.

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Because of the dramatic events that forced the surrender of Fort Vaux during the First World War, because the garrison was close to dying of thirst, special attention was paid to the water supply of the Maginot works.

Above: Fort Vaux, Verdun

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Above: The exhausted defenders of Fort Vaux

The Schoenenbourg plant had 263,000 liters available in 14 reservoirs.

These reservoirs were fed from a 117 meter deep well that guaranteed the independence of the plant.

Also, when the tunnel was driven, three water veins were cut, which were caught and added to the water supply.

The barracks are located near the team entrance and not far from the power station.

It housed accommodation for crews and officers, the kitchen, the hospital, washrooms and showers, the clothing store, and food and drinking water supplies.

There were toilets in every battle block.

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In the main command center, all communications came together.

The reports from the individual combat blocks and also from other bunkers and plants were recorded and evaluated here.

Here was the fortress commander’s room and the telephone exchange, which was also in constant communication with the radio room, which was in the ammunition entrance for technical reasons.

Once the reports received had been evaluated and there was an overview of the situation, the fire control center of the artillery issued the commands to the combat blocks.

The commands were issued from here via machine telegraphs directly to the gun turrets.

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So it often only took a few minutes from a reported enemy sighting to opening  fire.

It was the local community volunteers who encountered a certain tall, thirsty Canadian hiker that horribly warm Tuesday afternoon.

When I arrived all tired and thirsty, hot (high 20°s) and bothered, as Google Maps and poor signage had been distinctly unhelpful in navigating through the Outre Fôret, I was informed that I was too early for a guided tour and that the tour would last two hours and that the warren labyrinth of tunnels required a guided tour.

Having to wait two hours for a tour and being still four hours’ walking distance away from Seltz and my pre-booked hotel room, I regretably had to give the Fort a pass.

The voluntary guides were obliging enough to allow me to drink a belly full of cold water and to refill my water bottle, but I was deeply saddened not to be able to have the opportunity to hear the human side of these fortifications beyond the facts I had previously garnered.

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A few kilometres away from the Fort I see a sign at the entrance to the town of Hunspach (population: 700) which informs the visitor that he has arrived in one of the most beautiful villages in France.

Hunspach can be rightly proud of their blossom-white plastered half-timbered houses from the 18th and 19th centuries with characteristic gable canopies and large courtyards.

Together they form a picturesque ensemble.

Main Street in Hunspach

Still one of the most attractive villages that I have seen, Hunspach was rebuilt by the Swiss after the ravages of the Thirty Years War (which perhaps explains this solemnity and cleanliness of the place).

Some curious details to note:

Several residences have curved panes which formerly allowed residents to see outside while preserving their privacy.

Hunspach

The village is a member of the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The most beautiful villages of France) association.

Hunspach has retained much of its traditional architecture.

The houses are white and in the Alsatian half timbered style.

Open central yards offer glimpses of the working farms within.

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Hunspach really deserves attention.

Without being particularly spectacular, it exudes a great sweetness of life.

Above all, it is not a village museum, unlike many listed villages.

It is a village that lives!

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Everywhere in the village, old draw wells remind us that water once had to be laboriously brought into the houses by hand.

The Hunspacher are also tradition-conscious when it comes to eating.

For Sunday breakfast, the thick cake, a yeast pastry, is served almost everywhere, and every housewife has her family recipe for the village specialty Flaaschknepfle (meatballs in white sauce).

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The only famous personality that Hunspach seems to have produced is Hans Adam Rott.

Hans Adam Rott (1876 – 1942) was a German historian, especially an art historian.

He was the director of the Baden State Museum in Karlsruhe for many years.

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Above: Baden State Museum (Badisches Landesmuseum), Karlsruhe

After attending grammar school in Weissenburg, Hans Rott initially studied law at the University of Freiburg, where he obtained his PhD.

Subsequently, he studied history, art history and church history at the University of Heidelberg, where he earned another doctorate in 1904 with a thesis on Friedrich II.

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Above: Friedrich II (1482 – 1556), also known as Frederick the Wise, a member of the Wittelsbach dynasty, was Prince-Elector of the Palatinate from 1544 to 1556.

In 1906 Rott undertook a trip through Asia Minor to research the Christian monuments there.

Rott succeeded Max Wingenroth as assistant to the director at the Badisches Landesmuseum in Karlsruhe in 1909, where he also worked on the inventory of Baden art monuments.

From 1919 until his retirement in 1938, he was director of the State Museum.

He was awarded the title of Professor for his services.

He researched and published primarily in the field of art history in Baden and southwestern Germany at the time of the transition from late Gothic to the Renaissance, for which he mainly evaluated archival sources.

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Above: Hunspach, Rott’s birthplace

The next village (population: 1,200) I visited first appears in surviving records in 1052 as Hoffen.

Hof is a Germanic word denoting a farm, a homestead or a settlement.

The village coat of arms comes from the Trautwein family who founded Hof: the family died out in 1664.

Blason de Hoffen

The story of Hof has been a turbulent one.

In the 14th century there were two settlements: Hoven comprised a dozen farms and Buren just four houses.

These were the property of St Peter the Younger in Strasbourg.

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Above: Church of St. Peter the Younger, Strasbourg

However, in 1450, the villages were surrendered to the lords of Hohenbourg and Fleckenstein.

Above: Château de Hohenbourg, Alsace

Above: Chateau de Fleckenstein, Alsace

Then from the end of the 15th century possession of these settlements passed into the hands of the Counts of Zweibrücken.

During the 17th century Hoffen became attached to the Bailiwick of Cleebourg.

Cleebourg

Above: Cleebourg, Alsace

The Thirty Years War (1618 – 1648) was devastating for many villages in Alsace, and in 1633 the hamlet of Buren disappeared following the passing of Imperial Catholic troops.

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Above: Illustration from Jacques Callot’s Les Grandes Misères de la Guerre (The Great Miseries of the War), 1632

There were further destructive wars for much of the 18th century, but 1748 probably marked the end of the most deadly of them all for Alsace.

Many villages were left depopulated and were subsequently resettled by migrants from Switzerland, higher up the river Rhine or from other parts of France which emerged from the war in possession of most of the major towns and cities in Alsace, and controlled the whole province by the time of Louis XIV’s death in 1715.

In September 1939 the population of Hoffen was evacuated to Haute Vienne as the government reluctantly planned for another territorial struggle with Germany.

In 1974 the communes of Leiterswiller, Hoffen and Hermerswiller merged.

Hoffen is a typical and charming village with its flowering houses of geraniums, its portals and its wooden balconies.

Hoffen

I like the main square and the old half-timbered town hall, with an elegant wooden gallery on columns.

Next door, I see a majestic lime tree planted during the Revolution.

The town hall in Hoffen

Above: City Hall, Hoffen

By the time I leave Hoffen I find myself feeling worried.

I am still, according to my calculations, three hours’ walking distance from Seltz, and the sun will be setting soon.

I really don’t wish to be walking in darkness in unfamiliar territory and as it seems that my slow ambling at the Fort and in the picturesque hamlets of Hunspach and Hoffen, I decide to chance getting a lift with a driver to Seltz.

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His name is Thierry Labbé.

He is a phys-ed teacher at a high school in Hagenau heading home to Hatten and welcomed the distraction of a Canadian hitchhiker on this oft-travelled commute.

Above: Hagenau, Alsace

(He knew I was Canadian as I sported my flag on my backpack.

Subsequent questioning and my ability to speak French confirmed my status.)

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.

Thierry volunteered to drive me right to the door of my hotel outside Seltz even though this was several kilometres away from his original destination.

Our journey took us right through Hatten and past Esch.

Hatten marks the start of the Outre Fôret in the north of the Bas-Rhin, at the northern edge of the Haguenau forest.

The town, although located in the plain of Alsace, has a hilly type relief.

A collection of Neolithic objects has been unearthed beneath the town hall.

The Hatten chariot tomb attests to the geographical belonging of the tumuli culture of middle Europe.

However, it is necessary to consider globally the extensive site of the Hatten forest and the Bois de l’Hospital, a necropolis of more than 300 mounds identified.

The first cartular occurrence of the temporal possessions of Wissembourg Abbey mentions this village-domain for a few scattered properties.

The village initially belonged to the county of Alsace and was in the Hattgau.

In 1332 the Lords of Lichtenberg bought it together with a number of other villages and rights.

The office had developed in the 14th century and was an office of the Lichtenberg rule, from 1480 Hanau-Lichtenberg county, from which it passed to Hesse-Darmstadt county in 1736.

Hatten Castle was built by the Lichtenbergers before 1354.

It was handed over to the Kurpfalz by the Lichtenbergers and received back as a fief.

The local farmers saw themselves as free farmers. So they had no need to get urban liberties.

They were already free.

That is why Hatten was never granted city rights – in contrast to other larger places under the Lichtenberg rule.

Anna von Lichtenberg (1442 – 1474) married Count Philipp I the Elder of Hanau-Babenhausen (1417 – 1480) in 1458.

The county of Hanau-Lichtenberg was formed through the marriage.

After the death of the last Lichtenberger, Count Jakob, an uncle of Anna, Philipp I ruled Hanau-Lichtenberg, which also included Hatten.

This remained under the authority of the Landgraves of Basse-Alsace before being sold to the powerful lords of Lichtenberg in 1332.

They bequeathed it to their heirs, the Hanau-Lichtenberg in 1448, then the Hesse-Darmstadt in 1736.

Count Philip IV of Hanau-Lichtenberg (1514-1590) consistently carried out the Reformation in his county after he took office in 1538, which now became Lutheran.

Around 1680 parts of the county of Hanau-Lichtenberg in Alsace fell under the sovereignty of France, including Hatten.

In 1736 Count Johann Reinhard III, the last male representative of the Hanau Family died.

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Due to the marriage of his only daughter, Charlotte (1700 – 1726), to Prince Ludwig (1691 – 1768) of Hesse-Darmstadt.

Before the Revolution, Hatten was the capital of a bailiwick grouping ten villages.

It was animated by an almost negligible commercial life, apart from three big annual fairs.

As a result of the French Revolution, the part of Hanau-Lichtenberg on the left bank of the Rhine – and thus also Hatten – fell to France.

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Above: Storming of the Bastille

During the demographic peak in 1849, with 2,139 inhabitants, the town hosted various houses of trade in fabrics, iron, wood and wine, in addition to a notary and a collector of direct contributions.

The village was even the seat of a small Protestant consistory of the Augsburg Confession, since it counted among its population 1,131 Protestants and 22 Anabaptists for 765 Catholics and 222 Jews.

Above: Europe, 1618

From 1871 until the end of the First World War, the municipality belonged to the German Empire as part of the Empire of Alsace-Lorraine and was assigned to the district of Weissenburg in Lower Alsace.

During the German Belle Époque, a brigade of gendarmes, three doctors, a pharmacy, a bookstore, a savings bank, a public cash register, grain wholesalers, hops, cattle, wood and charcoal were added.

In 1939, Hatten was on the Maginot Line, so as a precaution the 1,500 inhabitants of the village were evacuated to Château Ponsac in Limousin by the French authorities.

They left behind everything that didn’t fit in a suitcase.

But luckily, the village did not suffer then.

So in 1940, the inhabitants of Hatten were able to return to Alsace, then annexed by the Germans.

On 13 December 1944, after 4 years of occupation, the village was liberated without fighting by the Americans and the inhabitants then felt safe.

But on 1 January 1945, the Germans launched one of their last war offensives, Operation Nordwind, which aimed, among other things, to reconquer Strasbourg.

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Hatten was then a must for the German tanks and, during the tank battles between Germans and Americans between 8 and 20 January, the village was almost entirely destroyed by a succession of tank fighting, with the enormous power of American artillery fire completing the destruction operation.

Indeed, after 12 days of fighting, of the 365 houses in the village then, 350 were destroyed.

2,500 soldiers and 83 civilians were killed there.

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After the war, the martyred village was rebuilt.

A bunker museum and a commemorative plaque in the center of the church testify to the losses.

The town of Hatten is actually an unassuming residential village, but if you are interested in military history and the Ligne Maginot, you will see a lot here.

The Cour de Marie is a delightful and atypical museum which pays homage to village traditions with agricultural equipment, Raynal dolls, baby carriages, 19th century sewing machines, gallery radio sets….

Not forgetting the hairdressing salon and the grocery store from the 1950s.

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In the west of the village, an open-air museum has been set up on the site of a former large shelter.

This shelter museum (Museé de l’abri) is set up in a large bunker, which the French military built in 1930 as a defensive structure against the German Empire and which was given to a volunteer association for use in the 1990s.

The museum is not subsidized by the state and is financed by donations and entrance fees.

Hatten

Their exhibition concept is unusual:

It sees itself as a museum against oblivion.

Therefore, relics from the Second World War have been gathered from everywhere, including from Germany.

Among other things, models illustrate the devastating tank battle at Hatten in January 1945.

The documents on everyday life during the Second World War are particularly impressive.

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To the east of the village you can also visit the Casemate d’Esch with two restored original rooms and a small exhibition.

Built in 1931, Casemate Esch was occupied by the 23rd Fortress Infantry Regiment, which assisted in combat in June 1940 during the enemy attack on the Aschbach and Oberroedern casemates.

In January 1945, Esch was successively taken and retaken by the Germans and Americans and was the scene of fierce fighting of which it still bears traces today.

Above: Casemate Esch

After a pleasant drive and conversation where he explained to me the sites we passed, Thierry left me at my hotel, asking me to befriend him on Facebook.

The Hôtel des Bois in Seltz is a quiet resting place near the German border with:

  • 15 rooms
  • 4 studios
  • 1 apartment

All are on offer for an overnight or a longer stay.

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The Hôtel did its best to provide for my comfort.

The front desk is open 24 hours and free Wi-Fi access is provided in the entire hotel.

Bicycle storage and free private parking are possible on site.

All the rooms were renovated in 2017.

Though they would offer breakfast in a well-lit dining hall, supper had to be catch-as-catch-can from the Super U mall besides Autoroute A35.

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The A35 autoroute is a toll free, 137 km / 116-mile long highway in northeastern France.

It is also known as the Autoroute des cigognes (storks) and the Voie Rapide du Piémont des Vosges.

It connects the German border in the Rhine valley with the Swiss frontier via Strasbourg.

The road forms part of European routes E25 and E60.

At the northern end, where the road reaches the German frontier, it becomes a single carriageway road controlled by a speed camera.

On the German side of the frontier, plans to build a final stretch of Autobahn to connect the French A35 directly with the German A65 at Kandel were not implemented during the 1990s when the focus of Autobahn construction switched to the eastern side of the country.

The project remains unimplemented:

It is contentious because of the ecological impact it could have on the Bienwald (wooded area) through which the road would run.

Cartouche de la route

My hotel was on the western end of town.

What was worth exploring was to the east.

And the subject of a future post…..

Flag of Alsace

Above: Flag of Alsace

Canada Slim and the Elastic Novice

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 17 September 2019

Damn that man!

One man’s writings has had and continue to have a major effect on my life and this has been reflected in my travels and I have already spoken of the man previously in this blog.

 

Charles Dickens

Above: Charles Dickens, New York, 1867

 

(Please see Canada Slim and the Dickensian Moment – first published as “Goodbye, Charles” on 9 June 2015.)

 

(As one of the shortest and woefully inadequate posts I have ever written, expect to see an updated version of “Goodbye, Charles” as soon as possible and the addition of another post that continues the chronicle of my first travels in Europe last described in Canada Slim and the Promised Land – first published as “That which survives 3: The promised land“.)

 

It was he who made me decide to first enter Britain via Broadstairs.

 

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Above: Dickens House Museum, Broadstairs

 

It was he who compelled me to convince my good friends Samantha and Iain to visit his birthplace in Portsmouth.

 

Above: Charles Dickens Birthplace Museum, Portsmouth

 

It was he who inspired me to first find the courage to write.

 

It was he whose footsteps I was determined to trace during my visit to London in the last week of October 2017.

 

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My wife had purchased for us two London Passes, offering free entry to over 60 attractions, as well as free public transport on buses, on the Tube, and on trains.

She strongly suggested I use mine as much as possible during the time when she was attending her medical conference.

 

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26 October was the first day that I would have a chance to view London on my own.

I had, following the Passbook alphabetically, already visited the BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Manhir that morning, so my next goal was the Charles Dickens Museum in the Bloomsbury district.

 

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Above: BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir

 

(For previous posts on London, please see….

Canada Slim….

  • and the Paddington Arrival
  • and the Street Walked Too Often
  • Underground
  • and the Outcast
  • and the Wonders on the Wall
  • and the Calculated Cathedral
  • and the Right Man
  • and the Queen’s Horsemen
  • and the Royal Peculiar
  • and the Lamp Ladies
  • and the Uncertainty Principle
  • and the Museum of Many
  • and the Breviary of Bartholew
  • and the Body Snatchers
  • and the Freudian Slippers
  • and the Mandir of Nose Hill )

 

 

London, England, 26 October 2017

Few cities are as closely associated with one writer as London is with Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870).

The recurrent motifs in his novels have become the clichés of Victorian London (though Dickens was active and successful before Queen Victoria came to the throne) – the fog, the slums and alleys, the prisons and workhouses and the stinking river.

Drawing on his own personal experience, Dickens was able to describe  the workings of the law and the conditions of the poor with an unrivalled accuracy.

 

Above: Charles Dickens, 1850

 

Born in Portsmouth (Please see Canada Slim and the Dickensian Moment.), Dickens was the second of eight children.

His father, John Dickens, was a clerk who worked for the Navy and had set up home in Portsmouth with his wife Elizabeth.

 

A view of Old Portsmouth taken from the viewing deck of the Spinnaker Tower. Old buildings, cobbled streets and a small island can be seen in the frame.

Above: Old Portsmouth

 

In 1817 John was posted to the dockyard in Chatham.

John and his family took a full part in the life of the community.

They were friendly with neighbours and with the family of a local landlord.

 

Charles and his sister Fanny were frequently set up by their father atop a table in the Mitre Inn to entertain the tavern with songs and ballads of the day.

It was in Chatham that Charles began his education.

 

Above: Chatham Dockyard

 

His widowed aunt Mary Allen married for a second time while the Dickens family were in Chatham.

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Above: 2 Ordnance Terrace, Chatham (Dickens’ home: 1817 – 1821)

 

This was to a widowed doctor, Matthew Lambert, who had a son Matthew, a little older than Charles and became a great influence upon this early part of Charles’ life, for it was Matthew who introduced Charles to the wonders of the theatre.

This was the beginning of a lifelong passion.

I tried to recollect whether I had ever been in any theatre in my life from which I had not brought away some pleasant association, however poor the theatre, and I protest, I could not remember even one.

In fact, Charles always had a great relish for bad theatre.

 

Allow me to introduce myself—first negatively.

No landlord is my friend and brother.

No chambermaid loves me.

No waiter worships me.

No boots admires and envies me. 

No round of beef or tongue or ham is expressly cooked for me.

No pigeon pie is especially made for me.

No hotel advertisement is personally addressed to me.

No hotel room tapestried with great coats and railway wrappers is set apart for me.

No house of public entertainment in the United Kingdom greatly cares for my opinion of its brandy or sherry. 

When I go upon my journeys, I am not usually rated at a low figure in the bill.

When I come home from my journeys, I never get any commission. 

I know nothing about prices, and should have no idea, if I were put to it, how to wheedle a man into ordering something he doesn’t want. 

As a town traveller, I am never to be seen driving a vehicle externally like a young and volatile pianoforte van, and internally like an oven in which a number of flat boxes are baking in layers. 

As a country traveller, I am rarely to be found in a gig, and am never to be encountered by a pleasure train, waiting on the platform of a branch station, quite a Druid in the midst of a light Stonehenge of samples.

And yet—proceeding now, to introduce myself positively—I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road. 

Figuratively speaking, I travel for the great house of Human Interest Brothers, and have rather a large connection in the fancy goods way. 

Literally speaking, I am always wandering here and there from my rooms in Covent Garden, London—now about the city streets: now, about the country by-roads—seeing many little things, and some great things, which, because they interest me, I think may interest others.

These are my chief credentials as the Uncommercial Traveller.

 

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In The Uncommercial Traveller, he revisited Rochester where he enjoyed the somewhat shaky productions he saw there.

He does not spare the company:

Many wondrous secrets of Nature had I come to the knowledge of in that sanctuary:

Of which not the least terrific were, that the witches in Macbeth bore an awful resemblance to the Thanes and other proper inhabitants of Scotland, and that the good King Duncan could not rest in his grave, but was constantly coming out of it and calling himself somebody else.

 

Above: High Street, Rochester

 

John Dickens’ job entitled him and his family to regard themselves as middle class, but the middle classes had little money behind them if things went wrong or if they couldn’t support their large families in seizing the opportunities they had anticipated.

Prosperity could unravel very quickly.

By the time John was recalled to London in 1822, the debts were considerable and his new post meant a drop in salary.

 

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Above: John Dickens (1785 – 1851)

 

Such was the family situation in 1823 that the young Charles, age 11, had to go out to work, finding employment in a boot-blacking factory, Warren’s Blacking Warehouse, on the north bank of the Thames, near the site of the modern Charing Cross Station.

Charles and his colleagues had to cover pots of boot polish (blacking) and paste on to them paper labels.

He was paid six shillings a week.

Great numbers of children in early 19th century England would have done similar work – and many, much, much worse.

 

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It was a crazy, tumbledown old house, abutting, of course, on the river, and literally overrun with rats.

Its wainscotted rooms and its rotten floors and staircase, and the old grey rats swarming down in the cellars, and the sound of their squeaking and scuffling coming up the stairs at all times, and the dirt and the decay of the place, rise up visibly before me, as if I were there again.

The counting house was on the first floor, looking over the coal barges and the river.

There was a recess in it, in which I was to sit and work.

 

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This episode affected Charles profoundly.

He thought his parents had given up on him.

It is amazing to me how I could have been so easily cast away at such an age.

It is amazing to me, that, even after my descent into the poor little drudge I had been since we came to London, no one had compassion enough for me … to suggest that something might have been spared, as certainly it might have been, to place me at any common school ….

No one made any sign.

My father and mother were quite satisfied.

They could hardly have been more so, if I had been 20 years of age, distinguished at a Grammar School and going to Cambridge.”

 

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Above: Cambridge University coat-of-arms

 

On 20 February 1824 John Dickens was arrested and imprisoned in Marshalsea Debtors’ Prison.

 

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Above: Marshalsea Prison Gate

 

Charles was deeply ashamed of his family’s circumstances and hurt further when his mother forced him to keep his blacking job even after his father’s release.

 

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Above: Elizabeth Dickens (1789 – 1863)

 

This influenced Dickens’s view that a father should rule the family, and a mother find her proper sphere inside the home:

I never afterwards forgot, I never shall forget, I never can forget, that my mother was warm for my being sent back.

His mother’s requesting his return was a factor in his dissatisfied attitude towards women.

 

Righteous indignation stemming from his own situation and the conditions under which working-class people lived became major themes of his works, and it was this unhappy period in his youth to which he alluded in his favourite, and most autobiographical, novel, David Copperfield:

I had no advice, no counsel, no encouragement, no consolation, no assistance, no support, of any kind, from anyone, that I can call to mind, as I hope to go to Heaven!

 

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In the end, a number of circumstances brought an opportunity for change.

John inherited some money, began receiving a pension from the Navy and started working as a journalist, thus enabling the family to dispense with the few shillings Charles was adding to the family income.

 

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Dickens got to school eventually.

He spent two years at Wellington House, which he remembered with little affection.

He did not consider it to be a good school:

Much of the haphazard, desultory teaching, poor discipline punctuated by the headmaster’s sadistic brutality, the seedy ushers and general run-down atmosphere, are embodied in Mr Creakle’s Establishment in David Copperfield.

 

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When he left, at age 15, he was ready for work.

An acquaintance of the family found Charles work as a lawyer’s clerk with the firm of Ellis and Blackmore, which lasted 18 months.

Dickens worked at the law office of Ellis and Blackmore, attorneys, of Holborn Court, Gray’s Inn, as a junior clerk from May 1827 to November 1828.

 

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Above: Gray’s Inn Square, London

 

Charles was a gifted mimic and impersonated those around him: clients, lawyers, and clerks.

He went to theatres obsessively—he claimed that for at least three years he went to the theatre every single day.

His favourite actor was Charles Mathews and Dickens learnt his monopolylogues (farces in which Mathews played every character) by heart.

 

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Above: Charles Matthews (1776 – 1835)

 

Then, having learned Gurney’s system of shorthand in his spare time, he left to become a freelance reporter.

 

Above: Example of Thomas Gurney (1705 – 1770) shorthand

 

A distant relative, Thomas Charlton, was a freelance reporter at Doctors’ Commons and Dickens was able to share his box there to report the legal proceedings for nearly four years.

 

Above: Doctors’ Commons in the early 19th century

 

This education was to inform works such as Nicholas Nickleby, Dombey and Son, and especially Bleak House—whose vivid portrayal of the machinations and bureaucracy of the legal system did much to enlighten the general public and served as a vehicle for dissemination of Dickens’s own views regarding, particularly, the heavy burden on the poor who were forced by circumstances to “go to law“.

 

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Charles had family in journalism.

His father wrote occasional pieces, but Charles also had a maternal uncle, John Henry Barrow, who in 1828 launched The Mirror of Parliament.

It was not long before Charles was part of Barrow’s parliamentary reporting team and was soon striking out writing for other publications, including the radical newspaper The True Sun.

 

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Sometime before 1830, Dickens fell in love with a young woman called Maria Beadnell, the daughter of a banker.

The relationship between them flashed on and off for around four years, despite hostility from her parents, interference from friends and Maria’s own capricious nature.

The letters that survive show how thoroughly Dickens was absorbed in pursuing her.

Maria’s parents disapproved of the courtship and ended the relationship by sending her to school in Paris.

When the end finally came, he wrote to her, claiming:

I have never loved and I can never love any human creature breathing but yourself.

 

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Above: Maria Beadnell (1810 – 1886)

 

She is thought to be the model for the character Dora in David Copperfield.

 

Above: David Copperfield and Dora Spenlow

 

Many years later, Dickens got a letter from Maria out of the blue and a short correspondence between them began in which he proclaimed the intensity of his original feelings for her.

The tone of these letters soon changed after he arranged to see her and she turned out to be “toothless, fat, old and ugly” (her words).

 

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Above: Miriam Margoyles as Maria Beadnell Winter

 

The Maria romance is interesting because of the marked contrast it makes with Dickens’ engagement and marriage.

Catherine Hogarth, the daughter of his boss at the Evening Chronicle, could hardly have been a more different young woman.

At least Dickens looked at her in a completely different way.

His letters to her are affectionate but occasionally overbearing, as if he was asserting himself to ensure that no more nonsense got in the way of his own ambition.

He was particularly careful to outline the primacy of his work and its demands.

His commitments at this time were extremely heavy.

Catherine and Charles married on 2 April 1836 and went for a week’s honeymoon to Chalk in Kent (during which, true to form, Dickens was busy with The Pickwick Papers).

 

Above: Catherine Hogarth Dickens (1816 – 1879)

 

In August 1834 Charles was given a permanent position on The Morning Chronicle, a liberal paper, to report on all parliamentary matters.

This included elections (there were two in 1835) and political meetings – all around the country, before there were railroads.

Deadlines were nevertheless overwhelmingly important and Dickens experienced many freezing, wet stagecoach journeys, bouncing about, writing on his knees, racing back to London to get his account in before the rival reporters on The Times.

 

 

Dickens’ first published piece of creative work appeared in the Monthly Magazine in 1833.

It was called “A Dinner at Poplar Walk“.

The publication had a circulation of 600 and the young author wasn’t paid, but he knew what it all meant.

 

Above: Monthly Magazine (1796 – 1843) issue, 1 February 1810

 

In the preface of the cheap edition of The Pickwick Papers, Dickens tells us that he practically smuggled the piece into the magazine’s offices:

It was dropped stealthily one evening at twilight, with fear and trembling, into a dark letter box, in a dark office, up a dark court in Fleet Street.”

The piece’s emergence into print was an occasion of some emotion:

I walked down to Westminster Hall and turned into it for half an hour, because my eyes were so dimmed with joy and pride, that they could not bear the street and were not fit to be seen there.

 

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More pieces for the Monthly Magazine followed.

These were comic stories, which owed a lot to the theatrical farces so common on the London stage.

It was at the end of one of these pieces, published in May 1834, that he signed his name as “Boz“, the nom de plume by which he first began to establish his reputation and indeed his brand.

Boz being a family nickname he employed as a pseudonym for some years.

Dickens apparently adopted it from the nickname “Moses“, which he had given to his youngest brother Augustus Dickens, after a character in Oliver Goldsmith’s The Vicar of Wakefield.

 

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Above: Augustus Dickens (1827 – 1866)

 

When pronounced by anyone with a head cold, “Moses” became “Boses“—later shortened to Boz.

As “Boz“, Dickens began to collect readers.

He was given further opportunities to please them.

 

Dickens began to write occasional pieces for the Morning Chronicle in addition to his reporting.

These were his “sketches” – informal surveys of parts of London, London themes or observations of London people, held together by a conversational tone rather than a narrative: a Londoner talking to Londoners.

When an evening sister paper to the Morning Chronicle was launched, Dickens obtained a salary to continue his writing explorations in the same vein.

 

Above: London, 1886

 

The increasing exposure brought Dickens to the attention of Harrison Ainsworth, a writer not much read today, but a real star of the literary scene at this time.

Ainsworth admired Boz‘s work and introduced Dickens to his own publisher John Macrone.

 

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Above: William Harrison Ainsworth (1805 – 1882)

 

Soon a collected volume of the newspaper and magazine pieces with drawings of George Cruikshank, the leading illustrator of the day, was published in February 1836.

Sketches by Boz sold so well that a second edition was needed that year and two more in 1837.

 

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As the first edition of Sketches by Boz emerged in 1836, Dickens was approached by the publishers Chapman and Hall.

They came with an idea that had been proposed to them in turn by a well-known illustrator, Robert Seymour.

The plan went like this:

Seymour would produce a series of engravings depicting the amusing mishaps attending a club of Cockney sportsmen – men from the new middle classes, with money to spend on the aristocratic pursuits of previous generations: hunting, shooting and fishing.

These illustrations would be published as a monthly serial.

Would Dickens care to write some text to help string the images together?

Fourteen pounds a month might be possible.

No one really knows what or how much Dickens saw in this offer at the time.

He liked the money.

He was told that serials were a “low, cheap form of publication” that would ruin him.

The fact that he kept all his other irons in the fire suggests that he did not count too much on the new venture establishing his reputation.

But that is exactly what it did.

He claims, in the preface to The Pickwick Papers, that he recognized that the idea wouldn’t do:

I objected, on consideration, that although born and partly bred in the country I was no great sportsman, that the idea was not novel, and had already been much used, that it would infinitely better for the plates to arise naturally out of the text, and that I should like to take my own way….

At first sales were disappointing, but by the end of its run in November 1837,  The Pickwick Papers was selling 40,000 copies per month, it had been adapted for the stage many times over and the words of its characters  seemed to be on everyone’s lips – as was the name of its young author.

 

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After their 1836 wedding, Charles took Catherine to a set of chambers he was renting in Furnival’s Inn, one of the inns of court, the traditional home of English law practice and accommodation for many non-lawyers too.

 

 

As The Pickwick Papers started bringing in a more secure income, Charles set his sights on more substantial living quarters.

These turned out to be at 48 Doughty Street, into which Catherine and Charles moved with their son Charley in March 1837.

 

Above: 48 Doughty Street, London

 

They took in Catherine’s younger sister Mary Hogarth, who had supported Catherine during her first pregnancy.

It was not unusual for a woman’s unwed sister to live with and help a married couple.

Dickens became very attached to Mary.

She inspired characters in many of his books.

Mary is seen as the inspiration for Rose Maylie in Oliver Twist.

She is also seen as the inspiration for Little Nell in The Old Curiosity Shop.

Nell had many traits that Dickens associated to Howarth, including describing Nell as “young, beautiful and good“.

Other characters believed to have been inspired by Mary include:

  • Kate Nickleby, the 17-year-old sister of the hero of the novel Nicholas Nickleby
  • Agnes Wickfield, the heroine in David Copperfield
  • Ruth Pinch from Martin Chuzzlewit
  • Lilian, the child who appears in Trotty Veck’s visions in The Chimes
  • Dot Peerybingle, the sister in The Cricket on the Hearth.

 

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Above: Mary Hogarth (1819 – 1837)

 

Unlike Mary, Dickens’ wife Catherine does not appear to have been the inspiration for any of his characters.

 

Bloomsbury is a district in the West End of London, famed as a fashionable residential area and as the home of numerous prestigious cultural, intellectual and educational institutions.

It is bounded by Fitzrovia to the west, Covent Garden to the south, Regent’s Park and St. Pancras to the north, and Clerkenwell to the east.

Bloomsbury is home of the British Museum, the largest museum in the United Kingdom, and numerous educational institutions, including the University College London, the University of London, the New College of the Humanities, the University of Law, the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art, and many others.

 

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Above: The British Museum, London

 

Bloomsbury is an intellectual and literary hub for London, as home of world-known Bloomsbury Publishing, publishers of the Harry Potter series, and namesake of the Bloomsbury Set, a group of famous British intellectuals, including author Virginia Woolf and economist John Maynard Keynes, among others.

 

Photograph of Virginia Woolf in 1902; photograph by George Charles Beresford

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

 

Bloomsbury began to be developed in the 17th century under the Earls of Southampton, but it was primarily in the 19th century, under the Duke of Bedford, which the district was planned and built as an affluent Regency era residential area by famed developer James Burton.

The district is known for its numerous garden squares, including Bloomsbury Square, Russell Square and Tavistock Square, among others.

Notable residents of Bloomsbury have included J.M. Barrie (Peter Pan), Charles Darwin, Charles Dickens, Ricky Gervais, Vladimir Lenin, Bob Marley, Catherine Tate (Donna Noble, Doctor Who) and William Butler Yeats.

 

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Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

 

Despite a plethora of blue plaques, Bloomsbury boasts just one literary museum, the Charles Dickens Museum, the only one of the writer’s fifteen London addresses to survive intact.

 

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Doughty Street was a well-to-do gated Georgian street when Dickens – flush with the success of his first two published works – moved here in 1837.

The family lived in this light and airy house for two years, during which he completed Oliver Twist and Nicholas Nickleby and worked on Barnaby Rudge.

Catherine gave birth to two children in the bedroom here.

 

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On Saturday, 6 May 1837, Charles took Catherine and Mary to the theatre.

They returned home in good spirits, enjoyed some supper and a drink together and went to bed at one in the morning.

A few moments later Charles heard a cry from Mary’s bedroom and hurried in to find her still in her day clothes and visibly ill.

Catherine came to see what was wrong.

Charles said afterwards that they had no idea there was anything seriously the matter with Mary, but that they sent for medical assistance to be on the safe side.

Whatever Dr. Pickthorn did had no effect, yet still there seemed no cause for alarm.

Mary was, after all, only 17 years old and until then had been in perfect health.

Fourteen hours went by before Mary sank under the attack and died – died in such a calm and gentle sleep, that although Charles had held her in his arms for some time before, when she was certainly living (for she swallowed a little brandy from his hand) Charles continued to support her lifeless form, long after her soul had fled to Heaven.

This was about 3 o’clock on Sunday afternoon.

Thank God she died in my arms and the very last words she whispered were of me.“, Charles told fellow reporter and friend Tom Beard.

Before Charles laid Mary’s body down he was able to remove a ring from her finger and put it on one of his own.

And there it stayed for the rest of his life.

 

Above: Mary’s bedroom, Charles Dickens Museum

 

Mary’s death is fictionalized as the death of Little Nell in The Old Curiosity Shop.

 

 

The building at 48 Doughty Street was threatened with demolition in 1923, but was saved by the Dickens Fellowship, founded in 1902, who raised the mortgage and bought the property.

The house was renovated and the Dickens House Museum was opened in 1925, under the direction of an independent trust, now a registered charity.

 

Above: Study, Charles Dickens Museum

 

48 Doughty Street is presented as far as possible in its inhabited state, the idea being to give the impression that the Dickens family is still resident.

Much of the house’s furniture belonged, at one time or another, to Dickens, and the house also owns the earliest known portrait of the writer (a miniature painted by his aunt Mary Allen in 1830).

 

Above: Charles Dickens

 

Perhaps the best-known exhibit is the portrait of Dickens known as Dickens’s Dream by R. W. Buss, an original illustrator of The Pickwick Papers.

This unfinished portrait shows Dickens in his study at Gads Hill Place surrounded by many of the characters he had created.

The painting was begun in 1870 after Dickens’s death.

 

Above: Dickens’ Dream, Robert William Buss

 

(Gads Hill Place in Higham, Kent, sometimes spelt Gadshill Place and Gad’s Hill Place, was the country home of Charles Dickens.

Today the building is the independent Gad’s Hill School.

The house was built in 1780 for a former Mayor of Rochester, Thomas Stephens, opposite the present Sir John Falstaff Public House.

Gad’s Hill is where Falstaff commits the robbery that begins Shakespeare’s Henriad trilogy (Henry IV: Part 1, Henry IV: Part 2 and Henry V). )

 

Above: Gad’s Hill Place, Rochester

 

Other notable artefacts in the Museum include numerous first editions and original manuscripts as well as original letters by Dickens, and many personal items owned by Dickens and his family.

 

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The only known item of clothing worn by Dickens still in existence is also displayed at the Museum.

This is his Court suit and sword, worn when Dickens was presented to the Prince of Wales in 1870.

 

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The Charles Dickens Museum also owns the adjacent house, #49, where they stage special exhibitions, house the bookshop and have a lovely café with free Wifi.

 

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There runs within both London and Rochester (where Charles spent the last years of his life) a Dickens Trail.

On London’s Dickens Trail, there is:

  • the Old Curiosity Shop (currently a shoe shop) on Lincoln’s Inn Fields, the inspiration of Dickens’ novel of the same name
  • the atmospheric Inns of Court (once the headquarters of the Knights Templar) which feature in several Dickens novels
  • Nancy’s Steps, where Nancy tells Rose Maylie Oliver’s story in Oliver Twist
  • the evocative dockland area east of Shad Thames where Bill Sykes (also of Oliver Twist) had his hide-out.

 

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(This dockland area, known as China Wharf – today very photogenic with its stack of semicircular windows picked out in red – was once dubbed “the very capital of cholera“.

In 1849, the Morning Chronicle described it thus:

Jostling with unemployed labourers of the lowest class, ballast heavers, coal-whippers, brazen women, ragged children, and the very raff and refuse of the river, the visitor makes his way with difficulty along, assailed by offensive sights and sounds from the narrow alleys which branch off.

This was the location of Dickens’ fictional Jacob’s Island, a place with “every imaginable sign of desolation and neglect“, where Bill Sykes met his end in Oliver Twist.)

 

Above: China Wharf, London

 

Charles John Huffam Dickens (7 February 1812 – 9 June 1870) was an English writer and social critic.

He created some of the world’s best-known fictional characters and is regarded by many as the greatest novelist of the Victorian era.

His works enjoyed unprecedented popularity during his lifetime, and, by the 20th century, critics and scholars had recognised him as a literary genius.

His novels and short stories are still widely read today.

Despite his lack of formal education, he edited a weekly journal for 20 years, wrote 15 novels, five novellas, hundreds of short stories and non-fiction articles, lectured and performed readings extensively, was an indefatigable letter writer and campaigned vigorously for children’s rights, education and other social reforms.

 

Above: Charles Dickens, 1842

 

Dickens’s literary success began with the 1836 serial publication of The Pickwick Papers.

Within a few years he had become an international literary celebrity, famous for his humour, satire and keen observation of character and society.

His novels, most published in monthly or weekly instalments, pioneered the serial publication of narrative fiction, which became the dominant Victorian mode for novel publication.

Cliffhanger endings in his serial publications kept readers in suspense.

The instalment format allowed Dickens to evaluate his audience’s reaction, and he often modified his plot and character development based on such feedback.

For example, when his wife’s chiropodist expressed distress at the way Miss Mowcher in David Copperfield seemed to reflect her disabilities, Dickens improved the character with positive features.

His plots were carefully constructed and he often wove elements from topical events into his narratives.

 

Above: Charles Dickens, 1850

 

Masses of the illiterate poor chipped in ha’pennies to have each new monthly episode read to them, opening up and inspiring a new class of readers.

His 1843 novella A Christmas Carol remains especially popular and continues to inspire adaptations in every artistic genre.

 

Brown book cover bearing the words "A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens" in gold.

 

Oliver Twist and Great Expectations are also frequently adapted and, like many of his novels, evoke images of early Victorian London.

 

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His 1859 novel A Tale of Two Cities (set in London and Paris) is his best-known work of historical fiction.

 

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The most famous celebrity of his era, public demand saw him undertake a series of public reading tours in the later part of his career.

 

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Dickens has been praised by many of his fellow writers—from Leo Tolstoy to George Orwell, G. K. Chesterton and Tom Wolfe—for his realism, comedy, prose style, unique characterisations and social criticism.

However, Oscar Wilde, Henry James and Virginia Woolf complained of a lack of psychological depth, loose writing and a vein of sentimentalism.

 

Above: Dickens’ chair, Charles Dickens Museum

 

The term Dickensian is used to describe something that is reminiscent of Dickens and his writings, such as poor social conditions or comically repulsive characters.

 

There is much in Charles Dickens’ life before and up to his residency at 48 Doughty Street that I can relate with.

Charles came from a large family, as did I, but like the titular hero of Oliver Twist it was not until later in my life did I come to realize that I was neither an orphan (nor an only child) as far as my biological heritage went.

 

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My first work during my school years was labour intensive like Charles’ was.

While his was labouring in a blacking factory, mine was summer employment as a farmhand.

(A position I occasionally returned to when financing my travels.)

 

 

Like Charles, I spent much of the early years of my life outdoors when I wasn’t reading voraciously.

The boy Charles read Tobias Smollett and Henry Fielding and The Arabian Nights.

I read Charles Dickens, Robert Louis Stephenson and the adventures of the Hardy Boys.

 

 

Charles was separated from his family by mounting debts and living beyond one’s means.

It is said that these were the cause of my biological parents’ break-up and it was the prevention of these to my foster parents that led to my being taken in for the provincial support the government provided for my care.

 

Canadian Provinces and Territories

 

Unlike Charles, I was never small for my age and I would by the age of 14 surpass Charles’ adult height of 5’9″ to reach my current height of 6’4″, but, like Charles, I had felt that I was a “not-over-particularly-taken-care-of boy“.

 

After my secondary and post-secondary studies, I, like Charles, worked as a clerk, but what for him would be a brief two years would be for me always a position to return to between my travels.

I have worked as a clerk for a customs broker, federal government departments and for a registered charity.

 

 

More akin to George Orwell, I would later work as a teacher and a restaurant worker, but in a Dickensian vein, I have written (sometimes for money, sometimes for exposure) for local newspapers and school publications.

 

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I have never achieved great fame, but then neither have I greatly sought it to the extent that Dickens did.

 

What I have always admired about Dickens and his works are:

  • his humour, satire and keen observation of character and society.
  • his carefully constructed plots wherein he often wove elements from topical events into his narratives.
  • his realism, comedy, prose style, unique characterisations and social criticism.
  • his walking which led to his descriptions of the neglected and forgotten corners of London.

 

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Cities, like cats, will reveal themselves at night.“, wrote the poet Rupert Brooke.

London’s own Geoffrey Chaucer, William Shakespeare, William Blake and Thomas De Quincey were all night time perambulators, but of those who walk the streets at night the supreme nightwalker was Charles Dickens.

 

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In Great Expectations (1861), Pip at one point visits Miss Haversham in her home in Kent in order to inform her and her ward Estella, with whom he is still madly in love, that he has finally discovered the identity of his benefactor, the convict Magwitch.

Pip confirms that, because he knows Miss Haversham was not responsible for his transformation into a gentleman, he realizes that she and Estella have all along treated him not as their protegé but “as a kind of servant, to gratify a want or whim“.

It is on this occasion, too, that Estella admits she is to be married, as Pip feared, to the odious and oafish aristocrat Bentley Drummle.

Thus discarded, and in a deeply disconsolate state of mind, Pip escapes from Satis House and, as the afternoon light thickens, hides himself for a time “among some lanes and bypaths“.

Then, in a moment of decision, he strikes off “to walk all the way to London“.

I could do nothing half so good for myself as tire myself out.”, he decides.

It is “past midnight” when he eventually crosses London Bridge.

 

 

Four years later, Dickens made roughly the same journey on foot, in reverse.

 

One night in October 1857, when he was in his mid-forties, Dickens retired to bed in the family home in Bloomsbury, but found himself completely unable to get to sleep.

He had suffered from intermittent insomnia throughout his adult life, but on this occasion he felt particularly agitated.

He did not feel at home at home.

So at 0200 Dickens climbed out of bed, dressed in warm clothes and set off through the gaslit streets of the city.

 

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Dickens had written more than two decades earlier:

The streets of London, to be beheld in the very height of their glory, should be seen on a dark, dull, murky winter’s night.

When the heavy, lazy mist, which hangs over every object, makes the gas lamps look brighter.

 

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In the damp silence of the autumn night, beneath the scuffing sound of his boots on the stone pavements, Dickens would have heard the gas whispering its secrets in the softly rasping pipes.

Heading south in the direction of the Thames, Dickens walked through London directly to Gad’s Hill Place, his country residence in Kent.

Like Pip’s journey through the night, it was a distance of some 30 miles.

 

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Catherine and Charles had been….prolific – ten children – “the largest family ever known with the smallest disposition to do anything for themselves” as Dickens later described them – and 15 novels, each published in monthly (or weekly) installments, which were awaited with baited breath by the public.

Then in 1857, at the peak of his career, Dickens fell in love with the actress, Ellen Ternan.

Charles was 45, Ellen just 18.

 

Above: Ellen Ternan (1839 – 1914)

 

On the evening of his nightwalk, Catherine and Charles quarrelled.

They were becoming inrcreasingly estranged, partly because of his relationship with Ellen.

For this reason, Charles visited Tavistock House, their home at this time, only rarely.

 

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Above: Tavistock House, London

 

Charles spent most of the autumn of 1857 at Gad’s Hill Place.

When he needed to be in central London, he tended to stay in a bachelor flat at the offices of his periodical, Household Words.

It was shortly after Charles insisted on partitioning the bedroom he shared with Catherine so that they could sleep separately.

 

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The nighttime journey on foot to Gad’s Hill Place, driven by an acute sense of anguish and guilt, took Dickens little more than seven hours.

(According to present day Google Maps, the same journey normally takes 9.5 hours.)

 

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Above: Google Maps logo

 

Dickens was a fast walker, who took pride in the fact that he could sustain a pace of at least four miles an hour across long distances.

(In my walking days my average pace was 3 mph and on a descent 5 mph.)

 

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Above: Canada Slim, The Dutton Advance, 6 March 1991

 

His friends frequently complained of the speed and impatience with which he walked.

 

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Above: Charles Dickens

 

Edward Johnson, one of his biographers, wrote:

Sometimes his perspiring companions gave way to blisters and breathlessness.

 

Charles himself was boastful of his feats as a pedestrian.

He professed in 1860:

So much of my travelling is done on foot that if I cherished betting propensities, I should probably be found registered in sporting newspapers as the Elastic Novice, challenging all 11-stone mankind to competition in walking.

 

No doubt he secretly harboured dreams of bettering Captain Barclay, a celebrated athlete who, in 1809, when pedestrianism first became a sporting activity, walked a thousand miles in a thousand hours for a thousand guineas.

 

Above: Captain Robert Barclay-Allardyce (1779 – 1854), the celebrated pedestrian

 

In the late 1850s, Dickens remained a fit man precisely because he insisted on walking, both in London and in the countryside, whenever he could find the opportunity.

Even so, he was increasingly afflicted with ill health at this time.

His symptoms included neuralgic and rheumatic pains.

His feet also troubled him.

 

According to biographer Claire Tomalin:

First his left foot, and then his right, took to swelling intermittedly, becoming so painful that during each attack he became unable to take himself on the great walks that were essential part and pleasure of his life.

 

Dickens had gout, though he was reluctant to accept the idea, claiming instead that he contracted the pain because he had incautiously walked in snowy conditions.

This did not deter him from walking in all conditions, clement or inclement.

 

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G.K. Chesterton, identifiying a “streak of sickness” in Dickens, which he detected in the novelist’s “fervid” intelligence, nonetheless confirmed that “he suffered from no formidable malady and could always through life endure a great deal of exertion, even if it was only the exertion of walking violently all night.

 

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Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

 

For John Hollingshead, who had been apprenticed to Dickens on Household Words, and who therefore saw a good deal of him in the 1850s, this proclivity for “violent walking” was itself a malady.

Hollingshead recalled in retrospect that “when Dickens lived in Tavistock House he developed a mania for walking long distances, which almost assumed the form of a disease.”

When he was restless, his brain excited by struggling with incidents or characters in the novel he was writing, he would frequently get up and walk through the night over Waterloo Bridge, along the London, New Kent and Old Kent Roads, past all the towns on the old Dover High Road, until he came to his roadside dwelling (Gad’s Hill Place).

His dogs barked when they heard his key in the wicket-gate. 

His behaviour must have seemed madness to the ghost of Sir John Falstaff.

(Gad’s Hill Place stood opposite the Falstaff Inn, formerly a notorious haunt of robbers and highwaymen.)

 

Above: John Hollingshead (1827 – 1904)

 

It is likely, then, that Dickens conducted his 30-mile nightwalk to Kent on more than one occasion.

But Dickens’ celebrated feat on that night in October 1857 was less about overcoming physical afflictions than capitulating to his psychological ones.

This was a flight both from his everyday life and from his self.

 

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From an early age Charles had been running away from something, or walking “fast and far” from something.

Going astray“, he called it.

In an article entitled “Going Astray“, printed in Household Words in 1853, Dickens described how he had “got lost one day in the City of London” as an 8-year-old child and roamed and strayed and strolled through London’s precincts all day and into the night, until he found a watchman.

I have gone astray since, many times, and farther afield.“, Dickens concludes with a certain sad pride.

 

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Chesterton argued that Dicken’s originality and genius resided in the fact that he possessed, “in the most sacred and serious sense of the term, the key of the street.

Few of us understand the street.

Even we step into it, as into a house or a room of strangers.

Few of us see through the shining riddle of the street, the strange folk that belong to the street only – the street-walker or the street Arab, the nomads, who generation after generation, have kept their ancient secrets in the full blaze of the sun.

Of the street at night many of us know even less.

The street at night is a great house locked up.

But Dickens had, if ever man had, the key of the street.

His stars were the lamps of the street.

His hero was the man in the street.

He could open the inmost door of his house – the door that leads into that secret passage which is lined with houses and roofed with stars.”

 

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Night Walks, first published in All the Year Round in 1860 and then reprinted in The Uncommercial Traveller in 1861, was Dickens’ finest, most haunting piece of non-fictional prose.

At once impressionistic and replete with intensely related detail, it relates his experiences on the streets of the capital between half past midnight (0030) and the moment when “the conscious gas begins to grow pale with the knowledge that daylight is coming.”

A sense of solitude echoes through his sentences, empty and hollow as the midnight streets through which he walks.

 

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When a church clock strikes, on homeless ears in the dead of the night, it may be at first be mistaken for company, but as the spreading circles of vibration echo out into eternal space, the mistake is rectified and the sense of loneliness is profounder.

Dickens confesses to have discovered a lonely sense of community in the cold depths of the London night, among men defined by “a tendency to lurk and lounge, to be at street corners without intelligible reason“.

My principal object being to get through the night, the pursuit of it brought me into sympathetic relations with people who have no other object every night of the year.

 

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These are the everyday casualities of life in the capitalist metropolis – the victims of unemployment, addiction and other symptoms of social and spiritual alienation.

The homeless must conquer time and defend themselves against its blank emptiness, from minute to minute, moment by moment, the shame, desertion, wretchedness and exposure of the great capital, the wet, the cold, the slow hours and the swift clouds of the dismal night.

For the police, the proof of a home, a legal nocturnal place to stay, is the precondition for the recognition of existence.

So the situation of homelessness, roaming the night without aim, without rest, represents exclusion from society.

It is a form of non-existence, non-being, the outer limits of society’s psychological and sociological borderland, the hinterland of humanity, the dark hollow interior of human nature.

 

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London is a city where 55% of people are not ethnically white British, nearly 40% were born abroad, and 5% are living illegally in the shadows.

Every week 2,000 migrants unload at Victoria Coach Station, tens of thousands of migrants arriving here every year.

But who can trust statistics?

 

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You will never understand what it means to be a beggar until you have slept on the streets.

They sleep in front of the glare of shop windows, for the light lends a sense of safety.

Crackheads and Roma, street life, disorientation, a jumble of faces, an eternal rumble of traffic, where working girls sell their bodies and throw in their souls for free, the rhythm of the streets, a never sated drumbeat.

 

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Ute (my wife) and I on London evenings are one of many after-dinner couples strolling along.

I hear others with their contempt and disgust regard the beggars who congregate upon the concrete like lost church mice, like mangy parasites, cosmopolitan cockroaches, best belittled than assisted.

 

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They are the invisible, because we choose to ignore them.

They are painful reminders of our privileged life that they cannot imagine having or, if once had, reacquiring.

They are the old and the prematurely aged, shuffling and stumbling, snuffling and sniffing, pleading for pennies from those whose hearts are void of compassion.

Washed-up soiled souls marooned, listless and almost lifeless, easy prey to those who would use them for cruel sport, they lie beneath walls smeared in blood and feces upon flattened cardboard boxes that soften the sidewalk.

Human rubbish amidst human refuse, they are gaunt faces with sunken eyes, needing to beg to survive, to live, to exist, but to beg is to break the law.

What is earned is confiscated.

Law and order trumps love and outreach.

They see the beggar as an offense not as a fellow human being.

Those without homes are an invisible city deliberately unseen by the lucky with lodgings.

 

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Charles Dickens’ home is remembered as I hold my wife’s hand tightly to lend ourselves courage to encounter what we do not comprehend.

Charles feared poverty, was obsessed with money, felt that unease that only those who have raised themselves out from poverty can truly understand.

But his talent, hard work, perseverance and good fortune never required a return to a hand-to-mouth, payment-to-payment survival.

He encountered the homeless and destitute during his night walks but was never reduced to joining their ranks.

 

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Above: Charles Dickens

 

My wife and I have London lodgings during our sojourn here and a warm comfortable flat awaiting our return to Switzerland.

 

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I too have known a poverty of sorts, though my begging was limited to government assistance and hitching rides and seeking emergency overnight shelter in the places where rides left me.

In my long-distance walking days I slept wherever I could and rarely needed the tent I carried upon my backpack.

 

Like those migrants of London for whom hope remains despite their desperate circumstances, I worked where and when I could, sometimes in the safety of the law, sometimes not.

Though I have never been much of an evening perambulator I have nonetheless encountered the homeless in more than a few cities I have visited.

I see it regularly amongst the Roma in Konstanz and I give as prudently as I can when I encounter the beggar Bruno in St. Gallen.

I remember the helpless and hapless of London and Paris, Seoul and Istanbul, Naples and New York.

 

Above: The Old Beggar of Bordeaux, Louis Dewis, 1916

 

I think of Oliver Twist.

Advancing to the master, basin and spoon in hand, said, somewhat alarmed at his own temerity:

“Please, sir, I want some more.”

 

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Above: Mark Lester as Oliver Twist, Oliver!, 1968

 

Everyone’s hungry for something.

 

Sources: The Rough Guide to London / Matthew Beaumont, Night Walking: A Nocturnal History of London / Jeremy Clarke, The Charles Dickens Miscellany / Charles Dickens, Night Walks / Ben Judah, This Is London / Claire Tomalin, Charles Dickens: A Life

 

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Canada Slim and the Italian Twilight

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 23 July 2019

There are advantages and disadvantages to everything.

 

In less than a fortnight I shall board a train to Romanshorn, followed by a ferry across the Lake of Constance (Bodensee) to Friedrichshafen then a train to Lindau, another to Kaufbeuren, another to Füssen and finally a bus to Schwangau to join my wife for a long weekend break.

 

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Above: Schwangau

 

This entails taking the second earliest departing train at 05:55 from our local station and a journey of five and a half hours to be reunited with the wife on holiday for her birthday at a spa resort in the Allgäu region of Bavaria.

I do not enjoy spas, wellness centres, health farms, but I do enjoy my wife’s companionship.

 

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The things we do for love.

 

It is this romantic compulsion, this sweet surrender of one’s will for the beautiful harmony found with another person that makes me recall some compromises I have made for my better half on some journeys we have made together.

Unlike my wife whose ambition is fixed once she has determined to do something, I rarely kick when her female perogative decides that what I planned will now not happen.

I have wanted to climb the Tour Eiffel in Paris, drive to Roscommon in Ireland, and stop more often en route from Freiburg im Breisgau to Bretagne, but her jaw was set, her foot was put down, her nerve defiant.

Ultimately life somehow went on without the tower ascent, the Irish detour or the frequent French stops, but my childish petulence of wishes denied is still remembered.

Such pettiness a husband can harbour!

 

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There was another such moment last year on our northern Italian vacation….

 

Highway 45 between Gardone Riviera and Limone sul Garda, 6 August 2018

Barely 3 km east of Gardone, the road passes through the twin comune of Toscolano-Maderno, which straddles the delta of the Toscolano River.

Toscolano is predominantly an industrial centre while Maderno is exclusively a tourist centre, stretching in a picturesque gulf with a wonderful promenade among villas and gardens and a decent beach.

 

Above: Toscolano – Maderno

 

According to a legend, the ancient, mysterious town of Benaco, sunk into Lake Garda owing to an earthquake in 243, was built near Toscolano.

A memorial tablet on the bell tower of Chiesa San Andrea (St. Andrew’s Church) in Maderno bears a dedication of the Benacensi to Marcus Aurelius.

 

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The Orto Botanico “G.E. Ghirardi” is a botanical garden operated by the University of Milan, and located on via Religione, Toscolano-Maderno.

The garden was established in 1964 as the Stazione Agricola Sperimentale Mimosa under the direction of Professor Giordano Emilio Ghirardi.

In 1991 it became part of the University of Milan, and today primarily cultivates plants of interest for medicine and pharmaceutics, but also supports research in transgenic plants, rice, etc.

Collections include Camptotheca acuminata, Eschscholzia, Nicotiana, Nigella, Scutellaria, and Solanaceae.

 

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A car ferry crosses from here to Torri del Benaco on the eastern shore of Lake Garda.

 

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The valley behind the comune has a tradition of paper-making dating from the 4th century.

Following the riverside road up into this beautiful, wooded valley brings the traveller past many disused paper mills to the Fondazione Valle delle Cartierie, with a well-presented museum offering an insight into the processes and importance of the industry.

 

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Toscolano-Maderno is a Shangri-la for shady walks or sumptious picnics, but this day we have no time for a stroll nor food in the car for a sit-down meal.

We are on the way to Riva del Garda, our next night’s stop, the weather is sweltering and all we dream about is the AC promised at the Hotel ahead.

We left this morning after two nights in Sirmione, spent much of the day exploring Gardone Riviera and still had some distance to travel.

I was complacent, quiet and uncomplaining.

 

 

We arrived at Gargnano, said to be the prettiest village on Lake Garda.

Traffic ran above and inland from the town, leaving old Gargnano mostly noise-free.

The narrow difficult road north of town means tour buses don’t bother trying to reach Gargnano.

It is more workman’s base than tourist resort.

 

Skyline of Gargnano

Above: Gargnano

 

Nonetheless Gargnano has a few claims to fame:

 

The naval operations on Lake Garda in 1866 during the Third Italian War of Independence (20 June – 12 August 1866) consisted of a series of clashes between flotillas of the Kingdom of Italy and the Austrian Empire between 25 June and 25 July that year, as they attempted to secure dominance of the lake.

The Austrian fleet, based on the eastern bank of the lake, was larger, more modern and better-armed than their Italian counterpart, and successfully maintained control of the waters, hindering the movement of Italian troops.

 

Above: The Austrian Steamer Hess

 

At the outset of the war, the border between Austria and Italy ran down the middle of the lake.

The Brescia region to the west lay within Italy while Verona and the lands east of the lake were Austrian.

 

 

Austria controlled Riva del Garda at the northern tip of the lake, as well as the important fortress of Peschiera del Garda on the west bank of the River Mincio at its southern end.

Peschiera was part of the so-called ‘Quadrilateral‘ of strong core Austrian defences, leaving the exposed eastern shore of Lake Garda an area of potential weakness, vulnerable to Italian infiltration.

This might have involved a strike from the north end of the Lake up the valley of the Chiese River to threaten Trento and cut off the supply lines of the Austrian forces in the Veneto.

It might also have involved a landing of forces behind Peschiera to threaten Verona.

 

Above: Peschiera

 

On the Italian side, the buildup of Austrian naval strength caused concerns about a possible Austrian attack across the lake towards Brescia.

At the start of hostilities of 25 June, the Austrians immediately sailed out to threaten Salò and prevent any movement of Italian troops.

On 30 June, the Austrian ships bombarded the railway station at Desenzano, a supply and communications point for the Italian Volunteer Corps of Giuseppe Garibaldi, but caused only minor damage.

 

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Above: Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807 – 1882)

 

More substantial action took place on 2 July, at 5 am, when four Austrian gunboats, including the Hess and Franz Joseph, bombarded the centre of Gargnano, where there was a strong concentration of Garibaldi’s forces.

The bombardment caused extensive damage to homes, one dead and eight wounded among the defending volunteers of the 2nd Regiment.

 

 

The Austrian flotilla was eventually compelled to withdraw under fire from an Italian battery commanded by Captain Achille Afan de Rivera.

 

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Above: Captain Rivera (1842 – 1904)

 

Other skirmishes took place on the lake every few days.

On 6 July, Italian volunteers forces, equipped with nine long-range guns borrowed from a coastal battery at Maderno, ambushed the Austrian gunboat Wildfang at Gargagno.

The gunboat was hit twice, for no losses for Garibaldi’s army.

 

At the same time, the Italian flotilla sailed out from Salo to chase the armoured gunboat Wespe, on patrol off Maderno.

The Austrian vessel managed to disangage after receiving support from Speiteufel and Scharfschütze.

Italian sources claim that the Wespe was forced to seek shelter at Malcesine.

 

Skyline of Malcesine

Above: Malcesine

 

The next significant combat occurred on 19 July when the Italian paddle steamer Benaco head out from Salo for Gargnano towing the sailboat Poeta, both ships carrying reinforcement troops and loaded with supplies for the volunteers in the mountains of Valvestino and Tremosine.

The Benaco was suddenly attacked by two Austrian gunboats, the Wildfang and Schwarzschűtze, which forced it in to shore near Gargnano, where most of the crew, troops and supplies were landed during the night.

 

The next morning Austrian whalerboats were able to capture the abandoned Benaco, still with a small gun and some rifle ammunition in her holds, and tow it away as a prize to Peschiera.

One of the whalerboats capsized under Italian fire, but was eventually recovered by the Austrian flotilla.

Three Austrian sailors were wounded, while heavy shelling on Gargnano killed two Italian volunteers.

The Poeta managed to sail away, only to sink shortly after off San Carlo.

 

A second convoy from Salo, consisting in another sailboat escorted by the Italian flotilla, was forced back two days later by the Austrian gunboats Speiteufel, Uskoke and Wespe.

The Benaco was handed back to the Italian government at the end of the hostilities.

 

Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of the Kingdom of Italy (1861 – 1946)

 

The final action of the war took place at the north end of the Lake.

After skirmishes on the Lake on 24 July, Manfroni learned that the Austrian army had abandoned Riva del Garda, which was one of his key supply points.

To prevent the town falling to Garibaldi, he steamed north and occupied the fortifications in the town with his marines, and on 25 July his forces were able to hold off Garibaldi’s volunteers until nightfall.

 

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Above: Moritz Manfroni von Montfort (1832 – 1889)

 

At 10 p.m. the Hess arrived with a telegram confirming that a ceasefire had been declared between Austria and Italy.

 

Flag of Austria

Above: Flag of the Austrian (Habsburg) Empire (1804 – 1867)

 

Giovanni Beatrice known as Zanzanù (1576 – 1617) was an Italian bandit of the Republic of Venice .

He was one of the most heinous bandits of the Serenissima responsible, with his band, between 1602 and 1617, of about 200 murders, according to the testimony of the bandit and assassin Alessandro Remer of Malcesine , who was hired in 1609 by a group of merchants from Desenzano del Garda to exterminate the Zannoni band.

From the 22 sentences of bans pronounced by the Venetian magistrates against Beatrice, from 1605 to 1616, the murders clearly attributed to him did not reach 10 and those that were committed in the years 1605 – 1609 were against those who had killed his father.

This is the image that emerges from the judicial sources that testify both the numerous sentences imposed against him, and the activity of the ruthless bounty hunters aiming to obtain prizes and benefits offered by the Republic of Venice in exchange for his killing.

 

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Above: Giovanni Beatrice (aka Zanzanù)

 

In fact, a more accurate examination of the same sources allows us to outline the figure of a man who became an outlaw to defend his honor and that of his family.

A bandit who soon became legendary for the abuses and injustices that were committed against him.

The vicissitudes of the life of this man and the extreme complexity of the social relations within which they took place are emblematic of the transformations that affected Europe, determining the figure of the traditional bandit and of the conflicting dynamics that animated it, in that the outlaw was considered a dangerous enemy of social tranquility.

 

Giovanni Beatrice (or Beatrici), nicknamed by the locals “Zanzanù” or “Zuan Zanone” (Giovanni Zanone), was born in Gargnano in 1576, to Giovanni Maria Beatrice of the “Zanon” family and his wife, Anastasia.

His wife Caterina had numerous children: Anastasia born in 1598, Margherita in 1599, Pietro Antonio in 1601, Anastasia in 1602, Elisabetta Antonia in 1604, Giovan Maria in 1608.

 

He acted with a band of accomplices, known as the “degli Zannoni“, and a dense network of connivances, even high positions, in the Riviera di Salò, territory of the Republic of Venice , and in the Upper Garda of the episcopal principality of Trento, killing, stealing and extorting anyone.

In a short time with his criminal enterprises Zanzanù became the terror of the population and the concern of the Veneto supervisors.

 

Repubblica di Venezia – Bandiera

Above: Flag of the Republic of Venice (697 – 1797)

 

The first news of Beatrice dates back to 24 March 1602, when in Bogliaco, during a military parade of the “cernide“, the Venetian popular militia, of which he was a part, wounded by stabbing – with the complicity of his uncle Giovanni Francesco Beatrice called “Lima” – Francesco Sette of Maderno, the son of Riccobono, a bitter rival of his family and killed a friend of the Seven who had intervened in defense.

The two fugitive assassins were subsequently banished from all the territories of the Serenissima, but despite this they enjoyed high protection as guests of Giovanni Gaudenzio Madruzzo, captain of the Rocca of Riva del Garda and related to the prince bishop of Trento, Carlo Gaudenzio Madruzzo.

 

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Above: Bogliaco

 

This first and convulsive period was marked by the killing of his father Giovan Maria, which took place in 1605 by some of his enemies.

A period that he would remember for the rest of his life:

The father of I, Giovanni Zannoni of the Riviera of Salò, the ordinary son of those who descend to the lake, and from whom he derived the food of all his poor family, while he lived quietly, founded a solemn peace with a signed oath, over the sacrament of the altar, was wickedly slain by someone of the Riviera.

For this so inhumane and barbarous act, being sure of the cruelty of men, induced by desperation, I resolved to avenge such a serious offense and to secure my own life, having taken the path of arms, I avenged with the deaths of the enemy the loss of the father and the privation of the way of supporting my family, for which operations I was banished and persecution continued, I  responded with new vendettas.

 

The whole affair, which had as its decisive and ruthless protagonist the young Zanzanù, is in fact understandable only in the light of a harsh conflict in the years 1602 – 1605 between the Beatrice di Gargnano and the Sette families of Monte Maderno.

A conflict that most likely originated from a rivalry, for reasons of honor, between the sons of Giovan Maria Beatrice and those of Riccobon Sette, a wealthy landowner of Vigole in Monte Maderno.

However the wounding of Francesco Sette by Giovanni Beatrice did not constitute itself as the triggering element of the struggle without quarter which in the following years would see the two families facing each other.

 

In 1603 both Riccobon and Francesco Sette suffered the repercussions carried out by the administrator of Salò and the Venetian magistrates against their respective son and brother Giacomo.

For the protection and aid granted to Giacomo, Riccobon Sette ended up in prison in Salò, while his brother Francesco was in turn forced to leave the State.

 

Above: Salò

 

The situation precipitated at the beginning of the spring of 1603, when Giacomo Sette was killed in Armo on 14 April by his accomplice, Eliseo Baruffaldo di Val Vestino, who took his head to Salò for the ritual recognition.

These were perhaps the events that led Riccobon Sette to restore peace with the Beatrice of Gargnano.

The peace act was stipulated in August 1603 in the monastery of San Francesco di Gargnano, by Fra Tiziano Degli Antoni, a common friend of both parties.

The Beatrice were represented by Giovan Maria himself, while the archpriest of Gargnano, Bernardino Bardelli, brother-in-law of Riccobon Sette, was engaged for the opposing faction.

Riccobon Sette, in fact, was still in prison, while his son Francesco was banished.

However, the killing of the latter by some bounty hunters precipitated the situation.

 

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Above: Monastery of San Francesco di Gargnano

 

On 16 June 1604 Riccobon Sette, still in prison in Salò , addressed the representatives of the Magnifica Patria, lamenting the loss of his two children and the difficult situation in which he found himself.

Upon leaving prison the opposition between the two families was rekindled.

The murder of Giovan Maria Beatrice by assassins sent by the archpriest of Gargnano pushed the conflict to extremes.

 

In the years 1605 – 1607 Beatrice in fact carried out several coups against his adversaries and enemies, always managing to escape the numerous ambushes by the bounty hunters on his trail.

It was not so for two of his companions, Eliseo Baruffaldo and Giovan Pietro Sette. known as Pellizzaro, who in November 1606 were killed by some bounty hunters and some enemies of the Beatrice whom the Provveditore General in the Mainland, in all secrecy, had sent on their trail.

The two were killed on 11 November 1606 in a night ambush stretched over the mountains of Gargnano, and their severed heads displayed in the square of Salò.

 

The spiral of violence that followed the feud between the two families helped to define the image of Zanzanù, especially starting from the years 1608 -09, when he was now unable to defend himself by resorting to the ordinary ways of justice.

He was thus credited with many crimes of which he was certainly not responsible (such as robberies and thefts).

 

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He remembered, in 1616 in a plea directed to the Council of Ten:

“I confess to being guilty of many notices, but all for private crimes and none for the slightest of public and state affairs, nor with conditions excluded from the present I am not even entitled to compensate anyone, but let me be quite right in saying that, since many excesses have been committed by others under my name, of those who are out of hope of being able to free me, I have never cared to get rid of them.”

 

On 13 February 1609 in Tremosine, Zanzanù attacked, robbed and injured the doctor Oliviero, killed Gabriele Leonesio and stole an arquebus in a house.

Escaping to Limone sul Garda, on the night of February 13, he fell in an ambush at the port of Riva del Garda, where the band led by his uncle Giovanni Francesco “Lima” was targeted by the bandit Alessandro Remer of Malcesine who intended to claim the bounty.

Giovanni Beatrice was saved by jumping into the lake and swimming, while his brother Michele Zanon, Bernardo and Giovanni Battista Pace, known as “Parolotto“, of Salò were killed.

Giovanni Francesco “Lima“, although wounded in the thigh, managed to take refuge in Limone sul Garda, where he was, the next day, shot and then barbarously beheaded.

 

Limone sul Garda

Above: Limone sul Garda

 

The most striking action of Giovanni Beatrice took place on 29 May 1610, when he was involved, according to the accusations of the Venetian magistracy, in the murder in the Cathedral of Salò of the Brescia magistrate Bernardino Ganassoni, podestà of the place, who was attending the solemn mass in honor of Saint Herculaneum.

The murder was carried out by Antonio Bonfadino who shot point-blank, and despite the presence of the escort soldiers he managed to escape.

 

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Above: Salò Cathedral

 

In the following days Beatrice tried to approach the Brescian representatives who came to Salò during the process.

To them the bandit reported that, in exchange for a pardon, he would reveal the main culprits of the killing of Ganassoni.

 

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Giovanni Beatrice’s involvement in the murder of the podestà Bernardino Ganassoni was in reality the work of the convergence of interests of administrator Giovan Battista Loredan, merchant Alberghino Alberghini and inquisitor Oltre Mincio Leonardo Mocenigo.

Loredan was worried that the motives that led to the murder of the podestà would emerge, so the involvement of the feared bandit would in fact make the procedural position of Martin Previdale and the other defendants definitively unrecoverable with him and with the same mayor.

The merchant Alberghino Alberghini, present in Salò in early June 1610 , together with the band of bounty hunters led by Alessandro Remer, pursued the same goal, aiming in turn to involve the two brothers Bonifacio and Ambrogio Ceruti.

 

Arriving on the Riviera in the first days of October 1610, Leonardo Mocenigo promptly endorsed the work of Loredan condemning to the scaffold one of the false witnesses involved in the trial.

 

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Among the mountain shelters, in the cave called “Cùel Zanzanù“, in the locality of Martelletto, near Droane, in Val Vestino, they killed and plundered, according to the report by administrator Lunardo Valier of 15 April 1606 and sent to the Senate of Venice, on 29 September 1611, the wealthy Stefano Protasio of Toscolano with ten accomplices.

 

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Despite the harsh repression carried out by Antonio Mocenigo, captain of Brescia, against banditry prevailing in the Riviera of Salò, through executions, the confiscation of property and banning from the Serenissima, Beatrice continued undaunted in his criminal exploits.

Between 1602 and 1609 the band “Zanoni” robbed the “cavallari” (travellers on the public road), assaulted boats on Lake Garda laden with goods, tyrannized the rural population, robbed the “mountains of mercy” of Manerba del Garda and Portese taking away 6,000 scudi and killed, according to estimates by bandit Alessandro Remer of Malcesine, about 200 people.

 

Above: Manerba del Garda

 

Hunted by the administrator Giovanni Barbaro, Zanzanù contacted the duchy of Parma, offering himself as a mercenary for Ranuccio I Farnese with the rank of lieutenant of infantry, then moved to the Cremonese until 1614 .

Returning to the Riviera in 1615, Zanzanù resumed his criminal activities.

 

Flag of Parma

Above: Duchy of Parma flag (1545 – 1731)

 

On 24 June 1615 the administrator and Captain of Salò, Marco Barbarigo, informed the Senate that Zanzanù was sheltered in Val Vestino, the jurisdiction of the lords of Lodrone, with two priests of that valley who he had made his prisoners.

 

On 27 June, in the municipality of Capovalle, the Beatrice gang clashed with a department of cappelletti.

After furious gunplay they wounded the governor’s lieutenant Vucocrutt.

 

Capovalle – Veduta

Above: Capovalle

 

The repressive activity carried out against Beatrice in this period is attested by the sentences pronounced by, the Provveditore and Capitano of the Riviera, Marco Barbarigo, in June and July 1615.

The administrator turned to the numerous supporters of the bandit, who did not disdain to help him and to host him, despite the severe penalties, threatening them on several occasions.

In particular, two women of Gargnano were condemned who, regardless of the grave consequences, were banished because, as the sentence said, they were “so bold and fearless as to leave their homes and rejoice with said Zanone, touching their hands and making them different welcome.”

 

The following year, Beatrice proposed the payment of a substantial sum of ducats to the municipalities of Tremosine and Maderno in exchange for his enlistment in the service of the Republic of Venice engaged in the Gradisca war against Austria.

The community of Gargnano, in June 1616, presented a petition from Beatrice to have it forwarded to the Heads of the Council of Ten.

In it the famous bandit, seizing the opportunity of the ongoing war with the Archdukes, offered himself, together with some of his companions, “to come and serve where your Serenity will appeal to me .

Even if the proposal was not accepted it however reveals the desire of the feared bandit to return to the places where he had lived serenely his youth.

 

Diachronic map of the Republic and the Venetian Empire.

Above: Greatest extent of the Venetian Empire

 

On 17 August 1617, following the attempted kidnapping of the wealthy Giovanni Cavalieri di Tignale, Zanzanù was chased by armed youths from the village to the Valle del Gianech, and after a furious gunfight that caused four deaths among the bandits and six among the Tignalese, Beatrice fell at last.

His body was taken to Salò on the 19th.

Hanging from the gallows his body was exposed to the public until consummation, while the head was delivered to the authorities in Brescia.

 

Above: Brescia Castle

 

A large part of the adult population of the six villages that made up the Tignale community took part in the battle.

Among the five who fell during the bloody battle there were also some of the older and wealthy men of the community, who were more motivated to settle accounts with the famous outlaw.

Zanzanù was almost certainly killed by Antonio Bertolaso ​​of Aer who, along with Maderno’s cousin Girolamo Gasperini and the group of soldiers who accompanied them, joined the bandits who were attempting their last escape.

Zanzanù and his two companions, survivors of the previous clashes, faced with the arrival of Gargnano’s men, had in fact been forced to retreat and find a last and improvised refuge in the valley of the Monible.

 

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In reality the provincial of Salò was not satisfied.

Suspicious of the number of deaths among the six villages that made up the Tignale community, he ordered an investigation to see if there had been any complicity or aid from some sectors of the local population towards the killed bandit.

Even if this suspicion was not ascertained, the investigation reveals the inherent mistrust of the authorities towards the obvious support and aid that a small part of the most humble people of the Riviera del Garda had for some time offered to Beatrice.

 

The controversial and legendary figure of Giovanni Beatrice is still remembered today by the people of the area of Alto Garda and Val Vestino.

Here, in fact, children born out of wedlock are still called fiöi del Zanzanù (sons of Zanzanù).

If some people have no hesitation in pointing it out the terrible bandit was the author of many murders and heinous actions, others believe that his figure enjoyed a certain sympathy and consensus among the people.

The latter believe that it was not the common people who hunted the brigand, but were instigated or hired by those lords (nobles, landowners, wealthy merchants) against whom Zanzanù was raging.

 

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Pietro Bellotti (1625–1700) was an Italian painter active in the Baroque period.

 

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Above: Self portrait of Pietro Bellotti

 

Born in Volciano di Salò in 1625, he gained fame as a painter of portraits and heads of characters.

He worked for Cardinal Mazzarino, Cardinal Ottoboni (the future Pope Alexander VIII), the Elector of Bavaria and others.

He was patronized by Pope Alexander VIII and by the Duke of Uceda.

In Mantova he was “superintendent of the city and villa galleries” for Gorizaga.

After wandering from court to court he returned to Lake Garda and died in poverty in Gargnano in 1700.

His principal works are:

  • La Parca Lachesi (1654) at the Museum of Stuttgart
  • The Parcae Lachesis, private collection, Brescia
  • Self-Portrait (1658) at the Uffizi Gallery, where he is depicted with a cup in his hand and a scroll with the inscription: “Hinc Hilaritas
  • Two Peasants’ Heads at the Pinacoteca di Bologna;
  • Philosopher in the Pinacoteca di Feltre;
  • Old Head at the Correr Museum;
  • Medea at the Accademia dei Concordi in Rovigo;
  • Maiden with a Turban in the Braunschweig Museum

 

Above: The Old Pilgrim, Pietro Bellotti

 

Enrica Bianchi Colombatto is an Italian actress, usually known by her stagename of Erika Blanc.

Her most notable role was as the first fictional character Emmanuelle in Io, Emmanuelle (A Man for Emmanuelle)(1969).

 

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Blanc starred in several cult European horror films, including:

  • The Third Eye (Il Terzo Occhio)(1966)
  • Kill, Baby, Kill (Operazione Paura)(1966)

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  • So Sweet… So Perverse (Cosi’ Dolce… Cosi’ Perversa)(1969)
  • The Night Evelyn Came Out of the Grave (La Notte Che Evelyn Usci’ Dalla Tomba)(1971)
  • The Devil’s Nightmare (La terrificante notte del demonico)(1971)

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  • The Red Headed Corpse (La rossa dalla pelle che scotta)(1972)

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  • Mark of the Devil, Part II (1973).

Her other film credits include roles in:

  • Django Shoots First (Django spara per primo)(1966)
  • Target Goldseven (Tecnica di una spia)(1966)
  • Blood at Sundown (La più grande capina del West)(1966)
  • Halleluja for Django (1967)
  • The Longest Hunt (Spara, Gringo, spara)(1968)
  • Seven Times Seven (7 volte 7)(1968)
  • Hell in Normandy (Brigada suicida)(1968)
  • Long Arm of the Godfather (La mano lunga del padrino)(1972)

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  • Tony Arzenta (1973)

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  • The Stranger and the Gunfighter (La dove non batte il sole)(1974)
  • Il domestico (The Domestic)(1974)
  • I figli di nessuno (Nobody’s Children)(1974)
  • Eye of the Cat (Attenti al buffone)(1976)
  • La portiera nuda (The Naked Doorwoman)(1976)
  • Dream of a Summer Night (Sogno di una notte d’estate)(1983)

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She recently returned to films with small but intense roles under the direction of Turkish-born director Ferzan Özpetek, acting as Antonia’s mother in Le fate ignoranti (The Ignorant Fairies)(2001) and as the sensitive, alcohol-addicted Maria Clara in Cuore Sacro (Sacred Heart)(2005).

In 2003 she starred as the grandmother in Adored (Poco più di un anno), directed by Marco Filiberti.

 

In 1943 Gargnano hosted Mussolini who arrived there on 10 October, where he occupied, in the San Giacomo area, Villa Feltrinelli (now a luxury hotel).

The Duce, who had recently established the Italian Social Republic, lived in the villa with his wife, Donna Rachele, and children Romano and Anna Maria.

 

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Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

 

Diodato “Uto” Ughi is an Italian violinist and conductor.

He is considered one of Italy’s greatest living violinists and is also active in the promotion of classical music in today’s culture.

When he was young he started to play the violin and he made his debut at 7 years old, at the Teatro Lirico di Milano.

At 12 years he was considered a mature artist.

Ughi involves himself in many activities to promote music culture.

He is the founder of several music festivals, namely “Omaggio a Venezia“, “Omaggio a Roma” and “Uto Ughi per Roma“.

In tandem with Bruno Tosi, Uto Ughi instituted the musical prize “Una vita per la Musica“. (“A life for music“)

On 4 September 1997, Ughi was commissioned Cavaliere della Gran Croce by the Italian President and in 2002 he received a degree honoris causa in Communication studies.

He has won various awards, the most prestigious “Una vita per la musica – Leonard Bernstein” (23/6/1997), “Galileo 2000” prize (5/7/2003) and the international prize “Ostia Mare” (8/8/2003).

 

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Above: Uto Ughi

 

Oscar Alberto Ghiglia (born 13 August 1938) is an Italian classical guitarist.

Born in Livorno to an artistic family – his father and grandfather were both famed painters, his mother an accomplished pianist – Oscar Ghiglia had to choose between a path strewn with brushes and colours and a world cut into harmony and melody.

Though his early choice produced a few hundred water colours and a number of oil paintings, he soon realized music was his way.

For this decision he thanks his father, who one day made him pose for a painting showing a guitarist.

For this he had to hold his father’s guitar, a companion to his artistic musings in front of his forming works.

This painting was the start to a lifetime of disciplined dedication to music.

Oscar Ghiglia graduated from the Santa Cecilia Conservatory in Rome and soon began study with Andrés Segovia, who was his major influence and inspiration during his formative years.

Later Oscar Ghiglia “inherited” Segovia’s class in Siena’s Accademia Chigiana and spread his own teaching around the five continents in a sister vocation to his concerts.

Oscar Ghiglia founded the Guitar Department at the Aspen Music Festival, as well as the Festival de Musique des Arcs and the “Incontri Chitarristici di Gargnano“, was artist in residence or visiting professor in such centres as the Cincinnati and San Francisco conservatories, the Juilliard School, the Hartt School and Northwestern University in Evanston, Illinois.

In all these centres and elsewhere Ghiglia has been nurturing talents and forming or perfecting young artists’ musical outlook and interpretation.

He has been teaching at the Accademia Musicale Chigiana since 1976.

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Besides touring as a solo performer, Oscar Ghiglia has played and recorded with such names as:

  • Victoria de Los Angeles
  • Jan de Gaetani
  • Gerald English
  • John McCollum
  • Jean-Pierre Rampal
  • Julius Baker
  • the Juilliard String Quartet
  • the Emerson String Quartet
  • the Cleveland String Quartet
  • the Quartetto d’archi di Venezia
  • the Tokyo String Quartet
  • Giuliano Carmignola
  • Franco Gulli
  • Salvatore Accardo
  • Régis Pasquier
  • Adam Krzeszowiec
  • Albert Roman
  • Laszlo Varga
  • Eliot Fisk
  • Shin-Ichi Fukuda
  • Letizia Guerra
  • Antigoni Goni
  • Elena Papandreou.

Oscar Ghiglia was a founding member of the International Classic Guitar Quartet.

After his CD Manuel Ponce Guitar music, a new set of recording projects was under way and his teaching continued, year long, in Basel, where he held the professorship in guitar at the Musik-Akademie der Stadt Basel from 1983 to 2004.

Founder of the International Guitar Competition of Gargnano, Ghiglia boasts a very high number of first prize winners among his students, in competitions around the world.

In 2006, after retiring from the Basel Musik-Akademie, he moved to Greece, following his marriage to colleague and former pupil Elena Papandreou, now guitar professor in the University of Makedonia in Thessaloniki.

 

Above: Basel Music Academy

 

Following his CD  J.S. Bach Lute Works, and a DVD of his favourite repertoire, he continued giving concerts across the oceans, has residencies at the universities of Cincinnati and Evanston, Illinois, and does as well summer teaching at the Accademia Chigiana of Siena and his “Incontri Chitarristici di Gargnano“.

 

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Certainly Gargnano as home to a bandit, a painter, an actress, a dictator and two world-class musicians is extremely interesting.

But it was the presence of a famous English writer in Gargnano that left me feeling frustrated at our failing to stop there in our haste to reach Riva del Garda before nightfall.

For there is much in his story that fascinates me, much that I can relate to.

 

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Above: Gargnano

 

When someone visits a place for a day and decides to stay for six months you know they must have discovered something quite special.

 

It was 1912 and David Herbert (D.H.) Lawrence (1885 – 1930) was having an affair with Frieda von Richthofen (1879 – 1956), the wife of his university professor.

 

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Above: D. H. Lawrence

 

Wanting to escape from both her husband and the turmoil of the Industrial Revolution in full swing in England, the pair decided to set off on their travels to discover new people, cultures and a more relaxing lifestyle.

Their first destination was Frieda’s homeland of Germany, but soon they wanted to travel further south, so, after a short stay in the Tyrol, they set off, with their knapsacks on their backs, on a long trek over the Dolomites, via Bolzano and Trento.

 

 

By September 1912 they reached the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Riva del Garda.

Like so many authors, Lawrence fell in love with the Lake and the endless inspiration it could provide a creative mind, but Riva proved too expensive for them to set up a permanent residence.

 

Above: Riva del Garda

 

On Wednesday 18 September 1912, David and Frieda left Villa Leonardi di Riva del Garda and decided to go on a boat trip to the smaller town of Gargnano and heard by chance about a flat that was available to rent within their budget.

It became their home from 18 September 1912 until 30 March 1913.

 

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Above: David and Frieda

 

Even though a century has passed since Lawrence and Frieda arrived in Gargnano, little has changed in the town, apart from a few essential roads now winding their way through the centre and more houses popping up to extend the town’s boundaries.

Gargnano has essentially escaped the tourist trappings of many of the Lake’s most popular locations, and so it is still possible to walk around the area and follow Lawrence’s footsteps to recreate a few of his experiences.

Lawrence and Frieda’s Lake Garda flat was located on the second floor of a large yellow-painted building at via Colletta 44 called Villa Igea, which now wears a discreet white marble plaque revealing its most famous resident.

 

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Above: Villa Igea, Villa, Gargnano

 

VILLA IGEA

DIMORA DI D.H. LAWRENCE

DAL SETTEMBRE 1912 ALL’ APRILE 1913

 

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No explanation of Lawrence’s identity is given.

 

Situated in San Gaudenzio di Muslone (known today as simply Villa), a small village on the outskirts of Gargnano, the rent was cheap but the flat still benefited from stunning views of the Lake.

The house became, for the two lovers, a refuge from which to observe the daily life of the country, the changes of nature with the arrival of spring, the spectacular scenery and local traditions.

Lawrence transcribed all of his impressions of this long exploration in numerous letters sent to England to family, friends, fellow writers and editors.

Lawrence often commented on how he would lie in bed of a morning and watch the sun rise over the mountains, eventually filling the room with light.

To him, this was paradise.

 

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Gargnano was an escape from the culture of money and machinery that he so deeply detested, and the people of Gargnano the keepers of an ancient and impassive world that remains unruffled by and resistant to the upheaval of tumultuous modernity.

Lawrence used the most beautiful and fascinating words to capture daily moments and images of a landscape and nature that managed to soothe the pains of the young writer.

 

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Though not everything Lawrence wrote was so pleasant:

When at night the moon shines full on this pale facade, the theatre is far outdone in staginess.

Now everything is theatrical.

 

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Like living on a set where everything demanded literary criticism.

 

He wrote that the theatrical performances that he witnessed in Castellani Hall did not leave a very positive impression and he did not write an overly complimentary account of the teacher Feltrelline from whom they received lessons in French, German and Italian.

 

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The sunshine and climate were actually the main motivations for Lawrence and Frieda to stay on Lake Garda.

Lawrence was suffering from tuberculosis and the sun was thought to offer a vital source of energy to help battle the disease.

 

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But it provided him with inspiration too, and far from being a holiday or time for convalescence, Lawrence wrote many of his best works while staying in Villa Igea.

He finished Sons and Lovers, started work on The Lost Girl which would later be called The Rainbow and The Sisters which became Women In Love, plus penned his first travel book Twilight In Italy.

 

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(Catherine Brown attended the 13th International D.H. Lawrence Conference held in Gargnano in 2014:

One evening we saw a performance, by local actors (plus John Worthen) of The Fight for Barbara.

Written by Lawrence during his stay in Gargnano, this play thought through the difficulties and possibilities (including disastrous ones) of his elopement with Frieda.

Yet the play is of questionable comprehensibility to Italians.

The husband threatens Barbara with his own suicide.

An Italian husband of Lawrence’s period would have killed her or her lover, or abducted her, or at least threatened some such thing.

Certainly not talked about suicide.

Barbara’s father reminds the lover that married women are out of bounds.

An Italian man of Lawrence’s period would have seen a married woman as a particular prize, and certainly not have lectured another man to the contrary.”)

 

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It was not an easy time for the two young lovers.

They lived in a precarious position, with Lawrence trying to support them both with his writing, hoping not to be forced to look for a job as a teacher, a profession he hated.

Frieda lived with the hope of seeing her children as soon as possible, having left them to escape with Lawrence, pending the conclusion of her divorce from her husband Ernest Weekley.

 

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Above: Frieda and D.H.

 

It is in Twilight In Italy that we discover most about Lawrence’s time on Lake Garda, as he takes us with him on his day-to-day encounters with the locals and explores his surroundings.

One such encounter involved visiting his landlord, who he refers to as the padrone.

The padrone lived in a grand house called Villa De Paoli set just behind Lawrence’s flat.

It has now been transformed into offices and a car park, but next to the building you will find a garden shaded by beautiful olive trees and featuring a pergola under which Lawrence liked to sit and watch the daily comings and goings of the boats on the Lake.

 

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It was in the grounds of Villa De Paoli that Lawrence had his first experience of Lake Garda’s iconic lemon houses.

Unlike anything he had ever seen before, in Twilight in Italy he described them as looking like naked pillars, rising out of the green foliage like ruins of temples.

While the fruit was growing and the sun shining on the leaves Lawrence thought the houses were beautiful, but as soon as winter arrived he regarded them as sordid and ugly because of the big wooden shutters that were put up to protect the trees from the inclement weather.

Before he knew the purpose of the wooden greenhouses he was confused by the sight of men climbing up ladders and leaping from one small ledge to the next, in order to lay the large wooden panels across the pillars and hammering loudly as they did so.

Having just left behind an industrial England, it was also odd for him to see everything being done by hand.

Despite hating the machines, Lawrence saw the Italian way of doing things as backwards, as if they were living in the past.

 

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Today the only sign of Villa De Paoli’s lemon house is the presence of a few pillars hidden behind the car park.

A sad reminder of a once majestic past.

As you walk along the main road from Villa to Gargnano you will however come across La Molora, a private lemon house that the owner is working hard to restore to its prime.

Here you can see for yourself the imposing pillars and lemon trees working their way up the hill, in the way that Lawrence was so intrigued and perplexed.

 

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From his flat, Lawrence could see a church set on a slight hill overlooking the village, that he often glanced at but never thought to visit.

One day when he heard the gentle ringing of the church bells he decided to try and find out more about it.

There was no obvious path to the church, so Lawrence went out the back door of his house and made his way through the narrow side streets,  unsure of quite where he was going.

It was while walking these side streets of Villa that Lawrence felt the most alien and alone during his time on Lake Garda.

 

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Above: San Tommaso, Villa, Gargnano

 

In Twilight in Italy he describes how odd it was walking through the narrow passageways, which were dark and shady compared to the brightly-lit paths by the lakeside.

He could see the town’s inhabitants staring at him suspiciously through their windows, wondering who this stranger was.

Gargnano wasn’t often visited by tourists and so Lawrence felt that his pale skin shone out even more here, and feared that it turned him into something of a spectacle.

 

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Lawrence writes about the church and cloister of San Francesco on via Roma in Gargnano.

He put the simple Romanesque church of San Francesco (built in 1289) in the category of churches of the dove, which he defined as “shy and hidden“.

They nestle among trees or they are gathered into silence of their own, in the very midst of the town so that one passes them by without observing them.”

He says of San Francisco:

I passed it several times in the dark, silent little square, without knowing it was a church.

(The road has since been widened so the square is no longer discernible.)

 

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Lawrence was captivated by the cloister, which became a citrus fruit warehouse at the end of the 19th century, with “its beautiful and original carvings of leaves and fruits upon the pillars“.

 

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After several unsuccessful attempts to reach the San Tomasso church, Lawrence eventually discovered a long broken stairway that led him to the courtyard of San Tommaso, or one of the churches of the eagles – which “stand high, with their heads to the skies, as if they challenged the world below” –  which still provides access to the building today.

 

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He “came out suddenly, as by a miracle, clean on the platform of my San Tommaso, in the tremendous sunshine.

It was another world, a world of fierce abstraction.

The thin old church standing above the light, as if perched on the house roofs.

Its thin grey neck was held up stiffly.

Beyond was a vision of dark foliage and high hillside.

 

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When you reach the summit you will be greeted by a similar sight as Lawrence’s.

Countless red-slated roofs spread out beneath you, giving way to the seemingly never-ending water of the lake.

It’s hardly surprising that Lawrence described this platform as suspended above the village like the lowest step of heaven or Jacob’s ladder.

The terrace of San Tommaso is let down from heaven and does not touch the Earth.

 

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Everywhere Lawrence went in Villa and Gargnano seemed to provide him with the new experiences and inspiration he had been searching for when he first embarked on his travels.

San Tommaso certainly found a special place in his heart.

 

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As you wander the streets of Villa and Gargnano,  stopping briefly at the pretty little harbour where Lawrence first arrived in the town and passing by the theatre which remains as it would have looked to Lawrence on the outside, you can see why he chose to stay here so long.

Italy and Lake Garda are familiar destinations for us today, but for Lawrence there was still so much to explore and understand, so much that was alien and intimidating and yet at the same time captivating and exciting.

He couldn’t help but be drawn to the unique character of the town, the intriguing local people and the beauty of the lake itself.

 

 

The Hotel Gardenia al Lago is a hotel in Villa, a romantic little village administered by Gargnano, the largest and most distinctive municipality on the “lemon Riviera”.

It stands, proud and elegant, with its Mitteleuropean architecture, right on the shores of Lake Garda, with the mountain peaks of the Parco Alto Garda Bresciano nature reserve as its backdrop.

The waters of the Lake lap the edges of the magnificent garden and surround the panoramic lookout point in the dining room, and on the opposite shore stands the majestic Monte Baldo mountain range, which generously lays on the most unforgettable displays of light and colour at both sunrise and sunset.

Hotel Gardenia al Lago has a particular charm and aura, not due to the opulence and richness of its décor, but to its harmonious setting, the elegance of its rooms, furnished with pieces from the old house dating back to 1925, and to the warm welcome given by the Arosio family, who have owned and run the hotel personally for three generations.

 

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Inside the Hotel, on the 4th floor, guests will find an exhibition dedicated to Lawrence, organized in 2012 by the Historic Gargnano Committee, on the centennial of the writer’s residence.

Through the descriptive panels and photographs, you can trace the life of the writer, famous for having written Lady Chatterley’s Lover and Sons and Lovers.

 

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I longed to visit Villa.

I longed to relax in a waterfront café by the port of Gargnano.

 

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I wished to wander around the abandoned olive factory, the lakefront villas with their boathouses, the Palazzo Comunale with the two cannonballs wedged in the walls from the aforementioned naval bombings.

 

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I longed to stroll along the road which leads out of Gargnano from the harbour for 3 km past the beach and through olive and lemon groves, past the Villa Feltrinelli – the grand lakeside house / world-class hotel with tastefully furnished rooms (€1,380 per night) where Mussolini once ruled….

 

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To the tiny 11th century Chapel of San Giacomo di Calino.

I wanted to look, on the side facing the lake, under the portico where fishermen keep their equipment, at the 13th century fresco of St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers.

 

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But we were not travellers.

 

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We were tourists, and tourists by their very nature value the destination far more than the journey.

We do not linger in Toscolano-Maderno.

We do not stroll through Gargnano.

We do not detour down the road to Lake Idro through the hills of Valvestino.

 

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We are on a mission.

We will not procrastinate.

We do not see the green of olive trees or the blue of the sky and the Lake.

 

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I love my wife, so practical and pragmatic.

A better wife than I will ever deserve.

 

 

But a quiet voice within me weeps.

It longs to one day find a place and on that day spontaneously decide to linger there for six months or for a lifetime.

 

I say nothing as we zoom past Toscolano-Maderno.

I am silent as we speed past Gargnano.

 

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My mind’s eye sees sailboats afloat on turquoise waters, orchards of olives and groves of lemons, huge stone walls and tall pillars, testaments of memory.

 

 

The Buddha is rumoured to have said that the greatest folly of men is that we believe that we have more time to live than we are actually granted.

 

 

Nonetheless I find myself thinking about retracing the routes followed and described in Lawrence’s Twilight in Italy.

To walk from Innsbruck to Riva del Garda or from Schaffhausen to Milan, time and money be damned….

That would be amazing.

 

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But as the years zoom by at breathtaking speed I find myself entering a state of obscurity, of ambiguity, a general decline.

 

It is twilight when we reach Riva.

 

The soft gleaming glow of the sky is light clinging to a descending sun disappearing below the horizon, a semi-darkness, the gloom of a dying day.

So much to see, so much to do, so little time before night falls.

 

Such is twilight in Italy.

And everywhere else.

 

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Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Sally Fitzgerald, “D.H. Lawrence’s Lake Garda”, http://www.travelandlife.com / http://www.lakefrontboutiquehotels.com / http://www.gargnanosulgarda.com  / Gaby Logan, “Gargnano Celebrates D.H. Lawrence Centennial“, http://www.italymagazine.com / D.H. Lawrence, Twilight in Italy

 

Canada Slim and the Swedish Pinot

Landschlacht, Switzerland, 20 April 2019

The Norwegians find them insufferably puffed up.

The Danes consider them to be party poopers.

The Brits see them as sexy but cold.

The Americans think they are Swiss!

 

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Above: Flag of Sweden

 

Author Sven Linquist summed it up thus:

The Swedes look at the world through a square frame nailed together by Martin Luther, Gustav Vasa (the founder of the Swedish state), the Temperance Movement and 100 years of socialism.

Luther contributed the Swedish taste for simplicity.

Vasa gave the Swedes a national identity.

The Temperance Movement gave rise to the Swedish tendency to be sanctimonious.

Socialism gave the Swedes a mentality of work as necessary but not everything.

 

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Foreigners living in Sweden find the natives socially impenetrable, as neighbours mind their own business and colleagues go straight home after work.

The Swedes themselves don’t actually dislike any nation in particular, because they are quietly confident in Swedish superiority.

Foreigners are good news, because with their funny faces and horrific habits they remind Swedes how wonderful it is to be Swedish and normal.

 

 

I have vacationed in Sweden with my wife and I have worked with a Swede in Switzerland and I find very little that is objectionable about the Swedes.

I find them less puffed up than Parisians, more party hardy than my fellow Canadians, as sexy as teenage voyeurism once suggested but not tempting enough to test my marriage vows, and I see in them more similarities with their Scandinavian neighbours than they would care to admit.

 

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Simple?

Maybe the architecture and IKEA furniture is, but a Swedish woman is no less and no more complicated than her international counterparts.

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Patriotic?

Certainly, they are not more patriotic than Canadians or Swiss.

Though they display their national flag everywhere as the Americans do theirs, the Swedish are far more secure in their superiority than the Americans are.

 

The Swedes don’t need to boast.

They simply and quietly know their own value.

 

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Above: The coat of arms of Sweden

 

Sanctimonious?

Perhaps the women are, for the Swedes believe that they are the first in the world to achieve total equality between the sexes, thus a man who isn’t taciturn and submissive is a threat to that uneasy balance between the sexes.

I feel that in the quest to be emancipated the Swedish female feels threatened if the male requests the same.

Only a woman dares tell a man how wrong he is.

A man dares not do the same to her without serious conflict and consequence.

 

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As for the work ethic, I can only say that the Sweet Suede that I once worked with was a hardy and competent and well-respected worker beloved by both staff and customers.

 

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I never thought that I would even think about Sweden and Swedish women during my visit to the Alsace Wine Route.

I was wrong.

 

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Alsace, France, 2 January 2019

Alsace is the smallest region in France as regards area, but the most highly populated as regards density.

Alsace has 1,734,000 inhabitants – 209 inhabitants per square kilometre, whereas the average number of inhabitants per square kilometre in Metropolitan France is 108.

This is by no means the only peculiarity of this region….

 

Location of Alsace

 

Officially the Alsace Wine Route is broken into two sections: the one most folks travel and the northern section most don’t.

The northern section begins in the town of Wissembourg.

 

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I have written about Wissembourg before.

A monastery town and former garrison, Wissembourg offers numerous attractions such as the Abbey Church of St. Peter and St. Paul with its gigantic representation of St. Christopher, the Fritz House built in 1550, and the Bruch – the town’s old quarter.

 

 

(Please see Canada Slim and the Burning King of my other blog Building Everest for more on Wissembourg.  https://buildingeverest.wordpress.com)

 

Far away from the traditional half of the famous Alsatian wine route between Marlenheim and Thann, quite competitive wine is also being produced near Wissembourg at the base of the first foothills of the northern Vosges in heavy, fat clay soil.

 

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Viticulture here has a long tradition.

Introduced by the roamin’ Romans, later promoted by the monks of Wissembourg, today 200 sideline wine makers cultivate some 175 hectares of all sorts of grape varieties like Graubünden, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer, from the five villages of Rott, Oberhoffen, Steinseltz, Riedseltz and Cleebourg.

 

 

Private wine sales are not common as the wine makers deliver almost all of their grapes to the Cleebourg Wine Cooperative which wine lovers should not miss.

 

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In the lovely hilly countryside around the five villages with their vineyards and numerous fruit trees you can also go for a walk and then stop in at the Ferme Auberge Moulin des 7 Fontaines (Mill of the Seven Fountains) in the area – a particularly beautiful place.

 

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A 47 minute, 3.5 kilometre stroll south west of Wissembourg finds the pedestrian in the village of Rott (population: 473) where one finds a barrel that the enterprising Mayor Louis Andres Rott turned into a bar, engraved with the worthy maxim:

If you drink, you die.

If you don’t drink you die, so….

 

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Above: Rott, Alsace, France

 

Rott is one of 50 Alsatian communities with a simultaneum (or shared church) with different Christian denominations meeting at different times and presided over by different clergy.

Above the village on the Col de Pigeonnier stands the electric tower, the Émetteur de l’Eselsberg.

 

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The Cleebourg vineyard is at the northernmost point of the Alsatian winemaking area and covers all its communes as well as Wissembourg, the main town in the canton.

The vineyard stretches from Rott, with its belfry / clock tower overlooking the cemetery that doubled as a defensive hideout in the 18th century, to Riedseltz on the banks of the Rhine.

Planted mainly with hybrids or fallen into disuse until the end of the Second World War, the vines were uprooted and the vineyards replanted with the now-famous classic Alsace varieties since the 1950s.

The local wine producers belong to the Cleebourg cooperative, which has an excellent reputation for all things Pinot, including a blanc de blanc crémant, the Prince Casimir.

 

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Follow the signs of the small rural routes to the village of Oberhoffen lès Wissembourg.

With about 300 inhabitants, Oberhoffen-lès-Wissembourg is one of the smallest communes in the community of communes whose main resource comes from the communal forest.

 

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Orchards and vineyards surround the village.

The vines that contribute to the development of the Karschweg, the Pinot gris (formerly Tokay pinot gris) local vinified by the Cleebourg cooperative cellar.

 

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The discovery of the village can also be done by taking the tree path that crosses the town.

 

Located at the foot of the Vosges hills, Oberhoffen-lès-Wissembourg was first attached to the bailiwick of Cleebourg, then passed under the influence of Puller de Hohenbourg to finish as the Duchy of Deux-Ponts where it will remain until the revolution.

It was not until 1927 that the town became known as Oberhoffen-lès-Wissembourg because of its geographical proximity to Wissembourg.

 

 

Close by is the equally small village of Steinseltz by the River Hausauerbach in the region known as Outre-Forêt (“beyond the forest“).

 

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The origin of the history of Steinseltz is closely linked to that of the Abbey of Wissembourg, founded in the 8th century by the monk Dagobert of Speyer.

Locals still bear witness to this distant time like that of Auf der Hub.

A hub was a plot of land rented by the convent to private individuals against a well-defined tenancy.

In 1401, after the decline of the Abbey of Wissembourg, the lords of Hohenbourg, seized the village as well as those of Cleebourg, Oberhoffen-lès-Wissembourg and Rott.

His successor Wirich II built Castle Cleebourg in 1412.

 

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In 1475, Wirich III allied with Duke Louis de Deux-Ponts against the Elector Palatine Frédéric.

Victorious, the latter annexed the village of Steinseltz.

 

In 1504, Maximilian of Habsburg attributed the village of Steinseltz to the Duchy of Zweibrücken, which thus exercised a right of collation.

They integrated Steinseltz to the Bailiwick of Cleebourg, which they held until the Revolution.

 

On 4 August 1870, the Imperial Prince Frederick William went to the locality of Schafbusch to bow before the remains of Abel Douay.

 

In Steinseltz, every August in odd years, there is a feast in honor of the geranium, a symbol of Alsace.

 

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At the heart of the village, Ferme Burger welcomes, every first Wednesday of the month, a market of local and organic products.

There are food products (breads, vegetables, fruits, oils, chocolate, honey) as well as aesthetic products such as essential oils, soaps or herbs.

 

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And Steinseltz produced Marie….

 

Marie (Trautmann) Jaëll (17 August 1846 – 4 February 1925) was a French pianist, composer and pedagogue.

 

 

Marie Jaëll composed pieces for piano, concertos, quartets, and others.

She dedicated her cello concerto to Jules Delsart and was the first pianist to perform all the piano sonatas of Beethoven in Paris.

She did scientific studies of hand techniques in piano playing and attempted to replace traditional drilling with systematic piano methods.

Her students included Albert Schweitzer, who studied with her while also studying organ with Charles-Marie Widor in 1898-99.

Her father was the mayor of Steinseltz in Alsace and her mother was a lover of the arts.

 

She began piano studies at the age of six and by seven, she was studying under piano pedagogues F.B. Hamma and Ignaz Moscheles in Stuttgart.

Marie’s mother served as her advocate and manager.

A year after she began lessons with Hamma and Moscheles, she gave concerts in Germany and Switzerland.

In 1856, the ten-year-old Marie was introduced to the piano teacher Heinrich Herz at the Paris Conservatory.

 

 

After just four months as an official student at the Conservatory, she won the First Prize of Piano.

Her performances were recognized by the public and local newspapers.

 

The Revue et gazette musicale printed a review on 27 July 1862 that read: “She marked the piece with the seal of her individual nature.

Her higher mechanism, her beautiful style, her play deliciously moderate, with an irreproachable purity, an exquisite taste, a lofty elegance, constantly filled the audience with wonder.

 

On August 9, 1866, at twenty years of age, Marie married the Austrian concert pianist, Alfred Jaëll.

 

Above: Alfred Jaell (1832 – 1882)

 

She was then known variously as Marie Trautmann, Marie Jaëll, Marie Jaëll Trautmann or Marie Trautmann Jaëll.

Alfred was fifteen years older than Marie and had been a student of Chopin.

The husband and wife team performed popular pieces, duos, solos, and compositions of their own throughout Europe and Russia.

As a pianist, Marie specialized in the music of Schumann, Liszt, and Beethoven.

They transcribed Beethoven’s “Marcia alla Turca Athens Ruins” for piano.

The score was successfully published in 1872.

Alfred was able to use his success and fame to help Marie meet with various composers and performers throughout their travels.

 

In 1868, Marie met the composer and pianist Franz Liszt.

A record of Liszt’s comments about Marie survives in an article published in the American Record Guide:

Marie Jaëll has the brains of a philosopher and the fingers of an artist.

Liszt introduced Marie to other great composers and performers of the day—for example, Johannes Brahms and Anton Rubinstein.

 

By 1871, Marie’s compositions began to be published.

With the death of her husband in 1881, Marie had the opportunity to study with Liszt in Weimar and with Camille Saint-Saëns and César Franck in Paris.

She also had composition lessons with César Franck and Camille Saint-Saëns, who dedicated his Piano Concerto No. 1 and the Étude en forme de valse to her.

Saint-Saëns thought highly enough of Marie to introduce her to the Society of Music Composers—a great honor for women in those days.

 

After struggling with tendonitis, Jaëll began to study neuroscience.

The strain on her playing and performing led her to research physiology.

Jaëll studied a wide variety of subjects pertaining to the functioning of the body and also ventured into psychology:

She wanted to combine the emotional and spiritual act of creating beautiful music with the physiological aspects of tactile, additive, and visual sensory.

Dr. Charles Féré assisted Jaëll in her research of physiology.

 

Her studies included how music affects the connection between mind and body, as well as how to apply this knowledge to intelligence and sensitivity in teaching music.

 

Liszt’s music had such a tremendous influence on Jaëll that she sought to gain as much insight into his methods and techniques as possible.

 

This research and study lead to Jaëll creating her own teaching method based on her findings.

Jaëll’s teaching method was known as the ‘Jaëll Method‘.

Her method was created through a process of trial and error with herself and her students.

Jaëll’s goal was for her students to feel a deep connection to the piano.

An eleven-book series on piano technique resulted from her research and experience.

Piano pedagogues have since drawn insight into teaching techniques of the hand from her method and books.

In fact, her method is still in use today.

As a result of her studies, Jaëll was able to compile her extensive research into a technique book entitled L’intelligence et le rythme dans les mouvements artistiques.

This text is used by pianists and piano pedagogues as a reference, specifically with hand position and playing techniques.

She died in Paris.

 

 

Walk out of Jaell’s Steinseltz and head west and then south following signposts to Cleebourg.

Cleebourg is a quiet village, with some half-timbered winemakers’ houses built on sandstone bedrock.

Cleebourg’s vineyards are the northernmost point of the Wine Route and though they are planted with the classic varieties, Pinot Gris is indisputably the most successful wine made here.

The grapes, grown on a rocky volcanic soil, produce crisp wine with a characteristically smoky aroma with lily undertones.

Cleebourg used to belong to the Palatin Zweibrückens, but a curious love story in the 17th century brought it under the Swedish crown….

 

Image result for cleebourg images

 

John Casimir, Count Palatine of Zweibrücken-Kleeburg (1589 – 1652) was the son of John I, Count Palatine of Zweibrücken and his wife, Duchess Magdalene of Jülich-Cleves-Berg and was the founder of a branch of Wittelsbach Counts Palatine often called the Swedish line, because it gave rise to three subsequent kings of Sweden, but more commonly known as the Kleeburg (or Cleebourg) line.

 

Johan Kasimir, 1589-1652, Count Palatine of Zweibrücken (David Beck) - Nationalmuseum - 15921.tif

 

In 1591 his father stipulated that, as the youngest son, John Casimir would receive as appanage the countship of Neukastell in the Palatinate.

Upon their father’s death in 1611, however, the eldest son, John II, Count Palatine of Zweibrucken, instead signed a compromise with John Casimir whereby the latter received only the castle at Neukastell coupled with an annuity of 3000 florins from the countship’s revenues (similarly, John Casimir’s elder brother, Frederick Casimir, received the castle at Landsberg with a small surrounding domain, instead of the entire Landsberg appanage bequeathed to him paternally).

On 11 June 1615, Casimir married his second cousin Catherine of Sweden, and their son eventually became King Charles X of Sweden.

Five of his children with Catherine survived infancy:

  • Christina Magdalena (1616–1662)
    • married Frederick VI, Margrave of Baden-Durlach.
    • King Adolf Frederick of Sweden was her great-grandson.
  • King Charles X Gustav of Sweden (1622–1660)
  • Maria Eufrosyne (1625–1687)
    • married Count Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie
  • Eleonora Catherine (1626–1692)
    • married Frederick, Landgrave of Hesse-Eschwege
  • Adolf John (1629–1689)

 

Catherine of Sweden (Swedish: Katarina) (1584 – 1638) was a Swedish princess and a Countess Palatine of Zweibrücken as the consort of her second cousin John Casimir of Palatinate-Zweibrücken.

 

Katarina, 1584-1638, prinsessa av Sverige pfalzgrevinna av Zweibrücken (Jacob Heinrich Elbfas) - Nationalmuseum - 15100.tif

 

She is known as the periodical foster mother of Queen Christina of Sweden.

 

Catherine was the daughter of King Charles IX of Sweden and his first spouse Maria of the Palatinate-Simmern.

Her personality was described as “a happy union of her father’s power and wisdom and her mother’s tender humility“.

Her mother died in 1589 and Catherine was placed in the care of the German Euphrosina Heldina von Dieffenau, whom she praised much later in life.

 

In 1592, her father remarried to Christina of Holstein-Gottorp.

She reportedly got along well with her stepmother and was close to her half siblings, especially her eldest brother, the future King Gustavus Adolphus, who is noted to have been very affectionate toward her.

In later letters to her consort, however, it seems that she was not always as much in agreement with her stepmother as she gave the impression to be.

 

Her father became regent in 1598 and was crowned king in 1607.

 

In 1611, her brother succeeded her father as King Gustavus Adolphus.

Her brother found Catherine sensible and wise and she is reported to have acted as his confidante and adviser on several occasions.

 

Catherine married late for a Princess of her period.

Although she was a great heiress, her status on the international royal marriage market was uncertain because of the political situation in Sweden after her father had conquered the throne from his nephew Sigismund.

Her parents’ marriage had been an alliance with the anti-Habsburg party in Germany, which in turn was allied with King Henry IV of France and the French Huguenots.

 

Coat of arms of Sweden.svg

 

In 1599, there were plans to arrange a marriage between her and the Protestant French Prince Henri, Duke of Rohan, leader of the French Huguenots.

Henry married Marguerite de Béthune in 1603.

After the Treaty of Knäred in 1613, her status became more secure.

 

With the support of her stepmother Queen Dowager Christina, the queen dowager’s brother Archbishop John Frederik of Bremen arranged the marriage between Catherine and her relative (Count Palatine) John Casimir of Palatinate-Zweibrücken.

Though relatively poor, he had contacts which were deemed valuable to Sweden, though Count Axel Oxenstierna opposed the marriage.

The marriage took place on 11 June 1615 in Stockholm.

 

Royalpalace Stockholm.jpg

Above: Stockholm Royal Palace

 

Catherine was, by the will of both her parents as well as by the law regarding the dowry of Swedish Princesses, one of the wealthiest heirs in Sweden.

As the economic situation at the time was strained, she remained in Sweden the first years after her marriage to guard her interests.

 

In January 1618, she left for Alsace.

There, the couple was given the Kleeburg Castle as their residence.

The year after, John Casimir started to build a new residence, the Renaissance Palace Katharinenburg near Kleeburg.

 


 

In 1620, the Thirty Years’ War forced them to flee to Strasbourg.

In 1622, her brother King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden asked her to return to Sweden with her family.

The death of her younger brother in Sweden, as well as the lack of heirs to the Swedish throne was evidently the reason why the monarch wished to move her to safety away from the Thirty Years’ War.

Catherine accepted the invitation and arrived to Sweden with her family in June 1622.

At her arrival, the birth of her son Charles immediately strengthened her position.

 

In Sweden, she and her consort were granted Stegeborg Castle and a county in Östergötland as their fief and residence and as payment of her dowry:

Catherine was styled Countess of Stegeborg.

Catherine and John Casimir settled in well at Stegeborg, where they maintained a royal standard of living:

They kept a court with 60 formal ladies-in-waiting and courtiers and an official table.

 

 

Catherine actively engaged herself in the management of the estates, and was in 1626 given Skenas Royal Estate as her personal fief.

 

Catherine was on very good terms with her brother King Gustavus Adolphus, who is known to have asked her for advice.

During his trips, he often asked her to try to console and control his consort, Queen Maria Eleonora.

 

Catherine was exposed to certain intrigues at court with the purpose of blackening her name in the eyes of the royal couple, but she managed to avoid these plots.

She was on good terms with the dynasties of Pfalz and Brandenburg, with whom she corresponded and who considered her to be wise and to have good judgment.

 

In 1631, Catherine was given the custody of her niece, Princess Christina, the heir to the throne, when the queen was allowed to join the king in Germany, where he participated in the Thirty Years’ War.

Christina remained in her care until Maria Eleonora returned to Sweden upon the death of Gustavus Adolphus in 1632.

 

After the death of King Gustavus Adolphus, the couple came in conflict with the Guardian Government of Queen Christina over their position and rights to Stegeborg.

When John Casimir broke with the royal council in 1633, the couple retired from court to Stegeborg.

Catherine did not show any interest in participation in state affairs.

 

In 1636, however, Queen Dowager Maria Eleonora was deemed an unsuitable guardian and deprived of the custody of the young monarch, and Catherine was appointed official guardian and foster mother with the responsibility of the young queen’s upbringing.

The appointment was made upon the recommendation of Count Axel Oxenstierna and she reportedly accepted the task with reluctance.

This appointment destroyed her relationship with Maria Eleonora.

 

The years in Catherine’s care are described by Christina as happy ones.

Princess Catherine personally enjoyed great respect and popularity in Sweden as a member of the royal house and as the foster parent of the monarch:

 

However, this respect did not include her consort, who was given no task or position at court whatsoever.

John Casimir was himself careful to point out her rank as a Royal Princess, but he was himself exposed to some humiliation because of their difference in rank.

One example was at the opening of Parliament in 1633, when Catherine in accordance with the wish of the Royal Council followed Queen Christina in the procession, while John Casimir was given the choice to stand and watch the ceremony from a window or not be present at all.

 

Catherine died in Västerås, where the royal court had fled from an outbreak of plague in Stockholm.

At her death, Axel Oxenstierna said, that he would rather have buried his own mother twice, than once again see “the premature death of this noble Princess“.

After her death, the royal council appointed two foster mothers for the queen to replace her: Countess Ebba Leijonhufvud and Christina Natt och Dag.

The Katarina kyrka in Stockholm is named after her.

 

Katarina kyrka January 2013 02.jpg

 

The marriage of John and Katarina reminds me of two other marriages: Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, and my own.

 

 

Victoria and Albert were, like John and Katarina, cousins.

The Princes Consort were considered less worthy of respect than their lady heiresses to major kingdoms’ thrones.

Both royal couples gave birth to children who would rise to great power.

 

My wife and I are not cousins nor nobility of any sort, but, like Katarina, my wife is considered sensible and wise.

She, like many women, could certainly have married a man far more appropriate for her and her ambitions, and yet we, like John and Katarina, like Victoria and Albert, have remained together despite our inequalities.

Like John and Katarina, my wife and I lived apart from one another for years despite our union.

I, like John, followed my bride to her home country.

 

 

(Less than 4 kilometres south of Cleebourg is the municipality of Drachenbronn-Birlenbach, where one can find both the original site of Katharienburg as well as the Musée Pierre Jost.

The Pierre Jost Museum is situated near the Ouvrage Hochwald, one of the major fortifications of the Maginot Line in France, which documents the story of the fortifications before, during and after World War II.

The Ouvrage Hochwald fortification was built in the Hochwald massif between 1929 and 1935 and was the strongest in Alsace.

It was capable of housing 1,200 men.

It had eleven blocks, with turrets, casemates to house the infantry, three entry blocks and an anti-tank ditch.

 

Maginot Line 1944.jpg

 

Construction of the Museum in honor of the builders and defenders of the Maginot Line began in 1972, led by Pierre Jost.

The Museum was set up in the old M1 magazine.

The original museum was closed in 2009 since it no longer met public safety standards.

On 12 September 2011 the museum was re-opened in building T4 at airbase 901 in Drachenbronn-Birlenbach.

The new premises, opened in time for Heritage Day on 18 September 2011, has more than 350 square metres (3,800 sq ft) of space.

 

Related image

 

The first room has some artillery pieces, in use until 1940, and press clippings of the early days of liberation towards the end of World War II.

The Museum has rooms for exhibits that cover each period in the life of the fortification:

  • Construction in 1930–1935
  • Occupation by the French in 1935–1940
  • Occupation by the Germans in 1940–1945
  • The Cold War, when the fortification was viewed as defense against Soviet tanks advancing towards Paris.
  • The room for the 1935–1940 period has the equipment, arms and personal effects of soldiers of that period.
  • The 1940–1945 room has German propaganda posters and relics from the liberation.
  • Part of the Museum also tells the story of the airbase.
  • There are many photographs showing the daily life of the soldiers during the different periods.

Sadly, the Musée Pierre Jost is open only during the Journées des Patrimoine, three days each September.)

 

Alsace is wine-growing country.

 

Image result for alsace wine route images

 

It has long been so and will probably long be so, but Sweden, on the other hand….

 

 

Sweden is well north of the area where the European vine, Vitis vinifera, occurs naturally.

 

There is no tradition of wine production from grapes in the country.

 

Some sources claim that some monastic vineyards were established when the Roman Catholic church established monasteries in Sweden in medieval times, when Sweden’s climate was milder, but traces of this supposed viticulture are much less evident than the corresponding activities in England, for example.

Small-scale growing of grapes in Swedish orangeries and other greenhouses have occurred for a long time, but the purpose of such plantations were either to provide fruit (grapes) or for decoration or exhibition purposes and not to provide grapes for wine production.

 

Towards the end of the 20th century, commercial viticulture slowly crept north, into areas than the well-established wine regions, as evidenced by Canadian wine, English wine and Danish wine.

This trend was partially made possible by the use of new hybrid grape varieties and partially by new viticultural techniques.

 

The idea of commercial freeland viticulture in Sweden appeared in the 1990s.

Some pioneers, especially in Skåne (Scania), took their inspiration from nearby Denmark, where viticulture started earlier than in Sweden, while others took their inspiration from experiences in other winemaking countries.

 

Perhaps surprisingly, the first two wineries of some size were not established in the far south of Sweden, but in Södermanland County close to Flen (in an area where orchards were common) and on the island of Gotland, which has the largest number of sunshine hours in Sweden.

Later expansions have mostly taken place in Scania, though.

 

There are also small-scale viticulturalists who grow their grapes in greenhouses rather than in the open.

 

Small quantities of a few commercial wines made their way into the market via Systembolaget from the early 2000s.

Only a handful of Swedish producers can be considered to be commercial operations, rather than hobby wine makers.

In 2006, the Swedish Board of Agriculture counted four Swedish companies that commercialized wine produced from their own vineyards.

The total production was 5,617 litres (1,236 imperial gallons; 1,484 US gallons), of which 3,632 litres (799 imperial gallons; 959 US gallons) were red and 1,985 litres (437 imperial gallons; 524 US gallons) white, and this amount was produced from around 10 hectares (25 acres) of vineyards.

The Association of Swedish winegrowers estimates 30-40 vinegrowing establishments in Scania, but this number includes hobby growers with a fraction of a hectare of vineyards.

 

 

And here’s the thing, the point I am trying to make….

 

Sometimes things, sometimes people, thrive where no one thinks they will.

Sometimes places, sometimes people, have a past never imagined by others.

 

There is absolutely no reason to imagine that this quiet obscure section of the Alsace Wine Route could produce anything or anyone worthy of attention.

And yet the wine is very fine and the region has fostered both talent and royalty.

 

 

There is absolutely no proof in my possession that John and Katarina ever inspired Swedish wine production through their Alsatian experiences, but nonetheless I am seduced by the possibility.

 

There was no reason why the Maginot Line should not have defended France for centuries to come.

Unless invading Germans simply go around this line of walled fortifications.

 

(Trump could learn from the Maginot Line that a border wall is useless if desperate folks use desperate tactics like simply flying over the thing.)

 

There is no just cause why Alsace should be considered either French or German despite centuries of struggle and bloodshed, for even the smallest of walks through the Alsatian countryside reveals that these people are neither French nor German but are instead indefatiguably, eternally, proudly and uniquely Alsatian.

Pano.cernay.JPG

 

Is life in this tiny corner of France simple?

It is no less fascinating, no less complicated, than anywhere else humanity has chosen to settle.

 

Flag of France

 

Are Alsatians proud French patriots?

In the sense of defending their homes against the destructiveness of invasion, Alsatians are patriotic, but this patriotism is reserved for Alsace alone.

 

Flag of Alsace

 

For here the visitor hears both French and German spoken, and sees le francais and Deutsch written everywhere.

Alsace once upon a time was conquered by the French, was then conquered by the Germans, then liberated once more by the French.

But it is a long way, both geographically and philosophically, from Berlin and Paris.

 

 

Could one suggest that Alsatians are sanctimonious?

Perhaps.

But only because they quietly know their own value and sense their own superiority.

 

 

Today is Saturday and all of this conversing about wine has given me a craving for a fine glass of pinot.

I wonder whether the wine shop between Starbucks and the train station in St. Gallen will be still open after my shift ends.

I wonder whether I will buy a bottle of the Alsatian or the Swedish.

 

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Peter Berlin, Xenophobe’s Guide to the Swedes / Marie-Christine Périllon, Alsace: A Tourist Guide to the Entire Region / Jacky Bind & Jean Claude Colin, Alsace: The Wine Route / Michèle-Caroline Heck, The Golden Book of Alsace / Antje & Gunther Schwab, Elsass / Rough Guide France / Lonely Planet France

Canada Slim and the Privileged Place

Landschlacht, Switzerland, 26 January 2018

This morning I feel somewhat like Punxsawtawney Phil, the groundhog of the film Groundhog Day, chattering away furiously, while Bill Murray holds me firmly as he drives a car over a cliff sardonically telling me:

Groundhog Day (movie poster).jpg

Don´t drive angry.

Perhaps this might be extended to encompass writing as well.

Don´t write angry.

But recent events in world politics and memories of walking through one of the richest areas in Switzerland are making it difficult to write and keep my composure at the same time.

 

I mean I shouldn´t have been shocked by what Trump said.

Official Portrait of President Donald Trump.jpg

The man will literally say or do anything.

New York Times columnist Nicholas Kristof, during the 2006 presidential campaign, carefully reviewed Trump´s race-related history, and found – including the 1,021 pages of legal documents from racial discrimination suits against him – a consistent, 40-year pattern of insults and discrimination.

It seems there is no one to save us from his racism.

But he sunk to a new xenophobic, racist low on 12 January, when on the eve of the 8th anniversary of the 2010 earthquake that devastated Haiti, “President” Trump, in the Oval Office, wondered aloud why America should allow immigration from “shithole countries” like Haiti, El Salvador and African nations.

Flag of Haiti

Above: Flag of Haiti

Sadly, the “President” is not alone in thinking so poorly about the poor.

An America that created a man like Dr. Martin Luther King Jr remains burdened by bigotry, racism and discrimination by a minority who dominate the majority.

Martin Luther King, Jr..jpg

Above: Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. (1929 – 1968)

Where is the dream of a world where people are judged by who they are and not by how they look or where they come from?

Did the dream die with Dr. King?

Has Trump shown the true colours of too many people who having lived privileged lives have a jaundiced opinion of those who haven´t?

This week, Switzerland will host this colossal jackass at the World Economic Forum in Davos.

World Economic Forum logo.svg

For the first time in my life I have considered joining in a protest.

I probably won´t, because Trump´s presence in Davos coincides with my work schedule in St. Gallen, but the temptation nonetheless exists.

Being an event happening in Switzerland I am fairly certain that there will be Swiss people in attendance at this event – other than the ones providing services to the high and mighty – who they themselves are rich and powerful.

And it would not surprise me to find that some of these rich and powerful Swiss attendees come from Schindellegi, Canton Schwyz, which I visited, as part of my Zwingli Project, on 23 November 2017.

Ulrich-Zwingli-1.jpg

Above: Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

 

Einsiedeln to Richterswil, Switzerland, 23 November 2017

The day started as planned: early out the door, train to St. Gallen, another to Ziegelbrücke and a final to Glarus.

On the train to Ziegelbrücke I met Vadym of the Ukraine, a recently acquired friend who I knew as a regular Starbucks St. Gallen customer, on his way to work at his new job in Schindellegi.

Above: Canada Slim and Vadym, Restaurant Adler, Schindellegi

 

He is a pastry chef at the Restaurant Adler in Schindellegi.

We spoke of mutual acquaintances in St. Gallen and Poland, and by the time he left the train at Uznach I had told him of my intentions to follow the suggested walks found in Marcel and Yvonne Steiner´s Zwingli Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis – Ein Wander- und Lesebuch which would find me eventually walking through the town of Schindellegi from the monastery town of Einsiedeln to the Lake of Zürich.

He suggested that whenever I am in Schindellegi that I should visit him at the Adler.

Neither one of us expected me to take up the invitation that same day.

As mentioned in Canada Slim and the Monks of the Dark Forest of this blog, the walks suggested from Glarus to Einsiedeln could not be accomplished this day because of both a lack of transportation from Glarus and the valid concern that snowfall might have obscured the intended footpaths through the mountains.

Above: Glarus

So two trains and two hours later after leaving Glarus disappointed, I found myself in Einsiedeln from where – after a quick visit to the Abbey – I began walking in earnest towards the Lake of Zürich.

Above: Einsiedeln Abbey

The 20 km walk (approximately) suggested by the Steiners has the walker climb 200 metres from the town of Einsiedeln to Katzenstrick Summit, and then, with the exception of a 50-metre ascent from Biberbrugg Station, the trail is one continuous descent towards the Zürichsee.

Katzenstrick.jpg

Above: Katzenstrick/Chatzenstrick Pass

At almost the halfway point the walker arrives at Biberbrugg, an eternal village whose only claim to fame seems to be that it is a midpoint with a bridge crossing the Biber River.

Biberbrugg.JPG

In 1877, a train station of the railway line Wädenswil – Einsiedeln was built.

Fourteen years later, the Südostbahn (SOB) established the line St. Gallen – Schwyz and Biberbrugg became a transport hub yet never more than a hamlet.

Today, Biberbrugg is also a point on the famous Voralpen Express between St. Gallen and Luzern and of the motorway between St. Gallen and Schwyz.

The village´s railway station is also a stop of the Zürich S-Bahn on line S13 to Wädenswil and S40 to Rapperswil.

The sole reason to stop in Biberbrugg is to have a meal at the Restaurant Post on the hill above the Station.

Lunch consumed, I walked another three kilometres to Schindellegi, the Mecca of Switzerland´s super rich.

The municipality of Feusisberg, of which Schindellegi is a part of, has a population of nearly 5,300.

Most are well-educated good Roman Catholics who live in Paradise.

Schindellegi - St. Anna Kirche 2010-10-21 14-37-32.JPG

Above: St. Anna Church, Schindellegi

Paradise that is when one speaks of taxes as this municipality has the lowest taxes in the entirety of the nation.

Here the anonymous super rich have addresses in this municipality, including Sergio Marchionne (CEO of Fiat), Jörg Wolle (CEO of DKSH – Diethelm Keller Siber Hegner – deeply rooted in communities all across Asia Pacific – 780 locations in 36 countries), Andreas Rihs (CEO of Sonova, which specializes in hearing care solutions, like hearing aids, ear implants and wireless communication), Boris Collardi (CEO of the Bank Julius Bär – a most private bank) and Katharina Liebherr (co-owner of the Southampton Football Club).

Their wealth has an amazing amount of zeros, which has financed athletes like tennis star Martina Hingis and skijumper Simon Amman.

The ability to live in this municipality and become almost invisible verges on the magical that local magician/illusionist Peter Marvey would appreciate.

Above: Peter Marvey, the Magician without Limits

(Check out his Magic House when you are here.)

But this quiet money was revealed, at least to the rest of Switzerland, when Austrian resident in Schindellegi Hans Thomas Gross, selfmade millionaire and the 276th richest man in the world (estimated value CHF 175,000,000) began dating the “famous for being famous” American celebrity Paris Hilton.

Bildergebnis für hans thomas gross

Above: Hans Thomas Gross

(See Remembering Marilyn / Plastered by Paris of this blog.)

Gross, who made his fortune by marketing a drink distribution system for aircraft, owner/part-owner in the companies HTG Ventures, SkyTender, Preciflex, Tetral and Tetrapak and a 56-metre yacht dubbed Galaxy, dated Paris Hilton for about a year.

(For a discussion of Swiss packaging, please see Wolves in sheep packaging of this blog.)

Paris was said to be a big fan of grocery shopping in the Coop store in nearby Richterswil.

Bildergebnis für richterswil coop bilder

Paris is, for all the criticism that is hurled at her for being famous despite lacking talent, first and foremost a businesswoman.

Smiling blonde woman in dark clothing

Above: Paris Hilton

So even though she is better known for being a socialite, a TV and media personality, model (Trump Model Management), actress, singer and DJ, this great-granddaughter of Conrad Hilton, the founder of Hilton Hotels, is as clever a businessperson as Hans Gross.

Perhaps cleverer.

Her fragrances have earned $1.5 billion.

There are currently three Paris Hilton apartment complexes and 44 Paris Hilton stores worldwide.

Paris earns over $10 million a year from product sales.

As a celebrity, she is paid about $300,000 for appearances in clubs and events.

(Which makes it hard to picture her buying frozen vegetables at the local grocery store.)

(And it is the former presence of Paris in Schindellegi and the upcoming presence in Davos of her former employer and father of her friend Ivana, Donald Trump, that leads me to consider the lifestyles of the rich and famous.)

Don´t forget that Schindellegi is small and had no one told you that it was a taxation mecca for the super rich, it would be an easy place to ignore, for outside of the Magic House (for large groups only) only the town´s Church of St. Anna is worth a glance.

Schindellegi has the lowest taxes in Switzerland and in Switzerland anonymity is the watchword.

Above: Schindellegi

But a hint that the super rich call Schindellegi home is the Restaurant Adler.

At first glance, the Adler seems no different than any other Swiss restaurant in any other Swiss town, but the attention to detail and the need to have a qualified pastry chef beyond the normal kitchen staff found in a typical gastronomic village establishment suggests that the Adler is no stranger to the wealthy restauranteur.

Vadym (Remember Vadym?) creates such tasty delights that the tongue reminds the body why it is great to be alive.

I surprised Vadym by my visit, but I assured him it was not my intention to disturb him at work for more than a few minutes.

Despite my protestations, he insisted I have a Coke and a piece of his palate-pleasing pastry before proceeding on my path.

The Sri Lankan owner-operator of the Adler could probably have rattled off a list of the Who´s Who that have visited the Restaurant, but I sensed it was best not to linger too long.

Being just past normal lunch hours the staff were eating their own midday meal and I felt that they deserved to eat undisturbed by outside visitors.

My entire stay was probably no more than a half-hour at the most.

Schindellegi midday midweek was quiet.

Few cars on the streets, few pedestrians on the sidewalk.

I followed yellow diamond signposts that lead hikers through streets, fields and forests, valleys and mountains, across Switzerland.

My path from Schindellegi to the Lake of Zürich leads me from the railway to apartment blocks and pastures descending to Richterswil where one of the first tax revolts, one of a series of peasant revolts across Switzerland, occurred.

Richterswiler Weibel Rudolf Goldschmid was executed in Zürich following the failure of the revolt.

During the 1st War of Villmergen (5 January to 7 March 1656) when Protestant Zürich and Bern fought Catholic central Switzerland, Richterswil was invaded by an army from Schwyz.

During the 2nd War of Villmergen (also known as the Toggenburg War or the Swiss Civil War of 1712)(12 April to 11 August 1712) when Catholic cantons (including St. Gallen) fought against Protestant Bern and Zürich and Toggenburg, Richterswil was again invaded by Catholic forces.

But unlike 1656, the newly built fortifications above the town meant the siege of Richterswil was unsuccessful.

Under the French-established Helvetic Republic (1793 – 1803), Richterswil was made part of the district of Horgen and thus had a higher tax rate than surrounding villages, and as part of this higher tax it was forced to house French troops during the War of the Second Coalition (1799).

Following an unsuccessful uprising in 1804´s Bockenkrieg against Zürich, Richterswil was severely punished.

Things have calmed down since then.

Richterswil enjoys its position on the Lake of Zürich and is accessible by the A3 motorway, the Lake Zürich Left Bank railway line, the Zürich S-Bahn Services S2 and S8 and the Wädenswil-Einsiedeln line.

Above: Richterswil

The Zimmerberg busline connects the Zimmerberg Region and parts of the Sihl valley to Richterswil.

American painter John Caspar Wild (1804 – 1846) was born in Richterswil.

Above: Wild´s final resting place, Davenport, Iowa

In this town I see clear traces of someone´s love for Canada: a carved totem pole and maple leaf flags adorn the backyard of a Richterswil household.

I see the Coop store that Paris Hilton shopped at as I make my way to the Station, feet aching but smile upon my face.

I don´t have CHF 175 million in my bank account.

Nor do I have a 56-metre yacht to impress American hotel heiresses.

What I do have are walking boots and a willingness to use them.

What I do have is curiosity and enthusiasm.

As I suspected, Switzerland won´t always have Paris Hilton, but I have had the tiniest glimpse of wealth, have seen the exclusive stores of Dusseldorf, Cortina and St. Moritz, have witnessed gamblers unafraid to risk fortunes on gambling tables in Baden Baden and all I see is a golden shell empty of spirit.

What I don´t have I don´t miss, so I don´t envy those who do have what I don´t.

Over 80% of the superwealthy in the world inherited their fortune, despite claims to the contrary of hard work and sacrifice.

The poor have never lacked motivation, only opportunity.

What Paris never understood, what Donald doesn´t get, is that wealth may make the acquisition of material goods easier but it will never earn the true satisfaction of simply enjoying the world in all its quiet splendour.

Did Hans take Paris hiking?

Did he pick wildflowers for her from the fields outside Schindellegi?

Had a more sophisticated place to shop existed for Paris in Schindellegi or Richterwil, would she have shopped there?

Or did she make secret excursions to Zürich for shopping to maintain her lavish lifestyle?

I don´t hate the rich nor do I love them.

Their arrogance is accidental, their ignorance of lives other than their own is sublime.

I will return to Schindellegi for more of Vadym´s pastry.

I might walk into Richterwil´s Coop and wonder what Paris might have bought.

I will, on occasion, buy a lottery ticket in the hopes that a win might ease our financial insecurities.

How Hans made his fortune may have been legit….

Paris may actually work to maintain hers….

I wish them well.

Our worlds will never meet.

I am OK with that.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Marcel and Yvonne Steiner, Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis / http://www.swissinfo.com

 

 

Canada Slim and the Monks of the Dark Forest

Landschlacht, Switzerland, 8 January 2018

The Common Era year 2017 ended a week ago, which means the commemoration of the 500th anniversary of the Reformation also ended.

1 January 2018 was the 534th anniversary of the birth of Huldrych Zwingli, the Swiss German-speaking Reformer, whose life I have been retracing on foot through the advice of Marcel and Yvonne Steiner´s Zwingli Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis – Ein Wander- und Lesebuch since 10 October 2018.

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Above: Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

(Please see Canada Slim and the Road to Reformation, Canada Slim and the Wild Child of Toggenburg, Canada Slim and the Thundering Hollows, Canada Slim and the Basel Butterfly Effect, Canada Slim and the Vienna Waltz, and Canada Slim and the Battle for Switzerland´s Soul of this blog for an account of the life of Zwingli in Wildhaus, Weesen, Basel, Vienna and Glarus and an account of my own experiences with these places.)

So, by all accounts, you, gentle Reader, should now be spared any more mention of Zwingli and the Reformation in Switzerland, but both Zwingli´s life and my adventures following his life did not end in Glarus.

The abovementioned book of the Steiners divides the on foot exploration of Zwingli´s life into nine stages, four of which I have walked and written about.

What follows in today´s blog is a description of my attempts to follow Zwingli from Glarus to Zürich.

There will still remain the final stage of both the book and Zwingli´s life to be followed from Zürich to his final destination of Kappel am Albis, which will be written about in a future blogpost.

I ask for the reader´s patience in retracing Zwingli´s and my footsteps, for what it is discovered en route should make for interesting reading.

(I hope.)

 

Glarus, Switzerland, 23 November 2017 (American Thanksgiving)

A man must accept his limitations or those limitations placed upon him.

Flag of Switzerland

My limitations are time (I live and work in Switzerland and obligations of my domestic life and my professional life as barista and teacher must be taken into account.), money (As much as my wife is supportive of my little pet projects she doesn´t like to see money spent too “frivolously” on overnight accommodation if a return home the same day of a hike can be arranged.) and season (Much of Switzerland´s infrastructure closed down once winter has begun and a decrease of daylight were factors that had to be considered.).

As previously mentioned in former blogposts, the Steiners don´t claim that the walking routes they recommend were actually walked by Zwingli himself, just that they lead to places where he once resided.

The Steiners recommended, in a two-stage, two-day walk, that the historic walker could walk from Glarus to Einsiedeln via the Klontalersee and the Saaspass.

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Above: Klon Valley Lake, Canton Glarus

I was keen to do so, but uncertainty as to whether these routes would be passable and visible or if they were blocked by snow, and the inability to return from the Klon Valley Lake by bus back to Glarus before darkness set in, made me reconsider the wisdom of walking to Einsiedeln in winter without the proper gear.

Arriving in Glarus and learning that buses between the Lake and Glarus were not running until April, I returned to the train station and instead decided to make the journey by train.

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Above: Glarus Railway Station

Einsiedeln, Switzerland, 23 November 2017

The small village of Einsiedeln in the hills of northern Schwyz Canton has been Switzerland´s most important site of pilgrimage for a thousand years and still draws a quarter of a million devout believers every year.

The village itself is unremarkable, but the mighty Benedictine monastery which dominates it is exceptional, and worth a detour whether you are drawn by faith or curiosity.

Einsiedeln means hermitage and is named for St. Meinrad the Hermit, a monk from the monastery of Reichenau, who withdrew to what was then wilderness known as the Dark Forest in 828 AD.

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Meinrad was born circa 800, somewhere between the German towns of Tübingen and Rottenburg.

His parents sent him to the world-famous monastic school at Reichenau, where he later entered the monastery.

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Above: Reichenau Coat of Arms

However, his true vocation was for the life of a hermit.

He withdrew into the solitude of the Dark Forest.

The spot where the Lady Chapel stands today is where Meinrad built his hermit´s cell and oratory in 835.

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He built a small chapel and living quarters and remained there 26 years until the day of his death.

And it was where he was murdered by two thieves on 21 January 861 after a life of self-denial and prayer.

They found nothing of value, because he had taken a vow of poverty and had always given away everything he received.

Two ravens that lived with Meinrad pursued the murderers and brought their crime to light.

The murderers were arrested and burnt at the stake for their crime

In commemoration of this the Abbey of Einsiedeln has since the 13th century borne two ravens on its coat of arms.

Meinrad´s body was retrieved by the monks from Reichenau and returned to their monastery, where he was reverently laid to rest.

(His body was sometime later returned to Einsiedeln where it is considered the Abbey´s most precious relic.

Meinrad´s head reposes in a silver case in the high altar of the Church.

Meinrad´s skull has got a fissure from the blow of a club.)

Following Meinrad´s death, his hermitage remained deserted for more than 40 years.

Eventually Benno, a priest from Strasbourg, settled there with a number of followers, cleared the forest and rebuilt the chapel.

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Above: Strasbourg Cathedral

Benno and his followers built cells in the neighbourhood, living as hermits in an informal brotherly union.

In September 934, a relation of Benno named Eberhard of Nellenburg came to the Meinradzelle with a larger following and considerable financial resources and founded a Benedictine community, becoming the monastery´s first abbott.

Emperor Otto I (912 – 973) was in the process of building up a powerful empire like his great predecessor Charlemagne.

To do this he needed the support of the Church against the over-mighty princes and nobles of his realm.

Otto made bishops and abbots into worldly leaders and conferred upon them far-reaching powers and extensive landholdings.

The young monastery “in the depths of the forest” was no exception.

In the year 934 Otto signed the Document for Immediacy, making the monastery directly answerable to himself.

Abbott Eberhard invited the Bishop of Konstanz to perform the consecration of a new church on the site on 14 September 948.

The Bishop was about to do so, when a voice was heard ringing through the church, insisting three times over that God Himself had already consecrated the church.

“Desist.

God Himself has consecrated this building.”

(This Miraculous Consecration was a real time saver)

The Pope declared this to be a miracle and issued a papal bull blessing the pilgrimage to Einsiedeln.

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Above: John XI, Pope (931 – 935)

From then on, the monastery enjoyed special privilege, with large royal grants and positions of honour for the abbots.

Duchess Regenlind of Swabia and the Ottonian emperors provided the monastery with generous endowments, as the young religious community typified the monastic ideal.

This is attested by the works produced in the Abbey´s scriptorium.

This secular protection became a permanent bone of contention.

When the arch enemies of the Swiss, the Habsburgs took over the protectorship of the monastery in 1283, the conflict came to a head.

On the night of Epiphany 1314, the Swiss attacked the monastery, plundered it and held the monks captive for weeks.

The Habsburgs now had an excuse for the punitive expedition they had long planned against the Swiss.

However, this ended in a defeat for the Habsburgs at Morgarten, and after the Battle of Sempach, the Swiss forced the Habsburgs to return the protectorship of the monastery to them.

In the 13th century admission to the novitiate in Einsiedeln became restricted to the nobility, so by the late Middle Ages the Abbey´s membership had fallen sharply.

By 1286 the Chapel of Our Lady, built over the remains of Meinrad´s cell, was already a focal point.

It was adorned after a destructive fire in 1468 with a statuette of Mary with the infant Christ, carved in wood some time before 1440.

It is this figure which became the focus of pilgrimage as the Black Madonna.

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Monza, Italy, 8 – 13 September 1515

Zwingli had marched as armed chaplain for the Glarner battalion six days from the Septimer Pass to Milan and Monza.

On Saturday 8 September, Zwingli preached a sermon from the Loggia of the Palazzo del Arengario to the assembled representatives of the fighting strength, Swiss Confederation troops and additional fighting partners.

In his sermon Zwingli warned them of defeat against the French due to disagreement within the Confederation.

Above: Basilica di San Giovanni, Melegnano (formerly Marignano)

On Sunday the Pope and the leaders of the Holy League held a Council of War here.

The attack on Marignano took place on the following Thursday 13 September due to pressure from Cardinal Schiner resulting in disastrous defeat.

Above: Battle of Marignano, 13 – 14 September 1515

Zwingli experienced, at close range, the power and political decisions of the Pope´s regency and the fatal dependence of the Confederation on mercenary warfare.

He became increasingly more doubtful of the mercenary situation.

The decisive defeat of the Swiss in the Battle of Marignano caused a shift in mood at Glarus in favour of the French rather than the Pope.

Zwingli, the papal partisan, found himself in rather a difficult position and decided to retreat to Einsiedeln.

By this time, Zwingli had become convinced that mercenary service was immoral and that Swiss unity was indispensable for any future achievements.

Some of his earliest writing, such as The Ox (1510) and The Labyrinth (1516) attacked the mercenary system using allegory and satire.

His countrymen were presented as virtuous people caught within a French, imperial and papal triangle.

Zwingli stayed in Einsiedeln for two years during which he withdrew completely from politics in favour of ecclesiastical activities and personal studies and contemplation.

Later Zwingli would write:

“I started to preach the Christian Gospel in 1516.”

His Bible studies and practical experience during his decade in Glarus were decisive contributing factors.

On the eve of the Reformation, there were only two monks left in the monastery, one who occupied the office of abbott and the other of administrator.

All pastoral duties were carried out by chaplains, amongst them Huldrych Zwingli.

As people´s priest in Einsiedeln, Zwingli took the time to consider the whole.

His humanistic competence, contacts and studies for a reliable Interpretation of the Bible absorbed him.

He came to the conclusion in Einsiedeln that essential revision was necessary within the Church and the Confederation.

The guiding principle and compass for that revision had to be the message exclusively from the Bible.

“You are God´s tools.

He requires your service, not your inactivity.”

His time in Glarus and Einsiedeln was characterised by inner growth and development.

Zwingli perfected his Greek and took up the study of Hebrew.

His personal library contained over three hundred volumes from which he was able to draw upon classical and scholastic works.

He exchanged correspondence with a circle of Swiss humanists and began to study the works of Erasmus.

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Above: Desiderus Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466 – 1536)

Zwingli took the opportunity to meet Erasmus when the Dutchman was in Basel between August 1514 and May 1516.

Zwingli´s turn to relative pacifism and his focus on preaching can be traced to the influence of Erasmus.

 

Einsiedeln, Switzerland, 23 November 2017

At the beginning of the 16th century the monastery was headed towards total disintegration.

The Schwyzians, the patrons of the monastery, stepped in and turned to St. Gallen for a new abbott.

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Above: Coat of Arms of Canton Schwyz

He saved the monastery by opening up the novitiate to commoners.

The monastery complex was rebuilt from 1704 to 1726 in the most lavish of late-Baroque styles, the handiwork of monk Kaspar Moosbrugger.

The baroque Abbey was still new when the French occupied Switzerland after the Revolution.

On 3 May 1798, 6000 soldiers under General Schauenburg invaded the area, confiscated the Abbey and expelled the Abbot and monks.

On their flight to St. Gerold in Austria, they were able to take only their most valuable possessions.

Above: Benedictine monastery, Sankt Gerold, Austria

Schauenburg allowed his soldiers to plunder the Abbey and in the two weeks that followed they removed everything they could carry away.

The officers made one another presents to the magnificent horses from the Abbey stables, the library was completely sacked and the Church desecrated.

The miraculous statue of the Black Madonna was dispatched to Paris where it proved to be an imitation.

The monks had replaced the original before the arrival of the French and smuggled it to Austria.

To put a stop to pilgrimages for all time, the French then destroyed the Lady Chapel.

Three years later, after Napoleon had seized power in France, the Abbott and monks were able to return  – to a picture of devastation.

In the 19th and 20th centuries the monastery´s sphere of activities entered a period of marked growth.

In 1854 it founded the Archabbey of St. Meinrad in Indiana, and in 1925 worked to establish an agricultural school in Pfäffikon on the Lake of Zürich.

Above: St. Meinrad Archabbey Church, Indiana

In 1948 the Abbey founded the Priory of Los Toldos in Argentina.

Above: Monasterio Benedictino Santa Maria, Los Toldos, Argentina

The former small abbey school was expanded into a grammar/high school which is frequented by 300 boys and girls.

In 2008 the convent numbered 80 monks.

Einsiedeln´s train station and post office are in the town centre opposite Dorfplatz.

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Above: Einsiedeln Train Station

I headed through this square and turned left onto Hauptstrasse, following other obvious tourists flowing towards this edifice at the end of the street overlooking Klosterplatz – a ten-minute walk.

As you emerge from the cluster of the village centre, the vast Klosterplatz opens out in front.

The rather plain sandstone front of the Church, with its twin towers rising from an immense 140 metre long facade, is framed by unusual semicircular sunken arcades.

The ornate Well of Our Lady in the square taps the waters of Meginrat´s spring – pilgrims traditionally drink from each of the fourteen spouts in turn on their approach to the Church.

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The interior is breathtaking.

The nave is decorated with detailed frescoes by Cosmas Damian Asam.

Every part of the lofty white interior is detailed in lavish gold.

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An intricate wrought-iron choir screen gives into the stunning pink Rococo choir with a ceiling bedecked with animated sculptures of angels.

However the focus of all the pilgrims´ attention is the black marble Chapel of Our Lady, positioned in a huge octagonal bay just inside the main portal.

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The Black Madonna, a little over one metre tall and usually dressed in a jewelled and tasselled golden dress donated by Canton Uri in 1734, stands illuminated within.

Every day, the monks of Einsiedeln sing the anthem “Salve Regina” (“Hail to thee, oh Queen, Mother of Mercy”) in the chapel of the Black Madonna.

The Salve has been sung since 1547.

In his book Poetry and Truth, Goethe described the Chapel:

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Above: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832)

“The little chapel in the church, the hermit´s cell inhabited by the saint, is encrusted with marble and as far as possible transformed into a decent chapel.

It was something new to me, something I had never seen before, this tiny compartment, surrounded and enclosed by pillars and domes.

It led me to think that a single spark of piety and morality had ignited an eternally burning flame to which crowds of pilgrims were to undertake their arduous journey in order to light their own candles at the holy flame.

Be that as it may, it indicates a deep longing on the part of humanity for the same light, the same warmth, such as the first hermit Meinrad drew from his deepest inner conviction.”

Pilgrims often ask:

“Why is the Madonna black?”

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There is one obvious explanation: the soot from candles, incense and oil lamps has darkened the original colour gradually through the ages.

The flight from the French did the Madonna no good either, and she suffered greatly from damp weather.

Before the Madonna returned from Austria, an artist restored the statue returning the face and hands of the Virgin and the skin of the Christ Child the colour of flesh.

Then the monks in exile set the image up for a few days for public viewing in front of the church in Bludenz.

Above: The Priory of St. Peter, Bludenz, Austria

The appearance of a black Madonna had become so popular and the disappointment so great that the artist repainted the skin black.

It would never change.

Einsiedeln remains a fully functioning monastic community of 80 priests and 20 brothers.

Mass is celebrated several times a day.

Of the many annual pilgrimage festivals, the most colourful is the Feast of the Miraculous Consecration on 14 September, which culminates in a candlelit procession around the square.

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Let me blunt.

My first gut reaction to Einsiedeln was, and mostly remains, here is yet another big fancy church.

I remember walking Jakobsweg (St. James Way) from Rapperswil to Einsiedeln.

(“Europe was created on St. James Way.”, Goethe once wrote.

He was not wrong, for the history of the St. James Way is deeply connected with the history of Europe and was therefore deemed a part of the world´s cultural heritage in 1987.

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St. James Way consists of a wide net of routes which spread across Europe like many loose threads that intertwine as they head toward Santiago de Compostela in Spain where the supposed remains of St. James were found by a hermit in a neighbouring field.)

I remember visiting Einsiedeln with my wife in the first summer we lived in Switzerland (2010) and feeling overwhelmed by the thousands of tourists that seemed to be visiting the Abbey that same day.

But I know that Einsiedeln Abbey and the town itself deserved a second look.

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Einsiedeln, Switzerland, 4 January 2018

(For more on this day, please see …and the ravens cried “Nevermore” of my other blog Building Everest.)

To the non-follower of Catholicism, the cult of Marianism (the veneration of Mary, the mother of Jesus, as being divine because God decided to choose her to bear His Son, thus making her the instrument through which we can get intercession from God) seems quite strange and somewhat smacking of idolatry.

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Yet this veneration of Mary encompasses prayer, acts of piety, visual arts, poetry and music.

Popes encourage it, but are always cautioning Catholics not to confuse respect for her duty with any actual divinity said duty may have given her.

Let there be no doubt.

Einsiedeln Abbey is most definitely a Marian pilgrimage site.

In 1996, the working group Shrines of Europe was founded with the purpose of uniting Europe´s principal Marian pilgrimage sites, which now are listed as Fatima, Portugal; Altötting, Germany; Loreto, Italy; Czestochowa, Poland; Lourdes, France; Einsiedeln, Switzerland; and Mariazell, Austria.

Shrines of Europe

“At all these holy places, pilgrims hope to gain a new sense of the message given to them by their belief.

The strain and occurences which they experience on their way there give them more insight.

Their experiences at the holy place itself provide many people with new strength and energy – for the story they hear of the shrine, the rituals which are held, and the praying people all create an atmosphere in which the soul can open and find peace.”

A wet and stormy day finds me back in Einsiedeln on this my first day off after two days working.

I revisit the Abbey Church and remain impressed by the frescoes and stucco works and the gorgeous Baroque architecture.

I wonder at the devotion of the half-dozen worshippers praying by the Lady Chapel´s Black Madonna.

I will miss hearing the Gregorian Vesper at 1630 and the Salve Regina singing that will follow, but console myself with the thought of buying an audiovisual record of them in the Cloister Shop.

I view the Great Hall, the audience chamber of the monastery and can well imagine a concert filling the place with magnificent music.

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I long to visit the Abbey Library with rare manuscripts and books Dating back to the foundation of the monastery in the 10th century, but am told that the Library can only be visited as part of a large guided German-language tour.

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I risk life and limb walking treacherous ice to visit the stables behind the monastery to find lady grooms unwelcoming and horses indifferent.

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The monastery´s stables are considered to be the oldest stud farm in Europe still in operation.

The baroque stables were built between 1764 and 1767.

Einsiedeln Abbey horses were highly admired all over Europe.

In Italy they were known as the Cavalli della Madonna (the Madonna´s cavalry).

Yet there is more to Einsiedeln than just the Abbey, for it is a place not only of pilgrimage but as well culture.

See the Jerusalem Panorama that shows the Crucifixion from Good Friday until All Saints´ Day.

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See the Bethlehem Diorama illustrating the Christmas story complete with announcement-receiving shepherds, the Nativity Scene (minus a little drummer boy), the arrival of the Three Kings (no, not George Clooney, Mark Wahlberg and Ice Cube, but instead Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar) and the Holy Family´s escape to Egypt, from All Saints´ Day to Epiphany.

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Cross the Devil´s Bridge, a stone bridge covered by a wooden roof on St. James Way, constructed in 1699 to transport the stones needed to construct the monastery from the quarry on the Etzel River to Einsiedeln.

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In the middle of the bridge is a statue of St. John of Nepomuk.

The famous physician Paracelsus was born close to the bridge in 1493.

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Above: Theophrastus von Hohenheim aka Paracelsus (1493 – 1541)

I will never again make a gingerbread latté without thinking of the Goldapfel Gingerbread Bakery Museum with its old baking utensils and wooden forms, and the sale of Schaffböcke, or pilgrim biscuits, made from flour, water, honey and spices or the brown and white filled Kräpfli or speciality gingerbread.

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In the cellar of the Bethlehem Diorama is the Museum of Minerals, a collection of over 1,000 minerals from all over the world – from Alpine quartz to colourful crystals from China and South America.

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A special feature is the flourescent cabin where inconspicuous stones reveal an unexpected blaze of colours under ultaviolet light.

The Fram Museum is an historical museum about Einsiedeln, dedicated to the most important events during the town´s long history, including the Benzinger Publishing Company and the famous physician/alchemist Paracelsus.

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And there are activities to enjoy besides museums and buildings of holy intent:

You can swim off Roblosen Beach on Lake Sihl, or in the Hallenbad indoor swimming pool or at the Alpamare water park.

Cruising on Switzerland´s largest reservoir, Lake Sihl, is an unforgettable natural experience.

Catch a movie in the cinema, play minigolf, take a horse-drawn carriage ride, enjoy a ride aboard the Blatten Garden steam train, take a tandem hang glide, indulge yourself with a luxury tour on an original Rolls Royce Silver Shadow, visit the largest and newest indoor beach volleyball complex in Switzerland or play on one of three outdoor volleyball courts.

There are bike paths and hiking trails, rope parks and rope slides, an 18-hole golf course and windsurfing on the lake.

There is a cable car, Europe´s longest hanging footbridge, a summer toboggan run, a bouncy castle and playgrounds for the kids in nearby Sattel.

Not far away in Gossau, you can visit the Landscape and Animal Park – 34 hectares that is home to more than 100 different native and European species living in almost wild conditions.

Feed the deer, see the bears, howl with the wolves.

The military buff amongst the group will be delighted to find that the Canton of Schwyz has the Reduit Defence Line, a series of more than 400 interconnected fortifications, restored and refurbished with original Equipment including Fort Grynau, antitank defences, artillery casemates, a control centre and a fire control post.

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Between Einsiedeln and the Lake of Zürich in Schindellegi, you can experience the most modern ski jumps in Switzerland and the training ground of four-time Olympic gold medal winner Simon Ammann up close and personal.

A resurrected Meinrad the Hermit probably would no longer recognize what Einsiedeln has become, but I have the distinct impression he might not be displeased at what he would see.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Monika Hanna, Der Schweizer Jakobsweg: Vom Bodensee zum Vierwaldstättersee / Marcel and Yvonne Steiner, Zwingli Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis / Rough Guide to Switzerland /  Einsiedeln Tourismus / Kloster Einsiedeln

 

Canada Slim and the Last Walk of Robert Walser

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Christmas Day 2017

As my wife works – she is a doctor – I wonder what I am going to do with my days off.

Weather is rather grey for walking and I am not particularly motivated to accomplish much housecleaning despite the need to do so.

Of course, I could drag out from my DVD collection the classic holiday movies: Die Hard, Home Alone, National Lampoon´s Christmas Vacation, Skipping Christmas, The Sound of Music, It´s a Wonderful Life, Love….Actually, etc.

But I feel somewhat guilty to be watching DVDs on the couch while my wife slaves away in the hospital.

I´ll get over it.

It is Christmas Day, the day of Christ´s Mass, when Christians (they all crawl out of their comfortable hidey-holes at Christmas and Easter) celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ, though high church leaders do admit that there is no real way to ascertain with precision what day Christ was born or even what year Christ was born.

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The early Church determined that the Roman festival of Saturnalia seemed as good a time as any to fix a date of birth for the namesake of Christianity and decided to let the annually-changing lunar calendar determine when to commemorate Jesus being crucified and resurrected.

Religion cannot be an effective opiate of the people unless it is organized, with standards set and traditions established.

I will not and cannot diminish what Christianity means to the true practioner nor would I want to.

But having been raised in a land that calls itself Christian with the belief that Christmas and Easter should be honoured as simply more than excuses to have a school or work vacation, I wonder at the evolution of my beliefs since the days of my childhood and my youth.

When did I begin to question the validity of what I had once viewed as infallible and unquestionable?

Part of my problem with those who profess to be followers of a faith is that many of them do not actually practice what they preach, except within the confines of a temple of worship.

Some will even violate the basic tenets of their faith in defence of that faith.

(For example, the strict rule against murdering one´s fellow man is somehow justifiable if it is in defence of the faith that forbids killing.)

(The instruction to love one another seems always dismissable to the degree by which the other person disagrees with us.)

I am reminded of the Genesis song, Jesus He Knows Me:

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“‘Cause Jesus He knows me and He knows I’m right.
I’ve been talking to Jesus all my life.
Oh, yes, He knows me and He knows I’m right.
And He’s been telling me everything´s gonna be alright.

I believe in the family with my everloving wife beside me,
But she don’t know about my girlfriend or the man I met last night….”

(This also suggests that love must be restricted to the marriage bond and between opposite genders, as if love itself must be defined by the religious rule makers.)

God may be divine, but religion is a human invention.

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Above: The Creation of Adam, Michelangelo

So if a person believes in the existence of God, even if the greatest proof of His existence is the inability to disprove His existence, and if a person believes that His divinity should be worshipped, then what is the best way to go about it?

It seems there is no right answer universally agreed upon.

My way of worshipping God, if one could say that is something I actually do, is to walk.

God cannot, and in my opinion should not, be confined within walls or behind altars.

If God exists, then He is within and without, part of all that surrounds us and composes us,

I ask no one to follow me and ask no one to do or believe as I do.

For me, there is something about being Outside, away from the corrupting influence of civilization and the rules and regulations, customs and conflicts that define it, that suggests to me a sense of the divine far more real and powerful than any mighty cathedral or grand temple can offer.

I believe two Swiss men, both sadly departed, may have felt as I do.

Huldrych Zwingli, for all his flaws, may have felt a touch of the divine simply having lived in remarkably beautiful areas of Switzerland like Wildhaus, Weesen and Glarus.

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Above: Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

I think it was his living in cities or enclosing himself within the manmade walls of monasteries or cathedrals that made him question the certainty of his faith and his allegiance to the Church.

I personally find it difficult to doubt the existence of God and the surety of faith when I am walking in the wilderness.

I find it bothersome to believe in God and the certainty of religion when I see what passes for civilization in human communities.

(More on Zwingli and his questioning of his beliefs in a future blogpost….)

Robert Walser was born in Berne in 1878.

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Above: Robert Walser (1878 – 1956)

Walser was born into a family with many children.

His brother Karl Walser became a well-known stage designer and painter.

Walser grew up in Biel, Switzerland, on the language border between the German- and French-speaking cantons of Switzerland, and grew up speaking both languages.

Old Town of Bienne

Above: The old town of Biel / Bienne

He attended primary school and high school, which he had to leave before the final exam when his family could no longer bear the cost.

From his early years on, he was an enthusiastic theatre-goer.

His favourite play was The Robbers by Friedrich Schiller.

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Above: Friedrich Schiller (1759 – 1805)

From 1892 to 1895, Walser served an apprenticeship at the Bernische Kantonalbank in Biel.

Afterwards he worked for a short time in Basel.

Walser’s mother, who was emotionally disturbed, died in 1894 after being under medical care for a long period.

In 1895, Walser went to Stuttgart where his brother Karl lived.

Clockwise from top left: Staatstheater, Cannstatter Volksfest in Bad Cannstatt, fountain at Schlossplatz, Fruchtkasten façade and the statue of Friedrich Schiller at Schillerplatz, New Palace, and Old Castle at Schillerplatz

Above: Pictures of Stuttgart (clockwise from top left: Staatstheater / Cannstätter Volksfest in Bad Cannstatt / Schloßplatz / Schillerplatz / New Palace / Old Castle )

He was an office worker at the Deutsche Verlagsanstalt and at the Cotta’sche Verlagsbuchhandlung.

He also tried, without success, to become an actor.

On foot, he returned to Switzerland where he registered in 1896 as a Zürich resident.

Top: View over Zürich and the lakeMiddle: Fraumünster Church on the river Limmat (left) and the Sunrise Tower (right)Bottom: Night view of Zürich from Uetliberg

Above: Pictures of Zürich: View of Zürich and Lake Zürich (Zürichsee)(top)/ Fraumünster Church (middle left) / Sunrise Tower (middle right) / Night view of Zürich (bottom)

In the following years, he often worked as an office clerk, but irregularly and in many different places.

As a result, he was one of the first Swiss writers to introduce into literature a description of the life of a salaried employee.

In 1898, the influential critic Joseph Victor Widmann published a series of poems by Walser in the Bernese newspaper Der Bund.

This came to the attention of Franz Blei, who introduced Walser to the art nouveau people around the magazine Die Insel.

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Above: Franz Blei (1871 – 1942)

Numerous short stories and poems by Walser appeared in Die Insel.

Until 1905, Walser lived mainly in Zürich, though he often changed lodgings and also lived for a time in Thun, Solothurn, Winterthur and Munich.

In 1903, he fulfilled his military service obligation and, beginning that summer, was the aide of an engineer and inventor in Wädenswil near Zürich.

This episode became the basis of his 1908 novel Der Gehülfe (The Assistant).

In 1904, his first book, Fritz Kochers Aufsätze, appeared in the Insel Verlag.

At the end of 1905 he attended a course in order to become a servant at the castle of Dambrau in Upper Silesia, Poland.

Above: Dambrau Castle

“I myself am one of those fellows who find it nice not to think.

Also, I hold the principle of service in immensely high esteem.”

The theme of serving would characterize his work in the following years, especially in the novel Jakob von Gunten (1909).

In 1905, he went to live in Berlin, where his brother Karl Walser, who was working as a theater painter, introduced him to other figures in literature, publishing and the theatre.

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Above: Skyline of modern Berlin

Occasionally, Walser worked as secretary for the artists’ corporation Berliner Secession.

In Berlin, Walser wrote the novels Geschwister Tanner, Der Gehülfe and Jakob von Gunten.

They were issued by the publishing house of Bruno Cassirer, where Christian Morgenstern worked as editor.

Above: Bruno Cassirer (1872 – 1941)

Apart from the novels, he wrote many short stories, sketching popular bars from the point of view of a poor “Flaneur” (a person who takes leisurely walks) in a very playful and subjective language.

There was a very positive echo to his writings.

Robert Musil and Kurt Tucholsky, among others, stated their admiration for Walser’s prose, and authors like Hermann Hesse and Franz Kafka counted him among their favorite writers.

Walser published numerous short stories in newspapers and magazines, many for instance in the Schaubühne.

They became his trademark.

The larger part of his work is composed of short stories – literary sketches that elude a ready categorization.

Selections of these short stories were published in the volumes Aufsätze (1913) and Geschichten (1914).

In 1913, Walser returned to Switzerland.

He lived for a short time with his sister Lisa in the mental home in Bellelay, where she worked as a teacher.

Above: Bellelay Abbey, Canton Bern

There, he got to know Lisa Mermet, a washerwoman with whom he developed a close friendship.

After a short stay with his father in Biel, he went to live in a mansard in the Biel hotel Blaues Kreuz.

In 1914, his father died.

In Biel, Walser wrote a number of shorter stories that appeared in newspapers and magazines in Germany and Switzerland and selections of which were published in Der Spaziergang (1917), Prosastücke (1917), Poetenleben (1918), Seeland (1919) and Die Rose (1925).

Walser, who had always been an enthusiastic wanderer, began to take extended walks, often by night.

In his stories from that period, texts written from the point of view of a wanderer walking through unfamiliar neighborhoods alternate with playful essays on writers and artists.

During World War One, Walser repeatedly had to go into military service.

At the end of 1916, his brother Ernst died after a time of mental illness in the Waldau mental home.

In 1919, Walser’s brother Hermann, geography professor in Bern, committed suicide.

Walser himself became isolated in that time when there was almost no communication with Germany because of the war.

Even though he worked hard, he could barely support himself as a freelance writer.

At the beginning of 1921, he moved to Bern in order to work at the public record office.

Above: Old town, Bern

He often changed lodgings and lived a very solitary life.

During his time in Bern, Walser’s style became more radical.

In a more and more condensed form, he wrote “micrograms”, called thus because of his minuscule pencil hand that is very difficult to decipher.

He wrote poems, prose, dramolets and novels, including The Robber (Der Räuber).

In these texts, his playful, subjective style moved toward a higher abstraction.

Many texts of that time work on multiple levels – they can be read as naive-playful Feuilleton (newspaper supplements) or as highly complex montages full of allusions.

Walser absorbed influences from serious literature as well as from formula fiction and retold, for example, the plot of a pulp novel in a way that the original (the title of which he never revealed) was unrecognizable.

Much of his work was written during these very productive years in Bern.

In the beginning of 1929, Walser, who had suffered from anxieties and hallucinations for quite a time, went to the Bernese mental home Waldau, after a mental breakdown, at his sister Fani’s urging.

Above: Main building, Klinik Waldau, Bern

In his medical records it says: “The patient confessed hearing voices.”

Therefore, this can hardly be called a voluntary commitment.

He was eventually diagnosed with catatonic schizophrenia.

While in the mental home, his state of mind quickly returned to normal, and he went on writing and publishing.

More and more, he used the way of writing he called the “pencil method”:

He wrote poems and prose in a diminutive Sütterlin hand, the letters of which measured about a millimeter of height by the end of that very productive phase.

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Above: A magnified sample of Sütterlin writing

Werner Morlang and Bernhard Echte were the first ones who attempted to decipher these writings.

In the 1990s, they published a six-volume edition, Aus dem Bleistiftgebiet (‘From the pencil zone’).

Only when Walser was, against his will, moved to the sanatorium of Herisau did he quit writing, later telling Carl Seelig:

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Above: Main building, Klinik Herisau

“I am not here to write, but to be mad.”

Another reason might have been that with the rise of the Nazis in Germany, his works could no longer be published in any case.

In 1936, his admirer Carl Seelig began to visit him.

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He later wrote a book, Wanderungen mit Robert Walser, about their talks.

Seelig tried to revive interest in Walser’s work by reissuing some of his writings.

After the death of Walser’s brother Karl in 1943 and of his sister Lisa in 1944, Seelig became Walser’s legal guardian.

Though free of outward signs of mental illness for a long time, Walser was crotchety and repeatedly refused to leave the sanatorium.

In 1955, Walser’s Der Spaziergang (The Walk) was translated into English by Christopher Middleton.

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It was the first English translation of his writing and the only one that would appear during his lifetime.

Upon learning of Middleton’s translation, Walser, who had fallen out of the public eye, responded by musing:

“Well, look at that.”

Robert Walser loved long lonely walks.

Children discovered his frozen body, dead of a heart attack, in a snow-covered field, on Christmas Day 1956.

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“Colors fill up your mind too much with all sorts of muddled stuff.

Colors are too sweet a muddle, nothing more.

I love things in one color, monotonous things.

Snow is such a monotonous song.

Why shouldn’t a color be able to make the same impression as singing?

White is like a murmuring, whispering, praying.

Fiery colors, like, for instance, autumn colors, are a shriek.

Green in midsummer is a many-voiced song with all the highest notes.”

The photographs of the dead walker in the snow are almost eerily reminiscent of a similar image of a dead man in the snow in Walser’s first novel, Geschwister Tanner.

Walser was better known in his lifetime than many other German-language writers, were known in their lifetimes.

“Each sentence has the sole purpose of rendering the previous one forgotten.” (Walter Benjamin)

W. G. Sebald has remarked that Walser’s writing “has the tendency to dissolve upon reading, so that only a few hours later one can barely remember the ephemeral figures, events and things of which it spoke…

Everything written in these incomparable books has—as their author might himself have said—a tendency to vanish into thin air.”

Walser has disappeared from the consciousness of even German-language readers in this most modern of times.

But self-negation, a stepping aside out of the way, was his trademark.

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Above: Robert Walser

Herisau, Switzerland, 16 June 2017

Today I followed the footsteps of Swiss author Robert Walser.

Walser wrote that “without walking I would have died” so Herisau commemorates him through the Robert Walser Path and a Walser exhibition in the Herisau Museum.

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Above: Entry to Herisau Museum (top), Walser Exhibit (bottom)

This Path is the first literary path in Switzerland.

Walser struggled with psychological problems and spent much time at the Herisau Psychiatric Centre which he described as “a prison between the earth and sky.”

Happily one of his best works, The Walk and other stories is available in English.

Only in German, Carl Seelig’s Wanderungen mit Robert Walser gives a very personal glimpse into this troubled yet powerful Swiss writer.

To climb hills and walk the streets that a man largely ignored by non-German readers, this is not so terrible a plan, is it?

Today I followed in the footsteps of a different literary figure: Robert Walser, the Mad Poet of Herisau.

Walser-Brunnen

Above: Robert Walser Fountain, Herisau

I followed what may have been his last walk, visiting Klinik Haus 1 of the Herisau Psychiatric Centre where Walser spent the last 23 years of his life, the spot where his body was discovered on 25 December 1956, the grave where he was buried, the fountain built in his honour and the Robert Walser exhibition inside the Herisau Museum.

Klinik Haus 1

Above: Klinik Haus I (foreground), Klinik Herisau

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The Path is much like Walser´s descriptions in “A Little Ramble”:

“I walked through the mountains today….

….the road was soft and in places very clean.

The walk on the wonderful road gave me more and more pleasure….

A village was especially beautiful with humble dwellings….

We don´t need to see anything out of the ordinary.

We already see so much.”

From “The Road”:

“….I do not know any more for sure what time it was, as the desire to take a walk came over me.

I put my hat on my head, left my writing room….and ran down the stairs to hurry out into the street….

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Above: Robert Walser

As far as I can remember as I write this down, I found myself, as I walked into the open, bright and cheerful street, in a romantically adventurous state of mind, which pleased me profoundly.

The world spread out before my eyes appeared as beautiful to me as if I saw it for the first time.

Everything I saw made upon me a delightful impression of friendliness, of goodliness and of youth.

I quickly forgot that up in my room I had only just a moment before been brooding gloomily over a blank sheet of paper.

All sorrow, all pain and all grave thoughts were as vanished, although I vividly sensed a certain seriousness, a tone, still before me and hehind me.

I was tense with eager expectation of whatever might encounter me or cross my way on my walk.

My steps were measured and calm, and, as far as I know, I presented, as I went my way, a fairly dignified appearance….

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As I went on my way, like a better sort of tramp, a vagabond and pickpocket, or idler and vagrant of a sort finer than some, past all sorts of gardens planted and stuffed full with placid, contented vegetables, past flowers and fragrance of flowers, üast fruit trees and past beanstalks and shrubs full of beans, past towering crops of rye, barley and wheat, past a woodyard containing much wood and wood shavings, past juicy grass and past a gently splashing little warerway, rivulet or stream, past all sorts of people, and past a clubhouse decoratively hung with banners flying for a celebration or for joy, and also past many other good-hearted and useful things, past a particularly beautiful and sweet little fairy apple tree, and past God knows what else in the way of feasible things….

….all sorts of more or less beautiful pleasant thoughts continued to preoccupy me, since, when I´m out walking, many notions, flashes of light and lightning flashes quite of their own accord intrude and Interrupt, to be carefully pondered upon….

Without looking back….I walked on and soon afterwards, proceeding thus in the warm yielding air….

I came into a pine forest, through which coiled a smiling, serpentine, and at the same time roguishly graceful path, which I followed with pleasure.

Path and forest floor were as a carpet, and here within the forest it was quiet as in a happy human soul, as in the interior of a temple, as in a palace and enchanted dream-wrapped fairytale castle, as in Sleeping Beauty´s Castle, where all sleep, and all are hushed for centuries of long years.

I penetrated deeper, and I speak perhars a little indulgently if I say that to myself I seemed like a prince….

So solemn was it in the forest that lovely and solemn imaginings, quite of their own accord, took possession of the sensitive walker there.

How glad I was at this sweet forest softness and repose!

From time to time, from outside, a slight sound or two penetrated the delicious seclusion and bewitching darkness, perhaps a bang, a whistle, or some other noise, whose distant note would only intensify the prevailing soundlessness, which I inhaled to my very heart´s content, and whose virtues I drank and quaffed with due ceremomy.

Here and there in all this tranquillity and quietude a bird let his blithe voice be heard out of his charmed and holy hiding place.

Thus I stood and listened, and suddenly there came upon me an inexpressible feeling for the world, and, together with it, a feeling of gratitude which broke powerfully out of my soul.

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The pines stood straight as pillars there, and not the least thing moved in the whole delicate forest, throughout which all kinds of inaudible noises seemed to echo and sound.

Music from out of the primeval world, from whence I cannot tell, stole on my ear.

Oh,thus, if it must be, shall I then willingly end and die.

A memory will then delight me even in the grave, and a gratitude enliven me even in death.

A thanksgiving for life and a joy at joy.

High up, a gentle rustling, whispering down from the treetops, could be heard.

“To love and to kiss here must be divinely beautiful.“, I told myself.

Simply to tread on the pleasant ground became a joy, and the stillness kindled prayers in the feeling soul.

“To be dead here, and to lie inconspicuous in the cool forest earth must be sweet.

Oh, that one could sense and enjoy death even in death!

Perhaps one can.

To have a small, quiet grave in the forest would be lovely.

Perhaps I should hear the singing of the birds and the forest rustling above me.

I would like that.”

Marvellous between trunks of oaks a pillar of sunbeams fell into the forest, which to me seemed like a delicious green grave.

Soon I stepped out into the radiant open again, and into life.

In the bright, hot midday sun I would stop for a moment to rest under a fir, beech, or oak tree, stretching out in the moss or grass…

But where am I?

Am I actually on a hike right now?

How is that possible?”

“Walk” was my answer.

I definitely must, to invigorate myself and to maintain contact with the living world, without perceiving which I could not write the half of one more single word, or produce the tiniest poem in verse or prose.

Without walking, I would be dead, and my profession, which I love passionately, would be destroyed.

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Also, without walking and gathering reports, I would not be able to render one single further report, or the tiniest of essays, let alone a real, long story.

Without walking, I would not be able to make any observations or any studies at all.

Such a clever and enlightened man as you are, you may and will understand this at once.

On a lovely and far-wandering walk a thousand usable and useful thoughts occur to me.

Shut in at home, I would miserably decay and dry up.

Walking is for me not only healthy and lovely, it is also of service and useful.

A walk advances me professionally and provides me at the same time also with amusement and joy.

It refreshes and comforts and delights me, is a pleasure for me, and simultaneously, it has the peculiarity that it allures meand spurs me on to further creation, since it offers me as material numerous small and large objectivities upon which I later work at home, diligently and industriously.

A walk is always filled with significant phenomena, which are valuable to see and to feel.

A pleasant walk often teems with imageries and living poems, with enchantments and natural beauties, be they ever so small….

Without walking and the contemplation of nature which is connected with it, without this equally delicious and admonishing search, I deem myself lost, and I am lost.”

“The present time, surrounding you, singing and making noise, cannot be put down in writing in any satisfactory way.”

“It is as though you could hear Thought itself softly whispering, softly stirring.

It’s like the scurrying of little white mice.”

As I look outside my writing room window I see no scurrying white mice, but the thought of Walser softly whispers in my mind.

I wish to walk again, for like Walser felt without it:

I am lost.

Sources: Wikipedia / Benjamin Lerner, “Robert Waler´s Disappearing Acts”, The New Yorker, 3 September 2013 / Carl Seelig, Wanderungen mit Robert Walser / Robert Walser, A Schoolboy´s Diary / Robert Walser, The Walk and other stories / Robert Walser Zentrum, Robert Walsers Bücher zu Lebzeiten / Peter Witschi, Robert Walser: Herisauer Jahre (1933 – 1956) / Herisau Tourismus, “Robert Walser Pfad”

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Canada Slim and the Battle for Switzerland´s Soul

Landschlacht, Switzerland, 18 December 2017

Battlefields can be deceptive when viewed long after the battles have been fought.

Take the example of Waterloo.

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Above: The Battle of Waterloo, Belgium, 18 June 1815

Once the tourist gets beyond the huge pyramid and the facilities set up to view and visit it he/she finds him/her self in quiet tranquil dairy country.

(For a glimpse of today´s Waterloo, please see That Which Survives: A Matter of Perspective of this blog.)

Go to Battle, near Hastings, and beyond the markers that indicate that major events took place here in 1066 resulting in the Norman Conquest of England, it is difficult to picture these tranquil fields the scene of anything beyond a hiker´s pleasant place for a stroll.

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Above: The Bayeux Tapestry, showing the Battle of Hastings, England, 14 October 1066

Yes, even today a few poppies grow between the crosses row by row in Flanders Field, the scene of some of the bloodiest fighting in World War One.

A page from a book. The first stanza of the poem is printed above an illustration of a white cross amidst a field of red poppies while two cannons fire in the background.

And while no birds sang back then, today ignorant avian creatures soar and swoop above farmers´ fields that have known the plow for centuries before and will probably know the plow for centuries to come.

It is difficult to understand the past through the eyes of the present.

It is difficult to understand the people of the past through our present perspectives.

As a resident in Switzerland these past seven years I find myself still waging an internal war within, between my preconceptions of the Swiss before I lived here and the reality and the history of who the Swiss actually are and how they got that way.

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I once viewed the Swiss as nothing more than banking gnomes with the passion of dry toast, similar to the goblins that run Gringot´s Bank in the Harry Potter series.

My view later expanded to see the Swiss through the eyes of Johanna Spyri´s children´s classic Heidi and I began to imagine the rural Swiss as hayseed farmers leading processions of bell-ringing bovine over hills reminiscient of Salzburg, Austria, where Julie Andrews reminds us that those hills are alive with the Sound of Music.

Above: Swiss CHF50 commemorative coin (2001)

To be fair, Switzerland does indeed have bankers and farmers that partially validate my preconceptions, but the Swiss are so much more than these.

If we consider that two symbols of Switzerland are the Swiss Army knife and the Swiss Guard that protects the Pope, it might help us to view the Swiss militarily as well.

Today we view Switzerland simply as a place where conflicting groups go to Geneva, have a little chocolate, discuss a bit of politics, shake hands and sign treaties.

We forget that once the Swiss were considered the world´s fiercest warriors and that warring nations eagerly bought their mercenaries from Switzerland, for even then: Swiss meant quality.

We forget that had it been in Swiss nature to be conquerors beyond their frontiers and had they acted when they held military superiority, today´s political map might look quite different.

Little did I know as I followed the footsteps of religious reformer Huldrych Zwingli that I would encounter the very events that would determine Swiss independence from Hapsburg rule, compel the country to adapt a policy of neutrality and redefine the role of the Swiss mercenary.

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Above: Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

 

Glarus, Switzerland, 15 November 2017

The walk continues.

My little Zwingli Project begun a month previously has brought me here, back to the Walensee, a beautiful lake  – 24.1 square kilometres of mysterious water that never fails to capture one´s breath.

Walensee vom Kerenzerberg gegen Osten

Above: Walensee and Kerenzerburg Mountain

I had already  walked from Zwingli´s birthplace in Wildhaus to Strichboden (13 km / 4 hours walk), to Arvenbüel (9 km / 3 hours walk), to Weesen (five km / 2 hours walk) and had learned and seen a lot.

(See Canada Slim and the Road to Reformation, ….and the Wild Child of Toggenburg, ….and the Thundering Hollows, ….and the Basel Butterfly Effect, ….and the Vienna Waltz for the events and background of the Zwingli Project in this blog.)

After a train to St. Gallen, another to Uznach and a third to Ziegelbrücke, followed by a bus to Weesen, I set off for Glarus, Zwingli´s first ecclesiastical post.

I walked past Weesen Harbour, the path clinging to the shoreline of the Walensee.

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Above: Harbour, Weesen, Walensee

Summer had clearly abandoned the lake: no boats afloat, no campfires burning, no kiosks surrounded by clamouring kids.

I saw only the occasional woman or retired gentleman walking their dogs.

The path left the lake, climbed to the highway leading to Ziegelbrücke, clung to a bridge crossing the Linth Canal that goes to where the Promised Land of Zürich beckons, descended back to the lake through a campground to a second canal – the Escher.

Der Linthkanal bei Reichenburg, Richtung Süden, im Hintergrund der Mürtschenstock.

I followed canal and towpath straight south, but less than a kilometre later the signage and my travelling companion guidebook failed me.

There were no signs and as beautiful as the ascent and the walk atop the mountains could have been, I lacked important information:

Were there cable cars, up the mountains, then, after hours of walking, back down the mountains, operating?

It was a workday and summer had long since passed.

If there were cable cars in operation, how passable were the mountains?

Were the paths blocked by snow?

Were trail markings still visible?

I decided to err on the side of caution and continued to follow the Escher Canal.

My guidebook ultimately leads the hiker to Glarus and my topographic map suggested the Canal continued straight south to Glarus, so – mountain views be damned – from the Canal I would not stray.

The territory I was walking through wasn´t so alien for me.

I had previously walked from where the Escher Canal (which manages the Linth River) begins in Linthal to Glarus.

I had taken a cable car from Linthal to visit the cars-free town of Braunwald.

Skyline of Braunwald

Above: The village of Braunwald

I had ridden a Postbus from Linthal to Klausenpass and the Uri cantonal capital Altdorf.

Above: Klausen Pass

And to accomplish these adventures to and from Glarus and Linthal I had ridden the train a number of times from Ziegelbrücke.

(For a glimpse of this, please see Glarus: Every Person a Genius of this blog.)

 

According to the legend, the inhabitants of the Linth River valley were converted to Christianity by the Irish monk St. Fridolin, who, after founding Säckingen Abbey in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, decided to keep travelling and keep on converting those he met during his travels.

In Switzerland, Fridolin spent considerable time where he converted the landowner Urso.

Above: Fridolin (left), Urso (middle) and Landolf (right). Urso´s brother Landolf protests against his brother´s landholdings being passed to Fridolin,  so Fridolin resurrects Urso to confirm the land grant.

On his death Urso left his enormous landholdings to Fridolin, who founded numerous churches all dedicated to St. Hilarius (the origin of the name “Glarus”).

From the 9th century, the Glarus region was owned by Säckingen Abbey until the Habsburgs claimed all the Abbey’s rights by 1288.

St. Fridolin has never been forgotten.

Canton Glarus joined the Swiss Confederation in 1352.

On 9 July 1386, the Swiss Confederation attacked and conquered the Habsburg village of Weesen.

The following year Canton Glarus rose up against the Habsburgs and destroyed Windegg Castle.

In response, on the night of 21-22 February 1388, a Habsburg army attacked the village of Weesen and drove out the Confederation forces.

In the beginning of April, two Habsburg armies marched out to cut off Canton Glaurus from the rest of the Confederation.

The main Confederation army, with about 5,000 men, marched towards Näfels under the command of Count Donat of Toggenburg and the knight Peter von Thorberg.

A second column, with about 1,500 men under the command of Count Hans von Werdenberg-Sargans, marched over the Kerenzerberg Pass above the Walensee.

Habsburgian attempts to reconquer the valley were repelled in the Battle of Näfels in 1388, where a banner depicting St. Fridolin was used to rally the people of Glarus to victory.

The main army, under Toggenburg and Thorberg, attacked and captured the fortifications around Näfels.

As they retreated, the Austrian army spread out to plunder the villages and farms.

The Glarners then emerged from the snow and fog to take the Habsburg troops by surprise as they were preoccupied with looting.

The Battle of Näfels, the last major battle of the Old Swiss Confederation vs the Austrian Hapsburgs, fought on 9 April 1388, was decisive, despite the forces of Glarus being outnumbered 16 to 1.

2,500 Austrians died.

Only 54 men of Glaurus were killed.

The disorganized Austrians broke and fled towards Weesen, but the collapse of the bridge over the Linth River dropped much of their army into the water where they drowned.

In 1389, a seven years´ peace treaty was signed in Vienna.

Above: Monument to the Battle of Näfels (9 April 1388)

That same year, the first Näfelserfahrt (Näfels pilgrimage) to the site of the battle was held.

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This pilgrimage, which still occurs, happens on the first Thursday in April in memory of this battle.

From that time onwards Canton Glarus has used the image of St. Fridolin on its flags and in its coat of arms.

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I lingered in Näfels after an hour´s stroll along the Escher Canal.

I visited the Glarus Cantonal Museum in the Freulerpalast (Freuler Palace), the Church of St. Hilarius with the grave of General Niklaus Franz von Bachmann (1740 – 1831) who fought in the Napoleonic Wars, and the Battlefield Memorial.

Above: Freuler Palace, Näfels, Canton Glarus

The diverse history of the Canton is shown here with precious objects and paintings.

Here you can learn interesting facts on immigration and emigration, the practice of direct democracy and the Great Fire of Glarus.

(On the first Sunday in May, the Landesgemeinde brings out traditionally clad voters who publicly debate and decide politics in a manner rarely seen elsewhere.)

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Above: Landesgemeinde Glarus

You can see the development of textile printing that once was the most important industry in Glarnerland, the military and defence of Glarus and the significance of the region in alpine ski sport.

(The Museum is open from 1 April to 30 November, 1000-1200/1400-1730.  Please see http://www.freulerpalast.ch.)

The towpath along the Escher Canal continues to Netstal, a town that lies beneath Wiggis Mountain where the Löntsch River (from the Klöntal) meets the Linth.

Above: Netstal

Here one finds both a Catholic and a Reformed church, a beautiful half-timbered house (the Stählihaus), a plaque on the side of the Ambühlhaus in memory of Battle of Näfels warrior Mathias Ambühl, and a memorial stone regarding an unfortunate mine launcher accident that took place on 15 December 1941 resulting in the loss of four soldiers´ lives.

Netstal was home to cartographer Rudolf Leuzinger (1826 – 1896), the youngest Swiss traitor ever executed Fridolin Beeler (1921 – 1943) and writers Ludwig Hohl (1904 – 1980) and Marcel Schwander (1929 – 2010).

In the 118 years between the Battle of Näfels and Zwingli assuming his post as priest in Glarus in 1506, Switzerland was far from being a peaceful place, for when the Swiss weren´t fighting against others they were fighting amongst themselves.

There had been the Appenzell Wars (1403 – 1428), war with Milan (1403 – 1428), the Basel War (1409), the annexations of Aargau (1415) and Thurgau (1460), the Raron Affair (1418 – 1419), the Old Zürich War (1436 – 1450), the St. James War (1445 – 1449), the Freiburg War (1447 – 1448), the Waldshut War (1468), the Burgundian Wars (1474 – 1477), the St. Gallen War (1489 – 1490), the Italian Wars (1495 – 1522) and the Swabian War (1499).

(The Swabian War is called the Swiss War by the Germans and the Engadin War by the Austrians.)

(For the fascinating story of the Burgundian Wars and how it lead to the Swiss being recognized as the militarily superior force in Europe, please see The Underestimated: The Bold and the Reckless of this blog.)

Often these wars were of Cantons seeking independence from Habsburg control and the Habsburg Empire seeking to regain it.

Bloodshed and violence were commonplace.

As previously mentioned in former blog posts, Zwingli had completed his studies in Weesen, Bern, Basel and Vienna, was ordained in Konstanz and celebrated his first mass in his hometown of Wildhaus, before his first ecclesiastical post in Glarus where he would remain for a decade. (1506 – 1516)

Above: Birthplace of Huldrych Zwingli, Wildhaus

It was in Glarus, whose soldiers were used as mercenaries throughout Europe, that Zwingli became involved in politics.

The hiring of young men to fight in other nations´ wars, including battles for the Pope, was one of the major industries for the Swiss.

During Zwingli´s pastorate in Glarus, the Swiss Confederation was embroiled in various campaigns with its neighbours: the French, the Habsburgs and the Papal States.

Zwingli placed himself solidly on the side of the Roman See.

In return, Pope Julius II honoured Zwingli by providing him with an annual pension.

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Above: Giuliano della Rovere (1443 – 1513), “the Fearsome Warrior Pope” Pope Julius II (1503 – 1513)

Zwingli took the role of chaplain in several Swiss campaigns of the aforementioned Italian Wars.

The Italian Wars (also referred to as the Great Italian Wars or the Great Wars of Italy or the Renaissance Wars) were a series of conflicts from 1494 to 1559 that involved, at various times, most of the city-states of Italy, the Papal States, the Republic of Venice, most of the major states of Western Europe (France, Spain, the Holy Roman Empire, the Habsburg Empire, England, Swiss mercenaries and Scotland) as well as the Ottoman Empire.

The Italian Wars are: the First Italian War / King Charles VIII´s War (1494 – 1498), ….

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Above: Charles VIII of France (1470 – 1498), King (1483 – 1498)

(Charles VIII of France invaded Italy with 25,000 men, including 8,000 Swiss mercenaries.)

….the Second Italian War / King Louis XII´s War (1499 – 1504), ….

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Above: Louis XII of France (1462 – 1515), King (1499 – 1515)

(Louis XII of France invaded Italy with 27,000 men, including 5,000 Swiss mercenaries.  Julius II became Pope in 1503.)

….the Third Italian War / the War of the League of Cambrai (1508 – 1516), ….

(The Pope hired 6,000 Swiss mercenaries in the War against the French.)

….the Italian War of 1521 – 1526, the War of the League of Cognac (1526 – 1530), the Italian War of 1536 – 1538, the Italian War of 1542 – 1546, and the Habsburg-Valois War of 1551 – 1559.

The attentive reader may note that I do not mention Swiss mercenary involvement in the last five Italian conflicts.

That is because three battles – one in King Louis´ War and two in the War of the League of Cambrai – would make the Swiss question themselves as regards to their military role and their allegiance to the Catholic Church.

While Zwingli was in Vienna, he probably had heard of the Treason of Novara in 1500.

King Louis XII of France had conquered the Duchy of Milan in 1499 with the help of Swiss mercenaries.

In the spring of 1500, Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan, in his turn hired Swiss mercenaries in his bid to reconquer the Duchy.

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Above: Ludovico Sforza (1452 – 1508), Duke (1494 – 1499)

The two groups of Swiss mercenaries found themselves on both sides of a conflict.

The two mercenary armies confronted one another at Novara, a city west of Milan.

6,000 Swiss under the command of Sforza defended the city, while 10,000 Swiss under the command of Louis laid siege to it.

A meeting of delegates from the Swiss soldiers´ individual cantons called for negotiations between the two sides in an attempt to prevent the worst case scenario of the Swiss being forced to slaughter one another, “brothers against brothers and fathers against sons”.

Louis agreed to a conditional surrender which would grant free passage to the Swiss abandoning the city, under the condition that Sforza would be surrendered.

However, the Swiss on Sforza´s side, under an oath of loyalty to their employer, decided to dress Sforza as a Swiss and smuggle him out of town.

On 10 April 1500, the Swiss garrison was leaving Novara, passing a cordon formed by the Swiss on the French side.

French officers were posted to oversee their exit.

As the disguised Sforza passed the cordon, one Swiss mercenary Hans Turman of Uri made signs giving away Sforza´s identity.

Above: Sforza handed over to the French

The Duke was apprehended by the French and died eight years later as a prisoner in the castle of Loches.

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Above: Loches Castle

The French rewarded Turman for his treason with 200 gold crowns (corresponding to five years´ salary of a mercenary).

Turman escaped to France, but after three years he returned home to Uri.

He was immediately arrested for treason and executed by decapitation.

The Treason left a mark on the Swiss conscience.

Were they nothing more than men without honour, selling themselves to the highest bidder?

Was Swiss unity so cheaply sacrificed?

I am uncertain as to the exact demands required of an army chaplain in Zwingli´s day, but I suspect that in spite of his religious role he was expected to raise arms against the enemy when it was required, for it was in battle in Kappel am Albis in 1531 that Zwingli would meet his demise and Zwingli´s most prominent statue – at Zürich´s Wasserkirche –  shows him with sword firmly in hand.

Zwingli´s battle experiences would make him question the role of the Swiss as mercenaries which mainly enriched cantonal authorities.

On 6 June 1513, in the aforementioned city of Novara (Naverra) where the Swiss had gained the reputation of being treasonous, Zwingli was part of a force of some 12,000 troops that surprised the occupying French and soundly defeated them.

It was a shockingly bloody battle, with 5,000 casualities on the French side and 1,500 for the Swiss pikemen.

Illustration aus der Chronik des Johannes Stumpf, 1548

Above: The Battle of Novara, 6 June 1513

After the battle, the Swiss executed the hundreds of German Landsknecht mercenaries they had captured that had fought for the French.

Having routed the French army, the Swiss were unable to launch a close pursuit because of their lack of cavalry, but nonetheless several contingents of Swiss mercenaries followed the French withdrawl all the way to Dijon before the French paid them to leave France.

This one French defeat forced Louis XII to withdraw from Milan and Italy.

Did Zwingli witness these events and contemplate the morality of such actions?

The citizenry, Zwingli´s parishioners, remained loyal to the idea of fighting for the Pope until 13 September 1515….

16 km southeast of Milan is the town of Melegnano, then called Marignano.

This battle between the French and the Swiss would change everything.

The French army was composed of the best armored lancers and artillery in Europe and led by Francis I, newly crowned King of France and one day past his 21st birthday.

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Above: Francis I of France (1494 – 1547), King (1515 – 1547)

With Francis were German Landknechts, bitter mercenary rivals of the Swiss for fame and renown in war, and late arriving Venetian allies.

Prior to Marignano there were years of Swiss successes, during which French fortunes in northern Italy had suffered greatly.

The prologue to the battle was a remarkable Alpine passage, in which Francis hauled 72 large cannons over new-made roads over the Col d´Argentiere, a previously unknown route on the French-Italian border.

Above: The village of Larche, France, and the Col d´Argentiere

This was, at the time, considered one of the foremost military exploits of the age and the equal of Hannibal´s crossing of the Alps in 218 BC.

At Villafranca, the French surprised and captured the commander of the Papal forces in a daring raid deep behind enemy lines, seizing Commander Colonna and his staff, 600 horses and a great deal of booty.

The capture of Prospero Colonna, along with the startling appearance of the French army on the plains of Piedmont, stunned the Papal allies.

Above: Prospero Colonna (1452 – 1523)

The Pope and the Swiss both sought terms with Francis, while the Pope´s Spanish allies en route from Naples halted to await developments.

The main Swiss army retreated to Milan, while a large faction, tired of the War and eager to return home with the profits of years of successful campaigning, urged terms with the French.

Though the parties reached an agreement that gave Milan back to the French, the arrival of fresh and bellicose troops from the Swiss cantons annulled the agreement, as the newly arrived men had no desire to return home empty-handed and refused to abide by the treaty.

Discord swept through the Swiss forces until Matthäus Schiner, Cardinal of Sion and archenemy of Francis, inspired the Swiss with a fiery speech, reminding them of what a smaller Swiss army had achieved against as powerful a French army at the Battle of Novara.

Above: Matthäus Schiner (1465 – 1522)

Schiner pointed out the enormous profits of victory, appealed to national pride, and urged the Swiss to immediate battle.

The Swiss encountered Francis´ forces at the little burnt-out village of Marignano on a featureless plain.

A treaty signed, the French were not expecting battle.

Francis was in his tent, trying on a new suit of armor, when scouts reported the coming of the Swiss.

The French army quickly sprang into action.

The fighting, begun at sunset of 13 September, continued until smoke and the disappearance of moonlight halted the battle during the darkest hours of the night.

At dawn of 14 September the battle began again.

Above: The Battle of Marignano (13 – 14 September 1515)

The midmorning arrival of the French´s allies from Venice turned the tide against the Swiss.

Their attacks repulsed everywhere, their ranks in bloody shambles, the Swiss grudgingly gave ground and withdrew.

The battle was a decisive victory for Francis, for even though the Swiss were heavily outnumbered and outgunned, they had proved themselves during the preceding decades and had habitually emerged victorious from the most disadvantageous situations.

“I have vanquished those whom only Caesar vanquished” was printed on the medal Francis ordered struck to commemorate the victory.

Considering this battle his most cherished triumph, Francis praised Marignano as the “battle of giants” and stated that all previous battles in his lifetime had been “child´s sport”.

This battle ended once and for all Swiss aspirations for conquest.

There never was any Swiss military offensive against an external enemy again.

After lengthy negotiations, a peace treaty between the Swiss and the French was signed in Fribourg on 29 November 1516.

This treaty would be known as the Treaty of Perpetual Peace, a peace that remained unbroken until the French invaded Switzerland in 1798 during the French Revolutionary Wars.

Zwingli was present at the Battle of Marignano.

He would witness the slaughter of 6,000 of his countrymen in the service of the Pope.

Above: Dying Swiss, Retreat from Marignano, by Ferdinand Hodler (1898)

In Glarus, there had been political controversy on which side the young men seeking employment as mercenaries should take service, the side of France or the side of the Papal States.

They wanted to prevent that men of Glarus took service on both sides of the war as had been the case at Novara in 1500.

Zwingli had supported the Pope before the Battle of Marignano, and even after the Battle, he opposed the peace with France and continued to support the side of the Papal States.

Since public opinion in Glarus had shifted towards a clearly pro-French stance, Zwingli was forced to abandon his position in Glarus, taking employment elsewhere at Einsiedeln Abbey.

Above: Einsiedeln Abbey

Based on his experience in the War, Zwingli became an outspoken opponent of mercenary service, arguing with Erasmus of Rotterdam that war is sweet only to those who have not experienced it”.

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Above: Desiderius Erasmus Roterodamus (1466 – 1586)

He returned from Marignano determined to abolish this mercenary practice of “selling blood for gold”.

Zwingli blamed the warmongery on the part of Cardinal Schiner for the disaster at Marignano and began to preach against the high clergy, the first sign of his radicalization that would culminate in the Swiss Reformation.

 

I continued to follow the Canal to the Canton Glarus capital also named Glarus.

Above: The City of Glarus

Of interest to the visitor are the Stadtkirche (city church), the Kunsthaus (art museum), the Anna Göldi Museum and the Cantonal library.

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Above: Anna Göldi (1734 – 1782)

(Anna Göldi was the last person in Europe to be executed for witchcraft.)

(For the story of witchcraft in Switzerland, please see Five Schillings´ Worth of Wood of this blog.)

Though the Stadtkirche was once the church where Zwingli presided and is today a Reformed Church, there still seems to be no love lost for Zwingli.

Above: Stadtkirche, Glarus

I explored the church inside and out, but I could find no plaques or markers indicating that he had ever been here.

Glarus´ grudge towards Zwingli was neither forgiven nor forgotten.

Glarus was not shaped by Zwingli during his lifetime, but Glarus and Zwingli´s war experiences certainly shaped him.

I have always loved Glarus, this picturesque wee capital dwarfed by the looming Glarnsch Massif.

I have always loved Glarnerland, this tract of mountain territory with widely spaced settlements and very low-key tourism.

Isolation is attractive.

Sources: Wikipedia / Glarus Tourism / Josef Schwitter and Urs Heer, Glarnerland: A Short Portrait / Marcel and Yvonne Steiner, Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis