Driven

Eskişehir, Türkiye

Friday 19 April 2024

In the morning paper I come across two small events that together seem significant.

The black singer Paul Robeson was supposed to give a recital in Peoria.

At the last minute, the concert was cancelled on the pretext that Robeson is a Communist.

The authorities insist that they didn’t refuse to give him access to the hall because he is Black, but because he is a Communist.

Above: American actor / athlete / bass-baritone concert singer / writer / civil rights activist Paul Robeson (1898 – 1976)

Elsewhere, an amusing episode just reached its conclusion.

Several weeks ago, a bus driver with a bus full of passengers travelling along some avenue got the bright idea to bypass all the stations and the terminal and to head out onto the highway amid his passengers’ panicked protests.

He let them out in the end, then calmly continued on his way to Florida.

When stopped and questioned, he cheerfully declared:

“That route was too monotonous.

I have always wanted to see Florida.

One fine morning, I said to myself:

‘Why not go to Florida?’

So I went.”

The driver has become a popular hero.

Although he had been fired, he went back to work yesterday amid ovations.

He was interviewed as well as photographed a hundred times.

In all the papers he is seen laughing through the windshield of the new bus he has just been given.

Perhaps such a fantasy is conceivable only in New York.

Friends have told me that nothing similar could happen, for example, in Chicago.

But even if they are incapable of doing it themselves, all Americans adore these uninhabited actions in which they see ready proof of their love of freedom.

The driver is a “character”, an original who has openly demonstrated that individualism America is so proud of.

And certainly in France he would never have been reinstated in his job.

Above: Bus driver William Cimillo (1909 – 1975)

It is true that America is much more indulgent of sudden whims and impulses that do not seriously challenge its authority.

I knew a pious and capable mother whose children were envied by all their little friends because they were allowed to climb trees, fight with one another and stick their tongues at their old teachers.

When they grew up, all the daughters docilely married the husbands chosen for them and the sons entered careers approved by their parents.

The pleasure and pride they found in their independence had made them even more submissive prey in their parents’ hands.

The bus driver would certainly laugh in the face of anyone who might doubt the freedom of American citizens.

Above: William Cimillo

Paul Robeson, however, didn’t want to do anything eccentric.

He just wanted to sing.

(Simone de Beauvoir, diary entry of 19 April 1947)

Above: French philosopher / writer / activist Simone de Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)

William Cimillo was a New York City bus driver back in the 1940s.

He was a hard-working guy, never complained, and was even recognized for his exemplary work ethic.

Above: Empire State Building, New York City

But eventually, the daily grind was just a little too much for Cimillo, and in 1947, he left his route and drove south, heading straight for Florida in his bus.

He stopped in New Jersey for a bite to eat.

Above: State flag of New Jersey

He parked in front of the White House and took a look around DC.

He even picked up a hitchhiking sailor along the way.

He was arrested for the theft of the bus, but amid public acclaim for Cimillo the charges were dropped.

He resumed his job, unventfully driving New York City buses until his retirement sixteen years later.

Collect fares, hand out transfers, navigate traffic — like most jobs, driving a city bus is pretty routine.

That’s why William Cimillo, 37, a married father of two from the Bronx who had been driving a bus for 16 years, became fed up.


Day in and day out it was the same old grind.

He was a slave to a watch and a schedule,” reported the Brooklyn Eagle.

Boredom led to daydreaming.

Cimillo wondered what it would be like if he “disobeyed the rules and forgot to look at his watch and did not get to that street corner at the right time,” wrote the Eagle.

One morning in March 1947, something came over him as he pulled away from the garage to start his shift on the BX15 route along Gun Hill Road.


“‘All of a sudden I was telling myself, baby, this is it.

I left that town in a hurry.

Somehow, I didn’t care where I went.

I just turned the wheel to the left, and soon I was on Highway 1, bound for Florida.’”

He was a hard-working guy, never complained, and was even recognized for his exemplary work ethic.

But eventually, the daily grind was just a little too much for Cimillo, and in 1947, he left his route and drove south, heading straight for Florida in his bus.

William Cimillo had been picking up passengers in the Bronx for 17 years.

Cimillo was a family man who worked for the NYC Surface Transportation System, and every day was the same.

Up and down, every day,” he once told a TV interviewer, “the same people, the same stops, nickels, dimes, transfers, and — well, this morning, I thought I’d try something different.

Tired of the same old routine, fed up with New York traffic, and probably feeling pressure to pay off some gambling debts, Cimillo decided he’d had enough.

Instead of sticking with his daily routine, he headed his bus south, going nowhere in particular.

Above: William Cimillo

For two weeks no one heard from Cimillo, not his company nor his wife and two children.

Speculation that his bus was hijacked (by someone other than Cimillo) or he had an unreported accident was in the minds of his employers and family.

After two weeks, the SFC finally got word from Cimillo in the form of a Western Union telegram requesting $50.

The request came from Hollywood, Florida.

Above: Hollywood, Florida

The STC decided to send a pair of police officers instead of the $50 and a mechanic to Florida to apprehend Cimillo and bring him back to New York City.

Cimillo never notified his family.

Instead his oldest son Richard saw his father on-screen in a matinee newsreel in the movie theater.

Three days later, he was in Hollywood, Florida, where he stopped for a night-time swim.

Cimillo was totally free and strapped for cash.

Hoping to make a few bucks, he wandered into a nearby racetrack, but when that didn’t pan out, he telegrammed his boss in New York, asking for $50.

And that’s when the cops showed up.

William Cimillo was under arrest for stealing a bus.

Two New York detectives and a mechanic were sent to fetch the runaway driver and his bright red bus, but according to Cimillo, the mechanic couldn’t really drive the darn thing.

Worried they’d end up in a ditch, the officers decided Cimillo should drive them back to New York.

And when they arrived, William Cimillo discovered he’d become a legend.

People across the country sent him fan mail, newspapers portrayed him as a working-class hero, and his bus-driving buddies raised enough cash to cover his legal expenses.

Realizing they were the bad guys here, the Surface Transportation System decided not to prosecute.

In fact, they gave Cimillo his job back, and when he showed up for work, everybody in the Bronx wanted to ride his route.


On one occasion, over 300 high school girls mobbed his bus, demanding an autograph.

And Hollywood (California) almost turned his story into a movie, starring Elizabeth Taylor as a totally fictional beauty queen who joined Cimillo on his wacky roadtrip.

For some reason, the movie was never made.

Above: English actress Elizabeth Taylor (1932 – 2011)

For the rest of his life, Cimillo was something of a superstar, but he never pulled any more wild stunts.

Instead, he kept on driving that bus for 16 more years before finally passing away in 1975.

Those three crazy days in 1947 were more than enough adventure for William Cimillo.

William Cimillo is buried in the grand Old St. Raymond Cemetery, noted for its large, elegant entry gateway.

There, William shares a granite tombstone bearing the carved names of a host of his family members, all
nestled nearby in the family plot.

He had a son, Richard Cimillo, who became a firefighter and does not hesitate to tell of his Dad’s adventure.

No matter what a particular man does or how he spends his day, he has one thing in common with all other men:

He spends it in a degrading manner.

And he himself does not gain by it.

It is not his own livelihood that matters.

He would have to struggle far less, since luxuries do not mean anything to him anyway.

It is the fact that he does it for others that makes him so tremendously proud.

He will undoubtedly have a photograph of his wife and children on his desk and will miss no opportunity to hand it around.

It’s a big job gettin’ by with nine kids and a wife
Even I’ve been workin’ man, dang near all my life but I’ll keep workin’
As long as my two hands are fit to use
I’ll drink my beer in a tavern
And sing a little bit of these working man blues

But I keep my nose on the grindstone, I work hard every day
Get tired on the weekend, after I draw my pay
But I’ll go back workin’, come Monday morning I’m right back with the crew
I’ll drink a little beer that evening
Sing a little bit of these working man blues

Sometimes I think about leaving, do a little bummin’ around
Throw my bills out the window, catch me a train to another town
But I go back working, I gotta buy my kids a brand new pair of shoes
I’ll drink a little beer that evening
Cry a little bit of these working man blues, here comes workin’ man

Well, hey, hey, the working man, the working man like me
Never been on welfare, and that’s one place I will not be
Keep me working, you have long two hands are fit to use
My little beer in a tavern
Sing a little bit of these working man blues, this song for the workin’ man

No matter what a man’s job may be – bookkeeper, doctor, bus driver or managing director – every moment of his life will be spent as a cog in a huge and pitiless system – a system designed to exploit him to the utmost, to his dying day.

Above: Charlie Chaplin (1889 – 1977), Modern Times (1936)

It may be interesting to add up figures and make them tally – but surely not year in, year out?

How exciting it must be to drive a bus through a busy town!

But always the same route, at the same time, in the same town, day after day, year after year?

What a magnificent feeling of power to know that countless workers move at one’s command!

But how would you feel if one suddenly realized one was their prisoner and not their master?

G’day, my name’s Tony
On behalf of myself and the coachline
I’d like to thank you for choosing to drive with us today
I’m a local, I hope I can impart some local knowledge
If you’ve got any questions don’t hesitate, just sing out
For those who are interested, there’s the Old Bridge, swaying away
Replaced by the New Bridge in 1972
Funny thing, the Old Bridge used to be called the New Bridge
Yeah, bit of a funny thing
Up ahead there’s the bronze of Bluey
A local sheepdog, who became a member of Regional Council
It was a bloody great day for dogs, not just here
But everywhere in the North Island
Here’s the town’s oldest street
That’s the Museum of Meat
There’s the town’s largest industry
That’s the sock factory, hence the giant sock”

The town hall
Note the mosaic wall
Well, there are 5, 600 tiles on that wall
I know, I counted them all
The local school, the local swimming pool
Which was opened by the Governor General
Back in 1952
Where I was caught with a friend aged 11, sniffing tractor fuel
We thought we were pretty cool, breaking them changing shed rules

But do you see up there?
The banner hanging in the air?
The Presbyterian Fair
Well, I never go, there’s too many Presbyterians there
But if you’re interested, the fair’s in the third weekend of August every year
But don’t bother entering the raffle
It’s always won by some kid of the Mayor

Do you hear that sound?
The town clock, heard from anywhere in town
Until 1960, it was a little place in Norway
We bought it for a hundred pounds
Rumor has it they sold it cheap because the chimes were too loud
But every time I hear that sound it makes me so proud

Look to your left, what a beautiful sight
It’s Paula, Paula Thompson, nee Paula Wright
Look at her hair, it’s still gorgeous, even now
Flowing like the Womahonga River
Which incidently, is to your right
And it’s the largest, in the area
In terms of volume
Everybody, look at Paula, look at Paula Thompson
I always thought I’d marry Paula
But some things just don’t work out that way
Well, that’s the most important thing you’ll learn on the tour today
That, and the fact there’ll be a toilet break
At the information center near the manmade lake

“Yeah, I’ll just ask you one favor
If you do see Paula in town later on
That you don’t mention the details of the tour
I’d appreciate that
Same goes for my wife, Gloria
You’ll recognize her
She looks a hell of a lot like Paula, actually
She often gets mistaken for Paula
But, um, well, she’s not Paula, that’s for sure, no”

Paula Thompson, born in ’54
To a family of four
To the family next door
Take me back next door
Paula Thompson, nee Paula Wright
That’s her old house, number 39
Number 41 was mine
If this old coach could go back in time
I’d drive to 1979
Take me back
Take me back, take me back
(Take, take, take, take me back)
Take me back, take me back
(Take, take, take, take me back)
Take me back, take me back, take me back, take me back, take me back, take me back

Yeah, sorry about that
I always get a little bit emotional
On the corner of Rutherford and Brown Streets
But, um, that is truly the end of the tour
So mind your step, yeah, good on you

We have long ceased to play the games of childhood.

As children, we become bored quickly and changed from one game to another.

A man is like a child who is condemned to play the same game for the rest of his life.

The reason is obvious:

As soon as he is discovered to have a gift for one thing, he is made to specialize.

Then, because he can earn more money in that field than other, he is forced to do it forever.

If he was good at arithmetic in school, if he had a “head for figures“, he will be sentenced to a lifetime of figure work as bookkeeper, mathematician or computer operator, for there lies his maximum work potential.

Therefore, he will add up figures, press buttons and add up more figures, but he will never be able to say: “I’m bored. I want to do something else!

He will never be permitted to look for something else.

Driven, he may engage in a desperate struggle agaınst competitors, to improve his position and perhaps even become head clerk or managing director of a bank.

But isn’t the price he is paying for his improved salary rather too high?

A man who changes his way of life or rather his profession – for life and profession are synonymous to him – is considered unreliable.

If he does it more than once, he becomes a social outcast and remains alone.

I was a rebel from the day I left school
Grew my hair long and broke all the rules
I’d sit and listen to my records all day
With big ambitions of when I could play

My parents taught me what life was about
So I grew up the type they’d warn me about
They said my friends were just an unruly mob
And I should, get a haircut and get a real job

Get a haircut and get a real job
Clean your act up and don’t be a slob
Get it together like your big brother Bob
Why don’t you, get a haircut and get a real job?

I even tried that nine to five scene
I told myself that it was all a bad dream
I found a band and some good songs to play
Now I party all night, I sleep all day
I met this chick, she was my number one fan
She took me home to meet her mommy and dad
They took one look at me and said, “Oh, my God!
Get a haircut and get a real job!”

Get a haircut and get a real job
Clean your act up and don’t be a slob
Get it together like your big brother Bob
Why don’t you, get a haircut and get a real job?

I hit the big-time with my rock and roll band
The future’s brighter now than I’d ever plan
I’m ten times richer than my big brother Bob
But, he’s got a haircut, and he’s got a real job

Get a haircut and get a real job
Clean your act up and don’t be a slob
Get it together like your big brother Bob
Why don’t you, get a haircut and get a real job?

The fear of being rejected by society must be considerable.

Why else will a doctor (who as a child liked to observe tadpoles in jam jars) spend his life opening up nauseating growths, examining and pronouncing on human excretions?

Why else does he busy himself nıght and day with people of such repulsiveness that everyone else is driven away?

We praise the colo-rectal surgeon
Misunderstood and much maligned
Slaving away in the heart of darkness
Working where the sun don’t shine

Respect the colo-rectal surgeon
It’s a calling few would crave
Lift up your hands and join us
Let’s all do the finger wave

When it comes to spreading joy
There are many techniques
Some spread joy to the world
And others just spread cheeks
Some may think the cardiologist
Is their best friend
But the colo-rectal surgeon knows…
He’ll get you in the end!

Why become a colo-rectal surgeon?
It’s one of those mysterious things.
Is it because in that profession
There are always openings?

When I first met a colo-rectal surgeon
He did not quite understand;
I said, “Hey nice to meet you
But do you mind? We don’t shake hands
.”

He sailed right through medical school
Because he was a whiz
Oh but he never thought of psychology
Though he read “Passages
A doctor he wanted to be
For golf he loved to play
But this is not quite what he meant…
By eighteen holes a day!

Praise the colo-rectal surgeon
Misunderstood and much maligned
Slaving away in the heart of darkness
Working where the sun don’t shine
!

Does a pianist who, as a child, liked to tinkle on the piano really enjoy playing the same Chopin nocturne over and over again all his life?

Above: Polish composer / pianist Frederic Chopin ( Fryderyk Franciszek Chopin) (1810 – 1849) 

It’s nine o’clock on a Saturday
The regular crowd shuffles in
There’s an old man sitting next to me
Makin’ love to his tonic and gin

He says, “Son, can you play me a memory?
I’m not really sure how it goes,
But it’s sad and it’s sweet, and I knew it complete
When I wore a younger man’s clothes.”

La, la, la, de, de, da
La, la, de, de, da, da, da

Sing us a song, you’re the piano man
Sing us a song tonight
We’re all in the mood for a melody
And you’ve got us feelin’ alright

Now, John at the bar is a friend of mine
He gets me my drinks for free
And he’s quick with a joke or to light up your smoke
But there’s someplace that he’d rather be

He says, “Bill, I believe this is killing me.”
As a smile ran away from his face
Well, I’m sure that I could be a movie star
If I could get out of this place
.”

Oh, la, la, la, de, de, da
La, la, de, de, da, da, da

Now Paul is a real estate novelist
Who never had time for a wife
And he’s talkin’ with Davy, who’s still in the Navy
And probably will be for life

And the waitress is practicing politics
As the businessmen slowly get stoned
Yes, they’re sharing a drink they call loneliness
But it’s better than drinkin’ alone

Sing us a song, you’re the piano man
Sing us a song tonight
Well, we’re all in the mood for a melody
And you’ve got us feelin’ alright

It’s a pretty good crowd for a Saturday
And the manager gives me a smile
‘Cause he knows that it’s me they’ve been comin’ to see
To forget about Life for a while

And the piano, it sounds like a carnival
And the microphone smells like a beer
And they sit at the bar and put bread in my jar
And say, “Man, what are you doin’ here?

Oh, la, la, la, de, de, da
La, la, de, de, da, da, da

Sing us a song, you’re the piano man
Sing us a song tonight
Well, we’re all in the mood for a melody
And you’ve got us feelin’ alright

Why else does a politician who as a schoolboy discovered the techniques of manipulating people successfully continue as an adult, mouthing words and phrases as a minor government functionary?

Does he actually enjoy contorting his face and playing the fool and listening to the idiotic chatter of other politicians?

Surely he must once have dreamed of a different kind of life.

Even if he became the President of the United States, wouldn’t the price be too high?

No, one can hardly assume men do all this for pleasure and without feeling a desire for change.

They do it because they have been manipulated into doing it.

Their whole life is nothing but a series of conditioned reflexes, a series of animal acts.

A man who is no longer able to perform these acts, whose earning capacity is lessened, is considered a failure.

He stands to lose everything – wife, family, home, his whole purpose in life – all the things, in fact, which gave him security.

A man who has lost his capacity for earning money is freed from his burden.

He should be glad about this happy ending.

But freedom is the last thing he wants.

Man is always searching for someone or something to serve, for only then does he feel secure.

Comfortably numb, living a life of quiet desperation.

Hello? (Hello? Hello? Hello?)

Is there anybody in there?
Just nod if you can hear me
Is there anyone home?
Come on now
I hear you’re feeling down
Well I can ease your pain
Get you on your feet again
Relax
I’ll need some information first
Just the basic facts
Can you show me where it hurts?

There is no pain, you are receding
A distant ship smoke on the horizon
You are only coming through in waves
Your lips move, but I can’t hear what you’re saying
When I was a child I had a fever
My hands felt just like two balloons
Now I’ve got that feeling once again
I can’t explain you would not understand
This is not how I am
I have become comfortably numb

I have become comfortably numb

Okay (okay, okay, okay)
Just a little pinprick
There’ll be no more, ah
But you may feel a little sick
Can you stand up?
I do believe it’s working, good
That’ll keep you going through the show
Come on it’s time to go

There is no pain, you are receding
A distant ship, smoke on the horizon
You are only coming through in waves
Your lips move, but I can’t hear what you’re saying
When I was a child
I caught a fleeting glimpse
Out of the corner of my eye
I turned to look but it was gone
I cannot put my finger on it now
The child is grown
The dream is gone
I have become comfortably numb

Like the waters of the sea, tears have their level!

(José Echegaray)

Above: Spanish mathematican / dramatist José Echegaray (1832 – 1916)

Men love to work.

Late in the evening if you drive through working men’s suburbs, you will always see garage lights on.

Inside, groups of men labour over old cars, lovingly modifying, repairing and maintaining late into the night.

Others are busy building furniture in their workshops or working in metal and wood.

These are mostly men who have worked hard all day in uninteresting jobs but who, with passion and intelligence, apply themselves at night to their real interests.

Among the middle classes, the focus shifts to “renovating” – that endless fixing-up of our dwellings that seems to fill the whole of the years from 25 to 50.

In other countries, a plethora of exotic and weird hobbies – from electric trains to rose breeding, guinea pigs to Shakespeare acting – seem to draw men out from the stifling ordinariness of their daytime lives.

Well, I get up at seven, yeah
And I go to work at nine
I got no time for livin’
Yes, I’m workin’ all the time

It seems to me
I could live my life
A lot better than I think I am
I guess that’s why they call me
They call me the workin’ man

They call me the workin’ man
I guess that’s what I am

‘Cause I get home at five o’clock
And I take myself out an ice cold beer
Always seem to be wonderin’
Why there’s nothin’ goin’ down here

It seems to me
I could live my life
A lot better than I think I am
I guess that’s why they call me
The workin’ man

Well, they call me the workin’ man
I guess that’s what I am

Well, they call me the workin’ man
I guess that’s what I am

Well, I get up at seven, yeah
And I’ll go to work at nine
I got no time for livin’
Yes, I’m workin’ all the time

It seems to me
I could live my life
A lot better than I think I am
I guess that’s why they call me
They call me the workin’ man

Well, they call me the workin’ man
I guess that’s what I am

They call me the workin’ man
I guess that’s what I am

I have always made a respectable living, but I have not been willing to give up my life to getting the kind of money with which you can buy the best things in life.

I am stuck in business and routine and tedium.

I must live as I can, but I give up only as much as I must.

For the rest, I have lived and always will live my life as it can be lived at its best with art, music, poetry, literature, science, philosophy and thought.

I shall know the keener people of this world, think the keener thoughts and taste the keener pleasures as long as I can and as much as I can.

That is the real practical use of self-eduction and self-culture.

It converts a world which is only a good world for those who can win at its ruthless game into a world good for all of us.

Your education is the only thing that nothing can take from you in this life.

You can lose your money, your wife, your children, your pride, your honour and your life, but while you live you cannot lose your culture, such as it is.

(Cornelius Hirschberg, quoted by Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook)

If old age did not bring with it the placidity of living, what reward would be enough to console us for youth and life spent in struggles and sleepless nights?

The greatest heartbreak is to contemplate how the years fly away without peace arriving.

I was a mathematician by vocation, I did not see my death as likely, since in the demographic statistics, grief shows a much more intimate figure than colic, and I never feared to these, although I always ate very well. 

(José Echegaray)

Above: José Echegaray

We know that for hundreds of thousands of years, men have admired each other and have been admired by women in particular, for their activity.

Men were called on to pierce the dangerous places, carry handfuls of courage to the waterfalls, dust the tails of the wild boars.

Men have been loved for their astonishing initiative, embarking on wide oceans, starting a farm in rocky country, imagining a new business, doing it skillfully, working with beginnings, doing what has never been done, boldly going where no one has gone before.

Working hard and enjoying it comes naturally to men.

Yet it has been somewhat debased.

What a piece of work is a man!

How noble in reason!

How infinite in faculties!

In form and moving, how express and admirable!

In action, how like an angel!

In apprehension, how like a God.”

William Shakespeare put these words in Hamlet’s mouth, but he was definitely on to something.

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Men have had the courage to fight and die for the causes they believe in.

Men have been picking up weapons and fighting tyranny and oppression for millennia.

And they continue to do so.

The fight over what is a “just war” and which class of men actually started the battle in the first place, continues to rage.

Yet, more often and more numerously it is men who must screw their courage to the sticking post and fire the bullets before any discussion is even had.

A man provides.

And he does it even when he’s not appreciated or respected or even loved.

He simply bears up and he does it.

Because he’s a man.

Men may collect the straws that break their own backs, but they do so with a lot of love and duty.

Men try their best to provide for the people they love even when the task is nigh on impossible and it breaks them or their spirit.

It makes men vulnerable to systems they may not have had a hand in.

Two years before he became the 26th president of the US, Theodore Roosevelt said:

We do not admire the man of timid peace.

We admire the man who embodies victorious effort, the man who never wrongs his neighbour, who is prompt to help a friend, but who has those virile qualities necessary to win in the stern strife of actual life.

Above: Theodore Roosevelt (1858 – 1919)

D.H. Lawrence described how in industrial England, the men working in the coal mines took satisfaction and found comradeship in their work and were proud of being good providers.

Then schooling was introduced and rather than working with their fathers, boys began going to school.

There they were taught by white-collared teachers that their fathers’ world – the sweaty difficult world of physical labour was demeaning and that by applying themselves the young boys could aspire to a clean, educated, “higher” world.

The fact that this “advancement” meant an adult life spent stoopedd at desks doing dreary clerical tasks was not really questioned.

One was “bettering oneself“.

There was something virtuous in being clean, in never exerting one’s body.

Above: English writer David Herbert “D. H.” Lawrence (1885 – 1930)

Powerful symbols soon divided men.

One of these was the necktie.

A tie symbolizes something very profound – a willingness to fit in or to submit.

It says:

See, I am willing to go through the motions. I will be a good boy.”

At work a tie says: “I am willing to put up with this discomfort.” and therefore “I am willing to put up with other indignities and constraints to get and keep this job.”.

It is important to see a tie for what it is.

It is a slave collar.

Class is a funny thing.

Many men have long discovered too late that rising in the class hierarchy does not make you freer:

In fact, the reverse.

If you are a blue collar worker, the company wants your body but your soul is your own.

A white collar worker is supposed to hand over his spirit as well.

It is not just the tie – a whole uniform goes with it.

Look out the window.

Tell me what you see….

Look at the people.

Tell me which ones are free.

Free from debt, anxiety, stress, fear, failure, indignity, betrayal?

How many wish they were born knowing what know now?

Ask yourself:

How many would do things the same way all over again?

Above: Helen Rodin (Rosamund Pike) and Jack Reacher (Tom Cruise), Jack Reacher (2012)

There is a beautıful scene in the film, The Fringe Dwellers, where the Aboriginal men sit together making jokes about the poor white man spending his weekends mowing the lawn and washing the car.

In the US there is a slang term for the men who do the paperwork, attend to the boring details of the business world.

These men are called “suits“.

The millionaire in Pretty Woman strikes a deal and leaves the details to “the suits” to tidy up.

Suits (and the men who wear them) are characterized by their lack of colour, their lack of individuality.

Ride the commuter planes between cities any morning at 0700 or late in the evening and you will be amazed at the vast numbers of look-alike grey-faced men, moving endlessly to and fro across the country in the dreadful lifestyle of the “executive“.

They might be flying First or Business class.

They are first off the plane, into the Club Lounges, but no one in their right mind would envy them.

They are privileged eunuchs, leading a dry and joyless life.

He moved over to the window:

A smallish, frail figure, the meagreness of his body merely emphasized by the blue overalls which were the uniform of the Party.

His hair was very fair, his face naturally sanguine, his skin roughened by coarse soap and blunt razor blades and the cold of the winter that had just ended.

Outside, even through the shut window-pane, the world looked cold.

Down in the street little eddies of wind were whirling dust and torn paper into spirals, and though the sun was shining and the sky a harsh blue, there seemed to be no colour in anything, except the posters that were plastered everywhere.

(George Orwell, Nineteen Eighty-Four

Above: Winston Smith (John Hurt), Nineteen Eighty-Four (1984)

It isn’t the fact of working that does harm.

Work is good – it is what men love to do.

It is the nature of the work that is the problem.

If you do a job that lacks heart, it will kill you.

The strongest predictor of life expectancy in a man is whether he likes his job.

Two elements – the lack of real purpose and the lack of personal control – are the main problems.

Our ancestors laughed as they worked and sang.

They enjoyed the rush of the hunt, the steady teamwork of digging for yams or the discovery of a honey-filled tree.

What any documentary or archival footage of preliterate people, you will see the same thing.

Life was often hard but it was rarely without laughter.

In time, though, cultures evolved away from the forest and the coast and into the village and the town.

We did the work that others commanded and it became a grind – increasingly repetitive.

It was a numbing of the human senses and a subjugation of ourselves beneath the need just to survive.

Work has become more comfortable but not more fulfilling.

It is still a separate compartment in life – something you tolerate in exchange for “real” living in the time left over from doing your job, getting to your job and recovering from your job.

Work today drives an unhealthy wedge into the very core of our life.

The time has come to heal it.

Most people today, men and women, do work they do not much like – jobs that are beneath them.

Since you have to work to purchase the good life, the aim is to find the best paying job you can tolerate.

That is what jobs are.

Why else would you do them?

With unemployment rates today, to have any job is seen as a privilege and being choosy is a sin.

We have to fight this selling-short of human potential.

The purpose of life is to find what you really love to do.

Have work that your heart is in.

Work that makes you jump out of bed in the morning, keen to get started.

I think of José Echegaray y Eizaguirre (1832 – 1916), a Spanish civil engineer, mathematician, statesman, and one of the leading Spanish dramatists of the last quarter of the 19th century.

He made important contributions to mathematics and physics.

He introduced Chasles geometry, Galois theory and elliptic functions to Spain.

He is considered the greatest Spanish mathematician of the 19th century. 

Julio Rey Pastor stated:

For Spanish mathematics, the 19th century begins in 1865 with Echegaray.”

In 1911, he founded the Royal Spanish Mathematical Society.

Above: José Echegaray

He was awarded the 1904 Nobel Prize in Literature “in recognition of the numerous and brilliant compositions which, in an individual and original manner, have revived the great traditions of the Spanish drama“.

He was born in Madrid on 19 April 1832. 

His father, a doctor and institute professor of Greek, was from Aragon and his mother was from Navarra.

Above: Madrid, Spain

When he was 5 years old, his family moved to Murcia, due to his father’s work.

He spent his childhood in Murcia, where he finished his elementary school education.

It was there, at the Murcia Institute, where he first gained his love for mathematics.

Above: Murcia, Spain

Mathematics forms a sauce that goes well with all the stews of the spirit.

They harmonize with music and art in general.

As if they are all harmonies, varieties in one form or another, which resolve into a high and beautiful unity.

(José Echegaray)

Above: The Babylonian mathematical tablet Plimpton 322 (1800 BC)

While still a child he read Goethe, Homer and Balzac, readings that alternated with those of mathematicians like Gauss, Legendre, and Lagrange.

Above: German polymath / writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832)

Above: Bust of Greek poet Homer (8th century BC)

Above: French writer Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

Above: German mathematician Johann Carl Friedrich Gauß (1777 – 1855)

Above: Caricature of French mathematician Adrien-Marie Legendre (1752 – 1833)

Above: Italian mathematician Joseph-Louis Lagrange (né Giuseppe Ludovico Lagrangia) (1736 – 1813)

In order to earn enough money to attend the Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingeniería de Caminos, Canales y Puertos (Engineering School of Roads, Channels and Ports), he moved at the age of 14 to Madrid.

At the age of 20, he left the Madrid school with a Civil Engineering degree, which he had obtained as first in his class.

Above: Escuela de Ingenieros de Caminos, Canales_y_Puertos (Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Spain

He moved to Almeria and Granada to begin working at his first job.

Together with Gabriel Rodríguez he founded El Economista, a magazine in which he wrote numerous articles, thus beginning a journalistic activity that he would not abandon throughout his life.

In 1854 he began teaching a class at the engineering school, working as a secretary there also.

He taught mathematics, stereotomy, hydraulics, descriptive geometry, differential and physical calculus from that year until 1868.

From 1858 to 1860 he was also a professor at the Assistants’ School of Public Works.

In his career as a scientist and teacher he published many works on physics and mathematics.

His Problemas de geometría analítica (1865) and Teorías modernas de la física, Unidad de las fuerzas materiales (1867) were held in some regard.

Above: José Echegaray

He became a member of the Society of Political Economy, helped to found the magazine La Revista and took a prominent part in propagating free trade doctrines in the press and on the platform.

He was clearly marked out for office.

When the Glorious Revolution of 1868 overthrew the monarchy, he resigned his post for a place in the revolutionary cabinet.

Echegaray also entered politics later in his life.

As a founding member of the republican Radical Democratic Party, he enjoyed a career in the government sector, being appointed Minister of Education, of Public Works and Finance Minister successively between 1867 and 1874. 

He retired from politics after the Bourbon restoration in 1874.

Above: Spanish Parliament, Madrid

Theatre had always been the love of José Echegaray’s life.

Although he had written earlier plays (La Hija natural (“The Natural Daughter“) and La Última Noche, both in 1867), he truly became a dramatist in 1874. 

His plays reflected his sense of duty, which had made him famous during his time in the governmental offices.

Dilemmas centered on duty and morality are the motif of his plays.

He replicated the achievements of his predecessors of the Spanish Golden Age, remaining a prolific playwright.

He premiered 67 plays, 34 of them in verse, with great success among the public of the time, although devoid of literary value for later criticism.

He himself always maintained a distant attitude towards his works.

Echegaray had great prestige in Spain at the beginning of the 20th century, a prestige that reached the fields of literature, science and politics and a well-established fame in the Europe of his time.

His works were successful in cities such as London, Paris, Berlin and Stockholm.

Above: José Echegaray

His most famous play is El gran Galeoto (“The great galley slave“), a drama written in the grand 19th century manner of melodrama.

It is about the poisonous effect that unfounded gossip has on a middle-aged man’s happiness.

Echegaray filled it with elaborate stage instructions that illuminate what we would now consider a hammy style of acting popular in the 19th century. 

Paramount Pictures filmed it as a silent with the title changed to The World and His Wife.

It was the basis for a later film The Great Galeoto.

His most remarkable plays are O locura o santidad (“Saint or Madman?“)(1877), Mariana (1892), El estigma (1895), La duda (1898) and El loco Dios (“God the fool“)(1900).

Above: José Echegaray

(Mariana is a woman tormented by her past:

Her mother abandoned the family out of passion for a man named Alvarado who later made her the object of abuse until she died.

That is why Mariana has developed a neurotic impulse of revenge and humiliation towards the entire male gender.

She includes poor Daniel, whom she deep down loves.)

Among his other famous plays are La esposa del vengador (1874) (“The Avenger’s Wife“), En el puño de la espada (1875) (“In the Sword’s Handle”), En el pilar y en la cruz (1878) (“On the Stake and on the Cross“) and Conflicto entre dos deberes (1882) (“Conflict of Two Duties“).

Above: José Echegaray

El hijo de Don Juan (“Don Juan’s son“) (1892):

The young Lázaro loses his mind as a result of a strange illness transmitted to him by his father Don Juan, a man who led a totally dissolute life.

Mancha que limpia (“The stain that cleans“) (1895):

Matilde is a woman driven mad by jealousy over her beloved Fernando’s marriage to Enriquita, a perfidious woman who is unfaithful to him.

Matilde murders the woman and her husband pleads guilty to the crime in defense of her honour.

La calumnia por castigo (“Slander for punishment“) (1897) focuses on the diatribe of whether absolute rehabilitation exists in the criminal order.

Along with the Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral, he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1904, after having been nominated that year by a member of the Royal Spanish Academy, making him the first Spaniard to win the prize.

Above: French writer Frédéric Mistral (1830 – 1914)

I choose a passion, I take an idea, a problem, a character and I infuse it, like dense dynamite, deep into a character that my mind creates.

The plot, the character is surrounded by a few dolls that in the world either wallow in the filthy mud or warm themselves in the Phoebean light.

The fuse lit.

The fire is prepared, the cartridge bursts without remedy, and the main star is the one who pays for it.

Although sometimes also in this siege that I put on art and that flatters instinct, the explosion catches me in the middle!

Above: José Echegaray

José Echegaray maintained constant activity until his death on 14 September 1916 in Madrid. 

His extensive work did not stop growing in his old age:

In the final stage of his life he wrote 25 or 30 mathematical physics volumes.

At the age of 83 he commented:

I cannot die, because if I am going to write my mathematical physics encyclopedia, I need at least 25 more years.”

Above: José Echegaray

Known as a university town, Eskişehir Technical University, Eskişehir Osmangazi University and Anadolu University are based in Eskişehir.

The vast majority of my Wall Street English classes are either students presently enrolled in one of these univerisities or are alumni of these institutions.

Of these three universities and their combined 35 faculties, all have produced 80% of Wall Street English Eskişehir’s student body:

Engineers.

Engineers, as practitioners of engineering, are professionals who invent, design, analyze, build and test machines, complex systems, structures, gadgets and materials to fulfill functional objectives and requirements while considering the limitations imposed by practicality, regulation, safety and cost. 

The word engineer (Latin ingeniator) is derived from the Latin words ingeniare (“to contrive, devise“) and ingenium (“cleverness“).

The work of engineers forms the link between scientific discoveries and their subsequent applications to human and business needs and quality of life.

A professional engineer is competent by virtue of his/her fundamental education and training to apply the scientific method and outlook to the analysis and solution of engineering problems.

He/she is able to assume personal responsibility for the development and application of engineering science and knowledge, notably in research, design, construction, manufacturing, superintending, managing, and in the education of the engineer.

His/her work is predominantly intellectual and varied and not of a routine mental or physical character.

It requires the exercise of original thought and judgment and the ability to supervise the technical and administrative work of others.

His/her education will have been such as to make him/her capable of closely and continuously following progress in his/her branch of engineering science by consulting newly published works on a worldwide basis, assimilating such information, and applying it independently.

He/she is thus placed in a position to make contributions to the development of engineering science or its applications.

His/her education and training will have been such that he/she will have acquired a broad and general appreciation of the engineering sciences as well as thorough insight into the special features of his/her own branch.

In due time he/she will be able to give authoritative technical advice and assume responsibility for the direction of important tasks in his/her branch.

Medicine, law, business, engineering, these are noble pursuits and necessary to sustain life.

But poetry, beauty, romance, love, these are what we stay alive for.

(Dead Poets Society)

I am not anti-engineering.

As much I respect engineers and all that they do, as students I have found them to be more in love with and more comfortable with machines than they are with people.

The engineers I have mingled with have, with rare exception, been resistant to reading, to writing, to homework or conversation beyond what is unavoidably necessary.

Certainly, the history of literature has seen engineers quite capable of producing poetry, prose and plays, but they seem to me to be the exception rather than the rule.

This is what compels my curiosity regarding Echegaray, for he possessed a certain quality that I believe is crucial for everyone:

Passion for all that a person does.

I am reminded of the Wim Wenders film Perfect Days.

Hirayama (Kōji Yakusho) works as a public toilet cleaner in Tokyo’s upscale Shibuya ward, across town from his modest home in an ungentrified neighborhood east of the Sumida River.

He repeats his structured, ritualized life every day, starting at dawn.

He dedicates his free time to his passion for music, which he listens to in his van to and from work, and to his books, which he reads every night before going to sleep.

He reads stories by William Faulkner and Patricia Highsmith and the essays of Aya Kōda.

Above: American writer William Faulkner (1897 – 1962)

Above: American writer Patricia Highsmith (née Mary Patricia Plangman) (1921 – 1995)

Above: Japanese writer Aya Kōda (1904 – 1990)

Hirayama chooses the music he listens to, Wenders said:

Maybe he’s clinging to the past.

But he’s clinging a little bit also to his youth and he loves that music.

He chooses in the morning exactly what he’s going to listen to that day.

And it’s not random.

Above: German filmmaker / playwright Wim Wenders

His dreams are shown in flickery impressionistic sequences at the end of every day.

Hirayama is also very fond of trees and spends time gardening and photographing them.

He has a sandwich every day in the shade under trees in the grounds of a shrine and takes photos of their branches and leaves.

His pride in his work is apparent by its thoroughness and precision.

Hirayama’s young assistant, Takashi (Tokio Emoto), is often late, loud and not as thorough.

One day, a young woman named Aya (Aoi Yamada) stops by the public toilet Takashi is cleaning, so he hurries to finish.

Takashi tries to leave with Aya, but his motorbike will not start, so he convinces Hirayama to let him use his van.

When Aya says Takashi can stay with her as she works at a girls bar, he complains loudly that he is broke.

Above: Signage for hostess bars in Kabukichō, Tokyo, Japan

Unbeknownst to Hirayama, Takashi slips Hirayama’s Patti Smith tape into Aya’s purse.

Takashi talks Hirayama into going into a shop to get some of his cassettes appraised.

When Takashi discovers how valuable they are, he urges Hirayama to sell, but Hirayama refuses, giving him some cash so he can take out Aya.

When Hirayama runs out of gas on the way home, he is forced to sell a cassette for gas money.

Above: American artist Patti Smith

Hirayama commences a tic-tac-toe game with a stranger after finding a piece of paper left hidden in a stall.

The game continues over the course of the film.

He exchanges furtive glances with a strange woman eating lunch one bench over.

Aya catches up with Hirayama to return the Patti Smith cassette.

She asks to play it in his van one last time and then gives him a thank-you kiss on the cheek, leaving him visibly startled.

On his free day, Hirayama does his laundry, takes the film with his tree photos to be developed, cleans his flat, buys a new book, and dines out at a restaurant where the female proprietor shares gossip with him.

Niko (Arisa Nakano), Hirayama’s niece, shows up unannounced, having run away from his wealthy estranged sister Keiko’s home.

He lets Niko accompany him to work during the next two days.

The two photograph the trees in the park and ride bikes together.

Eventually, Keiko (Yumi Asō) comes to pick up Niko in a chauffeured car.

Keiko tells him that their father’s dementia has worsened and asks whether Hirayama will visit him in the nursing home where he lives.

She says that he doesn’t recognize anything anymore and will not behave the way he did before.

Hirayama sorrowfully refuses but hugs his sister good-bye.

Before she leaves, she asks him whether he really cleans toilets for a living, and he says yes.

As they drive away, Hirayama begins to cry inconsolably.

The next day, Takashi quits without giving notice, leaving Hirayama to cover his shift.

Later, as Hirayama goes to his usual restaurant, he opens the door and sees the proprietor embracing a man (Min Tanaka).

Hirayama hurries off, buying cigarettes and three canned highballs to consume at a nearby riverbank.

The man Hirayama saw at the restaurant approaches and asks him for a cigarette.

The man tells him the restaurant proprietor is his ex-wife whom he had not seen in seven years and that she opened her restaurant the year after divorcing him.

He says he visited her to make peace before he dies from cancer, telling Hirayama to look after her.

Hirayma lightens the mood by offering him a drink and inviting him to play shadow tag, and they eventually part ways.

The following morning, Hirayama begins another workweek.

As he drives his van and listens to Nina Simone sing “Feeling Good“, a range of powerful emotions washes over his face.

Above: American musician / activist Nina Simone (née Eunice Kathleen Waymon) (1933 – 2003)

Realistically, for many men, the trick is finding the heart in the work you already do.

It is possible to be an honest real estate salesman, lawyer, politician, doctor, and so on.

Think about your job.

How would you go about removing the facade that is traditionally built up in your line of work so that you can be more of the real you?

An architect gives up on the entire concept of deadlines, realizing that the word itself is sinister.

He tells his clients in advance that he uses “alive-lines” – realistic but flexible schedules that can be negotiated as they proceed – and the result will be a better building.

A bank manager places before all other priorities the considerate development of his staff’s careers.

A shop assistant, a young man 20-something, is so gentle and tender in his handling of a confused old lady that it brings tears to those that observe the scene.

These people are different from the norm.

They transform the banal into magic.

They have the confidence that comes from some inner sense of what matters.

We have recessions because there is no growth in the economy.

Yet we live in a finite world that cannot sustain growth anyhow.

So an economic boom is disastrous as well.

When mainstream men abandon their urge to compete and simply enjoy being and doing what is useful as opposed to profitable, then we will have the kind of stable economy the world needs.

Instead of more factories and office towers, we will build a spiritual, intellectual and social infrastructure that will make us healthy, secure and self-sufficient – qualities that even measured in Turkish liras, US dollars or EU euros will be impressive.

Love, fun and idealism have as much place at work as in any other aspect of life.

I am reminded of the Hermann Hesse classic Siddhartha:

The story takes place in ancient India and Nepal.

Siddhartha decides to leave his home in the hope of gaining spiritual illumination by becoming an ascetic wandering beggar of the Śamaṇa.

Joined by his best friend Govinda, Siddhartha fasts, becomes homeless, renounces all personal possessions, and intensely meditates, eventually seeking and personally speaking with Gautama, the famous Buddha, or Enlightened One.

Afterward, both Siddhartha and Govinda acknowledge the elegance of the Buddha’s teachings.

Although Govinda hastily joins the Buddha’s order, Siddhartha does not follow, claiming that the Buddha’s philosophy, though supremely wise, does not account for the necessarily distinct experiences of each person.

He argues that the individual seeks an absolutely unique, personal meaning that cannot be presented to him by a teacher.

He thus resolves to carry on his quest alone.

Siddhartha crosses a river and the generous ferryman, whom Siddhartha is unable to pay, merrily predicts that Siddhartha will return to the river later to compensate him in some way.

Venturing onward toward city life, Siddhartha discovers Kamala, the most beautiful woman he has yet seen.

Kamala, a courtesan, notes Siddhartha’s handsome appearance and fast wit, telling him that he must become wealthy to win her affections so that she may teach him the art of love.

Although Siddhartha despised materialistic pursuits as a Śamaṇa, he agrees now to Kamala’s suggestions.

She directs him to the employ of Kamaswami, a local businessman, and insists that he have Kamaswami treat him as an equal rather than an underling.

Siddhartha easily succeeds, providing a voice of patience and tranquility, which Siddhartha learned from his days as an ascetic, against Kamaswami’s fits of passion.

Thus Siddhartha becomes a rich man and Kamala’s lover, though in his middle years he realizes that the luxurious lifestyle he has chosen is merely a game that lacks spiritual fulfillment.

Leaving the fast-paced bustle of the city, Siddhartha returns to the river fed up with life and disillusioned, contemplating suicide before falling into a meditative sleep, and is saved only by an internal experience of the holy word, Om.

The very next morning, Siddhartha briefly reconnects with Govinda, who is passing through the area as a wandering Buddhist.

Siddhartha decides to live the rest of his life in the presence of the spiritually inspirational river.

Siddhartha thus reunites with the ferryman, named Vasudeva, with whom he begins a humbler way of life.

Although Vasudeva is a simple man, he understands and relates that the river has many voices and significant messages to divulge to any who might listen.

Some years later, Kamala, now a Buddhist convert, is travelling to see the Buddha at his deathbed, accompanied by her reluctant young son, when she is bitten by a venomous snake near Siddhartha’s river.

Siddhartha recognizes her and realizes that the boy is his own son.

After Kamala’s death, Siddhartha attempts to console and raise the furiously resistant boy, until one day the child flees altogether.

Although Siddhartha is desperate to find his runaway son, Vasudeva urges him to let the boy find his own path, much like Siddhartha did himself in his youth.

Listening to the river with Vasudeva, Siddhartha realizes that time is an illusion and that all of his feelings and experiences, even those of suffering, are part of a great and ultimately jubilant fellowship of all things connected in the cyclical unity of nature.

After Siddhartha’s moment of illumination, Vasudeva claims that his work is done and he must depart into the woods, leaving Siddhartha peacefully fulfilled and alone once more.

Towards the end of his life, Govinda hears about an enlightened ferryman and travels to Siddhartha, not initially recognizing him as his old childhood friend.

Govinda asks the now-elderly Siddhartha to relate his wisdom and Siddhartha replies that for every true statement there is an opposite one that is also true, that language and the confines of time lead people to adhere to one fixed belief that does not account for the fullness of the truth.

Because nature works in a self-sustaining cycle, every entity carries in it the potential for its opposite and so the world must always be considered complete.

Siddhartha simply urges people to identify and love the world in its completeness.

Siddhartha then requests that Govinda kiss his forehead and, when he does, Govinda experiences the visions of timelessness that Siddhartha himself saw with Vasudeva by the river.

Govinda bows to his wise friend and Siddhartha smiles radiantly, having found enlightenment.

Thus he experiences a whole circle of life.

He realizes his father’s importance and love when he himself becomes a father and his own son leaves him to explore the outside world.

Money pays the bills, but life should be more than just paying bills.

Echegaray, Hirayama and Siddhartha all had passion for what they did.

They did their share to contribute to the world in their own unique ways.

They were able to support themselves and in their individual ways improved the lives of others, enhancing their lives and futures.

They found the heart in the work they did.

Man has a thirst for knowledge.

He wants to know what the world around him looks like and how it functions.

Man thinks.

He draws conclusions from the data he collects.

Man is creative.

He makes something new out of the information acquired.

Man is sensitive.

As a result of his exceptionally wide, multidimensional emotional scale, he not only registers the commonplace in fine gradations but he creates and discovers new emotional values and makes them accessible to others through sensible descriptions or recreates them as an artist.

Man’s curiosity is universal.

There is almost nothing that does not interest him.

Men not only observe the world around them, it is in their nature to make comparisons and to apply the knowledge they have gained elsewhere with the ultimate aim to transform this newfound knowledge into something else, something new.

With his many gifts men would appear to be ideally suited, both mentally and physically, to lead a life both fulfilled and free.

If a young man gets married, starts a family and spends the rest of his life working at a soul-destroying job, he is held up as an example of virtue and responsibility.

Another type of man, living only for himself, working only for himself, doing first one thing and then another simply because he enjoys it and because he has to keep only himself, sleeping where and when he wants, and facing woman when he meets her, on equal terms and not as a servant somehow expected to serve woman simply by virtue of her sex, is rejected by society.

The free unshackled man has no place in society.

How depressing it is to see men betraying all that they were born to.

New worlds could be discovered, instead we focus on the preservation of the status quo.

Instead we forsake all our tremendous potential and permit our minds and bodies to be distracted by the need to appease the eternally-dissatisfied opposite gender.

I find myself thinking of the movie My Fair Lady.

In London, Professor Henry Higgins, a scholar of phonetics, believes that one’s accent determines a person’s prospects in society (“Why Can’t the English?“).

At the Covent Garden fruit-and-vegetable market one evening, he listens to Eliza Doolittle, a young flower seller with a strong Cockney accent, and makes notes.

This causes others to suspect he is a “tec” (detective).

When Eliza protests that she has done nothing wrong, she asks Colonel Hugh Pickering, himself a phonetics expert, to confirm this.

Pickering and Higgins are delighted to become acquainted.

In fact, Pickering had come from India just to meet Higgins.

Higgins boasts he could teach even someone like Eliza to speak so well he could pass her off as a duchess at an embassy ball.

Eliza wants to work in a flower shop, but her accent makes that impossible (“Wouldn’t It Be Loverly“).

The following morning, Eliza shows up at Higgins’s home, seeking lessons.

Pickering is intrigued and offers to cover all the attendant expenses if Higgins succeeds.

Higgins agrees and describes how women ruin lives (“I’m an Ordinary Man“).

Eliza’s father, Alfred P. Doolittle, a dustman, learns of his daughter’s new residence (“With a Little Bit of Luck“).

He shows up at Higgins’s house three days later, ostensibly to protect his daughter’s virtue, but in reality to extract some money from Higgins, and is bought off with £5.

Higgins is impressed by the man’s honesty, his natural gift for language, and especially his brazen lack of morals.

Higgins recommends Alfred to a wealthy American who is interested in morality.

Eliza endures Higgins’s demanding teaching methods and harsh treatment (“Just You Wait“), while the servants feel both annoyed with the noise as well as pity for Higgins (“Servants’ Chorus“).

She makes no progress, but just as she, Higgins, and Pickering are about to give up, Eliza finally “gets it” (“The Rain in Spain“).

She instantly begins to speak with an impeccable upper-class accent, and is overjoyed at her breakthrough (“I Could Have Danced All Night“).

As a trial run, Higgins takes her to Ascot Racecourse (“Ascot Gavotte“), where she makes a good impression initially, only to shock everyone by a sudden lapse into vulgar Cockney while cheering on a horse.

Higgins is amused.

There, she meets Freddy Eynsford-Hill, a young upper-class man who becomes infatuated with her (“On the Street Where You Live“).

Higgins then takes Eliza to an embassy ball, where she dances with a foreign prince.

Zoltan Karpathy, a Hungarian trained by Higgins, watches and listens, and declares she is a Hungarian princess.

Afterward, Eliza’s hard work is ignored, with all the praise going to Higgins (“You Did It“).

This and his callous treatment of her, especially his indifference to her future, causes her to walk out on him, but not before she throws his slippers at him, leaving him mystified by her ingratitude (“Just You Wait [Reprise]“).

Outside, Freddy is waiting (“On the Street Where You Live [Reprise]“) and greets Eliza, who is irritated by him as all he does is talk (“Show Me“).

She tries to return to her old life, but finds that she no longer fits in.

She meets her father, who has been left a large fortune by the wealthy American to whom Higgins had recommended him, and is resigned to marrying Eliza’s stepmother.

Alfred feels that Higgins has ruined him, lamenting that he is now bound by “middle-class morality” (“Get Me to the Church On Time“).

Eliza eventually visits Higgins’s mother, who is outraged at her son’s behavior.

The next day, Higgins finds Eliza gone and searches for her (“A Hymn to Him“), eventually finding her at his mother’s house.

He attempts to talk her into coming back to him.

He becomes angered when she announces that she is going to marry Freddy and become Karpathy’s assistant (“Without You“).

He goes home, predicting that she will come crawling back.

However, he comes to the realization that she has become important to him (“I’ve Grown Accustomed to Her Face“).

He turns on his gramophone and listens to her voice.

When she shows up, Higgins nonchalantly asks:

Eliza, where the devil are my slippers?

Higgins, forgive the bluntness, but if I’m to be in this business, I shall be a responsible for the girl.
Are you a man of good character where women are concerned?
Have you ever met a man of good character where women are concerned? Well, I haven’t.
I find the moment that a woman makes friends with me, she becomes jealous, exacting, suspicious and a damn nuisance.
And I find that the moment I make friends with a woman, I become selfish and tyrannical.
So here I am, a confirmed old bachelor and likely to remain so.
Well after all, Pickering:

I’m an ordinary man
Who desires nothing more
Than just an ordinary chance to live exactly as he likes
And do precisely what he wants.
An average man am I, of no eccentric whim
Who likes to live his life, free of strife
Doing whatever he thinks is best, for him.
Well, just an ordinary man

But, let a woman in your life
And your serenity is through.
She’ll redecorate your home, from the cellar to the dome
Then go on to the enthralling fun of overhauling you
.

Let a woman in your life
And you’re up against a wall.
Make a plan and you will find
She has something else in mind
And so rather than do either
You do something else that neither likes at all
.

You want to talk of Keats or Milton.
She only wants to talk of love.
You go to see a play or ballet
And spend it searching for her glove
.

Let a woman in your life
And you invite eternal strife.
Let them buy their wedding bands
For those anxious little hands
.

I’d be equally as willing for a dentist to be drilling
Than to ever let a woman in my life
.

I’m a very gentle man,
Even tempered and good natured
Whom you never hear complain,
Who has the milk of human kindness
By the quart in every vein.
A patient man am I, down to my fingertips,
The sort who never could, ever would
Let an insulting remark escape his lips.
A very gentle man

But, let a woman in your life
And patience hasn’t got a chance.
She will beg you for advice, your reply will be concise
And she’ll will listen very nicely
Then go out and do precisely what she wants
.

You are a man of grace and polish
Who never spoke above a hush.
Now all at once you’re using language
That would make a sailor blush
.

Let a woman in your life
And you’re plunging in a knife.
Let the others of my sex
Tie the knot around their necks
.

I prefer a new edition of the Spanish Inquisition
Than to ever let a woman in my life
.

I’m a quiet living man
Who prefers to spend the evenings
In the silence of his room,
Who likes an atmosphere as restful
As an undiscovered tomb.
A pensive man am I, of philosophic joys
Who likes to meditate, contemplate
Free from humanity’s mad inhuman noise.
A quiet-living man

But, let a woman in your life
And your sabbatical is through.
In a line that never ends come an army of her friends
Come to jabber and to chatter
And to tell her what the matter is with you
.

She’ll have a booming boisterous family
Who will descend on you en mass.
She’ll have a large Wagnerian mother
With a voice that shatters glass
.

Let a woman in your life
Let a woman in your life

I shall never let a woman in my life.

I am not suggesting that we all become MGTOW (men going their own way).

I will only remark that a woman is like a road in the rain where caution is advised when encountering dangerous curves.

I tell my younger charges to build themselves up first, physically, psychologically and financially, before yearning after women.

I have no doubt with the confidence a man carries when he is physically, psychologically and financially strong he need not chase women, they will find him.

Guys (and gals), find work deserving of your time and passion.

Do what you love.

Love what you do.

Whether you are a flower girl or a ferryman, a mathematician or a bus driver, a teacher or a toilet cleaner, be professional.

Put your passion into being the best you can be, where you are, right now.

Refuse to accept those who will not love you for who you are and reject you for what you do.

Where you are does not necessarily mean that is where you must remain.

It is not the job that gives dignity to the man.

It is the man that gives dignity to the job.

Somehow, the world has become topsy-turvy.

The focus has been a woman can simply be – though they dare not be without their masks of femininity -and a man must become.

So often I hear of the impossible standards a woman insists a man must meet to be worthy of her and men reeling from rejection never realizing that it is men who are the true prize and that a woman needs to show him that they are worthy, not because they are women but in spite of this.

Let us be together not because we need one another, but because we simply want to be with one another.

Let us have an attitude of take-it-or-leave-it.

Rather than searching for happiness in a relationship, we should instead focus on making ourselves happy first.

Happiness is never found in the arms of another.

It is cultivated within ourselves and then shared with others.

Neither gender was meant to serve the other.

The Lord God said:

It is not good for the man to be alone.

I will make a helper suitable for him.

(Holy Bible, Genesis 2:18)

We are meant to help one another.

Talk a walk
We can hardly breathe the air
Look around
It’s a hard life everywhere

People talk but they never really care
On the street there’s a feeling of despair
Everyday, there’s a brand new baby born
Everyday, there’s a sun to keep you warm

When it’s alright
Yeah, it’s alright
I’m alive
And I don’t care much for words of doom

If it’s love you need
Well, I got the room
It’s a simple thing changed in me
When I found you

I’m alive
I’m alive
Every night on the streets of Hollywood
Pretty girls come to give you something good

Love for sale
It’s a lonely town at night
Therapy for a heart misunderstood
Look around, there’s a flower on every street
Look around and it’s growing at your feet

Everyday you can hear me say
That I’m alive
I want to take all that life has got to give
All I need is someone to share it with

I got love and love is all I really need to live
I’m alive
I’m alive
Everyday, there’s a brand new baby born
Everyday, there’s enough to keep you warm

It’s ok
And I’m glad to say
I’m alive
And I don’t care much for words of doom

If it’s love you got, well, I’ve got the room
It’s a simple thing that came to me when I found you
I’m alive
I’m alive

And I don’t care much for words of doom
If it’s love you need, well, I got the room
It’s a simple thing that came to me and I thank God
I’m alive

I can take all that life has got to give
If I’ve got someone to share it with

(“I’m Alive“, Neil Diamond)

Sources

Steve Biddulph, Manhood

Bowser and Blue, “The Colo-rectal Surgeon Song”

Lee Child, One Shot

Neil Diamond, “I’m Alive

Flight of the Conchords, “Bus Driver

Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook

Merle Haggard, “Workin’ Man Blues

Hermann Hesse, Siddhartha

Billy Joel, “Piano Man

Anthea McTerrnan, “In Praise of Men“, Irish Times, 29 September 2016

My Fair Lady, “I’m an Ordinary Man

George Orwell, Nineteen Eighty-Four

Pink Floyd, “Comfortably Numb

Rush, “Workin’ Man

Tom Schulman, Dead Poets Society

George Thorogood, “Get a Haircut

Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

The Penniless Parliament of Threadbare Poets

Eskişehir, Türkiye

Thursday 18 April 2024 (continued)

I get up in the evenin’
And I ain’t got nothin’ to say
I come home in the mornin’
I go to bed feelin’ the same way
I ain’t nothin’ but tired
Man, I’m just tired and bored with myself
Hey there, baby, I could use just a little help

You can’t start a fire
You can’t start a fire without a spark
This gun’s for hire
Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark

Messages keep gettin’ clearer
Radio’s on and I’m movin’ ’round my place
I check my look in the mirror
Wanna change my clothes, my hair, my face
Man, I ain’t gettin’ nowhere
I’m just livin’ in a dump like this
There’s somethin’ happenin’ somewhere
Baby, I just know that there is

You can’t start a fire
You can’t start a fire without a spark
This gun’s for hire
Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark

You sit around gettin’ older
There’s a joke here somewhere and it’s on me
I’ll shake this world off my shoulders
Come on, baby, the laugh’s on me

Stay on the streets of this town
And they’ll be carvin’ you up alright
They say you gotta stay hungry
Hey baby, I’m just about starvin’ tonight
I’m dyin’ for some action
I’m sick of sittin’ ’round here tryin’ to write this book
I need a love reaction
Come on now, baby, gimme just one look

You can’t start a fire
Sittin’ ’round cryin’ over a broken heart
This gun’s for hire
Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark


You can’t start a fire
Worryin’ about your little world fallin’ apart
This gun’s for hire
Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark


Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark
Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark
Even if we’re just dancin’ in the dark
Hey baby

(“Dancin’ in the Dark“, Bruce Springsteen)

In my last blogpost (Middleton and other musings) I wrote about Thomas Middleton (18 April 1580 – July 1627), an English Jacobean playwright and poet, who was among the most successful and prolific of playwrights at work in the Jacobean period, and among the few to gain equal success in comedy and tragedy, and whom T. S. Eliot thought was second only to Shakespeare.

Of his works In the early 17th century, Middleton made a living writing topical pamphlets, including one –Penniless Parliament of Threadbare Poets – that was reprinted several times and became the subject of a parliamentary inquiry.

Above: Thomas Middleton

I have been unable, so far, to find neither a copy of this nor even a synopsis of what this pamphlet contained.

But the title intrigues me and has me asking a question:

Do writers (or any other artists) need be “threadbare“?

“A romantic notion persists:

The artist, the writer, crammed in a tiny city apartment, water stains above their head, mice running in the wall.

They are bent over a beautiful creation:

A painting, a story, a dish on a menu, a clay figurine.

They have flowers next to them, not in a vase, but in a bottle.

The window is open.

The night is starry and warm.

Above: The Starry Sky, Vincent van Gogh

The sounds of the city provide the eternal soundtrack.

You can hear the sound of the underground trains
You know it feels like distant thunder
You can hear the sound of the underground trains
You know it feels like distant thunder

You know there’s so many people living in this house
And I don’t even know their names
You know there’s so many people living in this house
And I don’t even know their names

I guess it’s just a feeling
I guess it’s just a feeling (in the city)
I guess it’s just a feeling
I guess it’s just a feeling (in the city)

You can hear the sound of the underground trains
You know it feels like distant thunder
You can hear the sound of the underground trains
You know it feels like distant thunder

Walls so thin, I can almost hear them breathing
And if I listen in, I hear my own heart beating
Walls so thin, I can almost hear them breathing
And if I listen in, I hear my own heart beating
In the city

I guess it’s just a feeling
I guess it’s just a feeling (in the city)
I guess it’s just a feeling
I guess it’s just a feeling (in the city)

(Repeat 4X)

(“This City Never Sleeps“, Eurhythmics)

Though the writer wears thrift store finds, they are stylish enough, retro in a way.

Suzanne takes you down to her place near the river
You can hear the boats go by, you can spend the night beside her
And you know that she’s half-crazy but that’s why you wanna to be there
And she feeds you tea and oranges that come all the way from China
And just when you mean to tell her that you have no love to give her
Then she gets you on her wavelength
And she lets the river answer that you’ve always been her lover

And you want to travel with her, and you want to travel blind
And then you know that she will trust you
For you’ve touched her perfect body with your mind

And Jesus was a sailor when he walked upon the water
And he spent a long time watching from his lonely wooden tower
And when he knew for certain only drowning men could see him
He said all men will be sailors then until the sea shall free them
But he himself was broken, long before the sky would open
Forsaken, almost human, he sank beneath your wisdom like a stone

And you want to travel with him, and you want to travel blind
And then you think maybe you’ll trust him
For he’s touched your perfect body with his mind

Now, Suzanne takes your hand and she leads you to the river
She’s wearing rags and feathers from Salvation Army counters
And the sun pours down like honey on our Lady of the harbor
And she shows you where to look among the garbage and the flowers
There are heroes in the seaweed, there are children in the morning
They are leaning out for love and they will lean that way forever
While Suzanne holds the mirror

And you want to travel with her, and you want to travel blind
And then you know that you can trust her
For she’s touched your perfect body with her mind

(“Suzanne“, Leonard Cohen)

A bowl of noodles sits nearby, already cold because, being so consumed by the process of creation, the artist has forgotten to eat.

Because the art is everything.

This is the artist’s choice.

They are choosing to be a maker, a creater, someone who does something significant.

Above: Bedroom in Arles, Vincent van Gogh

They have no job.

They have no prospects but for this half-made art in front of them.

They have chosen to jump out of the plane without a parachute, dangerously, madly, wonderfully assured that they will figure out how to make a parachute on the way down.

She’s a good girl, loves her mama
Loves Jesus and America too
She’s a good girl, is crazy ’bout Elvis
Loves horses and her boyfriend too

And it’s a long day livin’ in Reseda
There’s a freeway runnin’ through the yard
And I’m a bad boy, ’cause I don’t even miss her
I’m a bad boy for breakin’ her heart

And I’m free
Free fallin’
Yeah, I’m free
Free fallin’

And all the vampires walkin’ through the valley
Move west down Ventura Boulevard (Ventura Boulevard)
And all the bad boys are standin’ in the shadows
And the good girls are home with broken hearts

And I’m free
I’m free fallin’
Yeah, I’m free
Free fallin’

Free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m

Free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m

I wanna glide down over Mulholland (oh-ah)
I wanna write her name in the sky (oh-ah)
I’m gonna free fall out into nothin’ (oh-ah)
Gonna leave this world for awhile (oh-ah)

And I’m free (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)
Free fallin’ (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)
Yeah, I’m free (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)
Free fallin’ (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)

Free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m
Yeah, I’m free
Free fallin’

Oh! (Free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)
Free fallin’ (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)
And I’m free (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’) oh! (Now I’m)

Free fallin’ (free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m)
Free fallin’, now I’m free fallin’, now I’m
Free fallin’ (free fallin’, now I’m free…)

(“Free Fallin’, Tom Petty)

Follow your dreams, writers.

Reckless abandon.

Give your art your everything.

Tell your story at any cost.

Well, I won’t back down
No I won’t back down
You could stand me up at the gates of Hell
But I won’t back down

No I’ll stand my ground
Won’t be turned around
And I’ll keep this world from draggin’ me down
Gonna stand my ground
And I won’t back down

Hey baby
There ain’t no easy way out (I won’t back down)
Hey I will stand my ground
And I won’t back down

Well, I know what’s right
I got just one life
In a world that keeps on pushin’ me around
But I’ll stand my ground
And I won’t back down

Hey baby
There ain’t no easy way out (I won’t back down)
Hey I will stand my ground (I won’t back down)
And I won’t back down

Hey baby
There ain’t no easy way out (I won’t back down)
Hey I won’t back down

Hey baby
There ain’t no easy way out (I won’t back down)
Hey I will stand my ground (I won’t back down)
And I won’t back down (I won’t back down)
No I won’t back down

(“I Won’t Back Down“, Tom Petty)

It all sounds quite nice.

It is not that this is entirely wrong.

A life in service to art and story is one that features a little bit of sacrifice, at least in the sense that when you choose to do something it means you perhaps close other doors.

Eventually, picking a path means rejecting other paths.

You can go back and return to those rejected paths, but that requires different sacrifices, including the sacrifice of time and effort.

As the idea goes, we have only so much time in our day and so many days in our life, so get busy writing or that time is lost.

Above: Scene from The Shawshank Redemption

But there is a line.

A very important line.

It is one thing to take your work seriously and give it your all.

It is another where you sacrifice a normal life and its essentials in its pursuit.

To cut to the chase:

You should not be ashamed of your day job.

Been working like a dog gone crazy
I’ve been giving everything I’ve got
I need something short and sweet to save me
A little something that can hit the spot

I’ve been living like a man in a prison
I’ve been living like a monk in a cave
I need a woman with a good position
I start searching at the end of the day

Pack it in and go to town
When the sun goes down (down, down, down)
And do the tomcat prowl
When the sun goes down (down, down, down)

I’ve been punching out a clock since 15
I’ve been living on a working wage
You keep paying me, and I’ll keep lifting
I keep a-lifting ’til the end of the day

Then pack it in and go to town
When the sun goes down, mmm, yeah!
Do the moon dog howl
When the sun goes down (down, down, down)
And do the tomcat prowl
When the sun goes down (down, down, down)
Howl! (Down)

Gotta find a way to ease that pressure
Gotta find a way to ease that pain
Gotta find myself some buried treasure
Gotta find it before the sun comes up again

It doesn’t matter if you’re sane or crazy
It doesn’t matter if you’re weak or strong
It doesn’t matter if your past is hazy
It doesn’t matter, you can all come along

Pack it in and go to town
When the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl
When the sun goes down (down, down, down)
Sun goes down!

Pack it in and go to town
When the sun goes down (sun goes down, yeah!)
And do the tomcat prowl
When the sun goes down (howl!)

Do the moon dog howl
When the sun goes down

(“Tom Cat Prowl“, Doug and the Slugs)

Why are day jobs a good thing?

Starvation is not a good condition for making art.

Being worried about where your next paycheck is going to come from does not make it easy to effortlessly create art.

Half the time I would want to spend writing I would instead just looking for jobs.

It was easier to write when I was working jobs, despite jobs taking up the lion’s share of time.

And, on the flip side of it, having those moderately stupid and occasionally terrible jobs also reminded me that this was not what I wanted to do for a living.

So it gave the impetus to push, to look for different, to look for better, and to keep on writing every moment I could spare.

Before work, during lunch breaks, after work, I would write.

And eventually I seized an opportunity to write freelance and did that for just over a decade.

But I still didn’t quit my day job for years into that freelance gig.

When I did, ıt was a difficult transition:

I had to learn to budget, to really chase deadlines, to chase jobs.

And when I transitioned from freelance to writing novels, that was tough, too.

Last night, I had the strangest dream
I sailed away to China
In a little rowboat to find ya
And you said you had to get your laundry clean
Didn’t want no one to hold you, what does that mean?
And you said

[Chorus]
Ain’t nothin’ gonna break my stride
Nobody gonna slow me down
Oh no, I got to keep on moving
Ain’t nothin’ gonna break-a my stride
I’m runnin’ and I won’t touch ground
Oh no, I got to keep on moving


You’re on a roll and now you pray it lasts
The road behind was rocky
But now you’re feeling cocky
You look at me and you see your past
Is that the reason why you’re runnin’ so fast?
And she said

[Chorus]
Ain’t nothin’ gonna break my stride
Nobody gonna slow me down
Oh no, I got to keep on moving
Ain’t nothin’ gonna break-a my stride
I’m runnin’ and I won’t touch ground
Oh no, I got to keep on moving

Getting to go fulltime as a writer was, for me, an epic and profound privilege.

I only got to do it in part because the freelance work became so much that I had to either cut it or the day job out.

You need food to live and a roof over your head.

You need the security of health care.

Anthony works in the grocery store
Savin’ his pennies for someday
Mama Leone left a note on the door
She said, “Sonny, move out to the country
Workin’ too hard can give you
A heart attack (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now (oughta know)
Who needs a house out in Hackensack
Is that what you get for your money?

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

Sergeant O’Leary is walkin’ the beat
At night he becomes a bartender
He works at Mister Cacciatore’s down
On Sullivan Street
Across from the medical center
He’s tradin’ in his Chevy for a Cadillac (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)


You oughta know by now
And if he can’t drive
With a broken back
At least he can polish the fenders

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

You should never argue with a crazy mind (mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-)
You oughta know by now
You can pay Uncle Sam with the overtime
Is that all you get for your money


If that’s what you have in mind
If that’s what you’re all about
Good luck movin’ up
‘Cause I’m moving out
I’m moving out (mmm)
Ou, ou, uh huh (mmm)

I’m moving out

(“Movin’ Out“, Billy Joel)

There is zero shame in a day job.

And a day job may very well be crucial, because writing – as a hobby, as a semi-pro endeavour or as a fully professional gig – is not always a delivery system for reliable income.

Hell, even when the money is good, it can arrive erratically.

Feast or famine.

During times of famine, a day job will keep you fed.

You get up every morning from your alarm clock’s warning
Take the 8:15 into the city
There’s a whistle up above and people pushin’, people shovin’
And the girls who try to look pretty
And if your train’s on time, you can get to work by nine
And start your slaving job to get your pay
If you ever get annoyed, look at me I’m self-employed
I love to work at nothing all day

And I’ll be taking care of business (every day)
Taking care of business (every way)
I’ve been taking care of business (it’s all mine)
Taking care of business and working overtime, work out

If it were easy as fishin’ you could be a musician
If you could make sounds loud or mellow
Get a second-hand guitar, chances are you’ll go far
If you get in with the right bunch of fellows
People see you having fun just a-lying in the sun
Tell them that you like it this way
It’s the work that we avoid, and we’re all self-employed
We love to work at nothing all day

And we be taking care of business (every day)
Taking care of business (every way)
We be been taking care of business (it’s all mine)
Taking care of business and working overtime

Mercy
Whoo
All right

Take good care of my business
When I’m away, every day
Whoo

They get up every morning from their alarm clock’s warning
Take the 8:15 into the city
There’s a whistle up above and people pushin’, people shovin’
And the girls who try to look pretty
And if your train’s on time, you can get to work by nine
And start your slaving job to get your pay
If you ever get annoyed, look at me I’m self-employed
I love to work at nothing all day

And I be taking care of business (every day)
Taking care of business (every way)
I’ve been taking care of business (it’s all mine)
Taking care of business and working overtime, take care

Takin’ care of business, whoo
Takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business (every day)
Takin’ care of business (every way)
Takin’ care of business (it’s all mine)
Takin’ care of business and working overtime, whoo

Takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business
We be takin’ care of business
We be takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business
Takin’ care of business

(“Takin’ Care of Business“, Bachman Turner Overdrive)

Most artists have day jobs.

That is how it works.

Because the alternative is starvation.

If your belly is empty, you are not going to work at your best nor will you make excellent decisions.

Art doesn’t need to be made in discomfort.

There is zero shame in comfort, in paying your bills, in eating food and enjoying the shade that comes from a ceiling, which itself is underneath a roof.

You may even be likelier to make great art while comfortable, because you are not starving or drowning or despairing.

Yes, there is certainly a romance to the scrappy young artist, not kowtowing to The Man – but there is also a lot of power behind an artist who can afford some time and space and more than a packet of ramen upon which to subsist.

You can do both.

You can work a day job and continue to make art.

Great art.

Your art.

Risky, weird, wonderful art.

Above: Vincent van Gogh painting sunflowers (1888), Paul Gauguin

Now look at them yo-yos, that’s the way you do it
You play the guitar on the MTV
That ain’t workin’, that’s the way you do it
Money for nothin’ and your chicks for free

Now that ain’t workin’, that’s the way you do it
Lemme tell ya, them guys ain’t dumb
Maybe get a blister on your little finger
Maybe get a blister on your thumb

We got to install microwave ovens, custom kitchen deliveries
We got to move these refrigerators, we got to move these color TVs

See the little faggot with the earring and the make up
Yeah, buddy, that’s his own hair
That little faggot got his own jet airplane
That little faggot, he’s a millionaire

We got to install microwave ovens, custom kitchen deliveries
We got to move these refrigerators, we gotta move these color TVs

We got to install microwave ovens, custom kitchen deliveries
We got to move these refrigerators, we got to move these color TVs
Looky here, look out

I shoulda learned to play the guitar
I shoulda learned to play them drums
Look at that mama, she got it stickin’ in the camera man
We could have some

And he’s up there, what’s that?
Hawaiian noises?
Bangin’ on the bongos like a chimpanzee
That ain’t workin’, that’s the way you do it
Get your money for nothin’, get your chicks for free

We got to install microwave ovens, custom kitchen deliveries
We got to move these refrigerators, we gotta move these color TVs

Listen here
Now that ain’t workin’ that’s the way you do it
You play the guitar on the MTV
That ain’t workin’, that’s the way you do it
Money for nothin’ and your chicks for free
Money for nothin’, chicks for free
Get your money for nothin’ and your chicks for free
Ooh, money for nothin’, chicks for free
Money for nothin’, chicks for free (money, money, money)
Money for nothin’, chicks for free
Get your money for nothin’, get your chicks for free
Get your money for nothin’ and the chicks for free
Get your money for nothin’ and the chicks for free

Look at that, look at that
Get your money for nothin’ (I want my, I want my)
Chicks for free (I want my MTV)
Money for nothin’, chicks for free (I want my, I want my, I want my MTV)
Get your money for nothin’ (I want my, I want my)
And the chicks for free (I want my MTV)
Get your money for nothin’ (I want my, I want my)
And the chicks for free (I want my MTV)
Easy, easy money for nothin’ (I want my, I want my)
Easy, easy chicks for free (I want my MTV)
Easy, easy money for nothin’ (I want my, I want my)
Chicks for free (I want my MTV)
That ain’t workin’

Money for nothing, chicks for free
Money for nothing, chicks for free

(“Money For Nothing“, Dire Straits)

Art is enough of a risk as it is without you making it riskier.

Have the day job.

Don’t starve.”

(Gentle Writing Advice, Chuck Wendig)

“You are all set up as a writer now, so go ahead.

Resign.

In a week or two you will get an advance for your sample chapter that pays off the mortgage and buys you a holiday home in the south of France, right?

Take this job and shove it
I ain’t working here no more
My woman done left and took all the reason
I was working for
You better not try to stand in my way
As I’m a-walkin’ out the door
Take this job and shove it
I ain’t working here no more

I’ve been workin’ in this factory
For now on fifteen years
All this time I watched my woman
Drownin’ in a pool of tears
And I’ve seen a lot of good folk die
That had a lot of bills to pay
I’d give the shirt right offa’ my back
If I had the guts to say

Take this job and shove it
I ain’t working here no more
My woman done left and took all the reason
I was workin’ for
You better not try to stand in my way
As I’m a-walkin’ out the door
Take this job and shove it
I ain’t workin’ here no more

Well that foreman, he’s a regular dog
The line boss, he’s a fool
Got a brand new flattop haircut
Lord, he thinks he’s cool

One of these days I’m gonna’ blow my top
And that sucker, he’s gonna’ pay
Lord, I can’t wait to see their faces
When I get the nerve to say

Take this job and shove it
I ain’t working here no more
My woman done left and took all the reason
I was workin’ for
You better not try to stand in my way
As I’m a-walkin’ out the door
Take this job and shove it
I ain’t workin’ here no more

Take this job and shove it

(“Take This Job and Shove It“, Johnny Paycheck)

Wrong.

Firstly, an unknown writer won’t get an advance for a sample chapter.

How does the publisher know you can continue writing at that quality until the end of the book?

How do they know your rip-roaring story won’t fizzle out in a few chapters?

The best-case scenario would be an encouraging letter or email saying they like the sample and would be happy to look at the finished book when it is ready.

No commitment.

No money.

Months later, when you have finished the book and sent it to them, you will then have to wait weeks for a reply.

Sometimes months.

If they make an offer to publish, you still won’t see any of that advance until the contract is signed.

Even then you still won’t see any of that advance until the contract is signed.

Even then you will only receive a portion of it.

(The rest is reserved for when the book is published, probably 18 months later.)

So your payment might be as much as two years away.

That is if you are fortunate enough to get an offer from the first publisher you send it to.

Will that royalty advance change your life?

Enormous advances hit the headlines, so understandably that is what you think you will get.

But 99% of publishing deals do not involve huge sums of cash.

An average advance in the industry is unlikely to buy you a new sofa let alone a new house.

The dilution of the publishing world that followed the dramatic success of eBooks and the ease and affordability of digital self-publishing has resulted in even lower advances as publishers attempt to shield themselves from competition that seems to grow exponentially.

You will still be able to buy a sofa with your advance, but these days it is likely to be from the charity shop.

The cynical side of me would therefore say that the best way to make a living as a writer is to get another job (or keep the one you have already).

But it doesn’t have to be that way.

There has to be room for dreams and ambitions.

You write because you have the imagination and creativity to make something out of nothing.

If you have the power to perform such alchemy, the ability to monetize your output must be within your grasp.

Just don’t do anything to harm your original source of income until you have proven that not only can you replace it with cash derived from writing but that you can do so consistently.”

(How to Be a Writer, Stewart Ferris)

You may write for your own enjoyment or for the challenge of it, but it is not until your work is published – made public – that you can truly call yourself a writer.

Presumably you write in the hopes of making some money.

I work all night, I work all day to pay the bills I have to pay
Ain’t it sad?
And still there never seems to be a single penny left for me
That’s too bad
In my dreams I have a plan
If I got me a wealthy man
I wouldn’t have to work at all, I’d fool around and have a ball

Money, money, money
Must be funny
In the rich man’s world
Money, money, money
Always sunny
In the rich man’s world
Aha
All the things I could do
If I had a little money
It’s a rich man’s world
It’s a rich man’s world

A man like that is hard to find but I can’t get him off my mind
Ain’t it sad?
And if he happens to be free I bet he wouldn’t fancy me
That’s too bad
So I must leave, I’ll have to go
To Las Vegas or Monaco
And win a fortune in a game, my life will never be the same

Money, money, money
Must be funny
In the rich man’s world
Money, money, money
Always sunny
In the rich man’s world
Aha
All the things I could do
If I had a little money
It’s a rich man’s world

Money, money, money
Must be funny
In the rich man’s world
Money, money, money
Always sunny
In the rich man’s world
Aha
All the things I could do
If I had a little money
It’s a rich man’s world
It’s a rich man’s world

(“Money Money Money“, ABBA)

If, however, you have to begin by writing for publishers who can’t afford to pay you, you will still gain valuable experience, compile a clipping file and increase your confidence for more lucrative assignments to come.

“Everything in life has to start everywhere and that somewhere is always at the beginning.

Stephen King, Stephanie Meyer, Jeff Kinney, Nora Roberts – they all had to start at the beginning.

Above: Stephen King

It would be great to say becoming a writer is as easy as waving a magic wand over your manuscript and “Poof!” you’re published, but that is not how it happens.

Above: Stephenie Meyer

While there is no one true “key” to becoming successful, along well-paid writing career can happen when you combine four elements:

  • Good writing
  • Knowledge of writing markets
  • Professionalism
  • Persistence

Above: Jeff Kinney

Good writing is useless if you don’t know which markets will buy your work or how to pitch and sell your writing.

Above: Nora Roberts

If you are not professional and persistent in your contact with editors, your writing is just that:

Your writing.

But if you are a writer who embraces the above four elements, you have a good chance at becoming a paid published writer who will reap the benefits of a long and successful career.

As you become more involved with writing, you may read articles or talk to editors and authors with conflicting opinions about the right way to submit your work.

The truth is, there are many different routes a writer can follow to get published, but no matter which route you choose, the end is always the same:

Becoming a published writer.

DEVELOP YOUR İDEAS, THEN TARGET THE MARKETS.

Writers often think of an interesting story, complete the manuscript and then begin the search for a suitable publisher or magazine.

While this approach is common for fiction, poetry and screenwriting, it reduces your chances of success in many non-fiction writing areas.

Instead, choose categories that interest you and study those sections in Writer’s Market.

Select several listings you consider good prospects for your type of writing.

Sometimes the individual listings will even help you generate ideas.

Next, make a list of the potential markets for each idea.

Make the initial contact with markets using the method stated in the market listings.

If you exhaust your list of possibilities, don’t give up.

Instead, reevaluate the idea or try another angle.

Contınue developing ideas and approaching markets.

Identify and rank potential markets for an idea and continue the process.

As you submit to various publications, it is important to remember that every magazine is published with a particular audience and slant in mind.

Probably the number one complaint editors have is the submissions they receive are completely wrong for their maagazines or book line.

The first mark of professionalism is to know your market well.

Getting that knowledge starts with Writer’s Market (or The Canadian Writer’s Market – for Canadians, eh?), but you should also do your own detective work.

Search out back issues of the magazines or the backlist of the book publishers you wish to write for, pick up recent issues at your local newsstand or recently published titles at your local bookstore, or visit magazines’ and publisher websites – anything that will help you figure out what subjects specific magazines and book publishers publish.

This research is also helpful in learning what topics have been covered ad nauseum – the topics you should stay away from or try another angle.

Continue developing ideas and approaching markets.

Identify and rank potential markets for an idea and continue the process.

Paperback writer (paperback writer)

Dear Sir or Madam, will you read my book?
It took me years to write, will you take a look?
It’s based on a novel by a man named Lear
And I need a job
So I wanna be a paperback writer
Paperback writer

It’s a dirty story of a dirty man
And his clinging wife doesn’t understand
His son is working for the Daily Mail
It’s a steady job
But he wants to be a paperback writer
Paperback writer

Paperback writer (paperback writer)

It’s a thousand pages, give or take a few
I’ll be writing more in a week or two
I could make it longer if you like the style
I can change it ’round
And I wanna be a paperback writer
Paperback writer

If you really like it you can have the rights
It could make a million for you overnight
If you must return it you can send it here
But I need a break
And I wanna be a paperback writer
Paperback writer

Paperback writer (paperback writer)
Paperback writer (paperback writer)
Paperback writer (paperback writer)
Paperback writer (paperback writer)
Paperback writer (paperback writer)

(“Paperback Writer“, The Beatles)

Prepare for rejection and a lengthy wait.

When a submission is returned, check your file folder of potential markets for that idea.

Cross off the market that rejected the idea.

If the editor has given you suggestions or reasons why the manuscript was not accepted, you might want to incorporate these suggestions when revising your manuscript.

After revising your manuscript mail it to the next market on your list.

Take rejection with a grain of salt.

Rejection is a way of life in the publishing world.

It is inevitable in a business that deals with such an overwhelming number of applicants for such a limited number of positions.

Anyone who has published has lived through many rejections.

Writers with a thin skin are at a distinct disadvantage.

A rejection letter is not a personal attack.

It simply indicates your submission is not appropriate for that market.

Writers who let rejection dissuade them from pursuing their dreams or who react to an editor’s “No” with indignation or fury do themselves a disservice.

Writers who let rejection stop them do not get published.

Resign yourself to facing rejection now.

You will live through it.

You will eventually overcome it.”

(The Writer’s Market, Writer’s Digest Books)

In this proud land we grew up strong
We were wanted all along
I was taught to fight, taught to win
I never thought I could fail

No fight left or so it seems
I am a man whose dreams have all deserted
I’ve changed my face, I’ve changed my name
But no one wants you when you lose

Don’t give up
‘Cause you have friends
Don’t give up
You’re not beaten yet
Don’t give up
I know you can make it good

Though I saw it all around
Never thought I could be affected
Thought that we’d be last to go
It is so strange the way things turn

Drove the night toward my home
The place that I was born, on the lakeside
As daylight broke, I saw the earth
The trees had burned down to the ground

Don’t give up
You still have us
Don’t give up
We don’t need much of anything
Don’t give up
‘Cause somewhere there’s a place
Where we belong

Rest your head
You worry too much
It’s going to be alright
When times get rough
You can fall back on us
Don’t give up
Please don’t give up

Got to walk out of here
I can’t take anymore
Gonna stand on that bridge
Keep my eyes down below
Whatever may come
And whatever may go
That river’s flowing
That river’s flowing

Moved on to another town
Tried hard to settle down
For every job, so many men
So many men no-one needs

Don’t give up
‘Cause you have friends
Don’t give up
You’re not the only one
Don’t give up
No reason to be ashamed
Don’t give up
You still have us
Don’t give up now
We’re proud of who you are
Don’t give up
You know it’s never been easy
Don’t give up
‘Cause I believe there’s a place
There’s a place where we belong

(“Don’t Give Up“, Peter Gabriel)

“There is more to becoming a successful writer than mastering the rules of grammar and syntax and being gifted with the ability to put to paper an interesting string of words.

These are necessary prerequisites, to be sure.

But to join that elite group of published writers – which consists of only 4% of all those who write – one must have endurance, perseverance and marketing savvy.

Whatever you do, don’t give up.

Richard Bach had his classic, Jonathan Livingston Seagull, rejected 16 times.

Robert Pirsig’s Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance was turned down 121 times.

Dick Wimmer’s Irish Wine: 162 rejections

Jack Canfield and Mark Victor Hansen’s Chicken Soup for the Soul: 144 rejections

James Lee Burke, The Lost Get-Back Boogie: 111 rejections

Lisa Genova, Still Alice: 100 rejections

Kathryn Stockett, The Help: 60 rejections

Stephen King, Carrie: 30 rejections

John Grisham, A Time to Kill: 28 rejections

Frank Herbert, Dune: 23 rejections

Joseph Heller, Catch-22: 22 rejections

William Golding, Lord of the Flies: 21 rejections

Richard Hooker, M.A.S.H. : 21 rejections

James Joyce, Dubliners: 18 rejections

Bad news don’t ruin my appetite
Don’t let the papers tell me if it’s wrong or right
I just do what I do and I do it
Day by day by day by day by day

Live a life and I take it slow
Made mistakes but oh that’s the way it goes
I just know what I know it
Day by day by day by day by day

Day by day I’m feeling stronger
Day by day I’m lasting longer
Day by day you help me make my way

I speak up when I feel it’s right
I jump up when I know that I got to fight
Until then I just take it
Day by day by day by day by day

Day by day I’m feeling stronger
Day by day I’m lasting longer
Day by day you help me make my way

With you don’t worry ’bout it
With you don’t worry ’bout it
With you don’t worry ’bout it
Day by day by day by day by day

Sometimes they deny it and I
I feel strangely blue?
Sometimes they deny it and I
Like the evil I get from you

Day by day you show me a better way
Day by day you help me to find a place
Day by day you help me make it
Day by day by day by day by day

Day by day I’m feeling stronger
Day by day I’m lasting longer
Day by day you help me make it
Day by day by day by day by day

Day by day I’m feeling stronger
Day by day I’m lasting longer
Day by day you help me make it
Day by day by day by day by day

Day by day I’m feeling stronger
Day by day I’m lasting longer
Day by day you help me make my way

(“Day by Day“, Doug and the Slugs)

The point is clear.

If you have the talent and the passion for writing, don’t ever give up.

(Writing for Dollars, John McCollister / “The Most Rejected Books of All Time“, Emily Temple, https://lithub.com)

The professional writer is the amateur who didn’t quit.”

(Richard Bach)

Above: Richard Bach

Here are a few ideas for writing:

  • the feature article
  • the short story
  • creative non-fiction – memoir, biography, autobiography, historical events
  • travel writing
  • blogging
  • writing for children
  • the novel
  • stage plays
  • screenwriting
  • creative writing classes
  • literary festivals and conferences
  • contests and awards

You do not need to be a permanent member of the Penniless Parliament of Threadbare Poets.

The people have spoken.

Just a little more time is all we’re asking for
‘Cause just a little more time could open closing doors
Just a little uncertainty can bring you down

And nobody wants to know you now
And nobody wants to show you how

So if you’re lost and on your own
You can never surrender
And if your path won’t lead you home
You can never surrender

And when the night is cold and dark
You can see, you can see light
‘Cause no one can take away your right
To fight and to never surrender

With a little perseverance
You can get things done
Without the blind adherence
That has conquered some

And nobody wants to know you now
And nobody wants to show you how

So if you’re lost and on your own
You can never surrender
And if your path won’t lead you home
You can never surrender

And when the night is cold and dark
You can see, you can see light
‘Cause no one can take away your right
To fight and to never surrender
To never surrender

And when the night is cold and dark
You can see, you can see light
No one can take away your right
To fight and to never surrender
To never surrender

Oh, time is all we’re asking for
To never surrender
Oh, oh, you can never surrender

The time is all you’re asking for
Ooh, stand your ground, never surrender
Oh, I said
You never surrender, oh

(“Never Surrender“, Corey Hart)

Sources

  • Wikipedia
  • Google Photos
  • Takin’ Care of Business“, Bachman Turner Overdrive
  • Paperback Writer“, The Beatles
  • Suzanne“, Leonard Cohen
  • Day by Day“, Doug and the Slugs
  • Tomcat Prowl“, Doug and the Slugs
  • This City Never Sleeps“, Eurhymthics
  • How to Be a Writer, Stewart Ferris
  • Never Surrender“, Corey Hart
  • Get Started in Creative Writing, Stephen May
  • The Canadian Writer’s Market (McClelland and Stewart)
  • Writing for Dollars, John McCollister
  • Take This Job and Shove It“, Johnny Paycheck
  • Free Fallin’ “, Tom Petty
  • I Won’t Back Down“, Tom Petty
  • Dancin’ in the Dark“, Bruce Springsteen
  • The Most Rejected Books of All Time“, Emily Temple, lithub.com, 22 December 2017
  • Gentle Writing Advice, Chuck Wendig
  • Break My Stride“, Matthew Wilder
  • Writer’s Market (Writer’s Digest Books)

Middleton and other musings

Eskişehir, Türkiye

Thursday 18 April 2024

It will be difficult to please everyone in the audience because everyone has come for different reasons: some for the wit, some for the costumes, some for comedy, some for passion, and some to arrange a lascivious meeting.

But, despite this, I am confident that, as long as everyone can pay attention and understand the play, they will all be satisfactorily entertained.

(No Wit, No Help Like a Woman’s, Thomas Middleton)

Thomas Middleton (18 April 1580 – 1627) was an English Jacobean playwright and poet.

He, with John Fletcher (1579 – 1825) and Ben Jonson (1572 – 1637), was among the most successful and prolific of playwrights at work in the Jacobean period (1603 – 1625), and among the few to gain equal success in comedy and tragedy.

He was also a prolific writer of masques and pageants.

Above: Thomas Middleton

He was the son of a bricklayer, who had raised himself to the status of a gentleman and owned property adjoining the Curtain Theatre in Shoreditch.

Middleton was five when his father died and his mother’s subsequent remarriage dissolved into a 15-year battle over the inheritance of Thomas and his younger sister – an experience that informed him about the legal system and may have incited his repeated satire against the legal profession.

Middleton attended The Queen’s College, Oxford, matriculating in 1598, but he did not graduate.

Before he left Oxford sometime in 1601, he wrote and published three long poems in popular Elizabethan styles.

None of them appears to have been especially successful, and one, his book of satires, ran foul of an Anglican church ban on verse satire and was burned.

Nevertheless, his literary career was launched.

Above: The Queen’s College, Oxford, England

In the early 17th century, Middleton made a living writing topical pamphlets, including one – Penniless Parliament of Threadbare Poets – that was reprinted several times and became the subject of a parliamentary inquiry.

At the same time, records in the diary of Philip Henslowe (1550 – 1616) show that Middleton was writing for the Admiral’s Men.

Unlike Shakespeare, Middleton remained a free agent, able to write for whichever company hired him.

Above: Thomas Middleton

His early dramatic career was marked by controversy.

His friendship with Thomas Dekker (1572 – 1632) brought him into conflict with Ben Jonson and George Chapman (1559 – 1634) in the War of the Theatres.

(The War of the Theatres is the name commonly applied to a controversy from the later Elizabethan theatre.

Thomas Dekker termed it the Poetomachia.

Because of an actual ban on satire in prose and verse publications in 1599 (the Bishops’ Ban of 1599), the satirical urge had no other remaining outlet than the stage.

The resulting controversy, which unfolded between 1599 and 1602, involved the playwright Ben Jonson on one side and his rivals John Marston (1576 – 1634) and Thomas Dekker (with Thomas Middleton as an ancillary combatant) on the other.

The role Shakespeare (1564 – 1616) played in the conflict, if any, has long been a topic of dispute among scholars.)

The grudge against Jonson continued as late as 1626, when Jonson’s play The Staple of News indulges in a slur on Middleton’s great success, A Game at Chess (1624).

It has been argued that Middleton’s Inner Temple Masque (1619) sneers at Jonson (then absent in Scotland) as a “silenced bricklayer“.

Above: English playwright / poet Ben Jonson (1572 – 1637)

In 1603, Middleton married.

In the same year an outbreak of the plague forced the London theatres to close, while James I came to the English throne.

Above: James I of England / James VI of Scotland (1566 – 1625)

These events marked the beginning of Middleton’s greatest period as a playwright.

Having passed the time during the plague composing prose pamphlets (including a continuation of Thomas Nashe’s Pierce Penniless), he returned to drama with great energy, producing almost a score of plays for several companies and in several genres, notably city comedy and revenge tragedy.

Above: Woodcut of Thomas Nashe (1567 – 1601) in chains

He continued to collaborate with Dekker:

The two produced The Roaring Girl, a biography of the contemporary thief Mary Frith (1584 – 1659).

Above: Image of Mary Frith from title page of The Roaring Girl

In the 1610s, Middleton began a fruitful collaboration with the actor William Rowley, producing Wit at Several Weapons and A Fair Quarrel.

Working alone in 1613, Middleton produced a comic masterpiece:

 A Chaste Maid in Cheapside.

He also became increasingly involved with civic pageants.

In 1620 he became officially appointed as chronologist to the City of London, a post he held until his death in 1627, when it passed to Jonson.

Such official duties did not interrupt Middleton’s dramatic writing.

Above: Bank Junction, London

The 1620s saw the production of his and Rowley’s tragedy The Changeling, and of several tragicomedies.

In 1624, he reached a peak of notoriety when his dramatic allegory A Game at Chess was staged by the King’s Men.

The play used the conceit of a chess game to present and satirise the recent intrigues surrounding the Spanish Match.

Though Middleton’s approach was strongly patriotic, the Privy Council silenced the play after nine performances, having received a complaint from the Spanish Ambassador.

Middleton faced an unknown, probably frightening degree of punishment.

Since no play later than A Game at Chess is recorded, it has been suggested that the sentence included a ban on writing for the stage.

Middleton died at his home at Newington Butts in Southwark in 1627.

He was buried on 4 July in St Mary’s Churchyard. 

The old Church of St Mary’s was demolished in 1876 for road-widening.

Its replacement elsewhere in Kennington Park Road was destroyed in WW2, but rebuilt in 1958.

The old churchyard where Middleton was buried survives as a public park in Elephant and Castle.

Above: St Mary’s Churchyard, Newington Butts, Southwark, England

Middleton’s work has long been praised by literary critics, among them Algernon Charles Swinburne and T. S. Eliot.

Above: English writer Algernon C. Swinburne (1837 – 1909)

The latter thought Middleton was second only to Shakespeare.

Above: English writer Thomas Stearns Eliot (1888 – 1965)

Middleton’s plays were staged throughout the 20th century and into the 21st, each decade offering more productions than the last.

Even some less familiar works of his have been staged: 

A Fair Quarrel at the National Theatre, and The Old Law by the Royal Shakespeare Company. 

Above: The National Theatre, London

The Changeling has been adapted for film several times.

The tragedy Women Beware Women remains a stage favourite. 

The Revenger’s Tragedy was adapted for Alex Cox’s film Revengers Tragedy, the opening credits of which attribute the play’s authorship to Middleton.

Middleton wrote in many genres, including tragedy, history and city comedy.

His best-known plays are the tragedies The Changeling (with William Rowley) and Women Beware Women, and the cynically satirical city comedy A Chaste Maid in Cheapside.

Middleton’s work is diverse even by the standards of his age.

He did not have the kind of official relationship with a particular company that Shakespeare or Fletcher had. Instead he appears to have written on a freelance basis for any number of companies.

His output ranges from the “snarling” satire of Michaelmas Term (performed by the Children of Paul’s) to the bleak intrigues of The Revenger’s Tragedy (performed by the King’s Men).

His early work was informed by the flourishing of satire in the late Elizabethan period, while his maturity was influenced by the ascendancy of Fletcherian tragicomedy.

His later work, in which his satirical fury is tempered and broadened, includes three of his acknowledged masterpieces. A Chaste Maid in Cheapside, produced by the Lady Elizabeth’s Men, skilfully combines London life with an expansive view of the power of love to effect reconciliation. 

The Changeling, a late tragedy, returns Middleton to an Italianate setting like that of The Revenger’s Tragedy, except that here the central characters are more fully drawn and more compelling as individuals.

Similar development can be seen in Women Beware Women.

Middleton’s plays are marked by often amusingly presented cynicism about the human race.

True heroes are a rarity:

Almost every character is selfish, greedy and self-absorbed. 

A Chaste Maid in Cheapside offers a panoramic view of a London populated entirely by sinners, in which no social rank goes unsatirised.

In the tragedies Women Beware Women and The Revenger’s Tragedy, amoral Italian courtiers endlessly plot against each other, resulting in a climactic bloodbath.

When Middleton does portray good people, the characters have small roles and are shown as flawless.

A few descriptions and lines from Middleton’s plays capture my attention.

Falso calls his niece to him and woos her.

She is disgusted at the incest, and says that her heart is Fidelio’s anyway.

She would rather be a beggar than yield.

(The Phoenix, 1604)

(She preferred to be a beggar than to stop being true to herself.)

The Honest Whore begins with a funeral procession for the Duke of Milan’s daughter, Infelice.

The procession is attended by the Duke and several others.

Infelice’s former lover, Hippolito enters.

Extremely upset, he insists that Infelice is not truly dead and demands to see the body.

(I believe that as long as we remember someone that someone is never truly dead for us.)

His friend Matteo holds him back and tries to calm him down.

The procession exits, but the Duke, Hippolito and Matteo stay behind.

The Duke commends Matteo’s efforts to control Hippolito and exits.

Hippolito continues raging.

He swears that he will never love any other woman.

Matteo scoffs at his friend’s oath and predicts that Hippolito will forget about Infelice and visit a brothel within the next ten days.

Above: Milano, Italia

Fustigo has just returned from sea.

He is totally broke.

He sends a porter to fetch his sister, Viola, who has recently married Candido, a wealthy (and very patient) linen-draper.

Viola enters.

Fustigo begs her to give him some money.

Viola agrees to help him out on condition that he do a service for her in return.

She explains that, although she is generally satisfied in her marriage, her husband, Candido, is even-tempered to a fault.

Nothing can move him to anger.

Her greatest wish is to see her husband throw an explosive fit.

With this goal in mind, she instructs Fustigo to pose as a “wide-mouthed swaggerer” and attempt to annoy Candido by stealing things, kissing Viola, etc.

Fustigo agrees to go along with the plan.

But even the loss of millions would not make Candido angry.

Above: Colonne di San Lorenzo, Milano

(Some thoughts here, though they may seem to contradict one another:

It is rather praiseworthy that Candido has mastered himself to such an event that he does not get angry, does not take offence.

His Zen-like nature is quite admirable.

That being said, when it came to his relationship with his wife, I feel that his lack of reaction to his wife’s inappropriate behaviour was not the correct course of action.

I think it is important to stand up to your wife or partner as an equal without intimidating her or being intimidated by her.

Too many men, when faced with their wife’s anger, complaints or general unhappiness, simply submit, mumble an apology (It doesn’t matter if he is blameless.) and tiptoe away.

Sadly, there will always be a small remnant group of men who handle their differences with women through violence and intimidation.

The reader gets the sense that Viola would foolishly prefer the later response to the former response, but the later is abhorrent and the former too ambivalent.

The millions of men who adapt the first stance find that this rarely, if ever, leads to happiness.

Women with this kind of partner are not happy.

They actually become more dissatisfied, more complaining.

Often without even realizing why, the henpecking behaviour escalates – for a simple reason.

Deep down, women want to be met by someone strong.

They want to be debated with, not just agreed with.

They hunger for men who can take the initiative sometimes, make some decisions, tell them when they are not making sense.

It is no fun being the only adult in the house.

Above: Scene from Laws of Attraction

How can a woman relax or feel safe if the man she is teamed with is soft and weak?

Many strong, capable feminist women who finally find the sensitive, caring New Age man they thought they wanted now find themselves bored stiff.

Too many men know they are failing to satisfy the women in their life, have failed to keep their relationships together and don’t know what they have done wrong.

Men may learn to be receptive, but receptivity isn’t always enough to carry a partnership through troubled times.

Above: Scene from Bedazzled

In every relationship, something fierce is needed once in a while.

Both the man and the women need to have it.

But at the point when it was needed, though he was nurturing, something else was required.

A man may learn how to say to a woman:

I can feel your pain.

I consider your life as important as mine.

I will take care of you and comfort you.

But he also needs to say what he wants and stick by it.

Resolve of that kind is crucial.

Women are only human.

Sometimes they are dead right and sometimes completely wrong.

Women are neither devils nor saints.

They are normal, fallible human beings.

So a man with a woman needs to keep his head on straight.

You cannot just drift along and let them decide everything.

Marriage is not an excuse to stop thinking.

Not only can she be wrong or immature, perverse or prejudiced, competitive or bloody-minded (just like him), sometimes a man and a woman will just see things differently because you are different.

What is right for her may be wrong for him.

Women often don’t understand men.

(Viola clearly didn’t understand Candido.)

But how can women understand men unless men explain themselves to them?

This doesn’t mean that men and women cannot get along.

It only means that negotiations never end.

Steve Biddulph, Australia’s best-known therapist, has heard hundreds of women say in frustration:

My husband won’t fight with me.

He won’t even argue.

He just walks away.

Retreating may be all he knows how to do.

To have a happy marriage, a man has to be able to state his point of view, to debate, to leave aisde hysteria and push on with an argument until something is resolved.

Women need to give up their power in order to experience a really equal relationship, based on intimacy and negotiation, not on emotional dominance.

Both partners need to learn more respect for the other’s need for selfhood.

Couples need to fight in order to root out fixed attitudes or longer term misunderstndings and pull them into the light of day.

A good partnership is therapy, every living day.

Conscious fighting is a great help in relationships between men and women.

When a man and a woman are standing toe-to-toe arguing, what is it that the man wants?

Often he does not know.

He wants the conflict to end because he is afraid, because he doesn’t know how to fight, because he doesn’t believe in fighting, because his boundaries are so poorly maintained that every sword thrust penetrates to the very centre of his being.

It is a paradox that we can only let our feelings flow freely and only be truly passionate when we have certain boundaries laid down.

Trust has to be there.

Never be physical or threatening.

Never walk out mid-fight.

Don’t use put-down language.

Stay on point.

Listen to the other’s point of view while honouring your own.

Take time out, by agreement, if it becomes too heated – to think it over and return to continue the argument.

Above: Scene from Laws of Attraction

Biddulph tells a story of a marriage.

The very first time the wife “threw a fit” (her words) and began to be wildly abusive, the man simply walked quietly to his room and began packing his things.

He refused to fight “dirty” as was being expected.

His words are beautiful:

I know I am supposed to act like a man now and shout and hit you, but I am not that sort of man.

I will not allow anyone to talk to me in the way you have.

I am leaving.

The woman was so shocked she apologized.

They are still together.

It is important to point out that if the woman in the story had been making a point, asking for a change, then the man needed to stay put and listen, but this was quite different.

She was “having a fit“.

Men and woman both have a capacity for blind rage, which achieves nothing.

Arising out of centuries of two-way, intergender abuse, there is an archetypal core of rage in us which, if we take it into our relationships, destroys all love and feeling.

I’ve had it with men!“, says she.

Women! Can’t live with ’em, can’t live without ’em!“, he cries.

All men hate all women some of the time.

All women hate all men some of the time.

There is a long history of man-bashing by women and woman-bashing by men.

But this isn’t a personal thing and shouldn’t be brought into personal affairs.

Above: Scene from War of the Roses

We must fight, debate and be true to ourselves.

Otherwise our closeness is just an act.

But in fighting, we must show great restraint and always have respect.

Romance is all “Yes!” and heavy breathing.

Marriage is a relationship of trust that is steeped in the primal ambivalence of love and hate.

A third observation I have here is that I wonder if what Viola was searching for was not necessarily anger but rather passion.

Viola wants passion and purpose in Candido.

She carries a weighty desire in her, a passion somewhere between erotic feeling and religious fanaticism.)

Bellafront (the titular “honest whore“) is sitting in front of a mirror as she prepares her make-up.

(Isn’t make-up by its very purpose dishonest?

There is virtually no difference between an unmade-up bald naked woman and an unmade-up bald naked man, except their reporductive organs.

Any other difference between them is artifically produced.

A woman is the author of her own transformation and produces feminity by means of cosmetics, hairstyle and clothes.

This femininity, synthetic in origin, consists of two different components:

Emphasis on secondary sexual characteristics, to make her desirable.

Distancing herself by means of masks, to make her mysterious.

She deliberately keeps men in a state of constant bewilderment.

Woman regards her natural self merely as the raw materal of a woman, as if the raw material is of less value than the mask that conceals it.

It is not the raw material but the end result that has to be judged.

They have the odd idea that unmade-up, without curls and bracelets and necklaces that a woman is not really present.

Amusing themselves with their own bodies has become an end in itself.

For women’s demands on themselves are enormous.

Men have wisely, millennia ago, dropped out of the game.

Every man knows that he himself does not give a damn if a woman wears three colours of eye shadow or one or none, just as he knows he has no need for lace curtains or plants in the living room.

Women are so preoccupied with self and with beautification that men have come to the conclusion that, even if women paid any attention to them at all, they would never be considered handsome.

But men are not driven to wear a mask to pretend a beauty they neither possess nor feel.

What every man of maturity realizes is that woman are only fooling themselves.

If women spent as much time developing their intelligence and character as they do maintaining a mask of beauty than they may truly feel the equality they so desperately claim to crave.)

Hippolito tells her that, if she were his mistress, he would not permit her to carry on with so many different men.

Bellafront sighs longingly and tells Hippolito that it is her dream to be true to a single man.

Hippolito scoffs at this pronouncement and accuses Bellafront of lying to lure him into her web.

He is certain that, if he were to take up with her, she would certainly deceive him, just as all prostitutes always deceive their patrons.

Bellafront swears that she is an “honest whore“.

Claiming that there could never be such a thing, Hippolito offers to “teach” Bellafront “how to loathe” herself.

He proceeds to deliver a long, nasty speech on the sordidness of prostitution.

Bellafront weeps to hear his harsh words, but begs him to continue.

Hippolito continues a little further and exits, even though Bellafront begs him to stay.

Bellafront agonizes over her unrequited love for Hippolito.

She notices that he has left his sword behind, grabs it and prepares to stab herself, but stops when Hippolito re-enters and calls her a “madwoman“.

Hysterical, she begs him to love her or kill her.

Hippolito takes his sword from her and exits without saying another word.

Above: Scene from Wyatt Earp

(In a way, there is a kind of honesty in prostitution.

Every method of manipulation is based on the carrot-and-stick principle.

A man would be above bribery altogether were it not for one basic male need which has to be satisfied.

The need for physical contact.

This need is so strong.

Its fulfillment gives men such intense pleasure.

A man could, of course, condition his sexual needs, but instead of learning to suppress his needs, a man will allow them to be encouraged whenever possible.

Men never dress in such a way as to awaken sexual desire in a woman, but this is very much the contrary with women.

From the moment a girl becomes a woman, she disguises herself as bait.

She offers herself, at a price.

His total subjection to her.

It would be more economical and efficient for a man to satisfy his libido with a prostitute than rushing into marriage, so it is ironic that men consider ordinary prostitutes so very contemptible.

Prostitutes are among the few women who frankly admit that they make money by renting their bodies.

But no man would allow a prostitute to exploit him beyond the bartering of cash for momentary gratification.

Women despise the common prostitute for her stupidity.

A woman who sells her body so ineptly is shockingly stupid by female intelligence standards.

A man with strong sexual needs must be more obedient to women than others.

A woman profits from her body, while a man is slave to his.

The knack of being a good lover is to persist in the chase, without being a pest.

As tenderness, skill and intensity of touch set her alight, he can abandon himself more and more to his passion, cathcing up with her in joyous abandon.

Lovemaking and courtship takes confidence.

Between first meeting a woman and getting where you want to be, there are many chances of rejection, but if you pass the initiation stage, if you view your own sexuality as sacred and are proud of your own gender, then you come to the woman with fascination and respect, but on equal terms.

You respect and desire her but you respect yourself too.

It takes the desperation out of it.

I am just a poor boy
Though my story’s seldom told
I have squandered my resistance
For a pocketful of mumbles
Such are promises
All lies and jest
Still a man hears what he wants to hear
And disregards the rest

When I left my home and my family
I was no more than a boy
In the company of strangers
In the quiet of the railway station
Running scared
Laying low, seeking out the poorer quarters
Where the ragged people go
Looking for the places only they would know

Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie
Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie, lie-lie-lie-lie-lie

Asking only workman’s wages, I come looking for a job
But I get no offers
Just a come-on from the whores on 7th Avenue
I do declare, there were times when I was so lonesome
I took some comfort there, la-la-la-la-la-la-la

Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie
Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie, lie-lie-lie-lie-lie

Then I’m laying out my winter clothes
And wishing I was gone, going home
Where the New York City winters aren’t bleeding me
Leading me, going home

In the clearing stands a boxer
And a fighter by his trade
And he carries the reminders
Of every glove that laid him down
Or cut him till he cried out
In his anger and his shame
I am leaving, I am leaving
But the fighter still remains

Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie
Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie, lie-lie-lie-lie-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie
Lie-la-lie
Lie-la-lie-lie-lie-lie-lie, lie-lie-lie-lie-lie”

Most contemporary men get together with a woman first and then grow up second.

We fall in love mostly by good luck.

It just happens.

Sadly, maintaining love is often left to luck too.

But love is a craft which takes practice.

Eventually, then, many men and women lose the spark.

They fall out of love.

The man usually denies this to himself and is happy enough as long as his partner stays sexually available, a kind of sedating, sex-as-a-reward-at-the-end-of- the-day.

Sex compensates for his life of quiet desperation.

Mouths to feed, mortgage to pay, the soul-numbing routine of work.

I wake up every mornin’
I stumble out of bed
Stretchin’ and yawnin’
Another day ahead
It seems to last forever
And time goes slowly by
‘Til babe and me’s together
Then it starts to fly

‘Cos the moment that he’s with me
Time can take a flight
The moment that he’s with me
Everything’s alright
Night time is the right time
We make love
Then it’s his and my time
We take off

My baby takes the morning train
He works from nine till five and then
He takes another home again
To find me waitin’ for him

He takes me to a movie
Or to a restaurant, to go
Slow dancing
Anything I want
Only when he’s with me
I catch a light
Only when he gives me
Makes me feel alright

My baby takes the morning train
He works from nine till five and then
He takes another home again
To find me waitin’ for him

All day I think of him
Dreamin’ of him constantly
I’m crazy mad for him
And he’s crazy mad for me
(Crazy mad for me)
When he steps off that train
I’m makin’ a fool, a fight
Work all day to earn his pay
So we can play all night

My baby takes the morning train
He works from nine till five and then
He takes another home again
To find me waitin’ for him

He’s always on that morning train
(He works from nine till five and then)
He works so hard
(He takes another home again)
To find me waiting for him
(My baby takes the morning train)

Very often though, today’s woman tires of routine sex.

The very thing that makes him a good husband – his devotion to being a stable provider – wears out his spirit and mkaes him boring.

Finding little reward in their boring live or their sex life, she starts to cool down.

She exerts her perfect right not make love.

The man sulks, suffers, grouches and schemes, to no avail.

This long dark night is the result of a totally mistaken belief that he cannot live without a woman’s love.

But for the man who makes it through the long dark night, the rewards are great.

Comfortable in his solitude, he approaches women as equals.

The irony is that when you can “take it or leave it“, when love and affection are no longer a matter of life and death, then you are finally receptive.

Not needing sex makes you much more attractive.

Bellafront realizes that she wants a man’s constant companionship.

In this regard, she truly is honest.)

In A Trick to Catch the Old One, Theodorus Witgood, a ruined gentleman, enters and tells how, after foolishly wasting away all his money on brothels and drunkenness in the city, he has lost all of his lands to his uncle, Pecunius Lucre a usurer.

According to Witgood, Lucre’s motto is:

He that doth his youth expose

To brothel, drink and danger

Let him that is nearest kin

Cheat before a stranger.”

Witgood says that he must now find some way to make a living for himself, and hints that he may not be averse to activities “out of the compass of the law” (i.e., illegal).

Witgood’s courtesan (kept lady) enters.

Witgood scolds her for being the cause of his ruin.

The Courtesan replies that the ‘jewel’ she gave him — her virginity — was worth much more than all the lands he has lost.

(Here is where I marvel at the mess mankind has made of sexuality.

Why in Heaven’s name does a woman possess more erogenous zones than a man and yet deny herself the liberty of their enjoyment?

How can it be psychologically healthy to possess such innate desires and yet suppress those desires for the sake of potential profit later?

Certainly, I have to admit there is a sort of reckless courage that a woman possesses in deliberately stoking the fires of men’s desires for physical contact with her.

As well, we live in an age where the use of contraceptives can prevent unwanted pregnancy and minimize the risks of contamination, so a cautious woman can be sexually active without the same intensity of worry that previous generations had.

But the unaccountable stigma that is cast upon a woman if she is too promiscuous must, in my opinion, be a source of frustration for some.

As for the jewel of virginity, ideally she should have as her first lover a person that reciprocates the desire, passion and intensity of feeling that she has.

I think what bothers me is the idea of her sex viewed as a jewel, a bartering of her body.

Certainly, she decides the bedroom fun, but if her goal is a devoted exclusive relationship, she may have to kiss a lot of frogs before she finds her prince.)

Witgood lays out a plan to get his lands back from his uncle.

The plan involves going to London (where his uncle is now located) and passing the Courtesan off as a wealthy widow whom Witgood intends to marry.

The Courtesan agrees to the plan.

Above: London, as seen from Primrose Hill

Joyce might marry Sam Freedom (Lucre’s wife’s son from another marriage), however, the match has not yet been confirmed.

Joyce has two suitors:

Sam, a rich idiot, and Moneylove, an impoverished scholar.

Joyce is currently in London, where she is learning how to become a gentlewoman so that she can catch a wealthy husband.

(Notice the calculating nature of all this.

Joyce is interested in her self development so she can catch a wealthy husband.

In fairness, the horizons of a woman in 1608 were quite different than they are for an Englishwoman of 2024.

But I find myself asking the question:

What makes a woman worthy of a man?

It has been said that a woman merely has to be to get a man, while a man has to become to be considered worthy of a woman.

But is it wrong to desire a woman who is a man’s equal counterpart in strength, intelligence and imagination?

To have a life partner who contributes to the family’s future in a job she wants to do rather than at a job she has to do, because she has yet to find a male sponsor?

Joyce may have lacked the opportunities to explore her potential, but what is modern woman’s excuse?

There is no primary difference in intelligence between the sexes.

It is in the decisions made to develop or let disintegrate one’s intelligence that makes differences between people.

I also find myself wondering how many modern women are like Joyce using her self-development, whether in the world of academia or in the business world, in order to simply find a life partner.

I think part of the problem with academia is that we confuse the memorization of knowledge for the true acquisition of wisdom.

There seems to be an unwritten myth that a woman rarely needs to win through her industry, ambition or perseverance, but simply through an attractive appearance.

Beauty can sleep while waiting for her prince to rouse her.)

You look like
A perfect fit
For a girl in need
Of a tourniquet

But can you save me?
Why don’t you save me?
If you could save me

From the ranks of the freaks that suspect
They could never love anyone

‘Cause I can tell
You know what it’s like
A long farewell
Of a hunger strike

But can you save me?
Come on and save me
If you could save me

From the ranks of the freaks that suspect
They could never love anyone

You struck me dumb
Like radium
Like Peter Pan or Superman
You will come

To save me
Why don’t you save me?
If you could save me

From the ranks of the freaks who suspect
They could never love anyone
Except the freaks that suspect
They could never love anyone
But the freaks that suspect
They could never love anyone

Come on and save me
Why don’t you save me?
If you could save me

From the ranks of the freaks that suspect
They could never love anyone
Except the freaks who suspect
They could never love anyone
Except the freaks
Who could never love anyone

Witgood tells his friend Host (an innkeeper) that he is about to marry a wealthy widow whom he plans to take to London so that she can be introduced to his uncle (the ‘widow‘ is actually Witgood’s courtesan).

He asks the Host to pose as the ‘widow’s‘ servingman while they are in London.

This favour is necessary,

Witgood claims, because when she ran away with him, the ‘widow’ abandoned all of her servants.

To convince his uncle of her wealth, appearances have to be maintained.

The Host knows that Witgood intends to trick his uncle, but he does not know that the ‘widow’ is, in fact, Witgood’s courtesan.

(“Appearances have to be maintained.”

But what lies beneath the appearances?)

Witgood and the Host arrive in London.

The Host assures Witgood that the ‘widow’ has been provided with good lodgings.

Dampit and Gulf (two usurers) enter.

Witgood tells the Host that Dampit is “the most notorious usurering, blasphemous, atheistical, brothel-vomiting rascal that we have in these latter times.”

(Shakespeare’s insults are good, but Middleton’s may be better.)

Above: Scene from Full Metal Jacket

He also says that, although Dampit dresses like a beggar, he is, in fact, very rich — he earned all his money with the Devil’s help, by cheating and trampling the law.

As much as Dampit is a reprehensible scoundrel I cannot admire, I see wisdom in his choice of attire.

(José Alberto “Pepe” Mujica Cordano (born 20 May 1935) is a Uruguayan politician, former revolutionary and farmer who served as the 40th President of Uruguay from 2010 to 2015.

A former guerrilla with the Tupamaros, he was tortured and imprisoned for 14 years during the military dictatorship in the 1970s and 1980s.

A member of the Broad Front coalition of left-wing parties, Mujica was Minister of Livestock, Agriculture, and Fisheries from 2005 to 2008 and a Senator afterwards.

As the candidate of the Broad Front, he won the 2009 presidential election and took office as President on 1 March 2010.

Mujica has been described as “the world’s humblest head of state” due to his austere lifestyle and his donation of around 90% of his $12,000 monthly salary to charities that benefit poor people and small entrepreneurs. 

An outspoken critic of capitalism’s focus on stockpiling material possessions which do not contribute to human happiness, he has been praised by the media and journalists for his philosophical ideologies.

The Times Higher Education referred to him as the “philosopher president” in 2015, a play on words of Plato’s conception of the philosopher king.)

Above: José Alberto “Pepe” Mujica Cordano

I grant you that Dampit is in no way the kind of idealist that Cordano is.

But there is wisdom in not displaying your wealth ostentatiously.

For bling and bounty only create envy and greed in others.

Also the reason that many rich folks have gotten rich and have remained rich is that they are rarely generous with the blessings that good fortune has given them.

In my own travels I have also been impressed by the selfless generosity of those who have littie left to give and yet do so without hesitation nor expectation of reward.

They help others simply because they are compelled to.

Above: The widow with two mites

I am also reminded of the legendary tales of King Arthur and F. W. Woolworth.

If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.” 

(Rudyard Kipling)

Above: English writer Rudyard Kipling (1865 – 1936)

One of the best known stories in English history is that of King Alfred and the cakes.

Children are taught the story where Alfred is on the run from the Vikings, taking refuge in the home of a peasant woman.

She asks him to watch her cakes – small loaves of bread – baking by the fire, but distracted by his problems, he lets the cakes burn and is roundly scolded by the woman.

Would he have been so roundly scolded had the peasant woman seen Alfred as King?

Above: King Alfred and the cakes

There is the legend of Woolworth visiting his stores disguised as a customer to gauge how customers were being served and then returned as himself to give feedback on the customer service he received (or didn’t receive).

Clearly, he understood that he would be treated quite differently had it been known who he really was.

Above: Frank Winfield Woolworth (1852 – 1919)

I want to be judged by the size of my manners and not by the size of my wallet or bank account.)

Above: Scene from Star Wars: Attack of the Clones

(Dex: These Kamino keep to themselves. They’re cloners. Damn good ones.

Obi-Wan: Are they friendly?

Dex: It depends.

Obi-Wan: Depends on what, Dex?

Dex: On how good your manners are and how big your pocketbook is.)

Dampit greets Witgood and rhapsodises about his rise to wealth, repeatedly referring himself as “a great trampler of time“:

Thus was poor Harry Dampit made rich by others’ laziness, who, though they would not follow their own suits, I made ’em follow me with their purses.”

I won’t reveal any more of the story here.

Above: Ebenezer Scrooge

In A Mad World, My Masters, Richard Follywit enters with his cohorts, Mawworm (intestinal worm), Hoboy, and other hangers-on.

He jokes with his companions about their wild ways and sarcastically repents and says he is now a man who “swears without number, gulls (to cheat) without mercy and drinks without measure“.

He tells his cohorts of a plan he has hatched to get some more money:

His grandfather, Sir Bounteous Progress (a rich old knight) has left him everything in his will, but refuses to give him as much as £10 while he is still alive.

Despite his frugality concerning Follywit, Bounteous loves to entertain noble guests with extravagant feasts.

Follywit therefore plans to disguise himself as a great lord so that he can capitalize on his grandfather’s hospitality.

As Follywit and companions exit, Penitent Brothel, a country gentleman, enters.

Penitent remarks on Follywit’s reputation as a wild prankster, but notes that he is not so much better because he is subject to “wild passions and deadly follies himself“:

He is in love with Mistress Hairbrain, who is extremely difficult to get to because she is kept under strict guard by her obsessively jealous husband, Mr. Hairbrain.

In order to get to Mistress Hairbrain, Penitent says he has contracted the services of ‘The Courtesan‘, a prostitute who poses as Mistress Hairbrain’s friend and moral instructor but is in fact working to corrupt her.

The Courtesan enters and tells Penitent that Mistress Hairbrain’s corruption is going very well.

The only problem is Mr. Hairbrain, whose excessive jealously is likely to make the project very difficult.

Penitent frets, but the Courtesan tells him not to worry:

She won’t take any money unless the project is a success.

Penitent praises the Courtesan’s business ethic and exits.

The Courtesan’s mother brings the Courtesan a token from Sir Bounteous Progress (the Courtesan is Sir Bounteous Progress’ mistress).

Luxuriating in the subtlety of her own craftiness, the Mother tells how she has prostituted the Courtesan 15 times in order to save up enough money for a good marriage dowry.

She tells the Courtesan it is all worthwhile if, by sinning, she can secure a good name for herself:

Who gets the opinion of a virtuous name

May sin at pleasure and never think of shame.”

The Courtesan exits.

(Consider this:

The Courtesan suggests that losing one’s virtue is OK if it secures a good name for yourself.

As in the end justifies the means.

How is Follywit any different than the Courtesan?

They both do want ever they want to achieve their aims and both are unshamed of doing so.)

Receptionist: How do you write women so well?

Melvin Udall: I think of a man. And I take away reason and accountability.

Inesse and Possibility enter.

They are the eldest brothers from two different families:

The former holds his lands “in esse” (in actual possession) and the latter holds his lands “in posse” (in anticipated possession) — either of these men could be a prime source of revenue for the Courtesan.

Inesse and Possibility ask the Mother where the Courtesan is;

The Mother tells them she is studying the Bible.

They ask if they can see her.

The Mother says she will only grant permission after they have sworn to refrain from using coarse language.

(Even Trump sells Bibles.)

Obsessing over the possibility that his wife might cheat on him, Harebrain hires two watchmen to guard his house, telling them that he has heard a rumour that he might be robbed.

In an aside, he reveals that the ‘jewel’ he really intends to guard is his wife.

The Courtesan enters (posing, as Mistress Hairbrain’s friend and moral instructor).

Hairbrain tells her that he is very worried about his wife’s chastity and mentions that he has taken away all of her erotic literature (which includes Shakespeare’s narrative poem, Venus and Adonis).

He asks the Courtesan to read some religious literature to Mistress Hairbrain:

There’s a good chapter on Hell that will terrify her in this cold weather.

So read to her the horrible punishments for itching wantonness.”

The Courtesan exits.

(Literature is moral or immoral depending upon whether thoughts turn to deeds.)

Talking to himself, Hairbrain says that, with the help of the Courtesan, he will keep his wife honest, only performing sexual favors for her husband.

(He regards sex as the payment she owes him for room and board.)

(He will provide for her if she will provide for him?

Sounds more like business than love?)

Mistress Hairbrain and the Courtesan enter.

The Courtesan instructs Mistress Hairbrain in the art of appearing chaste and avoiding any traps her husband might set for her.

Mistress Hairbrain gives the Courtesan a jewel to present to Penitent Brothel as a promise of her love, which she says she will demonstrate as soon as she manages to escape from her husband’s strict guard.

When Hairbrain joins them, the Courtesan tells him that Mistress Hairbrain believes that every sin is damnable — an opinion that the Courtesan has been trying to refute.

Hairbrain laughs at his wife’s alleged moral strictness.

He says that sins such as usury, bribery, sloth, pride and gluttony are permissible — the only truly damnable sin is adultery.

When the Courtesan exits, Hairbrain orders his wife to follow her instructor’s advice faithfully.

Above: An allegorical image depicting the human heart subject to the seven deadly sins, each represented by an animal (clockwise: toad = avarice; snake = envy; lion = wrath; snail = sloth; pig = gluttony; goat = lust; peacock = pride), Taolenn de François-Marie Balanant, 2010

(Is it only sinful if we deem it so?)

I must confess I find a sad sameness to the entire body of Middleton’s work.

Almost every character is greedy, selfish and self-absorbed like characters in a never-ending soap opera.

Middleton’s cynicism is as palpable as a cold puddle splashed from a passing car onto a well-groomed pedestrian.

I have read what I could through Google on this day, but despite my best efforts I could not find an open manuscript of Middleton’s Penniless Parliament of Threadbare Poets, but the title has triggered ideas I wish to share in my next post….

Though the stage is lit, the theatre is shadows.

Though daylight shines through my windows, reading Middleton I feel that I am in the middle of a long dark night.

My mind, that everpresent jukebox, finds Middleton making me think of Leonard Cohen:

Like a bird on the wire
Like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free
Like a worm on a hook
Like a knight from some old fashioned book
I have saved all my ribbons for thee

If I, if I have been unkind
I hope that you can just let it go by
If I, if I have been untrue
I hope you know it was never to you

Oh, like a baby, stillborn
Like a beast with his horn
I have torn everyone who reached out for me
But I swear by this song
And by all that I have done wrong
I will make it all up to thee

I saw a beggar leaning on his wooden crutch
He said to me
, “You must not ask for so much.”
And a pretty woman leaning in her darkened door
She cried to me
, “Hey, why not ask for more?

Oh, like a bird on the wire
Like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free

Sources

  • Wikipedia
  • Google Photos
  • Manhood, Steve Biddulph
  • Bird on the Wire“, Leonard Cohen
  • 9 to 5 / Morning Train“, Sheena Easton
  • Save Me“, Aimee Mann
  • The Phoenix, Thomas Middleton
  • The Honest Whore, Thomas Middleton
  • A Trick to Catch the Old One, Thomas Middleton
  • A Mad World, My Masters, Thomas Middleton
  • No Wit, No Help Like a Woman, Thomas Middleton
  • The Boxer“, Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel
  • The Manipulated Man, Esther Vilar

The Ministry of Story

Barlinnie Prison, Glasgow, Scotland

17 April 1976

I thought of the beautiful cool evening, how I long to be walking in it outside this cell.

All of this took place while I sat in the semi-dark reading a book.

The thoughts on freedom were only momentary but so powerful that they seem to tear my soul apart.

There is something about being alone in a cell, about the inability to rise from a chair, open a door and speak to someone.

I would like to get up this minute and discuss this subject with someone.

I would like to put these feelings into a piece of sculpture and although sitting typing out the feelings is important there is a tremendous amount of strain and frustration attached to it.

During these periods I find it hard to read a book or watch TV, which I hardly do anyway.

The only solution is to tackle the mood and try to do something about it.

(Jimmy Boyle)

Above: Jimmy Boyle, Barlinnie Prison, Glasgow, Scotland

Eskişehir, Türkiye

Wednesday 17 April 2024

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Türkiye

Jimmy Boyle is a Scottish former gangster and convicted murderer who became a sculptor and novelist after his release from prison.

In 1967, Boyle (23) was sentenced to life imprisonment for the murder of another gangland figure, William “Babs” Rooney.

He served 14 years before his release in 1980. 

Boyle has always denied killing Rooney, but has acknowledged having been a violent and sometimes ruthless moneylender from the Gorbals, one of the roughest and most deprived areas of Glasgow.

During his incarceration in the special unit of Barlinnie Prison, he turned to art, with the help of the special unit’s art therapist, Joyce Laing.

Above: Jimmy Boyle

He wrote an autobiography, A Sense of Freedom (1977), which was later turned into a film of the same name. 

In 1980, while still in prison, Boyle married psychiatrist Sara Trevelyan.

In 2017, Trevelyan wrote Freedom Found, a book about her 20-year marriage to Boyle.

In an interview after her book’s publication, she stated that she had never felt unsafe with him. 

Upon his release from prison on 26 October 1981, he moved to Edinburgh to continue his artistic career.

He designed the largest concrete sculpture in Europe called “Gulliver” for the Craigmillar Festival Society in 1976.

Above: “Gulliver“, Edinburgh, Scotland

In 1983, Boyle set up the Gateway Exchange with Trevelyan and artist Evlynn Smith:

A charitable organisation offering art therapy workshops to recovering drug addicts and ex-convicts.

Though the project secured funding from private sources (including actor Sean Connery, comedian Billy Connolly and John Paul Getty), it lasted only a few years.

In 1994, his son James, a drug addict, was murdered in the Oatlands neighbourhood of Glasgow.

Boyle has published Pain of Confinement: Prison Diaries (1984) and a novel, Hero of the Underworld (1999).

The latter was adapted for a French film, La Rage et le Rêve des Condamnés (The Anger and Dreams of the Condemned), which won the best documentary prize at the Fifa Montréal awards in 2002.

He also wrote a novel, A Stolen Smile, which is about the theft of the Mona Lisa and how it ends up hidden on a Scottish housing scheme.

Clearly our Jimmy has led an interesting life, but is his life an interesting story?

Above: Jimmy Boyle

From the cursory bio that Wikipedia provides it seems that Jimmy never studied literature at some fancy university.

That being said, he is a published diarist and novelist.

He somehow had to learn how to write.

A person can learn how to write, because I am still learning.

Jimmy wasn’t doomed to be just an ex con.

He learned craft, things that worked for him, that he could understand and use right away.

Craft can be taught and with diligence and practice, I, you, everybody, can improve our writing.

To break through with this thing called craft, you will need to be your own disciplinarian.

James Scott Bell recommends what it takes to learn:

  1. Get motivated.

Write a statement of purpose, one that gets you excited.

Today I resolve to take writing seriously, to keep going and never stop, to learn everything I can and make it as a writer.

Put it on your wall where you can see it every day.

Come up with your own item of visual motivation.

(During my first Christmas here in Eskişehir our staff “Christmas” party had a Secret Santa arrangement where we would receive a gift from someone anonymously and give one in return to someone else anonymously.

Through the wonders of Photoshop, a colleague created a montage of me standing with Charles Dickens in front of the Canadian Parliament Buildings in Ottawa beneath the caption “A Tale of Two Legends“.

That my colleague felt that I could be (one day) comparable to Dickens remains a great motivation for me.)

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Go to bookstores and browse.

Look at the author’s pictures and bios.

Read their openings.

And think:

I can do this!

Find some ritual that gets your creative juices flowing.

Don’t waste it.

Turn it into words on a page.

2. Try stuff.

Try out what you learn, see if you get it and try some more.

Take the time to digest what you learn and then apply what you learn to your own writing.

3. Stay loose.

Write freely and rollickingly.

4. First get it written, then get it right.

Let the world burn through you.

Throw the prism light, white hot, on paper.”

(Zen in the Art of Writing, Ray Bradbury)

5. Set a quota.

Writing is how you learn to write.

Writing daily, as a discipline, is the best way to learn.

Most successful writers make a word goal and stick to it.

The daily writing of words, once it becomes a habit, will be the most fruitful discipline of your writing life.

You will be amazed at how productive you will become and how much you will learn about the craft.

I only write when I am inspired.

I make sure I am inspired every morning at 9 a.m.

(Peter DeVries)

Above: American writer Peter De Vries (1910 – 1993)

6. Don’t give up.

The main difference between successful writers and unsuccessful writers is persistence.

There are legions of published novelists who went years and years without acceptance.

They continued to write because that is what they were inside:

Writers.

KEEP WRITING.

When first we mean to build, we first survey the plot, then draw the model.”

(Henry IV, Part 2, William Shakespeare)

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Plot happens.

But does it work?

Does it connect with readers?

What is this story about?

Is anything happening?

Why should you keep reaading?

Why should you care?

The what happens is your plot.

When you get right down to it, there is something uniquely satisfying in being gripped by a great plot, in begrudgiıng whatever real world obligations might prevent you from finding out what happens next.

It is especially satisfying to surrender to an author who is utterly in command of a thrilling and original story, an author capable of playing us like fish, of letting us get worried, then riled up, then complacent and then finally blowing us away when the final shocks are delivered.

While glorious prose is a fine thing, without an enthralling story, it is just so much verbal tapioca.

What the reader seeks is an experience that is other.

Other than what he normally sees each day.

Story is how he gets there.

A good story transports the reader to a new place via experience.

Not through arguments or facts, but through the illusion that life is taking place on the page.

Not the reader’s life.

Someone else’s.

Your characters’ lives.

An author creates a dream.

When we dream, we experience that as reality.

In reality there is one reason, and one reason only, that readers get excited about a novel:

Great storytelling.

Can creative writing be taught?

No.

Can the love of language be taught?

No.

Can a gift for stroytelling be taught?

No.

But….

Like most writers, you learn to write by writing and by reading books.

Writers learn by reading the work of their predecessors and counterparts.

They study meter with Ovid, plot construction with Homer, comedy with Aristophanes.

Above: Roman poet Ovid (43 BC – AD 18)

Above: Bust of Greek poet Homer (8th century BC)

Above: Bust of Greek playwright Aristophanes (446 – 386 BC)

They hone their prose by absorbing the sentences of Montaigne and Samuel Johnson.

Above: French philosopher Michel de Montaigne (1533 – 1592)

Above: English writer / lexicographer Samuel Johnson (1709 – 1784)

And who could ask for better teachers?

Though writers have learned from the masters in a formal, methodical way – Harry Crews has described taking apart a Graham Greene novel to see how many chapters it contained, how much time it covered, how Greene handled pacing and tone and point of view – the truth is that this sort of education more often involves a kind of osmosis.

Above: English writer Graham Greene (1904 – 1991)

For example, copying out long passages of a great writer’s work, you will notice that your own work should become, however briefly, just a little more fluent.

In the ongoing process of becoming a writer, I read and re-read the authors I have most loved.

I read for pleasure, but also more analytically, conscious of style, of diction, of how sentences were formed and information conveyed, how the writer structured their plot, created characters, employed detail and dialogue.

Writing, like reading, is done one word at a time, one punctuation mark at a time, putting every word on trial for its life.

Writers learn that which cannot be taught.

Writers learn to write by practice, hard work, repeated trial and error, success and failure.

And from the books they admire.

My blog is a sort of a “what-happened-on-this day” creation.

I like to focus on the birthdays of other writers or mention what holiday is being commemorated on this day.

Imagine we are about to be plunged into a story – any story in the world.

The curtain rises.

The cinema darkens.

We turn to the first paragraph of a novel.

The narrator utters the timeless formula:

Once upon a time…

John Ford (17 April 1586 – 1639) was an English playwright and poet born in Ilsington in Devon, England.

His plays deal mainly with the conflict between passion and conscience.

Although remembered primarily as a playwright, he also wrote a number of poems on themes of love and morality.

Above: English writer John Ford

Ford is best known for the tragedy ‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore (1633), a family drama with a plot line of incest.

The play’s title has often been changed in new productions, sometimes being referred to as simply Giovanni and Annabella — the play’s leading, incestuous brother-and-sister characters.

In a 19th-century work it is coyly called The Brother and Sister

Shocking as the play is, it is still widely regarded as a classic piece of English drama.

It has been adapted to film at least twice: 

  • My Sister, My Love (Sweden, 1966)
  • Tis Pity She’s a Whore (Belgium, 1978).

On the face of it, so limitless is the human imagination and so boundless the realm of the storyteller’s command, we think that literally anything could happen next…

His plays deal with conflicts between individual passion and conscience and the laws and morals of society at large

Ford had a strong interest in abnormal psychology that is expressed through his dramas.

While virtually nothing is known of Ford’s personal life, one reference suggests that his interest in melancholia may have been more than merely intellectual.

Deep in a dump alone John Ford was gat,

With folded arms and melancholy hat.”

(Choice Drollery, Joseph Woodfall Ebsworth)

The story will have a hero or heroine or both, a central figure or figures on whose fate our interest in the story ultimately rests.

Someone with whom we can identify.

The Laws of Candy is set in Crete — “Candy” and “Candia” being archaic names for the island.

In Ford’s fictional Candy, two unusual laws are in the statute books.

One is a (highly impracticable) law against ingratitude:

A citizen who is accused of ingratitude by another, and fails to make amends, can be sentenced to death.

The second law holds that after a military victory, the soldiers will select the one of their number who has done the most to achieve the success.

Tell us, pray, what devil this melancholy is, which can transform men into monsters.

(The Lover’s Melancholy, John Ford)

The second law is the cause of the play’s conflict.

The forces of Candy have just won a great victory over the invading Venetians.

(Historically, Venice conquered Crete in the early 13th century [1209 – 1217] and ruled the island until 1669, though with many rebellions by the local populace.)

The commander of the army, Cassilanes, the leading soldier of his generation, expects to receive the acclaim of the troops, and is incensed to find that he has a rival in his own son, Antinous, who has distinguished himself in his first battle.

The father’s concern is real:

Antinous wins the approval of the soldiers.

Paradoxically, Cassilanes is even more outraged when Antinous claims his reward from the state — and names a bronze statue of his father.

To Cassilanes, this is only one more assertion of the son’s assumed power.

Above: Island of Crete, Greece

Melancholy is not, as you conceive, indisposition of body, but the mind’s disease.

(The Lover’s Melancholy, John Ford)

Cassilanes is certainly an irascible old man — but he has an additional grievance.

He has mortgaged his estates to pay the troops, who otherwise would not have fought.

The state is in no hurry to rectify the matter.

The owner of the mortgage is Gonzalo, an ambitious Venetian lord.

Gonzalo is the play’s Machiavellian villain.

He plots and manipulates with the goal of becoming both the King of Candy and the Duke of Venice.

Gonzalo, however, makes two mistakes.

One is that he takes a young Venetian prisoner of war, Fernando, into his confidence, relying on their shared nationality.

When Cassilanes retreats to a poverty-stricken retirement, Gonzalo arranges for Fernando to live in the general’s little household to further his machinations.

Fernando is a noble young man, in mind as well as in birth.

Once he falls in love with Cassilanes’ daughter Annophel, he reveals Gonzalo’s plots.

Above: Location of the island of Crete (Kriti) (in red)

Green indiscretion, flattery of greatness,
Rawness of judgement, wilfulness in folly,
Thoughts vagrant as the wind, and as uncertain.

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

Gonzalo’s second mistake is to fall in love himself, with the Princess Erota.

The play’s list of dramatis personae describes her as “a Princess, imperious, and of an overweaning Beauty“.

Royal, rich, witty, and beautiful, she is also extravagantly vain.

She is loved by many men, including a Prince of Cyprus named Philander, but scorns them all.

Until, that is, she meets Antinous and falls in love with him.

Motivated by that love, she manipulates the vain Gonzalo into selling her Cassilanes’ mortgage and also into committing his plots and plans to writing.

Above: Map of Crete

Love is the tyrant of the heart.

It darkens reason, confounds discretion, deaf to counsel.

It runs a headlong course to desperate madness.

(The Lover’s Melancholy, John Ford)

In the play’s final climactic scene, the other odd law of Candy comes into play.

Cassilanes comes before the Senate with a complaint of ingratitude against his son.

Antinous, resigned to death, refuses to defend himself.

But Erota makes a similar complaint of ingratitude against Cassilanes — which provokes Antinous to make the same complaint against her, in a sort of round-robin festival of egomania.

The solution to this tangle comes when Annophel enters and makes her own complaint of ingratitude against the Senate of Candy, for its treatment of her father.

Above: Firkas fortress in Chania, Crete, Greece

Glories of human greatness are but pleasing dreams and shadows soon decaying.

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

The befuddled Senate turns the matter over to the Cypriot prince Philander for judgment.

Philander prevails on Cassilanes to repent and withdraw his complaint against Antinous, which allows all the subsequent difficulties to be resolved.

Almost as an afterthought, the Cretans and Venetians unite in condemning Gonzalo to punishment.

Erota’s pride is humbled (we know this, since she tells us so herself), and she accepts her most constant (and noble) suitor, Prince Philander, as her spouse.

Above: Venetian harbour in Chania, Crete, Greece

The joys of marriage are Heaven on Earth,
Life’s Paradise, great princess, the soul’s quiet,
Sinews of concord, earthly immortality,
Eternity of pleasures, no restoratives
Like to a constant woman!

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

In The Witch of Edmonton, Elizabeth Sawyer is a poor, lonely, and unfairly ostracized old woman, who turns to witchcraft after having been unjustly accused of it, having nothing left to lose.

A talking devil-dog Tom (performed by a human actor) appears, becoming her familiar and only friend.

With Tom’s help, Sawyer causes one of her neighbours to go mad and kill herself, but otherwise she does not achieve very much, since many of those around her are only too willing to sell their souls to the Devil all by themselves.

The play is divided fairly rigidly into separate plots, which only occasionally intersect or overlap.

Alongside the main story of Elizabeth Sawyer, the other major plotline is a domestic tragedy centering on the farmer’s son Frank Thorney.

Frank is secretly married to the poor but virtuous Winnifride, whom he loves and believes is pregnant with his child, but his father insists that he marry Susan, elder daughter of the wealthy farmer Old Carter.

Frank weakly gives in to a bigamous marriage but then tries to flee the county with Winnifride disguised as his page.

When the doting Susan follows him, he stabs her.

At this point, the witch’s dog Tom is present on stage.

It is left ambiguous whether Frank remains a fully responsible moral agent in the act.

Frank inflicts superficial wounds on himself, so that he can pretend to have been attacked.

He attempts to frame Warbeck, Susan’s former suitor, and Somerton, suitor of Susan’s younger sister Katherine.

While the kindly Katherine is nursing her supposedly incapacitated brother-in-law, however, she finds a bloodstained knife in his pocket and immediately guesses the truth, which she reveals to her father.

The devil-dog is on stage again at this point, and “shrugs for joy” according to the stage direction, which suggests that he has brought about Frank’s downfall.

Tempt not the stars, young man.

Thou canst not play with the severity of fate.”

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

Frank is executed for his crime at the same time as Mother Sawyer, but he, in marked contrast to her, is forgiven by all.

The pregnant Winnifride is taken into the family of Old Carter.

The play thus ends on a relatively happy note — Old Carter enjoins all those assembled at the execution:

So, let’s every man home to Edmonton with heavy hearts, yet as merry as we can, though not as we would.

Revenge proves its own executioner.

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

The note of optimism is also heard in the play’s other main plot, centering on the Morris dancing yokel Cuddy Banks, whose invincible innocence allows him to emerge unscathed from his own encounters with the dog Tom.

He eventually banishes the dog from the stage with the words:

Out and avaunt!

He hath shook hands with time.

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

Despite the optimism of the play’s ending it remains clear that the execution of Mother Sawyer has done little or nothing to purge the play’s world of an evil to which its inhabitants are only too ready to turn spontaneously.

Firstly, the devil-dog has not been destroyed.

Indeed it resolves to go to London and corrupt souls there.

Secondly, the village’s voice of authority, the lord of the manor Sir Arthur Clarington, is represented as untrustworthy.

Mother Sawyer utters a lengthy tirade indicting his lechery – He had previously had an affair with Winnifride, which she now repents – and general corruption:

A charge which the play as a whole supports.

We are introduced to our central figure(s) in an imaginary world.

The general scene is set.

Once upon a time…

We are taken out of our present place and time into an imaginary realm where the story is to unfold.

We are introduced to our central figure(s).

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

The Witch of Edmonton may be very ready to capitalize on the sensational story of a witch, but it does not permit an easy and comfortable demonization of her.

It presents her as a product of society rather than an anomaly in it.

Something happens.

Some event, some encounter, precipates the story’s action, giving it a focus.

Once upon a time there was Someone living Somewhere.

Then one day Something happened.”

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

The plot of The Fair Maid of the Inn concerns the intertwined fortunes of two prominent Florentine families.

Alberto is the Admiral of Florence.

He is married to Mariana.

Their children are Cesario and Clarissa.

Baptista, another old sailor, is a friend of Alberto, and father of Mentivole.

Like their fathers, Cesario and Mentivole are friends.

Alberto’s is a stable nuclear family.

Mariana is a doting mother, especially in regard to Cesario.

Baptista’s situation is less happy:

Fourteen years earlier, he, a widower in his prime, contracted a secret marriage with Juliana, a niece of the Duke of Genoa.

After a short three months of contentment, the Genoese Duke discovered the marriage, exiled Baptista, and sequestered Juliana.

He has not seen her since.

We meet a little boy called Aladdin, who lives in a city in China.

One day a sorcerer arrives and leads him out of the city to a mysterious cave.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

This situation is delineated in the play’s long opening scene.

At the scene’s opening, Cesario warns Clarissa to safeguard her virginity and her reputation, but Clarissa responds by reproving her brother about his rumoured affair with Biancha, the 13-year-old daughter of a local tavernkeeper.

(She’s the “fair maid” of the title.)

Cesario protests that his connection with the girl is above reproach:

Biancha, he says, is beautiful but chaste.

By the scene’s close, Mentivole expresses his love for Clarissa.

She responds positively and gives him a diamond ring as a token of her affection and commitment.

We meet the Scottish General Macbeth, who has just won a great victory over his country’s enemies.

Then, on his way home, he encounters mysterious witches.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

Friends though they are, Cesario and Mentivole have a falling-out over a horse race.

They quarrel, lose their tempers and draw their swords to fight.

They are separated by other friends, but only after Cesario is wounded.

The affair escalates into a major feud between the two families.

Alberto is called away by his naval duties and is soon reported dead.

Mariana fears that her son will be killed in the feud.

To prevent this, she announces (falsely) to the Duke and his court that Cesario is not really Alberto’s son.

Early in their marriage, she maintains, Alberto had wanted an heir, but the couple did not conceive.

Mariana exploited her husband’s absences at sea to pass off a servant’s child as her own.

Thus he is no longer Alberto’s son and safe from Baptista’s enmity.

But the Duke sees the injustice done against Cesario and decrees that the now-widowed Mariana should marry the young man and endow him with three-quarters of Alberto’s estate.

The remaining share will serve as Clarissa’s dowry.

We meet a girl called Alice, wondering how to amuse herself in the summer heat.

Suddenly she sees a white rabbit running past and vanishing down a mysterious hole.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

Cesario is amenable to this arrangement — but Mariana assures him that any marriage between them will never be consummated.

Cesario proposes a marriage between himself and Clarissa, though both women reject the idea out of hand.

And even Biancha turns against Cesario, when she comes to understand that he is not serious about marrying her.

Eventually matters are set right when Alberto returns to Florence.

Not dead, he was instead captured by the Turks, but rescued by Prospero, a captain in the service of Malta.

Prospero is an old friend of both Alberto and Baptista.

He is able to inform the world of the fate of Juliana, and the daughter that Alberto didn’t know Baptista had.

She is Biancha, the supposed daughter of the tavernkeeper.

This good news allows the compounding of all the previous difficulties.

The quarrel between Alberto and Baptista is resolved.

Cesario is restored to his rightful place as Alberto’s son.

Cesario and Biancha can marry, as can Mentivole and Clarissa.

Above: Firenze (Florence), Italia (Italy)

We see the great detective Sherlock Holmes sitting in his Baker Street lodgings.

Then there is a knock at the door.

A visitor enters to present him with his next case.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

The play has a comic subplot centered on Biancha, her supposed parents the Host and Hostess of the tavern, and their quests.

The comedy features a mountebank (a charlatan) and his clownish assistant, and their victims.

An event, a summons, provides the call to action which will lead the hero out of their initial state into a series of adventures or experiences which will transform their lives.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

The play’s storytelling is rough and rather inconsistent, most likely due to the multiple hands involved in its authorship.

The action the hero is drawn into will involve conflict and uncertainty, because without conflict and uncertainty there is no story.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

In The Queen, Alphonso, the play’s protagonist, is a defeated rebel against Aragon.

He has been condemned to death and is about to be executed.

The Queen of Aragon (otherwise unnamed) intercedes at the last moment and learns that Alphonso’s rebellion is rooted in his pathological misogyny.

The prospect of being ruled by a woman was too much for him to bear.

The Queen is struck with love at first sight.

She is, in her way, just as irrational as Alphonso is in his.

The Queen pardons Alphonso and marries him.

Alphonso requests a seven-day separation, to enable him to set aside his feelings against women.

The Queen grants his request.

The week extends to a month and the new King still avoids his Queen.

The intercession of her counsellors, and even her own personal appeal, make no difference.

In a bitter confrontation, Alphonso tells the Queen:

I hate thy sex.

Of all thy sex, thee worst.

The story carries us towards some kind of resolution.

Every story which is complete, and not just a fragmentary string of episodes and impressions, must work up to a climax, where conflict and uncertainty are usually at their most extreme.

Every story leads its central character in one of two directions.

Either they end happily with a sense of liberation, fulfilment and completion.

Or they end unhappily in some form of discomfiture, frustration or death.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

One man, however, sees a solution to the problem.

The psychologically sophisticated Muretto half-counsels, half-manipulates Alphonso into a more positive disposition toward the Queen.

Muretto praises the Queen’s beauty to Alphonso and simultaneously arouses his jealousy by suggesting that she is sexually active outside her marriage.

Muretto functions rather like a modern therapist to treat Alphonso’s psychological imbalance.

The psychological manipulation works, in the sense that Alphonso begins to value the Queen only after he thinks he has lost her to another man.

To say that stories either have happy or unhappy endings may seem such a commonplace that one almost hesitates to utter it, but it has to be said, because it is the most important single thing to be observed about stories.

Around that one fact, around what is necessary to bring a story to some sort of an ending, revolves the whole of their extraordinary significance in our lives.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

Yet with two such passionate individuals, reconciliation cannot come easily.

Alphonso condemns the Queen to death.

She can be reprieved only if a champion comes forth to defend her honour by meeting the king in single combat.

The Queen, however, is determined to bow to her husband’s will no matter the price and demands that all her followers swear they will not step forward in her cause.

Aristotle first observed that a satisfactory story – a story which is a “whole” – must have “a beginning, a middle and an end“.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

Above: Bust of Greek philosopher Aristotle (384 – 322 BC)

The play’s secondary plot deals with the love affair of the Queen’s General Velasco, the valiant soldier who defeated Alphonso, and the widow Salassa.

Velasco has the opposite problem from Alphonso:

He idealises his love for Salassa, terming her “the deity I adore“.

He allows her to dominate their relationship.

(Velasco’s friend and admirer Lodovico has a low opinion of Salassa, calling her a “frail commodity“, a “paraquetto“, a “wagtail“.)

Salassa indulges in her power over Velasco by asking him to give up all combat and conflict, or even wearing a sword and defending his reputation, for a period of two years.

When he agrees, Velasco finds that he quickly loses his self-respect and the regard of others.

He regains those qualities only when he steps forward as the Queen’s champion, ready to meet the King on the field of honour.

There are tragic stories, stories in which the hero’s fortunes usually begin by rising, but eventually “turn down” to disaster.

(The Greek word catastrophe means literally a “down stroke“, the downturn in the hero’s fortunes at the end of a tragedy.)

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

Before the duel can take place, however, the assembled courtiers protest the proceeding.

Muretto steps forward to explain his role in manipulating Alphonso’s mind.

Finally, Alphonso is convinced of the Queen’s innocence and repents his past harshness.

Their rocky relationship reaches a new tolerance and understanding.

A humbled Salassa also resolves to give up her vain and selfish ways to be a fit wife for Velasco.

There are comedies, stories in which things initially seem to become more and more coomplicated for the hero, until they are entangled in a complete knot, from which there seems to be no escape, but eventually comes the peripeteia, the reversal of fortune.

The knot is miraculously unravelled (from which we get the French word denouement, an “unknotting“.

The hero is liberated.

We and all the world rejoice.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

The play’s comic relief is supplied by a group of minor characters – two quarrelling followers of Alphonso, the astrologer Pynto and a bluff captain named Bufo, plus Velasco’s servant Mopas and the matchmaker/bawd Madame Shaparoon.

The plot of a story leads its hero either to a catastrophe or to a denouement, to frustration or liberation, to death or a new lease on life.

(The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker)

In ‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore, Giovanni, recently returned to Parma from university in Bologna, has developed an incestuous passion for his sister Annabella and the play opens with his discussing this ethical problem with Friar Bonaventura.

Bonaventura tries to convince Giovanni that his desires are evil despite Giovanni’s passionate reasoning and eventually persuades him to try to rid himself of his feelings through repentance.

Above: Parma, Italy

Nice philosophy may tolerate unlikely arguments, but Heaven admits no jest.

(‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore, John Ford)

Annabella, meanwhile, is being approached by a number of suitors including Bergetto, Grimaldi, and Soranzo.

She is not interested in any of them.

Giovanni finally tells her how he feels (obviously having failed in his attempts to repent) and finally wins her over.

Annabella’s tutoress Putana (“Whore“) encourages the relationship.

The siblings consummate their relationship.

I have spent many a silent night in sighs and groans, ran over all my thoughts, despised my fate, reasoned against the reasons of my love, done all that smoothed-cheek Virtue could advise, but found all bootless:

‘Tis my destiny that you must either love or I must die.

(‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore, John Ford)

Hippolita, a past lover of Soranzo, verbally attacks him, furious with him for letting her send her husband Richardetto on a dangerous journey she believed would result in his death so that they could be together, then declining his vows and abandoning her.

Soranzo leaves and his servant Vasques promises to help Hippolita get revenge on Soranzo and the pair agree to marry after they murder him.

Delay in vengeance gives a heavier blow.

(‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore, John Ford)

Richardetto is not dead but also in Parma in disguise with his niece Philotis.

Richardetto is also desperate for revenge against Soranzo and convinces Grimaldi that to win Annabella, he should stab Soranzo with a poisoned sword.

Bergetto and Philotis, now betrothed, are planning to marry secretly in the place Richardetto orders Grimaldi to wait.

Grimaldi mistakenly stabs and kills Bergetto instead, leaving Philotis, Poggio (Bergetto’s servant), and Donado (Bergetto’s uncle) distraught.

There is a place, in a black and hollow vault, where day is never seen.

There shines no sun, but flaming horror of consuming fires – a lightless sulphur, choked with smoky fogs of an infected darkness.

In this place dwell many thousand thousand sundry sorts of never-dying deaths.

(‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore, John Ford)

Annabella resigns herself to marrying Soranzo, knowing she has to marry someone other than her brother.

She subsequently falls ill and it is revealed that she is pregnant.

Friar Bonaventura then persuades her to marry Soranzo before her pregnancy becomes apparent.

Donado and Florio (father of Annabella and Giovanni) go to the Cardinal’s house, where Grimaldi has been in hiding, to beg for justice.

The Cardinal refuses due to Grimaldi’s high status and instead sends him back to Rome.

Florio tells Donado to wait for God to bring them justice.

“Why, I hold fate clasped in my fist and could command the course of Time’s eternal motion, hadst thou been one thought more steady than an ebbing sea.”

(‘Tis Pity She’s a Whore, John Ford)

Annabella and Soranzo are married soon after.

Their ceremony includes masque dancers, one of whom reveals herself to be Hippolita.

She claims to be willing to drink a toast with Soranzo and the two raise their glasses and drink, on which note she explains that her plan was to poison his wine.

Vasques comes forward and reveals that he was always loyal to his master and he poisoned Hippolita.

She dies spouting insults and damning prophecies to the newlyweds.

Seeing the effects of anger and revenge, Richardetto abandons his plans and sends Philotis off to a convent to save her soul.

There’s not a hair sticks on my head but, like a leaden plummet, it sinks me to the grave:

I must creep thither.

The journey is not long.

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

When Soranzo discovers Annabella’s pregnancy, the two argue until Annabella realises that Soranzo truly did love her and finds herself consumed with guilt.

She is confined to her room by her husband, who plots with Vasques to avenge himself against his cheating wife and her unknown lover.

On Soranzo’s exit, Putana comes onto the stage and Vasques pretends to befriend her to gain the name of Annabella’s baby’s father.

Once Putana reveals that it is Giovanni, Vasques has bandits tie Putana up and put out her eyes as punishment for the terrible acts she has willingly overseen and encouraged.

In her room, Annabella writes a letter to her brother in her own blood, warning him that Soranzo knows and will soon seek revenge.

The Friar delivers the letter, but Giovanni is too arrogant to believe he can be harmed and ignores advice to decline the invitation to Soranzo’s birthday feast.

The Friar subsequently flees Parma to avoid further involvement in Giovanni’s downfall.

Love is dead.

Let lovers’ eyes locked in endless dreams, th’ extreme of all extremes, ope no more, for now Love dies.”

(The Broken Heart, John Ford)

On the day of the feast, Giovanni visits Annabella in her room and after talking with her, stabs her during a kiss.

He then enters the feast, at which all remaining characters are present, wielding a dagger on which his sister’s heart is skewered and tells everyone of the incestuous affair.

Florio dies immediately from shock.

Soranzo attacks Giovanni verbally and Giovanni stabs and kills him.

Vasques intervenes, wounding Giovanni before ordering the bandits to finish the job.

Following the massacre, the Cardinal orders Putana to be burnt at the stake, Vasques to be banished, and the Church to seize all the wealth and property belonging to the dead.

Richardetto finally reveals his true identity to Donado and the play ends with the cardinal saying of Annabella:

Who could not say,

‘Tis pity she’s a whore?“.

Fly hence, shadows, that do keep,
Watchful sorrows, charmed in sleep.

(The Lover’s Melancholy, John Ford)

The Lady’s Trial employs the multiple-plot structure that is typical of Ford and common in the dramas of the era.

The main plot concerns Auria, an aristocrat of Genoa, and his marriage to the beautiful and virtuous but lowly-born Spinella.

Auria’s marriage across class lines is controversial among other Genoese nobles, like his friend Aurelio.

When Auria announces that he is going off to the wars against the Turks to repair his fortunes – Spinella brought no dowry – Aurelio opposes the move on two counts:

Spinella will be exposed to temptations.

The role of soldier of fortune is unbecoming to a nobleman.

Auria replies that he trusts his wife and that he would rather stand on his own than depend on his friends.

The contrast is drawn between the two men:

Aurelio is rule-bound and conventional, while Auria is more independent in his judgments.

He is a noble gentleman; withal
Happy in his endeavours: the general voice
Sounds him for courtesy, behaviour, language,
And every fair demeanour, an example:
Titles of honour add not to his worth;
Who is himself an honour to his title.

(The Lady’s Trial, John Ford)

Aurelio is right in one respect:

Spinella is exposed to temptation in her husband’s absence.

The nobleman Adurni tries to seduce Spinella, though he is so convincingly repulsed that he reforms and abandons his lustful ways.

Spinella’s reputation is compromised, however, when Aurelio exposes their meeting.

Even when Adurni confesses his transgression and apologizes to the returned husband, the scandal comes to a head in a formal trial of Spinella (“the lady’s trial” of the title).

The trial allows Spinella to exonerate herself and prove to the world, and to aristocratic Genoese society, her honour and virtue.

Auria accepts Adurni’s repentance as sincere and chooses the path of reason over violent retribution.

Adurni in turn takes Spinella’s sister Castanna as his bride, as a seal of their reconciliation.

“Let them fear bondage who are slaves to fear;
The sweetest freedom is an honest heart.”

(The Lady’s Trial, John Ford)

The secondary plot involves the divorced couple Benatzi and Levidolche.

Levidolche has been seduced by Adurni.

Benatzi seeks to catch her in the act by wooing her in disguise — but Levidolche recognizes him and decides to reform.

But she tries to manipulate Benatzi into taking revenge on Adurni — an attempt that fails comically.

We can drink till all look blue.

(The Lady’s Trial, John Ford)

The third level, the comic subplot, deals with the Amoretta, a comical young lady with a lisp who has an obsession with horses.

She is pursued by two ridiculous suitors.

Firstly Guzman, a Spanish soldier with breath smelling of garlic and herring and Fulgoso a good looking but rather dim witted Dutchman who whistles constantly.

The two would-be suitors are encouraged by Futelli and Piero for the pairs own amusement.

Through various hilarious failed attempts by the two foreigners, the play is provided some much needed comic relief.

Amoretta eventually marries the vermin-like Futelli.

“A bachelor may thrive by observation, on a little.

A single life’s no burden, but to draw in yokes is chargeable and will require a double maintenance.

(The Fancies, Chaste and Noble, John Ford)

The play ends with four marriages.

In a pattern typical of the comic genre, everyone has learned his or her lesson.

In Auria, Ford’s portrayal of a husband who “responds rationally to the rumour of his wife’s infidelity” provides a bold departure from, and a stark contrast to, earlier figures in English Renaissance drama like Othello, as well as the precedents of Ford’s own earlier plays.

Sister, look ye, how, by a new creation of my tailor’s I’ve shook off old mortality.”

(The Fancies, Chaste and Noble, John Ford)

Thornton Niven Wilder (17 April 1897 – 1975) was an American playwright and novelist.

He won three Pulitzer Prizes for the novel The Bridge of San Luis Rey and for the plays Our Town and The Skin of Our Teeth, and a US National Book Award for the novel The Eighth Day.

Above: American writer Thornton Wilder

We can only be said to be alive in those moments when our hearts are conscious of our treasures.

(The Woman of Andros, Thornton Wilder)

Wilder began writing plays while at the Thacher School in Ojai, California, where he did not fit in and was teased by classmates as overly intellectual.

According to a classmate:

We left him alone, just left him alone.

And he would retire at the library, his hideaway, learning to distance himself from humiliation and indifference.”

Literature is the orchestration of platitudes.

(TIME magazine, 12 January 1953, Thornton Wilder)

After graduating, Wilder went to Italy and studied archaeology and Italian (1920 –1921) as part of an eight-month residency at the American Academy in Rome.

He then taught French at the Lawrenceville School in Lawrenceville, New Jersey, beginning in 1921.

His first novel, The Cabala, was published in 1926.

In 1927, The Bridge of San Luis Rey brought him commercial success and his first Pulitzer Prize (1928).

He resigned from the Lawrenceville School in 1928.

From 1930 to 1937 he taught at the University of Chicago, during which time he published his translation of André Obey’s own adaptation of the tale “Le Viol de Lucrece” (1931) under the title “Lucrece“. 

In Chicago, he became famous as a lecturer and was chronicled on the celebrity pages. 

Above: University of Chicago shield

In 1938 he won the Pulitzer Prize for Drama for his play Our Town.

He won the Prize again in 1943 for his play The Skin of Our Teeth.

Many plays — certainly mine — are like blank checks.

The actors and directors put their own signatures on them.

(The New York Mirror, 13 July 1956, Thornton Wilder)

Above: Thornton Wilder

He went on to be a visiting professor at Harvard University, where he served for a year as the Charles Eliot Norton professor.

Though he considered himself a teacher first and a writer second, he continued to write all his life, receiving the Peace Prize of the German Book Trade in 1957 and the Presidential Medal of Freedom in 1963.

In 1968 he won the National Book Award for his novel The Eighth Day.

The most valuable thing I inherited was a temperament that does not revolt against Necessity and that is constantly renewed in Hope.

(Thornton Wilder)

Above: Frank Kraven as The Stage Manager in Our Town

The Bridge of San Luis Rey (1927) tells the story of several unrelated people who happen to be on a bridge in Peru when it collapses, killing them.

Philosophically, the book explores the question of why unfortunate events occur to people who seem “innocent” or “undeserving.

It won the Pulitzer Prize in 1928.

In 1998 it was selected by the editorial board of the American Modern Library as one of the 100 best novels of the 20th century.

The book was quoted by British Prime Minister Tony Blair during the memorial service for victims of the September 11 attacks in 2001.

“For my reading I have chosen the final words of The Bridge of San Luis Rey written by Thornton Wilder in 1927.

It is about a tragedy that took place in Peru, when a bridge collapsed over a gorge and five people died.

A witness to the deaths, wanting to make sense of them and explain the ways of God to his fellow human beings, examined the lives of the people who died, and these words were said by someone who knew the victims, and who had been through the many emotions, and the many stages, of bereavement and loss.

But soon we will die, and all memories of those five will have left Earth, and we ourselves shall be loved for a while and forgotten.

But the love will have been enough.

All those impulses of love return to the love that made them.

Even memory is not necessary for love.

There is a land of the living and a land of the dead, and the bridge is love.

The only survival, the only meaning.

(The Guardian, Friday 21 September 2001, Tony Blair)

Above: Tony Blair

Since then its popularity has grown enormously. 

The book is the progenitor of the modern disaster epic in literature and film-making, where a single disaster intertwines the victims, whose lives are then explored by means of flashbacks to events before the disaster.

The first few pages of the first chapter explain the book’s basic premise:

The story centers on a fictional event that happened in Peru on the road between Lima and Cuzco, at noon on Friday 20 July 1714.

A rope bridge woven by the Inca a century earlier collapsed at that particular moment, while five people were crossing it, sending them falling from a great height to their deaths in the river below. 

The collapse was witnessed by Brother Juniper, a Franciscan friar who was on his way to cross the bridge himself.

A deeply pious man who seeks to provide some sort of empirical evidence that might prove to the world God’s Divine Providence, he sets out to interview everyone he can find who knew the five victims.

Over the course of six years, he compiles a huge book of all of the evidence he gathers to show that the beginning and end of a person is all part of God’s plan for that person.

Part One foretells the burning of the book that occurs at the end of the novel, but it also says that one copy of Brother Juniper’s book survives and is at the library of the University of San Marcos, where it now sits neglected.

Part Two focuses on one of the victims of the collapse:

Doña María, the Marquesa de Montemayor.

The daughter of a wealthy cloth merchant, the Marquesa was an ugly child who eventually entered into an arranged marriage and bore a daughter, Clara, whom she loved dearly.

Clara was indifferent to her mother, though, and became engaged to a Spanish man and moved across the ocean to Spain where she married.

Doña María visits her daughter in Spain, but when they cannot get along, she returns to Lima.

The only way that they can communicate comfortably is by letter.

Doña María pours her heart into her writing, which becomes so polished that her letters will be read in schools in the centuries after her lifetime.

Love is an energy which exists of itself.

It is its own value.

(TIME magazine, 3 February 1958, Thornton Wilder)

Doña María takes as her companion Pepita, a girl raised at the Convent of Santa María Rosa de las Rosas.

When she learns that her daughter is pregnant in Spain, Doña María decides to make a pilgrimage to the shrine of Santa María de Cluxambuqua to pray that the baby will be healthy and loved.

Pepita goes along as company and to supervise the staff.

When Doña María is out at the shrine, Pepita stays at the inn and writes a letter to her patron, the Abbess María del Pilar, complaining about her misery and loneliness.

Doña María sees the letter on the table when she gets back and reads it.

Later, she asks Pepita about the letter.

Pepita says she tore it up because the letter was not brave.

Doña María has new insight into the ways in which her own life and love for her daughter have lacked bravery.

She writes her “first letter” (actually Letter LVI) of courageous love to her daughter, but two days later, returning to Lima, she and Pepita are on the bridge of San Luis Rey when it collapses.

Love, though it expends itself in generosity and thoughtfulness, though it gives birth to visions and to great poetry, remains among the sharpest expressions of self-interest.

Not until it has passed through a long servitude, through its own self-hatred, through mockery, through great doubts, can it take its place among the loyalties.”

(Thornton Wilder)

Esteban and Manuel are twins who were left at the Convent of Santa María Rosa de las Rosas as infants.

The Abbess of the convent, Madre María del Pilar, developed a fondness for them as they grew up.

When they became older, they decided to be scribes.

They are so close that they have developed a secret language that only they understand.

Their closeness becomes strained when Manuel falls in love with Camila Perichole, a famous actress.

Style is but the faintly contemptible vessel in which the bitter liquid is recommended to the world.

(The Bridge of San Luis Rey, Thornton Wilder)

Perichole flirts with Manuel and swears him to secrecy when she retains him to write letters to her lover, the Viceroy.

Esteban has no idea of their relationship until she turns up at the twins’ room one night in a hurry and has Manuel write to a matador with whom she is having an affair.

Esteban encourages his brother to follow her, but instead Manuel swears that he will never see her again.

Later, Manuel cuts his knee on a piece of metal and it becomes infected.

The surgeon instructs Esteban to put cold compresses on the injury:

The compresses are so painful that Manuel curses Esteban, though he later remembers nothing of his curses.

Esteban offers to send for the Perichole, but Manuel refuses.

Soon after, Manuel dies.

Now he discovered that secret from which one never quite recovers, that even in the most perfect love one person loves less profoundly than the other.

(The Bridge of San Luis Rey, Thornton Wilder)

When the Abbess comes to prepare the body, she asks Esteban his name and he says he is Manuel.

Gossip about his ensuing strange behavior spreads all over town.

He goes to the theatre but runs away before the Perichole can talk to him.

The Abbess also tries to talk to him, but he runs away, so she sends for Captain Alvarado.

Many who have spent a lifetime in it can tell us less of love than the child that lost a dog yesterday.”

(Thornton Wilder)

Captain Alvarado, a well-known sailor and explorer, goes to see Esteban in Cuzco and hires him to sail the world with him, far from Peru.

Esteban agrees, then refuses, then acquiesces if he can get all his pay in advance to buy a present for the Abbess before he departs.

That night Esteban attempts suicide but is saved by Captain Alvarado.

The Captain offers to take him back to Lima to buy the present.

At the ravine spanned by the bridge of San Luis Rey, the Captain goes down to a boat that is ferrying some materials across the water.

Esteban goes to the bridge and is on it when it collapses.

I am not interested in the ephemeral — such subjects as the adulteries of dentists.

I am interested in those things that repeat and repeat and repeat in the lives of the millions.

(The New York Times, 6 November 1961, Thornton Wilder)

Uncle Pio acts as Camila Perichole’s valet, and, in addition, “her singing-master, her coiffeur, her masseur, her reader, her errand-boy, her banker.

Rumour added: her father.”

He was born the bastard son of a Madrid aristocrat and later travelled the world engaged in a wide variety of dubious, though legal, businesses, most related to being a go-between or agent of the powerful, including (briefly) conducting interrogations for the Inquisition.

His life “became too complicated” and he fled to Peru.

He came to realize that he had just three interests in the world:

  • independence
  • the constant presence of beautiful women
  • the masterpieces of Spanish literature, particularly those of the theatre

Like all the rich he could not bring himself to believe that the poor – Look at their houses! Look at their clothes – could really suffer.

Like all the cultivated he believed that only the widely read could be said to know that they were unhappy.

(The Bridge of San Luis Rey, Thornton Wilder)

He finds work as the confidential agent of the Viceroy of Peru.

One day, he discovers a 12-year-old café singer, Micaela Villegas, and takes her under his protection.

Over the course of years, as they travel from tavern to tavern throughout Latin America, she grows into a beautiful and talented young woman.

Uncle Pio instructs her in the etiquette of high society and goads her to greatness by expressing perpetual disappointment with her performances.

She develops into Camila Perichole, the most honoured actress in Lima.

99% of the people in the world are fools and the rest of us are in great danger of contagion.

(The Matchmaker, Thornton Wilder)

After many years of success, the Perichole becomes bored with the stage.

The elderly Viceroy, Don Andrés, takes her as his mistress.

She and Uncle Pio and the Archbishop of Peru and, eventually, Captain Alvarado meet frequently at midnight for dinner at the Viceroy’s mansion.

Through it all, Uncle Pio remains faithfully devoted to her, but as Camila ages and bears three children by the Viceroy she focuses on becoming a lady rather than an actress.

She avoids Uncle Pio.

When he talks to her she tells him to not use her stage name.

Money is like manure.

It is not worth a thing unless it is spread around encouraging young things to grow.

(The Matchmaker, Thornton Wilder)

When a smallpox epidemic sweeps through Lima, Camila is disfigured by it.

She takes her young son Don Jaime, who suffers from convulsions, to the country.

Uncle Pio sees her one night trying hopelessly to cover her pockmarked face with powder.

Ashamed, she refuses to ever see him again.

He begs her to allow him to take her son to Lima and teach the boy as he taught her.

Despairing at the turn her life has taken, she reluctantly agrees.

Uncle Pio and Jaime leave the next morning.

They are the 4th and 5th people on the bridge of San Luis Rey when it collapses.

Physicians are the cobblers, rather the botchers, of men’s bodies.

As the one patches our tattered clothes, so the other solders our diseased flesh.

(The Lover’s Melancholy, John Ford)

Brother Juniper labors for six years on his book about the bridge collapse, talking to everyone he can find who knew the victims, trying various mathematical formulas to measure spiritual traits, with no results beyond conventionally pious generalizations.

He compiles his huge book of interviews with complete faith in God’s goodness and justice, but a council pronounces his work heretical.

The book and Brother Juniper are publicly burned for their heresy.

Imagination draws on memory.

Memory and imagination combined can stage a servants’ ball or even write a book, if that’s what they want to do.”

(Theophilus North, Thornton Wilder)

The story then shifts back in time to the day of a funeral service for those who died in the bridge collapse.

The Archbishop, the Viceroy and Captain Alvarado are at the ceremony.

At the Convent of Santa María Rosa de las Rosas, the Abbess feels, having lost Pepita and the twin brothers, that her work to help the poor and infirm will die with her.

A year after the accident, Camila Perichole seeks out the Abbess to ask how she can go on, having lost her son and Uncle Pio.

Camila gains comfort and insight from the Abbess.

It is later revealed she becomes a helper at the Convent.

Later, Doña Clara arrives from Spain, also seeking out the Abbess to speak with her about her mother, the Marquesa de Montemayor.

She is greatly moved by the work of the Abbess in caring for the deaf, the insane and the dying.

The novel ends with the Abbess’ observation:

There is a land of the living and a land of the dead and the bridge is love, the only survival, the only meaning.

Wilder wrote Our Town, a popular play (and later film) set in fictional Grover’s Corners, New Hampshire.

It was inspired in part by Dante’s Purgatorio and in part by his friend Gertrude Stein’s novel The Making of Americans.

Above: Italian writer Dante Aligheri (1265 – 1321)

Above: American writer Gertrude Stein (1874 – 1946)

Wilder suffered from writer’s block while writing the final act. 

Our Town employs a choric narrator called the Stage Manager and a minimalist set to underscore the human experience.

Wilder himself played the Stage Manager on Broadway for two weeks and later in summer stock productions.

Following the daily lives of the Gibbs and Webb families, as well as the other inhabitants of Grover’s Corners, the play illustrates the importance of the universality of the simple, yet meaningful lives of all people in the world in order to demonstrate the value of appreciating life.

The play won the 1938 Pulitzer Prize.

Wherever you come near the human race there’s layers and layers of nonsense.”

(Our Town, Thornton Wilder)

The Stage Manager introduces the audience to the small town of Grover’s Corners, New Hampshire and the people living there as a morning begins in the year 1901.

Joe Crowell delivers the paper to Doc Gibbs, Howie Newsome delivers the milk, and the Webb and Gibbs households send their children (Emily and Wally Webb, George and Rebecca Gibbs) off to school on this beautifully simple morning.

Professor Willard speaks to the audience about the history of the town.

Editor Webb speaks to the audience about the town’s socioeconomic status, political and religious demographics, and the accessibility and proliferation, or lack thereof, of culture and art in Grover’s Corners.

The Stage Manager leads us through a series of pivotal moments throughout the afternoon and evening, revealing the characters’ relationships and challenges.

That’s what it was to be alive.

To move about in a cloud of ignorance.

To go up and down trampling on the feelings of those about you.

To spend and waste time as though you had a million years.

To be always at the mercy of one self-centered passion or another. 

Now you know — that’s the happy existence you wanted to go back to.

Ignorance and blindness.

(Our Town, Thornton Wilder)

It is at this time when we are introduced to Simon Stimson, an organist and choir director at the Congregational Church.

We learn from Mrs. Louella Soames that Simon Stimson is an alcoholic when she, Mrs. Gibbs, and Mrs. Webb stop on the corner after choir practice and “gossip like a bunch of old hens“, according to Doc Gibbs, discussing Simon’s alcoholism.

It seems to be a well known fact amongst everyone in town that Simon Stimson has a problem with alcohol.

All the characters speak to his issue as if they are aware of it and his having “seen a peck of trouble” a phrase repeated by more than one character throughout the show.

While the majority of townsfolk choose to “look the other way“, including the town policeman, Constable Warren, it is Mrs. Gibbs who takes Simon’s struggles with addiction to heart, and has a conversation with her husband, Doc Gibbs, about Simon’s drinking.

Nurse one vice in your bosom.

Give it the attention it deserves and let your virtues spring up modestly around it.

Then you’ll have the miser who is no liar and the drunkard who is the benefactor of the whole city.

(The Matchmaker, Thornton Wilder)

Underneath a glowing full moon, Act I ends with siblings George and Rebecca, and Emily gazing out of their respective bedroom windows, enjoying the smell of heliotrope in the “wonderful (or terrible) moonlight” with the self-discovery of Emily and George liking each other, and the realization that they are both straining to grow up in their own way.

The future author is one who discovers that language, the exploration and manipulation of the resources of language, will serve him in winning through to his way.

(Thornton Wilder interview, Writers at Work)

The audience is dismissed to the first intermission by the Stage Manager who quips:

That’s the end of Act I, folks.

You can go and smoke, now.

Those that smoke.”

I think myself as a fabulist, not a critic. 

I realize that every writer is necessarily a critic — that is, each sentence is a skeleton accompanied by enormous activity of rejection and each selection is governed by general principles concerning truth, force, beauty, and so on. 

But, as I have just suggested, I believe that the practice of writing consists in more and more relegating all that schematic operation to the subconscious.

The critic that is in every fabulist is like the iceberg — nine-tenths of him is underwater.

(Thornton Wilder interview, Writers at Work)

Three years have passed.

George and Emily prepare to wed.

The day is filled with stress.

Howie Newsome is delivering milk in the pouring rain while Si Crowell, younger brother of Joe, laments how George’s baseball talents will be squandered.

George pays an awkward visit to his soon-to-be in-laws.

Here, the Stage Manager interrupts the scene and takes the audience back a year, to the end of Emily and George’s junior year.

Emily confronts George about his pride.

Over an ice cream soda, they discuss the future and confess their love for each other.

George decides not to go to college, as he had planned, but to work and eventually take over his uncle’s farm.

In the present, George and Emily say that they are not ready to marry — George to his mother, Emily to her father — but they both calm down and happily go through with the wedding.

A man looks pretty small at a wedding, George.

All those good women standing shoulder to shoulder, making sure that the knot’s tied in a mighty public way.

(Our Town, Thornton Wilder)

Nine years have passed.

The Stage Manager, in a lengthy monologue, discusses eternity, focusing attention on the cemetery outside of town and the people who have died since the wedding, including Mrs. Gibbs (pneumonia, while travelling), Wally Webb (burst appendix, while camping), Mrs. Soames and Simon Stimson (suicide by hanging).

Town undertaker Joe Stoddard is introduced, as is a young man named Sam Craig who has returned to Grover’s Corners for his cousin’s funeral.

That cousin is Emily, who died giving birth to her and George’s second child.

Once the funeral ends, Emily emerges to join the dead.

Mrs. Gibbs urges her to forget her life, warning her that being able to see but not interact with her family, all the while knowing what will happen in the future, will cause her too much pain.

Ignoring the warnings of Simon, Mrs. Soames and Mrs. Gibbs, Emily returns to Earth to relive one day, her 12th birthday.

She joyfully watches her parents and some of the people of her childhood for the first time in years, but her joy quickly turns to pain as she realizes how little people appreciate the simple joys of life.

The memory proves too painful for her and she realizes that every moment of life should be treasured.

When she asks the Stage Manager if anyone truly understands the value of life while they live it, he responds:

No. The saints and poets, maybe – they do some.

Emily returns to her grave next to Mrs. Gibbs and watches impassively as George kneels weeping over her.

The Stage Manager concludes the play and wishes the audience a good night.

I can’t. 

I can’t go on.

It goes so fast.

We don’t have time to look at one another.

I didn’t realize. 

So all that was going on and we never noticed.

Take me back — up the hill — to my grave.

But first:

Wait!

One more look.

Good-bye, Good-bye, world.

Good-bye Grover’s Corners – Mama and Papa.

Good-bye to clocks ticking and Mama’s sunflowers.

And food and coffee.

And new ironed dresses and hot bath and sleeping and waking up. 

Oh, Earth, you’re too wonderful for anybody to realize you.

Do human beings ever realize life while they live it?

Every, every minute? 

I’m ready to go back.

I should have listened to you.

That’s all human beings are!

Just blind people.

(Our Town, Thornton Wilder)

His play The Skin of Our Teeth opened in New York on 18 November 1942, featuring Fredric March and Tallulah Bankhead.

Again, the themes are familiar:

  • the timeless human condition
  • history as progressive, cyclical, or entropic
  • literature, philosophy, and religion as the touchstones of civilization

Three acts dramatize the travails of the Antrobus family, allegorizing the alternate history of mankind.

It was claimed by Joseph Campbell and Henry Morton Robinson, authors of A Skeleton Key to Finnegans Wake, that much of the play was the result of unacknowledged borrowing from James Joyce’s last work.

The comic spirit is given to us in order that we may analyze, weigh and clarify things in us which nettle us, or which we are outgrowing, or trying to reshape.”

(Thornton Wilder interview, Writers at Work)

Act One is an amalgam of early 20th century New Jersey and the dawn of the Ice Age.

The father is inventing things such as the lever, the wheel, the alphabet and multiplication tables.

The family and the entire northeastern US face extinction by a wall of ice moving southward from Canada.

The story is introduced by a narrator and further expanded by the family maid, Sabina.

There are unsettling parallels between the members of the Antrobus family and various characters from the Bible.

In addition, time is compressed and scrambled to such an extent that the refugees who arrive at the Antrobus house seeking food and fire include the Old Testament prophet Moses, the ancient Greek poet Homer, and women who are identified as Muses.

I hate this play and every word in it.

(The Skin of Our Teeth, Thornton Wilder)

Act II takes place on the Boardwalk at Atlantic City, New Jersey, where the Antrobuses are present for George’s swearing-in as president of the Ancient and Honorable Order of Mammals, Subdivision Humans.

Sabina is present, also, in the guise of a scheming beauty queen, who tries to steal George’s affection from his wife and family.

The conventioneers are rowdy and party furiously, but there is an undercurrent of foreboding as a fortune teller warns of an impending storm.

The weather soon transforms from summery sunshine to hurricane to deluge.

Gladys and George each attempt their individual rebellions and are brought back into line by the family.

The act ends with the family members reconciled and, paralleling the Biblical story of Noah’s Ark, directing pairs of animals to safety on a large boat where they survive the storm and the end of the world.

My advice to you is not to inquire why or whither, but just enjoy your ice cream while it is on your plate — that’s my philosophy.

(The Skin of Our Teeth, Thornton Wilder)

The final act takes place in the ruins of the Antrobuses’ former home.

A devastating war has occurred.

Maggie and Gladys have survived by hiding in a cellar.

When they come out of the cellar we see that Gladys has a baby.

Sabina joins them, “dressed as a Napoleonic camp-follower“.

George has been away at the front lines leading an army.

Henry also fought, on the opposite side, and returns as a general.

The family members discuss the ability of the human race to rebuild and continue after continually destroying itself.

The question is raised:

Is there any accomplishment or attribute of the human race of enough value that its civilization should be rebuilt?

The stage manager interrupts the play-within-the-play to explain that several members of their company can’t perform their parts, possibly due to food poisoning (as the actress playing Sabina saw blue mold on the lemon meringue pie at dinner).

The stage manager drafts a janitor, a dresser and other non-actors to fill their parts, which involve quoting philosophers such as Plato and Aristotle to mark the passing of time within the play.

The alternate history action ends where it began, with Sabina dusting the living room and worrying about George’s arrival from the office.

Her final act is to address the audience and turn over the responsibility of continuing the action, or life, to them.

I have never forgotten for long at a time that living is struggle.

I know that every good and excellent thing in the world stands moment by moment on the razor-edge of danger and must be fought for — whether it is a field, or a home, or a country.

(The Skin of Our Teeth, Thornton Wilder)

In his novel The Ides of March (1948), Wilder reconstructed the characters and events leading to, and culminating in, the assassination of Julius Caesar.

Above: Roman general / statesman Julius Caesar (100 – 44 BC)

He had met Jean-Paul Sartre on a US lecture tour after the war.

He was under the influence of existentialism, although rejecting its atheist implications.

Above: French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre (1905 – 1980)

Many great writers have been extraordinarily awkward in daily exchange, but the greatest give the impression that their style was nursed by the closest attention to colloquial speech.”

(Thornton Wilder interview, Writers at Work)

In 1962 and 1963, Wilder lived for 20 months in the small town of Douglas, Arizona, apart from family and friends.

There he started his longest novel, The Eighth Day, which went on to win the National Book Award.

According to Harold Augenbraum in 2009, it “attacked the big questions head on, embedded in the story of small-town America“.

“It is only in appearance that time is a river.

It is rather a vast landscape and it is the eye of the beholder that moves.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

During a weekend gathering of the Ashley and Lansing families, Breckenridge Lansing is shot while the men are practicing shooting.

Townsfolk suspect that Eustacia Lansing, Breckenridge’s wife, and John Ashley were having an affair.

Ashley is tried, convicted, and sentenced to execution.

Miraculously, days before the scheduled execution, he is rescued by mysterious masked men.

He then escapes to Chile, where he assumes the identity of a Canadian named James Tolland and finds work in the copper mining industry.

“Those who are silent, self-effacing and attentive become the recipient of confidences.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

While Ashley escapes to Chile, his family — left destitute without his income — turns to running a boarding house to make ends meet.

His son, Roger, assumes a fake name and moves to Chicago.

After working a series of odd jobs, Roger makes a name for himself as a writer for a newspaper.

Ashley’s daughter, Lily, also assumes a fake name and becomes a famous singer in Chicago, later moving to New York.

Hope, like faith, is nothing if it is not courageous.

It is nothing if it is not ridiculous.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

At the end of the book, it is revealed that a group of Native Americans, one of whom was friends with Roger, is responsible for helping Ashley escape his execution.

The group did this because, after a flood wiped out their local church, Ashley loaned them money to rebuild it.

It is also revealed that Ashley did not kill Lansing.

Lansing’s son George did, because Lansing was becoming violent towards his wife, George’s mother.

George feared for his mother’s safety, and consequently killed his father and then ran away to San Francisco, and later Russia, to work as an actor.

A sense of humour judges one’s actions and the actions of others from a wider reference and a longer view and finds them incongrous.

It dampens enthusiasm.

It mocks hope.

It pardons shortcomings.

It consoles failure.

It recommends moderation.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

Though there is a murder mystery in the novel, the main focus of the work is the history of the Ashley and Lansing families.

Wilder muses frequently on the nature of written history throughout the book.

Towards the end, he writes:

There is only one history.

It began with the creation of man and will come to an end when the last human consciousness is extinguished.

All other beginnings and endings are arbitrary conventions — makeshifts parading as self-sufficient entireties.

The cumbrous shears of the historian cut out a few figures and a brief passage of time from that enormous tapestry.

Above and below the laceration, to the right and left of it, the severed threads protest against the injustice, against the imposture.

Above: Thornton Wilder

The book concludes with a number of flash-forwards describing the rest of the lives of the characters.

Ashley’s wife, Beata, moves to Los Angeles and starts a boarding house there.

Roger marries one of Lansing’s daughters.

Ashley’s daughter Sophia suffers from dementia and moves into a sanitarium.

Ashley’s daughter Constance becomes a political activist and moves to Japan.

We do not choose the day of our birth nor may we choose the day of our death, yet choice is the sovereign faculty of the mind.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

His last novel, Theophilus North, was published in 1973.

It was made into the film Mr. North in 1988.

In 1920s Newport, Rhode Island, Theophilus North is an engaging, multi-talented middle class Yale University graduate who spends the summer catering to the wealthy families of the city.

He becomes the confidant of James McHenry Bosworth, and a tutor and tennis coach to the families’ children.

He also befriends many from the city’s servant class including Henry Simmons, Amelia Cranston and Sally Boffin.

Man is not an end but a beginning.

We are at the beginning of the second week.

We are the children of the eighth day.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

Complications arise when some residents begin to ascribe healing powers to the static electricity shocks that Mr. North happens to generate frequently.

Despite never claiming any healing or medical abilities, he is accused of quackery and with the help of those he had befriended must defend himself.

In the end, Mr. North accepts a position of leadership at an educational and philosophical academy founded by Mr. Bosworth and begins a romance with Bosworth’s granddaughter Persis.

When God loves a creature he wants the creature to know the highest happiness and the deepest misery.

He wants him to know all that being alive can bring.

That is His best gift.

There is no happiness save in understanding the whole.”

(The Eighth Day, Thornton Wilder)

Donald Richie (17 April 1924 – 2013) was an American-born author who wrote about the Japanese people, the culture of Japan and, especially, Japanese cinema.

Richie was a prolific author.

Above: Donald Richie

Among his most noted works on Japan are The Inland Sea, a travel classic, and Public People, Private People, a look at some of Japan’s most significant and most mundane people.

The Inland Sea is nearly a land-locked body of water bounded by three of Japan’s four major islands.

It has been called “the Aegean of the East“, bounded as it is by the Honshu mainland on one side and the various lands of the Japanese archipelago on the other.

The people who live with the Seto Naikai, a name meaning “the sea within the straits”, remain isolated from each other and from the mainland.

The travels are real.

The chronology is real.

The people are real.

The places are all real.

They are there in the Inland Sea, within easy reach of the enterprising traveller.

The history and folklore are also real.

One’s thoughts about Japan tend to be contradictory.

And this is fitting in a land where mutual contradictions are entertained with no seeming inconvenience.

Consistency is no great virtue.

Indeed, the quite consistent is the quite dead.

We must all remember that for the Westerner, Japan is a great mirror.

In it we can see the land and the people clearly – but we can also see ourselves.

I hear that they are building a bridge

To the island of Tsu

Alas…

To what now

Shall I compare myself?”

(Old Japanese poem)

He compiled two collections of essays on Japan: 

  • A Lateral View 
  • Partial Views

A collection of his writings has been published to commemorate 50 years of writing about Japan: 

  • The Donald Richie Reader 
  • The Japan Journals: 1947–2004 consists of extended excerpts from his diaries

Cynthia Ozick (born 17 April 1928) is an American short story writer, novelist, and essayist.

Ozick’s fiction and essays are often about Jewish American life, but she also writes about politics, history, and literary criticism.

In addition, she has written and translated poetry.

Above: Cynthia Ozick

She thought:

How hard it is to change one’s life.

And again she thought:

How terrifyingly simple to change the lives of others.

(Foreign Bodies, Cynthia Ozick)

Henry James occupies a central place in her fiction and nonfiction.

The critic Adam Kirsch wrote that her “career-long agon with Henry James reaches a kind of culmination in Foreign Bodies, her polemical rewriting of ‘The Ambassadors“.

Above: American author Henry James (1843 – 1916)

Sometimes starting is so difficult, because it is all chaos.

It is the difference between writing an essay, which if it is about Henry James, at least you know that much, but with fiction you don’t.

It could be a scene in your mind or it could be some kind of tendril that you can barely define.

So I have to force it.

And then after – this is real compulsion, real self-flagellation – it kind of takes off.

But there is a lot of agony before.

And sometimes during.

And sometimes all through.

But just before the end and revelations start coming, that’s the joy.

But mostly that’s Hell.”

(The Guardian, 4 July 2011, Cythnia Ozick)

Above: Cynthia Ozick

The Holocaust and its aftermath is also a dominant theme.

Above: “Selection” of Hungarian Jews on the ramp at Auschwitz II-Birkenau in German-occupied Poland, around May 1944. Jews were sent either to work or to the gas chamber. 

For instance in “Who Owns Anne Frank?” she writes that the diary’s true meaning has been distorted and eviscerated “by blurb and stage, by shrewdness and naiveté, by cowardice and spirituality, by forgiveness and indifference“. 

Above: German Jewess diarist Anne Frank (1929 – 1945)

I don’t think one writes for immortality.

I think beginning writers always think they will have fame.

But if fame – which is power – is what you want, then you will get it, probably.

But it is not something necessary to want or need.

(NPR, 17 July 2016, Cynthia Ozick)

Above: Logo of National Public Radio

Much of her work explores the disparaged self, the reconstruction of identity after immigration, trauma and movement from one class to another.

Above: Cynthia Ozick

I think the word is intractable.

I blame the lack of live and let live.

And which side is ıt coming from more than the other side?

I think it is coming from people who call other people infidels.

That’s how it strikes me.”

(The Guardian, 4 July 2011, Cynthia Ozick)

Ozick says that writing is not a choice but “a kind of hallucinatory madness.

You will do it no matter what.

You can’t not do it.

She sees the “freedom in the delectable sense of making things up” as coexisting with the “torment” of writing.

Above: Cynthia Ozick

I cannot not write.

I mean, what else am I going to do with my life?

That’s another way of putting it.

I simply must.

Writers cannot help themselves.

In a way they are sort of like the Queen of England.

Every writer is doomed to their profession.

What else is the Queen going to do with her life?

She was born a Queen.

She’s stuck.

And writers are stuck, too.

(NPR, 17 July 2016, Cythnia Ozick)

Above: Cynthia Oznick

The Pagan Rabbi and Other Stories (1971) is the second book and first collection of stories published by American author Cynthia Ozick. 

I always knew that this was what I wanted to do.

I think this is true of most writers — especially anybody who has read ‘Little Women’, which is every writer.

Not so much the male writers, let’s admit it, but every writer who grows up has wanted to be Jo.

(NPR, 17 July 2016, Cynthia Ozick)

Above: Cythnia Ozick

The Pagan Rabbi is about a rabbi who had just committed suicide by hanging himself in a public park.

He is remembered by his widow for having recently discovered a passion for nature and his widow felt that he left his beliefs of Judaism for Paganism.

Envy is about an American Yiddish poet who is bitterly jealous of his more-successful contemporary.

The main character also has a personal vendetta against televangelists who are attempting to convert Jews to Christianity.

The Suitcase is about a retired Imperial German fighter pilot, whose son is a well-recognized artist.

One of the artist’s friends finds that her purse has been stolen, and they try to figure out who stole it.

The woman who lost her purse accuses the father of the artist, because he was in the Imperial German army.

The Butterfly and the Traffic Light is basically an argument between a college girl and her professor about how traffic lights are the icons of American cities.

The Shawl follows Rosa, her baby Magda, and her niece Stella on their march to a Nazi concentration camp in the middle of winter.

They are described as weak and starving during the march.

Stella’s knees are described as “tumors on sticks“.

Rosa is said to be a “walking cradle” because she constantly carries Magda close to her chest wrapped in her shawl.

Rosa contemplates handing Magda off to one of the villagers watching their march, but decides that the guards would most likely just shoot them both.

Rosa says the shawl is “magic” when Magda sucks on it because it sustained Magda for three days and three nights without food.

Stella observes that Magda looks Aryan, but Rosa sees the observation as some kind of threat to Magda.

At the camp, Rosa continues to hide Magda, but is in constant fear that someone will discover and kill her.

If you’re alone too much, you think too much.”, Persky said.

Without a life, a person lives where they can.

If all they got is thoughts, that’s where they live.”, Rosa answered

(The Shawl, Cynthia Ozick)

One day, Stella takes Magda’s shawl away to warm herself.

Without her shawl, Magda, who hadn’t made a sound since the march, begins screaming for her “Ma“.

Rosa hears the screaming, but does not run to Magda because the guards will kill them both.

Instead, she runs to get the shawl and begins waving it in the hope that Magda will see it and calm down.

She is too late and watches as the Nazi guards pick Magda up and throw her into the electric fence, killing her.

Rosa stuffs the shawl into her mouth to stop herself from screaming.

This is very nice, cozy. You got a nice cozy place, Lublin.

Cramped,” Rosa said.

I work from a different theory.

For everything, there’s a bad way of describing, also a good way.

You pick the good way, you go along better.

I don’t like to give myself lies.

Life is short.

We all got to lie.”, Rosa said.

(The Shawl, Cynthia Ozick)

Ozick was inspired to write The Shawl by a line in the book The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich by William L. Shirer.

The book mentioned a real event, a baby being thrown into an electric fence.

Ozick was struck by the brutality of the death camp and felt inspired to write about that event.

Because she fears the past she distrusts the future — it, too, will turn into the past.

(The Shawl, Cynthia Ozick)

Nick Hornby (born 17 April 1957) is an English writer and lyricist.

He is best known for his memoir Fever Pitch (1992) and novels High Fidelity and About a Boy, all of which were adapted into feature films.

Hornby’s work frequently touches upon music, sport, and the aimless and obsessive natures of his protagonists.

His books have sold more than 5 million copies worldwide as of 2018. 

In a 2004 poll for the BBC, Hornby was named the 29th most influential person in British culture.

He has received two Academy Awards for Best Adapted Screenplay nominations for An Education (2009), and Brooklyn (2015).

Prior to his career as a novelist, Hornby worked for a time as a secondary-school English teacher.

Above: Nick Hornby

Fever Pitch, published in 1992, is an autobiographical story detailing his fanatical support for Arsenal Football Club. 

I fell in love with football as I was later to fall in love with women: suddenly, inexplicably, uncritically, giving no thought to the pain or disruption it would bring with it.

(Fever Pitch, Nick Hornby)

It consists of several chapters in chronological order, from the time the author first became a football fan as a child until his early 30s.

Each chapter is about a football match that he remembers watching, most but not all at Arsenal Stadium, Highbury, and how it related to the events that were going on with his life.

By the early 70s I had become an Englishman — that is to say, I hated England just as much as half my compatriots seemed to do.

Above: Flag of England

As well as recounting Arsenal’s highs and lows, Hornby talks about other football clubs that play in London, and his interest in the contrasting surroundings of Cambridge United and Cambridge City, whose matches he attends while at university.

As I get older, the tyranny that football exerts over my life, and therefore over the lives of the people around me, is less reasonable and less attractive.

(Fever Pitch, Nick Hornby)

As a result, Hornby received the William Hill Sports Book of the Year Award.

In 1997, the memoir was adapted for film in the UK, and in 2005 an American remake was released, following Jimmy Fallon’s character’s obsession with the Boston Red Sox, a baseball team.

With the book’s success, Hornby began to publish articles in the Sunday Times, Time Out and the Times Literary Supplement, in addition to his music reviews for the New Yorker.

High Fidelity — his third book and first novel — was published in 1995.

Rob Fleming is a 35-year-old man who owns a record shop in London called Championship Vinyl.

His lawyer girlfriend, Laura, has just left him and now he is going through a crisis.

At his record shop, Rob and his employees, Dick and Barry, spend their free moments discussing mix-tape aesthetics and constructing desert-island “top-five” lists of anything that demonstrates their knowledge of music, movies, and pop culture.

Rob uses this exercise to create his own list: “The top five most memorable split-ups.”

This list includes the following ex-girlfriends:

1) Alison Ashworth

2) Penny Hardwick

3) Jackie Allen

4) Charlie Nicholson

5) Sarah Kendrew

Where’s the superficial?

I was, and therefore am, dim, gloomy, a drag, unfashionable, unfanciable, and awkward.

This doesn’t seem like superficial to me.

These aren’t flesh wounds.

These are life-threatening thrusts into the internal organs.

(High Fidelity, Nick Hornby)

Rob, recalling these breakups, sets about getting in touch with the former girlfriends.

Eventually, Rob’s re-examination of his failed relationships, a one-time stand with an American musician named Marie LaSalle, and the death of Laura’s father bring the two back together.

Their relationship is cemented by the launch of a new purposefulness to Rob’s life in the revival of his disc jockey career.

I’ve been thinking with my guts since I was fourteen years old, and, frankly, I think my guts have shit for brains.

(High Fidelity, Nick Hornby)

Also, realizing that his fear of commitment (a result of his fear of death of those around him) and his tendency to act on emotion are responsible for his continuing desires to pursue new women, Rob makes a token commitment to Laura.

Then I lost it.

Kinda lost it all, you know.

Faith, dignity, about fifteen pounds.

(High Fidelity, Nick Hornby)

The novel, about a neurotic record collector and his failed relationships, was adapted into a 2000 American film starring John Cusack, a Broadway musical in 2006, and a television show High Fidelity starring Zoë Kravitz in 2020.

His second novel, About a Boy, published in 1998, is about two boys — Marcus, an awkward yet endearing adolescent from a single-parent family, and the free-floating, mid-30s Will Freeman, who overcomes his own immaturity and self-centredness through his growing relationship with Marcus.

Set in 1993 London, About a Boy features two main protagonists:

  • Will Freeman, a 36-year-old bachelor
  • Marcus Brewer, a 12-year-old incongruous schoolboy described as “introverted by his suicidal mother, Fiona, despite his tendencies to bond and interact with people.

Will’s father wrote a successful Christmas song, the royalties of which have afforded Will the ability to remain voluntarily redundant throughout his life – he spends his plentiful free time immersing himself in 1990s culture, music, and pursuing sexual relations with women.

There had been times when he knew, somewhere in him, that he would get used to it, whatever it was, because he had learnt that some hard things became softer after a very little while.

(About a Boy, Nick Hornby)

After a pleasant relationship with a single mother of two, Angie, Will comes up with the idea of attending a single parents group as a new way to pick up women.

For this purpose, he invents a two-year-old son called Ned.

Will then makes a number of acquaintances through his membership of the single parents group, two of which are Fiona and her son Marcus.

Although their relationship is initially somewhat strained, they finally succeed in striking up a true friendship despite Will being largely uninterested during the early-middle stages of the novel.

Will, a socially aware and “trendy” person, aids Marcus to fit into 1990s youth culture by encouraging him not to get his hair cut by his mother, buying him Adidas trainers, and introducing him to contemporary music, such as Nirvana.

Marcus and Will’s friendship strengthens as the story progresses, even after Marcus and Fiona discover Will’s lie about having a child.

Single mothers — bright, attractive, available women, thousands of them all over London — they were the best invention Will had ever heard of.

(About a Boy, Nick Hornby)

Marcus is befriended by Ellie McCrae, a tough, moody 15-year-old girl, who is constantly in trouble at school because she insists on wearing a Kurt Cobain jumper.

He also spends some time with his dad Clive, who visits Marcus and Fiona for Christmas together with his new girlfriend Lindsey and her mother.

Clive has a minor accident during some D.I.Y. work and breaks his collarbone.

This prompts Clive into having “a big think” about the meaning of his life.

He summons Marcus to Cambridge to see him.

Marcus decides to bring Ellie along with him for support.

However, they are arrested on the way as Ellie smashes a shop window displaying a cardboard cut-out of Kurt Cobain – accusing the shopkeeper of “trying to make money out of him” after his suicide.

Each day was a bad day, but he survived by kidding himself that each day was somehow unconnected to the day before.

(About a Boy, Nick Hornby)

Meanwhile, to Will’s despair, he falls in love with a woman called Rachel.

Rachel is a single mother with a son named Ali (Alistair), who is the same age as Marcus.

The two originally fight, but quickly become friends.

Will’s emotional faculties are liberated and he begins to “shed his old skin” of emotional indifference.

Simultaneously Marcus is becoming more typical of his age.

He begins to enjoy his life more.

These feelings were exactly what he had been so afraid of, and this was why he had been so sure that falling in love was rubbish, and, surprise surprise, it was rubbish, and … and it was too late.

(About a Boy, Nick Hornby)

The penultimate scene takes place in a police station in Royston (a small suburban town), where nearly every significant character in the novel is present, their common link being Marcus.

The novel ends during a three-way dialogue between Marcus, Will and Fiona, where Will, to see if Marcus has truly changed, proposes the idea that he play a Joni Mitchell song on Fiona’s piano, which she is enthusiastic about.

However, Marcus responds saying he “hates” Joni Mitchell, whereby Hornby concludes the novel with the narration saying:

Will knew Marcus would be OK“.

Hugh Grant and Nicholas Hoult starred in the 2002 film version.

In 1999, Hornby received the E. M. Forster Award of the American Academy of Arts and Letters.

Hornby’s next novel, How to Be Good, was published in 2001.

The female protagonist in the novel explores contemporary morals, marriage and parenthood.

What if a sense of humour is like hair — something a lot of man lose as they get older?

(How to Be Good, Nick Hornby)

It centers on characters Katie Carr, a doctor, and her husband, David Grant.

The story begins when David stops being “the Angriest Man In Holloway” and begins to be “good” with the help of his spiritual healer, DJ Good News (who also shows up briefly in Hornby’s A Long Way Down).

The pair go about this by nominally convincing people to give their spare bedrooms to the homeless, but as their next scheme comes around, “reversal” (being good to people one has not been good to in the past), this proves to be fruitless and thus David gives up his strivings and his plans for a book on how to be good, appropriately named “How to be Good“.

The protagonist, Katie, briefly encounters a minor character named Dick whose description and attitude towards music are reminiscent of the character of the same name from Hornby’s first novel, High Fidelity.

It was longlisted for the Man Booker Prize in 2001.

He won the W.H. Smith Award for Fiction in 2002.

And after tea, we play Junior Scrabble. We are the ideal nuclear family. We eat together, we play improving board games instead of watching television, we smile alot. I fear that at any moment I may kill somebody.”

(How to Be Good, Nick Hornby)

Part of the money he earned with his next book, Speaking with the Angel in 2002, was donated to TreeHouse, a charity for autistic children:

Hornby’s own son is autistic.

He was editor of the book, which contained 12 short stories written by his friends.

He also contributed to the collection with the story “NippleJesus“.

Self-pity is an ignoble emotion, but we all feel it, and the orthodox critical line that it represents some kind of artistic flaw is dubious, a form of emotional correctness.

(Songbook, Nick Hornby)

In 2003, Hornby wrote a collection of essays on selected popular songs and the emotional resonance they carry, called 31 Songs (known in the US as Songbook).

Indeed, there is a moment on the first CD — the electrifying opening to “I Got Loaded,” which sounds like an R&B standard but isn’t — when you might find yourself asking whether anyone who has ever been smitten by pop music can fail to have his heart stopped by the chords, the swing, and, once again, Steve Berlin’s wonderfully greasy sax.

(Songbook, Nick Hornby)

A Long Way Down is a 2005 novel written by British author Nick Hornby.

It is a dark comedy, playing off the themes of suicide, angst, depression and promiscuity.

The story is written in the first-person narrative from the points of view of the four main characters, Martin, Maureen, Jess and JJ.

These four strangers happen to meet on the roof of a high building called Toppers House in London on New Year’s Eve, each with the intent of committing suicide.

Their plans for death in solitude are ruined when they meet.

The novel recounts their misadventures as they decide to come down from the roof alive – however temporarily that may be.

Disgraced TV presenter Martin Sharp, lonely single mother Maureen (51 years old), unsuccessful musician JJ and rude teenager Jess (18 years old) meet at Toppers House in London on New Year’s Eve.

They all want to commit suicide by jumping from the roof.

Their plans for death in solitude, however, are ruined when they meet.

After telling their individual stories to the others, they decide to hold off on jumping and to help each other.

Thus a group of four unfortunate and very individual people forms.

Jess’s condition not to jump is that they help her to find her ex-boyfriend Chas.

So they take a taxi and drive to the party they suppose Chas to be at.

After finding and talking to Chas they decide to go to Martin’s place where they find Penny, who has obviously been crying.

She accuses Martin of cheating on her because he had left the party they had both attended that evening without any explanation.

“I’m sorry, but there’s no disturbed mental balance here, my friend.

I’d say he got it just right.

Bad thing upon bad thing upon bad thing.

Surely that’s fair enough?

Surely the coroner’s report should read:

“He took his own life after sober and careful contemplation of the fucking shambles it had become.”

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

The next morning Jess’s dad learns that the newspapers are publishing a story about Jess and Martin.

Jess tells him that she slept with Martin, to avoid him finding out the truth of her attempted suicide.

He takes her to task because the whole thing is very awkward for him.

He is the Junior Secretary of Education and has a reputation to lose.

He goes out to get an early edition of the paper and sees the story about her ‘suicide pact‘ with Martin, so Jess’s “whole sex confession bit had been a complete and utter fucking waste of time“.

I’m sorry, but there’s no disturbed mental balance here, my friend.

I’d say he got it just right.

Bad thing upon bad thing upon bad thing.

Surely that’s fair enough?

Surely the coroner’s report should read:

“He took his own life after sober and careful contemplation of the fucking shambles it had become.

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

Jess’s father asks Martin to clear up the accusations.

Martin denies that he slept with Jess.

After the conversation, her father asks Martin to protect Jess and gives him money.

Afterwards, a reporter calls JJ wanting to know why they decided not to jump, but JJ refuses to discuss it.

But I’d felt as if I’d pissed my life away in the same way that you can piss money away.

I’d had a life, full of kids and wives and jobs and all the usual stuff, and I had somehow managed to mislay it.

No, you see, that’s not right.

I knew where my life was, just as you know where the money goes when you piss it away.

I hadn’t mislaid it at all.

I had spent it.

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

Later Jess calls Maureen.

They decide to organise a meeting at Maureen’s place.

At the meeting, Jess suggests that they try to profit from the suicidal-report in the newspaper.

Her idea is to confess to the press that they saw an angel who saved them from jumping.

Martin, Maureen and JJ don’t like the idea and they try to convince Jess out of talking to the press.

The next morning they find out that Jess told a reporter, Linda, that they saw an angel that looked like Matt Damon.

Jess also promised Linda an interview with Martin, Maureen and JJ.

Although they are upset with Jess’ behaviour, they decide to do the interview.

Linda uses the interview to attack Martin in the press.

Thus Martin is fired from his cable TV “Feet Up TV!”, but he receives a second chance by promising to his boss that the other three will be guests in his show.

The show is a disaster and Martin loses his job.

At another TV show Jess admits that the angel story was not true.

And another way of explaining it is that shit happens, and there’s no space too small, too dark and airless and fucking hopeless, for people to crawl into.

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

Later, JJ decides that the four of them have to go on holiday for Maureen’s benefit.

Martin, Jess and JJ help Maureen to find a place for Matty, her son.

One week later they are on a plane to Tenerife.

On the second day, Jess sees a girl who looks very similar to her lost sister Jen.

Jess bothers the girl and they have a fight.

Out of frustration Jess gets drunk and the police have to take her back to the hotel.

JJ meets a girl that saw his old band and they spend the night together.

Martin decides to leave the hotel after a fight with Jess.

During his absence from the others, he thinks about his life and decides that he has made no mistakes.

He blames other people for how his life has turned out.

In the taxi to the airport they talk about their holiday and plan another meeting for Valentine’s Day.

They meet at 8 o’clock on the roof of Toppers House on Valentine’s Day.

And another way of explaining it is that shit happens, and there’s no space too small, too dark and airless and fucking hopeless, for people to crawl into.

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

While they have a conversation, they see a young man who is planning to jump from the roof.

They try to stop him from committing suicide but he jumps.

They decide to go home and to meet the following afternoon at Starbucks.

I couldn’t get the mood back; it was as if one of the kids had woken up just as Cindy and I were starting to make love. I hadn’t changed my mind, and I still knew that I’d have to do it sometime. It’s just that I knew I wasn’t going to be able to do it in the next five minutes.”

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

Martin tells them about a newspaper article he read according to which people who want to commit suicide need 90 days to overcome their predicament.

So they decide to hold their decision until 31 March.

Maureen and Jess decide to visit Martin’s ex-wife Cindy to bring her back to him.

Cindy Sharp lives with her kids in Torley Heath and has a new partner Paul, whom Maureen and Jess later find out is blind.

Cindy explains to them that Martin made many mistakes and that he didn’t take care of the children.

After that, Jess organises a meeting in the basement of Starbucks.

She invites relatives of the four.

All in all, 17 people appear, but the meeting is a disaster.

Jess and her parents are screaming at each other, because her mother claims that she had stolen a pair of earrings from Jen’s untouched room.

While they are fighting Jess runs out of the Starbucks.

JJ and a former member of his band are leaving the basement to have a fight and Martin has an argument with one of Maureen’s nurses because he claims that he is flirting with Penny.

Maureen is the only one of the four who is still present.

She talks to Jess’ parents and speculates that Jen may have come back to take the earrings.

The nurses Sean and Stephen help Maureen to bring Matty home and on the way Sean asks her if she is interested in joining their quiz team.

At the quiz, an old man from the team offers Maureen a job in a newsagent’s.

When Jess comes back from her trip to London Bridge, her mother apologizes for accusing her.

Jess accepts the apology, seeing the hope Maureen’s suggestion has given her mother.

Maureen, JJ and Martin have new jobs now.

Martin is a teacher and wants to start a new life.

JJ is a busker and is happy to make music again.

Maureen has started work at the newsagent’s.

The 90 days have passed and they meet in a pub near Toppers House.

They decide to go on the roof again.

While watching the London Eye from the roof, they realise that their lives aren’t that bad.

They decide to delay their final decision on killing themselves for another six months.

I wanted to make my life short, and I was at a party in Toppers’ Hose, and the coincidence was too much.

It was like a message from God.

OK, it was disappointing that all God had to say to me was, like, jump off a roof, but I didn’t blame Him.

What else was He supposed to tell me?

(A Long Way Down, Nick Hornby)

Hornby’s book Slam was published on 16 October 2007.

It is his first novel for young adults and was recognised as a 2008 ALA Best Books for Young Adults.

The protagonist of Slam is a 16-year-old skateboarder named Sam, whose life changes drastically when his girlfriend gets pregnant.

The novel’s protagonist is a troubled 16-year-old skateboarder, Sam, who lives in London.

His mother, Annie, gave birth to him when she was just 16.

They therefore have an unconventional relationship.

He has a poster of Tony Hawk in his room that serves as his friend and confidant.

Sam’s two best friends are Rabbit and Rubbish, two skateboarders.

Sam’s father, Dave, is somewhat estranged from the family, visiting them only occasionally.

After being introduced to Alicia at a party thrown by Annie’s co-worker, Andrea, Sam and Alicia start dating.

He believes he is in love with her and visits her numerous times, almost daily, in which they have sex several times.

However, one time Sam and Alicia try having sex not wearing protection.

Sam knows that due to him having sex with Alicia without a condom, she might be pregnant.

He’s just not ready to be a father.

After a while, Sam gets bored of his relationship and decides to break up.

A while later, Alicia calls him to meet so they can talk. Sam, realizing what news she has, has a prophetic dream of waking up next to Alicia in the future.

She is ugly and heavy, and their baby, Roof, is loud and obnoxious.

He attends the local college occasionally throughout the week, pursuing a career in art and design.

Moreover, Annie is pregnant.

Sam awakens the next morning.

He is back to his normal time and presumes that he was sent in the future by the mystical powers of his Tony Hawk poster.

In fear of the obvious news that Alicia will give him, he runs away to Hastings and throws his mobile phone in the sea.

Thinking he can make a permanent residence there, Sam goes to several attractions, only to be told there is no work.

While in a seedy bed and breakfast, Sam meets a rude old man, Mr Brady, that hires him as a helper with various day-to-day activities (helping him up and down the stairs, and retrieving his remote control).

In the middle of the night, Mr Brady barges into his room demanding he helps him find the remote that has fallen behind his bed.

Sam grudgingly retrieves it, only to decide that he no longer wants to stay in the town.

Above: Hastings, England

He returns home to Annie who has called the police.

After spending some time with Annie, Sam and Alicia meet up and she reveals that she is in fact pregnant.

Refusing to get an abortion, Alicia and Sam work up the nerve to tell Alicia’s elitist parents, Andrea and Robert.

Originally upset, Andrea and Robert try to convince Alicia to have an abortion.

When Alicia refuses, Andrea and Robert lash out and blame Sam for ruining Alicia’s life.

Sam, Alicia, Andrea and Robert march over to Sam’s apartment, only to find Annie with her new boyfriend Mark.

When told of the pregnancy, Annie breaks down and cries, furious that Sam would ruin his life.

That night, Sam has another prophetic dream in which he takes Roof (the name, he finds, being a contraction of Rufus) to a doctor’s appointment.

Again, Sam has no idea how to take care of Roof and no idea what is going on.

Sam upsets his son Rufus, and he again, realizes he is not a suitable father.

Fortunately, he meets with a young mother – whom he does not know, but who seems to know him – and gets her to show him how to change Roof’s diapers, though she says:

But you are very good at doing it.”

When waking up he realizes that, like it or not, he is going to have a life of taking care of his son.

Gradually, he gets used to the idea.

As soon as Mark moves into their house, Annie becomes pregnant.

Sam moves into Alicia’s house only to find that he really isn’t welcome there.

He begins to take part-time college classes.

He encounters one of Alicia’s previous boyfriends who insinuates that Sam’s son Rufus is actually his.

He confronts Alicia when he believes that she conveniently made it look like it was his child – which she angrily disproves, but the scene adds to spoiling their relationship.

He moves back into his mother’s apartment, resulting in him researching the Internet for facts about teenage pregnancies.

He discovers that four out of five male teenage parents lose contact with their children.

He goes to Alicia’s and begins to row with Alicia, resulting in her thinking he is seeing another girl.

Eventually Alicia’s parents clear the matter up.

When Alicia’s time comes, Sam is very confused, but eventually does manage in a credible way the role of being at her side.

He then finds out the origin of the baby’s name – when recovering from birth-giving Alicia was listening to Rufus Wainwright.

It was Sam himself who changed it to “Roof“.

Soon afterwards, Sam’s mother gives birth to a daughter, Emily – who is strictly Roof’s aunt, though being a month younger than him.

Sam gets involved in taking care of Emily, too.

Soon after this Sam and Alicia take Rufus out for the day with Alicia and Sam having sex later.

Alicia’s mum discovers them and gets particularly angry.

Sam and Alicia finally confirm to each other they were from the beginning wrong for each other.

Then Sam has a third prophetic dream, presumably a few years in the future.

He wakes up with a beautiful girl he doesn’t know.

It is revealed she is his current girlfriend, Alex, as Alicia and he broke up.

The two go to meet Alicia and her new boyfriend, Carl, in a restaurant.

It is made clear that Alicia is the primary caretaker of the baby, but that she and Sam still have a friendly relationship.

Hornby’s following novel, titled Juliet, Naked, was published in September 2009.

Addressing similar themes as his earlier novel High Fidelity, the book is about a reclusive 1980s rock star who is forced out of isolation, after the release of demo recordings of the songs on his most famous album brings him into contact with some of his most passionate fans.

Duncan, an obsessive music fan, receives a CD of Juliet, Naked, an album of solo acoustic demos of the songs on the album Juliet by his favourite artist, Tucker Crowe.

Duncan’s girlfriend, Annie, opens it first and listens to it on her own.

Duncan is angry, especially when she expresses her dislike for it.

He writes an enthusiastic review for the fan website he runs.

Annie writes a passionate article criticising it and receives an email response from Tucker Crowe himself. Further email correspondence ensues, much of which consumes Annie’s thoughts.

Tucker Crowe is in Pennsylvania preparing for a visit from his daughter Lizzie, whom he has never met.

He has five children from four relationships.

His youngest son Jackson and Jackson’s mother, Cat, are the only ones he lives with.

Lizzie reveals that she is visiting because she is pregnant.

Duncan meets a new colleague called Gina, whom he sleeps with.

He tells Annie of his affair and she insists he move out.

The next day Annie talks to her judgmental therapist Malcolm.

Duncan regrets leaving Annie but she refuses to take him back.

Cat breaks up with Tucker, but Tucker remains to look after Jackson.

Annie places a photo of Tucker and Jackson on her fridge and invites Duncan round to make him see it, gleeful that he doesn’t know the significance of it, and tells him she is in a relationship with him.

She ponders the years she has wasted with Duncan and ends up going to the pub with her friend Ros.

She meets Gav and Barnesy, two Northern Soul dancers.

Barnesy comes back to her house and tells her he loves her, but leaves after she says she won’t sleep with him.

Annie discusses the incident the next day with Malcolm.

Tucker learns that Lizzie has lost the baby.

He and Jackson fly to London to see Lizzie.

On arrival at the hospital in London, Tucker has a heart attack and is admitted.

Lizzie invites all his children and their mothers to visit for a family reunion.

A mini-narrative describes the events which caused Tucker to end his career after hearing that he had a daughter, Grace, from the relationship before/during Juliet.

Annie visits him in the hospital.

He suggests staying at her house to avoid the family reunion.

The next day Annie visits again.

Annie discovers he had not yet met with Grace.

Tucker tells her about Grace and Juliet.

Annie insists he call his family.

They discuss his work.

Tucker sees it as inauthentic rubbish, while Annie thinks it is deep and meaningful music while clarifying that while the music is good, it doesn’t mean that Tucker as a person is good.

She also admits that she was in a relationship with Duncan, whom Tucker knows of from the website.

Annie encourages Tucker to meet Duncan, but he refuses.

The next day, they bump into Duncan.

Tucker introduces himself, but Duncan doesn’t believe him.

After considering it, Duncan comes over.

Tucker shows Duncan his passport as proof.

They have tea together.

Tucker clarifies some of Duncan’s beliefs about him, while Duncan expresses his love of his music.

Grace calls Tucker.

She says she understands how he and she can’t be close because it would mean giving up Juliet.

An exhibition Annie has been working on opens at the Gooleness Museum, where she works as a curator.

She suggests that Tucker could open it, but the councillor in charge says he’s never heard of him and invites Gav and Barnsey to do it instead.

At the party, Annie admits to Tucker that she likes him romantically.

Afterwards they have sex.

Annie says she has used a contraceptive, but she hadn’t.

Tucker and Jackson return to America.

Annie tells Malcolm about it all and tells him that she would like to sell her house and move right away to America to join Tucker and Jackson.

Malcolm’s paternalistic comment make her realise that she needs to leave England.

In the epilogue, Duncan and other fans review on the fan website a new release from Tucker, which they think is terrible.

One of them writes ‘Happiness Is Poison‘.

Only one new member says she and her husband love the new album, while they find Juliet too gloomy for their liking.

In 2010, Hornby co-founded the Ministry of Stories, a non-profit organisation in East London dedicated to helping children and young adults develop writing skills and to helping teachers inspire their students to write.

 

This blog has its own missions.

I have been advised by my wife (Ute) and my social media mentor (Emir) that I should consider reducing the size of my blogposts, that we live in an ADD (attention disorder deficit) society that is both unwilling and unable to read for any extended length of time.

But the length of my posts, including this one, is to fight against this feeling.

This post’s goal is simple.

I want you to read.

Whether or not you intend to be a writer or simply long for good writing to read.

These days it is impossible to get away from discussions of whether the book will survive the digital revolution.

Blogs, tweets and newspaper articles on the subject appear daily, many of them repetitive, most of them admitting ignorance of the future.

In The Hunchback of Notre Dame, Victor Hugo put these famous words into the mouth of Archdeacon Claude Frollo:

The book will kill the building.

When you compare architecture to the idea, which needs only a sheet of paper, some ink and a pen, is it surprising that the human intellect should have deserted architecture for the printing press?”

The great cathedrals – those “Bibles in stone” – did not vanish, but the avalanche of manuscripts and then printed text that appeared at the end of the Middle Ages did render cathedrals less important. As culture changed, architecture lost its emblematic role.

So it is with the book.

Above: Notre Dame de Paris

There is no need to suppose that the electronic book will replace the printed version.

Has film killed painting?

Television cinema?

However, there is no doubt that the book is the throes of a technological revolution that is changing our relationship to it profoundly.

A book represents a sort of unsurpassable perfection in the realm of the imagination.

What is a book?

What will change if we read onscreen rather than by turning the pages of a physical object?

Old-fashioned habits, perhaps.

A certain sense of the sacred that has surrounded the book in a civilization that has made it our Holy of Holies.

A peculiar intimacy between the author and the reader, which the concept of hypertextuality is bound to damage.

A sense of existing in a self-contained world that the book and, along with it, certain ways of reading used to represent.

What we call culture is in fact a lengthy process of selection and filtering.

Contemporary civilization, armed with every conceivable kind of technology, is still attempting to conserve culture safely, without much lasting success.

However determined we are to learn from the past, our libraries, museums and film archives will only ever contain the works that time has not destroyed.

Culture is made up of what remains after everything else has been forgotten.

The Internet has returned us to the alphabet.

If we thought we had become a purely visual civilization, the computer returns us to Gutenberg’s galaxy.

From now on, everyone has to read.

In order to read, you need a medium.

This medium cannot simply be a computer screen.

Spend two hours reading a novel on your computer and your eyes turn into tennis balls.

The book is like the spoon, the scissors, the hammer, the wheel.

Once invented, it cannot be improved.

There is no doubt that a lawyer could take his 25,000 case documents home more easily if they were loaded onto an e-book.

In many areas, the electronic book will turn out to be remarkably convenient, but I remain unconvinced – even with fast-rate reading technology – that it would be particularly advisable to read War and Peace on an e-book.

Hermann Hesse had some interesting things to say about the “re-legitimization” of the book that he thought would result from technical developments:

The more the need for entertainment and mainstream education can be met by new inventions, the more the book will recover its dignity and authority.

We have not yet quite reached the point where young competitors have taken over functions from the book that it cannot afford to lose.

Above: German writer / artist Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Cinema, radio and even television have taken nothing from the book – nothing that it couldn’t afford to lose.

At a certain point of time, man invented the written word.

Writing is an extension of the hand and therefore it is almost biological.

It is the communication tool most closely linked to the body.

Once invented, it could never be given up.

We have never needed to read and write as much as we do today.

If you cannot read and write, then you cannot use a computer.

Why do we read?

Generally, to profit from it, to grow somewhere in mind or spirit.

Good books, fiction or nonfiction, deserve reading.

Ask questions while you read – questions that you yourself must try to answer in the course of reading.

There are four main questions you must ask about any book:

  1. WHAT IS THE BOOK ABOUT AS A WHOLE?

Try to discover the leading theme of the book and how the author develops this theme in an orderly way.

2. WHAT IS BEING SAID IN DETAIL AND HOW?

Try to discover the main ideas, assertions and arguments that constitute the author’s particular message.

3. IS THE BOOK TRUE, IN WHOLE OR IN PART?

You have to know what is being said before you can decide whether it is true or not. When you understand a book, however, you are obligated, if you are reading seriously, to make up your own mind.

4. WHAT OF IT?

If the book has given you information, you must ask about its significance.

Why does the author think it is important to know these things?

Is it important to you to know them?

And if the book has not only informed you, but also enlightened you, it is necessary to seek further enlightment by asking what else follows, what is further implied or suggested.

The four questions summarize the whole obligation of a reader.

Knowing what the four questions are is not enough. You must remember to ask them as you read.

Merely asking questions is not enough.

You have to try to answer them.

Grab a pen.

Full ownership of a book only comes when you have made it part of yourself.

The best way to make yourself a part of it is by writing in it.

Why is marking a book indispensible to reading it?

First, it keeps you awake.

Second, reading, if it is active, is thinking.

Thinking expresses itself in words.

The person who says he knows what he thinks but cannot express it usually does not know what he is thinking.

Why do we write?

To know what we are thinking.

Third, writing your reactions down helps you to remember the thoughts of the author.

Reading a book should be a conversation between you and the author.

Understanding is a two-way operation.

The learner has to question himself and question the teacher.

He even has to be willing to argue with the teacher, once he understands what the teacher is saying.

Marking a book is literally an expression of your differences or your agreements with the author.

It is the highest respect you can pay him.

Reading with pen in hand allows intimate communication with the writer.

We all begin as close readers.

Word by word is how we learn to hear and then read.

The more we read, the faster we can perform that magic trick of seeing how the letters have been combined into words that have meaning.

The more we read, the more we comprehend, the more likely we are to discover new ways to read, each one tailored to the reason why we are reading a particular book.

Reading a book can make you want to write one.

A work of art can start you thinking about some aesthetic or philosophical problem.

It can suggest some new method, some fresh approach to fiction.

More often the connection has to do with whatever mysterious promptings make you want to write.

The better the book, the more you imagine.

Reading a masterpiece can inspire us by showing us how a writer does something brilliantly.

Books are teachers, authorities to advise us, the models that inspire us with energy and courage to learn.

I will try to show you some writers that deserve a reading.

A movie may move us, but it demands little more than our attention.

A book demands we feel and think about what the book is trying to tell us, to use both our intelligence and our imagination.

God willing, I too will produce literature worthy of your time and attention, health and time permitting.

Put your phone down.

Turn the TV off.

Grab a book and a pen.

Begin the adventure of reading now.

Sources

  • Wikipedia
  • Wikiquote
  • Google Photos
  • How to Read a Book, Mortimer J. Adler and Charles Van Doren
  • Plot and Structure, James Scott Bell
  • The Seven Basic Plots, Christopher Booker
  • Daily Rituals, Mason Currey
  • This is NOT the end of the book, Umberto Eco and Jean-Claude Carrière
  • Reading Like a Writer, Francine Prose
  • The Assassin’s Cloak, edited by Irene and Alan Taylor

Canada Slim and the Last Battle

Eskisehir, Switzerland, Sunday 19 September 2021

As the dates below will show, this blog (The Chronicles of Canada Slim) (one of two) has suffered from neglect.

I offer only one explanation:

I have been….distracted.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

The purpose of The Chronicles of Canada Slim is to capture in writing my adventures prior to the calendar year.

Generally, the Chronicles tells the tales of travels in Alsace, Italy, Lanzarote, London, Porto, Serbia and Switzerland.

Flag of Alsace
Above: Flag of Alsace

Flag of Italy
Above: Flag of Italy

Spain Canary Islands location map Lanzarote.svg
Above: Lanzarote (red) of the Spanish Canary Islands

Above: London, England

Flag of Porto
Above: Flag of Porto, Portugal

Flag of Serbia
Above: Flag of Serbia

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

But much has been happening since the finale of my Zwingli Way Walk (recorded here): an accident which broke both my arms, work commitments, a visit to Canada, the Corona virus, and the decision to work here in Turkey.

Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis. Ein Wander- und  Lesebuch: Amazon.co.uk: Steiner, Marcel, Steiner, Yvonne: 9783858827739:  Books

Please see Canada Slim and…..

  • the City of Spirits (3 January 2016)
  • the Push for Reformation (5 January 2016)
  • the Genius of Glarus (14 August 2016)
  • the Road to Reformation (12 November 2017)
  • the Wild Child of Toggenburg (20 November 2017)
  • the Thundering Hollows (27 November 2017)
  • the Basel Butterfly Effect (3 December 2017)
  • the Vienna Waltz (9 December 2017)
  • the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul (18 December 2017)
  • the Last Walk of Robert Walser (25 December 2017)
  • the Monks of the Dark Forest (8 January 2018)
  • the Privileged Place (26 January 2018)
  • the Lakeside Pilgrimage (24 April 2018)
  • the Battlefield Brotherhood (8 July 2018)
  • the Family of Mann (12 August 2018)
  • the Anachronic Man (8 October 2018)
  • the Chocolate Factory of Unhappiness (30 January 2019)
  • the Third Man (26 June 2019)
  • the Humanitarian Adventure (10 December 2019)
  • the Succulent Collection (14 November 2020)
  • the Zürich Zealots (19 November 2020)

In defense of writing with pen and paper - The Writer

I have tried to contribute regularly to my other blog Building Everest, which tries to relate events of this calendar year along with ongoing accounts of Swiss Miss‘s world wanderings and recollections of my 2020 travels in Canada just prior to Covid-19’s impact being felt globally.

As well, other writing projects have also suffered, but as long as I breathe I will still believe that these too will eventually be accomplished.

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Above: Mount Everest

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Thursday 3 December 2020

All things end.

One day these fingers will stop typing and my mind will go silent.

One day one breath will be my last.

Death is the one commonality we all share, regardless of whether pauper or prince, peasant or president, saint or sinner.

And it is accepting this inevitability that all of us must come to grips with, in our own way, in our own time.

Save for the suicidal or the sick, few of us wake up in the morning and think to ourselves:

Perhaps today is a good day to die.

Perhaps an exception to this rule of the suicidal or the painfully sick are the lives of those in risky professions, such as health care, the police force, the military.

Above: St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Switzerland

As death is part of, and the end of, life, the question we all ask and the answer we all fear is what, if anything, follows death.

The afterlife (also referred to as life after death or the world to come) is an existence in which the essential part of an individual’s identity or their stream of consciousness continues to live after the death of their physical body.

According to various ideas about the afterlife, the essential aspect of the individual that lives on after death may be some partial element, or the entire soul or spirit, of an individual, which carries with it and may confer personal identity or, on the contrary nirvana.

Belief in an afterlife is in contrast to the belief in oblivion after death.

In some views, this continued existence takes place in a spiritual realm, and in other popular views, the individual may be reborn into this world and begin the life cycle over again, likely with no memory of what they have done in the past. In this latter view, such rebirths and deaths may take place over and over again continuously until the individual gains entry to a spiritual realm or otherworld.

Major views on the afterlife derive from religion, esotericism and metaphysics.

Some belief systems, such as those in the Abrahamic tradition, hold that the dead go to a specific plane of existence after death, as determined by God, or other divine judgment, based on their actions or beliefs during life.

In contrast, in systems of reincarnation, such as those in the Indian religions, the nature of the continued existence is determined directly by the actions of the individual in the ended life.

Above: Danube cemetery, Cernavoda, Romania

The Abrahamic religions, also collectively referred to as the world of Abrahamism, are a group of religions that claim descent from the worship of the God of Abraham, an ancient Semitic religion of the Bronze Age Israelites and the Ishmaelites, the direct predecessor of various ancient Israelite sects, including the remaining two extant Israelite religions of Judaism and Samaritanism, with all other Abrahamic religions descending from Judaism.

The Abrahamic religions are monotheistic, with the term deriving from the patriarch Abraham (a major figure described in the TorahTanakhBible, and Qu’ran, variously recognized by Jews, Samaritans, Christians, Muslims, and others).

Guercino Abramo ripudia Agar (cropped).jpg
Above: Portrait of Abraham, by Guercino, Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan, Italy

The three major Abrahamic religions trace their origins to the first two sons of Abraham: for Jews and Christians it is his second son Isaac, and for Muslims his elder son Ishmael.

Above: The Angel Hinders the Offering of Isaac, by Rembrandt, Hermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg, Russia

Abrahamic religions spread globally through Christianity being adopted by the Roman Empire in the 4th century and Islam by the Umayyad Empire from the 7th century.

Today the Abrahamic religions are one of the major divisions in comparative religion (along with Indian, Iranian and East Asian religions).

The major Abrahamic religions in chronological order of founding are Judaism (the source of the other two religions) in the 6th century BCE, Christianity in the 1st century CE, and Islam in the 7th century CE.

Christianity, Islam and Judaism are the Abrahamic religions with the greatest numbers of adherents.

Star of David
Above: The Star of David, symbol of Judaism

Principal symbol of Christianity
Above: The cross of Christ, symbol of Christianity

Above: The word “Allah” in Arabic calligraphy, symbol of Islam

Christians are people who follow or adhere to Christianity, a monotheistic Abrahamic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus Christ.

The words Christ and Christian derive from the Koine Greek title Christós (Χριστός), a translation of the Biblical Hebrew term mashiach (מָשִׁיחַ) (usually rendered as messiah in English).

While there are diverse interpretations of Christianity which sometimes conflict, they are united in believing that Jesus has a unique significance.

The term “Christian” used as an adjective is descriptive of anything associated with Christianity or Christian churches, or in a proverbial sense “all that is noble, and good, and Christlike.”

It does not have a meaning of ‘of Christ’ or ‘related or pertaining to Christ‘.

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Above: Christ the Saviour (Pantokrator), a 6th-century icon, Saint Catherine’s Monastery, Mount Sinai, Egypt

According to a 2011 Pew Research Center survey, there were 2.2 billion Christians around the world in 2010, up from about 600 million in 1910.

Today, about 37% of all Christians live in the Americas, about 26% live in Europe, 24% live in sub-Saharan Africa, about 13% live in Asia and the Pacific, and 1% live in the Middle East and North Africa.

Christians make up the majority of the population in 158 countries and territories.

280 million Christians live as a minority.

About half of all Christians worldwide are Catholic, while more than a third are Protestant (37%).

Orthodox communions comprise 12% of the world’s Christians. 

Other Christian groups make up the remainder.

By 2050, the Christian population is expected to exceed 3 billion. 

Pew Research Center.svg

According to a 2012 Pew Research Center survey, Christianity will remain the world’s largest religion in 2050, if current trends continue.

Christians are the one of the most persecuted religious groups in the world, especially in the Middle East, North Africa, East Asia, and South Asia.

Christianity is an Abrahamic monotheistic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus of Nazareth.

It is the world’s largest religion, with about 2.4 billion followers.

Its adherents, known as Christians, make up a majority of the population in 157 countries and territories, and believe that Jesus is the Christ, whose coming as the Messiah was prophesied in the Hebrew Bible, called the Old Testament in Christianity, and chronicled in the New Testament.

Christianity remains culturally diverse in its Western and Eastern branches, as well as in its doctrines concerning justification and the nature of salvation, ecclesiology, ordination and Christology.

The creeds of various Christian denominations generally hold in common Jesus as the Son of God who ministered, suffered and died on a cross, but rose from the dead for the salvation of mankind, referred to as the Gospel, meaning the “good news“.

Describing Jesus’ life and teachings are the four canonical gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, with the Old Testament as the Gospel‘s respected background.

Jesus sits atop a mount, preaching to a crowd
Above: Jesus’ Sermon on the Mount, by Carl Bloch (1877)

Christianity began as a Judaic sect in the 1st century in the Roman province of Judea.

Jesus’ apostles and their followers spread around the Levant, Europe, Anatolia, Mesopotamia, Transcaucasia, Egypt and Ethiopia, despite initial persecution.

Above: The eastern Mediterranean region in the time of Paul the Apostle (5 – 64 CE)

It soon attracted Gentile (non-Jewish) God-fearers, which led to a departure from Jewish customs, and, after the Fall of Jerusalem (70 CE), which ended the Temple-based Judaism, Christianity slowly separated from Judaism.

Above: Siege and destruction of Jerusalem, by David Roberts (1850)

Emperor Constantine the Great (272 – 337) decriminalized Christianity in the Roman Empire by the Edict of Milan (313), later convening the Council of Nicaea (325) where early Christianity was consolidated into what would become the state church of the Roman Empire (380).

Head statue
Above: Bust of Constantine, Capitoline Museum, Rome

The early history of Christianity’s united church before major schisms is sometimes referred to as the “Great Church” (though divergent sects existed at the same time, including Gnostics and Jewish Christians).

The Church of the East split after the Council of Ephesus (431) and Oriental Orthodoxy split after the Council of Chalcedon (451) over differences in Christology, while the Eastern Orthodox Church and the Catholic Church separated in the East-West Schism (1054), especially over the authority of the Bishop of Rome. 

Protestantism split in numerous denominations from the Catholic Church in the Reformation era (16th century) over theological and ecclesiological disputes, most predominantly on the issue of justification and the primacy of the Bishop of Rome.

Christianity played a prominent role in the development of Western civilization, particularly in Europe from late antiquity and the Middle Ages.

Following the Age of Discovery (15th – 17th century), Christianity was spread into the Americas, Oceania, sub-Saharan Africa, and the rest of the world via missionary work.

Above: Various depictions of Jesus

The four largest branches of Christianity are the Catholic Church (1.3 billion / 50.1%), Protestantism (920 million / 36.7%), the Eastern Orthodox Church (230 million), and the Oriental Orthodox churches (62 million) (Orthodox churches combined at 11.9%), though thousands of smaller church communities exist despite efforts toward unity (ecumenism).

Despite a decline in adherence in the West, Christianity remains the dominant religion in the region, with about 70% of the population identifying as Christian. 

Christianity is growing in Africa and Asia, the world’s most populous continents.

The Size and Distribution of the World's Christian Population | Pew  Research Center

Protestantism is a form of Christianity that originated with the 16th-century Reformation, a movement against what its followers perceived to be errors in the Catholic Church.

Protestants originating in the Reformation reject the Roman Catholic doctrine of papal supremacy, but disagree among themselves regarding the number of sacraments, the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist, and matters of ecclesiastical polity and apostolic succession.

They emphasize:

  • the priesthood of all believers 
  • justification by faith (sola fide) rather than by good works
  • the teaching that salvation comes by divine grace or “unmerited favour” only, not as something merited (sola gratia)
  • affirm the Bible as being the sole highest authority (sola scriptura / “scripture alone“) or primary authority (prima scriptura / “scripture first“) for Christian doctrine, rather than being on parity with sacred tradition.

The five solae of Lutheran and Reformed Christianity summarize basic theological differences in opposition to the Catholic Church.

Protestantism began in Germany in 1517, when Martin Luther published his Ninety-five Theses as a reaction against abuses in the sale of indulgences by the Catholic Church, which purported to offer the remission of the temporal punishment of sins to their purchasers.

Above: Door displaying the Ninety-five Theses, All Saints’ Church, Wittenberg, Germany

The term, however, derives from the letter of protestation from German Lutheran princes in March 1529 against an edict of the Diet of Speyer condemning the teachings of Martin Luther as heretical.

Lucas Cranach d.Ä. - Martin Luther, 1528 (Veste Coburg).jpg
Above: German reformer Martin Luther (1483 – 1546)

Although there were earlier breaks and attempts to reform the Catholic Church — notably by Peter Waldo, John Wycliffe and Jan Hus — only Luther succeeded in sparking a wider, lasting and modern movement.

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Above: Statue of French reformer Pierre Vaudès (aka Peter Waldo) (1140 – 1205), Worms, Germany

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Above: English reformer John Wycliffe (1328 – 1384)

Stimmer Jan Hus.jpg
Above: Portrait of Jan Hus (aka John Hus) (1372 – 1415)

In the 16th century, Lutheranism spread from Germany into Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Latvia, Estonia and Iceland.

Above: Lutheranism in the world, 2013 – The darker the region, the more Lutherans therein.

Calvinist churches spread in Germany, Hungary, the Netherlands, Scotland, Switzerland and France by Protestant Reformers, such as John Calvin, Huldrych Zwingli and John Knox.

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Above: French reformer Jehan Cauvin (aka John Calvin) (1509 – 1564)

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Above: Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

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Above: Scottish reformer John Knox (1514 – 1572)

The political separation of the Church of England from the Pope under King Henry VIII began Anglicanism, bringing England and Wales into this broad Reformation movement.

Full-length portrait of King Henry VIII
Above: English King Henry VIII (1491 – 1547)

Today, Protestantism constitutes the second-largest form of Christianity (after Catholicism), with a total of 800 million to 1 billion adherents worldwide or about 37% of all Christians. 

Protestants have developed their own culture, with major contributions in education, the humanities and sciences, the political and social order, the economy and the arts and many other fields.

Protestantism is diverse, being more divided theologically and ecclesiastically than the Catholic Church, the Eastern Orthodox Church or Oriental Orthodoxy.

Without structural unity or central human authority, Protestants developed the concept of an invisible church, in contrast to the Catholic, the Eastern Orthodox Church, the Oriental Orthodox Churches, the Assyrian Church of the East and the Ancient Church of the East, which all understand themselves as the one and only original church — the “one true church” — founded by Jesus Christ.

Some denominations do have a worldwide scope and distribution of membership, while others are confined to a single country.

A majority of Protestants are members of a handful of Protestant denominational families: 

  • Adventists
  • Anabaptists
  • Anglicans / Episcopalians 
  • Baptists  
  • Calvinist / Reformed
  • Lutherans
  • Methodists
  • Pentecostals  

Charismatic, Evangelical, Independent and other churches are on the rise and constitute a significant part of Protestantism.

Above: Key figures of the Protestant Reformation: Martin Luther and John Calvin depicted on a church pulpit, Mikolow, Poland. These reformers emphasized preaching and made it a centerpiece of worship.

As regular followers of my blogs know, I have, for quite some time, been writing about my following in the footsteps of Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli.

By “following in the footsteps” I do not refer to following the example of Zwingli’s life as a model for my own.

But rather I mean that I have been tracing on foot the life path of Zwingli by walking from his place of birth in Wildhaus in the Toggenburg region to his final resting place in Kappel am Albis – a five-hour / 19 km walk south of Uetliberg overlooking Zürich.

SACHBUCH: Wandern auf Zwinglis Spuren
Above: Marcel and Yvonne Steiner

Huldrych Zwingli or Ulrich Zwingli (1484 – 1531) was a leader of the Reformation in Switzerland, born during a time of emerging Swiss patriotism and increasing criticism of the Swiss mercenary system.

Above: Birthplace of Huldrych Zwingli, Wildhaus, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

He attended the University of Vienna and the University of Basel, a scholarly center of Renaissance humanism.

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Above: Seal of the University of Vienna (Austria)

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Above: Logo of the University of Basel (Switzerland)

He continued his studies while he served as a pastor in Glarus and later in Einsiedeln, where he was influenced by the writings of Erasmus.

Above: Glarus Cathedral, Glarus, Switzerland

Above: Einsiedeln Abbey, Einsiedeln, Switzerland

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Above: Dutch reformer Desiderius Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466 – 1536)

In 1519, Zwingli became the Leutpriester (people’s priest) of the Grossmünster in Zürich where he began to preach ideas on reform of the Catholic Church.

In his first public controversy in 1522, he attacked the custom of fasting during Lent.

In his publications, he noted corruption in the ecclesiastical hierarchy, promoted clerical marriage, and attacked the use of images in places of worship.

Among his most notable contributions to the Reformation was his expository preaching, starting in 1519, through the Gospel of Matthew, before eventually using biblical exegesis to go through the entire New Testament, a radical departure from the Catholic mass.

In 1525, he introduced a new communion liturgy to replace the Mass.

He also clashed with the Anabaptists, which resulted in their persecution.

Historians have debated whether or not he turned Zürich into a theocracy.

Above: Grossmünster (large cathedral), Zürich, Switzerland

The Reformation spread to other parts of the Swiss Confederation, but several cantons resisted, preferring to remain Catholic.

Zwingli formed an alliance of Reformed cantons which divided the Confederation along religious lines.

In 1529, a war was averted at the last moment between the two sides.

Above: Religious map of Switzerland, 1536

Meanwhile, Zwingli’s ideas came to the attention of Martin Luther and other reformers.

They met at the Marburg Colloquy and agreed on many points of doctrine, but they could not reach an accord on the doctrine of the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist.

Above: Woodcut illustration of the Marburg Colloquy (1 – 4 October 1529)

In 1531, Zwingli’s alliance applied an unsuccessful food blockade on the Catholic cantons.

The cantons responded with an attack at a moment when Zürich was unprepared….

Schlacht bei Kappel.jpg
Above: Battle of Kappel, 11 October 1531

Zwingli wanted to enforce the Reformed sermon in the entire area of the Swiss Confederation.

He tried to break the resistance of central Switzerland by force of arms.

This was his undoing.

The Reformation in Switzerland was unstoppable.

It prevailed in church and state and gave the authorities more power.

But there were also opponents of the Reformation.

Zwingli and his innovations were sharply criticized, but that didn’t detract from its popularity.

The people flocked to the Grossmünster for its services.

Zwingli commented on theological, ecclesiastical and political questions in the pulpit.

He tried to renew the Church from the inside and to abolish the excesses and abuses with the consent of the Bishop and Pope.

His mission was to lead the entire Swiss Confederation to true Christianity.

He could not accept that the five places involved in the pension system continued to withhold the Reformed sermon from the central Swiss.

Above: Switzerland, 1530

The struggle for the right belief, in his opinion, required courageous action.

Zwingli wrote:

I believe that just as the Church came to life through blood, it can also be renewed through blood, not otherwise.”

The open break with the Pope and the Church became evident on 29 January 1523, when the Zürich Council obliged the pastors to preach the “pure gospel” based on Zwingli’s example.

At Easter 1525, the Evangelical Last Supper formulated by Zwingli was celebrated instead of Mass for the first time.

Zürich.jpg
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

There were similar developments in other parts of the Swiss Confederation.

Zwingli was in contact with like-minded people.

Well-known exponents of the Reformation in the Swiss Confederation were:

  • Johannes Dörig (1499 – 1526)
  • Walter Klarer (1500 – 1567)
  • Johannes Hess (1486 – 1537)
  • Valentin Tschudi (1499 – 1555)
  • Fridolin Brunner (1498 – 1570)
  • Sebastian Hofmeister (1494 – 1533)

Above: Swiss reformer Sebastian Hofmeister

  • Berchtold Haller (1492 – 1536)

Above: German reformer Berchtold Haller

  • Niklaus Manuel (1484 – 1530)

Above: Swiss reformer Niklaus Manuel

  • Konrad Pellikan (1478 – 1556)

Above: German reformer Konrad Pellikan

  • Wilhelm Reublin (1484 – 1549)
  • Johannes Oekolampad (1482 – 1531)

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Above: German reformer Johannes Oekolampad

  • Johannes Comander (1484 – 1557)
  • Jakob Salzmann (1484 – 1526)
  • Dr. Joachim von Watt (aka Vadian) (1483 – 1551)

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Above: Swiss reformer Joachim Vadian

The disputes about what it meant to be a good Christian led to internal political tensions in the Swiss Confederation.

The 1524 Diet did not lead to an audible solution in dealing that the true gospel should be preached to all confederates.

The Swiss Confederation was weakened.

Flag of Swiss Confederacy
Above: Flag of the Swiss Confederation

The Pope and the French tried to influence.

Johannes Eck (1486 – 1543), who fought on behalf of the Pope, and Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), took part in the 1526 Baden Disputation.

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Above: German counter-reformer Johannes Eck

Eck needed nine places in the Confederation to ostracize and ban Zwingli as Emperor Charles V (1500 – 1558) had done with Luther in 1521.

Portrait of Emperor Charles V seated on a chair
Above: Holy Roman Emperor Charles V

However, the decision was never implemented.

Tensions continued.

Zwingli thought armed conflicts were possible.

He wanted to prevent the Reformed places from being reintegrated into the Catholic Church by military force.

He consulted with Zürich officers and at the beginning of 1526 he drafted a war plan for the attention of the Zürich authorities.

Above: Zwingli preaching, Grossmünster pulpit, Zürich

In February 1528, Bern officially converted to the Reformation.

Zwingli took note of this pleasure and satisfaction.

Aerial view of the Old City
Above: Bern, Switzerland

On Zwingli’s advice, Zürich concluded so-called “Christian castle rights” with the Reformed cities of Bern, Konstanz, St. Gallen, Biel-Bienne, Mühlhausen, Basel and Schaffhausen.

Rheintorturm, a section of the former city wall of Konstanz at Lake Constance
Above: Konstanz, Germany

A view of St. Gallen
Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

Old Town of Biel
Above: Old town, Biel, Switzerland

Divi-Blasii Church seen from Kornmarkt
Above: Mühlhausen, Germany

View from the Rhine
Above: Basel, Switzerland

Schaffhausen in 2012
Above: Schaffhausen, Switzerland

The cities pledged to help each other should they be attacked because of their beliefs.

As a reaction to this, the Catholic towns of Luzern, Uri, Schwyz, Zug and Unterwalden allied themselves with Ferdinand von Habsburg-Austria (1503 – 1564) in the “Christian Association“.

Clockwise from top: Kapellbrücke, Löwendenkmal, Old town, City walls, Traditional frescoed building
Above: Images of Luzern, Switzerland

Flag of Uri
Above: Flag of the Canton of Uri

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Above: Schwyz, Switzerland

View over Lake Zug with the old town of Zug and the Zytturm
Above: Zug, Switzerland

Flag of Unterwalden
Above: Flag of the Canton of Unterwalden

In the early summer of 1529 the situation came to a head:

Both parties committed attacks, the Unterwaldner in the Bernese Oberland, the Zürichers in St. Gallen, and the Schwyzers by executing Reformed pastor Jakob Kaiser (1485 – 1529).

Jakob Kaiser (reformer)

The Zürich government decided to go to war on 4 June 1529.

On 9 June, 4,000 people in armor and guns were standing in Kappel am Albis on the border with the canton of Zug.

Zwingli and several like-minded pasters were there.

Zwingli wanted to ride of his own accord, but the army commanders would have preferred because of the hospitality against Zwingli that he would have stayed at home.

They appointed another pastor to be the field chaplain.

View from the south of Kappel am Albis
Above: Kappel am Albis, Switzerland

The troops of the Reformed towns numbered 30.000 men, the central Swiss had an army of 9,000 men.

In view of the great overwhelming power, the people of Zürich saw themselves marching into Zug and Luzern without much bloodshed, thus enforcing the free preaching of the Gospel and the prohibition of mercenaries and pensions throughout the entire Confederation.

Coat of arms of Zug
Above: Coat of arms of Zug

Coat of arms of Lucerne
Above: Coat of arms of Luzern

But shortly before the attack, the Glarner Landammann Hans Aebli suddenly wanted to parley.

The central Swiss troops were not yet fully armed and one should refrain from a brotherly fight.

So a break was agreed and the Zürich authorities informed of the Glarus request.

Flag of Kanton Glarus
Above: Flag of Canton Glarus

Zwingli wanted to use the numerical superioriry of the Reformers at all costs.

He wrote from the field to the Zürich Council:

Be steadfast and do not fear war.

We do not thirst for someone’s blood.

We are only concerned with one thing:

That the nerve of the oligarchs’ policy must be cut.

If that does not happen, neither the truth of the Gospel nor the servants of the Gospel safe with us.

We do not contemplate the cruel, but the good and patriotic.

We want to save people who otherwise perish from ignorance.

We thirst for freedom to be preserved.

So do not be afraid of our plans.

Flag of Zürich
Above: Flag of Zürich

As a condition for peace he suggested to the Council:

The Gospel should be able to be preached unhindered throughout the Confederation.

No more pensions should be accepted.

Those who brokered pensions in the five towns were to be punished while the Zürich troops were still in Kappel.

The Zürichers were to receive war compensation.

Schwyz had to make amends for the children of Pastor Kaiser of 1,000 guilders.

Zwingli’s admonitions and warnings to the Zürich authorities were not heard.

Flag of Schwyz
Above: Flag of Canton Schwyz

In the meantime, the central Swiss were ready to fight, but the fighting spirit waned on both sides.

The federal spirit gained the upper hand.

In addition, the men suffered from shortages on both sides.

The central Swiss lacked bread.

The Zürichers lacked milk.

A couple of people from central Switzerland put a bucket of milk on the border.

The people of Zürich got the hint:

They brought the chunks of bread for the soup, which went down in history as “Kappel milk soup“.

But the wait and the negotiations continued.

Above: Kappel Milk Soup

Since the assembly of 14 June in Aarau did not bring an agreement, the negotiations were conducted at Zwingli’s suggestion in front of the assembled troops in the vicinity of Kappel.

Aarau old town
Above: Aarau, Switzerland

The ambassadors of the central Switzerland, Zürich and Zwingli expressed themselves.

Zwingli wrote to the Zürich authorities:

For God’s sake, do something brave!

The formulation of a peace agreement progressed resinously and after more than two weeks of negotiations the First Kappeler Landfrieden was finally proclaimed on 26 June 1529:

The Reformed sermon was allowed everywhere and the central Swiss cancelled with the Habsburgs.

This strengthened the “Christian castle rights” of the Reformers who felt themselves to be victorious.

Zwingli was on the one hand satisfied with the bloodless peace.

On the other hand, he did not trust the central Swiss.

Above: Huldrych Zwingli

The wording of the peace treaty left a lot of room for interpretation, which just two months later led to violent disputes at a parliamentary meeting.

In particular, there was a dispute over the sovereignty over belief in the individual areas.

Both sides demanded that the minority bow to the majority.

So it was allowed in Zürich to stick to the old faith and attend Catholic mass.

In central Switzerland, Reformers were not allowed to hold their own church services in communities that remained mostly Catholic.

There was also a quarrel about war compensation.

Instead of the 80,000 guilders demanded by Zürich and Bern, they awarded only 2,500 guilders from both places, which the central Swiss did not want to pay either.

The mutual trust was gone.

The Reformers were suspicious of the central Swiss, despite the contractual ban they were again in contact with the Habsburgs.

Elvis Presley Suspicious Minds PS.jpg

Zwingli and Zürich feared that Emperor Charles V and the Habsburgers could attack the Reformed areas in the Confederation and Germany with the support of central Switzerland.

Flag of the Habsburg Monarchy
Above: Flag of the Habsburg Monarchy

Zwingli wanted to defend the Reformed areas of the Confederation and tried to forge an alliance with Hesse and other Reformed states in Germany, as well as with Venice and Milan.

His attempts were unsuccessful.

Coat of arms of State of Hessen
Above: Coat of arms of the German state of Hesse

A collage of Venice: at the top left is the Piazza San Marco, followed by a view of the city, then the Grand Canal and interior of La Fenice, as well as the island of San Giorgio Maggiore.
Above: Images of Venice, Italy

Clockwise from top: Porta Nuova, Sforza Castle, La Scala, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milano Centrale railway station, Arch of Peace and Milan Cathedral.
Above: Images of Milan (Milano), Italy (Italia)

At the beginning of 1531, Zürich again asked the central Swiss to allow the Reformer sermon.

They felt their autonomy was threatened and rejected the request.

Zwingli urged the Zürich Council to force the people of central Switzerland to make this concession.

Zürich Switzerland-Münsterbrücke-and-Fraumünster-01.jpg
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

They were not convinced by the food boycott either.

At a meeting on 14 June 1531, the two parties – Zürich and Bern on one side, the five central Swiss towns on the other – sat opposite one another.

No agreement could be reached, negotiations were held on 20 June and 11 July with no results.

Zwingli could not stand the hesitation of the people of Zürich and decided on 26 July to leave the city immediately.

The influential lords of the city did not want to allow that to happen.

They literally begged him to stay.

After a period of reflection, Zwingli withdrew his resignation.

Above: Zürich in the time of Zwingli

Since the negotiations between Zürich, Bern and central Switzerland were still going on, Zwingli arranged to meet the Bern representative before the meeting on 11 August and tried to win them over a war against the five central Swiss towns.

Shortly afterwards, Zwingli wrote in a letter:

I am prepared for more than just one disaster.

He felt himself at a loss.

The retirees don’t want to be punished.”

They had too much popular support.

Instead of going to war, Bern advised in September 1531 to lift the supply block against central Switzerland.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Tagsatzung1531.jpg

Above: The Bern negotiations, 1531

The people of Zürich were informed of the preparations for war by the central Swiss from various quarters, but they remained inactive.

When, on 9 October 1531, a runner from Luzern demanded the delivery of the federal letters, Zürichers did not expect an attack.

Even after the central Swiss had already mobilized their troops, the people of Zürich still did not call their soldiers to arms.

Only when reports came in on 10 October that the central Swiss were at Baar did the Zürich-based vanguard send an advance guard to the border with Zug.

Rathaus-Baar.jpg
Above: City Hall, Baar, Switzerland

The central Swiss invaded and plundered Freiamt.

Above: Coat of arms of Freiamt, Switzerland

The Grand Council of Zürich now sent its main force to support the vanguard.

Instead of the expected 4,000 men, only 1,000 arrived.

Zwingli rode at their head as field preacher together with the captains.

More troops arrived.

Finally on 11 October 1531, 7,000 central Swiss troops faced 3,500 soldiers in Kappel.

The people of Zürich who hurried up in forced marches were exhausted even before the fight.

When the central Swiss attacked at 4 pm, they fled after a brief resistance.

Zwingli fell in the front ranks.

More than 500 people from Zürich died with him in this second battle of Kappel.

The central Swiss had fewer than a 100 deaths to mourn.

Above: The Battle of Kappel, 11 October 1531

Zwingli did not immediately die, as the Menzinger Jahrezeitenbuch reported:

The central Swiss recognized the wounded man and offered him a confessor.

Zwingli refused.

Then a captain killed him with a halberd.

Above: The murder of Zwingli, by Karl Jauslin

The following day, “martial law was held over the dead body of this dishonourable God and the unfaithful, perjured, vow-breaking arch heretics and seducers of the people“.

As a result, Zwingli was “first cut off as a traitor to the entire Confederation by the Luzern executioner and then burned to ashes as an arch heretic“.

As a resulr, Zwingli was “first cut off as a traitor to the entire Confederation by the Luzern executioner and then burned to ashes as an arch heretic“.

Above: Zwingli memorial, Kappel am Albis, Switzerland

Zwingli’s death triggered a fall in friends and followers in Zürich and raised hope among his opponents, but the majority of the population wanted to hold on to the Reformation.

As a result of Zwingli’s interference in urban and federal politics, a clear separation of religions and politics was sought.

Pastors were instructed not to interfere in politics, but to concentrate on the preaching of God’s word and to work for peace and tranquility.

Anyone who did not comply was dismissed by the Zürich Council.

The Council appointed Heinrich Bullinger (1504 – 1575) as the new pastor at the Grossmünster on 9 December 1531.

In doing so, he fulfilled Zwingli’s wish:

He had recommended Bullinger as his successor if he did not return from Kappel.

Heinrich Bullinger.jpg
Above: Heinrich Bullinger

The Second Kappel War was not ended by Zwingli’s death.

More defeats for the people of Zürich and Bern followed on the battlefield.

After the defeat, the forces of Zürich regrouped and attempted to occupy the Zugerberg, and some of them camped on the Gubel hill near Menzingen.

Landschaft Zugerberg Rigi Alpen Zug.jpg
Above: Zug Mountain (Zugerberg)

Menzingen-ZG.jpg
Above: Menzingen today

Following the defeat at Kappel, Bern and other Reformed Cantons marched to rescue Zürich.

Between 15 and 21 October, a large Reformed army marched up the Reuss Valley to outside of Baar.

Kapellbrucke in Lucerne.jpg
Above: Reuss River, Luzern, Switzerland

View of Baar
Above: Baar today

At the same time, the Catholic army was now encamped on the slopes of the Zugerberg.

Zugerberg and the city of Zug
Above: Zugerberg and the city of Zug

The combined Zürich-Bern army attempted to send 5,000 men over Sihlbrugg and Menzingen to encircle the army on the Zugerberg.

Above: Babenwaag bridge in Sihlbrugg

However, the Reformed army marched slowly due to poor discipline and looting.

By the night of 23–24 October, they had only reached Gubel at Menzingen.

Menzingen coat of arms
Above: Coat of arms of Menzingen

That night they were attacked by a small Catholic force from Aegeri and driven off.

Oberaegeri-ZG.jpg
Above: Oberaegeri (formerly Aegeri), Switzerland

About 600 Protestant soldiers died in the attack and the panicked retreat that followed.

This defeat destroyed much of the combined Zürich – Bern army and, faced with increasing desertion, it had to retreat on 3 November back down the Reuss to Bremgarten.

Bremgarten AG Reuss.jpg
Above: Bremgarten, Switzerland

The retreat left much of Lake Zürich (Zürichsee) and Zürich itself unprotected.

Zürich now pushed for a rapid peace settlement.

Karte Zürichsee.png
Above: Map of Lake Zürich

On 20 November 1531, the Second Treaty of Kappel was concluded on the mediation of the federal states that had remained neutral.

It was stipulated that each canton could determine its own denomination.

The Abbey of St. Gallen was taken from Zürich and restored.

Convent of St Gall.jpg
Above: Abbey of St. Gall, St. Gallen, Switzerland

The “Christian castle law” of the Reformed cantons repeatedly led to tensions and disputes.

After a long domination of the Catholic towns, the Reformed towns of Bern and Zürich gained the upper hand in the Swiss Confederation in 1712 in the Second Villmerger War (or Toggenburg War) (12 April – 11 August 1712).

Karte Zweiter Villmergerkrieg 1712.png
Above: (green) Protestant cantons / (yellow) Catholic cantons / (grey) neutral cantons, 1712

Until the French Revolution, there were always new denominational disputes.

The Helvetic Republic, with borders according to the first Helvetic constitution of 12 April 1798
Above: The Helvetic Republic (1798 – 1803)

They also played a role in the Sonderbund War (3 – 29 November 1847), which led to the establishment of the Swiss federal state in 1848.

Sonderbund War Map English.png
Above: Switzerland, 1847

Zürich to Kappel am Albis, Switzerland, Friday 13 March 2018

I am not a religious man, though I do respect the morality and traditions that religion tries to maintain.

I am considered by statistics as a man without religion, though I do consider myself a fairly moral man who was raised in the tenets of Christianity – my foster mother was a non-practising Baptist, my foster father was a non-practising Catholic, my foster sister and her family are fundamentalist Christians – I do not adhere to the notion that there is only one faith to follow to salvation – if there is indeed salvation at all.

My following in the footsteps of Huldrych Zwingli was far less a pilgrimage of faith as it was a pedestrian project of walking a path divided into many stages and accomplished in separate stages when time and money permitted.

I was not searching for God or holy illumination but rather I simply wished to get a sense of a historical period before my own and I felt that there was no better way to get a sense of Zwingli than to march along with his memory.

I have always preferred walking to any other method of transportation as the slowest of journeys generates the deepest experiences.

I have always held that the moment one puts wheels beneath them the journey loses its significance and the destination becomes the primary goal.

I wanted to imagine what the places I saw now appeared back then.

How did it come to this?

What did the people of yesterday think?

How did they feel?

How different were they from us?

How similar to us were they?

Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis. Ein Wander- und  Lesebuch: Amazon.co.uk: Steiner, Marcel, Steiner, Yvonne: 9783858827739:  Books

The Steiner book had led me in eight stages since 11 October 2017 from Wildhaus to Wollishofen in downtown Zürich.

Wildhaus 2009.jpg
Above: Wildhaus

Above: Wollishofen with the Uetliberg in the background

Today would be the final march that would take me from Zürich to Uetliberg, Hotel Uto Kulm, Balderen, Felsenegg, Buchenegg, Näfenhüser, Albispass, the Albis Hochwacht, Schnabellücken and Kappel am Albis.

Above: Limmat River, Zürich

Uetliberg - Wollishofen - Zürichhorn 2012-09-27 16-15-12.JPG
Above: Uetliberg, seen from Lake Zürich

Above: Hotel Uto Kulm, Uetliberg

File:Albis - Balderen 2010-08-17 13-43-40.JPG - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Balderen house

The Felsenegg on the Albisgrat
Above: Felsenegg

In front Restaurant Chusperhüsli (former location; nowadays opposite Restaurant Buchenegg), in the back Restaurant Buchenegg
Above: Restaurant Chusperhüsli, Buchenegg

File:Näfenhäuser 2187.jpg - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Näfenhüser

Albispass, in front Rüschlikon
Above: Rüschlikon and Albispass

Hike Albispasshöhe | PostBus
Above: Albis Hochwacht (lookout)

File:Südliche Schnabellücke 02.JPG - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Schnabellücken

Above: Kappel Monastery, Kappel am Albis

From the Haus zur Sul, at Kirchgasse 22, Zwingli’s official residence from 1522 to 1525, the last three years of his life, I walk from there to the Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Grand Central Station), to catch the Uetliberg train and the official start of this last leg of the Steiner trail.

Haus zur Sul - Open House Zürich
Above: Haus zur Sul, Zürich

Zuerich Hauptbahnhof-2.jpg
Above: Zürich Hauptbahnhof

The Uetliberg railway line (Uetlibergbahn) is a passenger railway line which runs from the central station in Zürich through the city’s western outskirts to the summit of the Uetliberg.

The route serves as line S10 of the Zürich S-Bahn (street railway/trams) with the Zürcher Verkehrsverband (Zürich Transport Commission)’s (ZVV) standards zonal fares applying.

ZVV logo on the door of an SBB CFF FFS RABe 514.

The line was opened in 1875 and electrified in 1923.

Vintage poster – Uetliberg-Bahn, Zürich, Sommer-Fahrplan 1897 – Galerie 1 2  3

In 1990 it was extended to its current terminus at Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Central Station).

Zurich HB - a brief station guide for train travellers
Above: Zürich Hauptbahnhof

Today it is owned by the Sihltal Zürich Uetliberg Bahn, a company that also owns the Sihltal line and operates other transport services.

The line has a maximum gradient of 7.9% and is the steepest standard gauge adhesion railway in Europe.

It carries both leisure and local commuter traffic.

Above: Sihltal Zürich Uetliberg Bahn

The Uetliberg line shares a common terminus with the Sihltal line, utilising a dedicated underground island platform (tracks 21 and 22) at Zürich Hauptbahnhof.

There is no rail connection to the rest of the station, but the platform is served by the same complex of pedestrian subways and subterranean shopping malls that link the station’s other platforms.

From the Hauptbahnhof to Zürich Giesshübel station the two lines share a common twin-track line, initially in tunnel, partly running along and under the Sihl River.

GiesshuebelWiedikonII.jpg
Above: Giesshübel Station

OberhalbSihlbrugg.jpg
Above: Sihl River near Sihlbrugg

The current Selnau station is located in this under-river tunnel section.

Above: Selnau Station

Although the two lines diverge at Giesshübel station, and the depot for Uetliberg trains is located there, Uetliberg line trains do not stop.

Just beyond Giesshübel, the line serves Zürich Binz station.

Bahnhof Zürich Binz 2016-09-30 p3.jpg
Above: Binz Station

The line then commences a long, steep but relatively straight climb through the Zurich suburbs, serving the stations of Zürich Friesenberg, Zürich Schweighof and Zürich Triemli.

VBZ LighTram Nr 79 SZU-Querung Friesenberg.jpg
Above: Friesenberg Station

Zurich Schweighof 2011 305.jpg
Above: Schweighof Station

Zurich Triemli 2011 078.jpg
Above: Triemli Station

This section of line is single track, with a double track section between Binz and Friesenberg.

Triemli station is adjacent to the Triemli Hospital , one of Zürich’s main hospitals, and is the terminus for some trains on the line.

Triemli spital.jpg
Above: Triemli Hospital

The station has two tracks and two platforms.

Beyond Triemli the line enters a more wooded and hilly environment, and executes a broad U-shaped route to the summit of Uetliberg, which is 5.9 km (3.7 mi) from Triemli by rail, but only 1.5 km (0.93 mi) away in a direct line.

Above: Uetliberg, seen from Felsenegg

This section of line serves Uitikon Waldegg and Ringlikon stations, and is single track, with double track sections between Triemli and Uitikon Waldegg, and at Ringlikon.

Uitikon-Waldegg - Bahnhof 620m – Tourenberichte und Fotos [hikr.org]
Above: Waldegg Station

Above: Ringlikon Station

Uetliberg station lies some 650 m (2,130 ft) from, and 56 m (184 ft) below, the summit of the Uetiberg.

The station has two terminal tracks, and a substantial station building, including a restaurant.

Above: Uetliberg Station

A refuge castle existed on the Uetliberg as early as the Bronze Age or an oppidum in Celtic times.

Various archaeological finds such as ramparts and the Prince’s grave mound Sonnenbühl can still be visited today. 

From 1644 it was the location of a high watch.

Zürich - Historische Orte I: dem Grab der Üetliberg-Fürstin einen Besuch  abstatten
Above: Sonnenbühl

The Uetliberg and the nearby Albiskamm were the location of six castles in the Middle Ages, of which only remnants are left today: Uetliburg, Sellenbüren, Frisenberg, Baldern, Schnabelburg and Manegg.

The destruction of the Üetliburg in 1268 on an engraving by David Herrliberger (1714)
Above: Uetliberg Castle

Furnace güpf
Above: Sellenbüren Castle ruins

Above: Old mill, Friesenberg Castle

Location of the castle
Above: Original location of Baldern Castle

Schnabelburg ruins (May 2007)
Above: Schnabelburg Castle ruins

ZÜRICH SCHLOSS MANEGG, AQUATINTA 1850 | Kaufen auf Ricardo
Above: Manegg Castle

Uotelenburg was first mentioned in a document in 1210. 

In 1267 the people of Zürich allegedly destroyed the Uetliburg under Rudolf von Habsburg (1218 – 1291) in the course of the Regensberg feud (1268 – 1269), but this is not considered historically certain. 

Above: Grave slab of Rudolf von Habsburg, Speyer Cathedral, Germany

Twice (perhaps) Zwingli ascended Uetliberg in 1531 en route to battle.

That a man of the church sought bloodshed leaves me disappointed, but lives had already been lost in Zürich in the name of his religious reforms.

Above: Zwingli Monument, Wasserkirche, Zürich

In 1750 the poet Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock (1724 – 1803) climbed the mountain.

He too would cause others to doubt his religious convictions.

Above: Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock

Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock grew up as the eldest of 17 children in a pietistic family. 

His father, Gottlieb Heinrich, the son of a lawyer, was a commissioner and had leased the estate of Friedeburg, so that Friedrich Gottlieb spent his childhood here from 1732 until the lease was given up in 1736. 

Above: Klopstock birthplace, Quedlinburg, Germany

His mother Anna Maria had the Bad Langensalza council chamberlain and merchant Johann Christoph Schmidt (1659 – 1711) as a father.

Above: Anna Maria Klopstock (née Schmidt)

After attending the Quedlinburg grammar school, Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock came to the Fürstenschule in Schulpforte at the age of 15 , where he received a thorough humanistic education. 

Above: Pforta State School (Fürstenschule), Schulpforte, Germany

Above: Klopstock Memorial Stone, Pforta School

Klopstock read the Greek and Latin classics: Homer, Pindar, Virgil and Horace. 

Above: Bust of Homer, Glyptothek, Munich, Germany

Above: Replica of Pindar (522 – 446 BCE), Capitoline Museum, Rome, Italy

Above: Representation of Virgil (70 – 19 BCE), Monnus Mosaic, Trier, Germany

Here he also made his first own poetic attempts and wrote a first plan for the Messiah, a religious epic.

In 1745 he began studying Protestant theology in Jena, where he also wrote the first three chants of the Messiah, which he initially laid out in prose. 

After moving to Leipzig, the work was reworked in hexameters the following year. 

The appearance of the first parts in the articles in Bremen in 1748 caused a sensation and became the model for the Messiad literature of its era. 

In Leipzig, Klopstock also created the first odes. 

Above: Messiah, Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock

After completing his theology studies, he took a private tutor in Langensalza (according to the custom of all theology candidates). 

During the two years of his stay in Bad Langensalza, Klopstock experienced the passionate love for the girl Maria-Sophia Schmidt, the intoxication of hope, the despair of disappointment, and finally the elegy of renunciation. 

Above: Old quarter, Bad Langensalza, Germany

This led to, during these two years, his composing the most beautiful of his earlier odes for the unapproachable lover.

The publication of the odes sparked a storm of enthusiasm among opponents of the “reasonable” poetics of Johann Christoph Gottsched, which had prevailed up until then. 

Above: German writer, “the literary pope“, Johann Christoph Gottsched (1700 – 1776)

It was the hour of birth of pure poetry.

Klopstock (Füßli).jpg
Above: Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock

Contacts were made with Johann Jakob Bodmer (1698 – 1783), who invited Klopstock to Zürich in 1750.

Above: Swiss philologist Johann Jakob Bodmer (1698 – 1783)

Klostock gladly accepted the invitation from Bodmer, the Swiss translator of John Milton’s Paradise Lost, where Klopstock was initially treated with every kindness and respect and rapidly recovered his spirits.

Above: English writer John Milton (1608 – 1674)

Bodmer, however, was disappointed to find in the young poet of the Messiah a man of strong worldly interests, and a coolness sprang up between the two men.

After eight months, Klopstock went at the invitation of King Frederick V of Denmark (1723 – 1766). 

With Friedrich’s support he was able to complete his work. 

This granted him a life pension of 400 (later 800) thalers a year. 

He spent three years of his life in Denmark.

Above: King Frederick V of Denmark and Norway (1723 – 1766)

On 10 June 1754, Klopstock married Margreta (Meta) Moller (1728 – 1758), whom he met in Hamburg in 1751 while traveling to Copenhagen. 

She died of a stillbirth on 28 November 1758. 

For thirty years Klopstock could not forget her and sang about her in his elegies. 

Above: Margareta “Meta” Klopstock (née Moller) (1728 – 1758)

It was not until old age (1791) that he married Johanna Elisabeth Dimpfel von Winthem (1747-1821), a niece of Meta Moller.

Above: Johanna Elisabeth von Winthem

From 1759 to 1762 Klopstock lived in Quedlinburg, Braunschweig and Halberstadt, then travelled to Copenhagen, where he stayed until 1771 and exerted a great influence on the cultural life in Denmark. 

Roofs of Quedlinburg Germany.jpg
Above: Quedlinburg, Germany

Above: Braunschweig, Germany

Above: Halberstadt Cathedral, Halberstadt, Germany

Copenhagen, collage. From above: Christiansborg, Marble Church, Tivoli and Rådhuspladsen
Above: Images of Copenhagen, Denmark

In addition to the Messiah, which finally appeared in full in 1773, he wrote dramas, including Hermanns Schlacht (Herman’s Battle) (1769). 

He then returned to Hamburg. 

Above: St. Michaelis Church, Hamburg, Germany

In 1776, he moved temporarily to Karlsruhe at the invitation of Margrave Karl Friedrich von Baden (1728 – 1811). 

Above: The statue of Karl Friedrich von Baden, Karlsruhe Castle, Karlsruhe, Germany

Above: Karl Friedrich von Baden

After his death on 14 March 1803 at the age of 78, Klopstock was buried on 22 March 1803 with great public sympathy in the church cemetery in Ottensen.

Above: Klopstock Grave, Ottensen, Hamburg, Germany

Above: Klopstock’s grave under the linden tree, Ottensen bei Altona

In Quedlinburg, the Klopstockhaus provides information about the poet. 

Above: Klopstockhaus, Quedlinburg, Germany

Above: Klopstock Memorial, Brühl Park, Quedlinburg, Germany

In 1831, a memorial was inaugurated in the local park in Brühl.

Bruehl
Above: Brühl Park, south of Quedlinburg

As a father of the German nation-state idea, Klopstock was a proponent of the French Revolution, which he described in the 1789 poem Know Yourself as the “noblest deed of the century”. 

Klopstock also called on the Germans for a revolution. 

In 1792, the French National Assembly accepted him as an honorary citizen.

logo

Later, however, he castigated the excesses of the revolution in the 1793 poem The Jacobins.

Here he criticized the Jacobin regime, which had emerged from the French Revolution, as a snake that winds through all of France.

Above: Jacobin hat, Army History Museum, Vienna, Austria

Above: Jacobin Club session, January 1792

Klopstock’s enlightened utopia The German Republic of Scholars (1774) is a concept that installs an educated elite in power for the princely rule, which is regarded as incapable of governing. 

The republic is to be ruled by “aldermen“, “guilds” and “the people“, whereby the former – as the most learned – should have the greatest powers, and guilds and people accordingly less. 

The “rabble”, on the other hand, would only get a “shouter” in the state parliament, because Klopstock did not trust the people to have popular sovereignty. 

Education is the highest good in this republic and qualifies its bearer for higher offices. 

This republic would do extremely well in accordance with the learned approach and would be pacifistic too:

Klopstock estimates sniffing, scornful laughter and frowning as punishments between the scholars. 

This made special demands on the executors:

“Whoever wants to become one of them must have two main characteristics, namely a great skill in being very expressive, and then a very special larval face, whereby the size and shape of the nose come into consideration. 

In addition to this, the scornful laugher must have a very strong and at the same time rough voice. 

It is customary to release Schreyer from being expelled from the country and to raise him to a sneer if his nose has the necessary properties for this task.” 

Klopstocks deutsche Gelehrtenrepublik

Klopstock’s conception of Heaven, shaped by the scientific achievements of NIcolaus Copernicus (1473 – 1543) and Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630), is not that of an ancient sky at rest in itself, whose stars are gods and heroes. 

Its celestial sphere is rather a world harmony, a rhythm and symmetry of the spheres. 

Above: Polish scientist Nikolaus Kopernikus (1473 – 1543)

Above: German mathematician Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630)

So it says in the first song of the Messiah:

In the middle of this gathering of the suns the sky rises,
round, immeasurable, the archetype of the worlds, the abundance of
all visible beauty, which, like fleeting brooks,
pours out, imitating it through the infinite space.
So, under the Eternal, it revolves around itself.


While he is walking,
the spherical harmonies resound from him, on the wings of the wind, to the shores of the suns
high. The songs of the divine harpists
resound with power, as if animating. These agreed tones lead the
immortal hearer past many a high praise song.

Above: Kepler’s Platonic model of the Solar System

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832) will take up this picture again in Faust

The “Prologue in Heaven” begins like this:

The sun resounds in the old fashion
in the fraternal song of contests,
And its prescribed journey
completes it with a thunderous walk
.

Above: German polymath Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Above: Faust in his study, by Georg Friedrich Kersting

Klopstock gave the German language new impulses and can be seen as a trailblazer for the generation that followed him. 

He was the first to use hexameter in German poetry with his Messiah, and his examination of the “German hexameter“, as he called it, led him to his doctrine of the word foot (the smallest rhythmic unit. 

This paved the way for free rhythms such as those used by Goethe and Friedrich Hölderlin (1770 – 1843) for example. 

Above: German poet Friedrich Hölderlin

Klopstock also fought against the strict use of rhyme according to the Martin Opitz (1597 – 1639) school. 

Opitz’s aim was to elevate German poetry on the basis of humanism and ancient forms to an art object of the highest order, and he succeeded in creating a new kind of poetics. 

In his commemorative speech on the 100th anniversary of Opitz’s death in 1739, Johann Christoph Gottsched (1700 – 1766) called him the first who had succeeded in bringing the German language to a level that met all the demands of sophisticated diction and eliminated everyday language, which allowed him to advance of the French. 

With his reflections on language, style and verse art, Opitz gave German poetry a formal basis. In doing so, he drew up various laws that served as guidelines and standards for all German poetry for over a century:

  • He demanded strict observance of the meter, taking into account the natural word accent.
  • He rejected impure rhymes. (Probably rejected dirty limericks, too!)
  • He forbade word abbreviations and contractions.
  • He also excluded foreign words.

Opitz’s aesthetic principles included the Horace (65 – 8 BCE) Principle:

Poetry, while it is pleasurable, must be useful and instructive at the same time.” 

Above: German poet Martin Opitz

Klopstock gave the poet’s profession a new dignity by exemplifying the artistic autonomy of the poet, and thus freed poetry from didactic poems. 

Klopstock is considered to be the founder of experiential poetry and German irrationalism. 

His work extended over large parts of the age of the Enlightenment. 

Unlike most Enlighteners, however, he was not committed to reason, but to sensitivity. 

In 1779 he coined the term inwardness, which he called one of nine elements of poetic representation:

“Inwardness, or highlighting the actual innermost nature of the thing.” 

Furthermore, he is considered an important pioneer for the movement of Sturm und Drang – literally “storm and desire”, though usually translated as “storm and stress“, where individual subjectivity and, in particular, extremes of emotion were given free expression.

Above: Friedrich Schiller’s The Robbers, an example of “Sturm und Drang

In The Sorrows of Young Werther, Klopstock’s effect is felt in the writing of Goethe:

We went to the window, it thundered to the side and the wonderful rain rustled on the land, and the most refreshing fragrance rose to us in the fullness of warm air. 

She stood on her elbow and her eyes penetrated the area, she looked up at the sky and at me, I saw her eyes full of tears, she put her hand on mine and said – “Klopstock!” 

I sank into the stream of sensations which she poured out on me in this loosing. 

I could not stand, leaned on her hand and kissed it with the most delightful tears. 

And looked at her eye again –

Noble! 

You would have seen your admiration in this look, and now I would never hear your name, which has so often been desecrated, mentioned again.

In spite of all this, the young Lessing registers:

Who will not praise a Klopstock?
But will everyone read it? – No!
We want to be less exalted
and read more diligently.”

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, The Sorrows of Young Werther

Above: Goethe’s The Sorrows of Young Werther

Klopstock reminds me of Zwingli.

Both strong men, both well-educated, both advocating radical change.

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In 1812 the Uetliberg watch was erected.

Above: Lookout Tower, Uetliberg

Above: The view from Uetliberg

The Alt Uetliberg is a small farm west below the former Annaburg. 

Mentioned in a document 400 years ago and probably much older, the mountain home is a witness of old farming culture on the Uetliberg. 

In 1984 the canton of Zürich wanted to demolish the building. 

A petition successfully opposed this. 

Today the buildings serve as a scout home. 

Alt Üetliberg: Heimverein Website
Above: Alt Üetliberg

A wooden ski jump was built in 1954 south of the Alt Uetliberg farmhouse . 

A hill record of 41.5 meters was achieved in the 1970s. 

Due to the frequent lack of snow and decreasing public interest, the ski jump was demolished in 1994.

Zürich » Skocznie Narciarskie Archiwum » skisprungschanzen.com
Above: Ski jump, Uetliberg

During the Second World War, the Uetliberg and Waldegg area was fortified with over 100 bunkered shelters as part of the first army position.

Above: Waldegg tank trench

In 1815 an inn opened in the former Hochwacht.

In 1838 Friedlich Bluntschli acquired the summit area from his cousin Gerber Bluntschli

The Zürich architect Johann Caspar Breitinger built the first spa house for Friedlich Bluntschli. 

In 1840 Friedrich Beyel opened the Uetliberg guest house and spa. 

Above: Hotel Uto Kulm, Uetliberg

Friedrich von Dürler was the son of Xaver von Dürler, a businessman from Lucerne, and Barbara Gossweiler from Zurich. 

Above: Friedrich von Dürler (1804 – 1840)

After the early death of his father, he trained as a businessman, but soon gave up the profession to devote himself to archeology and gymnastics. 

He was close friends with Ferdinand Keller, the founder of the Antiquarian Society of Zürich, and as treasurer of the association took part in excavations on the Lindenhof in Zurich and the Uetliberg. 

Above: Swiss archaeologist Ferdinand Keller (1800 – 1881)

Together with the theologian Alexander Schweizer, Dürler was one of the early promoters of gymnastics based on the ideas of the father of German gymnastics Friedrich Ludwig Jahn. 

Above: German educator Friedrich Ludwig Jahn (1778 – 1852)




From 1836 the bachelor served as secretary for the Zurich poor relief. 

In September 1838 Dürler became a member of the Swiss Society for Natural Research.

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On 19 August 1837, he had the chamois hunters and mountain farmers Bernhard and Gabriel Vögeli and Thomas Thut from Linthal take him up to the Glarner Tödi to prove their first ascent of the peak from the north on 11 August 1837.

Dürler is still honored today with a plaque in Linthal.

Tödi, view from the Gemsfairenstock
Above: Tödi Mountain, Canton Glarus, Switzerland

Dürler and friends climbed the Uetliberg, where the first restaurant had just opened. 

On 8 March 1840, this mountaineer, naturalist and Zürich secretary for the poor, Friedrich von Dürler (1804 – 1840) fell to his death after visiting the inn while descending. 

On the basis of a bet, he slipped down a steep gully on his alpine stick, fell over a rock and died. 

The friends erected a memorial stone with a plaque on the ridge east of today’s Uto Staffel Restaurant, the Dürlerstein.

Inscription:

Here
Friedrich von Dürler fell down and died on
March 8th MDCCCXL
Mourning friends
set this stone for him

Above: The Dürler Stone, Uetliberg

In 1873 the hotelier Caspar Fürst bought the mountain inn.

The existing house was enlarged and a hotel was built to the north of it. 

In 1927 the Uetliberg Hotel was taken over by the City of Zürich and the ETH Zürich-Lehrwald (teaching forest) was established. 

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Above: Logo of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology

In 1935 the Niedermann brothers, both major butchers in Zürich, bought the hotel. 

In 1943 it was closed. 

In 1973 the hotel came into the possession of the general contractor Karl Steiner. 

In 1983 the Swiss Bank Corporation bought the Uto Kulm mountain inn.

In 1999 Giusep Fry bought the hotel with a lookout tower. 

He subsequently carried out various modifications that were declared illegal by the Federal Supreme Court.

Federal Court (Switzerland) logo.svg

Tourist development began in the 19th century with the Uetlibergbahn (opened in 1875) and the construction of various hotels and guest houses on the Uetliberg and the Albis chain. 

Today the traditional Hotel Uto Kulm and the Uetliberg observation tower, open to the public all year round, stand on the summit of the Uetliberg.

Above: Hotel Uto Kulm and observation tower, Uetliberg

Car-free Üetliberg is accessed by the S10 line of the Sihital-Zürich-Uetliberg Bahn, which is part of the Zurich S-Bahn network, is Europe’s steepest standard-gauge adhesion railway, running from Zürich Main Station to the Uetliberg station – a ten-minute walk below the summit. 

Above: Uetliberg, by Hans Leu the Elder

From the train station, the Uetliberg – Felsenegg Planet Path leads to Felsenegg, where the Adliswil – Felsenegg aerial cableway leads down to Adliswil.

File:Planetenweg-Uetliberg-Felsenegg-Karte.svg - Wikimedia Commons

Various hiking trails lead from the city of Zurich to the summit in around an hour:

  • The varied Denzlerweg leads from Albisguetli (tram line 13 terminus) in a fairly straight direction to the summit. It is named after a baker Denzler who is said to have brought his rolls to the Hotel on the summit every morning on this route and is said to have made this route about 4,000 times.

Pfannenstiel Wanderblog: Am Uetliberg auf "Indianerpfaden": Denzlerweg und  Linderweg

File:Zh-denzlerweg.jpg - Wikimedia Commons
Above: The Denzler Path

  • Also from Albisgüetli, the Laternenweg leads a little further west onto the ridge. It takes its name from its earlier gas lantern lighting, which has been electrified since 2003.

laternenweg uetliberg . zürich | Please don't use this image… | Flickr
Above: Lantern Path in winter

  • From Triemli (tram line 14 terminus) the Hohensteinweg leads up a mountain shoulder, which is particularly popular as a toboggan run in winter.

Uetliberg • Three trails to the top of this Zurich mountain
Above: The High Stone Path

  • A forest road leads from Uitikon-Waldegg (parking lot) to the summit. This path has the least incline.

Ausflugsziel und Aussichtspunkt Uetliberg - Zürich | CREME GUIDES

The Uetliberg is particularly popular in winter, as its summit is often above the Zürich fog. 

In the past, in such inversion weather conditions, the tram lines that go to the foot of the Uetliberg carried the sign “Uetliberg hell”. 

In winter, some of the hiking trails are used as toboggan runs.

Swisscom operates an important telecommunications system on the Uetliberg (the Uetliberg television tower) for the transmission of radio and television programs.

The Uetliberg offers – especially from the Uetliberg observation tower on the mountain top – a view of the entire city and Lake Zürich. 

When the weather is good, the view extends to the north as far as Hohentwiel, and from east to south to Glarus, Graubünden and the Bernese Alps. 

Other mountain ranges in Germany (the Black Forest / Schwarzwald), France (Vosges) and Austria can also be seen.

Above: Uetliberg

The Felsenegg (810m) is a lookout point on the Albis chain and the mountain station of the Adliswil – Felsenegg aerial cableway southwest of Zürich.

The Albis is one of the most important local recreation and hiking areas in the greater Zürich area. 

Via the Felsenegg, the hiking trail from Uetliberg leads along the Albis ridge in an easterly direction to the Albis Pass, starting with the Uetliberg – Felsenegg Planet Trail. 

The Felsenegg on the Albisgrat
Above: Felsenegg

The Uetliberg – Felsenegg Planet Trail is a hiking trail in the canton of Zürich on the Albis. 

The path leads from the Uetliberg railway station of the Uetlibergbahn to Staffel, Annaburg, above the Fallätsche via Mädikon to the Felsenegg station of the Adliswil – Felsenegg aerial cableway, via Felsenegg to Buchenegg. 

The duration of the hike is around two hours.

The trail was designed by Arnold von Rotz and opened on 26 April 1979. 

The patronage was taken over by the Astronomical Society Urania Zürich.

Above: Urania Observatory, Zürich

The path is laid out on a scale of 1:1 billion and thus offers a clear representation of the sizes and distances in the solar system. 

One meter of the model corresponds to one million kilometers in reality. 

The planetary path includes not only the Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune, planets Mercury, but also the dwarf planets Ceres and Pluto.

File: Solar System Graphics.pdf

Above: Representation of the Solar System – We are the third rock from the Sun.

The planet models are attached to boulders on the Linth or Reuss glacier along the way. 

Above: Reuss glacier boulder with model of Jupiter

The smaller planet models were poured into glass and set into a niche in the boulder, the larger ones attached to the top of the boulder. 

Above: Venus model in a Malmkalk boulder

A board on each planet provides information about its position in the solar system and additional information, such as equatorial diameter, rotational speed, orbital speed, orbit circumference, and the like. 

As a model of the sun, a yellow sphere with a diameter of 1.39 meters was attached to a pole, which can be seen clearly from the first planetary models .

Above: Sun model with two Reuss glacier boulders

Dwarf planet Pluto is represented with three stations because of its strongly elliptical orbit:

Global LORRI mosaic of Pluto in true color.jpg
Above: Pluto

The first position corresponds to the perihelion, while it lies ahead of Neptune. 

Above: Model of Neptune with view of Uetliberg

The second position at Felsenegg corresponds to the mean distance and the third station near Buchenegg corresponds to the aphelion.

The next star, Proxima Centauri, would be around 40,113 kilometers away on the same scale.

Proxima Centauri (image from the Hubble Space Telescope)
Above: Proxima Centauri, as seen from the Hubble Space Telescope

(For comparison: the circumference of the Earth is around 40,030 kilometers).

The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg
Above: Earth

A steep forest path built between 1908 and 1912 leads from Adliswil up to Felsenegg.

Uetliberg Hike • Panorama Planetenweg Trail
Above: Uetliberg

Adliswil is located in the lower Sihl valley between Albis and Zimmerberg on the border with the city of Zürich. 

The forest covers a third of the municipal area, the settlement area and traffic almost half, 20% are still used for agriculture.

The graves from the early Middle Ages, which were found in the Grüt near the border with the city of Zurich, give evidence of settlements. 

The slopes of Zimmerberg and Albis were settled first, as the valley floor along the Sihl was repeatedly endangered by floods.

Adliswil and the Sihl valley
Above: Adliswil and the Sihl Valley

A bridge over the Sihl has been documented since 1475. 

The first mill with a weir (dam) is also mentioned in the 15th century. 

The manorial power lay with the Grossmünster and Frauminister of Zürich, as well as the monasteries of Muri and Rüti, and passed to the city of Zürich in 1406.

Above: Grossmünster, Zürich

Above: Fraumünster, Zürich

Above: Müri Monastery

Above: Rüti Monastery before the fire of 1706

From 1942 to 1945, the second largest internment camp in Switzerland, which was set up as a result of the German occupation of southern France, was located in Adliswil. 

It was housed in the rooms of a disused mechanical silk weaving mill. 

In particular, German Jews who had previously found refuge in southern France tried to escape to Switzerland afterwards. 

The transit camp, which, despite its size, was little known among the population because it was shielded by the military, offered space for around 500 people. 

Internment in Switzerland during World War II
Above: Adliswil Internment Camp buildings

Refugees at the table, camp for internees in Adliswil, 1945 Refugees...  News Photo - Getty Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Camp for internees in Adliswil, women and children in camp on loft,... News  Photo - Getty Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Camp for internees in Adliswil, woman ironing, 1945 News Photo - Getty  Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Places to sleep in camp for internees in Adliswil, 1945 News Photo - Getty  Images
Above: Dorm quarters, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

Camp for internees in Adliswil, boys at board game, 1945 News Photo - Getty  Images
Above: Refugees, Adliswil Internment Camp, 1945

The community experienced a strong growth spurt in the 19th century through industrialization, during which a large spinning company, the Mechanische Seidenweberei Adliswil (MSA), was built. 

Home Page
Above: The Mechanical Silk Manufacturing Company, Adliswil

The village was also home to the chocolate manufacturer Norma, which later became part of the Cima – Norma SA company in Dangio – Torre.

Above: Buildings of Cima-Norma SA, Dangio-Torre, Canton Ticino, Switzerland

Today many of the residents work in Zürich. 

The majority of the resident companies operate in the tertiary sector. 

In particular, insurance companies (Generali, Swiss Reinsurance Company) have located part of their administration in Adliswil. 

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The Liechtenstein tool manufacturer Hilti has its Swiss headquarters in Adliswil. 

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A total of around 5,000 people in all sectors work in Adliswil.

Coat of arms of Adliswil
Above: Coat of arms of Adliswil

Some personalities of Adliswil:

  • Stefan Bachmann is a Swiss-American author of novels and short stories.

Above: Stefan Bachmann

His debut novel The Peculiar was published in 2012.

Bachmann was born in Colorado, but soon moved with his family to Adliswil. 

He was home schooled by his American mother and four siblings through high school. 

Above: Adliswil

He attended the Zürich Conservatory since he was 11, and then the Zürich University of the Arts, where he studied organ and composition. 

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His first novel was published when he was 19 years old. 

He writes his books in English.

Amazon.co.uk: Stefan Bachmann: Books, Biography, Blogs, Audiobooks, Kindle

The Peculiar is about the opening of a portal to the fairy world, as a result of which a multitude of magical creatures come into the human world. 

Since the portal closed, the fairies and elves have been prevented from returning and have to live side by side with the humans. 

Children of a human and a fairy are called “the Peculiar” and are especially outlawed as crossbreeds on both sides.

Bartholomew and his little sister Henrietta “Hettie” Kettle are mixed race whose fairy father has left the family. 

They live with their mother on Krähengasse in Bath and are almost never allowed to leave the house, as very few people shy away from killing “mixed race children”. 

One day Bartholomew observes a lady in a plum-colored dress from the window of a secret attic room who is picking up another mongrel boy from the neighbors. 

When Bartholomew follows her, he is magically wrapped in feathers and taken into a distant, noble room, which he leaves shortly afterwards in the same way.

Arthur Jelliby is a parliamentarian and member of the Council of State in London, which also includes a fairy elite. 

For some time now, mongrels have been mysteriously disappearing and then found dead, which most of the Members of Parliament don’t care much. 

When Jelliby is invited to the fairy attorney general Lickerish, he gets lost in his house in a corridor and is tracked down by Lickerish’s fairy butler, who suspects him to have spied. 

By chance, Jelliby overhears Lickerish in an office and comes across a diabolical plan to open the portal to the fairy world in order to deliver England to the fairies. 

To do this, Lickerish needs a certain mixed-race child that the lady in the plum-colored dress named Melusine is supposed to get for him. 

In the meantime, Bartholomew has tried to conjure up a house ghost and instead leads Lickerish’s henchmen to him, who kidnap Hettie. 

At the same time, Jelliby arrives in Crow Alley and comes across Bartholomew, who is desperately looking for his sister. 

Together they make their way to the fairy market to get weapons for defense, and then to a lonely place in the forest where an old fairy lives in a trailer and tells them about Lickerish’s plans. 

He wants to invade all magical beings from the fairy world to England in order to subdue people and to rule over them.

Bartholomew and Jelliby travel back to London, where they locate an old warehouse with access to an airship over the city. 

That is where Lickerish is holding Hettie. 

He is responsible for the disappearance and death of the other mixed race children because he was looking for the right one. 

Hettie is the portal to the fairy world and is supposed to open it that night. 

When it happens, Bartholomew and Jelliby join them. 

They want to prevent the portal from opening, but fail, and Hettie disappears into the fairy world together with the fairy butler. 

The story ends with Bartholomew’s decision to bring Hettie home at all costs.

The Peculiar : Bachmann, Stefan: Amazon.co.uk: Books

Bachmann wrote The Peculiar in English at the age of 16, inspired by The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia, among others. 

First Single Volume Edition of The Lord of the Rings.gif
Above: J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings

The Chronicles of Narnia box set cover.jpg

According to his own information, he needed six months for the first version with 400 pages, plus another six months for the revision. 

Stefan Bachmann - The Peculiar | WAMC
Above: Bachmann at the time of the publishing of The Peculiar

An agent sent the manuscript to US publisher Harper Collins, who published it on 18 September 2012. 

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According to some media reports, the novel quickly became a bestseller in the US, which also led to the film industry’s interest in film rights. 

Along with the publication, a book trailer was produced, the musical accompaniment of which was composed by Bachmann himself. 

A reading tour through the USA and a blog tour through Asia followed in 2013 and brought the author an income in the six-figure range. 

The book has been translated into seven languages, including Czech, Polish, and Spanish. 

The German translation was published on 26 February 2014 by the Swiss Diogenes Verlag.

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Both the press, as well as representatives of fantasy literature judged The Peculiar mainly positive. 

The New York Times wrote in September 2012 that The Peculiar was “a story young fantasy buffs are sure to enjoy”.

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The Los Angeles Times wrote “Bachmann’s prose is so elegantly witty.

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Publishers Weekly described the novel as “limitless reading pleasure for readers of all ages.” 

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Christopher Paolini, author of the fantasy series Eragon, praised the book as “swift, strong and entertaining, highly recommanded”.

Above: Christopher Paolini

Percy Jackson author Rick Riordan said:

Stefan Bachmann breathes fresh life into ancient magic.

Above: Rick Riordan

  • Margrit Baur (1937 – 2017) was a Swiss writer and secretary.

She was born and raised in Adliswil.

After teachers’ college, she attended a drama school in Vienna, where she also appeared in small theatres for a few years after completing her training.

Back in Switzerland, she worked in various “bread and butter” jobs in order to be able to devote herself freely to writing.

She brought up this juxtaposition of professional life and “real” life above all in Survival (1981) and Downtime(1983)

Baur lived in Gattikon near Zürich until 2017.

Baur, Margrit: Archiv Margrit Baur
Above: Margrit Baur

  • Franz Fassbind (1919 – 2003) was a Swiss writer, playwright and journalist.

Franz Fassbind was the son of photographer and small publisher Bernardin Fassbind (1887 – 1954) and Lina Fassbind-Marty (1884 – 1931) in Unteriberg in the canton of Schwyz. 

Unteriberg – Wikipedia
Above: Unteriberg

He grew up in poor conditions, first in the Engadine, then in Zürich’s industrial district and in Wipkingen. 

Above: The course of the Inn River – Within Swiss territory the Inn (En) River Valley is called the Engadine.

Above: Zürich’s Industrial Quarter

Above: Wipkingen

Later he attended the collegiate school of Einsiedeln Monastery and the Jesuit college in Feldkirch. 

Above: Einsiedeln Monastery

Gatehouse State Conservatory1.JPG
Above: The former Jesuit college, Stella Matutina (today: the Vorarlberg State Conservatory), Feldkirch, Austria

During these years Franz Fassbind wrote his first poems and small compositions. 

After dropping out of high school, he studied music at the Zürich Conservatory from 1936 and German studies at the University of Zürich. 

Above: The Zürich Conservatory (today: Zürich University of the Arts)

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Without ever finishing a degree, he worked as a freelance journalist, writer and composer. 

His first poems were published in 1936, Radio Beromünster broadcast his first radio play at Christmas 1938, and his first novel was published three years later.

Landessender Beromünster - Architekturbibliothek
Above: Landesender Beromünster, home of Radio Beromünster, Gunzwil, Canton Luzern, Switzerland

Franz Fassbind became known primarily for his work for Swiss Radio. 

His radio plays and features had a formative effect on the medium from 1938 to 1974. 

Just as important was the series of programs he initiated, “The International Forum”, in which he allowed well-known scientists to have their say. 

His radio reviews in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung found a wide readership. 

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His journalistic work is also an expression of the spiritual defense movement.

Station logo
Above: Logo for Swiss Radio

(The spiritual defense movement is the cross-party strengthening of values ​​and customs perceived as “Swiss” in order to ward off totalitarian ideologies. 

At first it was directed primarily against National Socialism (Nazism) and Facism, later during the Cold War against Communism. 

Even when intellectual national defense was no longer actively pursued by the authorities, the cultural, anti-totalitarian values ​​remained in effect.

Swiss politicians still use the terms and metaphors of intellectual national defense today.) 

Above: Marble sculpture Readiness for military service, Ramisstrasse, Zürich

In the Dramaturgy of the Radio Play published in 1943 , he also reflected on his radio work theoretically.

In 1956 he turned to the medium of film. 

For The Art of the Etruscans he provided both the script and the music. 

The work earned him the 1st Film Prize of the City of Zürich. 

Filmpreis der Zürcher Kirchen | Filmpreisverleihung am Zurich Film Festival

From 1948 Fassbind’s main poetic work, Die Hohe Messe (The High Mass), was published in demanding terzins – an Italian rhyming scheme wherein each stanza consists of three verses – based on Dante. 

There, as in his novels from the post war period, the focus is on dealing with Catholicism in today’s world.

Above: Dante Alighieri (1265 – 1321)

Fassbind married Gertrud Schmucki in 1941. 

Their only child, a daughter, Ursula was born in 1943. 

The family lived in Adliswil near Zürich, where Franz Fassbind died on 9 July 2003 at the age of 84.

Peter Wild published an edition of his work at Walter Verlag in Olten.

fassbind - zeitloses leben roman - ZVAB
Above: Fassbind’s Zeitloses Leben (Timeless Life)

  • Hannes Gruber (1928 – 2016) was a Swiss painter.

HANNES GRUBER - Hannes Gruber
Above: Hannes Gruber

Hannes Gruber was the second son of Paul and Erna Gruber-Hartmann. 

He spent his youth and school days in Oberrieden on Lake Zürich. 

Above: Oberrieden

In 1943 – 1944 he attended the Zürich School of Applied Arts (1883 – 2007). 

From 1944 to 1948 he did an apprenticeship with Swiss bookseller Orell Füssli in Zürich, at the same time he attended courses in the painting at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

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After moving to Grevasalvas in the Upper Engadine (1948) he worked there as a freelance painter. 

In 1953 his son Stefan (now known as filmmaker Steff Gruber) was born. 

Im Heididorf (Grevasalvas 1941 m) | In diesem idyllischen Be… | Flickr
Above: Grevasalvas, Upper Engadine

After returning to Zürich (1954), Hannes Gruber opened his own graphic studio. 

In 1957 his daughter Ursina was born. 

In 1968 his daughter Sandrina was born. 

Hannes Gruber | Artnet
Above: Hannes Gruber painting

The next year Gruber opened a studio on the Hirzel, a Swiss pass in the foothills of cantons Zürich and Zug, between Wadenswil and Sihlbrugg. 

Hirzel Pass - Hirzel, ZH/ZG
Above: Hirzelpass

In 1972 he moved to the Engadin again, this time to Sils Baselgia. 

Sils Maria (left) and Sils Baselgia (right).
Above: The towns of Sils Maria (left) and Sils Baselgia (right)

He moved into a studio in Bondo. 

in Bondo
Above: Bondo

Gruber made his first painting trip to Northern Italy in 1949. 

Flag of Italy
Above: Flag of Italy

A study trip took him to the Netherlands in 1950 and another painting trip to Denmark in 1952. 

Flag of Netherlands
Above: Flag of the Netherlands

Red with a white cross that extends to the edges of the flag; the vertical part of the cross is shifted to the hoist side
Above: Flag of Denmark

He made further trips to Italy (1958) to Bergamo and Verona, then to Sicily (1966) and Tuscany (1967). 

The skyline of the old fortified Upper City
Above: Bergamo, Italy

A collage of Verona, clockwise from top left to right: View of Piazza Bra from Verona Arena, House of Juliet, Verona Arena, Ponte Pietra at sunset, Statue of Madonna Verona's fountain in Piazza Erbe, view of Piazza Erbe from Lamberti Tower
Above: Images of Verona, Italy

Flag of Sicily
Above: Flag of Sicily

Flag of Tuscany
Above: Flag of Tuscany (Toscana)

A summer stay in Spain (1969) earned him a commission for several wall paintings on a building on Ibiza. 

Map of Ibiza map
Above: Mediterranean Spanish island of Ibiza

He travelled to New York in 1974.

Clockwise, from above: Midtown Manhattan, Times Square, Unisphere in Queens, Brooklyn Bridge, Lower Manhattan with One World Trade Center, Central Park, UN headquarters, Statue of Liberty

Above: Images of New York City

 

Another summer stay in Italy took place in 1977..

Coat of arms of Italy
Above: Emblem of Italy

His first watercolours of landscapes from the area around Oberrieden were created in 1940.

He painted in oil for the first time in 1942.

Above: Oberrieden 

Oberrieden by Hannes Gruber on artnet
Above: Oberrieden, by Hannes Gruber

In 1950 he received an order for large murals for the Olma – the annual agricultural fair in St. Gallen. 

Above: OLMA (Swiss Fair for Agriculture and Food) halls, St. Gallen

In 1966 he illustrated an edition of Tristan by Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955). 

In 1971 he was commissioned with a three-dimensional wall design in the Fuhr schoolhouse in Wädenswil.

Schulhaus Fuhr | Oberstufe Wädenswil
Above: Fuhr Schulhaus, Wadenswil

  • Peter Holenstein (1946 – 2019) was a Swiss journalist and author.

Peter Holenstein
Above: Peter Holenstein

In his journalistic work, for example in the Swiss weekly magazine Weltwoche, Peter Holenstein dealt in particular with topics relating to criminal justice and crime, the perpetrator-victim problem and the causes of violent crimes. 

World Week logo

His book The Incredible: The Murderous Life of Werner Ferrari in 2007 led to a review of the child murder case of Ruth Steinmann at the Baden District Court, which ended in Ferrari’s acquittal. 

Der Unfassbare. Das mörderische Leben des Werner Ferrari.: Holenstein, Peter:  9783035020014: Amazon.com: Books

Werner Ferrari is a Swiss serial killer. 

Werner Ferrari Whois

As a five-time child murderer, he is one of the most famous prison inmates in Switzerland. 

For example, he kidnapped or lured children away from public festivals, abused some of the victims and strangled them.

Ferrari grew up in various children’s and youth homes and was considered an introvert. 

He performed various jobs as an unskilled worker.

In 1971 Ferrari committed his first infanticide:

In Reinach (BL), he murdered 10-year-old Daniel Schwan. 

Above: Daniel Schwan (1961 – 1971)

Ferrari was sentenced to ten years in prison and released early after eight years in prison from the Zürich prison in Regensdorf.

Above: Regensdorf Prison

Between 1980 and 1989, 21 children disappeared in Switzerland, 14 of whom were found abused and murdered. 

Seven children, including Peter Roth (8) from Mogelsberg (SG), Sarah Oberson (5) from Saxon (VS), and Edith Trittenbass (9) from Gass-Wetzikon (TG), are still missing today despite intensive searches. 

The Lost Children of Switzerland - True Crime Diva
Above: Peter Roth

Vermisstenfälle: Entführte Kinder in der Schweiz

Above: Edith Trittenbass

On 30 August 1989, four days after Fabienne Imhof’s murder, Werner Ferrari called the police – and stated that he had nothing to do with her death. 

Vermisstenfälle: Entführte Kinder in der Schweiz
Above: Fabienne Imhof

Shortly afterwards he was arrested in his apartment in Olten, and he made confessions in four cases. 

Old town with wooden bridge
Above: Olten

Ferrari vehemently denied the murder of 12-year-old Ruth Steinmann, who was found on 16 May 1980 in a wooded area near Würenlos (AG).

In 1995 Ferrari was sentenced to life imprisonment by the Baden District Court for fivefold murder, including for the crime committed against Ruth Steinmann. 

Seven years later, research by journalist and book author Peter Holenstein discovered evidence that Ferrari could not be responsible for the murder of Ruth Steinmann. 

Among other things, a DNA analysis initiated by the journalist revealed that a pubic hair that could be secured on Ruth Steinmann’s corpse did not come from Ferrari.

On the basis of Holenstein’s research, the higher court of the canton of Aargau overturned the judgment against Ferrari in the Ruth Steinmann case in 2004 and referred it back to the Baden District Court for reassessment. 

As a result, a suspect on Ruth Steinmann was exhumed in March 1983 in Wolfhalden (AG) who had committed suicide. 

A dental report from the Scientific Service of the Zürich City Police showed that the bite marks on the girl’s body were definitely not from Ferrari, but from the man who died in 1983 and who looked very similar to Ferrari. 

In a national appeal, Werner Ferrari was found innocent on 10 April 2007 by the Baden District Court for the murder of Ruth Steinmann and acquitted of this crime. 

However, he remains detained for the other four cases.

Kriminalfälle - Diese brutalen Bluttaten haben den Aargau erschüttert
Above: Ruth Steinmann (1968 – 1980)

As early as 1979, Holenstein succeeded in resolving a murder case in Italy with his research:

After he was able to convict the right perpetrator and he made a confession, the 46-year-old Swiss Werner Rudolf Meier was declared innocent in Elba Prison after 24 years served and was pardoned by Italy’s President Sandro Pertini. 

Above: Sandro Pertini (1896 – 1990), 7th Italian President (1978 – 1985)

From Dominique Strebel and  Christoph Schilling, Beobachter, 28 December 2006

The fortnightly Swiss magazine Beobachter (The Observer) reveals grievances where state arbitrariness is worst: in educational, reformatory or penal institutions. 

Everywhere where the individual is exposed to state power without protection. 

And this is most glaringly shown in the case of errors of justice, to which the Beobachter repeatedly points out.

Take the case of the Zürich furniture maker Werner Rudolf Meier, who was imprisoned in Italy for 24 years – for a murder that he demonstrably did not commit. 

Only when the journalist Peter Holenstein researched meticulously did the matter move. 

Holenstein convicted the real murderer, who made a full confession. 

A revision procedure failed, because the court declared the confessing perpetrator to be insane. 

Holenstein continued to write about the case until Federal Councilors Willi Ritschard and Pierre Aubert spoke directly to the Italian President Sandro Pertini on behalf of Meier. 

He was finally released in 1979. 

“Without the Beobachter, this would not have been possible,” said Holenstein.

It played a decisive role in putting pressure on us.” 

Meier was not acquitted, but pardoned. 

Therefore, he did not receive any compensation for unlawful detention. 

Even now, the Beobachter does not let Meier fall and “participates in the necessary health, professional and human integration efforts with advice and action”.

observer
Above: Logo of the Beobachter (Observer)

In 2001, Holenstein was awarded the German Regino Prize for the best judicial report of the year for Der Verdacht (The Suspicion), published in the magazine Tages-Anzeiger (Daily Indicator). 

The magazine (Switzerland) Logo.svg
Above: Logo of Das Magazin (formerly Tages-Anzeiger)

Peter Holenstein was a member of the Swiss Working Group for Criminology (SAK) and the Swiss Criminological Society (SKG / SSDP). 

At the age of 72, he died in Zürich in January 2019 as a result of a heart attack.

skg-ssdp – Schweizerische Kriminalistische Gesellschaft

  • Pjotr ​​Kraska, actually Peter Johannes Kraska, also known as Kraska rex (1946 – 2016) was a Swiss action artist, writer, visual artist, critic of the authorities and a Zürich original.

Above: Pjotr Kraska

In the late 60s he appeared, sometimes together with Dieter Meier, in experimental theatre and in avant-garde shows that startled the bourgeoisie at the time. 

Above: Dieter Meier

His book, The Big Throw, reflects on speaking and writing

One poem (1978/79) was partly enthusiastically discussed. 

In 1980 he declared himself “King of Zürich and Bilbao, ruler of the Zen and A-centric empires” and from then on fought a bitter but unsuccessful dispute over free travel on the Zürich public transport network (ZVV).

Above: Kraska’s “Triumphal Arch Card” for the entire transport network in the canton of Zürich

Logo Verkehrsbetriebe Zürich
Above: ZVV logo

Kraska, the son of East Prussian parents, grew up as the third of four children in Oberleimbach (Adliswil). 

Above: Adliswil

After leaving school, he attended the Appenzell-Ausserrhoden (AR) cantonal school in Trogen, but took off before completion, deciding that he was an actor. 

Gsell lithography Altes Konvikt Kantonsschule Trogen.jpg
Above: The Kantonsschule Trogen

He later lived in Zürich’s old town in Niederdorf. 

Above: HIrschenplatz (Deer Square), Niederdorf (Lower Town), Zürich

In 1966, Kraska began writing and performing experimental plays. 

He made his first public appearance on the occasion of the performance of Ladislav Kupkovic’s Písmená by the Zürich Chamber Choir in Fred Barth’s piece Forum Concert . 

Diskant - Ladislav Kupkovič

Above: Slovak musician Ladislav Kupkovic (1936 – 2016)

In 1968 the 22-year-old Kraska founded the Wath-Tholl-Theater, where he performed the Darkroom play the same year:

What can be admired in the non-stop, two and a half hour Darkroom piece is the concentration of the actors, the consistency with which the audience is alluded to that openly expressing incomprehension, and above all the virtuoso leadership of a – if one may say so – musical perceived arc to which the text is subordinated. 

Kraska’s problem is – and in this piece, in this nightmare, in any case in an annoying way, he chokes it out of himself – the lack of relationships, the groping in the pitch dark. 

Must this artistically inadequate examination of what may afflict a sensitive young man today take place in public and on a stage?

Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 16 June 1968

Der König von Zürich tritt ab | Tages-Anzeiger
Above: The King of Zürich’s 1968 passport

In 1969 Kraska took part with the Wath-Tholl-Theater in the avant-garde show Underground Explosions, which was performed in Munich (München), Zürich and Cologne (Köln), among others, together with the rock groups Amon Düül and Guru Guru Groove, the Bavarians Paul and Limpe Fuchs (aka Anima) with experimental primal scream music, as well the Viennese performance artists Valie Export and Peter Weibel. 

Guru Guru Groove Band – The Birth Of Krautrock 1969 (2016, CD) - Discogs

Anima & Limpe Fuchs - complete catalogue

Above: Austrian artist Waltraud Stockinger (née Lehner) (aka Valie Export)

Above: Austrian artist Peter Weibel

The Zürich concept artist Dieter Meier and Munich film activist Karl Heinz organized the shows, which culminated in student revolts, pop revolts and avant-garde culture, which grew into tangible scandal. 

Der Spiegel (The Mirror) devoted a whole page to the occasion after the performance in the Munich Circus Krone (which claims to be the biggest circus in the world) and in the Zürich Volkshaus, led to panic and chaos. 

Above: Circus Krone, Munich, Germany

Above: Zürich Volkshaus

Der Spiegel wrote about Kraska:

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The Wath Tholl theatre of Zürich actor Pjotr ​​Kraska (22):

The group of twelve, aged between 16 and 24, spent the winter at an Andalusian farm honing their style.

The Kraska clan entered the Krone Circus with animal screams, attacked each other in combat ballets and ecstatic Blocksberg hugs. 

Kraska, who uses his pants as a notepad, wants to achieveunity between mind and body”.

When a spectator kissed a Kraska girl, she fell to the ground as if touched by lightning.

Der Spiegel, 21 April 1969

Pjotr Kraska – Der Grosse Wurf (1980, Vinyl) - Discogs
Above: Pjotr Kraska

Even later, Kraska appeared as an action artist. 

For example, in 1982 he invited to a “simple monarchical-clerical celebration” on the Pestalozziwiese in Zürich , where Kristin T. Schnider was supposed to “let go“, as was announced – apparently with little public success:

Above: Swiss educator Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi Monument, Pestalozziwiese (park), Bahnhofstrasse, Zürich

Now Kristin T. Schnider is no longer black-haired and no longer a poet, but rather bald and, as one hears, the first court poet to Kraska’s spiritual monarchy. 

And the actors pull away. 

The honoured audience sinks back into the grass and into boredom.

Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 24 – 25 July 1982

Above: Swiss writer Kristin T. Schnider

From the 1970s, Kraska shifted increasingly to writing and worked as a publicist. 

In 1979 his first book, The Big Throw, was published

A poem was enthusiastically reviewed by some of the critics and reprinted in 2000:

The Big Throw is a ‘narrative‘ (246 pages) about writing, about language itself, which is rare in the linguistic landscape of Switzerland and which has so far hardly been heard of reflexive density, biblical form of language and metalinguistic stubbornness.

Stubbornness repeatedly brought back the litter before it could still hit. 

Sounds fall silent in meaning, profundity evaporates in letters:

In every way language is driven out of language, but hollowness and fullness now fall back all the more into the words.

Here there is no commitment to this or that, here is total commitment to the language. 

There is an intelligent and at the same time eloquent talent at work.”

Neue Zürcher Zeitung, 2 May 1978

Der König von Zürich ist tot | Tages-Anzeiger

Above: Kraska’s Der Grosse Wurf (The Big Throw)

In 1981 the novella Death in Naples was followed in 1982 by the novel The Hand in the Clong, and Buddha smiles forever

Top: Panorama view of Mergellina Port, Mergellina, Chiaia area, over view of Mount Vesuvius, Second left: Piazza del Plebiscito Second right: Toledo metro station Third left: Castel Nuovo, Third right: Museo di Capodimonte, Bottom: View of Royal Palace of Naples
Above: Images of Naples (Napoli), Italy (Italia)

Buddha in Sarnath Museum (Dhammajak Mutra).jpg
Above: Buddha statue, Sarnath Museum, India

Kraska also published several articles in the Neue Zürcher Zeitiung on bullfighting and flamenco. 

Above: Matador and bull, Cancun, Mexico

Above: Flamenco dancers, Cordoba, Spain

He had an ambivalent relationship with the Kunsthaus Zürich. 

Above: Kunsthaus Zürich (Zürich Arthouse)

For the exhibition Dada Global (1994) he was allowed to design a showcase as a “contemporary representative of Dadaism.” 

Vintage poster – Dada Global, Kunsthaus Zürich – Galerie 1 2 3

In 2013 the Kunsthaus acquired two Swiss banknotes painted by Kraska, and the museum library owns a complete collection of Court News

Conversely, the latter refused to include the “royal coat of arms” designed by Peter Fischli in the Fischli / Weiss retrospective, whereupon Kraska burned it in a public staging in front of the Kunsthaus. 

Estate of Peter Fischli David Weiss – Sprüth Magers
Above: Peter Fischli (b. 1952) and David Weiss (1946 – 2012)

Peter Fischli David Weiss - Kunsthaus Zürich – Works – eMuseum Museum für  Gestaltung Zürich Archiv Zürcher Hochschule der Künste ZHdK | David,  Poster, Novelty sign

Most recently, Kraska bequeathed his urn with the ashes to the Kunsthaus – a gift that was not accepted.

Peter Johannes Kraska: Der König von Zürich ist tot - 20 Minuten
Above: Kraska burns the coat of arms, Kunsthaus Zürich

During the Zürich youth riots of 1980, Kraska declared himself “His Majesty King Kraska of Zurich and Bilbao, ruler of the Central and A-Central Empire“. 

From upper left: panoramic, Guggenheim Museum, Azkuna Zentroa, Church of San Antón, Puppy, Arriaga Theatre, Iberdrola Tower, San Mamés Stadium, Uribarri station of Metro Bilbao, fireworks in the Aste Nagusia, fosterito, Miguel de Unamuno Square in the Casco Viejo, La Salve and Bilbao-Abando railway station.
Above: Images of Bilboa, Spain

During this time, he published the Crown’s Official Court News every nine months. 

In this glossy magazine he printed, among other things, excerpts from his numerous disputes in court, wrote instructions for the production of blank stamp cards, glorified the Spanish bullfight and rounded off everything with numerous photographs of himself and his followers. 

In 2015 he laid down the “crown”.

Offizielle Hofnachrichten der Krone by domibodara - issuu

In the 80s and 90s he quarreled with the Zürich transport company (ZVV) and the responsible city councilor, Jürg Kaufmann:

Jürg Kaufmann (ca. 1980), Stadtrat (SP), Zürich
Above: Jürg Kaufmann

The “King” took the right to travel without a ticket and declared himself a “green driver” (“in the service of the environment”) and fought a bitter dispute through all court instances until the Federal Court upheld a sentence of 30 days in prison in 1987.

Above: Federal Courthouse, Lausanne, Switzerland

In another trial, the Zürich District Council sentenced Kraska to three months’ imprisonment for “continued fraudulent activity“.

Above: District Courthouse, Zürich

Kraska unsuccessfully sued the Zürich city councilman Jürg Kaufmann for “insulting”, as he had described him in the magazine Bonus 24 as a “total weirdo”. 

Kraska’s defense attorney was temporarily the politically committed lawyer Barbara Hug, who had also represented the “escape king” Walter Stürm , the “sprayer of Zürich” Harald Naegeli and the alleged terrorist Giorgio Bellini in court. 

Archivperlen - Walter Stürm ist tot - Play SRF
Above: Walter Stürm (1942 – 1999)

Above: Harald Naegeli

Giorgio Bellini (@belgio72) | Twitter
Above: Giorgio Bellini

As the quotations interspersed here show, Kraska’s work was controversial. 

In a résumé, the Tages Anzeiger wrote:

In fact, King Kraska, together with Dieter Meier and other Dadaists, took up what had moved the 1960s: the liberation from authority and bourgeois morals. 

Today, the 67-year-old’s art and subjects are outdated. 

The civil fright has degenerated into a civil servant fright.

Tages-Anzeiger, 26 June 2014

Der König von Zürich ist tot | Tages-Anzeiger
Above: Pjotr Kraska

His work as an artist faded increasingly into the background in the public perception, and from the 1980s his persistent fight for free use of public transport was at the center (“Schwarzfahrer-König“), which occupied all court instances. 

For the Beobachter, Kraska was therefore “a prominent example of the type of the modern resister“. 

In the obituaries published in 2016, Kraska was drawn primarily as a city original.

Above: Pjotr Kraska (right), Cabaret Voltaire, Zürich, 2007

  • Kamil Krejčí is a Czech-Swiss actor, director and author who has lived in Switzerland since 1968.

Kamil Krejci.jpg
Above: Kamil Krejčí

Kamil Krejčí attended the Zürich Acting Academy, where he trained as an actor and director. 

Since 1987 he has been active on the stage and in film. 

After a permanent engagement at the Stadttheater St. Gallen and the Stadt Bühnen Münster, he was a freelance actor and director. 

Above: Stadt Theater, St. Gallen

Above: Theater Münster, Germany

Krejčí worked on many stages in Switzerland and Germany, for example, the B. Fritz Rémond Theater, comedy in the Bayerischer Hof (Bavarian Court), Stadttheater Bern, Luzern and Solothurn. 

Seat of the theater in the society house of the zoo in Frankfurt
Above: The B. Fritz Rémond Theater, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Above: The Bavarian Court, Munich, Germany

Above: Stadt Theater, Bern, Switzerland

Above: Stadt Theater, Bern, Switzerland

Above: Stadt Theater Solothurn, Switzerland

He also played Erwin Imhof in Mannezimmer (Swiss television) in 65 episodes.

ManneZimmer - Die komplette Serie - DVD - online kaufen | Ex Libris

He was the founder of various theater companies, such as BIM Stage, Artsi Fartsi or Take Theater.

Vermietung - Kulturzentrum BiM
Above: Bühne Imst Mitte (BIM)(Stage in the middle), Zürich

Kamil Krejčí was responsible for the text editing of Der kleine Horrorladen (Little Shop of Horrors), as well as the Swiss-German version of the musical Elternabend (Parents’ Night) for the Theater am Hechtplatz or s’Dschungelbuech (The Jungle Book) for the Bernhardtheater. 

Above: Virginia Theater, Broadway, New York City

Above: Theater am Hechtplatz, Zürich

Bernhard-Theater Zürich - Wikipedia
Above: Bernhard Theater, Zürich

The family musicals Der Zauberlehrling (The Sorcerer’s Apprentice), De chli Isbär (The Little Polar Bear), s’Dschungelbuech (The Jungle Book) and D’Schatzinsle (Treasure Island) toured Switzerland for several years. 

Krejci wrote the scripts for The Sorcerer’s Apprentice, The Little Polar Bear and Treasure Island.

For Dschungelbuch he was responsible for the direction and the text version.

Above: First page of Der Zauberling by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

De Chli Isbär: a musical for the entire family - Vivamost!

Kamil Krejčí is the “inventor” of the “Adliswil Christmas Calendar”. 

From 2001 to 2018 he organized and hosted his living Christmas calendar in Adliswil. 

Together with Brigitte Schmidlin and Beat Gärtner (Stadt Theater) he told his own and adapted Christmas stories every day of Advent. 

Krejci now has a “story pool” of more than 200 Christmas fairy tales written in Swiss German.

Above: The Adliswil Christmas Calendar

From 2005 he wrote columns for the Zürcher Tages Anzeiger, then until 2016 in the newspaper “Züri 2”. 

Portal Kirchgemeinde Zürich

In addition, a number of radio plays were created both under his direction and under his pen, for example, various Schreckmümpfeli (horror stories), but also several CDs with Papa Moll stories produced by SRF. 

In many other radio plays he acts as a speaker.

Wenn die Äpfel reif sind» von Kamil Krejci - Schreckmümpfeli - SRF

Above: Papa Moll and son

  • Felix Mettler (1945 – 2019) was a Swiss writer.

Tiermediziner – Schriftsteller – Philosoph | Tüüfner Poscht – die  Dorfzeitung von Teufen
Above: Felix Mettler

Mettler studied veterinary medicine and worked for several years as a senior assistant at the Institute for Veterinary Pathology at the University of Zürich. 

His first work, The Wild Boar, was translated into English and Italian. 

The Wild Boar by Felix Mettler - First Edition - 1992 - from Adventures  Underground (SKU: 111282)

The novel also served as the basis for the film Death of a Boar (2006) with Joachim Król. 

Tod eines Keilers (TV Movie 2006) - IMDb

The 73-metre high transmission tower Felsenegg – Girstel transmission tower of Swisscom is visible from afar and is around 300 metres from the mountain station of the Felseneggbahn cable car. 

The tower was built in 1959 to broadcast radio and television programs in the region. 

With the completion of the directional tower in 1963, radio and television broadcasting began in Switzerland.

logo

 

The Felsenegg station was the most important national technical center for television broadcasting. 

It was the control centre for many private Swiss television stations and allowed national and international distribution.

Above: Felsenegg transmission tower, 1963

 

With the introduction of the REAL system, several transmission systems were distributed to 27 other Swisscom towers. 

As a result, the tower lost its originally outstanding central importance. 

The Felsenegg transmission tower is now integrated in the general network of transmission towers. 

Since fiber optics became popular, conventional broadcasting of radio programs has also declined. 

The tower shone until 10 December 200 as VHF radio from Radio Zürisee before it was switched to the Üetliberg.  

Station logo

In 2020 the Felsenegg Tower was released from the canton’s inventory of historical monuments. 

In 2021 the dilapidated Felsenegg tower will be replaced by a 73-meter high lattice mast tower. 

The old concrete tower is to be dismantled by the end of 2022.

Above: Felsenegg transmission tower seen from Adliswil

Skyguide – the air traffic control company that monitors Swiss airspace and adjacent airspace – has been operating a radio receiving station there since 2005.

logo

The directional beam tower was built by Zürich architect Edwin Schoch. 

It is 51 meters high and was made of reinforced concrete and clad with aluminum. 

This cladding not only has significant technical advantages, but also has a special play of light that adapts the tower’s color to the changing moods of the day and the weather.

By choosing a consistently slim tower shape, it was possible to avoid a forest fall on the narrow ridge of the Felsenegg. 

A triangular floor plan with cut corners makes the tower light and at the same time allows the large antennas mounted on special platforms outside the tower to be placed in the desired main beam directions without difficulty. 

At the top there is a 22-meter high dipole antenna made of steel. 

The tower has 16 floors and one underground floor in which the operating rooms are located. 

The antennas are mounted on the top five platforms and the roof. 

This includes parabolic and directional antennas. 

The maximum radiated power to the Nods Chasseral transmitter 111.3 kilometers away, as the crow flies, is 10 watts.

Zürich - Der Felsenegg-Betonturm kommt erst 2022 weg – trotzdem ziert ein  zweiter die Albis-Silhouette
Above: Felsenegg transmission tower

The Türlersee (Türler Lake) is located in the Säuliamt in the canton of Zürich, on the border of the communities Aeugst and Hausen am Albis at 643 metres above sea level.

Above: Türler Lake

The Türlersee lies for the most part in the municipality of Aeugst. 

The lake is around 1.4 kilometers long and around 500 meters wide. 

On the southeastern bank there is a campsite and the Türlen Lido. 

Tuerlersee.jpg
Above: Türler Lake, Türlen

Türlen is a hamlet that belongs to the municipality of Hausen am Albis and is located on the Türlersee, west of the Albis in the canton of Zürich.

Türlen has a bus stop where regional buses run to and from Wiedikon, Hausen am Albis, Ebertswil and Affoltern am Albis, a restaurant and the outdoor pool on the Türlersee. 

The only campsite on the Türlersee is near Türlen, where on 26 May 2009, 17 caravans burned out due to a gas explosion and fire.

Sixteen people were injured.

In the north the River Reppisch leaves the lake.

Reppisch kurz vor der Einmündung des Dönibachs
Above: Reppisch River at Dönibach

A landslide on the Aeugsterberg changed the landscape at the end of the last ice age around 10,000 years ago. 

The Aeugsterberg, made up of molasse (sedimentary rock), rose like an island out of the ice masses formed by the Reuss and Linth glaciers. 

Above: Molasse rock

After the glacier melted, the pressure on the mountain flank eased, and at the same time the meltwater streams increased the erosion at the foot of the mountain. 

The slope lost its stability and 60 million cubic meters of rock slid into the valley and dammed the Reppisch to the Türlersee. 

Aeugsterberg with Türlersee
Above: Aeugsterberg and Türlersee

First the Türlersee flowed over the Hexengraben (witches’ pit) towards the Reuss, only later over the Reppisch into the Limmat.

Above: The Hexengraben

With a path around the lake and through the surrounding forests, the lake is a popular local recreation area. 

A lido, as well as other beaches and jetties, offers bathing opportunities. 

First and foremost, the landscape at the Türlersee is a diverse nature and landscape protection area with natural banks, species-rich flat and sloping moors and dry meadows. 

The lake is of cantonal importance as a spawning area for common frogs and toads.

Above: Türlersee

Common frog (Rana temporaria), younger female
Above: Common frog

Common toad (Bufo bufo), female
Above: Common toad

In 1786 a coal seam was discovered north of the Aeugsterberg near Gottert, which led to the construction of the Riedhof Mine, in which coal was mined during the periods of 1786–1814, 1917–1921 and 1942–1947.

Sting – We Work The Black Seam (1986, Vinyl) - Discogs

In 1944 the first ordinance for the protection of the Türlersee was issued, which was adjusted due to the steadily increasing influx of visitors in 1998 and 2001 (Protection Ordinance of December 17, 2001). 

For this reason, intensive recreational use is only possible in the demarcated areas:

In the area of ​​the campsite, near the cantonal road at the northern end of the Lake and at the Hexengraben.

Above: Türlersee

 

The Türlersee was frozen over in January 2009 and January 2012, with an accessible layer of ice.

Because of its sheltered location between Albis and Aeugsterberg, the water of the Türlersee is hardly circulated. 

Therefore, the water circulation in winter is supported by a circulation system.

The Türlersee is easy to reach by public transport:

From the city of Zürich, take tram 14 to Triemli and Postbus 235 or take the S5 Zürich S-Bahn to Affoltern am Albis, then Bus 223 via Hausen am Albis to Türlersee. 

logo
Above: Zürich tram symbol

logo

Zurich Transport Association
Above: Logo of the Zürich Transportation Authority

The Türlersee is on the regional cycling route 51 Säuliamt – Schwyz – Zurich – Schwyz. 

There is a legend about the origin of the water:

Where the Türlersee now spreads, there used to be a beautiful farm with fertile fields. 

The owner had an only child, a graceful, dear daughter. 

She caught the eye of the young lord of Schnabel Castle, and he pursued her passionately. 

But the honorable child persistently refused all his promises.

Then the lord of the castle persuaded the father to bring the girl to the Castle at midnight under all sorts of pretenses. 

He opened the gate himself and pulled the reluctant daughter in. 

As he was about to close the gate, she noticed what was being played and uttered a cry of curse on her traitorous father. 

At that moment lightning flashed from the sky and struck her parents’ house. 

She saw how a fiery chasm opened and the neat and once so blessed courtyard with all its fields disappeared into it. 

In the morning, however, there was a lake in its place.

Türlersee4.jpg
Above: Türlersee

The Affoltern district is a district in the southwest of Canton Zürich. 

It lies between the Albis chain and the Reuss with borders in the west and northwest with Canton Aargau, in the south with Canton Zug.

The district is identical to the Knonaueramt region (or Knonauer Amt) and is popularly called Säuliamt . 

The name Zürcher Freiamt , which was also used in earlier centuries, is virtually unknown today.

Affoltern district
Above: Coat of arms of Affoltern

From the beginning of the 15th century until the Reformation, the city of Zürich gradually gained control over the areas between Albis and Reuss. 

Already in 1406 the heirs of John of Hallwyl sold Langnau, Kappel, Rifferswil, Maschwanden, Ottenbach, and portions of today’s Obfeldens to Switzerland’s largest city. 

In the course of the Swiss conquest of Aargau in 1415, Zürich then annexed the Freiamt Affoltern and jurisdiction over Steinhausen, the Maschwanderamt and the Kelleramt. 

During the Old Zürich War (1440 – 1446), the entire region was severely affected by acts of war and was administered by Schwyz, Glarus, Lucerne and Zug between 1443 and 1450. 

Above: Knonau Castle

One of the traditional autonomy rights of the Freiamt was its own jurisdiction. 

The courts handed down from the Habsburg era (1173 – 1415) were Rifferswil, Affoltern am Albis and Berikon. 

Above: Old courthouse, Affoltern am Albis

The Freiamtsgemeinde met in the Mettmenstein church. 

It met for the last time on 26 March 1795, but had to be moved to Rüteli near today’s train station because the church was too small for the large number of visitors. 

Above: Reformed Church, Mettmenstetten

From 1507 to 1512, the Zürich government combined the abovementioned areas to form the Knonau bailiff and standardized the legal system. 

The centralization efforts of the city of Zürich’s guild regime provoked the resistance of the Ämtler population, for example in the Waldmann trade in 1489, in the Wädenswil uprising in 1646 (a tax revolt in Wädenswil and in the Knonaueramt, which Zürich condemned with military actions, executions and heavy fines), in Ämtlerhandel (1794 – 1795), and in the Bock War (1804). 

Wädenswil with Lake Zurich
Above: Wädenswil and the Zürichsee

This last uprising ended the Knonaueramt with the disarmament and military occupation of the villages, imprisonment and fines as well as the execution under martial law of two revolutionaries, Jakob Schneebeli from Affltern am Albis and Heinrich Häberling from Knonau.

Their names (together with those of the also executed Hans Jakob Willi from Horgen and Jakob Kleinert from Schönenberg) are immortalized on a memorial stone at Affoltern train station.

Above: Affoltern Station

Hans Jakob Willi was born in Horgen as the son of the shoemaker Johann Jakob Willi and his wife Anna Maria Leuthold.

After completing his apprenticeship as a shoemaker in his father’s workshop, Willi started working as a mercenary in Spain and France at the age of 15. 

After escaping from British captivity, he returned to Horgen in 1801. 

On 28 March 1803 he married Anna Anton von Horgen.

Horgen - Lake Zurich 2010-06-01 17-34-22.JPG
Above: Horgen

The Mediation Constitution of 1803 shifted the balance of power in favor of the city of Zürich. 

File: Bonaparte - Acte de Médiation, 1803.pdf
Above: The Mediation Constitution

Willi, with his war experience, became the leader of the rebels in the countryside. 

The battles were named Bockenkrieg (Bock War) after the Bocken inn in Arn bei Horgen. 

Landgut Bocken – Wikipedia
Above: Bocken Inn, Arn bei Horgen

Three warships were used to bombard Horgen from Lake Zürich. 

The insurgents won the battle, but Willi had to retire injured. 

The uprising now collapsed very quickly.

After the battle at the Bocken, Hans Jakob Willi stayed in hiding until he was caught in Stäfa after seven days. 

An unconstitutional court martial condemned him despite the intervention of Napoleon Bonaparte. 

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

On 25 April 1804 at 2 p.m. Willi was executed in Zürich along with two co-defendants.

Old town Zurich
Above: Old city, Zürich

We are free Swiss, citizens with equal rights throughout. 

If our government does not want to hear the voice of the people, it is tyrannical.

Hans Jakob Willi

Above: Willi memorial plaque, Horgen

In 1798 the authorities of the Helvetic Republic created the district of Mettmenstetten, which included the core area of ​​the Landvogtei Knonau, as well as Aesch, Birmensdorf, Oberurdorf, Wettswil, Stallikon and Bonstetten. 

Langnau was assigned to the Hirgen district on this occasion. 

Steinhausen came to Canton Zug and Canton Baden, which in turn became part of the new Aaargau in 1803. 

In its current boundaries, the district emerged as the Knonau Oberamt after the end of the Mediation Constitution in 1814. 

The district capital was relocated in 1837 from the former bailiff’s seat of Knonau to the more centrally located Affoltern am Albis. 

This gave the district its current name.

Affoltern am Albis coat of arms
Above: Coat of arms of Affoltern am Albis

After the turmoil and crises of the beginning of the century, a strong industrialization set in around the middle of the 19th century, which also found its expression in transport technology with the opening of the Zürich – Zug railway in 1864. 

The opening of National Highway 4 in 2009 marked another important turning point, as Affoltern am Albis could now be reached from Zürich and Zug in less than 15 minutes. 

In the 1980s a regional protest movement postponed the construction of the motorway for more than twenty years with growth-critical and ecological arguments, but ultimately could not stop the suburbanization of large parts of the district.

In 2012 almost 50,000 people lived in the Affoltern district and there were 16,000 jobs. 

In the last ten years, the district has recorded a population growth of 16.1% (compared to 14%, the cantonal average). 

Above: Affoltern train and bus station

Hausen am Albis is located in the south of the canton of Zürich in the Affoltern district, on the south side of the Albis. 

The community, located in the upper Jonental Valley, consists of the villages of Hausen am Albis and Ebertswil and the hamlets of Türlen, Vollenweid, Tüfenbach, Hinter-, Mittel- and Oberalbis, Husertal, Hirzwangen and Schweikhof. 

The municipality extends from Sihlbrugg to the Türlersee. 

This makes Hausen am Albis the largest municipality in the district with a total of 13.64 km². 

The highest point in the municipality is 916 metres above sea level. 

Bürglen is the lowest point at 532 metres above sea level. 

Hausen am Albis is located between the cities of Zürich and Zug.

Above: Hausen am Albis

Hausen am Albis was first mentioned in a document in 869 as Huson, today’s district of Heisch in 1184 as Heinsche

During this time the lords of Hausen were the Barons of Eschenbach. 

It was they who built the Schnabelburg on the Albis ridge in 1150 and founded the Cistercian Abbey of Kappel in 1185 . 

Kappel Monastery today
Above: Kappel Monastery

The Schnabelburg is the ruin of a hilltop castle on the beak-like elevation north of the Schnabellücke near the village of Hausen am Albis.

In 1185 Walter I, Baron von Eschenbach, named himself after the newly built castle. 

Above: Eschenbach coat of arms

However, it is not known for sure whether it was really the same castle, the ruin of which is known today. 

Archaeological investigations of the castle complex have shown that the castle was probably built in the 13th century, and that it was built very hastily. 

However, no traces have been found in the vicinity of the ruins that are visible today, which would suggest that another castle was built first.

In 1218 the last Duke of the Zähringen family, with whom the castle owners were connected, died, and the economic decline of the family of the Lords of Eschenbach-Schnabelburg began with Berchtold II.

Later the coat of arms (red eagle on gold) in the new town hall of Freiburg

Above: Zähringen coat of arms, New City Hall, Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

In 1270 von Eschenbach became a friend of Rudolf I von Habsburg, the new lord of the castle of Schnabelburg. 

Berchtold II fought with the Habsburg in the decisive battle – one of the largest knight battles in Europe – on the Marchfeld (26 August) against Ottokar von Böhmen in 1278. 

Above: The iron and gold king of Bohemia, Ottokar II Přemysl (1232 – 1278)

Above: Memorial stone of the battle, Dürnkrutfeld, Austria

It can be assumed that the Eschenbach knight fell in the decisive battle near Göllheim in 1298, as he disappeared from documents at that time.

Above: Göllheim, Germany

A son of Berchtold, Walter von Eschenbach, helped murder King Albrecht I of Habsburg in 1308. 

After that, he was given the imperial ban. 

Above: Equestrian seal of Albrecht I (1255 – 1308)

In August 1309, the Habsburgs then besieged and conquered the Schnabelburg in revenge for the regicide. 

According to archaeological findings, the castle was either not destroyed during the siege or was later rebuilt.

In 1955, Hugo Schneider carried out excavation work and conservation measures at the ruins.

Schnabelburg ruins (May 2007)
Above: Ruins of Schnabel Castle

In 1309 Eschenbach rule was ended by the destruction of the Schnabelburg, because Walther von Eschenbach was involved in the murder of King Albrecht. 

Albrecht I was the first legitimate son of the Roman – German King Rudolf I of Habsburg, born in wedlock, from his first marriage to Gertrud Anna von Hohenberg (died 1281). 

His older half-brother Albrecht von Schenkenberg, who received the Grafschaft Löwenstein from his father, was born out of wedlock. 

His motto were “Fugam victoria nescit” (“The victory knows no flight.”) and “Quod optimum idem jucundissimum” (“The best is the most pleasant.”)

From 1273 he officiated as Landgrave in the Landgraviate of Upper Alsace. 

After the 1278 victory in the Battle of Marchfeld over King Ottokar Premysl of Bohemia, he was appointed by his father in May 1281, when he left the conquered Vienna again, as imperial administrator over the imperial fiefs of the Duchy of Austria and the Duchy of Styria. 

The office had been vacant in the turmoil of the Austrian Interregnum since June 1278 because the Wittelsbach Heinrich XIII, had defected from Bavaria to the enemy.

On 17 December 1282, at the Reichstag of Augsburg, he was appointed Duke of Austria and Styria together with his brother Rudolf.

One year later on 1 June 1283 in the Treaty of Rheinfelden, he ruled alone in these rights. 

Above: King Albrecht I sends a messenger to Pope Boniface

Rudolf was to be compensated for this with other territories in southwest Germany, but this did not happen until his death in 1290. 

Albrecht quickly made himself unpopular with his policy of pushing back the natives through his Swabian clientele, especially the Lords of Walsee. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Lords of Walsee

In 1291 – 1292, the Landsberger Bund revolted in Styria, against whom Albrecht was able to quickly assert himself. 

Deutschlandsberg Castle (1681)
Above: Deutschlandsberg Castle (1681), Styria, Austria, from whence the Landsperger Bund (conspiracy of nobles) was derived

In 1295 the Austrian nobility rose up as well. 

In Vienna, too, Ottokar Přemysl remained much more popular for a long time – not least because of economic relations with the Bohemian region. 

After all, Vienna got a new city charter in 1296.

City and state coats of arms
Above: Coat of arms of Vienna (Wien), Austria (Österreich)

Rudolf I tried to make Albrecht co-king during his own lifetime in order to make the royal dignity in the House of Habsburg hereditary. 

Southwest side of the Habsburg
Above: Habsburg Castle, Habsburg, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

However, the Electors, especially the Count Palatine (officials and representatives of the King or Emperor) and the clerical Electors, did not allow this to happen. 

An elector was one of the originally seven, later nine and finally ten highest-ranking princes of the Holy Roman Empire (modern Germany), who had had the sole right to elect the Roman (German) King since the 13th century. 

This royal title was traditionally associated with the right to be crowned Emperor by the Pope.

Above: The Codex Balduineus (1340) contains the first known pictorial representation of the college of electors: Here the electors elect Heinrich of Luxembourg (1278 – 1313) as King. 
The Electors are, recognizable by their coats of arms (from left to right), the Archbishops of Cologne, Mainz and Trier, the Count Palatine of the Rhine, the Duke of Saxony, the Margrave of Brandenburg and the King of Bohemia, who was actually not present when Heinrich was elected.

In 1290 Rudolf wanted to put his son on the throne of Hungary, which after the assassination of Ladislaus IV was regarded as a reverted fiefdom, but his death in 1291 thwarted this plan.

Above: King of Hungary and Croatia Ladislaus IV (1262 – 1290)

As Rudolf’s successor, Adolf von Nassau was elected the new Roman (German) king in 1292. 

Above: King Adolf von Nassau (1250 – 1298)

In the following years Albrecht hardly intervened in imperial politics, as he was bound by revolts by various nobles in his Austrian lands. 

In 1295 he was seriously poisoned, the reason for which remained unclear. 

Maybe the kitchen had processed slightly spoiled food or an assassin had mixed poison in the food. 

In any case, Albrecht collapsed from convulsions. 

His doctors gave him laxatives. 

After the colic, when he got angry, he lost consciousness and, faced with the fear of death, was hung upside down on both legs so that the poison could flow out of his body. 

The patient survived this procedure, but one eye was destroyed.

Above: Statue of Albrecht I, Army History Museum, Vienna, Austria

When Adolf was deposed again in 1298, Albrecht was elected as his successor as King on 23 June 1298. 

In the Knight’s Battle of Göllheim (Battle of the Hasenbühel) on 2 July 1298, Adolf fell while fighting the Habsburgs. 

On 27 July, Albrecht was elected a second time and then crowned King in Aachen on 24 August 1298. 

Above: Modern Aachen, Germany

On his first court day in Nuremberg in the same year he enfeoffed (gave) his sons – Rudolf, Fredrich the Beautiful and Leopold the Glorious – Austria and Styria. 

Above: Stained glass depiction of Rudolf I (1282 – 1307), St. Stephan’s Church, Vienna

Above: Seal of Frederick the Beautiful and his wife Isabella, Duke (#1) and King’s seal of Frederick (#5), Queen’s seal of Isabella (#9). Friedrich is shown enthroned frontally on the king’s seal with a crown and scepter. His feet rest on a lion.

Above: Stained glass depiction of Leopold I (1290 – 1326), Königsfelden Monastery

Through a marriage connection with France, Albrecht I achieved peace with Philip IV the Fair, with whom he had previously been in dispute over the course of the border. 

Above: French King Philippe IV (1268 – 1314)

Albrecht also reached an agreement with Wenceslaus II (Vaclav) of Bohemia in the dispute over rule over Poland:

The Bohemian king added the most important parts of the recently re-established kingdom to a new collapse into his territory, but recognized Albrecht’s suzerainty onwards. 

Above: Wenceslas II (1271 1305) with the Bohemian and Polish crowns, illustration from the Chronicon Aulae Regiae

Opponents of Habsburg power, however, remained the Rhenish Electors, including Pope Boniface VIII.

The papal approbation was only obtained in 1303 in return for far-reaching concessions which severely restricted the King’s power, especially in Italy, and which could have been understood as an oath of subjection towards the papacy. 

However, Albrecht refused the coronation offered by Boniface. 

Above: Pope Boniface VIII (né Benedetto Caetani) (1235 – 1303)

In 1304 Albrecht and his son Rudolf moved together against Wenceslaus II, who, after the death of Andreas III the Venetian, his son Wenceslaus III became the Hungarian king. 

Above: King of Hungary and Croatia Andreas III the Venetian (1265 – 1301)

Above: King of Hungary, Bohemia and Poland Wenceslaus III (1289 – 1306)

Since the Pope would have liked to see another Italian on the Hungarian throne in the form of the Neapolitan Prince Karl Robert, he asked Albrecht for help. 

Albrecht made the strangest demands on Wenceslaus II. 

When this did not fulfill them, the imperial ban was imposed on him. 

Wenceslaus then transferred the Hungarian crown jewels from Ofen to Prague. 

Above: King of Hungary and Croatia Karl I (1288 – 1342)

Above: The Hungarian Crown Jewels

On the following campaign Albrecht and Rudolf Kuttenberg besieged Kutná Hora, the silver mine in Bohemia. 

Their Cuman auxiliaries committed terrible atrocities in the country. 

At the beginning of winter, hunger broke out in their army and they withdrew.

Above: modern Kutná Hora, Czech Republic

A political unification of Central Europe under the leadership of the Habsburgs seemed within reach. 

Albrecht succeeded after the death of the childless King Wenceslaus III on 4 August 1306, who himself became king in Bohemia after the death of his father in 1305, installed his son Rudolf as King of Bohemia. 

But then the Bohemian estates rebelled and decided to depose the king. 

Albrecht quickly forced them to recognize his sovereignty.

However, 1307 brought a serious setback for the Habsburg hegemonic plans. 

After Rudolf’s early death, Heinrich von Carinthia from Meinhardingen became the new King of Bohemia. 

Above: Seal of Heinrich von Carinthia (1265 – 1335)

In connection with a controversial reverted fiefdom in Thuringia and Meißen, Albrecht also lost the Battle of Lucka against the sons of Albrecht the Degenerate from the House of Wettin. 

Above: Coinage of Albrecht the Degenerate (1288–1307), Margrave of Meißen and Landgrave of Thuringia

When King Albrecht invaded with a large army, the Margraves Dietrich IV of Lausitz and Friedrich I of Meißen fought him, at the head of armed citizens and peasants as well as Braunschweig cavalry bands, Albrecht suffered a complete defeat on 31 May 1307.

Above: Friedrich I the Bitten (1257 – 1323) and Dietrich IV (1260 – 1307)

Above: Wettinger Fountain commemorating the Battle, Lucka, Germany

In the dispute over the customs posts of German princes, Albrecht soon cracked down on them until the archbishops and Rudolf, the Count Palatine near the Rhine, surrendered. 

However, Pope Boniface stood in the way of breaking up the Kurkollegium. 

Unrest in Swabia, Baden, Alsace and Switzerland also increased again during this period. 

Peace remained elusive.

Above: The Electors in the royal election in 1308:
From left – Peter von Mainz (1245 – 1320), Balduin von Trier (1285 – 1354) and Rudolf I (1274 – 1319)




Albrecht was murdered in 1308 near Windisch, now in Switzerland, not far from his ancestral castle. 

The murderers were his nephew Johann von Schwaben – who was nicknamed Parricida (relative murderer) because of his deed – Baron Rudolf von Wart (1274 – 1309), Baron Rudolf von Balm, Baron Walter von Eschenbach and Baron Konrad von Tegerfelden. 

Above: Johann Parricuda (1290 – 1313)

Above: Baron Rudolf von Wart’s wife Gertrud von Balm (1286 – 1322) pleads with Albrecht’s daughter Agnes of Hungary (1281 – 1364) for her husband’s life, by August Weckesser

The exact course of the murder is presented differently by the chroniclers. 

Albrecht was probably on the way from Baden to his wife in Rheinfelden. 

In the morning, Duke Johann had claimed his inheritance at Stein Castle – as he had often done before – which led to a scandal. 

Above: Johann Parricida and his accomplices murder Albrecht after crossing the Reuss River.
In the background are the cities of Brugg and Königsfelden as well as Habsburg Castle. 
Coloured pen drawing, The Chronicle of 95 Dominions (1480), City Library, Bern

Baden Stein 9664.jpg
Above: Stein Castle, Aargau Canton, Switzerland

According to the chronicler Matthias von Neuenburg (1295 – 1364) the first sword cut that pierced Albrecht’s neck was received from his nephew Johann, then Rudolf von Wart pierced him with his sword, while Rudolf von Balm split the King’s skull in two. 

Johann was the son of Albrecht’s early deceased brother Rudolf II, who had renounced the regency in Austria in the Treaty of Rheinfelden and had become Duke of Swabia, Alsace and Aargau. 

Above: The murder of Albrecht in Königsfelden, Windisch, Switzerland, 1308

According to Chronicle reports, the failure to pay Johann in compensation was the main motive. 

Depending on the sources, Johann’s blood lust is also given as the motive for murder.

The successor as Duke was Albrecht’s son Friedrich the Fair, but he did not succeed as King. 

The royal dignity went to the House of Luxembourg with Henrich VII (1278 – 1313), where it remained until 1437 – interrupted by the governments of Ludwig of Bavaria (1282 – 1347) and Ruprecht of the Palatinate.

Above: Statue of Heinrich VII, Pisa Cathedral, Pisa, Italy

Above: Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, Frauenkirche, Munich, Germany

Above: Ruprecht (1352 – 1410) with his wife Elisabeth von Hohenzollern-Nürnberg (1358 – 1411) in a miniature copy of a now-lost mural in Heidelberg Castle, Germany

King Albrecht was first buried in the Wettingen monastery (in today’s Switzerland). 

Aerial view of the Wettingen monastery
Above: Wettingen Monastery

In 1309, at the instigation of Henrich VII, his body was transferred to Speyer, where he was buried side by side with his former rival Adolf von Nassau in the Speyer Cathedral.

Speyer - Dom - view of the east facade.jpg
Above: Speyer Cathedral, Speyer, Germany

As a result of Eschenbach’s treachery Hausen am Albis was subordinated to the Hallwylers, who ceded it to the city of Zürich in 1406.

Coat of arms of Hausen am Albis
Above: Coat of arms of Hausen am Albis

It is said that the storyline of The Game of Thrones franchise was inspired by England’s Wars of the Roses, but I submit that the story of Albrecht I and his assassination is also worthy of dramatic accounts.

Main title card for Game of Thrones

Kappel am Albis is first mentioned in 1185 as de Capella.

The settlement was founded in 1185 as a Cistercian monastery which today houses a seminar centre, hotel, cafe and a restaurant.

Das Kloster von Süden gesehen
Above: Kappel am Albis

It was the location of the Wars of Kappel in 1529 and 1531, during the turmoil that accompanied the Reformation of Huldrych Zwingli.

Above: Huldrych Zwingli

A monument to Zwingli is located nearby at the hamlet of Näfenhäuser, marking the spot where he met his fatal end.

Above: Zwingli Monument, Näfenhäuser

In 1185 the Monastery was founded by the Barons of Eschenbach – Scnabelburg and confirmed by the Bishop of Konstanz Hermann II. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

A chapel was available to the first abbot Wilhelm and his monks to build a Cistercian monastery. 

The mother monastery of Kappel was Altenryf (Hauterive) Abbey (Freiburg Canton). 

Hauterive Abbey
Above: Hauterive Abbey, Posieux, Canton Freiburg, Switzerland

Through Pope Innocent III, the monastery received the Privilegium commune Cisterciense and it was placed under the protection of the Papacy in 1211.

Above: Pope Innocent III (né Lotario dei Conti di Segni) (1161 – 1216), San Benedetto Monastery, Subiaco, Italy

Until the end of the 14th century, the Monastery received donations from the founding family and other noble families, especially in the Knouauer Amt, in Zugerland (today’s Aargau), in Luzern Canton, on Lake Zürich (Zürichsee) and in the Zürich Lowlands (Zürich Unterland). 

There were also isolated lands in central Switzerland. 

The Monastery got into financial difficulties through the social development, especially the emerging money economy, the upswing of the cities and through the competition of the mendicant orders. 

In addition, the Monastery came more and more under the influence of secular lords, especially after the assassination of King Albrecht in 1308.

Above: Kappel Monastery

In 1344 the Monastery concluded a permanent alliance with the city of Zug in 1344 and a similar one with Zürich in 1403.

Through these alliances, the Monastery got between the fronts in the Old Zürich War (1440 – 1446) and was plundered by the Confederates in 1443. 

On 15 January 1493, a fire devastated the convent building, which the then Abbot Ulrich had rebuilt. 

Due to his dissolute lifestyle, Abbot Ulrich was forced to resign in 1508.

Cistercian monastery Kappel am Albis

Above: Kappel Monastery

A new spirit arrived under Abbot Ulrich’s successor, Wolfgang Joner. 

In 1523 he summoned Heinrich Bullinger, who was only nineteen, to Kappel, where he taught the monks and young men from the area as a private tutor. 

Through Bullinger, the teachings of the Reformation found their way to Kappel, and so pictures (icons) were removed from the Monastery Church on 9 March 1525. 

Holy Mass was abolished on 4 September of the same year. 

A year later, on 29 March 1526, the monks celebrated the Lord’s Supper for the first time according to the Reformed order and took off their robes. 

Many left the Monastery and turned to a trade or became preachers. 

The convent finally handed the Monastery over to the city of Zürich in 1527. 

Wolfgang Joner, Heinrich Bullinger and four other men stayed in Kappel and continued to run the school as a boarding school for boys. 

The previous monastery church became the parish church of Kappel. 

Above: Statue of Heinrich Bullinger, Grossmünster, Zürich

During the First Kappel War in 1529, Kappel became the scene of the June deployment of the Reformed and Catholic troops, which came to a peaceful end with the legendary Kappel milk soup.

Above: The Milk Soup Stone Memorial, Kappel am Albis

At the end of June 1529, the Zürich troops marched against the central Swiss cantons. 

In this First Kappel War, thanks to the mediation of the neutral towns, a fratricidal war among the Confederates was prevented.

According to the reports, the common footmen of the two armies used the time while the leaders were negotiating to fraternize and put a large saucepan on a fire near Kappel am Albis, exactly on the border between the two cantons. 

The people of Zug are said to have contributed the milk and the people of Zurich the bread for a milk soup, which was then eaten by both armies together.

Today the “Milchsuppenstein” (milk soup stone) is located on a hill southwest of Ebertswil.

The large pot from which everyone ate together was of great symbolic value for the later historiography and identification of Switzerland.

Above: Kappel milk soup

In memory of this event, Kappeler milk soup is still served today when a dispute can be settled through negotiation, for example by Federal Councilor Pascal Couchpin at the conclusion of the St. Gallen cultural property dispute in 2006. 

Above: Pascal Couchepin

It was entirely different on 11 October 1531, when the Zurich reformer Zwingli was killed in the second battle near Kappel.

Zwingli's death at the Battle of Kappel, 11 October 1531(from Spamers  Illustrierte Weltgeschichte, 1894, 5[1], 302, 303) Stock Illustration |  Adobe Stock
Above: The death of Zwingli

Wie «Zwinglis Helm» eine katholische Trophäe wurde - watson
Above: Zwingli’s helmet

After the Reformation, the Monastery remained Zürich’s domain. 

Above: Kappel Monastery, 1741

From 1834 the buildings were used for social purposes, and since 1983 by the Zürcher Landeskirche (Zürich Canton Church) as a seminar hotel and educational center called the House of Silence and Encounter

Since 2008 it has been called Kloster Kappel again. 

The Monastery has been renovated since 2009. 

The Monastery Church shows a glass painting work by the Swiss graphic artist and painter Max Hunziker in the choir .

The Kappel Monastery Association (formerly the Kappelerhof Association) is the owner of the Kappel Monastery domain (real estate, land, forest). 

The 14 association members are the 13 parishes of the Affoltern district and the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zürich. 

The church and rectory belong to the Canton of Zürich.

Kloster Kappel - YouTube
Above: Kappel Monastery

As personalities go, Zwingli is not the sole person to get recognized when one speaks of Kappel am Albis.

Coat of arms of Kappel am Albis
Above: Coat of arms of Kappel am Albis

Josias Simler (1530 – 1576), Swiss Reformed theologian and historian, known among other things for his works on Swiss regional studies and history, was born in Kappel am Albis.

In 1544 Josias Simler went to Zürich to study under his godfather and sponsor Heinrich Bullinger. 

In 1546 he continued his studies in theology, languages ​​and natural sciences in Basel, and from 1547 to 1549 in arithmetic and geometry in Strasbourg. 

He then completed his theology studies in Zürich, worked as a pastor and occasionally as a mathematics teacher for Swiss physician/polymath/encyclopedist Conrad Gessner (1516 – 1565). 

Above: Conrad Gesner

In 1552 he became professor at the Carolinum for instruction in the New Testament in Zürich and in 1560 for theology. 

In that year he temporarily took over the chair of the dismissed Theodor Bibliander (1505 – 1564), who represented the views of Erasmus of Rotterdam and not those of the Reformed Church.

Above: Theodor Bibliander

Above: Desiderius Erasmus (1466 – 1536)

From 1555 he began to re-publish Conrad Gessner’s Bibliotheca universalis

Bibliotheca Universalis by Conrad Gesner | INFO 653 Knowledge Organization
Above: Bibliotheca Universalis

In his work De Alpibus Commentarius (Commentary of the Alps)(1574), the first work that dealt extensively with the Alps, he collected all information about the mountains from the works of various other authors with comments from his own experience. 

In the process, he developed new insights into the nature of avalanches, the difference between firn and ice, the low temperature at high altitudes and the plant endism in the Alps, in this the oldest description of the Alps in Latin.

In his childhood and youth in Kappel am Albis, Simler had the panorama of the Glarus, Uri and Bernese Alps on his doorstep. 

Above: Kappel Monastery and the Alps

Later he was unable to travel because of his gout. 

He had to draw his information from literary sources.

The “Commentary of the Alps” is a first attempt to give an overview of the natural and cultural history of the Alps and their individual mountain ranges. 

It is a collection of experiences from Swiss scientists that they personally gained in the Alps. 

An abundance of quotes from the classical tradition underlines the humanistic orientation of the text.

Above: De Alpibus Commentarius (1574)

Simler also wrote other works on Swiss cultural studies, such as De Republica Helvetiorum (1548) (abstract of the Chronicle by Johannes Stumpf: 1500 – 1578) or Vallesiae Descriptio

Above: Swiss historian Johannes Stumpf

He also advised Ulrich Campell (1510 – 1582) in formulating his Raetiae alpestris descriptio Topographica (Topographical Description of Alpine Raetia) (1573). 

Ulrici Campelli Raetiae Alpestris Topographica Descriptio: Buy Ulrici  Campelli Raetiae Alpestris Topographica Descriptio by Campell Ulrich at Low  Price in India | Flipkart.com

The Simler Snowfield in Antarctica is named in his honour. 

Above: Location of the Simler Snowfield, Antarctica

I tour the Monastery of Kappel am Albis, sit in its cafeteria and dine on soup and salad and cola, and I make notes as I try to assess my feelings at this, the final end of this unreligious pilgrim’s progress.

Kloster Kappel :: EN
Above: Descent into the cloister cafeteria

I have followed the life of one man, from his birthplace to the spot where he fell, and now I feel I must take stock of this man and decide for myself what is my opinion of this man who has garnered so much respect for his role in the Reformation in Switzerland.

Above: Zwingli statue, Zwinglikirche, Berlin, Germany

I cannot claim to be wise in the understanding of Christianity, for it seems to be too often that they who profess to be Christian fail too often to act in a manner which Christ would have.

Above: Crucifixion of Christ, by Diego Velázquez 

In fairness, I suspect that there are Buddhists who do not live in the way Buddha intended or Muslims who do not practice the teachings of Muhammad.

color manuscript illustration of Buddha teaching the Four Noble Truths, Nalanda, Bihar, India
Above: The Buddha teaching the Four Noble Truths, Sanskrit manuscript, Nalanda, Bihar, India

Above: The Kaaba, Mecca, Saudi Arabia – the direction of prayer and destination of pilgrimage for Muslims

Religious affiliation checked on a census poll does not mean religious practice.

If that were so then Trump would not have been the candidate of choice for American evangelical Christians.

Official White House presidential portrait. Head shot of Trump smiling in front of the U.S. flag, wearing a dark blue suit jacket with American flag lapel pin, white shirt, and light blue necktie.
Above: Donald Trump

Trump went to Sunday school and was confirmed in 1959 at the First Presbyterian Church in Jamaica, Queens, New York City.

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In the 1970s, his parents joined the Marble Collegiate Church in Manhattan.

In 2015, the Church stated Trump “is not an active member“.

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Above: Marble Collegiate Church, Manhattan, New York City

In 2019, he appointed his personal pastor, televangelist Paula White, to the White House Office of Public Liaison.

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Above: Paula White

In 2020, he said he identified as a non-denominational Christian.

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Above: The cross symbol of Christianity

On 1 June 2020, federal law enforcement officials used batons, rubber bullets, pepper spray projectiles, stun grenades, and smoke to remove a largely peaceful crowd of protesters from Lafayette Square, outside the White House.

Trump then walked to St. John’s Episcopal Church, where protesters had set a small fire the night before.

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Above: St. John’s Episcopal Church, Washington DC

He posed for photographs holding a Bible upside down, with senior administration officials later joining him in photos.

Above: The “Christian” Donald Trump

Trump said on 3 June that the protesters were cleared because “they tried to burn down the church on 31 May and almost succeeded“, describing the Church as “badly hurt“.

Above: George Floyd protest, Washington DC, 31 May 2020

Religious leaders condemned the treatment of protesters and the photo opportunity itself.

Many retired military leaders and defense officials condemned Trump’s proposal to use the US military against anti-police brutality protesters.

Above: George Floyd protest, Washington DC, 1 June 2020

The chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, General Mark A. Milley, later apologized for accompanying Trump on the walk and thereby “creating the perception of the military involved in domestic politics.”

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Above: The walk from the White House to St. John’s, 1 June 2020 – Milley is in military uniform

As a candidate and as President, Trump frequently made false statements in public speeches and remarks to an extent unprecedented in American politics.

His falsehoods became a distinctive part of his political identity.

Trump’s false and misleading statements were documented by fact checkers, including at the Washington Post, which tallied a total of 30,573 false or misleading statements made by Trump over his four-year term.

Trump’s falsehoods increased in frequency over time, rising from about 6 false or misleading claims per day in his first year as president to 16 per day in his second year to 22 per day in his third year to 39 per day in his final year.

He reached 10,000 false or misleading claims 27 months into his term, 20,000 false or misleading claims 14 months later, and 30,000 false or misleading claims five months later.

Many of Trump’s comments and actions have been considered racist.

He has repeatedly denied this, asserting:

I am the least racist person there is anywhere in the world.

In national polling, about half of respondents say that Trump is racist.

A greater proportion believe that he has emboldened racists.

Several studies and surveys have found that racist attitudes fueled Trump’s political ascent and have been more important than economic factors in determining the allegiance of Trump voters. 

Racist and Islamophobic attitudes are a strong indicator of support for Trump.

Trump’s comment on the 2017 Unite the Right Rally in Charlottesville, Virginia — that there were “very fine people on both sides” — was widely criticized as implying a moral equivalence between the white supremacist demonstrators and the counter-protesters at the rally.

PolitiFact | In Context: Donald Trump's 'very fine people on both sides'  remarks (transcript)
Above: Donald Trump

In a January 2018 Oval Office meeting to discuss immigration legislation, Trump reportedly referred to El Salvador, Haiti, Honduras, and African nations as “shithole countries“.

His remarks were condemned as racist.

Flag of El Salvador
Above: Flag of El Salvador

Flag of Haiti
Above: Flag of Haiti

Flag of Honduras
Above: Flag of Honduras

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Above: Africa (in green)

In July 2019, Trump tweeted that four Democratic congresswomen — all minorities, three of whom are native-born Americans — should “go back” to the countries they “came from“.

He was referring to Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, Ayanna Pressley, Ilhan Omar and Rashida Tlaib.

This group is known collectively as “the Squad“.

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Above: Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez

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Above: Congresswoman Ayanna Pressley

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Above: Congresswoman Ilhan Omar

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Above: Congresswoman Rashida Tlaib

So interesting to see “Progressive” Democrat Congresswomen, who originally came from countries whose governments are a complete and total catastrophe, the worst, most corrupt and inept anywhere in the world (if they even have a functioning government at all), now loudly and viciously telling the people of the United States, the greatest and most powerful nation on Earth, how our government is to be run.

Why don’t they go back and help fix the totally broken and crime infested places from which they came?

Then come back and show us how it is done.

These places need your help badly.

You can’t leave fast enough.

I’m sure that (Speaker of the House) Nancy Pelosi would be very happy to quickly work out free travel arrangements!

Donald J. Trump (@realDonaldTrump on Twitter, 14 July 2019)

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Above: Logo for Twitter

Two days later the House of Representatives voted 240–187, mostly along party lines, to condemn his “racist comments“.

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Above: House of Representatives Speaker Congresswoman Nancy Pelosi

White nationalist publications and social media sites praised his remarks, which continued over the following days.

Trump continued to make similar remarks during his 2020 campaign.

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Trump has a history of insulting and belittling women when speaking to media and on social media.

He made lewd comments, demeaned women’s looks, and called them names like ‘dog‘, ‘crazed‘, ‘crying lowlife‘, ‘face of a pig‘, or ‘horseface‘.

In October 2016, two days before the second presidential debate, a 2005 “hot mike” Access Hollywood recording surfaced in which Trump was heard bragging about kissing and groping women without their consent, saying:

When you’re a star, they let you do it, you can do anything… grab ’em by the pussy.”

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The incident’s widespread media exposure led to Trump’s first public apology during the campaign and caused outrage across the political spectrum.

At least 26 women have publicly accused Trump of sexual misconduct as of September 2020, including his then-wife Ivana.

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Above: Ivana Marie Trump (née Zelníčková)

Jill Harth Speaks Out, Stands by Story of Being Sexually Assaulted by  Donald Trump | WNYC News | WNYC
Above: Jill Harth

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Above: E. Jean Carroll

Summer Zervos defamation lawsuit: Judge allows lawsuit against Trump to  proceed - CNNPolitics
Above: Summer Zervos

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Above: Alva Johnson

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Above: Jessica Leeds

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Above: Kristin Anderson

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Above: Lisa Boyne

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Above: Cathy Heller

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Above: Temple Taggart McDowell

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Above: Amy Dorris

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Above: Karena Virginia

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Above: Mindy McGillivray

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Above: Natasha Stoynoff

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Above: Juliet Huddy

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Above: Ninni Laaksonen

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Above: Cassandra Searles

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Above: Faith Daniels

There were allegations of rape, violence, being kissed and groped without consent, looking under women’s skirts, and walking in on naked women.

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Above: Logo of the Miss Universe beauty pagents

In 2016, he denied all accusations, calling them “false smears” and alleged there was a conspiracy against him.

Amazon.com: All the President's Women: Donald Trump and the Making of a  Predator eBook : Levine, Barry, El-Faizy, Monique: Kindle Store

There is very little that is Christ-like about this so-called “Christian”.

I am in no way suggesting that Zwingli resembled in any way the former US President, save in one respect.

Acting in a very un-Christ-like manner unbecoming to a Christian…..

Certainly Zwingli was an educated man and scholarship is something I deeply respect.

His studies led him to see the need for reform in the Catholic Church and this impulse to improve current systems is a wise and necessary impulse anywhere at all times.

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City –  the largest church in the world and a symbol of the Catholic Church

There is room for improvement in all things, though that being said I do not believe in simply progress for the sake of progress.

Changes should be considered not just for their potential profit but as well soberly assessed as to the cost of their consequences.

And it is here that the Reformation erred.

Certainly the Church was at this time truly a corrupt institution that the faithful found difficult to swear fealty towards.

But in freeing themselves from the rule of Rome they allowed the powerful within their groups to dominate them with the same sort of abuse from which they had fought to free themselves.

Voltaire wrote about Calvin, Luther and Zwingli:

If they condemned celibacy in the priests and opened the gates of the convents, it was only to turn all society into a convent.

Shows and entertainments were expressly forbidden by their religion, and for more than two hundred years there was not a single musical instrument allowed in the city of Geneva.

They condemned auricular confession, but they enjoined a public one.

And in Switzerland, Scotland and Geneva, it was performed the same as penance.

Portrait by Nicolas de Largillière, c. 1724
Above: French writer François-Marie Arouet (aka Voltaire) (1694 – 1778)

The Church dictated when a man should eat and when he should restrain himself from eating.

Ulrich Zwingli was a pastor in Zurich and was dedicated to the Reformation ideology of Martin Luther.

His first rift with the established religious authorities in Switzerland occurred during the Lenten fast of 1522, when he was present during the eating of sausages at the house of Christoph Froschauer, a printer in the city who later published Zwingli’s translation of the Bible.

Above: Christoph Froschauer (1490 – 1564)

Above: The Zwingli Bible

According to William Roscoe Estep, Zwingli already held Reformation-oriented convictions for some time before the incident now known as the Affair of the Sausages.

In March 1522, he was invited to partake in a sausage supper that Froschauer served to his workers – who, Froschauer later claimed, were exhausted from putting out the new edition of The Epistles of St. Paul – and to various dignitaries and priests. 

Leo Jud, Klaus Hottinger and Lorenz Hochrütiner were present at the supper and later gained notoriety for their part in the Swiss Reformation.

Klaus Hottinger (?–1524).jpg
Above: Klaus Hottinger (d. 1524)

The meal involved Swiss Fasnachtskiechli and some slices of sharp smoked hard sausage, which had been stored for more than a year.

Because the eating of meat during Lent was prohibited, the event caused public outcry and led to Froschauer being arrested.

Though he himself did not eat the sausages, Zwingli was quick to defend Froschauer from allegations of heresy.

In a sermon titled Von Erkiesen und Freiheit der Speisen (Regarding the Choice and Freedom of Foods), Zwingli argued that fasting should be entirely voluntary, not mandatory.

According to Michael Reeves, Zwingli was advancing the Reformation position that Lent was subject to individual rule, rather than the discipline which was upheld at the time by the Catholic Church.

The Zürich Sausage Affair was interpreted as a demonstration of Christian liberty and is considered to be of similar importance for Switzerland as Martin Luther’s 95 Theses in Wittenberg for the German Reformation.

Above: Smoked sausages

The Catholic Church historically observes the disciplines of fasting and abstinence at various times each year.

For Catholics, fasting is the reduction of one’s intake of food, while abstinence refers to refraining from something that is good, and not inherently sinful, such as meat.

The Catholic Church teaches that all people are obliged by God to perform some penance for their sins, and that these acts of penance are both personal and corporeal.

Bodily fasting is meaningless unless it is joined with a spiritual avoidance of sin. 

Basil of Caesarea gives the following exhortation regarding fasting:

Let us fast an acceptable and very pleasing fast to the Lord.

True fasting is the estrangement from evil, temperance of tongue, abstinence from anger, separation from desires, slander, falsehood and perjury.

Privation of these is true fasting.

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Above: Basil of Caesarea (330 – 379)

As a man who struggles with self discipline when it comes to his diet I can see a certain wisdom in dietary directives while I simultaneously differ with the notion of someone telling me when and what I should eat.

This Is Why Your Bathroom Scale Sucks! – 20 Fit

The Church demanded that the clergy remain single and celibate, which is not natural for all men despite their religious inclinations.

Certainly women and sex distract a man from his devotion to God, but wasn’t the point of Christ that we live our lives to the fullest if we do no harm to others?

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In the Old Testament it is suggested that God is a jealous god insisting on total allegiance to Him, but I doubt that the intention of allegiance was the total denial of our biological imperatives.

The Ten Commandments (1956) (4K Ultra HD + Blu-ray) - CeDe.ch

Certainly there is a kind of freedom for a man to remove himself from the imperatives of woman.

Certainly sex is often not practiced in the life-affirming and mutually satisfactory and freely consented manner in which I believe it was intended.

The manipulated man (1974 edition) | Open Library

But whether Zwingli was as chaste a man as he should have been and whether he acted responsibly towards women has come into question when his life prior to Zürich is examined.

question mark | 3d human with a red question mark | Damián Navas | Flickr

On the topic of religious imagery I find myself ambivalent.

Images are representations of reality, but they were never meant to replace reality.

Though faith is, to a certain degree, an abandonment of reason to religion, I think the confusion of image with the intended recipient of devotion is a phenomenon too rare to be relatable a worry.

I think an image of the divine makes it easier to believe in the existence of that which is intangible and invisible to the human senses.

Imagery makes the voyeur more easily accept the existence of God whose sole proof of existence is our inability to prove His non-existence.

Imagery makes the unexplainable more palatable and acceptable to the incredulous.

Above: Destruction of icons in Zürich, 1524

As much as I respect the Islamic prohibition of images being made of Muhammad, I sincerely doubt whether viewing Muhammad as a man could ever possibly detract the Islamic faithful from fealty to his teachings.

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Above: Logo of the French satirical weekly Charlie Hebdo – The magazine has been the target of three terrorist attacks: in 2011, 2015, and 2020. All of them were presumed to be in response to a number of cartoons that it published controversially depicting Muhammad. On 7 January 2015, in the second of these attacks, 12 people were killed.

Let me repeat myself:

Murderers and terrorists are not true followers of faith.

A commemorative plaque.
Above: Commemorative plaque, Paris

Someone once said:

Don’t try to be a ‘great’ man.

Just be a man and let history make its own judgments.”

Movie poster for Star Trek: First Contact, showing head shots of Patrick Stewart as Captain Jean-Luc Picard, Brent Spiner as Data, and Alice Krige as the Borg Queen, from bottom to top; the bottom shows an image of the starship Enterprise NCC-1701-E speeding to the background over an army of Borg drones.

Letting our moral leaders be visible human beings, does this diminish the value of what it is they had to teach?

I am uncertain.

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Above: The Vitruvian Man, by Leonardo da Vinci (1490)

Zwingli’s notion of Bible study as opposed to simply a routine of rituals is a practice I approve of.

Our faith should be examined, should be questioned.

If a faith is true it can stand up to examination and questioning.

We are not only impulse and emotion.

We are also capable of reason and rationale.

An infallible and all-powerful God need never fear the legitimate desire for understanding that makes worship more possible.

Where I truly find myself at odds with the man who was Zwingli was in his persecution of those who disagreed with him.

Many in the radical wing of the Reformation became convinced that Zwingli was making too many concessions to the Zürich Council.

They rejected the role of civil government and demanded the immediate establishment of a congregation of the faithful. 

Above: Coat of arms, Zürich City Hall

Konrad Grebel (1498 – 1526), the leader of the radicals and the emerging Anabaptist movement, spoke disparagingly of Zwingli in private.

On 15 August 1524 the Council insisted on the obligation to baptise all newborn infants.

Zwingli secretly conferred with Grebel’s group and late in 1524, the Council called for official discussions.

When talks were broken off, Zwingli published Wer Ursache gebe zu Aufruhr (Whoever Causes Unrest) clarifying the opposing points-of-view.

On 17 January 1525 a public debate was held and the Council decided in favour of Zwingli.

Anyone refusing to have their children baptised was required to leave Zürich.

Above: Commemoration of Konrad Grebel’s home, Zürich

The radicals ignored these measures and on 21 January, they met at the house of the mother of another radical leader, Felix Manz (1498 – 1527).

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Above: Felix Manz

Grebel and a third leader, George Blaurock (1491 – 1529), performed the first recorded Anabaptist adult baptisms.

On 2 February, the Council repeated the requirement on the baptism of all babies and some who failed to comply were arrested and fined, Manz and Blaurock among them.

Zwingli and Jud interviewed them and more debates were held before the Zürich council.

Meanwhile, the new teachings continued to spread to other parts of the Swiss Confederation as well as a number of Swabian towns in southwestern Germany.

On 6 – 8 November, the last debate on the subject of baptism took place in the Grossmünster.

Grebel, Manz, and Blaurock defended their cause before Zwingli, Leo Jud and other reformers.

Above: Swiss reformer Leo Jud (1482 – 1542)

There was no serious exchange of views as each side would not move from their positions and the debates degenerated into an uproar, each side shouting abuse at the other.

The Zürich council decided that no compromise was possible.

On 7 March 1526 it released the notorious mandate that no one shall re-baptise another under the penalty of death.

Although Zwingli, technically, had nothing to do with the mandate, there is no indication that he disapproved.

Felix Manz, who had sworn to leave Zürich and not to baptise any more, had deliberately returned and continued the practice.

After he was arrested and tried, he was executed on 5 January 1527 by being drowned in the Limmat River.

He was the first Anabaptist martyr.

Three more were to follow, after which all others either fled or were expelled from Zürich.

Above: Memorial plate on the river wall opposite 43 Schipfe, Zürich, in remembrance of Manz and other Anabaptists executed in the early 16th century by the Zürich city government

Historians have debated whether or not Zwingli turned Zürich into a theocracy.

Certainly it seems that he did not discourage the tendency.

Above: Zwingli statue, Wasserkirche, Zürich

The problem I have with religion is not with the faith itself but with the so-called practitioners of religion, for they divide the world into Us and Them camps, then turn upon their own to dispute the details of that faith causing further division amongst themselves.

The Reformation spread to other parts of the Swiss Confederation, but several cantons resisted, preferring to remain Catholic.

Zwingli formed an alliance of Reformed cantons which divided the Swiss Confederation along religious lines.

In 1529, a war was averted at the last moment between the two sides.

Above: The Swiss Confederation, 1530

Meanwhile, Zwingli’s ideas came to the attention of Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) and other reformers.

They met at the Marburg Colloquy (1 – 4 October 1529) and agreed on many points of doctrine, but they could not reach an accord on the doctrine of the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist (holy communion wherein wine and bread are symbolically consumed to represent the body and blood of Christ).

Above: Woodcut illustration of the Marburg Colloquy

The leading Protestant reformers of the time attended at the behest of Philip I of Hesse (1504 – 1567).

Philip’s primary motivation for this conference was political.

He wished to unite the Protestant states in political alliance, and to this end, religious harmony was an important consideration.

Philip I felt the need to reconcile the diverging views of Martin Luther and Huldrych Zwingli in order to develop a unified Protestant theology.

If Philip wanted the meeting to be a symbol of Protestant unity he was disappointed.

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Above: Philip I of Hesse

Both Luther and Zwingli fell out over the sacrament of the Eucharist.

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Above: Stained glass illustration of the Eucharist, St. Michael the Archangel Church, Findlay, Ohio

Luther believed that the human body of Christ was ubiquitous (present in all places) and so present in the bread and wine.

This was possible because the attributes of God infused Christ’s human nature.

Luther emphasized the oneness of Christ’s person.

Above: Martin Luther

Zwingli, who emphasized the distinction of the natures, believed that while Christ in his deity was omnipresent, Christ’s human body could only be present in one place, that is, at the right hand of the Father.

Above: Huldrych Zwingli

The executive editor for Christianity Today magazine carefully detailed the two views that would forever divide the Lutheran and Reformed view of the Last Supper:

Luther claimed that the Body of Christ was not eaten in a gross, material way but rather in some mysterious way, which is beyond human understanding.

Yet, Zwingli replied, if the words were taken in their literal sense, the Body had to be eaten in the most grossly material way.

“For this is the meaning they carry:

This bread is that Body of Mine which is given for you.

It was given for us in grossly material form, subject to wounds, blows and death.

As such, therefore, it must be the material of the Last Supper.

Indeed, to press the literal meaning of the text even farther, it follows that Christ would have again to suffer pain, as his Body was broken again — this time by the teeth of communicants.

Even more absurdly, Christ’s Body would have to be swallowed, digested, even eliminated through the bowels!

Such thoughts were repulsive to Zwingli.

They smacked of cannibalism on the one hand and of the pagan mystery religions on the other.

The main issue for Zwingli, however, was not the irrationality or exegetical fallacy of Luther’s views.

It was rather that Luther put “the chief point of salvation in physically eating the body of Christ,” for he connected it with the forgiveness of sins.

The same motive that had moved Zwingli so strongly to oppose images, the invocation of saints, and baptismal regeneration was present also in the struggle over the Supper: the fear of idolatry.

Salvation was by Christ alone, through faith alone, not through faith and bread.

The object of faith was that which is not seen (Hebrews 11:1) and which therefore cannot be eaten except, again, in a nonliteral, figurative sense.

“Credere est edere,” said Zwingli:

“To believe is to eat.”

To eat the Body and to drink the Blood of Christ in the Supper, then, simply meant to have the Body and Blood of Christ present in the mind.

Christianity Today.jpg

Near the end of the Colloquy when it was clear an agreement would not be reached, Philipp asked Luther to draft a list of doctrines all that both sides agreed upon.

The Marburg Articles had 15 points and every person at the Colloquy could agree on the first fourteen. 

The 15th article of the Marburg Articles reads:

Fifteenth, regarding the Last Supper of our dear Lord Jesus Christ, we believe and hold that one should practice the use of both species as Christ Himself did, and that the Sacrament at the Altar is a Sacrament of the true Body and Blood of Jesus Christ and the spiritual enjoyment of this very Body and Blood is proper and necessary for every Christian.

Furthermore, that the practice of the Sacrament is given and ordered by God the Almighty like the Word, so that our weak conscience might be moved to faith through the Holy Spirit.

And although we have not been able to agree at this time, whether the true Body and Blood of Christ are corporally present in the bread and wine of Communion, each party should display towards the other Christian love, as far as each respective conscience allows, and both should persistently ask God the Almighty for guidance so that through His Spirit He might bring us to a proper understanding.

The failure to find agreement resulted in strong emotions on both sides.

Above: Marburg Castle, Marburg, Germany

When the two sides departed, Zwingli cried out in tears:

“There are no people on Earth with whom I would rather be at one than the Lutheran Wittenbergers.”

Because of the differences, Luther initially refused to acknowledge Zwingli and his followers as Christians, though following the Colloquy the two Reformers showed relatively more mutual respect in their writings.

Luther and Zwingli were more concerned with being “right” than being united in a common cause.

Coat of arms of Marburg
Above: Coat of arms of Marburg

In 1531, Zwingli’s alliance applied an unsuccessful food blockade on the Catholic cantons.

Starve or comply.

On 9 October 1531, in a surprise move, the Five States declared war on Zürich.

Zürich’s mobilisation was slow due to internal squabbling.

On 11 October, 3,500 poorly deployed men encountered a Five States force nearly double their size near Kappel.

Many pastors, including Zwingli, were among the soldiers.

The battle lasted less than one hour and Zwingli was among the 500 casualties in the Zürich army.

Zwingli had considered himself first and foremost a soldier of Christ, second a defender of his country, the Swiss Confederation, and third a leader of his city, Zürich, where he had lived for the previous twelve years.

Ironically, he died at the age of 47, not for Christ nor for the Confederation, but for Zürich.

Above: The death of Zwingli, Kappel am Albis, Switzerland, 11 October 1531

In Table Talk, Luther is recorded saying:

They say that Zwingli recently died thus.

If his error had prevailed, we would have perished, and our church with us.

It was a judgment of God.

That was always a proud people.

The others, the Papists, will probably also be dealt with by our Lord God.”

Above: Martin Luther’s grave, Schlosskirche, Wittenberg, Germany

Erasmus (1466 – 1536) wrote:

We are freed from great fear by the death of the two preachers, Zwingli and Oecolampadius, whose fate has wrought an incredible change in the mind of many.

This is the wonderful hand of God on high.

Johannes Oecolampadius (1482 – 1531) had died on 24 November.

Erasmus also wrote:

If Bellona (Roman goddess of war) had favoured them, it would have been all over with us.

Above: Basel Minster, Basel, Switzerland, where Erasmus is buried

Such arrogance!

Such lack of sympathy!

White Exclamation Mark Symbol On Red Circle Caution Icon Isolated On White  Stock Illustration - Download Image Now - iStock

Religious division seems to me as pointless as two bald men fighting over a comb.

Duncan Greive vs Gavin Strawhan – 2 bald men fighting over a comb | The  Daily Blog

If there is indeed a God and each of us has been given an individual mind then I believe that faith must be individual choice.

I believe that religion has its place in teaching us morality and in giving significance through rituals to the various stages of our lives.

It is here where I draw the distinction between individual faith and communal religion.

Above: Praying Hands, by Albrecht Dürer (1508)

I desire in no way, shape or form for anyone to follow my example on faith or lack thereof.

That being said, I equally resist anyone trying to force me to follow the rules of a religion which I myself do not practice.

Simply put, I live and let live.

TheBeatles-LetItBe(2011VinylReissue).png

I presently live in a predominantly Muslim nation.

Reşadiye Camii - Moschee in Eskişehir
Above: Reşadiye Camii (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

I was raised in a predominantly Christian country.

Brownsburg-Chatham » Les croix de chemin au Québec
Above: Église de St-Philippe, Brownsburg-Chatham, Québec, Canada

I would never presume to tell others how to live nor will I willingly submit to others telling me how to live (except where my actions cause harm to others).

John Lennon

In all humility I mourn the loss of anyone past or present, whether I would have agreed with them or not.

Every death diminishes us even if we are unaware of their passing.

I will never celebrate the death of anyone no matter what evils they may have perpetuated, even men as reprehensible as terrorists or tyrants.

Identifier nos ancêtres inconnus dans les cimetières québécois |  Radio-Canada.ca

That said I will not celebrate the lives of everyone to whom life was given, for we do judge people by the acts that they do.

That a man of religious principle died in battle at the mere age of 47 is cause for sadness.

That a man of religious principle accepted the executions of Anabaptists and a food blockade against Catholic cantons is not cause for commemoration.

My journey, my walk, sought to understand Zwingli and what he represents to the Swiss celebrating his legacy.

I respect his legacy that lives on in the confessions, liturgy, and church orders of the Swiss Reformed churches of today, but I sincerely doubt that had we met that I would have liked him.

In my own way I did get a sense of what his life was like by visiting the places where he once lived.

I do not know in absolute certainty whether I would have acted as he, had my life experience been his.

I do know that Zwingli’s life was remarkable enough to relate it to my readers in the hopes that they might better understand his significance to the Swiss people with whom I lived with for a decade.

I believe that every person is my superior in that I may learn from them.

And the Zwingli walk was certainly…..

Educational.

Zwingli-Wege: Auf den Spuren des kleinen Ueli | «Die Reformation geht  weiter… »

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Yvonne and Marcel Steiner, Zwingli-Wege: Zu Füss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis – Ein Wander- und Lesebuch

Canada Slim and the Succulent Collection

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Friday 13 November 2020

I have, since 12 November 2017, written a series of posts about my adventures and discoveries following a book’s walking itinerary that traces the “footsteps” and life of Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli, from his birthplace in the village of Wildhaus to his final resting place in Kappel am Albis.

Yvonne and Marcel Steiner, in their book Zwingli-Wege: Zu Fuss von Wildhaus nach Kappel am Albis – Ein Wander- und Lesebuch, break Zwingli’s life progression within Switzerland into nine separate walks.

I have translated sections of the Steiners’ book and have quietly and slowly explored their Zwingli walks, discovering places filled with heritage and surprisingly interesting.

Zwingli-Wege - Marcel Steiner, Yvonne Steiner - Buch kaufen | Ex Libris

What I want to make clear is that I am not a man of faith.

I am not a follower of any religion.

It is not my life’s purpose to steady the Ark.

It is not my desire to question someone’s faith in the idea of Noah’s salvationary floating zoo or in virgin births or in any manner of religious imagery.

I won’t question someone’s faith, but I do question someone’s insistence that I share that faith.

I seek neither to defend or attack faith.

I seek rather only to (somewhat, somehow) understand belief and why so many are compelled to follow its tenets.

I respect the notion of faith’s attempts to provide humanity with a moral compass, but I do wonder how many believers actually heed the bearings of the compass they profess to follow.

I am fascinated (and often repulsed) at both the moral and immoral acts that are committed in the name of a God whose existence is proven only by the argument that this existence cannot be disproven either.

I am surrounded by mankind’s monuments to faith but I am unconvinced that mankind practices what it professes.

There seems to be few places that mankind dubs “civilized” where monuments to faith are not present.

I am undecided as to whether this is a good or a bad thing.

I am not suggesting that all those of faith are bad individuals, but I do question whether one needs faith to act morally or whether faith can be justified when immorality is committed.

I have followed Zwingli’s life and footsteps not as a disciple following a chosen leader but rather as a simple man trying to comprehend the religious impulse that drove him (and drives others) to justify the things that are done in the name of faith.

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Above: Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

Between posts alternating between:

  • Alsace (France)
  • Italy
  • Lanzarote (Canary Island)
  • London (England)
  • Porto (Portugal)
  • Serbia (Belgrade and Nis)
  • Switzerland

….I have written of my explorations, of Zwingli’s life and the lands through which he travelled and sojourned, from Wildhaus to Kilchberg.

Karte Zürichsee.png

Above: Lake Zürich (Zürichsee)

Please see Canada Slim and…..

  • the Road to Reformation (12 November 2017)
  • the Wild Child of Toggenburg (20 November 2017)
  • the Thundering Hollows (27 November 2017)
  • the Basel Butterfly Effect (3 December 2017)
  • the Vienna Waltz (9 December 2017)
  • the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul (18 December 2017)
  • the Monks of the Dark Forest (8 January 2018)
  • the Privileged Place (26 January 2018)
  • the Lakeside Pilgrimage (24 April 2018)

Today, I want to start writing of the discoveries the walker can make following the shore of Lake Zürich from Kilchberg into downtown Zürich itself.

Kilchberg - Albis-Uetliberg - ZSG Pfannenstiel 2013-09-09 14-34-19.JPG

Above: Kilchberg

Above: Lake Zürich and the Limmat River as seen from Zürich’s Grossmünster

The Steiners recommend walking from Kilchberg via Nidelbad and Wollishofen, following in parallel fashion the route of the Lake Zürich railway line.

Strecke der Linksufrige Zürichseebahn

And certainly the Steiners’ idea has merit, for their path meanders through forest and offers wonderful glimpses of the beautiful panaroma of the entire Lake below.

Above: Lake Zürich in winter as seen from Uetliberg

There were two reasons I opted against this idea:

First, I wanted to walk beside the Lake despite the urbanization and traffic a stroll here meant.

Second, the Steiners’ book was not the only book I carried.

Duncan J.D. Smith’s Only in Zürich: A Guide to Unique Locations, Hidden Corners and Unusual Objects, based on the author’s personal experiences walking through the city on the Limmat, offers new and innovative perspectives on this region.

Smith reveals the Zürich of Roman ruins and medieval walls, of hidden gardens and little-known museums, of unusual shops and converted factories.

So it was Smith’s guide rather than the Steiner book that I followed from Kilchberg to the Grossmünster in downtown Zürich, even though the sites seen in this walk were not as focused on Huldrych Zwingli as Zwingli Wege.

What follows below is a description of that walk.

It is my hope that you will enjoy reading about it as much as I enjoyed walking and describing it.

Only in Zurich Buch von Duncan J. D. Smith versandkostenfrei - Weltbild.ch

Kilchberg to Zürich, Saturday 19 August 2018

I descended from Kilchberg down to the water’s edge and eventually my feet found their way along Seestrasse (Lake Street) heading ever northward to the Big City, where all roads in Switzerland seem to lead.

Top: View over Zürich and the lake Middle: Fraumünster Church on the river Limmat (left), and the Sunrise Tower (right)

Above: Images of Zürich

When Zürich was “zu reich

Fear.

Anxiety.

Anger.

Desperation.

These are the moods of the moment.

Moods that drive people to the streets, bounded into a movement, draped in hopelessness and yet driven by hope.

Protesters protest in the belief, however modest, that their voices on the street will be heard.

On 30 May 1980, a protest staged by youth activists outside Zürich’s Opera House (Opernhaus Zürich) turned violent.

A three-day celebration of the Zürich Opernhaus and the opening of a festival was celebrated on 30 May 1980.

Uninvited, about 200 protesters crashed the festival opening and demanded an autonomous youth center.

The communal Stadtpolizei Zürich (Zürich city police) and state Kantonspolizei (Zürich canton police) police corps were informed beforehand and were stationed in the foyer of the opera house as a precautionary measure.

As the youths occupied the exterior stairs of the Opera House, the demonstration degenerated into a street battle between demonstrators and the police, who were equipped with water cannons, tear gas and rubber bullets.

The youth protests culminated on 30/31 May 1980, at the present Sechseläutenplatz square in Zürich, but later spread throughout the whole city.

A public referendum also contributed to the riots, as the city of Zurich planned to grant CHF 61 million for a renovation and an extension of the Opera House, but nothing for the planned Rote Fabrik cultural center in Zürich-Wollishofen, by the Zürichsee lakeshore.

The protestors felt that the demands of the young people for their own cultural center had been ignored for years and that the astronomical grant for the Opera House demonstrated this lack of commitment to youth by Zürich’s conservative government.

Their reaction was a “long pent-up anger” as seen on a newspaper headline.

Züri brännt” has since become a household word, and is the title of a punk song by the band TNT.

Andreas Homoki, director of the Opera House, described the situation in the “hot summer of 1980” as explosive, and that “there was not enough room for a youth culture” because of a lack of alternative governmental cultural programs for the youth in Zürich.

Operahaus Zürich (31943376567).jpg

Above: Opernhaus Zürich

Months of rioting between police and protesters ensued and the orderliness for which the City was renowned was turned upside down.

By the time peace was restored, shops were wrecked, cars burned, thousands arrested, many injured, and one woman had died after setting herself on fire in protest.

Zürich was like a war zone and the outside world was stunned.

Most surprising of all the cause was less about political ideology and more about the lack of government support for the city’s alternative arts scene.

Zürich: Opernhauskrawalle als Initialzündung für die «Bewegung»

Above: The Opernhauskrawalle (opera house protest)(or Züri branntZürich burns), 30 May 1980

The Zürich riots were played out against a backdrop of a society in flux.

A rebellious European youth counterculture was manifesting itself in punk music, anarchistic art movements, and squatting protests.

The conservative authorities in straight-laced Zürich struggled to accommodate it – and little wonder that the city was ripe for rebellion as at the time there was an 2300 hours curfew and dancing was forbidden on religious holidays.

One of several watering holes that defied the curfew was the Helvti Bar in the basement of the Hotel Helvetia at Stauffacherquai 1 in the district of Werd.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL ⋆ HOTEL HELVETIA Zürich

Students, artists, musicians and journalists from the leftist newspaper Tages Anzeiger regularly discussed the countercultural revolution here well in the wee hours of the morning.

Tages-Anzeiger, 28 May 1923 (page 1, cropped).jpg

They also assembled here to take part in the great street marches that defined the era.

Since the early 1970s Zürich’s youth movement had been growing steadily more frustrated at the lack of public funding and work space for a new generation of artists.

Pleas for the establishment of youth centres were repeatedly turned down and so instead the counterculture focused itself on two big community squats.

(The film is in German – worse yet, Swiss German – but I think the images need no translating.)

The first took place in 1980 inside a former silk mill at Seestrasse 395 (Wollishofen district) on the shore of the Zürichsee.

Constructed in 1892, the building had been set for demolition before the Council earmarked it for use by the Opera, which was about to be renovated at taxpayers’ expense.

It was this decision that triggered the protest in May 1980 by those who felt ignored in favour of “elitist” venues.

Whereas squats in municipal premises elsewhere in Switzerland have remained illegal it is indicative of Zürcher pragmatism that in 1987 the Rote Fabrik (red factory) collective voted to apply for permanent legal status and an arts subsidy from the City Council.

They were successful.

Rotefabrik.jpg

Above: The Rote Fabrik (red factory)

Today the alternative heart of the Rote Fabrik still beats loudly by providing studio and performance space for artists thanks to public funding.

Indeed, even Zürich’s most conservative newspaper the New Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) has been known to review the avant-garde dance and drama performed at the venue!

NZZ-newspaper-cover.jpg

The second great squat occurred in 1991 when a group of artists moved into the newly empty Wohlgroth gas meter factory on Zollstrasse (Gewerbeschule district) alongside the city’s main railway line.

The squatters quickly erected a sign on the building to greet arriving trains that imitated an official Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) sign.

Instead of “ZÜRICH” it read “ZUREICH” (too rich) and guaranteed fury from the Establishment.

Wohlgroth-Areal: Räumung in Zürich nach grosser Hausbesetzung

The Wohlgroth squat became a cause célèbre and quickly developed into a thriving alternative arts centre.

Concerned at not being able to generate income from the building the owner eventually offered to relocate the squat elsewhere but his offer was rejected.

Shortly afterwards in 1993 the building was cleared by police using tear gas and water cannons.

Vor 25 Jahren wurde das Wohlgroth Areal geräumt

It might have pleased the squatters to know that the Industrie Quartier (industrial quarter)(District 5) to the west of Zollstrasse would later be transformed into Zürich West, the pulsating heart of the city’s new subculture.

(The Rote Fabrik is open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 1100 to 0000 and on Fridays and Sundays from 1100 to 0100.)

The Kaiser’s paddle steamer

It is a little-known fact that Europe’s first iron-hulled ship was the steam ferry Minerva, which made its inaugural cruise across the Zürichsee on 19 July 1835.

Minerva (Schiff, 1834) – Wikipedia

Above: The Minerva

Many vessels have worked the Lake since then and the ferries of the Lake Zürich Shipping Company (Zürichsee Schifffahrtsgesellschaft).

Zürichsee Schifffahrtsgesellschaft (ZSG)

In amongst the modern ferries, however, there is one especially historic vessel.

Built a little over a century ago the Stadt Zürich (city of Zürich) is the oldest paddle steamer (Raddampfer) on the Lake and a piece of floating history.

ZSG - Stadt Zürich IMG 3201.JPG

When not racing from port to port the Stadt Zürich can be found moored at the shipping company’s harbour on Mythenquai in Wollishofen (Wollishofen Schiffstation).

A visit to the dock around 0700 hours or 1900 hours provides the opportunity of having the vessal to one’s self (albeit viewed from the path overlooking the harbour) as opposed to sharing it with the 750 passengers it can hold when in service.

The Stadt Zürich was built for the Lake Zürich Shipping Company by the Zürich engineering firm Escher, Wyss & Cie.

Launched on 8 May 1909 she was the 32nd commercial ferry on the Zürichsee after the Minerva.

Her maiden voyage took place on 12 June and immediately it was clear she was something special.

Like her sister vessel the Stadt Rapperswil (1914), also built to satisfy the increasing popularity of lake steamers, the Stadt Zürich had several novel features, including a spacious Art Nouveau-style First Class saloon on the upper deck and short smoke stacks.

In her first year of service the Stadt Zürich sailed over 12,000 kilometres and burned over 250,000 kilos of coal.

Although many cantonal and municipal dignitaries sailed on the maiden voyage of the Stadt Zürich, undoubtedly the vessel’s most famous passenger was German Kaiser (emperor) Wilhelm II (1859 – 1941).

Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany - 1902.jpg

Above: Kaiser Wilhelm II

On the evening of 4 September 1912, Wilhelm boarded the steamer with his retinue and made a tour of the Lake.

The vessel was adorned with flowers, strict dress regulations were applied, tea and German beer were served.

Fireworks were let off along the shoreline as the vessel steamed by.

It is interesting to note that ship’s stoker Jakob Stampfer was replaced for the evening because of his anti-imperial and Social Democratic political views.

Kaiser Wilhelm (Schiff, 1871) – Wikipedia

During the First World War ferry services on Lake Zürich were reduced and in December 1918 stopped altogether by the Swiss Federal Council because the country had to import coal.

Service resumed in 1919.

Between 1922 and 1939 the Stadt Zürich was overhauled on several occasions, receiving new boiler tubes and new paddle wheels.

In 1938 the vessel was fitted for the first time with electric heating.

During the Second World War the boilers of the Stadt Zürich were kept filled around the clock and her engines in perfect running condition in readiness for possible military activity.

Her services were not required and instead she was upgraded from coal to oil in 1951, at which point her original crew of eight was reduced.

It was also during the 1950s that the sun awning on the upper deck was replaced by a solid roof and the original Art Nouveau salon fittings stripped out.

By the 1980s the two paddle steamers were the last of their type and had been replaced for daily ferry services by modern diesel powered vessels.

The old steamers were not to be abandoned though and instead the Lake Zürich Shipping Company decided to preserve and restore them and use them for special services.

It was at this time that the interior of the Stadt Zürich was lovingly restored to its original appearance.

Further upgrades occurred in 2003 with the result that today both vessels offer the thrill of travel by paddle steamer combined with all the comforts of a modern ferry.

Still going strong a century after her launch the Stadt Zürich has now travelled well over 700,000 kilometres.

(For more information, including prices and timetables, please see http://www.zsg.ch.)

(Another relic of the steam age is the little locomotive Schnaagi Schnaagi built in 1899.

It runs on the last Sunday of the month between April and October along the Sihl Valley between Bahnhof Wiedikon and Sihlwald. )(http://www.museumbahn.ch)

ZMB Zürcher Museums-Bahn ZMB Zürcher Museums-Bahn

Above: The Schnaagi Schnaagi

The Island of Women

Themiscyra (Greek: Θεμίσκυρα Themiskyra) was an ancient Greek town in northeastern Anatolia.

It was situated on the southern coast of the Black Sea, near the mouth of the Thermodo.

According to Greek mythology, it was the capital city of the Amazons, a tribe of warrior women.

Themyscira is a fictional unitary sovereign city-state island appearing in American comic books published by DC Comics.

Themyscira is a segregated nation of women — regarded as a feminist Utopia — governed by Aphrodite’s Law, which declared that the Amazons would be immortal as long as no man set foot on their island.

Subsequently, any man attempting to set foot on Themyscira, does so under penalty of death.

Themyscira is the theocracy and capital city that serves as the Amazonian government and the place of origin for Wonder Woman.

Wonder Woman (2017 film).jpg

Just north of the Wollishofen shipyard, where the ferries of the Lake Zürich Shipping Company are docked, lies the tiny island of Saffa.

Connected to the shore by a bridge, and with little to distinguish it beyond a clump of trees, Saffa ain’t much to look at.

The island’s unusual name, however, recalls a very interesting story.

Above: Saffa Island

Saffa today is an island for all seasons.

In summer it is popular with bathers.

It autumn it doubles as a theatre stage.

In winter, when the Lake is frozen, Saffa provides a welcome feeding ground for swans and ducks.

It is hard to imagine that barely more than 50 years ago the island did not exist at all.

Saffa-Insel Zürich

So what does Saffa mean?

Is it perhaps Greek?

Does it have some connection to saffron?

Above: Saffron crocus, Crocus sativus, with its vivid crimson stigmas and styles

SAFFA is an acronym for the Schweizerische Ausstellung für Frauenarbeit (Swiss Exhibition for Women’s Work), which took place on the shoreline here between 17 July and 15 September 1958.

Hochparterre - Kultur - Zeitzeuginnen der SAFFA 1958 gesucht

Material excavated for the construction of the exhibition buildings was not taken away but rather dumped offshore, together with material from the excavation of the Enge road tunnel, creating SAFFA Island in the process.

The exhibition’s landmark was a 35-metre high, eight-storey tower erected immediately north of the island on the Landiwiese.

Visible for miles around the tower acted as an advertisement for the exhibition, which the locals dubbed Frauenland (women’s land).

Ansichtskarte Zürich, SAFFA 1958, Wohnturm: (1958)  Manuskript / Papierantiquität | Bartko-Reher

Above: SAFFA Tower

Above: SAFFA exhibition, Zürich, 1958

The exhibition, the 2nd of its type after an earlier one staged in Bern in 1928, was organized by numerous women’s groups and was a major national event.

Above: SAFFA exhibition, Bern, 1928

Its purpose was to illustrate the position and importance of Swiss women in the family, the workplace and in Swiss society as a whole.

With a daily programme of concerts, congresses and other events, it proved a great success, attracting two million visitors.

Inside the tower were constructed a series of rooms in which the many and varied roles of Swiss women in the 1950s were represented, from the young apprentice in her rented room and the well-to-do homemaker in her detached family home to the retired lady in an old people’s home.

SAFFA 1958: Im Pavillon der Mode

SAFFA presented women who were wanted in the booming economy as consumers and workers, their possibilities in the areas of education, employment, shopping and leisure.

Emphasizing that women had to absorb negative impacts of the rapidly changing world, nevertheless, by spreading harmony inside and outside of their families.

A curious costume, Champery.jpg

Men should be made aware of women in the service of the general public, of their indispensability and so be motivated to fix the social discrimination against women.

With the profits from the two exhibitions, solidarity works were established for women.

Saffa 1958: Zur Rolle der Schweizerin - SWI swissinfo.ch

Tradition dictates that the place of Swiss women is in the home in charge of housework and child care.

Being in a society with strong patriarchal roots, Swiss tradition also places women under the authority of their fathers and their husbands.

Such adherence to tradition changed and improved when the women of Switzerland gained the right to vote on the federal level on 7 February 1971.

However, despite gaining status of having equal rights with men, some Swiss women are still unable to attain education beyond the post-secondary level, thus they earn less money than men and occupy lower-level job positions.

According to swissinfo.ch in 2011, Switzerland’s State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (Seco) were encouraging business companies to “appoint more women to top-level positions“.

Those who are already working in business companies, according to same report, mentions that “women earn on average 20% less than men” in Switzerland, and the ratio was six out of ten women were working part-time.

The novel idea for the SAFFA tower came from the exhibition’s chief architect, Annemarie Hubacher.

Her celebration of womanhood was an early stab at Swiss feminism, although it may now appear tame to some.

Notably it still clung to the traditional three-phase model laid out for women – training for a career, motherhood, and the return to gainful employment.

Hubacher typified the situation for some women at the time in that she was 37 years of age, a mother of two and expecting a third, and a partner in her husband’s architectural practice.

SAFFA 1958: Die Architektin

Above: Annemarie Hubacher

Men were also represented in the exhibition – and again in a stereotypical manner.

Alongside the nearby railway a cable car was erected for male visitors, as well as an artificial petrol station, a punching bag and a rifle range.

One must remember that women were still in the thrall of men and that prior to the exhibition an attempt at granting Swiss women the right to vote had been rejected.

The first federal vote in which women were able to participate was the 31 October 1971 election of the Federal Assembly.

Bundeshaus - Nationalratsratssaal - 001.jpg

Above: Chamber of the Swiss National Council

In 1991 following a decision by the Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland, Appenzell Innerrhoden (AI) became the last Swiss canton to grant women the vote on local issues.

Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland, 2020 (cropped).jpg

Above: Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland, Lausanne

AI is the smallest Swiss canton with 14,100 inhabitants in 1990.

Flag of Kanton Appenzell Innerrhoden

Above: Flag of Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden

Hubacher was no political activist though and it seems unfair she was criticized for not pushing female emanicipation farther with her exhibition.

Her son, however, was incisive about her lot as a Swiss woman:

She was always both: a family and a career person, but above all with love and soul an architect.

On a personal level he was referring to the fact that architecture ran in the family’s blood, one of their ancestors being Zürich city architect Gustav Gull (1858 – 1942) responsible for building the Landesmuseum Zürich (Swiss National Museum) at Museumstrasse 2 and the Amtshaus (administrative building) at Bahnhofquai 3.

(The Landesmuseum is open year-round Tuesday to Sunday 1000 – 1700, on Thursdays until 1900.

Above: Landesmuseum

The Amtshaus, with its glorious Giacometti Hall at its entrance, is open daily (0900 – 1100 / 1400 – 1600).

Identification must be shown upon entry.)

Amtshaus I - Stadt Zürich

Above: Amtshaus

Kunst und Bau Amtshaus I - Stadt Zürich

Above: Giacometti Hall

On a broader level, Annemarie’s son was speaking for many Swiss women who juggled with varying degrees of success their roles as wife, mother and professional woman.

Swiss women eventually gained the right to vote in 1971 (despite it being one of the demands of a general strike as far back as 1918) and a triumphant bronze statue by Swiss sculptor Hermann Haller (1880 – 1950) entitled Girl with Raised Hands still reminds the passer-by of the part Saffa Island played in the process.

Datei:Landiewiese - Mädchen mit erhobenen Händen (Hermann Haller) -  Landiwiese - Wollishofen 2012-03-12 13-50-24 (P7000).JPG – Wikipedia

Above: Hermann Haller’s Mädchen mit erhobenen Händen (Girl with Raised Hands)

(Haller’s studio is a highlight of Zürich’s Museum Bellerive at Höschgasse 3, open March to October, Tuesday / Wednesday / Friday / Sunday (1000 – 1700) / Thursday (1000 – 2000), and November to February, Tuesday to Sunday (1000 – 1700)

MfGZ from scaffold.jpg

Above: Museum Bellerive (design museum)

Quite by coincidence, an equally triumphant but far smaller work called Girl in the Wind by German artist Otto Münch (1885 – 1965) has graced the nearby main road since 1936, when it was placed there by the City of Zürich.

Münch’s work is one of the most charming but little-known public sculptures in Zürich.

File:Landiwiese - Mädchen im Wind (Otto Münch) 2015-05-06 14-18-31.JPG -  Wikimedia Commons

Above: Otto Münch, Mädchen im Wind (Girl in the wind)

Against the odds several Swiss women have left an important impression on their country during the 20th century, especially in Zürich.

They include Paulette Brupbacher (1880 – 1967), who promoted the rights of mothers and wives despite a ban of her speaking publically.

Paulette Brupbacher - Anarcopedia

Above: Paulette Brupbacher

Brupbacher is recalled together with her husband in a monument in the church cemetery in Höngg.

Prominenten- und Ehrengräber auf den Friedhöfen der Stadt Zürich - Stadt  Zürich

(The small Höngg church with its cemetery at Am Wettingertobel 38 is accessible Sunday to Friday (0800 – 1800). )

Kirche Höngg (Zürich) – Wikipedia

Above: Kirche Höngg (Höngg Church)

Another woman who encountered problems in her work was Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853 – 1901), niece of the Heidi author Johanna Spyri.

Emelie was the first Swiss woman to graduate in law but was denied access to the bar because of her gender.

(UAZ) AB.1.0518 Kempin-Spyri 01.jpg

Above: Emelie Kempin-Spyri

Artwork in her memory by the artist Piplotti Rist (famous for St. Gallen’s City Lounge) can be found in the courtyard of the University of Zürich.

UZH - Media - Universität Zürich ehrt Emilie Kempin-Spyri mit Denkmal von Pipilotti  Rist

Above: The Spyri chair, Pipilotti Rist

Despite these events being a long time ago, women are still not allowed to join Zürich’s guilds.

Zunfthaus zur Waag - Lindenhof 2011-04-11 16-32-54 ShiftN.jpg

(It was the brave women of Zürich who defended the Lindenhof against attack by the Habsburg Duke Albrecht I (1282 – 1308) as far back as 1292.

AlbrechtI.jpg

Above: Duke Albrecht I

At the time the men of Zürich were away waging a battle in Winterthur.

This episode is recalled by the Hedwig Fountain on the Lindenhof, which includes the helmeted figure of a female warrior.)

The Succulent Collection

The suburban quarter of Enge lies on the western shores of Zürichsee.

For the most part a residential area, Enge numbers among its attractions the Museum Rietberg (a museum dedicated to non-European art) and the Seebad Enge Lido (an open-air public bathing area).

On the same road as the Lido, however, there is something quite unique for Switzerland:

One of the largest and most important collections of succulent plants in the world.

Mythenquai - Sukkulentensammlung 2015-02-26 11-48-05.JPG

Zürich’s Succulent Collection (Sukkulentensammlung) at Mythenquai 88 is easy to find since the nearby bus stop is named after it.

The Collection was inaugurated in September 1931 after Jules Brann, a local department store owner, donated an already renowned collection of succulents to the City of Zürich, which still maintains it to this day.

Above: Interior at visitors’ entry

The statistics of the current collection are impressive:

50,000 individual plants representing 6,500 species from more than 80 botanical families, displayed across an area of 4,750 square metres, including six show houses, 700 square metres of glasshouses (for acclimatization, breeding, over-wintering and protection), 550 square metres of heated bedding frames, as well as open-air rockeries for frost-hardy plants.

There is also an extensive seed collection and a herbarium containing 14,000 dried plant specimens for botanical reference and research.

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

Little wonder that the Collection is the official repository for the International Organization for Succulent Plant Study (IOS).

Today there are basically two large international organizations conducting research and conservation on succulent plants:

  • International Organization for Succulent Plant Study (IOS)
  • Sociedad Latinoamericana y del Caribe de Cactáceas y otras Suculentas (SLCCS)
    (Latin American and Caribbean Society of Cactaceae and Other Succulents)

Above: Austrocylindropuntia shaferi, San Lucas, Chuquisaca, Bolivia 

The IOS

In 1947 the Swiss gardener and cactus expert Hans Krainz (1906–1980) dealt with the idea of uniting existing national cacti organizations (for example, the German Cactus Society, the Austrian Cactus Society, and the Swiss Cactus Society) under a single umbrella organization, the European Cactus Society, while maintaining their independence.

However, a first call, which had been sent by him at the end of 1947, found no resonance, just after the end of World War II.

Крайнц, Ханс — Википедия

Above: Hans Krainz


In spring of 1950, a letter signed by Hans Krainz, Franz Buxbaum (A) and H. Michael Roan (GB) was sent by the Board of Trustees of the Scientific Fund of the Swiss Cactus Society to about 50 well-known succulent researchers and other botanists, which invited to the 1st International Congress of Succulent Researchers for 27 September 1950.

The participants in this congress agreed in just a few days on a statute on which basis the IOS was founded on 30 September 1950 with the aim “to promote the study and conservation of succulent and allied plants and to encourage international co-operation amongst those interested in them“.

About Us | IOS

Above: IOS logo

The Organization reached significant international status at the 3rd IOS Congress 1955 in London with the accession of 15 members from non-European countries.

View of Tower Bridge from Shad Thames

From 1984 until 1998, the members met annually with the introduction of Inter-Congresses.

In these years the reports in the IOS Bulletins show high productivity, an active participation, and a challenging academic program.

In 1994, the number of members reached an all time high of 239.

Around the turn of the century, IOS seems to have lost its drive and drifted into a ‘crisis of meaning’.

The membership began began to decrease considerably.

Above: Lobivia bertraminiana, Iscayachi, Tarija, Bolivia

In a somewhat unfriendly takeover of the IOS Board in 2006, the new Secretary, Dr David Hunt, attempted a revival of IOS.

For some time the membership increased slightly again to about 160 – on paper.

However, Hunt’s endeavour for gaining, maintaining, extending and securing his exclusive control over the IOS and its financial resources, his refusal to unclose financial documents even to members of the IOS Executive Board, and the oppression of a free election for the Executive Board 2014-2016, eventually led to the demand of a worried group of members to immediately exclude Dr Hunt from the IOS for his continued acts against the interest of IOS, the IOS Statutes and the IOS Code of Conduct.

With the support of the President of the IOS, Hunt remained in the position of Secretary, which resulted in great loss of (mainly continental European) members.

IN MEMORIAM. | IOS

Above: Dr. David Hunt

The time-honored IOS continues to exist in elitist seclusion at the brink of irrelevance.

Many see the survival of the IOS in a move “back to the roots“.

Above: Espostoa guentheri, Nuevo Mundo, Santa Cruz, Bolivia 

As an European Organization for Succulent Plant Research (EOS), as originally envisaged by Hans Krainz.

This way, today’s IOS could become a valuable partner on an equal footing, for example, with the modern-run Latin American and Caribbean Society of Cactaceae and Other Succulents, which has similar goals.

A division of tasks between researchers in the homelands of succulent plants and researchers in Europe, focussing more on conservation and well-maintained and documented living collections, could be of benefit for both sides and lead to significant synergy effects and cost savings in joint projects.

Considering that mainly European plant collectors have explored the habitats of cacti and other succulents over a long period of time (not seldom causing damage), a repatriation program of species in vitro could be considered to areas where populations have been lost.

SLCCS

The SLCCS


The Latin American and Caribbean Society of Cactus and Other Succulents was founded in 1989 and the official statutes were approved in Havana, Cuba, on the V. Latin American Congress of Botany in 1990.

The mission of the SLCCS is to encourage and stimulate scientific research on cacti and other succulents in Latin America and the Caribbean, support initiatives for the conservation of these plants, disseminate the information generated from the studies carried out and contribute to the professional training of people interested in acquiring basic and applied knowledge about cacti and other succulents.


en:slccs [Bibliothèque numérique du CF]

To fulfill this mission, SLCCS sets the following objectives:

  • Involve people interested in the study and conservation of cacti and other succulents in Latin America in the activities of the Society, through the membership program.
  • Encourage the creation of national representations of the Society in each Latin American country.
  • Conduct periodic organizational meetings of the members of the Society.
  • Disseminate scientific information and general interest about these plants throughout Latin America.
  • Support local initiatives focused on the study and conservation of these plants.
  • Encourage the creation of botanical gardens and protected areas dedicated to the care and propagation of these plants.

Since September 2004, SLCCS has been offering a public electronic newsletter (Boletín), which is a very practical mass communication channel among people interested in the study and cultivation of cacti and other succulents in Latin America and elsewhere.

Regrettably, this excellent service had to be temporarily suspended in 2013 due to staff shortages.

Above: Echinopsis schickendantzii, Chuquisaca, Bolivia 

Some very basic botanical knowledge would certainly enhance a visit to the Succulent Collection.

Most importantly it should be borne in mind that while cacti are classified as succulents, not all succulents are cacti.

The word “succulent” is a descriptive term for plants living in dry areas of the tropics and subtropics, such as steppes, deserts, sea coasts and dry lakes.

They have adpated to high temperatures and low precipation by storing water in their leaves or stems, enabling them to survive long periods of drought.

Cacti form a distinct group of succulents known as Cactaceae, but it is not their spines that create the distinction, since some cacti are smooth (like most Lophophoras) and there are some prickly succulents (such as Agaves and Euphorbias).

Classification is made not on external characteristics such as the presence of spines or leaf shape but rather on the basis of their reproductive systems.

All cacti have spine cushions known as areoles, which usually appear like small, fluffy cotton-like protusions.

The spines, hairs, branches and flowers of a cactus will only grow out of these cushions, whereas the prickly parts of other succulents exhibit an entirely random growth pattern.

Sukkulentensammlung - Innenansicht 2015-01-05 15-46-48 (P7800).JPG

The taxonomy of the plants on display can be complex, but need not concern most visitors, who will be more than happy just to marvel at some of the most curiously shaped plants in the world.

Representing every arid region on Earth they include towering prickly cacti, lethally spiked Agaves, rosette-shaped Aloes, Euphorbias exuding bitter milky juice and tropical Epiphytes suspended from the glasshouse ceilings.

Agave americana R01.jpg

Above: Agave Americana

Above: Aloe africana

Above: Euphorbia baylissii

Above: Epiphyte Tillandia bourgaei growing on an oak tree in Mexico

Probably the most curiously shaped is the blue candle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans) from Central America, which because it is prone to abnormal growth patterns at its tips is nicknamed “dinosaur back“.

Above: Myrtillocactus geometrizans, UNAM Botanical Garden, Mexico City

20% of the Collection’s plant holdings come from a variety of horticultural origins, with 45% hailing from the wild, mainly in the form of seeds.

The rest come predominantly from seed obtained through controlled pollination and the propagation of plant cuttings.

Flowering time for many of the plants in the Collection is between May and June, although some are still blooming in September.

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

Most unusual of all is the night-blooming Selenicereus grandiflorus from Central America.

Known also as the Queen of the Night, it starts its annual bloom at dusk and is finished by dawn.

Johann Jacob Haid Cereus.jpg

It is considered so unusual that that the blooming is announced on local radio and the Collection opens all night for visitors.

(For blooming times, visit http://www.foerderverein.ch.)

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

(The Succulent Collection is open from 0900 to 1630.)

(https://stadt-zuerich.ch/sukkulenten)

Sukkulenten-Sammlung Zürich - Stadt Zürich

Where Wagner met his muse

One of Zürich’s loveliest public green spaces is the Rieter Park at Seestrasse 110 (Enge district) on the west bank of Zürichsee.

Within this leafy parkland stand no less than three grand villas.

Once private they are owned today by the City of Zürich, which uses them to house one of Switzerland’s few museums dedicated to non-European art.

Fortunately for visitors the internationally-renowned collection is usually referred to by the easier-to.remember name of Museum Rietberg!

Above: Villa Wesendonck / Museum Rietberg

The magnificent neo-classical Villa Wesendonck at Gablerstrasse 15 was erected in 1857 for the wealthy silk merchant Otto von Wesendonck and his poetess wife Mathilde.

Above: Bas relief of Otto von Wesendonck (1815 – 1896)

Above: Mathilde von Wesendonck (née Luckemeyer) (1828 – 1902)

In 1852 the pair encountered the composer Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883) and his wife Minna, who had fled to Zürich following the 1849 May Uprising in Dresden.

The head and upper torso of a young white woman with dark hair done in an elaborate style. She wears a small hat, a cloak and dress that expose her shoulders and pearl earrings. On her left hand that holds the edge of the cloak, two rings are visible.

Above: Wilhelmine “Minna” Wagner, née Planer (1809 – 1866)

Dresdner Maiaufstand.jpg

Above: Prussian and Saxon troops assault revolutionary barricades in the Dresden Neumarkt

A printed notice in German with elaborate Gothic capitals. Wagner is described as 37 to 38 of middle height with brown hair and glasses.

Above: Warrant for the arrest of Richard Wagner, 16 May 1849

Otto was a great admirer of Wagner and in 1856 offered him the use of a cottage on the Wesendonck estate.

Above: Richard Wagner

During this time Wagner became well acquainted with Mathilde Wesendonck and used her poems in his Wesendonck Lieder, a five-song cycle composed while working simultaneously on Die Walküre.

Some commentators claim that Wagner and Mathilde had an affair.

Above: Wagner Stele, Rieter Park

Above: Wagner Stele in Rieter Park

Whatever the truth their mutual infatuation contributed to the intensity of the first act of Die Walküre, as well as having a discernible effect on Mathilde’s poems during this period.

Incidentally, Wagner once sang the first act of his Die Walküre in Zürich’s luxurious Baur au Lac Hotel, accompanied by Franz Liszt on piano!

Above: Baur au Lac Hotel, Zürich

Above: Franz Liszt (1811 – 1886)

In 1872 the Wesendoncks sold their mansion and gardens to the family of cotton manufacturer Adolf Rieter.

Logo Rieter.svg

Above: Logo of Rieter AG, Winterthur-based manufacturer of textile machinery

It was during this period that the German Kaiser Wilhelm II (1888 – 1918) stayed for several nights as a guest.

Above: Potrait of Kaiser Wilhelm II

At the end of the Second World War, the City of Zürich acquired the Villa and Park, and renovated both.

Around the same time the City was bequeathed the private non-European sculptural collection of Baron Eduard von der Heydt (1882 – 1964) and it was decided to house it in the Villa, as a result of which the Museum Rietberg opened in 1952.

The collection is today spread across four different buildings.

The Villa Wesendonck is used to display religious and ceremonial objects from America, India, Oceania and Southwest Asia (as well as some unsettling Shrovetide masks from Switzerland).

Schweizer Masken - Museum Rietberg

In Room 28 amongst the wonderful Buddhist art from India and Pakistan is the bronze of a four-armed dancing Shiva, surrounded by a ring of fire.

Shiva Nataraja - Museum Rietberg

An underground extension to the Museum was opened alongside the Villa in 2007, more than doubling the exhibition space.

Designed by Alfred Grazioli and Adolf Krischanitz, the extension is called the Smaragd (an allusion to a poem by Mathilde Wesendonck used in Wagner’s third song) and is entered by means of a green glass pavilion.

File:Zürich Museum Rietberg Haus Smaragd.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

Above: The Smargd, Museum Rietberg

Of particular note amongst the African, Japanese and Chinese holdings is the Han Dynasty bronze horse in Room 2, the colourful glazed Tan Dynasty figurines in Room 4, the 17th century Noh theatre masks in Room 11 and the large cloisonné Ming jar in Room 7.

File:Han Pferd Bronze Museum Rietberg img01.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

File:Modell Schafstall östliche Han-Dynastie Museum Rietberg.jpg -  Wikimedia Commons

File:No-Maske Mikazuki Museum Rietberg.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

File:Ming Pilgerflasche Museum Rietberg U 138.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

On the two floors of the nearby Park Villa Rieter are displayed exquisite examples of Islamic, Persian and Indian paintings, prints and calligraphy.

The collection of North Indian miniatures is one of the world’s finest.

Villa Rieter – Wikipedia

Above: Park Villa Rieter, Museum Rietberg

A secret Garden - Museum Rietberg

In the northern part of the Park at Gablerstrasse 14 stands the 4th and final element in the Museum complex.

The red brick Villa Schönberg was built in the late 19th century by the Rieter family and remained in private hands until the 1970s.

Narrowly escaping demolition it too was acquired by the City of Zürich and is used today as a specialist non-leading library.

Villa Schönberg - Stadt Zürich

Above: Villa Schönberg

Worth noting are the orangery, grotto and turret-shaped pavilion in the garden.

As well, look for the bust of Wagner lurking amongst the shrubbery.

Gärten der Welt — Auf zur Grottentour

(The Museum Rietberg – including Villa Wesendonck, Smaragd and Park Villa Rieter – is open Tuesday / Friday / Sunday (1000 – 1700) and Wednesday / Thursday (1000 – 2000). ) (https://rietberg.ch)

(Another charming former private estate lies between Rieter Park and Lake Zürich, Belvoir Park at Seestrasse 125 was purchased in 1826 by Heinrich Escher, who erected a neo-classical Villa there.

His railway-building son Alfred Escher (1819 – 1882), whose memorial fountain stands in front of Zürich Main Station (Hauptbahnhof Zürich), later occupied the Villa, which like those in Rieter Park was eventually acquired by the City of Zürich.

Above: Alfred Escher statue above fountain, Bahnhofplatz, Zürich

The Park is today open to the public and the Villa serves as a restaurant and school of catering.)

Belvoirpark – Wikipedia

Above: Villa Escher, Belvoir Park, Zürich

The Island of Tranquillity

Zürichsee stretches from the City of Zürich and the Limmat River as far south as the Seedamm at Rapperswil, beyond which point it is known as the Obersee (Upper Lake).

Within Zürich’s city boundaries the shores of the glacial lake contain many popular attractions, most notably Zürichhorn Park in Seefeld, where one can find the Johann Jacobs Museum (a shrine to coffee), the Centre Le Corbusier (the only structure of its kind in the world, a total work of art), the aforementioned Museum Bellerive, and the Chinese Garden.

Above: Zürichhorn

Above: Jean Tinguely’s Heureka, Zürichhorn

Johann Jacobs Museum Zürich.jpg

Above: Johann Jacabs Museum

Above: Centre Le Corbusier

Above: Chinese Garden

Budding Robinson Crusoes, however, might prefer to escape the crowds – and indeed the city – by boarding a ferry at Bürkliplatz and sailing down into the Canton of Schwyz to visit the historic island of Ufenau.

Above: Bürkliplatz

An hour and a half sailing time brings ferries to the south side of the island and it quickly becomes apparent that Ufenau offers an intimate experience, since it measures only 470 by 220 metres.

(Despite this, it is the largest island in Switzerland!)

A designated Insel der Stille (Island of Tranquillity), Ufenau has been a protected nature reserve since 1927, where swimming and camping are strictly forbidden.

Insel Ufenau, Ansicht vom Etzel (Berg)

Above: Ufenau Island, Zürichsee, Canton Schwyz

At the end of the jetty a wheelchair-friendly track signposted “Inselweg” makes an anticlockwise circuit of the Island.

Wikiloc | Picture of Insel Ufenau Inselweg 1 (1/2)

Above: Inselweg

The most prominent structure other than the popular restaurant Zu den Zwei Raben is the Church St. Peter and St. Paul, which was erected in the 1140s.

Restaurierung Haus zu den zwei Raben Insel Ufnau | Schweizer  Baudokumentation

Above: Restaurant Zu den Zwei Raben (of the two ravens), Ufenau Island

Documentary evidence points to an earlier church on the same site around 970, although worship here dates back farther than that.

Archaeologists have uncovered walls beneath the church that belonged to a Gallo-Roman temple from the 1st or 2nd century.

The temple was connected with the Roman trading centre of Centum Prata (today the modern village of Kempraten), which acted as a commercial centre on the alpine trade route out of Rome.

The route also included the Roman trading post of Turicum where modern Zürich now stands.

Even older Stone Age remains on the Island from around 4000 BC may also have had some religious significance.

St. Peter und Paul (Ufnau) – Wikipedia

Above: Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, Ufenau Island

The temple was destroyed sometime after the Roman withdrawl from the area in the early 400s.

Thereafter the first Christian church was probably erected on the former site of the temple during the 5th century.

The Island is first mentioned by name in 741, when it is referred to as the Island of Huphan.

After the first church was destroyed by the Huns around 900, Burchard II Duke of Swabia (917 – 926) appears on the scene.

Burchard II. (Würzburg)

In 919 he defeated King Randolph II of Upper Burgundy (912 – 937) and seized the area around Zürich.

Rudolph Burgundy.jpg

Above: Rudolph of Burgundy

Burchard’s son Adalrich died on Ufenau in 973 (he was canonized in 1659) and his wife was buried at Einsiedeln Abbey, to whom Ufenau was given in 965 by the Holy Roman Emperor Otto I (962 – 973).

The Island is still in the hands of the Abbey’s Benedictine monks and the wooden bridge straddling the Lake between nearby Rapperswil and Hurden is used by the Abbey’s pilgrims walking the Way of St. James (Jakobsweg).

The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul served for many years as parish church for the villagers of Lake Zürich’s upper shores, a task it shared with the more modest Chapel of St. Martin a few metres away from it.

Datei:St. Martinskapelle (Ufenau) 2011-07-25 17-09-36 ShiftN.jpg – Wikipedia

Above: St. Martin’s Chapel, Ufenau Island

In 1523 the pastor of Ufenau advised the leader of the Swiss Reformation Hildrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531) to offer sanctuary on Ufenau to the outspoken Lutheran reformer Ulrich von Hutten (1488 – 1523).

Ulrich von Hutten an Ufenau, wo er einen letzten Ausweg für Zwingli, Relief  an der Tür der Grossmünster ('große Münster') Kirche in Zürich vorbereitet  Stockfotografie - Alamy

Above: Relief of Ulrich von Hutten on door of Zürich’s Grossmünster

Hutten died on Ufenau two years later and is buried alongside the church, which since the 1980s has been flanked by a vineyard.

Ufnau Hutten Pfäffikon

Both church and chapel were damaged during the Second Villmergen War (Toggenburg War), waged between Reformed and Catholic Swiss cantons in 1712 from 12 April to 11 August.

Karte Zweiter Villmergerkrieg 1712.png

Above: Switzerland during the Toggenburg War: Protestants (green) / Catholics (yellow)

The Protestant side was successful, bringing to an end Catholic hegemony in the Old Swiss Confederacy, and staving off further conflict until civil war broke out again in 1847 (3 – 29 November), the Sonderbundskrieg (Sonderbund War) that led to the formation of Switzerland as a federal state in 1848.

Sonderbund War Map English.png

Since then peace and tranquillity has returned to the Island of Ufenau.

Above: Ufenau Island

From Ufenau Island I take a boat back to Burkliplatz.

I am in Zürich proper now and soon I shall, soberly as I can, consider the value of a man’s life and whether faith followed fanatically is wise in emulating….

Above: Grossmünster, Zürich

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / YouTube / Duncan J.D. Smith, Only in Zurich / Yvonne and Marcel Steiner, Zwingli Wege / http://www.iosweb.org

Canada Slim and the Humanitarian Adventure

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 10 December 2019

There are things in Switzerland (and in our existence) that we simply take for granted:

And the thing about Swiss stereotypes is that some of them are true.

Diplomatic?

Yes.

Efficient?

Absolutely.

Boring?

Only at first glance.

Despite being one of the most visited countries in Europe, Switzerland remains one of the least understood.

It is more than simply the well-ordered land of cheese, chocolate, banks and watches.

It is more than a warm summer mountain holiday upon a cobalt blue lake, more than skiing down the slopes of some vertiginous Alp, more than postcard pristine beauty.

It is easy for the tourist to remain blissfully unaware of Swiss community spirit, that it speaks four official languages, that it possesses stark regional differences from canton to canton, that it has exubrant carnivals, culinary traditions and sophisticated urban centres.

 

Flag of Switzerland

 

With its beautiful lakeside setting, Geneva (Genève) is a cosmopolitan city whose modest size belies its wealth and importance on the world stage.

French-speaking and Calvinistic it is a dynamic centre of business with an outward-looking character tempered by a certain reserve.

Geneva’s major sights are split by the Rhône River that flows into Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) and through the city’s several distinct neighbourhoods.

On the south bank (rive gauche), mainstream shopping districts Rive and Eaux-Vives climb from the water’s edge to Plainpalais and Vieille Ville, while the north bank (rive droite) holds grungy bars and hot clubbing Pâquis, the train station area and some world organizations.

 

A view over Geneva and the lake

 

A little over 1 km north of the train station is the international area, home to dozens of international organizations that are based in Geneva –  everything from the World Council of Churches to Eurovision.

Trains and buses roll up to the Place des Nations.

Gates on the Place des Nations open to the Palais des Nations, now occupied by UNOG, the United Nations Office at Geneva, the European headquarters of the United Nations, accessible only to visitors who sign up for a tour.

The huge monolith just off the square to the west, that looks like a bent playing card on its edge, is WIPO (the World Intellectual Property Organization), the highrise to the south is ITU (the International Telecommunications Union), just to the east is UNHCR (the United Nations High Commission for Refugees), and so on, and so on, and so on, an infinite combination of letters of the alphabet in an infinite variety of abbreviations and acronyms.

The giant Broken Chair which looms over the square was installed in 1997 for the international conference in Ottawa (Canada’s capital) banning the use of land mines, a graphic symbol of the victims of such weapons.

 

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Geneva is also the birthplace of the International Red Cross / Crescent / Crystal Movement.

And it was the latter, along with the International Museum of the Reformation, that compelled me to visit Geneva.

 

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(For details about the Musée Internationale de la Réforme, please see Canada Slim and the Third Man in my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slim.)

 

Genevè, Suisse, mardi le 23 janvier 2018

Housed within the HQ of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), the Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant Rouge chronicles the history of modern conflict and the role the Red Cross has played in providing aid to combatants and civilians caught up in war and natural disasters.

Enter through a trench in the hillside opposite the public entrance of UNOG and emerge into an enclosed glass courtyard beside a group of bound and blindfolded stone figures.

The stone gathering represents the continual worldwide violation of human rights.

 

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Inside, above the ticket desk, is a quotation in French from Dostoevsky:

Everyone is responsible to everyone else for everything.

 

Portrait by Vasili Perov, 1872

Above: Fyodor Dostoevsky (1821 – 1881)

 

A free audioguide takes you through the Museum.

 

Twenty-five years ago, Laurent Marti, a former ICRC delegate, had the idea of creating the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum.

 

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Above: Laurent Marti

 

Marti won the wives of US President Ronald Reagan and Soviet Premier Gorbachev over to his cause in a bid to obtain the support of their respective countries, together with that of local and international societies and personages and of various multinational companies representing a full range of human activities.

 

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Above: Nancy Reagan (née Davis) (1921 – 2016)

 

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Above: Raisa Gorbacheva (née Titarenko) (1932 – 1999)

 

The goal of the Museum is to emanate a very powerful atmosphere where no one leaves without having been shaken and deeply moved by what they had seen.

Suffering, death, wounds and mutiliations can be followed by a time of healing, restoration, reunification and an opportunity to be happy again, a right that seemed to have been withdrawn.

Of course, the scars remain deep within the human soul, but the hope of restoration and of a return to normalcy is the message of the Museum.

 

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The International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is dedicated to preventing and alleviating human suffering in warfare and in emergencies, such as earthquakes, epidemics and floods.

The Movement is composed of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies, and the 188 individual national societies.

Each has its own legal identity and role, but they are all united by seven fundamental principles:

  •  humanity
  •  impartiality
  •  neutrality
  •  independence
  •  voluntary service
  •  unity
  •  universality

The interactive chronology covers one and a half centuries of history, starting with the creation of the Red Cross.

For each year, the events listed include:

  •  armed conflicts which caused the death of more than 10,000 people and/or affected more than one million people
  •  epidemics and disasters that caused the deaths of more than 1,000 people and/or affected more than one million people
  •  significant events in the history of the Movement
  •  cultural and scientific milestones

 

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In 1859 Henri Dunant was travelling on business through northern Italy.

 

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Above: Henri Dunant (1828 – 1910)

 

He found himself close to the Solferino battlefield just after the fighting.

The battle of Solferino was a key episode in the Italian Wars.

 

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With the support of France under Napoleon III, Victor Emmanuel II of Savoy, King of Piedmont, endeavoured to unite the different Italian states.

In spring 1859 the Piedmont forces clashed with the Austrian Empire, which had control over Lombardy and Venetia.

On 24 June 1859, the Franco-Piedmontese troops defeated the Austrians at Solferino, in a battle that left more than 40,000 dead and wounded.

Overwhelmed by the sight of thousands of wounded soldiers left without medical care, Dunant organized basic relief with the assistance of the local people.

 

 

On that memorable 24th of June 1859, more than 300,000 men stood facing each other.

The fighting continued for more than 15 hours.

No quarter is given.

It is a sheer butchery, a struggle between savage beasts.

The poor wounded men that were picked up all day long were ghastly pale and exhausted.

Some, who had been the most badly hurt, had a stupified look.

How many brave soldiers, undettered by their first wounds, kept pressing on until a fresh shot brought them to earth.

Men of all nations lay side by side on the flagstone floors of the churches of Castiglione.

The shortage of assistants, orderlies and helpers was cruelly felt.

I sought to organize as best I could relief.

The women of Castiglione, seeing that I made no distinction between nationalities, followed my example.

Siamo tutti fratelli” (we are all brothers), they repeated feelingly.

 

Above: Ossuary of Solferino

 

But why have I told of all these scenes of pain and distress?

Is it not a matter of urgency to press forward to prevent or at least alleviate the horrors of war?

Would it not be possible, in time of peace and quiet, to form relief societies given to the wounded in wartime?

Societies of this kind, once formed and their permanent existence assured, would be always organized and ready for the possibility of war.

Would it not be desirable to formulate some international principle, sanctioned by a Convention inviolate in character, which, once agreed upon and ratified, might constitute the basis for societies for the relief of the wounded?

 

Above: Ossuary of Solferino

 

Back home in Geneva, Dunant wrote A Memory of Solferino.

The book was published in 1862 and was an immediate success.

 

 

In it, Dunant made two proposals:

  • the formation of relief societies which would care for wounded soldiers
  • the establishment of an international convention to guarantee their safety

Those ideas led, the following year, to the foundation of the Red Cross, and ten months later to the first Geneva Convention.

 

 

In 1863, in response to Dunant’s appeal, Gustave Moynier persuaded the Geneva Public Welfare Society to consider the possibility of training groups of volunteer nurses to provide relief for the wounded.

A committee was set up, the International Committee for Relief to the Wounded, the future ICRC, was born.

 

Above: Gustave Moynier (1826 – 1910)

 

The need to defend human dignity has been a constant concern throughout history.

From the Code of Hammurabi (1750 BC) to the Universal Declaration of Human Rights (1948), texts from all periods and cultures exist to testify to that.

Those texts were frequently written in response to incidents in which human dignity was shown no consideration – slavery, chemical weapons, civilian bombing, concentration camps, atomic bombing, sexual violence, landmines, child soldiers, prisoners with no legal status.

Throughout time mankind has determined:

  • that the strong should not suppress the weak (Code of Hammurabi – Mwaopotamia 1750 BC)

Above: Stele of the Code of Hammurabi

 

  • that peace is possible between warring nations (Treaty of Kadesh, the oldest peace treaty known to man and the first written international treaty –  Egypt 1279 BC)

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Above: Treaty of Kadesh

 

  • that we should be free to practice our own religions (Cyrus Cylinder – Persia 539 BC)

Front view of a barrel-shaped clay cylinder resting on a stand. The cylinder is covered with lines of cuneiform text

Above: Cyrus Cylinder

 

  • that we should not do unto others what we don’t wish done to ourselves (The Analects of Confucius – China 480 BC)

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Above: The Analects

  • that we should live lives of non-violence with respect towards all (The Edicts of Ashoka – India 260 BC)

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Above: The Edicts of Ashoka

 

  • that power should not be used arbitrarily nor imprisonment without just cause (The Magna Carta – England 1215)

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Above: Magna Carta

 

  • that all persons are free and that no one is a slave to another (The Manden Charter – Mali 1222)

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Above: The Manden Charter

 

  • that women and children and the insane have dignity and rights that must be respected (The Viqayet – Muslim Spain 1280)

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  • that mankind has natural and inalienable rights (freedom, equality, justice, community) (Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen – France 1789)

 

  • that the wounded need to be treated regardless of nationality, that all human beings are free and equal in dignity and in rights (Universal Declaration of Human Rights – United Nations 1948)

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The original title of the initial Geneva Convention was the Convention for the Amelioration of the Condition of the Wounded in Armies in the Field.

It had only ten articles and one sole objective:

To limit the suffering caused by war.

Article 7 provided for the creation of the protective emblem of the red cross.

This document laid the foundations of international humanitarian law, marks the start of the humanitarian adventure.

By 2013, 194 nations are party to the Geneva Conventions of 12 August 1949.

(See http://www.icrc.org for the complete list.)

 

The Museum explains how the Geneva Conventions developed from one man’s battlefield encounter.

After Dunant’s publication of A Memory of Solferino in November 1862, Gustave Moynier (1826 – 1910), chairman of the Geneva Public Welfare Society, in response to Dunant’s appeal, persuaded Society members the following February to consider the possibility of training groups of volunteer nurses to provide relief for the war wounded.

An ad hoc committee was set up – the International Committee for Relief to the Wounded.

The future ICRC was born.

 

Above: ICRC Headquarters, Geneva

 

Ambulances and military hospitals shall be recognized as neutral and as such protected and respected by the belligerants as long as they accommodate wounded and sick.” (Article 1)

Inhabitants of the country who bring help to the wounded shall be respected and shall remain free.” (Article 5)

Wounded or sick combatants, to whatever nation they may belong, shall be collected and cared for.” (Article 6)

A distinctive and uniform flag shall be adopted for hospitals, ambulances and evacuation parties.” (Article 7)

A red cross on a white background was adopted in 1863, followed by a red crescent, a red lion and red sun (1929) and a red crystal (2005).

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Flag of the Red Crescent.svg

Red Lion with Sun.svgFlag of the Red Crystal.svg

 

To protect the victims of conflict, the ICRC has at its disposal several instruments defined by international humanitarian law.

“At all times, parties to the conflict shall, without delay, take all possible measures to search for and collect the wounded and sick.”

“The civilian population as such, as well as individual civilians, shall not be the object of attack.”

“The parties to the conflict shall endeavour to conclude local agreements for the passage of medical personnel and medical equipment.”

“Civilian hospitals may in no circumstances be the object of attack.”

“It is prohibited to commit any acts of hostility directed against historic monuments, works of art or places of worship.”

“Works or installations containing dangerous forces, namely dams, dykes and nuclear stations shall not be made the object of attack.”

“It is prohibited to attack, destroy, remove or render useless objects indispensible to the survival of the civilian population.”

 

Above: The Red Cross in action, 1864

 

The Second World War (1939 – 1945) involved 61 countries in war and caused the death of around 60 million people, more than half of whom were civilians.

In 1945 more than 20 million people had been displaced.

In 1995 the ICRC publicly described its attitude to the Second World War Holocaust as a “moral failure“.

 

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Above: Images of World War II (1939 – 1945)

 

The persecution of the Jews by the Nazis began shortly after Hitler came to power in 1933 and subsequently continued to intensify, culminating in systematic extermination from 1942 onwards.

 

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Above: Auschwitz, Poland, May 1944

 

At the time, the ICRC had no legal instrument to protect civilians.

The 1929 Convention relative to the Treatment of Prisoners of War applied only to members of the armed forces.

The organization thus considered itself powerless in the face of the anti-Semitic fury of the Nazi dictatorship.

 

Flag of Germany

 

Thus in October 1942 the Committee refused, in particular, to launch a public appeal on behalf of civilians affected by the conflict.

Although the International Red Cross endeavoured to provide aid for Jewish civilians, it erred on the side of caution.

 

Above: Jewish women, occupied Paris, June 1942

 

It was not until the spring of 1944 that a change of strategy took shape.

As Germany’s war efforts collapsed, ICRC delegates belatedly managed to enter some concentration camps, becoming voluntary hostages in order to prevent the further massacre or forced evacution of the prisoners.

 

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Above: Auschwitz, May 1944

 

The harsh lesson of the Second World War had been learned.

In 1949 the Fourth Geneva Convention was adopted:

It provides protection for civilians during armed conflict.

It was complemented in 1977 by additional protocols which reinforce the protection given to victims of armed conflicts, international or domestic.

In particular, the additional protocols established the distinction between civilians and combatants.

 

In an armed conflict, the ICRC’s mandate is to ensure respect for the Geneva Conventions.

When the ICRC observes serious violations of the Conventions, it points them out to the countries concerned in confidential reports.

However, on occasion, that information has been published in the press:

  • Le Monde during the Algerian War

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Above: Images of the Algerian War (1954 – 1962)

 

  • The Wall Street Journal about Abu Ghraib Prison

Above: Lynndie England with “Gus“, Abu Ghraib Prison, Iraq

 

  • The New York Review of Books / Wikileaks about Guantanamo Prison

Above: Guantanamo “Gitmo” Prison, Cuba

 

Such leaks put the ICRC in a difficult position as discretion is a necessary part of its work and its discussions with the authorities.

Its confidentialiy policy actually facilitates access to detainees, wounded people and groups of civilians.

When humanitarian diplomacy fails, the ICRC then resorts to a more open form of communication.

It then issues press releases publicly condemning serious violations of the Conventions.

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In the 1980s the United Nations Security Council set up ad hoc tribunals to judge the crimes committed in former Yugoslavia and in Rwanda.

In 1998 the International Criminal Court (ICC) was established.

It was a permanent institution with the power to open investigations, to prosecute and to try people accused of committing war crimes, genocide or crimes against humanity.

The ICC began its work in 2005 by opening three investigations into crimes:

  • in the Democratic Republic of the Congo
  • in Uganda
  • in the Sudan

The existence of a permanent international court gives the world the means of determining facts and of punishing those responsible for the crimes.

It gives victims an opportunity to have their voice heard.

 

Official logo of International Criminal Court Cour pénale internationale  (French)

Above: Logo of the International Criminal Court

 

Poverty, migration, urban violence….

All of them are present-day threats to human dignity.

All over the world, large sections of the population are living in extremely precarious hygenic conditions.

 

Economic changes are forcing more and more people to emigrate.

Those migrants, who frequently have no identity documents, are exploited and ostracized.

In some megacities, whole districts are at the mercy of armed groups which terrorize the inhabitants.

Each of those situations presents a challenge to which a response must be found.

 

Above: Syrian refugees, Ramtha, Jordan, August 2013

 

Since the First World War, the ICRC has had the right to visit prisoners of war and civilian detainees during an international armed conflict.

In other situations, the right to meet prisoners must be negotiated with the authorities.

Visiting prisons, talking to the detainees and making lists of their names are ways of preventing disappearances and ill treatment.

After each prison visit, ICRC delegates write a report.

They must have access to all places of detention and be allowed to repeat their visits as often as necessary.

The visits always follow the same procedure.

Following a meeting with those in charge of the prison, the delegates inspect the premises: cells, dormitories, toilets, the exercise yard, the kitchen and any workshops.

They draw up a list of prisoners and interview them in private without witnesses.

At the end of the visit, the delegates inform those in charge of the prison of their observations.

They then prepare a confidential report for the authorities.

 

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The visitor sees many photographs of prison visits, including those to a German POW camp in Morocco, to French POWs in a German Stalag, political detainees in Chile, detainees in Djibouti….

But it is items from these visits given by prisoners to the ICRC delegates that tell far more emotional stories.

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Some examples:

  • a model village showing ICRC activities in Rwanda
  • a doll figure of a female delegate made in an Argentinian prison
  • a pearl snake made by Ottoman prisoners
  • a necklace with a Red Cross pendant made by a lady prisoner in Lebanon
  • a ciborium (a container for Catholic mass hosts – symbols of the body of Christ) made of bread by Polish prisoners of conscience
  • a bar of soap carved into the shape of a detainee in a cell made by a Burmese artist imprisoned for suspected ties to the opposition party

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An installation in the Museum that followed seemed somewhat incongruous….

Therein the visitor can change and produce large flows of different colours by touching a wall.

The idea is that the larger the number of visitors, the richer the flow of colours, so as to provide an interactive experience that appeals to people’s senses, emotions and feelings, thus all visitors become part of a colourful celebration of human dignity.

Honestly….

This felt more like a gimmick to capture children’s hyperactive attention than an exhibit that strengthens human unity, designed more to entertain than educate.

 

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Human beings are social beings who are defined by their links with others.

When those links are broken, we lose part of our identity and our bearings.

Of the many activities the ICRC performs, the giving and receiving of news and finding one’s loved ones again are understood to be elements of stability that are critical during crisis situations.

 

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This Museum has, like the Reformation Museum in this city, as other museums in other cities and countries I have visited, its own Chamber of Witnesses – video testimonials whose lifelike likenesses are meant to invoke within the voyeur a sense of how we are not unlike those speaking with us electronically.

We see Toshihiko Suzuki, a dentist and specialist in craniofacial anatomy, tell us how he identified victims of the 2011 tsunami.

We learn of the experience of Sami El Haj, an Al Jazeera journalist held in Guantanamo from 2002 to 2008.

We consider the life of Liliose Iraguha, a survivor of the Rwandan genocide.

We marvel at the resilience of human beings by listening to Boris Cyrulnik, a French neuropsychiatrist and ethologist.

 

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During a conflict or a natural disaster, many people are cut off from their families – by capitivity, separation or disappearance.

Tracing one’s loved ones and passing on one’s news become basic needs.

 

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Originally intended for victims of war, the ICRC tracing services subsequently expanded to include persecuted civilians.

More recently, tracing activities have been extended to families who have become separated as a result of natural disasters or migration.

The International Prisoners of War Agency (1914 – 1923) was established by the ICRC, shortly after the start of the First World War – which involved 44 states and their colonies and caused the death of more than 8 million people, 20 million wounded and in the immediate post-war period of epidemics, famine and destitution another 30 million deaths.

Organised in national sections, its archives contain six million index cards that document what happened to two million people: prisoners of war, civilian internees and missing civilians from occupied areas.

The cards contain information about individual detainees. when they were taken captive, where they were held and, if relevant, when they died.

People who were without news of a loved one could present a request to the Agency, which would then send them what information it had.

Today the Agency’s documents are still used to reply to requests from families as well as to enquiries from historians.

And, as far as I could tell, the Agency is now in the Museum.

It contains:

  • 5,119 boxes with 6 million index cards
  • 2,413 files containing information provided by the belligerents
  • 600,000 pages filling 20 linear metres of general files

This location is fitting for it was in the Rath Museum in Geneva where the Agency once was.

In all, more than 3,000 volunteers, most of them women, worked there during the conflict.

During the War, the Agency dispatched 20 million messages between detainees and their families and forwarded nearly 2 million individual parcels as well as several tonnes of collective relief.

The Agency’s role was also to obtain the repatriation of prisoners who had been taken captive in breach of the Geneva Conventions: doctors, nurses, stretcher bearers and military chaplains.

It helped to ensure that the wounded were returned home or interned in neutral countries.

 

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The pacifist writer Romain Rolland was one of the Agency’s first volunteers:

Its peaceful work, its impartial knowledge of the actual facts in the belligerent countries, contribute to modify the hatred which wild stories have exasperated and to reveal what remains of humanity in the most envenomed enemy.

 

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Above: Romain Rolland (1866 – 1944)

 

It was not until the end of the Second World War that Europe realized the extent of the tragedy affecting civilians.

The International Tracing Service (ITS) was then established.

The ITS has files on more than 17 million people: civilians persecuted by the Nazis, displaced persons, children under the age of 18 who had become separated from their families, forced labourers and people held in concentration camps or labour camps.

The ITS was set up in Bad Arolsen, Germany, and has helped millions of people to trace their loved ones.

 

Above: International Tracing Services, Bad Arolsen, Germany

 

Nowadays, the need to trace missing people also extends to the victims of natural disasters and to migrants, using not only index cards, but photo tracing (used to find nearly 20,000 children missing during the 1994 genocide in Rwanda), distributions of name lists (for example, the Angola Gazette – a list of people who went missing during the Angolan Civil War from 1975 to 2002) and the Internet (for example, http://www.familylinks.icrc.org).

 

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Despite all tracing efforts, sometimes missing people do not get found, do not go home.

In that case, receiving confirmation of death puts an end to uncertainty and enables families to begin the process of mourning and to start to rebuild their lives.

The erection of memorials is one way of honouring the dead and of giving them a place of dignity in the collective memory.

 

 

For example, in 1995 the city of Srebrenica was attacked by forces under the command of General Radko Mladic.

 

 

Mladic had the women and children of this refuge of hounded Muslim civilians separated from the men and forced to leave Srebrenica.

The men were hunted down and killed.

More than 8,000 people went missing.

By 2010 only 4,500 victims had been identified and buried.

 

 

When faced with a collective tragedy and without a dead body, families are completely at a loss.

A memorial is sometimes their only means of paying tribute to the dead, of giving them a place in the collective consciousness and of recalling the events that led to those disappearances.

Examples include victims from:

  • the 1945 atomic bombing of Hiroshima

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Above: Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbuko Dome)

 

  • the deportation of Jews from France

 

  • the Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia

 

  • the Soviet gulags

Solovetsky Stone

 

  • the nuclear disaster in Chernobyl, Ukraine

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  • the civil war in Peru

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  • the earthquake in Sichuan, China

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  • the 9/11 attack in New York City

 

Communication is often disrupted during a conflict or a natural disaster.

In circumstances like that, receiving news from one’s family is a source of joy and relief.

There are different ways of sending news:

  • Red Cross messages (in use for more than a century)
  • Radio messages
  • Videoconferencing
  • Satellite telephones

 

A Red Cross message is a short personal missive that was first used in the Franco-Prussian War (1870 – 1871).

It is still in use today.

Each year, thousands of messages are distributed in more than 65 countries with the help of the ICRC.

To make sure that they reach the addressees, messengers sometimes travel long distances to extremely remote areas.

The messages themselves are generally very simple.

The main thing is to enable people to pass brief news on to their loved ones – their state of health, their place of shelter or detention.

 

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For example, the Museum shows messages:

  • sent by a French POW to his godmother in Switzerland
  • exchanged by a French POW in Morocco and Algeria and his family in France
  • written by aircraft passengers taken hostage in Jordan in 1970
  • illustrated by children during the Yugoslav conflict in 1994
  • by a Sudanese detainee in Guantanamo
  • from a Greek child refugee following the Cyprus conflict of 1974
  • from a mother to her son in Liberia
  • from a little girl writing to her parents in the Congo
  • written by a woman to her brother in prison in Kirghizstan

 

In Columbia, the radio programme Las voces del secuestro broadcasts family messages to people held hostage in the jungle, enabling more than 18,000 people to send news to their loved ones.

 

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In Bagram Prison in Afghanistan, no family visits are allowed, so in 2008 the ICRC and the American authorities developed a videoconferencing system to enable the detainees to communicate with their loved ones.

In the space of just a few months, 70% of the detainees were able to contact their families.

 

Above: Parwan Detention Facility, Bagram, Afghanistan

 

And finally the Restoring Family Links exhibition concludes with works by Congolese artist Chuck Ledy and Benin artist Romuald Hazouma.

 

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Humanity has progressed by refusing to accept the inevitability of the phenomena that endanger it.

In the face of natural disasters and epidemics, communities take action to prevent the worst, to save lives and to preserve resources.

Another Chamber of Witnesses:

  • Benter Aoko Odhiambo, the head of a Kenyan orphanage and the initiator of a market gardening programme
  • Abul Hasnat, a Bangladeshi school teacher and a Red Crescent volunteer
  • Madeleen Helmer, the Dutch head of the ICRC Climate Centre
  • Jiaqi Kang, a Chinese student in Switzerland

 

After all, prevention concerns us all.

Blast Theory, a group of British artists, designed the game Hurricane to test the effectiveness of natural disaster preparedness activities.

Planting mangroves, constructing high-level shelters, building up reserve stocks of food and organizing evacuation exercises are all part of the game and involve actors such as ICRC delegates, village leaders, experts and volunteers.

As the hurricane strikes, the players have to evacuate the villagers.

At the end of the game tells us how many lives were saved.

 

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Posters are key communication instruments in prevention initiatives.

The link between pictures and text makes the messages easy for everyone to understand.

The Museum’s collection of some 12,000 posters from more than 120 countries tells of the many different activities developed by the ICRC.

Nowadays, as the impact of global warming becomes clearer, the ICRC is increasingly involved in natural disaster preparedness.

 

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The ICRC was very quick to perceive the role that the cinema could play in promoting its activities.

Some films focused on prevention – hygiene, epidemics and accidents.

Others on training volunteers in first aid or life saving.

While preventing illnesses and accidents is ancient history, the management of risks associated with natural disasters is a more recent development.

A workshop at the Haute école d’art et de design (Gèneve) was given a free hand to create new montages using more than 1,000 films from the Museum’s collection.

 

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Above: Haute école d’art et de design, Genève

 

Prevention is first and foremost about saving lives.

A number of different measures can be taken to provide protection: building shelters, installing early warning systems, carrying out evacuation exercises and providing hygiene education.

All these activities mobilize the local communities and the humanitarian organizations.

They sometimes call for substantial investment.

It is easy to raise funds during disasters when emotions are running high.

It is more difficult to raise funds for longer-term work.

Nonetheless, one dollar invested in prevention is two to ten dollars saved in emergency relief and reconstruction work.

 

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All of this is brought into sharp focus by the three “théâtres optiques” (Cyclone, Tsunami and Latrines), created for the Museum by the French artist Pierrick Sorin.

 

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Above: Pierrick Sorin

 

Let’s take, for example, Bangladesh.

 

Flag of Bangladesh

Above: Flag of Bangladesh

 

In 1970, Cyclone Bhola caused one of the worst natural disasters in history.

A 10-metre high wave and winds of 220 km/hour caused the death of 500,000 people here.

A cyclone preparedness programme was then launched, which included an early warning system, the construction of shelters and the training of evacuation volunteers.

 

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In November 2007, Cyclone Sidr, one of the most powerful ever recorded, hit parts of Bengal and Bangladesh, affecting nearly 9 million people and causing vast economic damage.

1.5 million people were evacuated before the Cyclone struck.

Although 3,500 people died, this number of deaths was far below the 1970 disaster.

 

 

Or let’s consider Brazil.

 

Flag of Brazil

Above: Flag of Brazil

 

Infectious diarrhoea can affect people throughout the world.

It is most frequently caused by water that has been contaminated by faeces.

Around 2 million people die from diarrhoea every year, most of them children in developing countries.

In 2008 more than 2 billion individuals were without suitable latrines.

Almost half of them defecated in the open air.

In 1997, the authorities in Salvador de Bahia in Brazil launched a water purification programme in the city.

A university team monitored 2,000 children under the age of 3, most of whome were living in impoverished urban districts.

The results showed that water purification had a direct impact on health:

The overall number of cases of diarrhoea fell by 22% in the city and by 43% in the poorest areas.

 

From the top, clockwise: Pelourinho with the Church of the Third Order of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People; view of the Lacerda Elevator from the Comércio neighborhood; Barra Lighthouse; the Historic Center seen from the Bay of All Saints; monument to the heroes of the battles of Independence of Bahia and panorama of Ponta de Santo Antônio and the district of Barra.

Above: Images of Salvador de Bahia, Brazil

 

The Museum was never designed with the intention of casting blame or lavishing praise upon particular countries or particular individuals, but rather it shows the situations, both general and particular, in which the ICRC functions and to further a better understanding of what they do.

The ICRC aids victims, not on account of their particular nationality or their particular cause, but purely and simply because they are human beings who are suffering and are in need of help.

It strives to assuage all human distress which has no hope of effective aid from other sources.

The ICRC desires to relieve above all that suffering which is brought about by man, brought about by man’s inhumanity to man, and is more painful on that account and more difficult to relieve.

 

The most terrible form of man’s inhumanity to man is war and that is why the idea of the Red Cross was born in the field of battle.

The Red Cross is a third front above and across two belligerent fronts, a third front directed against neither of them but for the benefit of both.

The combatants in this third front are interested only in the suffering of the defenceless human being, irrespective of his nationality, his convictions or his past.

The ICRC fights wherever they can against all inhumanity, against every degradation of the human personality, against all injustice directed against the defenceless.

These neutrals on this humanitarian front are free of the prejudice and hostility which is so natural to men engaged in warfare.

The dominant idea and the essence of the Geneva Convention is equality of treatment for all sick and wounded persons whether they are friends or enemies.

 

It is the fulfilment of the cry of Solferine:

Siamo tutti fratelli.

We are all brothers.

 

 

The Museum is a living embodiment of that humanitarian adventure.

It is an edifice of humanity working for humanity.

And it is good.

 

John Lennon

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet Switzerland / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Red Cross Museum, The Humanitarian Adventure / The International Committee of the Red Cross, Basic Rules of the Geneva Conventions and their Additional Protocols / Dr. Marcel Junod, Warrior without Weapons

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Canada Slim and the Harry Potter Fado

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Friday 11 October 2019

As you read what follows….

Download a fado piece.

Portugal’s most famous musical form, fado (Portuguese for “fate“) is urban music, of night and bars, of a yearning that is beautiful and melancholic, accompanied by guitarra and viola.

 

Above: Fado, José Malhoa (1910)

 

To the south, fado is feminine.

But in the north, fado is a man’s music, full of lusty lyrics and soaring vocals, and usually the most memorable fado of all is performed by the least advertised, the most anonymous, performer of all, where one’s identity is overwhelmed by one’s soul.

Fado is to the Portuguese soul as rich, deep and satisfying as a cup of Portuguese coffee or a glass of Porto port.

Fado is played on the radio, on buses, in taxis, cafés and restaurants, on TV and drifting down darkened streets from shadowy clubs.

Fado is fate and how fate has foiled the lover in love and in life.

Fado is the homeland that is missed or the longing for a lover that has left.

To sing fado, the singer must become fadista with an attitude that cries out:

I am a pessimist, a nihilist and everything that fado demands from me is me.”

It is the mourning of a devil cast out of heaven, a broken heart beyond repair, a spirit beyond redemption….

 

 

What the hell was she thinking?

This is a question that American Catholic theologians are asking J.K. Rowling the creator of the Harry Potter franchise….

 

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Above: Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception, Washington DC – the largest enclosed church building in the world

 

Religious debates over the Harry Potter series of books by J. K. Rowling are based on claims that the novels contain occult or Satanic subtexts.

 

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A number of Protestant, Catholic and Orthodox Christians have argued against the series, as have some Shia and Sunni Muslims.

 

Above: The Kaaba, Mecca, Saudi Arabia – the Muslim destination of pilgrimage

 

Supporters of the series have said that the magic in Harry Potter bears little resemblance to occultism, being more in the vein of fairy tales such as Cinderella and Snow White, or to the works of C. S. Lewis and J. R. R. Tolkien, both of whom are known for writing fantasy novels with Christian subtexts.

Far from promoting a particular religion, some argue, the Harry Potter novels go out of their way to avoid discussing religion at all.

 

The Harry Potter logo first used for the American edition of the novel series (and some other editions worldwide), and then the film series.

 

However, the author of the series, J. K. Rowling, describes herself as a practising Christian, and many have noted the Christian references which she includes in the final novel Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

 

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In the United States, calls for the books to be banned from schools have led to legal challenges often on the grounds that witchcraft is a government-recognised religion and that to allow the books to be held in public schools violates the separation of church and state.

 

Flag of the United States

 

The Orthodox church of Bulgaria and a diocese of the Orthodox Church of Greece have also campaigned against the series, and some Catholic writers and officials have voiced a critical stance.

 

Church of St. George, Istanbul in 2010

Above: Patriarchal Cathedral of St. George, Istanbul (Constantinople)

 

The books have been banned from all schools in the United Arab Emirates.

 

Flag of UAE

Above: Flag of the United Arab Emirates

 

Religious responses to Harry Potter have not all been negative.

Rowling notes:

At least as much as they’ve been attacked from a theological point of view the books have been lauded and taken into pulpit, and most interesting and satisfying for me, it’s been by several different faiths.

 

Rowling in April 2010

Above: J.K. Rowling, 2010

 

From The Times, 3 December 2018

The Harry Potter books gave birth to a global franchise, provided steady work to grateful British actors and created millions of new readers, convinced of the magical properties of a good book.

 

A large crowd of fans wait outside of a Borders store in Delaware, waiting for the release of Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince

Above: Crowd outside a bookshop awaiting the midnight release of Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince

 

They also created a generation of Americans who are more likely to believe that they are possessed by the Devil, with Catholic priests reporting that they are overwhelmed with requests to perform exorcisms.

 

When I was appointed 13 years ago, I probably received maybe 100 inquiries a year.“, said Vincent Lampert, the official exorcist for the Archdiocese of Indianapolis.

Now I receive about 1,700 inquiries a year.

He thinks the Harry Potter books and films, which spurred a broad interest in magic, are partly to blame.

Magic is the focus on the individual, rather than having to deal with God.“, he said.

It encouraged “the belief that somehow the power is within them.

Even within the world of exorcism, the premise would be that God is not a bystander.

God is the main actor.

Priests who conduct exorcisms say occult practices and symbols can serve as doorways for a demon.

The Harry Potter books “disarmed Americans from thinking that all magic is darkness“, one unnamed exorcist recently told The Atlantic magazine.

 

Above: St. Francis Borgia performing an exorcism, Goya

 

Adam Jortner, a historian of religion in American life at Auburn University, Alabama, said it was not the first time that members of the church had feared the influence of children’s books.

The church had a go at C.S. Lewis for the Narnia books, a powerful allegory of Christianity itself.“, he said.

 

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Jortner agreed that interest in the occult had grown.

Harry Potter is responsible for mainstreaming magic.“, he said.

Exorcism had a clear history within the church and it sought to treat magic with respect.

He added:

The Catholic church has some of the most stringent rules about exorcism in the world.

Most Catholic exorcists are required to go through this long list of things to ensure that it is not a neurological problem.

Father Lampert said that all who sought his help were required to undergo an assessment by a medical professional, which ended most applications….

 

Above: St. Francis exorcising the demons of Arezzo, Giotto

 

When I read an article like this I am shocked to find that this sort of folly is taken seriously.

Putting aside for the moment the question of the existence of God, for which the largest defence is that God’s non-existence cannot be proven, and grasping with the notion that God possesses a team (angels) to battle another team (demons) led by His most bitter opponent (the Devil), then to further suggest that demons possess people….

This pushes rational credibility.

 

 

But then to blame the author of a series of children’s books for the rise in exorcism applications is utter poppycock in my opinion.

 

To play the Catholic advocate for a moment it can certainly be argued that children are gullible, easily influenced and misled.

But it insults the intelligence of our young people to suggest that they cannot discern the difference between a clever storyline and reality.

 

Could they believe in magic?

Sure, for there is much about existence that is difficult to explain.

But it stretches my incredulity that children, those poor deluded Muggles, would assume from a story that they too possess magical powers as the alumni and staff of Hogwarts do.

 

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Above: Model of Hogwarts, Warner Bros. Studio, Leavesden, England

 

Nonetheless, let us humour these men of the cloth for a moment….

Let us imagine (if that is even possible) that Harry Potter leads to the need for exorcism.

Over the years, some religious people, particularly Christians, have decried Rowling’s books for supposedly promoting witchcraft.

 

Rowling identifies as a Christian.

She once said:

I believe in God, not magic.

 

Early on, she felt that if readers knew of her Christian beliefs they would be able to predict plot lines of characters in her books.

In 2007, Rowling said she was the only one in her family who went regularly to church.

She was an adherent of the Church of England.

 

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As a student she became annoyed at the “smugness of religious people” and attended less often.

Later, she started to attend a Church of Scotland congregation at the time she was writing Harry Potter.

Her eldest daughter, Jessica, was baptised there.

 

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Above: Logo of the Church of Scotland

 

In a 2006 interview with Tatler magazine, Rowling noted:

Like Graham Greene, my faith is sometimes about if my faith will return.

It’s important to me.”

 

Greene in 1939

Above: Graham Greene (1904 – 1991)

 

She has said that she has struggled with doubt, that she believes in an afterlife and that her faith plays a part in her books.

In a 2012 radio interview, she said that she was a member of the Scottish Episcopal Church, a province of the Anglican Communion.

 

In 2015, following the referendum on same-sex marriage in Ireland, Rowling joked that if Ireland legalised same-sex marriage, Dumbledore (Headmaster of Hogwarts) and Gandalf (of the Lord of the Rings series) could get married there.

 

Flag of Ireland

Above: Flag of the Republic of Ireland

 

The Westboro Baptist Church, in response, stated that if the two got married, they would picket.

Rowling responded:

Alas, the sheer awesomeness of such a union in such a place would blow your tiny bigoted minds out of your thick sloping skulls.

 

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Above: Westboro Baptist Church, Topeka, Kansas

 

Is Rowling then guilty of intellectual or spiritual manslaughter by unintentionally killing children’s beliefs in God?

Or taking the concept to its ultimate crazy extreme….

Was this death of the divine within our children pre-meditated by Ms. Rowling?

Is she guilty of spiritual murder?

 

To answer this question with any certainty we must ask ourselves how and why did Rowling write the Harry Potter series.

To answer this question, come with me, back in time, both in Rowling’s past and my own….

 

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Joanne Rowling (born 31 July 1965), better known by her pen name J. K. Rowling, is a British author, film producer, television producer, screenwriter, and philanthropist.

 

Above: J.K. Rowling, 1999

 

She is best known for writing the Harry Potter fantasy series, which has won multiple awards and sold more than 500 million copies, becoming the best-selling book series in history.

The books are the basis of a popular film series, over which Rowling had overall approval on the scripts and was a producer on the final films.

 

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She also writes crime fiction under the name Robert Galbraith.

 

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Born in Yate, Gloucestershire, Rowling was working as a researcher and bilingual secretary for Amnesty International when she conceived the idea for the Harry Potter series while on a delayed train from Manchester to London in 1990.

 

Amnesty International logo.svg

 

The seven-year period that followed saw the death of her mother, birth of her first child, divorce from her first husband, and relative poverty until the first novel in the series, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, was published in 1997.

 

Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone Book Cover.jpg

 

There were six sequels, of which the last, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, was released in 2007.

 

Since then, Rowling has written five books for adult readers: The Casual Vacancy (2012) and—under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith—the crime fiction Cormoran Strike series, which consists of The Cuckoo’s Calling (2013), The Silkworm (2014), Career of Evil (2015), and Lethal White (2018).

 

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Rowling has lived a “rags to riches” life in which she progressed from living on benefits to being the world’s first billionaire author.

She lost her billionaire status after giving away much of her earnings to charity but remains one of the wealthiest people in the world.

She is the UK’s best-selling living author, with sales in excess of £238 million.

The 2016 Sunday Times Rich List estimated Rowling’s fortune at £600 million, ranking her as the joint 197th richest person in the UK.

Time named her a runner-up for its 2007 Person of the Year, noting the social, moral and political inspiration she has given her fans.

In October 2010, Rowling was named the “Most Influential Woman in Britain” by leading magazine editors.

She has supported multiple charities, including Comic Relief, One Parent Families, and Multiple Sclerosis Society of Great Britain, as well as launching her own charity, Lumos.

Lumos (charity) logo.png

Joanne Rowling was born in Yate, Gloucestershire, the daughter of science technician Anne (née Volant) and Rolls-Royce aircraft engineer Peter James Rowling.

 

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Above: View of Yate, Gloucestershire, England

 

Her parents first met on a train departing from King’s Cross Station bound for Arbroath in 1964.

They married on 14 March 1965.

 

A platform on the London Underground.

 

One of Rowling’s maternal great-grandfathers, Dugald Campbell, was a Scottish man from Lamlash.

 

Her mother’s French paternal grandfather, Louis Volant, was awarded the War Cross for exceptional bravery in defending the village of Courcelles-le-Comte during World War I.

Rowling originally believed Volant had won the Legion of Honour during the war, as she said when she received it herself in 2009.

She later discovered the truth when featured in an episode of the UK genealogy series Who Do You Think You Are? in which she found out it was a different Louis Volant who won the Legion of Honour.

When she heard her grandfather’s story of bravery and discovered that the War Cross was for “ordinary” soldiers like her grandfather, who had been a waiter, she stated the War Cross was “better” to her than the Legion of Honour.

 

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Rowling’s sister Dianne was born at their home when Rowling was 23 months old.

The family moved to the nearby village Winterbourne when Rowling was four.

As a child, Rowling often wrote fantasy stories which she frequently read to her sister.

 

Above: Duck pond, Winterbourne, Gloucestershire

 

Aged nine, Rowling moved to Church Cottage in the Gloucestershire village of Tutshill, close to Chepstow, Wales.

 

Above: Church Cottage, Tutshill, Gloucestershire

 

When she was a young teenager, her great-aunt gave her a copy of Jessica Mitford’s autobiography, Hons and Rebels.

Mitford became Rowling’s heroine and Rowling read all of her books.

 

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Rowling has said that her teenage years were unhappy.

Her home life was complicated by her mother’s diagnosis with multiple sclerosis and a strained relationship with her father, with whom she is not on speaking terms.

Rowling later said that she based the character of Hermione Granger on herself when she was eleven.

 

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Above: Emma Watson as Hermione Granger, poster for Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix

 

Sean Harris, her best friend in the Upper Sixth, owned a turquoise Ford Anglia which she says inspired a flying version that appeared in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets.

 

Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets.jpg

 

Like many teenagers, she became interested in rock music, listening to the Clash, the Smiths and Siouxsie Sioux, adopting the look of the latter with back-combed hair and black eyeliner, a look that she would still sport when beginning university.

 

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Above: Siouxsie Sioux, 1980

 

As a child, Rowling attended St Michael’s Primary School, a school founded by abolitionist William Wilberforce and education reformer Hannah More.

Her headmaster at St Michael’s, Alfred Dunn, has been suggested as the inspiration for the Harry Potter headmaster Albus Dumbledore.

 

Above: Richard Harris (1930 – 2002) as Albus Dumbledore in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone and Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets

 

She attended secondary school at Wyedean School and College, where her mother worked in the science department.

Steve Eddy, her first secondary school English teacher, remembers her as “not exceptional” but “one of a group of girls who were bright, and quite good at English“.

Rowling took A-levels in English, French and German, achieving two As and a B, and was Head Girl.

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Above: Logo of Wyeburn School, Sedbury, Gloucestershire

 

In 1982, Rowling took the entrance exams for Oxford University but was not accepted and earned a BA in French and Classics at the University of Exeter.

Martin Sorrell, a French professor at Exeter, remembers “a quietly competent student, with a denim jacket and dark hair, who, in academic terms, gave the appearance of doing what was necessary“.

Rowling recalls doing little work, preferring to read Dickens and Tolkien.

After a year of study in Paris, Rowling graduated from Exeter in 1986.

In 1988, Rowling wrote a short essay about her time studying Classics titled “What was the Name of that Nymph Again? or Greek and Roman Studies Recalled“.

It was published by the University of Exeter’s journal Pegasus.

 

 

 

 

After working as a researcher and bilingual secretary in London for Amnesty International, Rowling moved with her then boyfriend to Manchester, where she worked at the Chamber of Commerce.

 

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In 1990, while she was on a four-hour-delayed train trip from Manchester to London, the idea for a story of a young boy attending a school of wizardry “came fully formed” into her mind.

When she had reached her Clapham Junction flat, she began to write immediately.

 

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Above: Clapham Junction Railway Station

 

In December, Rowling’s mother, Anne, died after ten years suffering from multiple sclerosis.

Rowling was writing Harry Potter at the time and had never told her mother about it.

Her mother’s death heavily affected Rowling’s writing and she channelled her own feelings of loss by writing about Harry’s own feelings of loss in greater detail in the first book.

 

An advertisement in The Guardian led Rowling to move to Porto, Portugal, to teach English as a foreign language.

JK Rowling moved to Porto in 1991.

 

A panned out image of city buildings.

Above: Porto

 

This was a difficult time in her life, as her mother had recently passed away after a long battle with multiple sclerosis.

And to rub salt in the wound, her house in Manchester had been burgled, and everything her mother had left her was stolen.

 

Eager for a change of scenery, she accepted a job teaching English as a second language in Porto at a private language school on Avenida de Fernão de Magalhães called Encounter English.

 

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Rowling spent her evenings teaching English to young teenagers, business people and housewives and spent her days working on the manuscript of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.

 

The time Rowling spent in Portugal was in many ways a dark and painful period of her life, and one that she rarely talks about.

For this reason, it’s hard to know for sure exactly which elements of the Harry Potter saga were inspired by her experiences in Porto.

Nevertheless, the influence is clearly there.

 

Many people have speculated that Rowling took inspiration from certain Porto landmarks, shops and cafés.

Some of these supposed inspiration locations almost certainly did inspire her, while others require a stretch of the imagination.

Rowling may have been subconsciously influenced by them, even if she didn’t recognize it at the time.

She taught English-as-a-foreign language at the Encounter English School at night and began writing in the day while listening to Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto.

 

Above: Pyotr Tchaikovsky (1840 – 1893)

 

After 18 months in Porto, she met Portuguese journalist Jorge Arantes at a café and found they shared an interest in Jane Austen.

Arantes would later tell London’s Daily Express newspaper the story of his whirlwind romance and doomed marriage to the then-unknown Joanne Rowling.

 

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Above: Jorge Arrantes

 

It was a sexually passionate relationship that ended in violence and bitterness.

She was a 25-year-old teacher, he was a 23-year-old journalism student.

He spotted her drinking with some friends in a café, was drawn to her piercing, aquamarine eyes and tried to pick her up.

Immediately there was a connection between us.“, Arrantes said.

Joanne could not speak any Portuguese, but my English was good.

We both realized we had a great deal in common with our love of books.

I remember her saying she was re-reading Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility, which I had also read.

 

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Arrantes said she told him about an affair she had had with another Portuguese man and about a love affair with a man in England.

When the night ended, they exchanged telephone numbers – and a kiss.

 

Two days later, he said, they had their first date – and ended up in bed.

Before we knew what was happening, she was back at my flat and we spent the night together.

There was nothing sordid about it.

We were simply two young, independent people enjoying life.

After that night, Joanne and I saw each other two or three times a week.

It was an intense and passionate relationship.

 

It was also tempestous.

Their frenetic lovemaking was punctuated with furious arguments.

We were always either in Heaven or in Hell.

 

They moved into his mother’s apartment, a shabby two-bedroom flat with a tiny kitchen, on Rua do Duque de Saldanha.

 

Casa onde morou depois de ter casado com Jorge Arantes. Foi lá que Jessica, a filha de ambos, viveu os primeiros meses de vida e foi de lá que Rowling foi expulsa numa madrugada de Novembro de 1993

Above: Entry to Arantes flat, Rua do Duque de Saldanha, Porto

 

Arantes later claimed he had helped her come up with ideas for the Harry Potter novels, though she denies this.

Among the belongings she brought to their home, according to Arantes, was a well-thumbed copy of J.R.R. Tolkien’s classic The Lord of the Rings.

 

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Several months later, Joanne discovered she was pregnant.

It was unplanned and both were afraid of the responsibilities parenthood might bring.

 

According to Arantes, Rowling began writing her first Harry Potter book during this pregnancy.

She kept her writing secret for a time, then showed her work in progress to Arantes.

I am proud to say that I was the first person to read about Harry Potter.

It was obvious to me straight away that this was the work of a genius.

I can still remember telling Joanne:

‘Whoa! I am in love with a great, great writer.’

Even in those days, Joanne had a great talent for structure.

I never doubted it would be a success.

 

Arantes says they discussed the stories, which Rowling found helpful.

We studied each other’s work and made suggestions.

When I told Joanne to change something, she would usually make an alteration.

He claims she had planned the full series of seven books, because  she believed the number 7 has magical associations.

 

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But just as they had begun to look forward to the birth of their child, tragedy struck.

Joanne miscarried.

 

They married on 16 October 1992 and their child, Jessica Isabel Rowling Arantes (named after Jessica Mitford), was born on 27 July 1993 in Portugal.

 

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Above: Joanne and Jorge Arantes with baby Jessica

 

Two months after Jessica’s birth, Arantes admits, he ordered Joanne out of their apartment.

She refused to go without Jessica and, despite my saying she could come back for her in the morning, there was a violent struggle.

I had to drag her out of the house at 5 in the morning and I admit I slapped her very hard in the street.

 

The couple separated on 17 November 1993.

Biographers have suggested that Rowling suffered domestic abuse during her marriage, although the extent is unknown.

 

In December 1993, Rowling and her then infant daughter moved to Edinburgh, Scotland, to be near Rowling’s sister with three chapters of what would become Harry Potter in her suitcase.

Seven years after graduating from university, Rowling saw herself as a failure.

Her marriage had failed and she was jobless with a dependent child, but she described her failure as liberating and allowing her to focus on writing.

During this period, Rowling was diagnosed with clinical depression and contemplated suicide.

Her illness inspired the characters known as Dementors, soul-sucking creatures introduced in the third book.

 

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Rowling signed up for welfare benefits, describing her economic status as being “poor as it is possible to be in modern Britain without being homeless.”

 

Rowling was left in despair after her estranged husband arrived in Scotland, seeking both her and her daughter.

She obtained an Order of Restraint and Arantes returned to Portugal, with Rowling filing for divorce in August 1994.

 

She began a teacher training course in August 1995 at the Moray House School of Education, at Edinburgh University, after completing her first novel while living on state benefits.

She wrote in many cafés, especially Nicolson’s Café (owned by her brother-in-law) and the Elephant House, wherever she could get Jessica to fall asleep.

 

 

Meanwhile Arantes’ life was falling apart.

He lost his job as a television journalist and descended into a nightmare of drug addiction.

 

His 70-year-old mother, Marilia Rodrigues, told the London Daily Mail that Arantes stole family heirlooms and jewellery to feed his drug habit.

He still loved her very much and was heartbroken when they parted.“, Rodrigues said.

He still believes they could get together again and he would take her back at the drop of a hat.

He just wants her and his daughter.

 

Arantes says he has recovered from his drug addiction and lives in a small apartment in the Paris suburb of Clichy with his brother Justino, a travel agent.

 

Rowling rarely talks about her first marriage, but once told the Times of London:

I married on 16 October 1992.

I left on 17 November 1993.

So that was the duration of what I considered to be the marriage.

Obviously, you do not leave a marriage after that very short period of time unless there are serious problems.

I’m not the kind of person who bales out without there being serious problems.

My relationship before that lasted seven years.

I’m a long-term girl.

And I had a baby with this man.

But it didn’t work.

And it was clear to me that it was time to go, and so I went.

I never regretted it.

 

In a 2001 BBC interview, Rowling denied the rumour that she wrote in local cafés to escape from her unheated flat, pointing out that it had heating.

One of the reasons she wrote in cafés was that taking her baby out for a walk was the best way to make her fall asleep.

 

In 1995, Rowling finished her manuscript for Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone which was typed on an old manual typewriter.

Upon the enthusiastic response of Bryony Evens, a reader who had been asked to review the book’s first three chapters, the Fulham-based Christopher Little Literary Agency agreed to represent Rowling in her quest for a publisher.

The book was submitted to twelve publishing houses, all of which rejected the manuscript.

A year later she was finally given the green light by editor Barry Cunningham from Bloomsbury, a publishing house in London.

The decision to publish Rowling’s book owes much to Alice Newton, the eight-year-old daughter of Bloomsbury’s chairman, who was given the first chapter to review by her father and immediately demanded the next.

Although Bloomsbury agreed to publish the book, Cunningham says that he advised Rowling to get a day job, since she had little chance of making money in children’s books.

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Harry Potter is now a global brand worth an estimated US$15 billion and the last four Harry Potter books have consecutively set records as the fastest-selling books in history.

The series, totalling 4,195 pages, has been translated, in whole or in part, into 65 languages.

The Harry Potter books have also gained recognition for sparking an interest in reading among the young at a time when children were thought to be abandoning books for computers and television, although it is reported that despite the huge uptake of the books, adolescent reading has continued to decline.

 

On 26 December 2001, Rowling married Neil Murray (born 1971), a Scottish doctor, in a private ceremony at her home, Killiechassie House in Scotland.

Their son, David Gordon Rowling Murray, was born on 24 March 2003.

 

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Above: Joanne and Neil Murray

 

Shortly after Rowling began writing Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, she ceased working on the novel to care for David in his early infancy.

Rowling’s youngest child, daughter Mackenzie Jean Rowling Murray, to whom she dedicated Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, was born on 23 January 2005.

 

 

 

Regarding Jessica’s career, she can best be described as an Instagram model who posts beautiful photos of herself as well as videos with her family and friends.

Jessica started her Instagram account in 2013 and instantly started sharing photos.

She has now managed to gather almost 7,000 followers.

Apart from that, Jessica owns a clothing line called Jc.closefit.

She also loves travelling and taking photos while on her exotic tours.

 

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Above: Jessica Arantes

 

Rowling’s life in Portugal clearly influenced aspects of the books:

 

Many of Potter’s spells can be easily understood by Portuguese speakers:

  • aguamenti (bring out water)
  • duro (make things hard)
  • protego (protect people)
  • silencio (to silence people)

 

One of Hogwart’s founding professors was Salazar Slytherin.

Dr. António de Oliveira Salazar was Portugal’s notorious dictator for much of the 20th century.

 

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Above: António de Oliveira Salazar (1889 – 1970)

 

There are also many similarities between Porto’s most colourful buildings and elements of Hogwarts, and as my wife (Ute) and I explored the city of Porto, I found myself trying to imagine Joanne Rowling’s life pre-Harry Potter fame and fortune.

I also found myself marvelling at her choice of a dictator’s name for one of the school’s founders.

Was her deciding to take the name of Salazar suggesting that despite his  nature he was partially responsible for making the place possible?

Without a Salazar could it have become what it eventually became?

Rowling’s relationship with Arantes did not end well though their union resulted in Jessica’s birth.

Perhaps Arantes was Rowling’s Salazar?

Perhaps the rumours of domestic violence are true, but perhaps Arantes’s claims of inspiring Rowling’s ideas are also credible.

What would Porto, through a Rowling lens, tell me about writing and inspiration?

What would it tell me about myself?

 

From the top left corner clockwise: Clérigos Church and Tower; Avenida dos Aliados; Casa da Música concert hall; Ribeira district; Avenida da Boavista business hub; Luiz I bridge and Porto from Vila Nova de Gaia

Above: Images of Porto

 

Porto, Portugal, Thursday 26 July 2018

There are a number of sites in Porto frequently mentioned on Potterhead blogs that my mentioning will surprise no one.

The only difference I can offer is my perspective of them.

I shall briefly list them here and then offer my perspective:

  • Livraria Lello
  • Escovaria de Belomonte
  • Universidade do Porto
  • Café Majestic
  • Fonte dos Leones
  • Torre dos Clerigos

 

The Livraria Lello, Porto’s famous galleried Art Nouveau bookshop, with its neo-Gothic exterior and inner staircase just begging for a grand entrance, is a visual delight beyond words.

It was founded by the well-to-do Lello intellectual brothers in 1906 and specialized in limited edition books – many of which are still here.

The brothers now appear as bas-reliefs on the walls, alongside busts of great writers, including Eca de Queiroz and Miguel Cervantes.

The Lellos commissioned an engineer and fellow bibliophile Francisco Xavier Esteves to design the interior, which is simply stunning.

The ground level even has rails set into the floor for transporting book “carriages“.

 

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The impressive double, freestanding staircase (actually made of concrete) lures people upstairs where you can admire the extraordinary plasterwork ceiling, which resembles ornately carved wood.

Columns and a stained glass roof light add to the air of something far grander than a bookshop, the whole design having an almost organic feel, as if the walls and ceiling are the ribs and bones of a living creature.

 

 

The first floor was the traditional meeting point of artists and intellectuals and was frequented by Rowling during her time in Porto in the 1990s.

It is this, and the similiarity of the shop’s decor to some of Hogwarts’ more outlandish design characteristics, that has put the bookshop firmly on the tourist circuit, with up to 4,000 people visiting daily.

There are often queues to get in, but if you come first thing in the morning or in the evening shortly before closing time, you may be able to experience the place more as a bookshop than a tourist site.

 

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Porto’s famous galleried Art Nouveau shop has become a tourist site in its own right, but behind the crowds this still remains one of the city’s best bookshops.

There’s general fiction on the ground floor (including the Harry Potter stories in many languages), much of it in English, with reference and non-fiction (including travel) on the upper floor.

 

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You can also find rare editions of Portuguese books.

 

Look out for the original till, made in 1881, the first in Portugal to issue paper receipts and with prices in reis (the currency before the escudo and the euro).

 

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You get your €5.00 entry fee back on any purchase.

 

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In 1869, the Livraria Internacional de Ernesto Chardron was founded, from a shop on Rua dos Clérigos by the Frenchman Ernesto Chardron.

Following its founder’s death, at the age of 45, the firm was sold to Lugan & Genelioux Sucessores.

Alternately, in 1881, José Lello along with his brother-in-law created the firm David Pereira & Lello.

But, the following year, after the death of David Lourenço Pereira, the establishment began to be operated as José Pinto de Sousa Lello & Irmão, when he partnered with his younger brother (António Lello).

The brothers both became prominent members of Porto’s intellectual bourgeoisie by the turn of the century.

The brothers hired engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves (1864-1944) to construct the new bookstore on Rua das Carmelitas.

In 1906, the Livraria Lello was inaugurated.

By 1919, the bookstore was simply designated as the Lello & Irmão, Lda.

With the 1930 addition of José Pereira da Costa, the bookstore began to be known simply as Livraria Lello.

But, between 1930 and 1940, it once again became designated Lello & Irmão.

Beginning in July 2015, the bookstore began requesting entrance fees for visitors.

On 21 April 2016, an artistic mural was erected to conceal the scaffolding placed on the facade of the building, during its restoration, by graffiti writer Dheo and colleague Pariz One.

 

 

Dheo painted the central area of the mural with a pile of old books, a lit candle and a bottle of Port wine, while the rest was painted by Pariz One with geometric shapes, referring to the stained glass inside the bookstore.

The work took two months to produce.

On 31 July, following the restoration, the main facade of the building was uncovered, showing the laboratory-tested recovered primitive gray.

 

 

There is no denying that the woodwork and the glass art and the red winding staircase do make the Livraria Lello a beautiful place to visit and certainly there is a good case to argue that Hogwarts’ moving staircases and the interior of the Diagon Alley bookstore Flourish and Blogs were inspired by the Livraria.

 

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Above: Hogwarts’ moving staircases

 

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But therein lies the problem.

It attracts too many tourists and it knows it.

 

As a passionate bibliophile I certainly admire the architecture, but for me a bookshop should in some ways resemble a library, a sanctuary of literature, a temple of tomes, rather than a marketplace for mobs.

A person cannot linger in any one spot too long before some impatient patron will jostle and push you about the place.

One could make a grand entrance if the store were a little less crowded, but one loses one’s regal bearing very quickly after enduring long queues to get in, for the indignity of paying an entrance fee just to view the shop, down each and every aisle, up and down the staircase, and at the cash register….

This is not the place for those who dislike crowds in enclosed spaces.

And though the Livraria does offer rare Portuguese books I am not so certain the Lello brothers would have liked the changes that time and fame have wrought, for as wonderful as it is to see people eagerly seeking books to read in this awkward age of automation and animation, a sense of intellectualism no longer pervades this establishment.

The place feels like a souvenir shop at one of Walt Disney’s magic kingdoms of artificiality than it does a sacred reminder of Portugal’s literary past.

 

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Above: Disney World, Orlando, Florida

 

I doubt the American tourists who came to or left the Livraria had any conception of, or compassion for, the existence of a Portuguese literary history.

For the place is populated with Potterheads and nothing else seems to matter.

But suggesting such sacrilege to these Rowling fanatics is akin to being Cervantes’ Don Quixote tilting at thick stone windmills.

 

 

Pointlessly defending an honour long gone.

 

The Livrario made me think of St. Gallen’s Stiftbibliothek (Abbey Library) with its hefty admission fee and cramped interior when crowds congregate.

It is my hope that Rowling (or those of her ilk) never visit the Abbey Library and over-popularize the place with their writing, for the Library at least still maintains an aura of the sacred which the Livrario has long ago lost.

 

Above: The Abbey Library of St. Gallen

 

I was seeking a Porto version of Paris’ Shakespeare & Co., but got instead an amusement park souvenir shop.

 

Shakespeare and Company bookstore, Paris 13 August 2013.jpg

 

It was worth a visit for the heart but at a cost to the mind and soul.

 

The Escovaria de Belomonte (Brushes of Belomonte), founded by Antonio da Silva on 29 January 1927, is not, at present, part of guidebook description, but it is most definitively part of Potter lore and appears on every blog where Rowling and Porto are mentioned in the same breath.

Though the Escovaria de Belomonte has only existed for 82 years, they excel in the manufacture and restoration of industrial brushes.

Why buy new brushes when you can have your old ones renewed?

The Escovaria de Belomonte replenishes and renews any type of brush.

They create brushes for every kind of customized applications for all types of industries, including industrial factories, textile production, footwear producers, jewelry stores, cast moulding manufacturers, grinding establishments, water treatment plants, car washes, typographical firms, gastronomy, and the list goes on….

They make any and every kind of brush and broom.

Whatever your needs, Escovaria de Belomonte will help you find a solution.

 

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The handsome Belomonte brooms with their rustic luxurious look, many of them hanging from the store ceiling, handmade with high-quality wood and natural fibres, bear a striking resemblance to Harry Potter’s flying broom, the Nimbus 2000.

 

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It has also been suggested that the name of Harry Potter that graces the front cover of every Potter novel bears a striking resemblance to the lettering and design of Escovaria de Belomonte‘s street sign.

Visually it is a great store to visit, but I wonder whether Potterheads actually make a purchase here.

There is no entrance fee and I am certain the place is much photographed by Potterheads, but whether the Escovaria is pleased with being a tourist attraction more than a serious business establishment is debatable.

 

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It has been suggested by Potterhead blogs that the outfit worn by Universidade do Porto (University of Porto) students was the inspiration for the outfits that Hogwarts students were required to wear during academic hours.

The wife and I were not able to fit in a visit to the University, saw no one on the streets dressed in such attire and found very few photos of students dressed in this manner.

 

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What can be said about the University:

  • Founded on 22 March 1911, it is the 2nd largest Portuguese university by enrolled students (after the University of Lisbon) and has one of the most noted research outputs in Portugal.
  • It is ranked among the best Portuguese universities, is among the 100 universities in Europe and ranked 328th of the best 400 universities in the world.
  • Today, about 28,000 students (11,000 postgraduates) attend the programmes and courses provided by the University of Porto’s 15 schools (13 faculties, a biomedical sciences institute and a business school) each with a considerable degree of autonomy.
  • It offers 63 graduate degree courses, over 160 master courses and several doctoral degree courses and other specialization courses, supported by 2,300 lecturers and a technical and administrative staff of over 1,600 people.
  • Of those who can call themselves alumni or staff of the University are:
    • Richard Zimler (journalist / writer / professor)
    • Julio Dinis (1839 – 1871)(writer)
    • Jorge de Sena (1919 – 1978)(doctor / writer)
    • José Neves (billionaire businessman / founder of Farfetch)
    • Marisa Ferreira (artist)
    • Camilo Castelo Bianco (1825 – 1890)(writer)
    • Agostinho da Silva (1906 – 1994)(writer)

(This last mentioned I find inspirational:

What you need, above all, is to not remember what I said. 

Never think for me. 

Think always for yourself. 

Be sure that all your mistakes that you commit are, according to your own thinking and deciding, all more valuable than all your correct actions made according to my thinking, not yours.

If the Creator wanted to put us together we perhaps couldn’t have two different bodies and two different heads.

My counselling should serve you to confront it.

It is possible that, after this confrontation, you come to think like me, but, at this time, your thought is yours.

My disciples, if I have any, are the ones who oppose me, because in their deep soul they guard what truly animates and what I most want to transmit to them.

The wish is to not conform.“)

 

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Above: Agostinho da Silva

 

It is more likely that Rowling was inspired not by the University of Porto, but rather by the University of Coimbra – 1.5 hours south of Porto – whose students do indeed wear academic robes similiar to those of Hogwarts students.

We did not get to Coimbra.

We did not need to.

 

Above: University of Coimbra students in ceremonial robes

 

There are hundreds of places to eat and drink in Porto, from old town tascas and Art Nouveau cafés to riverfront designer restaurants.

Of these, the one place that attracts the Potterhead is the Café Majestic.

In 1916, Rua de Santa Catarina 12 was built on a paved shopping street.

Opened in 1921, the Café Elite was designed in Art Nouveau style.

The then Bohemian quarter of the city did not think the name “Elite” was appropriate as it was not part of the Zeitgeist that was the post-1910 revolutionary Portuguese Republic.

The coffee house was subsequently given the name it is still known by.

The Majestic became over time a place frequented by intellectuals and literary legends, including Gago Coutinho, Beatriz Costa, Júlio Resende, José Régio and Teixeira de Pascoaes.

 

 

(Carlos Viegas Gago Coutinho, generally known simply as Gago Coutinho (1869 – 1959) was a Portuguese geographer, cartographer, naval officer, historian and aviator.

An aviation pioneer, Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral were the first to cross the South Atlantic Ocean by air, from March to June 1922, from Lisbon, Portugal, to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.)

 

Above: Coutinho (right) and Cabral (left) on the Lusitánia

 

(Beatriz Costa (born Beatriz da Conceição; 1907 – 1996) was a Portuguese actress, the best-known actress of the golden age of Portuguese cinema.)

 

Fotografia de Beatriz Costa, com dedicatória a António Cruz Caldas (Porto, 1934).png

Above: Beatriz Costa

 

(Júlio Resende is a Portuguese pianist and composer.

He is active as a jazz musician (both as a bandleader and as a sideman for other artists) and is also involved in the Fado scene, having recorded a solo piano tribute to Amália Rodrigues and collaborating with singers like António Zambujo, Ana Moura and Aldina Duarte.

He is also the leader of Alexander Search, a rock band fronted by Eurovision Song Contest 2017 winner Salvador Sobral and inspired by Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa.)

 

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(José Maria dos Reis Pereira, better known by the pen name José Régio (1901 – 1969), was a Portuguese writer.

José Régio was the author of novels, plays, poetry and essays.

His works are strongly focused on the theme of conflict between man and God and between the individual and society, a critical analysis of solitude and human relations.)

 

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Above: José Régio

 

(Joaquim Pereira Teixeira de Vasconcelos (1877 – 1952), better known by his pen name Teixeira de Pascoaes, was a Portuguese poet.

He was nominated five times for the Nobel Prize in Literature.)

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Above: Painting of Teixeira de Pascoaes

 

In the 1960s, the Café experienced a decline, parallel to the increasingly repressive social situation of Portugal under the authoritarian regime of António de Oliveria Salazar’s Estado Novo (“New State“).

In 1992 the Barrias family decided to extensively restore the Majestic.

Using old photographs as their guide, the restoration was completed, a new floor laid and the Café reopened in 1994.

In the year prior to the commencement of the Majestic’s renovations, Rowling often visited the Café, writing her thoughts for her first Harry Potter novel on Majestic napkins.

The Majestic today is the best known of Porto’s belle époque cafés, with a perfectly preserved decor of celestial cherubs, bevelled mirrors, carved chairs and wood panelling.

 

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Waiters float to the strains of The Blue Danube.

Come for coffee or afternoon tea as we did.

 

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The Fountain of the Lions (Portuguese: Fonte dos Leões), is a 19th-century fountain built by French company Compagnie Générale des Eaux pour l’Etranger.

 

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Cast by the Val d’Osne foundry in France, it is a copy, in most part, of the fountain in the Town Hall Square of Leicester, England.

The fountain is located in an urban, isolated location, within the gardened Praça de Gomes Teixeira.

The central fountain has a cruciform layout with a group of sculptures at the base supported by four seated lions on the extremes.

Between each lion, the axis of the source has a column with base, shaft and capital.

To top, two central, circular cups superimposed and staggered, with a pine cone surmounting all.

The octagonal shaped granite tank has rounded edges.

The outer profile of the tank walls is corrugated.

The edge of the lower plane bowl is outlined in relief by a frieze with plant elements interrupted only by four cornets from which water flows.

 

 

It is thought by Potterheads that this fountain inspired Rowling’s choice of logo for the House of Gryffindor at Hogwarts.

 

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The Clérigos Church (Portuguese: Igreja dos Clérigos,”Church of the Clergymen“) is a Baroque church with its tall bell tower, the Torre dos Clérigos, seen from various points of the city and is one of Porto’s most characteristic symbols.

 

Torre de los Clérigos, Oporto, Portugal, 2012-05-09, DD 01.JPG

 

The main façade of the church is heavily decorated with baroque motifs (such as garlands and shells) and an indented broken pediment.

This was based on an early 17th-century Roman scheme.

The central frieze above the windows present symbols of worship and an incense boat.

The lateral façades reveal the almost elliptic floorplan of the church nave.

The Clérigos Church was one of the first baroque churches in Portugal to adopt a typical baroque elliptic floor plan.

 

 

The monumental tower of the church, located at the back of the building, was only built between 1754 and 1763.

The baroque decoration here also shows influence from the Roman Baroque, while the whole design was inspired by Tuscan campaniles.

The tower is 75.6 metres high, dominating the city.

There are 240 steps to be climbed to reach the top of its six floors.

This great structure has become the symbol of the city.

 

 

Did the Torre dos Clerigos inspire Hogwarts’ Astronomy Tower?

Potterheads like to think so.

 

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At all of these sites, especially atop the Torre dos Clerigos, the visitor, headphones on, fado playing, can ponder how fado, Arantes, Rowling and yours truly all interconnect.

We have learned that Arantes probably abused Rowling as possibly did her father.

Fans who re-read Harry Potter as adults quickly realize that the behaviour of the Dursleys reads like child abuse: starvation, forced labour and confinement.

 

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Starvation has been a stranger to me, but forced labour and confinement I did know.

 

In the Harry Potter series, more explicit abuse is described when Harry learns through a Pensieve memory that Severus Snape’s father beat his son and wife.

Porto is a Pensieve for me….

 

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And then there is Rowling’s post-Potter writing….

 

In her novel The Casual Vacancy, Andrew is a restless teen who lives with his abusive, degrading father.

Rowling once told The New Yorker that Andrew represented her mindset as a teen, and although Andrew was not exactly based on her father, she said:

I did not have an easy relationship with my father.

 

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Above: Andrew Price, The Casual Vacancy

 

Abuse also finds its way into Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them.

Credence has an adopted mother who hits him with a belt.

That resentment from his mother’s frequent beatings turns him into an Obscurial, a repressed being that the evil Gellert Grindelwald wants to use for dark magic.

 

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Often, but certainly not always, children who were abused by their parents often abuse their children when they become parents.

Perhaps this was the case in the behaviour of Arantes.

 

And, lest we forget, why Rowling chose António de Oliveira Salazar as the inspiration for the repressive Hogwarts co-founder Salazar Slitherin….

One overriding criticism of Salazar’s regime is that stability was bought and maintained at the expense of suppression of human rights and liberties.

Abuse on a national level.

Under Salazar’s authoritarian rule, he brought stability and prosperity to Portugal, but at enormous cost: censorship, imprisonment and torture.

 

Above: Salazar, 1939

 

Arantes was born in 1967.

Salazar’s Estado Nova lasted from 1932 to 1974.

Arantes’ father knew abuse and repression and so would Arantes.

 

It is hard to sympathize with those that abuse unless we realize that they were probably a product of abuse themselves.

Arantes lost the mother of his child and his daughter as well.

In the quiet of night as Arantes lies in his solitary bed in his brother’s Clichy apartment fado music plays inside his head.

Arantes is a pessimist, a nihilist, alone, and forever known for his greatest failure:

Losing the world’s most famous novelist as his lover and the child they made together.

 

We quietly walk through the wonders of Porto.

Fado fills the streets.

Sadness of memory fills my soul.

And sits upon my shoulders like an invisibility cloak.

 

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Above: Porto, night

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Pocket Rough Guide Porto / Lonely Planet Portugal / Rough Guide Portugal / Matthew Hancock, Xenophobe’s Guide to the Portuguese / A.H. de Oliveira Marques, A Very Short History of Portugal

 

A poster depicting a young boy with glasses, an old man with glasses, a young girl holding books, a redheaded boy, and a large bearded man in front of a castle, with an owl flying. The left poster also features an adult man, an old woman, and a train, with the titles being "Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone".

 

 

 

 

 

 

Canada Slim and the Italian Twilight

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 23 July 2019

There are advantages and disadvantages to everything.

 

In less than a fortnight I shall board a train to Romanshorn, followed by a ferry across the Lake of Constance (Bodensee) to Friedrichshafen then a train to Lindau, another to Kaufbeuren, another to Füssen and finally a bus to Schwangau to join my wife for a long weekend break.

 

Skyline of Schwangau

Above: Schwangau

 

This entails taking the second earliest departing train at 05:55 from our local station and a journey of five and a half hours to be reunited with the wife on holiday for her birthday at a spa resort in the Allgäu region of Bavaria.

I do not enjoy spas, wellness centres, health farms, but I do enjoy my wife’s companionship.

 

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The things we do for love.

 

It is this romantic compulsion, this sweet surrender of one’s will for the beautiful harmony found with another person that makes me recall some compromises I have made for my better half on some journeys we have made together.

Unlike my wife whose ambition is fixed once she has determined to do something, I rarely kick when her female perogative decides that what I planned will now not happen.

I have wanted to climb the Tour Eiffel in Paris, drive to Roscommon in Ireland, and stop more often en route from Freiburg im Breisgau to Bretagne, but her jaw was set, her foot was put down, her nerve defiant.

Ultimately life somehow went on without the tower ascent, the Irish detour or the frequent French stops, but my childish petulence of wishes denied is still remembered.

Such pettiness a husband can harbour!

 

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There was another such moment last year on our northern Italian vacation….

 

Highway 45 between Gardone Riviera and Limone sul Garda, 6 August 2018

Barely 3 km east of Gardone, the road passes through the twin comune of Toscolano-Maderno, which straddles the delta of the Toscolano River.

Toscolano is predominantly an industrial centre while Maderno is exclusively a tourist centre, stretching in a picturesque gulf with a wonderful promenade among villas and gardens and a decent beach.

 

Above: Toscolano – Maderno

 

According to a legend, the ancient, mysterious town of Benaco, sunk into Lake Garda owing to an earthquake in 243, was built near Toscolano.

A memorial tablet on the bell tower of Chiesa San Andrea (St. Andrew’s Church) in Maderno bears a dedication of the Benacensi to Marcus Aurelius.

 

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The Orto Botanico “G.E. Ghirardi” is a botanical garden operated by the University of Milan, and located on via Religione, Toscolano-Maderno.

The garden was established in 1964 as the Stazione Agricola Sperimentale Mimosa under the direction of Professor Giordano Emilio Ghirardi.

In 1991 it became part of the University of Milan, and today primarily cultivates plants of interest for medicine and pharmaceutics, but also supports research in transgenic plants, rice, etc.

Collections include Camptotheca acuminata, Eschscholzia, Nicotiana, Nigella, Scutellaria, and Solanaceae.

 

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A car ferry crosses from here to Torri del Benaco on the eastern shore of Lake Garda.

 

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The valley behind the comune has a tradition of paper-making dating from the 4th century.

Following the riverside road up into this beautiful, wooded valley brings the traveller past many disused paper mills to the Fondazione Valle delle Cartierie, with a well-presented museum offering an insight into the processes and importance of the industry.

 

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Toscolano-Maderno is a Shangri-la for shady walks or sumptious picnics, but this day we have no time for a stroll nor food in the car for a sit-down meal.

We are on the way to Riva del Garda, our next night’s stop, the weather is sweltering and all we dream about is the AC promised at the Hotel ahead.

We left this morning after two nights in Sirmione, spent much of the day exploring Gardone Riviera and still had some distance to travel.

I was complacent, quiet and uncomplaining.

 

 

We arrived at Gargnano, said to be the prettiest village on Lake Garda.

Traffic ran above and inland from the town, leaving old Gargnano mostly noise-free.

The narrow difficult road north of town means tour buses don’t bother trying to reach Gargnano.

It is more workman’s base than tourist resort.

 

Skyline of Gargnano

Above: Gargnano

 

Nonetheless Gargnano has a few claims to fame:

 

The naval operations on Lake Garda in 1866 during the Third Italian War of Independence (20 June – 12 August 1866) consisted of a series of clashes between flotillas of the Kingdom of Italy and the Austrian Empire between 25 June and 25 July that year, as they attempted to secure dominance of the lake.

The Austrian fleet, based on the eastern bank of the lake, was larger, more modern and better-armed than their Italian counterpart, and successfully maintained control of the waters, hindering the movement of Italian troops.

 

Above: The Austrian Steamer Hess

 

At the outset of the war, the border between Austria and Italy ran down the middle of the lake.

The Brescia region to the west lay within Italy while Verona and the lands east of the lake were Austrian.

 

 

Austria controlled Riva del Garda at the northern tip of the lake, as well as the important fortress of Peschiera del Garda on the west bank of the River Mincio at its southern end.

Peschiera was part of the so-called ‘Quadrilateral‘ of strong core Austrian defences, leaving the exposed eastern shore of Lake Garda an area of potential weakness, vulnerable to Italian infiltration.

This might have involved a strike from the north end of the Lake up the valley of the Chiese River to threaten Trento and cut off the supply lines of the Austrian forces in the Veneto.

It might also have involved a landing of forces behind Peschiera to threaten Verona.

 

Above: Peschiera

 

On the Italian side, the buildup of Austrian naval strength caused concerns about a possible Austrian attack across the lake towards Brescia.

At the start of hostilities of 25 June, the Austrians immediately sailed out to threaten Salò and prevent any movement of Italian troops.

On 30 June, the Austrian ships bombarded the railway station at Desenzano, a supply and communications point for the Italian Volunteer Corps of Giuseppe Garibaldi, but caused only minor damage.

 

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Above: Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807 – 1882)

 

More substantial action took place on 2 July, at 5 am, when four Austrian gunboats, including the Hess and Franz Joseph, bombarded the centre of Gargnano, where there was a strong concentration of Garibaldi’s forces.

The bombardment caused extensive damage to homes, one dead and eight wounded among the defending volunteers of the 2nd Regiment.

 

 

The Austrian flotilla was eventually compelled to withdraw under fire from an Italian battery commanded by Captain Achille Afan de Rivera.

 

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Above: Captain Rivera (1842 – 1904)

 

Other skirmishes took place on the lake every few days.

On 6 July, Italian volunteers forces, equipped with nine long-range guns borrowed from a coastal battery at Maderno, ambushed the Austrian gunboat Wildfang at Gargagno.

The gunboat was hit twice, for no losses for Garibaldi’s army.

 

At the same time, the Italian flotilla sailed out from Salo to chase the armoured gunboat Wespe, on patrol off Maderno.

The Austrian vessel managed to disangage after receiving support from Speiteufel and Scharfschütze.

Italian sources claim that the Wespe was forced to seek shelter at Malcesine.

 

Skyline of Malcesine

Above: Malcesine

 

The next significant combat occurred on 19 July when the Italian paddle steamer Benaco head out from Salo for Gargnano towing the sailboat Poeta, both ships carrying reinforcement troops and loaded with supplies for the volunteers in the mountains of Valvestino and Tremosine.

The Benaco was suddenly attacked by two Austrian gunboats, the Wildfang and Schwarzschűtze, which forced it in to shore near Gargnano, where most of the crew, troops and supplies were landed during the night.

 

The next morning Austrian whalerboats were able to capture the abandoned Benaco, still with a small gun and some rifle ammunition in her holds, and tow it away as a prize to Peschiera.

One of the whalerboats capsized under Italian fire, but was eventually recovered by the Austrian flotilla.

Three Austrian sailors were wounded, while heavy shelling on Gargnano killed two Italian volunteers.

The Poeta managed to sail away, only to sink shortly after off San Carlo.

 

A second convoy from Salo, consisting in another sailboat escorted by the Italian flotilla, was forced back two days later by the Austrian gunboats Speiteufel, Uskoke and Wespe.

The Benaco was handed back to the Italian government at the end of the hostilities.

 

Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of the Kingdom of Italy (1861 – 1946)

 

The final action of the war took place at the north end of the Lake.

After skirmishes on the Lake on 24 July, Manfroni learned that the Austrian army had abandoned Riva del Garda, which was one of his key supply points.

To prevent the town falling to Garibaldi, he steamed north and occupied the fortifications in the town with his marines, and on 25 July his forces were able to hold off Garibaldi’s volunteers until nightfall.

 

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Above: Moritz Manfroni von Montfort (1832 – 1889)

 

At 10 p.m. the Hess arrived with a telegram confirming that a ceasefire had been declared between Austria and Italy.

 

Flag of Austria

Above: Flag of the Austrian (Habsburg) Empire (1804 – 1867)

 

Giovanni Beatrice known as Zanzanù (1576 – 1617) was an Italian bandit of the Republic of Venice .

He was one of the most heinous bandits of the Serenissima responsible, with his band, between 1602 and 1617, of about 200 murders, according to the testimony of the bandit and assassin Alessandro Remer of Malcesine , who was hired in 1609 by a group of merchants from Desenzano del Garda to exterminate the Zannoni band.

From the 22 sentences of bans pronounced by the Venetian magistrates against Beatrice, from 1605 to 1616, the murders clearly attributed to him did not reach 10 and those that were committed in the years 1605 – 1609 were against those who had killed his father.

This is the image that emerges from the judicial sources that testify both the numerous sentences imposed against him, and the activity of the ruthless bounty hunters aiming to obtain prizes and benefits offered by the Republic of Venice in exchange for his killing.

 

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Above: Giovanni Beatrice (aka Zanzanù)

 

In fact, a more accurate examination of the same sources allows us to outline the figure of a man who became an outlaw to defend his honor and that of his family.

A bandit who soon became legendary for the abuses and injustices that were committed against him.

The vicissitudes of the life of this man and the extreme complexity of the social relations within which they took place are emblematic of the transformations that affected Europe, determining the figure of the traditional bandit and of the conflicting dynamics that animated it, in that the outlaw was considered a dangerous enemy of social tranquility.

 

Giovanni Beatrice (or Beatrici), nicknamed by the locals “Zanzanù” or “Zuan Zanone” (Giovanni Zanone), was born in Gargnano in 1576, to Giovanni Maria Beatrice of the “Zanon” family and his wife, Anastasia.

His wife Caterina had numerous children: Anastasia born in 1598, Margherita in 1599, Pietro Antonio in 1601, Anastasia in 1602, Elisabetta Antonia in 1604, Giovan Maria in 1608.

 

He acted with a band of accomplices, known as the “degli Zannoni“, and a dense network of connivances, even high positions, in the Riviera di Salò, territory of the Republic of Venice , and in the Upper Garda of the episcopal principality of Trento, killing, stealing and extorting anyone.

In a short time with his criminal enterprises Zanzanù became the terror of the population and the concern of the Veneto supervisors.

 

Repubblica di Venezia – Bandiera

Above: Flag of the Republic of Venice (697 – 1797)

 

The first news of Beatrice dates back to 24 March 1602, when in Bogliaco, during a military parade of the “cernide“, the Venetian popular militia, of which he was a part, wounded by stabbing – with the complicity of his uncle Giovanni Francesco Beatrice called “Lima” – Francesco Sette of Maderno, the son of Riccobono, a bitter rival of his family and killed a friend of the Seven who had intervened in defense.

The two fugitive assassins were subsequently banished from all the territories of the Serenissima, but despite this they enjoyed high protection as guests of Giovanni Gaudenzio Madruzzo, captain of the Rocca of Riva del Garda and related to the prince bishop of Trento, Carlo Gaudenzio Madruzzo.

 

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Above: Bogliaco

 

This first and convulsive period was marked by the killing of his father Giovan Maria, which took place in 1605 by some of his enemies.

A period that he would remember for the rest of his life:

The father of I, Giovanni Zannoni of the Riviera of Salò, the ordinary son of those who descend to the lake, and from whom he derived the food of all his poor family, while he lived quietly, founded a solemn peace with a signed oath, over the sacrament of the altar, was wickedly slain by someone of the Riviera.

For this so inhumane and barbarous act, being sure of the cruelty of men, induced by desperation, I resolved to avenge such a serious offense and to secure my own life, having taken the path of arms, I avenged with the deaths of the enemy the loss of the father and the privation of the way of supporting my family, for which operations I was banished and persecution continued, I  responded with new vendettas.

 

The whole affair, which had as its decisive and ruthless protagonist the young Zanzanù, is in fact understandable only in the light of a harsh conflict in the years 1602 – 1605 between the Beatrice di Gargnano and the Sette families of Monte Maderno.

A conflict that most likely originated from a rivalry, for reasons of honor, between the sons of Giovan Maria Beatrice and those of Riccobon Sette, a wealthy landowner of Vigole in Monte Maderno.

However the wounding of Francesco Sette by Giovanni Beatrice did not constitute itself as the triggering element of the struggle without quarter which in the following years would see the two families facing each other.

 

In 1603 both Riccobon and Francesco Sette suffered the repercussions carried out by the administrator of Salò and the Venetian magistrates against their respective son and brother Giacomo.

For the protection and aid granted to Giacomo, Riccobon Sette ended up in prison in Salò, while his brother Francesco was in turn forced to leave the State.

 

Above: Salò

 

The situation precipitated at the beginning of the spring of 1603, when Giacomo Sette was killed in Armo on 14 April by his accomplice, Eliseo Baruffaldo di Val Vestino, who took his head to Salò for the ritual recognition.

These were perhaps the events that led Riccobon Sette to restore peace with the Beatrice of Gargnano.

The peace act was stipulated in August 1603 in the monastery of San Francesco di Gargnano, by Fra Tiziano Degli Antoni, a common friend of both parties.

The Beatrice were represented by Giovan Maria himself, while the archpriest of Gargnano, Bernardino Bardelli, brother-in-law of Riccobon Sette, was engaged for the opposing faction.

Riccobon Sette, in fact, was still in prison, while his son Francesco was banished.

However, the killing of the latter by some bounty hunters precipitated the situation.

 

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Above: Monastery of San Francesco di Gargnano

 

On 16 June 1604 Riccobon Sette, still in prison in Salò , addressed the representatives of the Magnifica Patria, lamenting the loss of his two children and the difficult situation in which he found himself.

Upon leaving prison the opposition between the two families was rekindled.

The murder of Giovan Maria Beatrice by assassins sent by the archpriest of Gargnano pushed the conflict to extremes.

 

In the years 1605 – 1607 Beatrice in fact carried out several coups against his adversaries and enemies, always managing to escape the numerous ambushes by the bounty hunters on his trail.

It was not so for two of his companions, Eliseo Baruffaldo and Giovan Pietro Sette. known as Pellizzaro, who in November 1606 were killed by some bounty hunters and some enemies of the Beatrice whom the Provveditore General in the Mainland, in all secrecy, had sent on their trail.

The two were killed on 11 November 1606 in a night ambush stretched over the mountains of Gargnano, and their severed heads displayed in the square of Salò.

 

The spiral of violence that followed the feud between the two families helped to define the image of Zanzanù, especially starting from the years 1608 -09, when he was now unable to defend himself by resorting to the ordinary ways of justice.

He was thus credited with many crimes of which he was certainly not responsible (such as robberies and thefts).

 

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He remembered, in 1616 in a plea directed to the Council of Ten:

“I confess to being guilty of many notices, but all for private crimes and none for the slightest of public and state affairs, nor with conditions excluded from the present I am not even entitled to compensate anyone, but let me be quite right in saying that, since many excesses have been committed by others under my name, of those who are out of hope of being able to free me, I have never cared to get rid of them.”

 

On 13 February 1609 in Tremosine, Zanzanù attacked, robbed and injured the doctor Oliviero, killed Gabriele Leonesio and stole an arquebus in a house.

Escaping to Limone sul Garda, on the night of February 13, he fell in an ambush at the port of Riva del Garda, where the band led by his uncle Giovanni Francesco “Lima” was targeted by the bandit Alessandro Remer of Malcesine who intended to claim the bounty.

Giovanni Beatrice was saved by jumping into the lake and swimming, while his brother Michele Zanon, Bernardo and Giovanni Battista Pace, known as “Parolotto“, of Salò were killed.

Giovanni Francesco “Lima“, although wounded in the thigh, managed to take refuge in Limone sul Garda, where he was, the next day, shot and then barbarously beheaded.

 

Limone sul Garda

Above: Limone sul Garda

 

The most striking action of Giovanni Beatrice took place on 29 May 1610, when he was involved, according to the accusations of the Venetian magistracy, in the murder in the Cathedral of Salò of the Brescia magistrate Bernardino Ganassoni, podestà of the place, who was attending the solemn mass in honor of Saint Herculaneum.

The murder was carried out by Antonio Bonfadino who shot point-blank, and despite the presence of the escort soldiers he managed to escape.

 

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Above: Salò Cathedral

 

In the following days Beatrice tried to approach the Brescian representatives who came to Salò during the process.

To them the bandit reported that, in exchange for a pardon, he would reveal the main culprits of the killing of Ganassoni.

 

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Giovanni Beatrice’s involvement in the murder of the podestà Bernardino Ganassoni was in reality the work of the convergence of interests of administrator Giovan Battista Loredan, merchant Alberghino Alberghini and inquisitor Oltre Mincio Leonardo Mocenigo.

Loredan was worried that the motives that led to the murder of the podestà would emerge, so the involvement of the feared bandit would in fact make the procedural position of Martin Previdale and the other defendants definitively unrecoverable with him and with the same mayor.

The merchant Alberghino Alberghini, present in Salò in early June 1610 , together with the band of bounty hunters led by Alessandro Remer, pursued the same goal, aiming in turn to involve the two brothers Bonifacio and Ambrogio Ceruti.

 

Arriving on the Riviera in the first days of October 1610, Leonardo Mocenigo promptly endorsed the work of Loredan condemning to the scaffold one of the false witnesses involved in the trial.

 

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Among the mountain shelters, in the cave called “Cùel Zanzanù“, in the locality of Martelletto, near Droane, in Val Vestino, they killed and plundered, according to the report by administrator Lunardo Valier of 15 April 1606 and sent to the Senate of Venice, on 29 September 1611, the wealthy Stefano Protasio of Toscolano with ten accomplices.

 

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Despite the harsh repression carried out by Antonio Mocenigo, captain of Brescia, against banditry prevailing in the Riviera of Salò, through executions, the confiscation of property and banning from the Serenissima, Beatrice continued undaunted in his criminal exploits.

Between 1602 and 1609 the band “Zanoni” robbed the “cavallari” (travellers on the public road), assaulted boats on Lake Garda laden with goods, tyrannized the rural population, robbed the “mountains of mercy” of Manerba del Garda and Portese taking away 6,000 scudi and killed, according to estimates by bandit Alessandro Remer of Malcesine, about 200 people.

 

Above: Manerba del Garda

 

Hunted by the administrator Giovanni Barbaro, Zanzanù contacted the duchy of Parma, offering himself as a mercenary for Ranuccio I Farnese with the rank of lieutenant of infantry, then moved to the Cremonese until 1614 .

Returning to the Riviera in 1615, Zanzanù resumed his criminal activities.

 

Flag of Parma

Above: Duchy of Parma flag (1545 – 1731)

 

On 24 June 1615 the administrator and Captain of Salò, Marco Barbarigo, informed the Senate that Zanzanù was sheltered in Val Vestino, the jurisdiction of the lords of Lodrone, with two priests of that valley who he had made his prisoners.

 

On 27 June, in the municipality of Capovalle, the Beatrice gang clashed with a department of cappelletti.

After furious gunplay they wounded the governor’s lieutenant Vucocrutt.

 

Capovalle – Veduta

Above: Capovalle

 

The repressive activity carried out against Beatrice in this period is attested by the sentences pronounced by, the Provveditore and Capitano of the Riviera, Marco Barbarigo, in June and July 1615.

The administrator turned to the numerous supporters of the bandit, who did not disdain to help him and to host him, despite the severe penalties, threatening them on several occasions.

In particular, two women of Gargnano were condemned who, regardless of the grave consequences, were banished because, as the sentence said, they were “so bold and fearless as to leave their homes and rejoice with said Zanone, touching their hands and making them different welcome.”

 

The following year, Beatrice proposed the payment of a substantial sum of ducats to the municipalities of Tremosine and Maderno in exchange for his enlistment in the service of the Republic of Venice engaged in the Gradisca war against Austria.

The community of Gargnano, in June 1616, presented a petition from Beatrice to have it forwarded to the Heads of the Council of Ten.

In it the famous bandit, seizing the opportunity of the ongoing war with the Archdukes, offered himself, together with some of his companions, “to come and serve where your Serenity will appeal to me .

Even if the proposal was not accepted it however reveals the desire of the feared bandit to return to the places where he had lived serenely his youth.

 

Diachronic map of the Republic and the Venetian Empire.

Above: Greatest extent of the Venetian Empire

 

On 17 August 1617, following the attempted kidnapping of the wealthy Giovanni Cavalieri di Tignale, Zanzanù was chased by armed youths from the village to the Valle del Gianech, and after a furious gunfight that caused four deaths among the bandits and six among the Tignalese, Beatrice fell at last.

His body was taken to Salò on the 19th.

Hanging from the gallows his body was exposed to the public until consummation, while the head was delivered to the authorities in Brescia.

 

Above: Brescia Castle

 

A large part of the adult population of the six villages that made up the Tignale community took part in the battle.

Among the five who fell during the bloody battle there were also some of the older and wealthy men of the community, who were more motivated to settle accounts with the famous outlaw.

Zanzanù was almost certainly killed by Antonio Bertolaso ​​of Aer who, along with Maderno’s cousin Girolamo Gasperini and the group of soldiers who accompanied them, joined the bandits who were attempting their last escape.

Zanzanù and his two companions, survivors of the previous clashes, faced with the arrival of Gargnano’s men, had in fact been forced to retreat and find a last and improvised refuge in the valley of the Monible.

 

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In reality the provincial of Salò was not satisfied.

Suspicious of the number of deaths among the six villages that made up the Tignale community, he ordered an investigation to see if there had been any complicity or aid from some sectors of the local population towards the killed bandit.

Even if this suspicion was not ascertained, the investigation reveals the inherent mistrust of the authorities towards the obvious support and aid that a small part of the most humble people of the Riviera del Garda had for some time offered to Beatrice.

 

The controversial and legendary figure of Giovanni Beatrice is still remembered today by the people of the area of Alto Garda and Val Vestino.

Here, in fact, children born out of wedlock are still called fiöi del Zanzanù (sons of Zanzanù).

If some people have no hesitation in pointing it out the terrible bandit was the author of many murders and heinous actions, others believe that his figure enjoyed a certain sympathy and consensus among the people.

The latter believe that it was not the common people who hunted the brigand, but were instigated or hired by those lords (nobles, landowners, wealthy merchants) against whom Zanzanù was raging.

 

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Pietro Bellotti (1625–1700) was an Italian painter active in the Baroque period.

 

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Above: Self portrait of Pietro Bellotti

 

Born in Volciano di Salò in 1625, he gained fame as a painter of portraits and heads of characters.

He worked for Cardinal Mazzarino, Cardinal Ottoboni (the future Pope Alexander VIII), the Elector of Bavaria and others.

He was patronized by Pope Alexander VIII and by the Duke of Uceda.

In Mantova he was “superintendent of the city and villa galleries” for Gorizaga.

After wandering from court to court he returned to Lake Garda and died in poverty in Gargnano in 1700.

His principal works are:

  • La Parca Lachesi (1654) at the Museum of Stuttgart
  • The Parcae Lachesis, private collection, Brescia
  • Self-Portrait (1658) at the Uffizi Gallery, where he is depicted with a cup in his hand and a scroll with the inscription: “Hinc Hilaritas
  • Two Peasants’ Heads at the Pinacoteca di Bologna;
  • Philosopher in the Pinacoteca di Feltre;
  • Old Head at the Correr Museum;
  • Medea at the Accademia dei Concordi in Rovigo;
  • Maiden with a Turban in the Braunschweig Museum

 

Above: The Old Pilgrim, Pietro Bellotti

 

Enrica Bianchi Colombatto is an Italian actress, usually known by her stagename of Erika Blanc.

Her most notable role was as the first fictional character Emmanuelle in Io, Emmanuelle (A Man for Emmanuelle)(1969).

 

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Blanc starred in several cult European horror films, including:

  • The Third Eye (Il Terzo Occhio)(1966)
  • Kill, Baby, Kill (Operazione Paura)(1966)

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  • So Sweet… So Perverse (Cosi’ Dolce… Cosi’ Perversa)(1969)
  • The Night Evelyn Came Out of the Grave (La Notte Che Evelyn Usci’ Dalla Tomba)(1971)
  • The Devil’s Nightmare (La terrificante notte del demonico)(1971)

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  • The Red Headed Corpse (La rossa dalla pelle che scotta)(1972)

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  • Mark of the Devil, Part II (1973).

Her other film credits include roles in:

  • Django Shoots First (Django spara per primo)(1966)
  • Target Goldseven (Tecnica di una spia)(1966)
  • Blood at Sundown (La più grande capina del West)(1966)
  • Halleluja for Django (1967)
  • The Longest Hunt (Spara, Gringo, spara)(1968)
  • Seven Times Seven (7 volte 7)(1968)
  • Hell in Normandy (Brigada suicida)(1968)
  • Long Arm of the Godfather (La mano lunga del padrino)(1972)

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  • Tony Arzenta (1973)

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  • The Stranger and the Gunfighter (La dove non batte il sole)(1974)
  • Il domestico (The Domestic)(1974)
  • I figli di nessuno (Nobody’s Children)(1974)
  • Eye of the Cat (Attenti al buffone)(1976)
  • La portiera nuda (The Naked Doorwoman)(1976)
  • Dream of a Summer Night (Sogno di una notte d’estate)(1983)

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She recently returned to films with small but intense roles under the direction of Turkish-born director Ferzan Özpetek, acting as Antonia’s mother in Le fate ignoranti (The Ignorant Fairies)(2001) and as the sensitive, alcohol-addicted Maria Clara in Cuore Sacro (Sacred Heart)(2005).

In 2003 she starred as the grandmother in Adored (Poco più di un anno), directed by Marco Filiberti.

 

In 1943 Gargnano hosted Mussolini who arrived there on 10 October, where he occupied, in the San Giacomo area, Villa Feltrinelli (now a luxury hotel).

The Duce, who had recently established the Italian Social Republic, lived in the villa with his wife, Donna Rachele, and children Romano and Anna Maria.

 

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Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

 

Diodato “Uto” Ughi is an Italian violinist and conductor.

He is considered one of Italy’s greatest living violinists and is also active in the promotion of classical music in today’s culture.

When he was young he started to play the violin and he made his debut at 7 years old, at the Teatro Lirico di Milano.

At 12 years he was considered a mature artist.

Ughi involves himself in many activities to promote music culture.

He is the founder of several music festivals, namely “Omaggio a Venezia“, “Omaggio a Roma” and “Uto Ughi per Roma“.

In tandem with Bruno Tosi, Uto Ughi instituted the musical prize “Una vita per la Musica“. (“A life for music“)

On 4 September 1997, Ughi was commissioned Cavaliere della Gran Croce by the Italian President and in 2002 he received a degree honoris causa in Communication studies.

He has won various awards, the most prestigious “Una vita per la musica – Leonard Bernstein” (23/6/1997), “Galileo 2000” prize (5/7/2003) and the international prize “Ostia Mare” (8/8/2003).

 

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Above: Uto Ughi

 

Oscar Alberto Ghiglia (born 13 August 1938) is an Italian classical guitarist.

Born in Livorno to an artistic family – his father and grandfather were both famed painters, his mother an accomplished pianist – Oscar Ghiglia had to choose between a path strewn with brushes and colours and a world cut into harmony and melody.

Though his early choice produced a few hundred water colours and a number of oil paintings, he soon realized music was his way.

For this decision he thanks his father, who one day made him pose for a painting showing a guitarist.

For this he had to hold his father’s guitar, a companion to his artistic musings in front of his forming works.

This painting was the start to a lifetime of disciplined dedication to music.

Oscar Ghiglia graduated from the Santa Cecilia Conservatory in Rome and soon began study with Andrés Segovia, who was his major influence and inspiration during his formative years.

Later Oscar Ghiglia “inherited” Segovia’s class in Siena’s Accademia Chigiana and spread his own teaching around the five continents in a sister vocation to his concerts.

Oscar Ghiglia founded the Guitar Department at the Aspen Music Festival, as well as the Festival de Musique des Arcs and the “Incontri Chitarristici di Gargnano“, was artist in residence or visiting professor in such centres as the Cincinnati and San Francisco conservatories, the Juilliard School, the Hartt School and Northwestern University in Evanston, Illinois.

In all these centres and elsewhere Ghiglia has been nurturing talents and forming or perfecting young artists’ musical outlook and interpretation.

He has been teaching at the Accademia Musicale Chigiana since 1976.

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Besides touring as a solo performer, Oscar Ghiglia has played and recorded with such names as:

  • Victoria de Los Angeles
  • Jan de Gaetani
  • Gerald English
  • John McCollum
  • Jean-Pierre Rampal
  • Julius Baker
  • the Juilliard String Quartet
  • the Emerson String Quartet
  • the Cleveland String Quartet
  • the Quartetto d’archi di Venezia
  • the Tokyo String Quartet
  • Giuliano Carmignola
  • Franco Gulli
  • Salvatore Accardo
  • Régis Pasquier
  • Adam Krzeszowiec
  • Albert Roman
  • Laszlo Varga
  • Eliot Fisk
  • Shin-Ichi Fukuda
  • Letizia Guerra
  • Antigoni Goni
  • Elena Papandreou.

Oscar Ghiglia was a founding member of the International Classic Guitar Quartet.

After his CD Manuel Ponce Guitar music, a new set of recording projects was under way and his teaching continued, year long, in Basel, where he held the professorship in guitar at the Musik-Akademie der Stadt Basel from 1983 to 2004.

Founder of the International Guitar Competition of Gargnano, Ghiglia boasts a very high number of first prize winners among his students, in competitions around the world.

In 2006, after retiring from the Basel Musik-Akademie, he moved to Greece, following his marriage to colleague and former pupil Elena Papandreou, now guitar professor in the University of Makedonia in Thessaloniki.

 

Above: Basel Music Academy

 

Following his CD  J.S. Bach Lute Works, and a DVD of his favourite repertoire, he continued giving concerts across the oceans, has residencies at the universities of Cincinnati and Evanston, Illinois, and does as well summer teaching at the Accademia Chigiana of Siena and his “Incontri Chitarristici di Gargnano“.

 

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Certainly Gargnano as home to a bandit, a painter, an actress, a dictator and two world-class musicians is extremely interesting.

But it was the presence of a famous English writer in Gargnano that left me feeling frustrated at our failing to stop there in our haste to reach Riva del Garda before nightfall.

For there is much in his story that fascinates me, much that I can relate to.

 

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Above: Gargnano

 

When someone visits a place for a day and decides to stay for six months you know they must have discovered something quite special.

 

It was 1912 and David Herbert (D.H.) Lawrence (1885 – 1930) was having an affair with Frieda von Richthofen (1879 – 1956), the wife of his university professor.

 

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Above: D. H. Lawrence

 

Wanting to escape from both her husband and the turmoil of the Industrial Revolution in full swing in England, the pair decided to set off on their travels to discover new people, cultures and a more relaxing lifestyle.

Their first destination was Frieda’s homeland of Germany, but soon they wanted to travel further south, so, after a short stay in the Tyrol, they set off, with their knapsacks on their backs, on a long trek over the Dolomites, via Bolzano and Trento.

 

 

By September 1912 they reached the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Riva del Garda.

Like so many authors, Lawrence fell in love with the Lake and the endless inspiration it could provide a creative mind, but Riva proved too expensive for them to set up a permanent residence.

 

Above: Riva del Garda

 

On Wednesday 18 September 1912, David and Frieda left Villa Leonardi di Riva del Garda and decided to go on a boat trip to the smaller town of Gargnano and heard by chance about a flat that was available to rent within their budget.

It became their home from 18 September 1912 until 30 March 1913.

 

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Above: David and Frieda

 

Even though a century has passed since Lawrence and Frieda arrived in Gargnano, little has changed in the town, apart from a few essential roads now winding their way through the centre and more houses popping up to extend the town’s boundaries.

Gargnano has essentially escaped the tourist trappings of many of the Lake’s most popular locations, and so it is still possible to walk around the area and follow Lawrence’s footsteps to recreate a few of his experiences.

Lawrence and Frieda’s Lake Garda flat was located on the second floor of a large yellow-painted building at via Colletta 44 called Villa Igea, which now wears a discreet white marble plaque revealing its most famous resident.

 

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Above: Villa Igea, Villa, Gargnano

 

VILLA IGEA

DIMORA DI D.H. LAWRENCE

DAL SETTEMBRE 1912 ALL’ APRILE 1913

 

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No explanation of Lawrence’s identity is given.

 

Situated in San Gaudenzio di Muslone (known today as simply Villa), a small village on the outskirts of Gargnano, the rent was cheap but the flat still benefited from stunning views of the Lake.

The house became, for the two lovers, a refuge from which to observe the daily life of the country, the changes of nature with the arrival of spring, the spectacular scenery and local traditions.

Lawrence transcribed all of his impressions of this long exploration in numerous letters sent to England to family, friends, fellow writers and editors.

Lawrence often commented on how he would lie in bed of a morning and watch the sun rise over the mountains, eventually filling the room with light.

To him, this was paradise.

 

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Gargnano was an escape from the culture of money and machinery that he so deeply detested, and the people of Gargnano the keepers of an ancient and impassive world that remains unruffled by and resistant to the upheaval of tumultuous modernity.

Lawrence used the most beautiful and fascinating words to capture daily moments and images of a landscape and nature that managed to soothe the pains of the young writer.

 

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Though not everything Lawrence wrote was so pleasant:

When at night the moon shines full on this pale facade, the theatre is far outdone in staginess.

Now everything is theatrical.

 

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Like living on a set where everything demanded literary criticism.

 

He wrote that the theatrical performances that he witnessed in Castellani Hall did not leave a very positive impression and he did not write an overly complimentary account of the teacher Feltrelline from whom they received lessons in French, German and Italian.

 

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The sunshine and climate were actually the main motivations for Lawrence and Frieda to stay on Lake Garda.

Lawrence was suffering from tuberculosis and the sun was thought to offer a vital source of energy to help battle the disease.

 

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But it provided him with inspiration too, and far from being a holiday or time for convalescence, Lawrence wrote many of his best works while staying in Villa Igea.

He finished Sons and Lovers, started work on The Lost Girl which would later be called The Rainbow and The Sisters which became Women In Love, plus penned his first travel book Twilight In Italy.

 

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(Catherine Brown attended the 13th International D.H. Lawrence Conference held in Gargnano in 2014:

One evening we saw a performance, by local actors (plus John Worthen) of The Fight for Barbara.

Written by Lawrence during his stay in Gargnano, this play thought through the difficulties and possibilities (including disastrous ones) of his elopement with Frieda.

Yet the play is of questionable comprehensibility to Italians.

The husband threatens Barbara with his own suicide.

An Italian husband of Lawrence’s period would have killed her or her lover, or abducted her, or at least threatened some such thing.

Certainly not talked about suicide.

Barbara’s father reminds the lover that married women are out of bounds.

An Italian man of Lawrence’s period would have seen a married woman as a particular prize, and certainly not have lectured another man to the contrary.”)

 

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It was not an easy time for the two young lovers.

They lived in a precarious position, with Lawrence trying to support them both with his writing, hoping not to be forced to look for a job as a teacher, a profession he hated.

Frieda lived with the hope of seeing her children as soon as possible, having left them to escape with Lawrence, pending the conclusion of her divorce from her husband Ernest Weekley.

 

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Above: Frieda and D.H.

 

It is in Twilight In Italy that we discover most about Lawrence’s time on Lake Garda, as he takes us with him on his day-to-day encounters with the locals and explores his surroundings.

One such encounter involved visiting his landlord, who he refers to as the padrone.

The padrone lived in a grand house called Villa De Paoli set just behind Lawrence’s flat.

It has now been transformed into offices and a car park, but next to the building you will find a garden shaded by beautiful olive trees and featuring a pergola under which Lawrence liked to sit and watch the daily comings and goings of the boats on the Lake.

 

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It was in the grounds of Villa De Paoli that Lawrence had his first experience of Lake Garda’s iconic lemon houses.

Unlike anything he had ever seen before, in Twilight in Italy he described them as looking like naked pillars, rising out of the green foliage like ruins of temples.

While the fruit was growing and the sun shining on the leaves Lawrence thought the houses were beautiful, but as soon as winter arrived he regarded them as sordid and ugly because of the big wooden shutters that were put up to protect the trees from the inclement weather.

Before he knew the purpose of the wooden greenhouses he was confused by the sight of men climbing up ladders and leaping from one small ledge to the next, in order to lay the large wooden panels across the pillars and hammering loudly as they did so.

Having just left behind an industrial England, it was also odd for him to see everything being done by hand.

Despite hating the machines, Lawrence saw the Italian way of doing things as backwards, as if they were living in the past.

 

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Today the only sign of Villa De Paoli’s lemon house is the presence of a few pillars hidden behind the car park.

A sad reminder of a once majestic past.

As you walk along the main road from Villa to Gargnano you will however come across La Molora, a private lemon house that the owner is working hard to restore to its prime.

Here you can see for yourself the imposing pillars and lemon trees working their way up the hill, in the way that Lawrence was so intrigued and perplexed.

 

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From his flat, Lawrence could see a church set on a slight hill overlooking the village, that he often glanced at but never thought to visit.

One day when he heard the gentle ringing of the church bells he decided to try and find out more about it.

There was no obvious path to the church, so Lawrence went out the back door of his house and made his way through the narrow side streets,  unsure of quite where he was going.

It was while walking these side streets of Villa that Lawrence felt the most alien and alone during his time on Lake Garda.

 

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Above: San Tommaso, Villa, Gargnano

 

In Twilight in Italy he describes how odd it was walking through the narrow passageways, which were dark and shady compared to the brightly-lit paths by the lakeside.

He could see the town’s inhabitants staring at him suspiciously through their windows, wondering who this stranger was.

Gargnano wasn’t often visited by tourists and so Lawrence felt that his pale skin shone out even more here, and feared that it turned him into something of a spectacle.

 

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Lawrence writes about the church and cloister of San Francesco on via Roma in Gargnano.

He put the simple Romanesque church of San Francesco (built in 1289) in the category of churches of the dove, which he defined as “shy and hidden“.

They nestle among trees or they are gathered into silence of their own, in the very midst of the town so that one passes them by without observing them.”

He says of San Francisco:

I passed it several times in the dark, silent little square, without knowing it was a church.

(The road has since been widened so the square is no longer discernible.)

 

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Lawrence was captivated by the cloister, which became a citrus fruit warehouse at the end of the 19th century, with “its beautiful and original carvings of leaves and fruits upon the pillars“.

 

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After several unsuccessful attempts to reach the San Tomasso church, Lawrence eventually discovered a long broken stairway that led him to the courtyard of San Tommaso, or one of the churches of the eagles – which “stand high, with their heads to the skies, as if they challenged the world below” –  which still provides access to the building today.

 

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He “came out suddenly, as by a miracle, clean on the platform of my San Tommaso, in the tremendous sunshine.

It was another world, a world of fierce abstraction.

The thin old church standing above the light, as if perched on the house roofs.

Its thin grey neck was held up stiffly.

Beyond was a vision of dark foliage and high hillside.

 

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When you reach the summit you will be greeted by a similar sight as Lawrence’s.

Countless red-slated roofs spread out beneath you, giving way to the seemingly never-ending water of the lake.

It’s hardly surprising that Lawrence described this platform as suspended above the village like the lowest step of heaven or Jacob’s ladder.

The terrace of San Tommaso is let down from heaven and does not touch the Earth.

 

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Everywhere Lawrence went in Villa and Gargnano seemed to provide him with the new experiences and inspiration he had been searching for when he first embarked on his travels.

San Tommaso certainly found a special place in his heart.

 

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As you wander the streets of Villa and Gargnano,  stopping briefly at the pretty little harbour where Lawrence first arrived in the town and passing by the theatre which remains as it would have looked to Lawrence on the outside, you can see why he chose to stay here so long.

Italy and Lake Garda are familiar destinations for us today, but for Lawrence there was still so much to explore and understand, so much that was alien and intimidating and yet at the same time captivating and exciting.

He couldn’t help but be drawn to the unique character of the town, the intriguing local people and the beauty of the lake itself.

 

 

The Hotel Gardenia al Lago is a hotel in Villa, a romantic little village administered by Gargnano, the largest and most distinctive municipality on the “lemon Riviera”.

It stands, proud and elegant, with its Mitteleuropean architecture, right on the shores of Lake Garda, with the mountain peaks of the Parco Alto Garda Bresciano nature reserve as its backdrop.

The waters of the Lake lap the edges of the magnificent garden and surround the panoramic lookout point in the dining room, and on the opposite shore stands the majestic Monte Baldo mountain range, which generously lays on the most unforgettable displays of light and colour at both sunrise and sunset.

Hotel Gardenia al Lago has a particular charm and aura, not due to the opulence and richness of its décor, but to its harmonious setting, the elegance of its rooms, furnished with pieces from the old house dating back to 1925, and to the warm welcome given by the Arosio family, who have owned and run the hotel personally for three generations.

 

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Inside the Hotel, on the 4th floor, guests will find an exhibition dedicated to Lawrence, organized in 2012 by the Historic Gargnano Committee, on the centennial of the writer’s residence.

Through the descriptive panels and photographs, you can trace the life of the writer, famous for having written Lady Chatterley’s Lover and Sons and Lovers.

 

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I longed to visit Villa.

I longed to relax in a waterfront café by the port of Gargnano.

 

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I wished to wander around the abandoned olive factory, the lakefront villas with their boathouses, the Palazzo Comunale with the two cannonballs wedged in the walls from the aforementioned naval bombings.

 

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I longed to stroll along the road which leads out of Gargnano from the harbour for 3 km past the beach and through olive and lemon groves, past the Villa Feltrinelli – the grand lakeside house / world-class hotel with tastefully furnished rooms (€1,380 per night) where Mussolini once ruled….

 

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To the tiny 11th century Chapel of San Giacomo di Calino.

I wanted to look, on the side facing the lake, under the portico where fishermen keep their equipment, at the 13th century fresco of St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers.

 

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But we were not travellers.

 

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We were tourists, and tourists by their very nature value the destination far more than the journey.

We do not linger in Toscolano-Maderno.

We do not stroll through Gargnano.

We do not detour down the road to Lake Idro through the hills of Valvestino.

 

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We are on a mission.

We will not procrastinate.

We do not see the green of olive trees or the blue of the sky and the Lake.

 

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I love my wife, so practical and pragmatic.

A better wife than I will ever deserve.

 

 

But a quiet voice within me weeps.

It longs to one day find a place and on that day spontaneously decide to linger there for six months or for a lifetime.

 

I say nothing as we zoom past Toscolano-Maderno.

I am silent as we speed past Gargnano.

 

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My mind’s eye sees sailboats afloat on turquoise waters, orchards of olives and groves of lemons, huge stone walls and tall pillars, testaments of memory.

 

 

The Buddha is rumoured to have said that the greatest folly of men is that we believe that we have more time to live than we are actually granted.

 

 

Nonetheless I find myself thinking about retracing the routes followed and described in Lawrence’s Twilight in Italy.

To walk from Innsbruck to Riva del Garda or from Schaffhausen to Milan, time and money be damned….

That would be amazing.

 

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But as the years zoom by at breathtaking speed I find myself entering a state of obscurity, of ambiguity, a general decline.

 

It is twilight when we reach Riva.

 

The soft gleaming glow of the sky is light clinging to a descending sun disappearing below the horizon, a semi-darkness, the gloom of a dying day.

So much to see, so much to do, so little time before night falls.

 

Such is twilight in Italy.

And everywhere else.

 

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Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Sally Fitzgerald, “D.H. Lawrence’s Lake Garda”, http://www.travelandlife.com / http://www.lakefrontboutiquehotels.com / http://www.gargnanosulgarda.com  / Gaby Logan, “Gargnano Celebrates D.H. Lawrence Centennial“, http://www.italymagazine.com / D.H. Lawrence, Twilight in Italy

 

Canada Slim and the City at the Crossroads

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Saturday 6 July 2019

In previous posts in both my blogs I have written about the quiet majesty and remarkable beauty of the French region known as Alsace.

 

Location of Alsace

 

As evidenced by the post you are reading, I continue to wax poetically about this region, simply because I find myself consistently drawn to exploring it every opportunity I have, even though I no longer live as close to the French border as I once did in the days when I lived in Freiburg im Briesgau, in southwestern Germany’s Black Forest, with my wife.

The easiest, and perhaps inevitable, introduction to Alsace is to first begin your explorations with the departmental capital, Strasbourg, for it is here that not only does the explorer develop a sense of what it means to be Alsatian, French and European, but as well it is here where the visitor finds a sense of what it means to be human, for better and for worse.

This particular travel description will differ from others in that I will not be prefacing it with datelines as I usually have done with other places I have visited, because I have visited Strasbourg on so many occasions that my actual moments stand out less significantly than the overall impression that the city has given me.

This city is one of those places where each visitor must discover and claim Strasbourg as their own in their own personal way.

I have visited Strasbourg on my own without any financial resources.

I have visited Strasbourg alone, with friends, and with my wife, flush with funding.

Each experience was entirely unique and original in itself.

I doubt there will ever be a time when I will ever say that I know Strasbourg, for Strasbourg is like the nearby Rhine….

You can never step into it the same way twice, for that what was of yesterday is a world alien to that of today and what will be tomorrow is unimaginable today.

 

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Strasbourg is situated at the eastern border of France with Germany.

This border is formed by the Rhine, which also forms the eastern border of the modern city, facing across the river to the German town Kehl.

The historic core of Strasbourg however lies on the Grande Île in the river Ill, which here flows parallel to, and roughly 4 kilometres (2.5 miles) from, the Rhine.

The natural courses of the two rivers eventually join some distance downstream of Strasbourg, although several artificial waterways now connect them within the city.

 

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Above: Gare de Strasbourg (rail station)

 

The city lies in the Upper Rhine Plain, at between 132 metres (433 ft) and 151 metres (495 ft) above sea level, with the upland areas of the Vosges Mountains some 20 km (12 mi) to the west and the Black Forest 25 km (16 mi) to the east.

This section of the Rhine valley is a major axis of north–south travel, with river traffic on the Rhine itself, and major roads and railways paralleling it on both banks.

 

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Above: Notre Dame Cathedral, Strasbourg

 

The city is some 397 kilometres (247 mi) east of Paris.

The mouth of the Rhine lies approximately 450 kilometres (280 mi) to the north, or 650 kilometres (400 mi) as the river flows, whilst the head of navigation in Basel, Switzerland, is some 100 kilometres (62 mi) to the south, or 150 kilometres (93 mi) by river.

 

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The city has warm, relatively sunny summers and cool, overcast winters.

Precipitation is elevated from mid-spring to the end of summer, but remains largely constant throughout the year, totaling 631.4 mm (24.9 in) annually.

On average, snow falls 30 days per year.

 

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Above: Palais Rohan, Strasbourg

 

The 2nd highest temperature ever recorded was 38.5 °C (101.3 °F) in August 2003, during the 2003 European heat wave.

This record was recently broken, on 30 June 2019, when it was registered 38.8 °C (101.8 °F).

The lowest temperature ever recorded was −23.4 °C (−10.1 °F) in December 1938.

 

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Strasbourg’s location in the Rhine valley, sheltered from the dominant winds by the Vosges and Black Forest mountains, results in poor natural ventilation, making Strasbourg one of the most atmospherically polluted cities of France.

Nonetheless, the progressive disappearance of heavy industry on both banks of the Rhine, as well as effective measures of traffic regulation in and around the city have reduced air pollution.

 

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Above: Palais du Rhin, Strasbourg

 

Strasbourg is the capital and largest city of the Grand Est region of France and is the official seat of the European Parliament.

Located at the border with Germany in the historic region of Alsace, it is the capital of the Bas-Rhin department.

Strasbourg is the 9th largest metro area in France and home to 13% of the Grand Est region’s inhabitants.

 

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Strasbourg is the seat of over twenty international institutions, most famously of the Council of Europe and of the European Parliament, of which it is the official seat.

Strasbourg is considered the legislative and democratic capital of the European Union, while Brussels is considered the executive and administrative capital and Luxembourg the judiciary and financial capital.

 

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Strasbourg is the seat of the following organisations, among others:

  • Central Commission for Navigation on the Rhine (since 1920)
  • Council of Europe, with all the bodies and organisations affiliated to this institution (since 1949)
  • European Parliament (since 1952)
  • European Ombudsman
  • Eurocorps headquarters,
  • Franco-German television channel Arte
  • European Science Foundation
  • International Institute of Human Rights
  • Human Frontier Science Program
  • International Commission on Civil Status
  • Assembly of European Regions
  • Centre for European Studies (French: Centre d’études européennes de Strasbourg)
  • Sakharov Prize

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Above: Hemisphere, European Parliament, Strasbourg

 

It is the second city in France in terms of international congress and symposia, after Paris.

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Success did not come at the head of a city that had passed almost without transition from a quiet regional capital to a European city.

It has not frantically thrown itself into the hands of promoters for a 21st century concrete facelift, even if its new status as a metropolis in a wider region is now pushing it to develop new neighborhoods, along the Rhine or at the gates of the old city.

It is no coincidence that its historic center, a real big island restored to life by a well-studied traffic plan, from which the car was largely driven out, was the first urban center in France in to be listed by UNESCO as World Heritage.

The former imperial German district Neustadt is also UNESCO-honoured since July 2017.

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Strasbourg is immersed in Franco-German culture and although violently disputed throughout history, has been a cultural bridge between France and Germany for centuries, especially through the University of Strasbourg, currently the second largest in France, and the co-existence of Catholic and Protestant culture.

It is also home to the largest Islamic place of worship in France, the Strasbourg Grand Mosque.

 

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Above: Strasbourg Grand Mosque

 

But do not believe, discovering the impressive number of monuments and neighborhoods waiting for your visit, that it is a city frozen in history that welcomes you.

Strasbourg, which has managed to put at its head women of character as well as skilled men, sailing skillfully between right and left, is a city that has also demonstrated its industrial and commercial dynamism.

Strasbourg proved that it knew how to win:

  • The TGV Est Europe is there, putting Paris at 1h50 from the Alsatian capital
  • The tram has reorganized the entire city center and brought some places to life:

All old Strasbourg is largely pedestrian now, and cyclists reign there as masters.

In short, in addition to its rich architectural heritage, you will discover a city with exceptional quality of life, which has found a rare commodity: silence and singing birds!

And if the sacrosanct winstubs, believed to be eternal, have disappeared for the most part after the retirement of those who made their reputation (they have kept their name but have become tourist restaurants essentially), tea rooms, terraces, trendy places, and even today’s trendy winstubs are opening up neighborhoods that have not been seen before.

 

 

Economically, Strasbourg is an important centre of manufacturing and engineering, as well as a hub of road, rail, and river transportation.

The port of Strasbourg is the 2nd largest on the Rhine after Duisburg in Germany, and the 4th largest river port in France after Nantes, Rouen and Bordeaux.

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Above: The port of Strasbourg

 

Yet despite all of this, Strasbourg rarely receives the admiration and attention that greater-sized metropolises do, especially in popular culture.

 

Musically, Strasbourg is a sidenote.

 

Several compositions have specifically been dedicated to Strasbourg Cathedral by church componists Franz Xaver Richter, Ignaz Pleyel and John Tavener.

 

Above: Notre Dame Cathedral, Strasbourg

 

Strasbourg pie, a dish containing foie gras, is mentioned in the finale of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical Cats.

 

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On their 1974 album Hamburger Concerto, Dutch progressive band Focus included a track called “La Cathédrale de Strasbourg“, which included chimes from a cathedral bell.

 

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British punk band The Rakes had a minor hit in 2005 with their song “Strasbourg”, featuring witty lyrics with themes of espionage and vodka and a cleverly inserted count of “eins, zwei, drei, vier” even though Strasbourg’s spoken language is French.

 

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Havergal Brian’s Symphony #7 was inspired by passages in Goethe’s memoirs recalling his time at Strasbourg University.

Brian’s work ends with an orchestral bell sounding the note E, the strike note of the bell of Strasbourg Cathedral.

 

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Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart called his 3rd Violin Concerto (1775) the Straßburger Konzert because one of its most prominent motives, is based on a Strasbourg minuet dance that had already appeared as a tune in a symphony by Carl Ditters von Dittersdorf.

 

Above: Carl Ditters von Dittersdorf (1739 – 1799)

 

In literature, Strasbourg is a footnote.

 

A sole chapter, albeit a long one, of Laurence Sterne’s 1767 novel Tristram Shandy, “Slawkenbergius’ Tale” takes place in Strasbourg.

 

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Above: Laurence Sterne (1713 – 1768)

 

(Hafen Slawkenbergius is a fictional writer referenced in Laurence Sterne’s novel Tristram Shandy.

Slawkenbergius was “distinguished by the length of his nose, and a great authority on the subject of noses“.

Sterne gives few biographical details relating to Slawkenbergius, but states that he was German and that he had died over 90 years prior to the writing and publication (in 1761) of the books of Tristram Shandy in which he appears — i.e., circa 1670, although Slawkenbergius’ tale includes a reference to the French annexation of Strasbourg in 1681.

Slawkenbergius is primarily known for his scholarly writings in Neo-Latin, particularly his lengthy monograph De Nasis (“On Noses“), purporting to explain different types of noses and their corresponding significance to human character.

The second book of De Nasis is said to be filled with a large number of short stories illustrative of Slawkenbergius’ characterizations of noses.

Only one of these stories is reproduced in Tristram Shandy.

Slawkenbergius is first referred to in Volume III, Chapter XXXV.

Volume IV opens with the relatively lengthy “Slawkenbergius’s Tale.”

This tale recounts the journey of a courteous gentleman, Diego, who was endowed with a massive nose.

Diego attempts to pass inconspicuously through Strasbourg on his way from the “Promontory of Noses“, but the sight of his giant nose sends the Strassburgers, especially the nuns, into a restless frenzy.

The tale relays the results of the upset in Strassburg and the travels of Diego to his admirer Julia.)

 

 

A solitary episode of Matthew Gregory Lewis’ 1796 novel The Monk takes place in the forests that once surrounded Strasbourg.

 

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(Baptiste is a robber living outside of Strasbourg.

He lets travellers stay in his house so that he may rob and murder them.

His two sons by a previous wife, Jacques and Robert, assist him to this end.

He then forced Marguerite to marry him.

Marguerite, however, is disgusted by his life of crime.

Marguerite is first introduced as a short and unwilling hostess and wife of Baptiste.

Her first husband dies after receiving wounds from an English traveller.

The group of banditti do not trust Marguerite to keep their secret and she becomes the property of Baptiste.

She has two sons, Theodore and a younger unnamed boy.

She saves Don Raymond’s life by revealing Baptiste’s true intentions through mysterious bloody sheets and significant glances.

She stabs and kills Baptiste as Don Raymond tries to strangle him, allowing them both to escape.

Don Raymond is the son of the Marquis and is also known as Alphonso d’Alvarada.

He takes the name Alphonso when his friend, the Duke of Villa Hermosa, advises him that taking a new name will allow him to be known for his merits rather than his rank.

He travels to Paris, but finds the Parisians “frivolous, unfeeling and insincereand sets out for Germany.

Near Strasbourg he is forced to seek accommodations in a cottage after his chaise supposedly breaks down.

He is the target of the robber Baptiste but with help from Marguerite, he is able to save himself and the Baroness Lindenberg.

Grateful, the Baroness invites Don Raymond to stay with her and her husband at their castle in Bavaria.)

 

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Above: The Monk (2011 French film)

 

Sadly, these are books rarely read today by our generation of techno tots.

 

In film, Strasbourg is merely backdrop.

 

The opening scences of the 1977 Ridley Scott film The Duellists take place in Strasbourg in 1800.

 

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(Fervent Bonapartist and obsessive duellist Lieutenant Gabriel Feraud (Harvey Keitel) of the French 7th Hussars, nearly kills the nephew of the city’s mayor in a sword duel.

Under pressure from the mayor, Brigadier-General Treillard (Robert Stephens) sends a member of his staff, Lieutenant Armand d’Hubert (Keith Carradine) of the 3rd Hussars, to put Feraud under house arrest.

As the arrest takes place in the house of Madame de Lionne (Jenny Runacre), a prominent local lady, Feraud takes it as a personal insult from d’Hubert.

Matters are made worse when Feraud asks d’Hubert if he would “let them spit on Napoleon” and d’Hubert doesn’t immediately reply.

Upon reaching his quarters, Feraud challenges d’Hubert to a duel.

The duel is inconclusive.

d’Hubert slashes Feraud’s forearm but is unable to finish him off, because he is attacked by Feraud’s mistress.

As a result of his part in the duel, d’Hubert is dismissed from the General’s staff and returned to active duty with his unit.

The war interrupts the men’s quarrel and they do not meet again until six months later in Augsburg in 1801.)

 

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The 2007 Spanish film In the City of Sylvia is set in Strasbourg.

 

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(In the City of Sylvia (Spanish: En la Ciudad de Sylvia) is a 2007 film directed by José Luis Guerín.

The film follows a young man credited only as ‘Él‘ (English:’Him‘) as he wanders central Strasbourg in search of Sylvia, a woman he asked for directions in a bar six years earlier.

 

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Guerín, born in Barcelona, is a prolific and original documentary filmmaker who has made only a handful of fiction features, averaging one per decade.

He is often characterized as “inquisitive”, is never seen without a flat cap tucked over his forehead, and is fascinated with silent film, meta-fictional conceits, journals, and the relationship between person, place, and memory.

 

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Sylvia may represent a real person from Guerín’s past (like his experimental companion piece, Some Photos In The City Of Sylvia) or she could be someone he made up, a purely rhetorical figure.

She is the girl with the white parasol remembered by Bernstein in Citizen Kane, a movie that’s all about the way fleeting moments stick like splinters in memory.

(“Rosebud”)

 

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Or she is Madeleine, Vertigo’s woman that never was.

 

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José Luis Guerín’s 2007 film In The City Of Sylvia doesn’t have much plot beyond what’s implied in the title.

An unnamed young man (French actor Xavier Lafitte) is visiting Strasbourg, a picturesque city just off the border between France and Germany.

He remembers a woman named Sylvia or Sylvie, whom he met very briefly at a bar called Les Aviateurs while visiting Strasbourg six years earlier.

She drew him a map on a beer coaster.

Perhaps he hopes to run into her again.

The movie is broken up into chapters (identified as “1st night“, “2nd night” and so on), which presumably correspond to the length of the young man’s stay in Strasbourg, during which he doesn’t appear to do anything except look, draw, and – in a series of scenes that takes up a third of the film – follow a woman that he may think is Sylvia or Sylvie.

It’s something of a masterpiece, filled with beguiling intangibles and apparent contradictions.

Part of what makes the film so elemental is the way it uses elementary techniques, be it close-ups, reverse angles or natural light.

There is nothing fancy about it, but, as is often the case, the simplest steps lead to the most sophisticated results, building to the crescendo of the final sequence, in which glimpses of strangers at a Strasbourg tram stop – alone or in groups – suggest a world of mystery, possibility and unacknowledged beauty.

Guérin romanticizes looking, by taking something completely mundane and, by breaking it down on film, makes it seem extraordinary.)

 

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The opening scene of the 2011 movie Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows covers an assassination bombing inside Strasbourg Cathedral.

 

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(“The year was 1891.

Storm clouds were brewing over Europe.

France and Germany were at each other’s throats, the result of a series of bombings.

Some said it was nationalists, others the anarchists, but as usual my friend Sherlock Holmes had a different theory altogether.

Strasbourg bombing.  Read all about it.  Anarchists suspected in Strasbourg bombing.”)

 

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Before the 5th century, the city was known as the Roman camp of Argantorati, first mentioned in 12 BC.

That Gaulish name is a compound of -rati, the Gaulish word for fortified enclosures, and arganto(n)-  the Gaulish word for silver, but also any precious metal, particularly gold, suggesting either a fortified enclosure located by a river gold mining site, or hoarding gold mined in the nearby rivers.

 

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After the 5th century, the city became known by a completely different name Gallicized as Strasbourg (Lower Alsatian: Strossburi; German: Straßburg).

That name is of Germanic origin and means “town at the crossing of roads“.

Gregory of Tours was the first to mention the name change:

In the 10th book of his History of the Franks, written shortly after 590, he said that Egidius, Bishop of Reims, accused of plotting against King Childebert II of Austrasia in favor of his uncle King Chilperic I of Neustria, was tried by a synod of Austrasian bishops in Metz in November 590, found guilty and removed from the priesthood, then taken “ad Argentoratensem urbem, quam nunc Strateburgum vocant” (“to the city of Argentoratum, which they now call Strateburgus“), where he was exiled.

 

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Above: Statue of Gregory of Tours (538 – 594), Louvre Museum, Paris

 

Strasbourg celebrated its 2,000th anniversary in 1988.

 

Between 362 and 1262, Strasbourg was governed by the bishops of Strasbourg.

Their rule was reinforced in 873 and then more in 982.

In 1262, the citizens violently rebelled against the bishop’s rule (Battle of Hausbergen) and Strasbourg became a free imperial city.

 

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Above: Battle of Hausbergen, 8 March 1262

 

It became a French city in 1681, after the conquest of Alsace by the armies of Louis XIV.

 

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Above: King Louis XIV of France (1638 – 1715)

 

(Marguerite LePaistour was born in 1720 in Cancale.

Hated by her stepmother, she rebels against her family, runs away, and to go unnoticed, dresses as a man.

Under the name of Henri, she became a servant, soldier, and executioner in Strasbourg and Lyon.

Unmasked, she ends up behind bars, gets married on leaving prison.

And everything returns to normal!)

 

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In 1871, after the Franco-Prussian War, the city became German again, until 1918 (end of World War I), when it reverted to France.

After the defeat of France in 1940 (World War II), Strasbourg came under German control again.

Since the end of 1944, it is again a French city.

In 2016, Strasbourg was promoted from capital of Alsace to capital of Grand Est.

 

 

Strasbourg played an important part in Protestant Reformation, but also in other aspects of Christianity, such as German mysticism, Pietism, and Reverence for Life.

Delegates from the city took part in the Protestation at Speyer.

 

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Above: Martin Luther’s Ninety-five Theses that sparked the Reformation

 

It was also one of the first centres of the printing industry.

 

 

(Johannes Gutenberg, fleeing Mainz for political reasons, took refuge in Strasbourg and there developed his brilliant invention, but in developing the printing press, he went bankrupt.

And yet it was the most important invention of the time.

It must be said that Bibles of 1,200 pages were complex to manufacture and complicated to sell.

And yet, today, they are worth more than $30 million each!

He must be spinning in his grave.)

 

Above: Place Gutenberg, Strasbourg

 

Among the darkest periods in the city’s long history were the years 1349 (Strasbourg massacre), 1793 (Reign of Terror), 1870 (Siege of Strasbourg) and the years 1940–1944 with the Nazi occupation (atrocities such as the Jewish skeleton collection) and the British and American bombing raids.

 

Above: The Strasbourg Massacre

 

The Strasbourg massacre occurred on 14 February 1349, when several hundred Jews were publicly burnt to death, and the rest of them expelled from the city as part of the Black Death persecutions.

It was one of the first and worst pogroms in pre-modern history.

 

 

The Reign of Terror, or The Terror (French: la Terreur), refers to a period during the French Revolution after the First French Republic was established.

Several historians consider the “reign of terror” to have begun in 1793, placing the starting date at either 5 September, June or March (birth of the Revolutionary Tribunal), while some consider it to have begun in September 1792 (September Massacres), or even July 1789 (when the first lynchings took place), but there is a consensus that it ended with the fall of Maximilien Robespierre in July 1794.

Between June 1793 and the end of July 1794, there were 16,594 official death sentences in France, of which 2,639 were in Paris.

 

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Above: Siege of Strasbourg (14 August to 28 September 1870), Franco-Prussian War

 

(During the siege of Strasbourg in 1870, the Prussian authorities allowed the wounded to communicate with their family, provided that the writings were readable by censorship, therefore without envelope.

Thus, no military secret could be disclosed.

The postcard was born.)

 

Above: Bombardment of Notre Dame, Siege of Strasbourg

 

Above: Plaque in memorium of the 86 victims of the Jewish Skeleton Collection, Université de Strasbourg

 

Some other notable dates were the years 357 (Battle of Argentoratum), 842 (Oaths of Strasbourg), 1538 (establishment of the university), 1605 (world’s first newspaper), 1792 (La Marseillaise), and 1889 (the discovery of the pancreatic origin of diabetes).

 

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Above: The Oaths of Strasbourg

 

Above: The world’s first newspaper, Relation aller Fürnemmen und gedenkwürdigen Historien (Account of all distinguished and commendable news), published by Johann Carolus (1575 – 1634), Strasbourg

 

Above: Rouget de Lisle sings “La Marseillaise” for the first time at the home of Strasbourg Mayor Philippe-Frédéric de Dietrich, 25 April 1792

 

(It is said that Rouget de Lisle imagined the national anthem in a single night in Strasbourg.

Not so complicated, when we see strange similarities with “Esther“, an oratorio of a certain Grisons, composer in Saint Omer.

Note for note.

To listen on the Internet is edifying.

It must be said that Rouget de Lisle was captain of the garrison at Saint Omer.

Well, well.

No wonder he composed “La Marseillaise” in one night!)

 

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Above: Marseillaise volunteers, Arc de Triomphe, Paris

 


Strasbourg was also the home of a bizarre epidemic, the Dancing Plague of 1518, where hundreds of citizens danced for several days, some even dying of exhaustion.

 

Above: The Dancing Plague of 1518

 

The dancing plague (or dance epidemic) of 1518 was a case of dancing mania that occurred in Strasbourg in July 1518.

Around 400 people took to dancing for days without rest and, over the period of about one month, some of those affected collapsed or even died of heart attack, stroke, or exhaustion.

 

Strasbourg has been the seat of European institutions since 1949: first of the International Commission on Civil Status and of the Council of Europe, later of the European Parliament, of the European Science Foundation, of Eurocorps, and others as well.

 

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Those are the facts.

They speak little of beguiling intangibles and apparent contradictions.

They do not offer glimpses of this strange world of mystery, possibility and unacknowledged beauty.

They offer no romance and no hint of the extraordinary connection between people, places and memories.

 

City with many faces – the often strained phrase really hits the spot here.

In the center of the Alsatian capital, the majestic Gothic cathedral towers like a memorial of permanence in the sky, surrounded by medieval romantic slices, and not far away, ultramodern glass palaces testify to the spirit of the 21st century.

In the vibrant economic center with a cozy Winstub flair – a bit of a metropolis, a bit of a small town – enjoyable Alsatian ways of life complement well with cosmopolitan European government institutions and German neatness with French esprit.

If you walk through the streets of the old town, it seems hard to imagine that in the Greater Strasbourg area live about 470,000 people.

 

 

In addition, there are numerous guests, such as the MEPs, who come to town once a month, like locusts, and disappear just as quickly after a week.

During the parliamentary sessions, many hotels are fully booked, taxis are constantly on the move, and there is hardly any free space in the better restaurants.

The presence of these institutions, rich with well-off elected officials and their collaborators who are not less, represents a sacred manna for the city.

In some sectors, real estate prices rival those of the beautiful Parisian or Nicois neighborhoods.

The economic difficulties that the new Europe is experiencing daily have brought the city to more humility in recent years.

Even if it is more than difficult to stay here during the parliamentary sessions (it is then necessary to push up to Kochersberg), one can find accommodation at reasonable prices, especially if one knows how to play specials at certain periods.

 

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Above: Logo of the European Parliament

 

As a long-term guest one can designate the overwhelming majority of nearly 50,000 students enrolled at the various colleges of the city.

In the cafés and pubs they prefer, there is the typical atmosphere of a university town.

 

 

Important guests for Strasbourg are, of course, the tourists who visit the city in large numbers – far more than four million a year.

To seduce a public who, more and more numerous, come here for a weekend in love or a few days with family, Strasbourg has no shortage of assets, winter and summer, by the way.

From traditional markets to the ever-popular Christmas market through the Musica festival, Strasbourg knows how to charm you.

And they are offered something truly extraordinary:

The picturesque Old Town island enclosed by the Ill, a unique district of Wilhelmine monumental buildings, the European Mile, a large number of important museums, just to name a few worth mentioning.

All sights are comparatively close to each other and are within walking distance.

In addition, there are some other ways of exploring the city by boat, a ticket, even by taxi or – very sporty – by bike.

And of course you can take a pleasant break: romantic on the banks of the Ill, in beautiful squares, in lively street cafes, quaint Winstubs or fine gourmet restaurants.

They are places of rest welcome between two visits of museums or churches, a walk on the quays or in the parks.

Strasbourg can be visited, it will never be said enough, first on foot, nose in the air, at one’s own pace.

Even in the evening, there is no boredom.

Various theaters, the opera, bars full of variety, music bars and discos provide entertainment.

 

 

Strasbourg also includes tens of thousands of people from the former French colonies in Africa.

Only a few of them are guests, most of them now own a French passport, their descendants have already been born in Strasbourg.

The visitor will usually encounter only a few of them as dealers near the tourist attractions.

Most live in run-down suburban neighborhoods, e.g. in Neuhof or in Elsau, where the social problems have led to more violence for years – this too is one of the many facets of the Alsatian capital.

 

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Strasbourg is a unique destination filled with special eccentricities.

Take the Cathedral for example.

Unique in France, the building became Protestant in 1529, and was so until 1681, when Louis XIV took Strasbourg.

Even today, ecumenical services are held regularly in the Saint-Laurent Chapel (entrance, left side).

On this occasion, Protestants and Catholics pray together.

 

Above: Rose window, Notre Dame Cathedral, Strasbourg

 

There is so much to see and do in Strasbourg that one blogpost will not suffice.

Among the variety are:

  • Strasbourg Cathedral
  • Notre Dame Museum
  • Pharmacie du Cerf
  • Kammerzell House
  • Place du Marché aux Cochons de Lait
  • Chateau Rohan
  • Museum of Decorative Arts
  • Archaeological Museum
  • Place de l’Homme de Fer
  • Place Kléber
  • Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
  • Place Gutenberg
  • St. Thomas Church
  • Petite France
  • Rhine Palace
  • St. Paul’s Church
  • The Council of Europe
  • Human Rights Building
  • Palais de l’Europe
  • Parliamentary Assembly
  • Museum of Fine Arts
  • Museum of Engraving and Drawing
  • Tomi Ungerer International Centre of Illustration
  • Le Vaisseau Science and Technology Centre
  • The Rhine Navigation Museum
  • The Strasbourg Bar Association Museum
  • The Zoological Museum
  • The Gypsothéque / Adolf Michaelis Museum
  • Museum of Seismology and Magnetism
  • Pasteur Museum of Medical Curiosities
  • Mineralogy Museum
  • Egyptology Museum
  • The Star Crypt
  • The Museum of Chocolate Secrets
  • The Pixel Museum

 

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Above: Strasbourg Observatory

 

Europe’s Crossroads lies at the very heart of western Europe, closer to Frankfurt, Zürich and Milan than it is to Paris.

Strasbourg is the seat of internationally renowned institutions of music and drama.

 

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It also has a long history of excellence in higher education at the crossroads of French and German intellectual traditions.

The University has attracted eminent students such as Goethe, Metternich and Montgelas.

Its people have been awarded 19 Nobel prizes, thus making Strasbourg University the most eminent French university outside Paris.

The Université de Strasbourg includes:

  • The IEP (Institut d’études politiques de Strasbourg), the University of Strasbourg’s political science & international studies center.
  • The EMS (École de management Strasbourg), the University of Strasbourg’s Business School.
  • The INSA (Institut national des sciences appliquées), the University of Strasbourg’s Engineering School.
  • The ENA (École nationale d’administration). ENA trains most of the nation’s high-ranking civil servants. The relocation to Strasbourg was meant to give a European vocation to the school and to implement the French government’s “décentralisation” plan.
  • The ESAD (École supérieure des arts décoratifs) is an art school of European reputation.
  • The ISEG Group (Institut supérieur européen de gestion group).
  • The ISU (International Space University) is located in the south of Strasbourg (Illkirch-Graffenstaden).
  • The ECPM (École européenne de chimie, polymères et matériaux).
  • The EPITA (École pour l’informatique et les techniques avancées).
  • The EPITECH (École pour l’informatique et les nouvelles technologies).
  • The INET (Institut national des études territoriales).
  • The IIEF (Institut international d’études françaises).
  • The ENGEES (École nationale du génie de l’eau et de l’environnement de Strasbourg).
  • The CUEJ (Centre universitaire d’enseignement du journalisme).
  • TÉLÉCOM Physique Strasbourg,(École nationale supérieure de physique de Strasbourg), Institute of Technology, located in the south of Strasbourg (Illkirch-Graffenstaden).

 

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The Bibliothèque nationale et universitaire (BNU) is, with its collection of more than 3,000,000 titles, the 2nd largest library in France after the Bibliothèque nationale de France.

It was founded by the German administration after the complete destruction of the previous municipal library in 1871 and holds the unique status of being simultaneously both a student and a national library.

 

Above: The BNU, Strasbourg

 

The municipal library Bibliothèque municipale de Strasbourg (BMS) administrates a network of ten medium-sized librairies in different areas of the town.

A six stories high “Grande bibliothèque“, the Médiathèque André Malraux, was inaugurated on 19 September 2008 and is considered the largest in Eastern France.

 

 

As one of the earliest centers of book-printing in Europe, Strasbourg for a long time held a large number of incunabula – documents printed before 1500 – in its library as one of its most precious heritages.

After the total destruction of this institution in 1870, however, a new collection had to be reassembled from scratch.

 

Above: The Nuremburg Chronicle incunabula, 1493

 

Today, Strasbourg’s different public and institutional libraries again display a sizable total number of incunabula, distributed as follows:

  • Bibliothèque nationale et universitaire
  • Médiathèque de la ville et de la communauté urbaine de Strasbourg
  • Bibliothèque du Grand Séminaire
  • Médiathèque protestante
  • Bibliothèque alsatique du Crédit Mutuel
There is a great longing within me to have you, gentle readers, discover this city for yourselves.
I want you to feel as I have felt and understand as I have understood why Strasbourg once experienced compels a person to want to return.
There are places to explore and tales to be told.
We shall return…..
Sources: 
- Wikipedia
- Google
- The Rough Guide to France 
- Antje and Gunther Schwab, Elsass 
- Le Routard Alsace (Grand-Est) 
- Marie-Christine Périllon, Alsace 
- Michèle-Caroline Heck, The Golden Book of Alsace 
- Patrick Schwertz, Alsace: 100 lieux pour les curieux
- Ignatiy Vishevetsky, "An overlooked masterpiece about looking", The AV Club, 22 March 2016